PWS Atch 1 Guide for Uniform Fitting and Alterations.docx
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- Alteration and Fitting Services Federal contract opportunity
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- FA301620R0028
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FA301620R0028
FITTING AND ALTERATION
ATTACHMENT 1
APPENDIX 9
GUIDE FOR UNIFORM FITTING AND ALTERATIONS
29 March 2020
INTRODUCTION
1. This guide is written with one basic thought in mind: “provide basic written guidance for anyone who issues, fits, alters, or inspects Air Force Male and Female Uniform Clothing," it does not replace AFI 36-2903.
2. When trainees/prior service personnel are issued articles of uniform clothing, they are given a garment from stock (tariff size) that is their best size. Due to the number of potential manufacturers of the tariff size garments, the first garment that trainee/prior service personnel try on may not always be the best fit. A satisfactory fit, with few or no alterations, may often be found by trying on another garment from the same-labeled size or trying on the next size (up or down) garment.
3. The proper fit of any uniform cannot be made with the subject standing in a rigid position (e.g., the Position of Attention). Therefore, the individual should stand erect, but not stiff, the feet slightly apart and the arms and hands hanging naturally.
4. It is imperative that alterations be limited to those that are necessary to obtain the desired appearance.
5. The alterations tolerances listed in this fitting guide are only for applying acceptable appearance standards of the uniform. There is no relationship between these tolerances, and those that are permissible in the manufacture of the uniform clothing.
MEN’S LIGHT BLUE LONG SLEEVE SHIRT
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS
| Collar: The collar will fit | Collar: Collar of shirt shows | |
| smoothly around the neck with | ¼ or ½ inch above coat collar. |
sufficient size to allow the insert and free movement of the index finger along the neck when buttoned.
Shoulders: Shoulder seams fitted Shoulders: NOT COVERED to reach a point to the outer edge of the shoulder joint (plus or minus ½”).
| Body and Body Length: The shirt | Body and Body Length: |
| should fit comfortably on the body for | NOT COVERED |
ease of movement and be long enough to tuck in the trousers.
| Sleeve Length: With arms hanging | Sleeve Length: with arms |
| naturally, cuff of the shirt sleeve will | hanging naturally, sleeves will |
| rest on the heel of the thumb when | extend to the heel of the thumb. |
buttoned. Sleeves of the shirt will not be exposed when wearing service coat.
In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must appear even when worn.
MEN’S LIGHT BLUE SHORT SLEEVE SHIRT
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
SHORT SLEEVE SHIRTS SHORT SLEEVE SHIRTS
| Collar: The shirt will be fitted | Collar: Collar of shirt shows |
| with the collar unbuttoned. No | ¼ or ½ inch above coat collar. requirements for collar fit, because |
shirt will be worn without a tie
Shoulders: The shoulder seams fitted Shoulders: NOT COVERED to reach a point to the outer edge of the shoulder joint (plus or minus ½”).
| Body and Body Length: The shirt | Body and Body Length: |
| should fit comfortably on the body for | NOT COVERED |
ease of movement and be long enough to tuck in the trousers.
| Sleeve Length: With arms bent | Sleeve Length: With arms | |
| at 90 degrees, the shirt sleeve | bent at a 90 degree angle. Sleeves | |
| bottom shall not be higher than | should barely touch or come within | |
| 1” above the natural crease at the | 1” of the forearm. |
inside of the arm at the elbow.
TROUSERS (MALE)
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
TROUSERS TROUSERS
| Fitting: Without belt. | Fitting: Trim fitted with no | |
| bunching at waist or bagging at seat. |
Waist: Fit comfortably around Waist: No bunching at the waist.
the waist, but loose enough to allow the fitter or inspector to place four fingers inside the back of the waistband and move them from side to side without strain on the fabric. Trousers will be loose enough around hips and buttocks to preclude gapping of the pockets.
Seat: No bagging at seat. Fitted Seat: No bagging at seat proportionately to height to ensure sufficient amount of material to form the hem.
| Length: Place the trouser on the | Length: Bottom front of the | ||
| waist where the top of the waistband is | trouser legs will rest on front of | ||
| even with the top of the trainee's hip bone. | shoes with a slight break in the | ||
| Trousers will be marked and altered so the | crease. Back of the trouser legs | ||
| bottom of the trousers hem will rest on | will be approximately 7/8” longer | ||
| the front of the shoes between the first | than the front. |
two bottom eyelets with a slight break.
When viewed from the back, the trouser hem will be no longer than the shoe welt nor shorter than 1/2" above the welt.
The trouser legs will have no more than 1/8" variance between their respective lengths, but must in any case appear even when worn If the hem does not meet this requirement, the performance is deemed unacceptable.
TROUSERS (MALE)
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
| Break: The break when pinched | Break: Front of trouser legs rest | |
| shall not exceed 3/4" total material | on the front of the shoe or boot with | |
| when measured. If there is no break | a slight break in the crease. |
in the trouser legs, the trousers will not be acceptable.
MEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
Service Dress Coat- Dark Blue Service Dress Coat- Dark Blue
| Fitting: Fitted over light blue | Fitting: The coat will not be form | |
| long sleeves shirt and will not be form | fitting. |
fitting. Shirt collar must show ¼ to ½ inch above the service coat collar.
| Appearance: Ease in shoulder, | Appearance: Ease in shoulder, | |
| chest, and underarms. | chest, and underarms. |
Shoulder: Seams fitted to the Shoulder: Ease in shoulders.
extremities of top of the shoulders.
| Chest: Should have approximately | Chest: Ease in chest and | |
| 1 ½” – 2” pull at the chest with a | underarms. |
long sleeve shirt on.
| Waist: Should fit without tightness | Waist: will not be suppressed at | |
| or wrinkles with a 4 to 5 inch ease (2 or 2 ½ | waist. |
inch ease on each side).
| Sleeve Length: With arms hanging | Sleeve Length: With arms hanging | |
| naturally the sleeves will end at the heel | naturally the sleeves will end at | |
| of the thumb, but not to exceed 1" beyond | approximately ¼” from the heel of | |
| the heel of the thumb. Long sleeved shirt | the thumb. |
sleeves will not be exposed. After alterations are complete, variances between sleeve length must not exceed 1/4" when worn.
| Body Length: With arms hanging | Body Length: The bottom of the coat | |
| naturally, the bottom of the coat should | should be fingertip length when hand | |
| rest between the thumb knuckle and | are slightly cupped. |
end of the thumb in most cases.
MEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
Service Dress Coat- Dark Blue Service Dress Coat- Dark Blue
| Front/Rear View of Service Coat: | Front/Rear View of Service Coat: | |
| The front of the coat will overlap, as well | NOT COVERED. |
as the back vent. The coat will fit smoothly over seat and should not have protruding vents in front or back. Bottom of the coat will be even. The row of buttons will be straight from top to bottom when buttoned.
MEN’S ALL WEATHER COAT (OUTER GARMENT)
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
| ALL WEATHER COAT with liner. | ALL WEATHER COAT | |
| with liner. |
Fitting: Fitted over the service Fitting: Coat will be fitted over dress coat. service dress coat.
| Shoulders: Loose enough to | Shoulders: Should fit loose | |
| accommodate the shoulders without | enough to accommodate shoulder of | |
| binding at armholes when arms are | service coat without binding at | |
| moving or rendering a salute. | armholes when arms are moved. |
| Sleeve Length: Must cover | Sleeve Length: Sleeves will | |
| service coat sleeves, but not more | extend ½” beyond the service coat | |
| than 1/2" beyond the service | sleeves. |
coat sleeves. In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must be even when worn.
| Body Length: Knee length | Body Length: Coat is knee length, | |
| not to exceed 6" below the back | not to exceed 6” below knee. |
crease of the knee.
WOMEN’S LIGHT BLUE SHORT SLEEVE BLOUSE
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
BLOUSE BLOUSE
Fitting: Blouse will be fitted comfortably, hanging free of the waist, Fitting: NOT COVERED with a slight curve
Shoulders: Shoulder seams fitted Shoulders: NOT COVERED to extremities of top of the shoulder (plus or minus ½”).
| Body and Body Length: Long | Body and Body Length: Long | |
| enough to prevent a gap between | enough to prevent a gap between | |
| blouse and skirt, or slacks, when | blouse and skirt, or slacks. | |
| rendering a salute. If blouse is visible | Bottom of the blouse is not visible | |
| below the bottom of the service coat, | below the bottom of service dress | |
| pullover sweater or lightweight blue | coat, pullover sweater or lightweight | |
| jacket, blouse must be tucked inside | blue jacket. |
service skirt or slack.
| Sleeve Length: Alterations may | Sleeve Length: Sleeves should | |||
| be performed on female short sleeve | barely touch or come within 1 inch | |||
| blouses. | Of the forearm with arms bent at a | |||
| 90-degree angle. |
WOMEN’S LIGHT BLUE LONG SLEEVE BLOUSE
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
BLOUSE BLOUSE
Fitting: Blouse will be fitted comfortably, hanging freely at the waist Fitting: NOT COVERED
Shoulders: Shoulder seams fitted Shoulders: NOT COVERED to the edge of the shoulders (plus or minus ½”).
| Body and Body Length: Hanging | Body and Body Length: | |
| freely on the waist with only a slight | Bottom of the blouse is not visible | |
| inward curve and be long enough to | below the bottom of service dress | |
| tuck in so that, when rendering a salute, | coat, pullover sweater or lightweight | |
| shirt will not come out of the slacks or skirt. | blue jacket. |
| Sleeve Length: With arms hanging | Sleeve Length: Bottom of |
| naturally, cuff of the blouse sleeve must | sleeve extends to the heel of the |
| rest on the heel of the thumb when | thumb. |
buttoned. Blouse sleeves will not be exposed when wearing the service coat.
In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must appear even when worn.
WOMEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
| Front /Rear view: The front of the | Front /Rear view: |
| Coat will overlap and the coat will fall | NOT COVERED |
smoothly over the hips, (one inch ease at each side) hang straight and be even at the bottom. The row of buttons will be straight from top to bottom when buttoned.
WOMEN’S ALL WEATHER COAT (OUTER GARMENT)
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
| All-weather coat with liner | All weather coat with liner | |
| (outer garment). | (outer garment). |
| Fitting: Coat is free falling | Fitting: Coat is free falling from | |
| from shoulders to hem. Fitted over the | shoulder to hem. Coat, fitted with | |
| blue coat with liner zipped inside with | liner, will be loose enough to give | |
| only top chest button buttoned. Must be | freedom of movement. |
loose enough to give freedom of movement when rendering a salute.
| Body Length: Must cover | Body Length: Length will be a | ||
| skirt. Maximum length is 6” | minimum of ½” longer than | ||
| below the back crease of the knee. | service skirt. Maximum length | ||
| is 6” below the back crease of the | |||
| knee. |
| Sleeve Length: Must cover | Sleeve Length: Sleeves will |
| service dress coat sleeves, but no | extend ½” beyond service dress |
| longer than 1/2" beyond service | coat sleeves. |
coat sleeves. In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must appear even when worn.
WOMEN’S SERVICE SKIRT
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
SKIRT . SKIRT
| Fitting: Skirt will hang naturally | Fitting: Skirt will hang naturally | |||
| over the hips, with a 1 inch ease at | over the hips. The 1620 skirt will | |||
| each side. | have a slight opening at front have | |||
| pleats. |
| Waist: Should fit snug but | Waist: No bunching at waist or | |
| comfortably. The waist band should | bagging at seat. |
be even with top of the hip bone.
| Body Length: Skirt length | Body Length: Skirt length will | |
| should be marked at the middle of | be no shorter than the top of the | |
| kneecap. It will not be shorter than | kneecap nor longer than the bottom | |
| the top of the kneecap, nor longer | of the kneecap. |
than the bottom of the kneecap. In all cases, after alterations are completed, the skirt hems must appear even when worn.
WOMEN’S 1620 SERVICE SLACKS
FITTING PROCEDURES AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS
SLACKS SLACKS
| Fitting: Slacks will fit | Fitting: Slack will fit naturally | ||
| naturally over the hips with no | over the hips with no bunching at the | ||
| bunching at the waist nor bagging | waist nor bagging in the seat. |
in seat. Pockets should not gap open or be under strain.
| Length: The slacks will be marked | Length: Bottom front of slack |
| and altered so the bottom of the slacks | legs rest on the front of the shoe or |
| hem will rest on the front of the shoes | boot with a slight break in the crease. |
with a slight break. When viewed from the back, the slack hem will be no longer than the shoe welt nor shorter than ½” above the welt. The slack legs will have no more than 1/8” variance between their respective lengths, but must in any case appear even when worn. If the hem does not meet this requirement, the performance is deemed unacceptable.
Break: The break when pinched Break: Slight Break.
Shall not exceed ¾” total material when measured. If there is no break in the slack legs, the slacks will not be acceptable.
ATTACHMENT 1
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