MIL-PRF-EFRCE_FINAL_12-13_with_DRAFT_Watermark.pdf

INCH-POUND

MIL-PRF-EFRCE

DECEMBER 2013

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

UNIFORM, ENHANCED FLAME RESISTANT COMBAT ENSEMBLE (EFRCE)

BLOUSE AND TROUSER

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the enhanced flame resistant combat ensemble (EFRCE), blouse and trouser. The uniform is used to provide flame resistance protection needed for wear in field and combat operations.

1.2 Classification

1.2.1 Cloth. The cloth shall be of the following types as specified (see 6.2).

Cloth, Type I - Woven, Woodland, Marine Corps Pattern (MARPAT) Camouflage Printed Cloth, Type II - Woven, Desert, MARPAT Camouflage Printed Cloth, Type III - Woven, Navy Working Uniform (NWU) II, Desert Digital Camouflage Printed Cloth, Type IV - Woven, NWU III, Woodland Digital Camouflage Printed Cloth, Type V - Knit, Coyote, Solid (All Uniform Types)

Comment, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Marine Corps Systems Command, Program Manager Marine – 113, Product Manager – Infantry Combat Equipment, Clothing Team, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

GOVERNMENT INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY AND TRADEMARK RIGHTS

NOTIFICATION:

This notice is to advise you that the Government possesses intellectual property/trademark rights in the following Marine Corps patterns and logos (hereafter collectively referred to as “intellectual property”): The Eagle, Globe and Anchor (EGA) logo, including the EGA logo as it appears embedded in the fabric pattern. The Government further has title to the invention disclosed and claimed in United States Design Patent No. D491,372 issued on 15 June 2004 for “Camouflage Pattern for Sheet Material and Uniforms.” The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above mentioned intellectual property. Therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property.

Doing so will be considered an infringement on the Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

1.2.2 Garment Classification. The blouse and trouser shall be of the following types and sizes as specified (see 6.2).

Class 1, Type I EFRCE Blouse and Trouser, Woodland MARPAT, with Durable Insect Protection

Class 1, Type II EFRCE Blouse and Trouser, Desert MARPAT, with Durable Insect Protection

Class 2, Type III EFRCE Blouse and Trouser, NWU II Desert Digital Camouflage Printed, with Durable Insect Protection

Class 2, Type IV EFRCE Blouse and Trouser, NWU III Woodland Digital Camouflage Printed, with Durable Insect Protection

1.2.2.1 Schedule of Sizes. The blouse and trousers shall be constructed in the following sizes (see 6.2)

SCHEDULE OF SIZES – BLOUSE

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XX-Short XX-Short

X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short Short Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long Long Long Long Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

SCHEDULE OF SIZES – TROUSERS

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large X-Short X-Short X-Short

Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long Long Long Long Long Long

X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4 and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Government specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD -4B Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FED-STD-595C Colors Used in Government Procurement

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55126 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-55195 Thread: Para-Aramid, Spun, Intermediate Modulus A-A-55217B Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

DPSCM 4155.3 Quality Systems Requirements MIL-DTL-44411 Insect Repellent, Permethrin MIL-W-5664D Webbing, Textile, Elastic

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/

Drawing Number Drawing Description Drawing Date

2-1-2525 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Coyote 476) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2526 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Green 474 with EGA symbol) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2527 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Black 477) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2528 Woodland MARPAT- 4 color (Khaki 475) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2529 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Light Tan 479) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2530 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Urban Tan 478) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2531 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Light Coyote 481 with EGA symbol) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2532 Desert MARPAT- 4 color (Highland 480) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2533 Woodland MARPAT- 3 color (Coyote 476) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2534 Woodland MARPAT- 3 color (Green 474) 12-Jul-2004 2-1-2535 Woodland MARPAT- 3 color (Khaki 476) 12-Jul-2004

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army Research, Development & Engineering Command, Natick Soldier Center, Natick, MA 01760)

Commercial US Governmentally Controlled Performance Specification Camouflage Print Performance Specification for AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II, and NWU III.

(Copies are available from Program Manager – Special Operations Forces (SOF) Survival, Support and Equipment Systems, Natick Soldier Center, Natick, MA 01760.)

CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS

Title 40, part 798.4500 (Primary Eye Irritation) Title 40, part 798.4100 (Dermal Sensitization) Title 40, part 798.4470 (Primary Dermal Irritation)

TEXTILE FIBER PRODUCTS IDENTIFICATION ACT

(Applications for copies should be addressed to U.S. Government Printing Office, Superintendent of Documents, Mail stop: SSOP, Washington, DC 20402-9328, or this reference may be found on the Internet at www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html.)

ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA):

FEDERAL INSECTICIDE, FUNGICIDE AND RODENTCIDE ACT (FIFRA)

FIFRA as amended by the Food Quality Protection Act of 1996 and the Pesticide Registration Improvement Act of 2003.

EPA Product Performance Test Guidelines OPPTS 810.370 Insect Repellents for Human Skin and Outdoor Premises http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.epa.gov or from the U.S.

Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402, telephone (202)-512-0132)

US DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (USDA)

Bite Protection Test Methodology, Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16.2 Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc AATCC 16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC 81 pH of the Water Extracted from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC 96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and

Knitted Fabrics Except Wool AATCC 100 Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

Evaluation Procedure 9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies should be obtained from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, PO Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM D76 Standard Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles ASTM D737 Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling

Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus ASTM D2256 Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the

Single-Strand Method ASTM D3511 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related

Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling Tester ASTM D3776 Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3787 Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles Constant

Rate of Travers (CRT) Ball Burst Test ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of

Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) http://www.epa.gov/

ASTM D6413 Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical Test)

ASTM E96 Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials ASTM F1930 Standard Test Method for Evaluation of Flame Resistant Clothing for Protection Against Fire Simulations Using an Instrumented Manikin

(Copies should be obtained from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959).

MISCELLANEOUS

NFPA 1971 Standard on Protective Ensembles for Structural Fire Fighting and Proximity Fire Fighting

(Copies should be obtained from Customer Sales/Member Services, custserv@nfpa.org, 1-800-

344-3555 or 1-617-770-3000).

ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies should be obtained from www.ansi.org or from the American National Standards Institute, 1819 L Street, 6th floor, Washington, DC.)

Principle and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor), 1989, pp 394-396.

(Applications for copies of referenced documents should be addressed to Raven Press, 1185 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036)

Marzulli, F. and H. Maibach, “Contact Allergy: Predictive Testing in Humans,” Advances in Modern Toxicology, Volume 4, pp 353-372, 1977.

(Applications for copies should be addressed to U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine, Attn: MCHB-DC-TTE, Bldg,. E-2100, Aberdeen Proving Grounds, MD 21010-5422.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified, (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3), in accordance with 4.2.

mailto:custserv@nfpa.org http://www.ansi.org/

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Material.

3.3.1 Basic material.

3.3.1.1 Basic material, woven. The base material for construction of the blouse sleeves/chest and trouser shall consist of a flame resistant cotton/nylon/meta-aramid twill cloth conforming to Milliken style ResQ II 6.7 oz/sq yd or equal (see 6.4). The weave shall be twill. Fabric shall be printed with the appropriate camouflage pattern (as specified in the solicitation), and conform to the requirements as specified Table 1.

TABLE I. Material Requirements for Cloth, Woven

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD

Weight, ounces per square yard 6.4 – 7.1 ASTM D3776 Fiber content See 3.3.1.1 AATCC 20A Weave See 3.3.1.1 Visual Breaking Strength, pounds (min), Initial (no laundering)

ASTM D5034

Dry Warp 165 Fill 150 Wet Warp 140 Fill 125 Breaking Strength, pounds (min), After 25 Laundering Cycles

ASTM D5034,

AATCC 135 1/

Dry Warp 150 Fill 150 Wet Warp 140 Fill 125 Tear Strength, pounds (min) Initial (no laundering) and after 25 Laundering Cycles

ASTM D1424,

Dry Warp 12 Fill 16 Wet Warp 12 Fill 16 Air Permeability, cfm (min) 20 ASTM D737 Colorfastness (min)

Laundering (after 4 cycles) 4-5 AATCC 61 Test 1A Light (40 hours or 170 kilojoules) 4 AATCC 16.2 Option 1 or AATCC

16.3 Option 2

Perspiration (acid and alkaline) 4-5 (color change) AATCC 15 4-5 (staining) Crocking 4 (dry) 3/ AATCC 8 3 (wet) 3/ Dimensional Stability, Commercial Laundering 5 cycles (max)

AATCC 96 Warp 5.0% Fill 5.0% Drying Time, minutes (max) 90 Internal Method 2/ Moisture Vapor Transmission, per square meter per 24 hours (min)

1000 ASTM E96 Test B

Pilling Appearance after 5 Laundering Cycles (min)

3 ASTM D3511,

AATCC 96 4/

Thermal Protective Performance, cal/cm2 (min) with spacer

10 NFPA 1971

Thermal Shrinkage (max) (warp and fill)

10% NFPA 1971

Vertical Flame, Initial

ASTM D6413 After Flame, seconds (max) 2 Char Length, inches (max) 5 Melt/Drip None Vertical Flame, After 25 Laundering Cycles

ASTM D6413

AATCC 135 1/ After Flame, seconds (max) 2

Char Length, inches (max) 5 Melt/Drip None 1/ Launder according to AATCC 135, 3, V, Aiii.

2/ See 4.4.5.7 3/ Finished cloth shall show fastness to crocking equal to or better than 4 (dry) and 3 (wet) for all colors, except Black which shall have a rating not lower than 1.5.

4/ Launder according to AATCC 96 Vic, Drying: A, except no pressing is performed after drying.

3.3.1.2 Basic material, knit. The basic material for the blouse torso shall be a meta-aramid/flame resistant rayon/nylon/para-aramid knit fabric conforming to SSM Industries Sigma 4 Star Knit Style SD-1883.00 or equal (see 6.4). The knit shall be a jersey knit and dyed to coyote color 498, and conform to the requirements as specified in Table II.

TABLE II. Material requirements for Cloth, Knit

Weight, ounces per square yard 5.3 – 6.3 ASTM D3776 Fiber content See 3.3.1.2 AATCC 20A

Knit construction See 3.3.1.2 Visual Bursting Strength, pounds (min) Initial (no laundering) and after 25 Laundering Cycles

ASTM D3787,

AATCC 135 1/ Dry 100

Wet 75 Air Permeability, cfm (min) 200 ASTM D737 Antibacterial properties 1-log reduction AATCC 100 2/ Dimensional Stability, Commercial Laundering 5 cycles (max)

AATCC 96 Warp 8.0% Fill 8.0% Drying Time, minutes (max) 90 Internal Method 3/ Colorfastness Laundering (after 4 cycles) 4 AATCC 61 Test 1A Light (40 hours or 170 kilojoules) 4 AATCC 16.2 Option 1or AATCC

16.3 Option 2

Perspiration (acid and alkaline) 4-5 (color change) AATCC 15 4-5 (staining) Crocking 4 (dry) AATCC 8 4 (wet) Moisture Vapor Transmission, per square meter per 24 hours (min)

1800 ASTM E96 Test B

Pilling Appearance after 5 Laundering Cycles (min)

3 ASTM D3511,

AATCC 96 4/

Thermal Protective Performance, cal/cm2 (min) with spacer

8 NFPA 1971

Vertical Flame

ASTM D6413 After Flame, seconds (max) 2 Char Length, inches (max) 5 Melt/Drip None Vertical Flame, After 25 Laundering Cycles

ASTM D6413,

After Flame, seconds (max) 2 Char Length, inches (max) 5 Melt/Drip None 1/ Launder according to AATCC 135, 3, V, Aiii.

2/ See 3.3.15 and clarification in 4.4.5.9.4 3/ See 4.4.5.7 4/ Launder according to AATCC 96 Vic, Drying: A, except no pressing is performed after drying.

3.3.1.3 Fiber Content (all types). The fibers for all fabric types shall be made of virgin material and the use of recycled or recovered materials is prohibited. The contractor shall keep this information on file for the duration of the contract.

3.3.1.4 Fiber and fabric identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. Each roll shall indicate cloth type and class.

3.3.1.5 Physical requirements (all classes). The cloth shall conform to the requirements in Tables I and II when tested as specified in paragraphs 3.3.1 and 3.3.2.

3.3.1.6 Seam Strength. Finished garments shall conform to the following minimum seam strength requirements when tested according to ASTM D5034. For seams joining woven fabric to woven fabric, the minimum seam strength shall be 90 pounds. For seams joining woven fabric to knit fabric, the minimum seam strength shall be 30 pounds. For seams joining knit fabric to knit fabric, the minimum seam strength shall be 30 pounds.

3.3.2 Color.

3.3.2.1 Cloth Type I. The cloth shall be dyed and printed with the warp effect side as the face.

The cloth shall be dyed to a ground shade approximating Khaki 475. The Woodland camouflage pattern shall be obtained by roller or screen-printing using either three or four rollers or screens, as appropriate for the Green 474, Khaki 475, Coyote 476 and Black 477 areas of the pattern.

Resin bonded pigments are not permitted except for a small amount of carbon black pigment may be used to meet the black shade providing all other requirements are met.

3.3.2.2 Cloth Type II. The cloth shall be dyed and printed with the warp effect side as the face.

The cloth shall be dyed to a ground shade approximating Light Tan 479. The Desert camouflage pattern shall be obtained by roller or screen-printing using either three or four rollers or screens, as appropriate for the Urban Tan 478, Light Tan 479, Highland 480 and Light Coyote 481 areas of the pattern. Resin bonded pigments are not permitted.

3.3.2.3 Cloth Type III. The cloth shall be dyed and printed with the warp effect side as the face.

The cloth shall be dyed to NWU II as specified in “Commercial US Governmentally Controlled Performance Specification Camouflage Print Performance Specification for AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II, and NWU III.”

3.3.2.4 Cloth Type IV. The cloth shall be dyed and printed with the warp effect side as the face.

The cloth shall be dyed to NWUIII as specified in “Commercial US Governmentally Controlled Performance Specification Camouflage Print Performance Specification for AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II, and NWU III.”

3.3.2.5 Cloth Type V. The cloth shall be dyed Coyote 498.

3.3.3 Labile sulfur (all types and classes). If the use of dyes and compounds containing sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is chosen, then they shall be applied such that the dyed cloth shall contain no more labile sulfur than shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in

4.4.5. When no standard sample is available, the dyed cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.3.4. Color matching (all types and classes).

3.3.4.1. Visual matching (all types and classes). The color and appearance of the camouflage printed cloth and dyed knit cloth, and permethrin treated garments shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 ± 200 K with illumination of 100 ± 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under horizon lamplight at 2300 ± 200 K.

3.3.4.2 Instrumental color matching (all types and classes). Instrumental color matching is used as a tool to quantify shade evaluation if visually shade is rated unacceptable. All the colors in the Woodland MARPAT shall be instrumentally measured except for Khaki and all the colors in the Desert MARPAT shall be measured except for Highland given the areas of these exempted colors are too small for accurate instrumental readings. Each measured color shall match the standard sample. See 4.4.5.2.2 for evaluation procedure and acceptance requirements.

3.3.5. Colorfastness (All types and classes). The finished camouflage printed cloth and dyed cloth shall show fastness to: light (after 40 AATCC standard fading hours or 170 Kilojoules);

laundering (after 4 cycles); and perspiration (acid and alkaline) and crocking (wet and dry). The colorfastness of the cloth shall be equal to or better than the standard sample, or equal to or better than the ratings specified in Tables I and II.

3.3.6. Pattern execution (Cloth Type I-IV).

3.3.6.1 Pattern execution (Cloth Types I-II). The pattern for woodland and desert MARPAT shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors, and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat of the camouflage printed finished cloth shall be 35 ± 1 ½ inches.

Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown on the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution, a pattern drawing will be provided, and the pattern of the finished cloth shall match that of the drawing.

3.3.6.2 Pattern execution (Cloth Types III-IV). The pattern for NWU II and NWU III shall be executed as specified in “Commercial US Governmentally Controlled Performance Specification Camouflage Print Performance Specification for AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II, and NWU III.”

3.3.7 Spectral reflectance (Cloth Types I-V).

3.3.7.1 Cloth Type I. The finished cloth shall meet the spectral reflectance values (in percent) for the visible/near infrared wavelength range, 600 to 860 nanometers (nm) for the colors specified in Table IV as applicable when tested as specified in 4.4.5.1.

TABLE III. Cloth Type I Spectral reflectance requirements

Reflectance values (percent) Wavelengths Black 477 Coyote 476 & Khaki Green 474

Nanometers 475 Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.

600 -- 10 8 18 3 10 620 -- 10 8 18 3 10 640 -- 10 8 18 3 9 660 -- 10 8 18 3 12 680 -- 10 10 22 3 14 700 -- 10 18 33 5 18 720 -- 10 22 45 7 20 740 -- 10 30 55 12 28 760 -- 10 35 65 18 36 780 -- 10 40 75 26 44 800 -- 10 45 80 34 52 820 -- 10 50 86 42 60 840 -- 10 55 88 53 68 860 -- 10 60 90 56 74

3.3.7.2 Cloth Type II. The finished cloth shall meet the spectral reflectance values (in percent) for the visible/near infrared wavelength range, 700 to 860 nanometers (nm) for the colors specified in Table IV, when tested as specified in 4.4.5.1.

TABLE IV. Cloth Type II Spectral reflectance requirements

Reflectance values (percent)

Wavelengths Nanometers

Lt. Tan 479 Lt. Coyote 481 & Highland 480 Urban Tan 478

Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.

700 38 53 19 41 25 44 720 38 54 20 41 25 45 740 39 55 20 42 25 46 760 40 56 21 42 26 47 780 41 57 21 42 27 48 800 43 58 22 43 28 50 820 45 59 23 45 30 52 840 48 62 24 46 33 55 860 50 65 25 48 36 58

3.3.7.3 Cloth Type III-IV. The finished cloth shall meet the spectral reflectance values (in percent) for the visible/near infrared wavelength range, for the colors specified in “Commercial US Governmentally Controlled Performance Specification Camouflage Print Performance Specification for AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II, and NWU III.”

3.3.7.4 Cloth Type V. The finished cloth shall meet the spectral reflectance values (in percent) for the visible/near infrared wavelength range, 600 to 860 nanometers (nm) for Coyote 498 specified in Table V, when tested as specified in 4.4.5.1.

Table V. Cloth Type V Spectral reflectance requirements

Reflectance values

(percent) Wavelengths Nanometers

Coyote 498 Min. Max.

600 8 18 620 8 18 640 8 18 660 8 18 680 10 22 700 18 33 720 22 45 740 30 55 760 35 65 780 40 75 800 45 80 820 50 86 840 55 88 860 60 90

3.3.8 Dimensional stability.

3.3.8.1 Dimensional stability (Cloth Type I-IV). The shrinkage in warp and filling direction of the untreated finished cloth shall be not greater than 5.0 percent for individual sample unit and not greater than 5.0 percent for the lot average when tested as specified in 3.3.1 and 4.4.5. The fabric shall not elongate. Manufacturers must compensate for actual fabric shrinkage in order to deliver finished, treated garments complying with the dimension requirements specified in 4.4.8.

3.3.8 Dimensional stability (Cloth Type V). The shrinkage in course and wale direction of the untreated finished cloth shall be not greater than 10.0 percent for individual sample unit and not greater than 8.0 percent for the lot average when tested as specified in 3.3.1 and 4.4.5.

Manufacturers must compensate for actual fabric shrinkage in order to deliver finished, treated garments complying with the dimension requirements specified in 4.4.8.

3.3.9 Permethrin Content and Insect Bite Protection. The finished garments with bite protection treatment shall be strictly limited to the level specified in 3.3.9.1 and provide the minimum insect bite protection specified in 3.3.9.2 when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.3.9.1 Permethrin Treatment. Permethrin treatment process and garment treatment shall comply with Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA) as amended (see 2.2.2).

Permethrin concentration in garments shall comply with EPA Toxological Category IV. The garments shall be treated using an EPA registered (See 6.10) permethrin insect protection treatment which shall use permethrin in accordance with Type II specified in MIL-DTL-44411 except that the application for Type II specified in paragraph 3.4 of MIL-DTL-44411 shall also be applicable to finished garment. The garments shall be labeled in accordance with 3.4.3. The permethrin finish shall be uniformly applied across the fabric or garments at a target level of

0.119 mg/cm2 for blouse sleeves and collar fabric and trouser fabric and strictly controlled to fall within the minimum to maximum permethrin levels specified below. The permethrin finish shall be uniformly applied across the fabric or garments at a target level of 0.102 mg/cm2 for blouse torso fabric and strictly controlled to fall within the minimum to maximum permethrin levels specified below. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in

3.3.9.2. The permethrin treatment shall be durable to repeated laundering to provide the minimum permethrin level after 20 launderings specified below. The permethrin level will be measured as specified in paragraph 4.4.5. The finished permethrin treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the cloth or garment.

Min: mg/cm2 to Max: mg/cm2

INITIAL

Blouse torso knit fabric 0.084 to 0.122 Blouse sleeve & collar woven fabric 0.102 to 0.138 Trousers woven fabric 0.102 to 0.138

AFTER 20 Launderings Blouse torso knit fabric 0.042 Trousers and Blouse sleeves & collar 0.051

3.3.9.2 Percent (%) Bite Protection. Finished permethrin treated trousers shall provide bite protection specified below when assessed by the bite protection testing specified in 4.4.6.6.

Government approval is required initially, and any time there is a change in the permethrin treatment formulation or processing conditions (see 4.4.5.3.1).

Condition % Bite Protection Initial >/= 85% After 20 launderings >/= 80% After 50 launderings >/= 75%

3.3.10 pH (all types and classes). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.3.11 Toxicity (all types and classes). All the finished cloth and garments shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.3.12 Ground shade/printed seconds/dyed seconds/mill seconds. Ground shade cloth shall be dyed in conformance with the specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric. Printed seconds shall be defined as cloth that has been rejected only for defects pertaining to color, infrared reflectance, or camouflage print patterns, which are cited in the specified basic material requirements. Dyed seconds shall be defined as cloth that has been rejected only for defects pertaining to color or infrared reflectance, which are cited in the specified basic material requirements. Mill seconds shall be cloth that has been rejected for visual defects only, and dyed to match ground shade (see 3.5.3). Mill seconds finished firsts may contain slubs and knots (see 4.4.6 and FED-STD-4B for all other fabric defects which constitute seconds).

3.3.13 Disposal of ground shade/printed seconds/dyed seconds/mill seconds/rejected garments.

All scraps, irregulars, extra material, and garments containing the aforementioned intellectual property/trademarks which are not utilized for Government contracts or a purpose authorized in writing by the Government, shall be destroyed and not sold or transferred in any manner. This restriction applies to the prime contractor, as well as all subcontractors. Contractor shall be prepared to certify as to the method and execution of the destruction of all scraps, seconds, irregulars, extra material, and garments containing the aforementioned intellectual property/trademarks.

3.3.14 Instrumented Manikin Test. The EFRCE shall provide FR flash fire protection in accordance with ASTM F1930 test method and shall have no more than 25% burn injury prediction including 2d and 3d degree during a four (4) second exposure at a 2.0 cal/cm²/sec heat flux.

3.3.15 Antibacterial properties testing. The Type V fabric shall contain odor reducing properties showing a 1-log reduction of bacteria when tested against staphylococcus aureus and pseudomonas aeruginosa bacteria per AATCC 100 with clarifications specified in 4.4.5.9.

3.4 Design and construction.

3.4.1 Design.

3.4.1.1 Blouse. The blouse shall be a multi-fabric design using two separate cloths for the main garment construction; a knit fabric for the torso and a woven fabric for the sleeves and collar.

The blouse uses a pullover shirt design with long sleeves. Both sleeve and collar are constructed of woven fabric; the torso is a knit fabric. The collar converts to a mock turtle neck for additional protection in a flame environment. The slide fastener front opening extends from the top of collar to the mid-chest, with a padded placket beneath the slide fastener, which improves comfort when the blouse is worn under the ballistic vest. There are two upper sleeve pockets with bottom bellows, a drainage hole located in the bottom bellow of each pocket, with a tapered flap and concealed two-button closure. Sleeves are one-piece, single layer with adjustable wrist tabs at sleeve hem for wrist closure adjustment. The blouse has external single layer reinforcement patches at the elbow.

3.4.1.2 Trousers. The trousers have a concealed button and buttonhole fly, front panels with a centered single stitched pleat (the fold of the pleat faces the outseam), hemmed legs, seven (7) evenly spaced 1 ± 1/8 inch wide belt loops with a 3 inch belt loop opening and side waist elastic adjustments. The elasticized portion of the waist starts at the front of the pocket bearer and extends past the outseam onto the back of the trousers to achieve the finished four inches of the waist circumference for each size. The trousers have two side hanging pockets and two welt opening hip pockets. There are two pleated cargo type pockets (the pleats face the back of the trousers). The larger pocket has a flap that is bartacked at forward lower corner and one rear button closure, a bottom bellow and elasticized pocket upper edge creating an adjustable opening to secure the contents when the flap is not buttoned. The elastic cargo pocket edge requires elongation/extension when the hand is inserted into the pocket yet does not distort the trouser leg when lying in the gathered/relaxed closed position. The smaller cargo pocket has a flap with two button closures and is not elasticized. Drainage holes are positioned in the cargo pocket bellow (positioned near the back of the pocket). There are two calf pockets (the pleats face the back of the trousers) with a flap bartacked at forward lower corner and a two button closure, to secure the contents when the flap is buttoned. The calf pocket must not distort the trouser leg when lying in the relaxed closed position. All pockets, except for the side hanging ones have a flap with fusible interlining and closure with concealed buttons. The trousers have single layer external reinforcement patches at the seat and knees.

3.4.2 Components.

3.4.2.1 Thread. The thread for the bobbin/looper shall be aramid, Tex Size 40 conforming to A- A-55217 or as an alternate, para-aramid spun staple thread, Tex Size 40 conforming to A-A- 55195, Type I, may be used.

3.4.2.1.1 Thread colorfastness and color. All thread shall be non-staining and show good colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The thread color shall be Khaki P- 1 (C.A. 66019 or approximating color chip 30277 or FED STD-595) for Cloth Type I and IV and Camouflage Green 483 (approximating color chip 34094 of FED-STD-595) for Cloth Type II and III.

3.4.2.2 Button Attachment Thread. All buttons shall be attached using aramid, Tex Size 40 conforming to A-A-55217.

3.4.2.3 Elastic Webbing. The elastic webbing for the trouser waistband and cargo pockets shall be 1 inch wide and conform to equal to or better performance of Type II, class 1 of MIL-W- 5664D or QST style 150-43171RA, 1 ½ ± 1/16 inches or equal. Elastic ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling. When 1-½ inch elastic is used, the manufacturer will adjust patterns to accommodate the wider elastic without altering finished dimensions created by GFM patterns and stitching. The color shall be natural for either class, or Camouflage Green 483 or black for Class 1 Type I and Class 2 Type IV, or tan for Class 1 Type II or Class 2 Type III. The elastic for the waistband shall be cut to the length needed to achieve both the trouser 1/2 waist finished relaxed and finished stretched measurements (for each size) as specified in paragraph 4.4.8, and the elongation force specified below. The elastic in the cargo pocket opening shall extend the full width to achieve a 6 ¾ to 7 ½ inches relaxed opening. The elastic will retreat to its relaxed opening position when the hand is removed. The encased elastic webbing for the cargo pocket shall lie flat in the relaxed state and not distort the trouser leg. The cargo pocket opening shall retain its elongation/recovery characteristic for the life of the garment. The finished elasticized waistband and cargo pocket features shall conform to the requirements listed in Table VI below.

Table VI. Elastic Elongation

Feature Elongation (inches) ± 1/16”

Force (pounds) Minimum to

Test Method

Maximum Cargo Pocket 1 ½ 2.5 to 3.3 See 4.4.5.4 Waistband ¾ 0.5 to 1.5 See 4.4.5.4 Waistband 1 ½ 1.5 to 4.0 See 4.4.5.4

3.4.2.4 Fastener Tape, Loop, IR Tab. The loop fastener tapes for the sleeve pocket IR tab shall be 2 inches wide and 2 inches long, CG 483 (approximating color chip 34094 FED-STD-595) for Cloth Type I and IV and Khaki P-1 C.A.66019 (or approximating color chip 30277 of FED STD-

595) for Cloth Type II and III and shall conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126. The loop tape shall be 1 + 1/16 inches in length. Cut edges shall be finished so that they do not ravel for the life of the garment.

3.4.2.5 Zippers. The blouse front zipper shall finish 8-1/2 inches long and shall conform to A-A- 55634, and shall be Coyote 498 in color.

3.4.2.6 Foam. The foam padding stitched into the zipper flap shall conform to PacFoam style 2LB UL94, Polyester Charcoal, 1/4 inch thick, or equal (see 6.4).

3.4.3 Labels.

3.4.3.1 Blouse labels. The blouse shall contain 3 permanent labels as specified below. All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

3.4.3.1.1 Flame Resistant Organizational Gear (FROG) label. Each blouse shall have a woven FROG label, 63 mm x 63 mm, cut single, fused edge, manufactured by IbisTek Bell Label or equal in the following configuration:

Garment Class 1 label Garment Class 2 label

The woven FROG label must be sewn on each blouse at the right lower front (as worn), to the left of the blouse combination label and 1 ½” above the hem.

3.4.3.1.2 Blouse combination label. A separate combination label (see 6.7 for example) shall contain size, body measurement, identification, and care information as specified below. The information needed to designate size and body measurement in the top portion of the combination label is specified in the Table VII “Size and Body Measurement.” The label color shall be Coyote 498. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform. The combination label shall be sewn on the right lower front (as worn), ¾” to the left of the side seam and 1 ½” above the bottom hem. Label size shall be no longer than 4” and no wider than 2”.

Size: The size – length designation (with abbreviation), body measurements, and stock number shall be included on the combination label. Information for each size is specified in Table VII “Size and Body Measurement” and shall be centered at the top of the label.

Identification: List one corresponding to blouse type ordered and delivered:

Class 1, Type I Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Blouse

Woodland MARPAT, with Durable Insect Protection Type I cloth fiber content Type V cloth fiber content

Or

Class 1, Type II Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Blouse Desert MARPAT, with Durable Insect Protection

Type II cloth fiber content

Class 2, Type III Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Blouse NWU II Desert Digital Camouflage Printed, with Durable Insect Protection

Class 2, Type IV Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Blouse NWU III Woodland Digital Camouflage Printed, with Durable Insect Protection

Contract Information:

Contract Number Contractor Name

Care Information:

DO NOT BLEACH, STARCH, DRY CLEAN, OR PRESS

1. Washing. Machine wash using Permanent Press Cycle or hand wash in warm water using mild detergent that does NOT contain optical brighteners. Rinse completely.

Do not overload the machine.

2. Drying. Tumble dry on low heat. Do not overload the dryer.

3. Fabric softener. The use of fabric softeners in not recommended due to potential to adversely affect the flame protection.

3.4.3.1.3 Blouse insect protection label. Finished blouses shall include a permanent insect protection label complying with an approved EPA registration (see 6.9). The label shall be heat sealed or stitched on all four sides and attached to left lower front (as worn). Labeling information, characteristics and location of labels are subject to Government approval prior to production. See paragraph 3.4.3.5.2 for additional EPA hang tag information requirement.

3.4.3.1.4 Blouse insect protection brand label. Finished blouses hall contain brand identification in accordance with the treatment’s EPA registration. Brand identification may be included in an expanded permanent insect protection label (see 3.4.3.1.3) or as a separate brand label stitched directly above the insect protection label. The contractors labeling is subject to Government approval prior to production.

3.4.3.2 Trouser labels. The pair of trousers shall contain 3 permanent labels as specified below.

All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

3.4.3.2.1 FROG label. Each pair of trousers shall have a woven FROG label, 63 mm x 63 mm, cut single, fused edge, manufactured by IbisTek Bell Label or equal in the configuration shown in 3.4.3.1.1. A woven FROG label must be sewn on each pair of trousers on the left back pocket (as worn) so that on the finished trousers the label shall face the wearer. The FROG label shall be positioned to the left (as worn) of the trouser combination label.

3.4.3.2.2 Trouser combination label. A separate combination label (see 6.8 for example) shall contain size, body measurement, identification, and care information as specified below. The information needed to designate size and body measurement in the top portion of the combination label is specified in the Table VII “Size and Body Measurement.” The label color shall be Coyote 498. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform. The combination label shall be stitched on all four sides and attached to the underside of the left back pocket with the writing facing out as worn, parallel to the FROG label. The attachment of this label will not be visible on the outside of the garment. Label size shall be no longer than 4” and no wider than 2”.

Size: The size – length designation (with abbreviation), body measurements, and stock number shall be included on the combination label. Information for each size is specified in Table VII “Size and Body Measurement” and shall be centered at the top of the label.

Identification: List one corresponding to trouser type ordered and delivered:

Class 1, Type I Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Trouser Woodland MARPAT, with Durable Insect Protection

Class 1, Type II Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Trouser Desert MARPAT, with Durable Insect Protection

Class 2, Type III Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Trouser NWU II Desert Digital Camouflage Printed, with Durable Insect Protection

Type III cloth fiber content

Class 2, Type IV Enhanced Flame Resistant Combat Ensemble (EFRCE) Trouser NWU III Woodland Digital Camouflage Printed, with Durable Insect Protection

Type IV cloth fiber content

Contract Information:

Contract Number Contractor Name

Care Information:

DO NOT BLEACH, STARCH, DRY CLEAN, OR PRESS

1. Washing. Machine wash using Permanent Press Cycle or hand wash in warm water using mild detergent that does NOT contain optical brighteners. Rinse completely.

Do not overload the machine.

2. Drying. Tumble dry on low heat. Do not overload the dryer.

3. Fabric softener. The use of fabric softeners in not recommended due to potential to adversely affect the flame protection.

3.4.3.2.3 Trouser insect protection label. Finished trousers shall include a permanent insect protection label complying with an approved EPA registration (see 6.9). The label shall heat sealed or be stitched on all four sides and attached to the underside of the left back pocket with the writing facing out as worn. The attachment of this label will not be visible on the outside of the garment. Labeling information, characteristics and location of labels are subject to Government approval prior to production. See paragraph 3.4.3.5.2 for additional EPA hang tag information requirement.

3.4.3.2.4 Trouser insect protection brand label. Each trouser shall contain brand identification in accordance with the treatment’s EPA registration. Brand identification may be include in an expanded permanent insect protection label (see 3.4.3.2.3) or as a separate label stitched directly above the insect protection label which shall not be visible on the outside of the garment. The contractors labeling is subject to Government approval prior to production.

3.4.3.3 Size and body measurements table.

Table VII. Size and Body Measurements

Location Size Measurement Chest (Size of Blouse)

X-Small Up to 33 inches Small 33 to 37 inches Medium 37 to 41 inches Large 41 to 45 inches X-Large 45 to 49 inches XX-Large 49 to 53 inches

Height (Length of Blouse)

XX-Short 55 to 59 inches X-Short 59 to 63 inches Short 63 to 67 inches Regular 67 to 71 inches Long 71 to 75 inches X-Long 75 to 79 inches XX-Long Above 79 inches

Waist (Size of Trouser)

X-Small Up to 27 inches Small 27 to 31 inches Medium 31 to 35 inches Large 35 to 39 inches X-Large 39 to 43 inches XX-Large Over 43 inches

Inseam (Length of Trousers)

X-Short Up to 26 ½ inches Short 26 ½ to 29 ½ inches Regular 29 ½ to 32 ½ inches Long 32 ½ to 35 ½ inches X-Long 35 ½ to 38 ½ inches XX-Long Over 38 ½ inches

3.4.3.4 Garment Lot Designation. For garment manufacturing traceability, each blouse and trouser garment shall have a lot designation in accordance with lot Numbering procedure as specified in DPSCM 4155.3, Quality Systems Requirements. The lot number shall be placed next to or above the combination identification / care label on the blouse and trouser garments.

Batch designation is not acceptable.

3.4.3.5 Hang Tag Labels.

3.4.3.5.1 Bar Code Label. Each blouse and trouser shall have an individual bar code placed on a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar-coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for each NSN by the contracting activity. UPC will be provided as Government Furnished Information. The initials "UPC" must appear beneath the code. The bar-code for NSN and UPC printing shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item. The UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.4.3.5.2 Insect protection label. Each garment shall have an individual paper tag attached that provides additional insect protection information required by EPA registration and subject to Government approval.

3.4.4 Buttons. The buttons shall be dull finish, 4-hole, 3ligne, and shall be in accordance with the following button style:

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Coyote 498. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. The buttons shall show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lb. when tested as specified in 4.4.3.2. When attached to the blouse and the trouser, the button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40 lb. (min.), when tested as specified in 4.4.3.3.

3.5 List of pattern parts. The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns which show directional line markings for proper assembly. The Government patterns are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor's working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures; however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

3.5.1 List of blouse pattern parts. Standard patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for single needle seams and 1/2 inch for double needle seams. Buttonholes, pockets and pocket flaps shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns and figures. The pattern parts list in Table VIII is provided for first quality fabrics and to ensure that the pattern set is complete.

TABLE VIII. List of blouse pattern parts – First Quality

Material Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature

Woven Cloth

FRONT_YOKE Front Yoke SLEEVE Sleeve COLLAR Collar PLACKET Placket ZIPPER_FLAP Zipper Flap ZIP_FLAP_REI Zipper Flap Reinforcement SLEEVE_PCKT Sleeve Pocket SLV_PK_FL_TB Sleeve Pocket Flap Tab ELBOW_PATCH Elbow Patch CUFF_TAB Cuff Tab LWR_SLV_PKT Lower Sleeve Pocket

Knit Cloth FRONT Front BACK Back SLVE_GUSSET Sleeve Gusset

3.5.2 List of trouser pattern parts. Standard patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for single needle seams and 1/2 inch for double needle seams. Buttonholes, pockets and pocket flaps shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns. The pattern list in Table IX is provided for first quality fabrics and to insure that the pattern set is complete.

TABLE IX. List of trouser pattern parts – First Quality.

Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature FRONT Front BACK Back CARGO_POCKET Cargo Pocket CARG_PKT_FAC Cargo Pocket Facing CRG_PKT_FLTB Cargo Pocket Flap Tab THIGHT_CRG_PK Thigh Cargo Pocket THG_CG_FL_TB Thigh Cargo Pocket Flap Tab SD_HANG_PCKT Side Hanging Pocket SD_HNG_PK_BR Side Hanging Pocket Bearer SD_HG_PK_FAC Side Hanging Pocket Facing HIP_POCKET Hip Pocket HIP_POCKT_BR Hip Pocket Bearer HIP_PCKT_FAC Hip Pocket Facing HIP_PKT_FLTB Hip Pocket Flap Tab LWR_LEG_PKT Lower Leg Pocket LWR_LEG_FLAP Lower Leg Pocket Flap GUSSET Gusset LEFT_FLY Left Fly RIGHT_FLY_LIN Right Fly Lining SEAT_PATCH Seat Patch KNEE_PATCH Knee Patch

3.5.3 Parts cut from ends and from ground shade. Use of ground shade and/or print second quality is restricted to: hip pocket, side hanging pocket, cargo pocket facing pattern parts and waistband lining. Printed seconds shall be defined as cloth that has been rejected only for defects pertaining to color, infrared reflectance, or camouflage print patterns, which are cited in the specified basic material requirements.

3.6 Configuration. The following specifications are needed to provide uniform appearance, comfort and durability in combat operations. End item blouse and trouser construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements of this document and the finished dimensions in Tables XIV and XV (see 4.4.8) and figures 1 – 4 to maintain item configuration and compliance to component and end item tests (see 4.4).

3.6.1 Seaming and stitching.

TABLE X. Seam types

Seam Placement

Seam Type

Gage

Stitch Type

Blouse sleeve/side seams SSa-2 3/16 to 9/32 inch 301 or 401 and 504

Shoulder/underarm seams, yoke seams LSbm-3 3/16-1/4 inch 301 or 401 and 504

Outseams, seat seam and inseams LSc-2 3/16 to 9/32 inch gage or 401and 504

Waistband LSk-2 1 ½ inch 301 or 401 Alternate Waistband- metered elastic LSbc-4 1/ 1/

Top stitching for pocket flaps, collar, cuff tab, flies, tabs, and front edges. SSe-1

1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge (uniform throughout the garment)

Closing of side hanging and hip pockets leaving ½” chain

SSe-2 and OSf-1

Or SSa-2 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges 301 or

515,516, or

Hip pocket…