1.1d MIL-DTL-82163D (MC), White Trousers MILSPEC.pdf

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for men's

white trousers.

1.2. Classification. The trousers will be of one type in the

following class, styles, and sizes as specified (see 6.2).

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

28 July 1997

SUPERSEDING

MIL-T-82163C(MC)

30 September 1994

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

TROUSERS, MEN'S - DRESS, WHITE

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;

distribution is unlimited.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

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Class

Class 1 - Gabardine, polyester and rayon (white)

Styles

Style A - With side pockets and hip pockets and flaps.

Style B - With side pockets only without hip pockets and flaps.

Schedule of sizes

Waists: 27 through 46 inclusive in X-Short, Short, Regular, Long and X-Long lengths.

1.3. Individual orders. When trousers are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton; or

Polyester-Covered A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and

Polyester Blend A-A-52108 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic, or

Synthetic DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple

(Plastic) V-F-106 - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking V-T-285 - Thread, Polyester

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of

Trousers

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927).

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the class of

trousers shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon conforming to MIL-C-41820, type III, class I, 8.0-ounce, white, shade 2400 (see 6.3).

3.3.2 Pocketing, lining, and interlining.

3.3.2.1. Pocket and pocket stays. The material for the pockets and pocket stays shall be cloth, polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be white.

3.3.2.2. Lining and interlining. The material for the waistband lining, right fly, pocket flaps, crotch and left fly interlining for each class of trousers shall be cloth, polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106 in white shade.

3.3.3 Buckram. The material for interlining the waistband of

each class of trousers shall be cloth, buckram, cotton 4.5-ounce, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-50186; white (bleached or unbleached). Commercial Ban Roll waistband may be used.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

3.3.4 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be type I, style 1, cam lock, size LS, short tab pull, brass chain, conforming to V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not apply. A staple bottom-stop shall be required. The tape shall match the shade of the basic fabric for each class of trousers or white, shade C, cable No. 66503.

3.3.5 Thread.

3.3.5.1. Polyester thread. The thread for all seaming operations shall be polyester conforming to type I, class 1, size A, 3-ply of V-T-285. As an alternate to the polyester thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 3-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used.

3.3.5.2. Color and colorfastness. The polyester thread shall be white, shade AG, cable No. 66049 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968).

3.3.6 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be white, shade AG, cable No. 66049.

3.3.7 Sewing hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be

melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to type II, class D, style 4, 22-line of V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall be white, shade BA, cable No. 62031 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966).

3.3.8 Labels. The labels shall show fastness to laundering.

Trousers shall have a combined identification-size instruction label (see 3.3.8.1).

3.3.8.1. Identification-size instruction label. The combination identification-size instruction label shall measure not less than 5-1/2 by 2-1/2 inches and shall conform to DDD-L-20, type VI, classes 1, 2 and 3 (combined). The content and format of the label shall be as follows:

Nomenclature:

Size:

Contract number:

Name of contractor:

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

LAUNDERING AND PRESSING INSTRUCTIONS

1. Hand laundering.

a. Launder in warm water using mild soap.

b. Scrub soiled areas.

c. Rinse thoroughly in clear warm water.

d. Dry without wringing.

2. Machine laundering.

a. Use a mild detergent.

b. Complete washing cycle for 30 minutes in

120oF to 140oF water.

c. Rinse thoroughly in clear warm water.

d. Set automatic drying for regular fabrics and dry for 15 minutes.

3. Pressing.

a. If pressing is required, use a cool iron.

DO NOT USE AUTOMATIC IRON ABOVE RAYON SETTING

DO NOT USE HOT IRON

4. Trousers may be dry cleaned.

3.3.9 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd

(Hook Flex H-49, K-50, H-89 and E-90); Universal Button Co.

(Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415); Patwin, Inc.

(Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slik-Slak); or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate. Prior to the use of an "or equal" item, the contractor shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval.

3.3.10 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband

stabilizer shall be cloth, interlining, cotton or synthetic, and nylon conforming to type I of A-A-52108.

3.4. Design. The trousers shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 and 2, having a two-piece lined waistband with hook and eye closure and outlet at seat seam; french type fly with slide fastener; seven belt loops, straight side pockets; hip

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

pockets with pocket flaps to button, style A only; outlet from crotch to knee at inseam and unfinished leg bottom.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the

contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the supplier's working patterns. The standards patterns shall provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for inseams and outseams and 5/8 inch for crotch seam, and allow a seat outlet at the waist in accordance with patterns. The standard patterns provide a four inch allowance for bottom turnup of legs. The standard patterns show size, directional lines for cutting, and are marked and notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Trousers shall be cut from the

materials specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below:

2Waistband interlining20

Material: Cloth, buckram, cotton

Side pocket Hip pocket (style A) Fly lining, right Stay, side pocket Waistband interlining Left fly interlining Crotch lining Pocket flaps (style A)

Material: Cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester/cotton

Front Back Right fly Left fly Side pocket (facing wide) Side pocket (bearer narrow) Bearer and cord facing, hip pocket (style A) Flap, hip pocket (style A) Waistband Belt loop strip Fly tab

Material: Basic

NO. OF CUT

PARTS

PATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

3.6. Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The trousers shall be

manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.

3.6.1.1. Operations. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the trousers.

3.6.1.2. Stitching, seams and stitchings. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the trousers.

3.6.1.2.1 Ends of seams and stitching. Ends of seams and

stitching (stitch type 301), except the ends of a continuous line of stitching, when not caught in another seam or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.

When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, the skipped stitches and thread breaks shall be repaired using stitch type 301 backstitched not less than 1/2 inch on each side of the skip or break.

3.6.2 Buttonholes. Buttonholes shall be eyelet-end, taper-bar type, well worked over gimp with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length shall be 5/8 inch. The bar at the end of the buttonhole shall have a minimum of four tacks, not including the first cross-over stitch.

3.6.3 Shade marking. The component parts of the trousers, except parts cut from ends, shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

c. Adhesive type tickets which show discolorations or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass on the material upon the removal of the tickets.

3.6.4 Pressing. All pressing operations specified in Table I

shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine set at medium (low) temperature (285oF maximum).

b. Cut the left fly interlining, side pocket, hip pocket (style A), and stays for side pockets in the warp direction.

a. Cut the right fly lining in accordance with pattern finished.

Cut interlinings/linings and buckram.

d. Cut the pockets on the straight of the material (warp direction) in accordance with patterns. Cutting of pockets in the direction of the filling is not permitted.

c. Cut the component parts for the trousers from one piece of basic material, except the following parts may be cut from ends: belt loops, left and right flies, pocket bearers and facings, and under ply of pocket flaps. When so cut, the parts shall harmonize with the shade of the trousers.

b. Cut the material in the direction indicated by directional lines on the patterns. Lay the fronts and backs so that the directional lines are in the warp direction.

a. Cut the trousers in strict accordance with the patterns furnished by the Government.

Cut trousers.1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

b. Adhesive type shade tickets, when used, shall be adhered to the inside of the trousers.

a. Mark or ticket all component parts (see 3.6.3) cut from one piece of basic material, except those parts cut from ends (see 1.c), to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the trousers.

Shade marking.4

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may develop into a hole, scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends, burns, and large exposed drill holes.

a. Replace at time of cutting any part of the trousers containing holes; seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakened slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes;

shade bars and dye streaks; or unsightly slubs, etc., affecting appearance.

Replacement of damaged parts.3

f. Cut waistband stabilizer of sufficient length to comply with operation 13.

e. The waistband linings may be commercial type using the polyester twill and buckram specified herein.

- or -

d. Cut the polyester twill for waistband linings and the buckram for the waistband interlining on the bias.

c. Cut the crotch lining pieces so that the fold will be on the bias and one of the inseam sides is in the direction of the warp.

Cut interlinings/linings and buckram. (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Finished appearance. The flaps shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, pleats, or puckers and shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the pattern. The edges of the flaps shall be well forced out and the edgestitching shall be uniform in width with the buttonholes correctly positioned, clean cut, and well made, and the stitching securely caught in the basic material.

Make hip pocket flaps (style A).6

A/3A/36-10EFd-1503 or

e. Overedge stitch crotch seam and seat seam.

A/3A/36-10EFd-1503 or

d. Overedge stitch inseam and outseam of backs. The back edge of side pocket stay, with the bottom edge of the stay turned up, may be caught in the outseam in the overedge operation.

c. The folded lining piece may be stitched to the crotch in the overedge stitching operation.

- or -

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301b. Stitch on the front, at crotch, a folded triangle lining piece of double thickness.

A/3A/36-10EFd-1503 or

a. Overedge stitch the inseam, outseam and the right front edge of fronts. The overedge stitching of the inseam shall extend from the bottom of the leg to the fly notch.

The overedge stitching of the outseam of front parts shall extend from the bottom notch of the side pocket to the bottom of the leg.

Finished appearance. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. The raw edge of the overedge stitched material shall be properly trimmed.

Overedge stitch trousers.5

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

a. The seven belt loops shall be made from a 1 inch wide strip of the basic material and shall finish 1/2 inch wide and 3-1/4 inches long.

Finished appearance. The belt loops shall be flat without distortion or raw edges. Stitching shall be of uniform gage. The loops shall be of uniform length and width.

Make belt loops.7

A/3A/348 min per button-hole

(incl.

tack)

Button-hole

d. Make a vertical, eyelet end, taper-bar type buttonhole, cut 5/8 inch long, through the center of the flap with the edge of the eyelet 1/2 to 5/8 inch above the center point. Buttonholes shall be well worked over gimp to fit a 22-line button, with the ends of the buttonholes securely tacked.

The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the flaps.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (b)

(shows finished seam)

301c. Turn flap, forcing out the corners, point and seamed edges.

Edgestitch the seamed edges uniformly 1/16 to 3/32 inch from edges.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (a)

301b. Seam the two pieces together 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the side and bottom edges, trimming for proper turning when necessary.

a. Flaps shall be made of two plies of basic material, or one ply of lining may be used as the under ply.

Make hip pocket flaps (style A).

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

c. In the finished trousers, the upper end of the fly lining shall extend to the top of the waistband, over the waistband lining. And the fly lining extension piece at the lower end shall extend not less than 1/2 inch beyond the inseam.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2301b. Seam lining to front edge of fly with 3/16 inch seam, to within 1 + 1/4 inch from top edge of fly.

a. The fly shall consist of one ply of basic material and one ply of lining material.

Finished appearance. The right fly shall finish without bulkiness, twists, puckers, or pleats.

Make right fly.9

A/3A/312-16LSbj-2301a. Position left fly on the left fly interlining with edges even.

Stitch back edge of the fastener tape to left fly through interlining with two rows of stitches 3/16 to 1/4 inch gage.

The ends of the chain shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inches above the fly notch.

On the finished trousers, the edge of the chain shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from edge at the top end of fly, tapering to 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the edge at bottom.

Finished appearance. The left fly shall finish smooth and flat without twists, puckers, or distortions. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

Make left fly.8

A/3A/310-14EFh-1406b. Fold in the raw edges of the strip so that they abut each other at the center back of the finished loop. Stitch the folded strip with a 1/4 inch gage double row of stitches and with an edge covering stitch on the back. The margin of stitching shall be uniformly 1/8 inch from the edges of the finished loops.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

a. The back pocket bearer shall be a single ply of basic material.

Finished appearance. The pocket bearers shall be properly positioned and securely sewn with stitching of uniform gage and without pleats, puckers, or other distortions.

Set hip pocket bearers (style A).12

A/3A/312-16LSd-1 or

LSbj-1

301c. Fold under the front raw edges of bearers and facings 1/4 to 3/8 inch and stitch to the pocket 1/8 inch from the folded edge; continue stitching across the bottom raw edge. A selvage edge need not be turned.

b. Position the bearer and facing on the pocket material in accordance with notch indicated on the pocket pattern.

a. The side pocket bearers and facing shall each be a single piece of basic material.

Finished appearance. The pocket bearer and facing shall be properly positioned and securely sewn with stitching of uniform gage and without pleats, puckers, or other distortions.

Set side pocket bearers and facings.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301a. Position flies with notches at lower end matching and seam fastener tape to back edge of right fly, stitching 1/4 inch from edge.

Assemble right and left flies.

(cont'd)

Finished appearance. The flies shall be even at the lower end where they join the crotch seam.

The fastener parts shall be set so that there is no twisting or puckering when fly is closed.

Assemble right and left flies.10

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Finished appearance. The darts shall be properly positioned and finished without pleats, puckers, or gathers. In the finished trousers, the dart shall be well tapered to a flat point at lower end and shall extend to the pocket opening in style A.

Seams darts in back.14

d. Use commercial buckram interlined waistband lining, provided the finished waistband conforms to the requirements specified herein (see 3.3.2 and 3.3.3).

A/3A/36-10SSa-1301c. Position stabilizer on interlining with one edge of stabilizer and free edge of interlining even. Stitch stabilizer to interlining 1/2 inch from edge.

A/3A/36-10LSa-1301 or

b. Overlap lining on buckram 3/4 inch and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge of lining. Fold lining over buckram and press.

a. The waistband lining shall be made of one ply of lining and one ply of buckram.

Finished appearance. The waistband lining shall be without distortion.

The waistband lining shall finish 2-1/4 + 1/8 inches wide.

Make waistband lining.13

A/3A/312-16LSd-1 or

LSbj-1

301c. Fold under the lower raw edge of bearers 1/4 to 3/8 inch and stitch to the pocket 1/8 inch from the folded edge. A selvage edge need not be turned.

b. Position the bearer on the pocket material in accordance with notches indicated on the pattern.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

A/3A/312-16SSae-2 (a)

301e. Fold pocket inside out, matching notches with pocket opening, and seam side raw edges.

A/3A/312-16LSd-1301d. Turn in the bottom raw edge of the cord facing and seam to pocket 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

A selvage edge need not be turned.

A/3A/312-16SSe-1301c. Cut the opening for the pocket through the pocketing midway between the two seams. Turn the lower part of facing through the opening and raise stitch, forming a 1/8 to 3/16 inch cord edge.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (a)

301b. Position the cord facing with the upper edge placed under the raw edge of flaps and abutting the flap seam. Seam the cord facing to the trousers and through pocketing 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the raw edge of the cord facing. The seam shall not extend beyond the flap.

A/3A/312-16LSq-2301a. Properly position the pocketing on the underside and the flap on the outside of the back of the trousers in line with the mark for the pocket opening indicated by the pattern. Seam the flap to trousers through the pockets 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the mark.

Finished appearance. The pockets shall finish smooth and flat without bulkiness, bulges or other distortions on the outside of the finished trousers. The stitching shall be uniform and secure. The pocket openings and flaps shall be in proper alignment.

Attach hip pockets and flap (style A).

A/3A/312-16OSf-1301a. Fold the hip darts in accordance with the notches and stitch the length of the darts.

The folded edge of darts shall be turned and pressed towards the seat seam.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

l. On the finished trousers, the pocket flaps shall be 2-1/4 + 1/4 inches at center measured from seam to center point.

k. The finished pocket opening (after bartacking) shall not exceed the hip pocket flap.

j. The depth of the pockets shall be 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches when measured on the inside of the pocket from top edge of the cord facing bottom.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301i. Securely tack both ends of the pocket opening through all plies of material.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1 (each edge)

301h. Seam identification-size instruction label on four sides to left pocket on the outer side of the material for class 1, styles A and B, trousers. Position of label on finished trousers shall be between lower edge of waistband lining and location of pocket opening.

A/3A/312-16LSq-2 (b)

301g. Turn down the flap and raise stitch the upper edge of the pocket opening through the back, flap, pocket and facing 1/16 inch from the seam, closing top of pocket.

A/3A/312-16SSae-2 (b)

(sides OSf-1 bottom)

301f. Turn pocket, forcing out corners. Fold the sides above the pocket opening and stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

Continue to stitch along the sides and across the bottom folded edge.

The ends of the bearer and cord facing shall be caught in the edge stitching only.

Attach hip pockets and flap (style A). (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301e. Position the identification-size instruction label on the outside of the left side pocket. Seam label to the pocket on all four sides, 1/8 inch from each edge. Label shall finish approximately 1 inch from the bottom and front finished edges of the finished pocket on the side against the body of the wearer.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (b)

(shows finished seam)

301d. Topstitch the front from notch to notch through the pocket material and facing, 1/4 inch from the finished edge of the pocket opening.

c. Cut the depth of the notches for the pocket opening 1/8 inch beyond the seam and turn the pocket to the inside of the front so that the seam will finish on the inside of the pocket, 1/8 inch back from the finished edge of the pocket opening.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (a)

301b. Seam the front, facing and pocket material together from notch to notch, 1/4 inch from the edge of the front.

a. Position the outside of the fronts on the facing of the side pocket in accordance with the notches for the pocket opening indicated by marks on the patterns.

Finished appearance. The edges of the pocket openings shall finish smooth and flat without distortion.

Pocket openings shall be of uniform appearance. The bottom front corners of the pockets shall be backstitched, and care shall be taken to avoid notching the pocket, on the underside, beyond the width of the side seam outlet.

Attach side pockets.16

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

c. Press right fly seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron with the fastener tape facing toward side seam.

A/3A/312-16LSq-2 (a)

301b. Sew on right fly with 3/8 inch seam with notches matching and with slide fastener tape caught in the stitching.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301a. Sew on left fly with 3/8 inch seam with notches matching. Turn fly to the inside with the seam 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of folded edge and press front edge without damages to the fastener.

Finished appearance. The seam join- ing the fly assembly to the fronts shall be without pleats, puckers, twists, or other distortions.

Join fly assembly to fronts.17

i. The finished pocket opening (after bartacking) shall measure 6-1/2 + 1/4 inches.

h. In the finished trousers, the top of the pockets shall extend into the waistband and be caught in the bottom stitching of the waistband lining.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301g. Securely tack both ends of the pocket opening through the front and bearer with a 1/4 to 3/8 inch tack.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (a)

301f. Fold the pocket right side in.

Seam raw edges 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges from step to bottom and continue along the bottom edge.

Notch pocket bearer and facing at top of step and turn.

Attach side pockets. (cont'd)16

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301b. Seam waistband to trousers 3/8 inch from edge with ends of belt loops inserted into the seam in the proper position and securely caught in the stitching (except center back loop).

a. The waistband shall be made of one ply of basic material.

Finished appearance. The waistband shall be seamed to the waist smoothly and neatly without fullness, gathers, or pleats. The belt loops shall be properly inserted and correctly positioned with the ends securely caught in the waistband stitching.

Sew waistband and belt loops to trousers.

A/3A/312-16SSc-1301a. Turn in the back edge of the side pockets and stitch through the stay piece 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge along side seam allowance, with the stitching continuing to the front bottom edge of pockets.

Finish side pockets.19

b. Spread open the outseams from top edge of trousers to bottom and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine with the pocket stay folded and pressed over the open seam.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301 or

a. Join outseam, with notches match- ing, with a 3/8 inch seam, catching the side pocket stay in the stitches with the bottom edge turned in.

Finished appearance. Outseams shall be carefully joined with notches matching, and without twists, puckers or pleats. The seam shall start and finish evenly and lie smooth and flat.

Join outseam.18

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (b)

301b. Turn back the end of the left waistband in line with the joining seam of the left fly to the front.

Stitch across the top edge of the waistband the width of the fly.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (a)

(each edge)

301a. Continue the stitching of the right fly lining to front and top edges of waistband, rounding off the corner slightly. Trim the corner.

Seam front and top ends of waistband.

A/3A/36-10SSa-1503 or

a. Join the back edge of the left fly and interlining together with overedge stitching and continue the stitching to the front edge of the waistband.

Finished appearance. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabrics. The raw edges of the overedge stitched material shall be properly trimmed.

Overedge stitch left fly assembly and waistband.

e. The front end of the right waistband shall be even with the right fly front. The front end of the left waistband shall finish even with the back edge of the left fly.

d. Press waistband seam flat against the waistband with a heated pressing machine or pressing iron.

(3) One loop on the seat seam.

(2) Side loops on the back and front finished edge even with the side seams.

(1) One loop in center of right and left fronts and back according to notches on patterns.

c. Position belt loops as follows:

Sew waistband and belt loops to trousers. (cont'd)

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

b. Position the eye at the center of the right waistband aligned with slide fastener scoops and to correspond with hook and left waistband. Attach eye to right waistband through a suitable reinforcement.

a. Position the hook at the center (1/4 inch off center tolerance) of the left waistband with the rolled edge of hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach hook to left waistband through suitable reinforcement.

Finished appearance. In the finished trousers, when hook and eye are engaged, the closure shall not bulge, pucker, or twist.

Attach hooks and eyes.24

d. Finished width of waistband shall be 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches.

c. Turn out the front end of the left and right waistband, forcing out the corners. Turn the lining to inside and baste or press the top edge. The corner of left end of waistband shall be pressed flat and smooth. The waistband lining shall not be exposed beyond the top edge of the waistband.

b. Left end of waistband lining shall finish at the front edge of the trousers, with the end of the waistband lining trimmed slightly back from front edge on an angle.

Right end of waistband lining shall extend approximately one inch under the fly in the finished trousers.

A/3A/312-16

12-16

7-10

SSa-1

FSe-1 or or

Hand

a. Insert top edge of waistband between the lining and buckram of the waistband lining, with the edge of the lining turned in. Join all plies with a row of imitation hand felled stitches or waistband lining may be felled by hand.

Join lining to waistband.23

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Finished appearance. Inseams shall be carefully joined with the notches matching, and without twists or puckers. The seams shall start and finish evenly and be smooth and flat.

Join inseam.28

A/3A/312-16LSq-2 (shows finished seam)

301b. Turn under the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining the seam from the top of the waistband to the notch 1/16 inch from the seam, through the slide fastener tape and the fly lining. The lining shall lie smooth and flat without pleats.

A/3A/312-16SSe-2 (b)

(shows finished seam)

301a. Turn the right fly lining to the inside and edgestitch the front and top edges of the right fly and waist- band 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. The lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers.

Finish right fly.27

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301a. Stitch down fly with waistband lining inserted between fly and trousers. The stitching shall be 1-1/2 + 1/8 inches from the front edge of the fly. It shall extend from the top of the waistband, and shall be curved to the fly notch at the bottom.

Finished appearance. The base of the fly shall be finished to avoid twisting, pleating or puckering.

The seam joining the left fly to the front shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers.

Finish left fly.26

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301a. Stitch top end of all pockets to waistband seam allowance with pockets properly positioned and smoothed out.

Stitch pockets to lower edge of waistband.

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

d. Press crotch and seat open.

A/3A/310-14SSa-2401c. Join the left and right assemblies at the crotch and seat seam from the fly notch to the end of waistband lining. Use two rows of stitches 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. The left and right assemblies shall be joined at the crotch with a 3/8 inch seam.

b. Place the left and right assemblies together, aligning the edges of the crotch seam allowance.

The right and left waistband joining seam shall be aligned and the notches at the lower end of the flies shall match. The base of the left fly shall cover the right fly on the outside of the finished trousers.

a. Measure the waistband to proper size before joining the crotch and seat seam.

Finished appearance. The crotch and seat seam shall be joined with proper tension resulting in sufficient elasticity of the seam to counteract any strain encountered in sitting or stooping.

In the joining of the seat seam, the inseams shall meet.

Join crotch and seat seam.29

b. Press inseam open.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1 (below knee) LSr-2 (a)

(above knee) or

a. Join the inseam from the bottom edge of the legs to the crotch with the notches matching. Form an outlet by tapering the seam allowance of the back from 1-1/8 inches at the crotch to 3/8 inch at the knee notch.

Join inseam. (cont'd)28

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Finished appearance. The waistband shall finish smooth, even, and flat without gathers, puckers, pleats, or other distortions either in the waistband or the trousers at waistband joining. On the finished trousers, the waistband shall be uniformly 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches wide.

The top edge of the waistband shall be 4-1/2 + 1/4 inches from the top of hip pocket flaps (style A). The waistband lining shall finish 2-1/4 + 1/8 inches wide.

Finish waistband.32

b. The right fly lining shall extend not less than 1/2 inch beyond the inseam in the finished trousers.

A/3A/312-16

7-10

SSac-3 (d)

(finish-ed seam) or

Hand

a. Turn under the raw edges of the right fly lining extension and stitch by machine or hand fell to each side of the open crotch and seat seam.

Stitch the right fly lining extension to the crotch seams.

a. Attach slider and securely staple the bottom of the fastener together even with the ends of the chain and the head of the staple towards the outside.

Assemble slide fastener.30

A/3A/312-16SSa-1 (each end)

301e. Fold back the waistband lining at the joining seam and single stitch each end to the outlet 1/8 to 1/4 inch from seat seam with the lower corner diagonally folded and caught in the stitching. Turn and force out upper corners.

Join crotch and seat seam.

(cont'd)

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

A/3A/312-16

28 per bartack

LSd-1301 or

Bartack

e. Fold the loop back even with the top edge of the waistband.

Turn under the bottom raw end and seam or bartack it to the trousers, the width of the loop, 1/4 + 1/8 inch below the waistband joining seam.

A/3A/312-16

28 per bartack

LSq-2 (b) or

Bartack

d. Turn up the loop, covering the attached end and stitch or bartack the width of the loop above and adjacent to the first tacking.

A/3A/312-16

28 per bartack

LSq-2 (a) or

Bartack

c. Position the center back loop over the seat seam with the finished side up. The top end of the loop shall be 1/2 + 1/8 inch below the top of the waistband.

Stitch or bartack across the entire width of the top end of the loop through the waistband.

A/3A/312-16

28 per bartack

SSb-1301 or

Bartack

b. Turn under the top end of belt loops and align the folded top edge of the loops with the top edge of the waistband. Securely stitch or bartack the turned ends of the loops through the waistband.

A/3A/312-16SSa-1301a. Drop loops and securely stitch them to the trousers 3/16 to 1/4 inch below the waistband seam. The tacking shall be hidden by the loops when the trousers are finished.

Finished appearance. All belt loops shall measure 2 inches + 1/8 inch from the tacking at the top of the loop to the bottom folded edge.

Tacking shall extend the width of the loop, not beyond. All belt loops shall be vertically straight.

Finish belt loops.33

A/3A/312-16LSq-2 (shows finished seam)

301a. Raise stitch the waistband 1/16 inch from the seam joining the waistband to the trousers, catching the waistband lining. The stitching shall extend to the stitching of the left fly (not across) and to the back edge of the right fly.

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Finished appearance. Buttonholes shall be clean-cut, well made, and correctly positioned. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

Make buttonholes.34

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Finished appearance. The buttons shall be securely sewn with the ends of the stitching securely tacked. The buttons shall be properly aligned with the buttonholes to secure a smooth and complete closure without bulging or misalignment.

Sew buttons to trousers.36

d. Bartacks shall be made 3/8 to 1/2 inch long. They shall be stitched through all plies of the material at the point of bartacking.

A/3A/328 per bartack

Bartackc. Bartack the front edge of the right fly to the back edge of the left fly with a vertical bartack.

The lower end of the bartack shall be approximately 3/4 inch above the horizontal bartack at the base of the fly.

A/3A/328 per bartack

Bartackb. Bartack the bottom end of the fly horizontally through all plies at the junction of the crotch seam and the fly.

A/3A/328 per bartack

Bartacka. Bartack both ends of all pocket openings. Bartacks for the hip pockets and watch pockets shall be vertical. Bartacks for the side pockets shall be horizontal.

Finished appearance. The trousers shall not be distorted by the bartacks. The pockets shall lie smooth and flat. The bartacks shall be properly positioned and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain.

Bartack trousers.35

A/3A/348 min per button-hole

(incl.

tack)

Button-hole

a. Make a horizontal eyelet end, taper-bar type buttonhole, cut 5/8 inch long, in the right fly, with the inside edge of the eyelet 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the front edge of the fly extension.

Make buttonholes. (cont'd)34

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Trim all ends of stitching and belt loops. Remove all loose thread, spots, stains and shade tickets, or markings, without injury to the material.

Clean trousers.38

c. Close flies, waistband, and pockets.

b. Press smooth and crease the legs in the center with the seams matching at the bottom and in the crotch. The inseam in the crotch may be slightly back of the outseam.

a. Press the top, flies, and pockets smooth and flat.

Finished appearance. All pressing shall be done with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine of a type suitable to obtain the desired appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practice.

Press trousers.37

A/3

A/3

A/3

20-22 per button 14-16 per button or

b. Sew a 22-line button on each hip pocket through the cord piece and the under ply of the pocket to correspond with the buttonhole in the flaps (style A).

A/3A/34 double (not incl.

shank wrapping

Handa. Sew a 22-line button by hand on the inside of the left waistband to correspond with the buttonhole in the right fly, with threads wrapped three or four times to form a shank. The stitching shall not show on the outside of the fronts.

Sew buttons on trousers. (cont'd)36

BOB/

LPRNDLSTCH/IN

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

3.7. Finished measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements shown in Table II.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

+1/2+1/2+1/2+1/2 +3/4 -1/2

+3/4 Tolerance -1/2

18-1/2 18-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2

17-1/2 17-1/2 18-1/2 18-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2

19-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2 22-1/2

18-1/2 18-1/2 19-1/2 19-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2 21-1/2

Regular, Long, X-Long

Short, X-Short

Regular, Long, X-Long

Short, X-ShortSeat 3/Waist 2/Size

Bottom 5/Knee 4/

TABLE II. Finished measurements. 1/

Inseams: 6/

X-Short 32 inches +1/2 Short 34 inches +1/2 Regular 36 inches +1/2 Long 38 inches +1/2 X-Long 40 inches +1/2

NOTE: Measurements for waist and seat shall be taken with the waistband and fly closed and with the trousers laid out smooth and flat.

1/ Measurements in inches.

2/ Twice the measurement taken across top edge of the waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

3/ Twice the measurement across the trousers, one inch above fly bartack, from folded edge to folded edge.

4/ The location of knee measurements shall be 12-1/2 inches below the crotch seam for X-Shorts, 13-1/2 inches for Shorts, 14-1/2 inches for Regulars, 15-1/2 inches for Longs and 16-1/2 inches for X-Longs.

5/ Measure along (unhemmed) bottom edge of leg from folded edge to folded edge.

6/ Measure along inseam from crotch seam to unhemmed bottom edge. (An allowance of three inches for hems is included in the inseam length.)

3.8. Workmanship. The finished trousers shall conform to the

quality and grade of product established by this specification.

3.9. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable

materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1. Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.3).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4).

4.2. Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all

inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in MIL-STD-1488.

4.3. First article inspection. When first article is required, inspection shall be made of completely fabricated trousers for all provisions of this specification.

4.4. Conformance inspection. Inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-1488.

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all requirements of referenced specifications, figures and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Samplings and examination of the end item shall be performed for dress (D) trousers in accordance with the provisions of MIL-STD-1488.

4.4.3 Dimensional examination. The dimensional examination

provisions for the finished trousers shall be as listed in Table II and as specified in MIL-STD-1488.

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging

requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by Department of Defense (DoD) personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point's packaging activity within the Military Department of Defense Agency, or within the Military Department's Systems Command. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1. Intended use. The trousers are intended for wear by male personnel of the U.S. Marine Corps as follows:

Class 1, style A - U.S. Marine Corps Officers.

Class 1, style B - U.S. Marine Corps Band, Drum and Bugle Corps, and Ceremonial Troops.

6.2. Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must

specify the following:

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

a. Title, number, and date of the specification.

b. Issue of DoDISS to be cited in the solicitation, and if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2).

e. Whether first article is required (see 3.2).

c. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

d. Styles and sizes required (see 1.2).

f. Number of trousers in first article (see 3.2).

6.3. Standard sample. For information regarding the availability of standard sample trousers and standard shades specified, address inquiry to the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids.

6.4. Figures. Figures 1 and 2 show the general design of the

trousers and are furnished for information only. In the event of conflict between the figures and the text of this specification, the test of this specification will govern.

6.5. Subject term (keyword) listing.

Band Enlisted Officer's

6.6. Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not

used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issue due to the extent of the changes.

Preparing Activity:

Navy - MC

Project No. 8405-N313

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Figure 1. Trousers, Men's - Dress White

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

Figure 2. Trousers, Men’s - Dress White

MIL-DTL-82163D(MC)

STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Thepreparing acfivity must complete blocic.s1,2,3, and8. lnblo&l, boththe document number andrevision letter should be given. I

2. Thasubmilter ofthkformmust complete bla&s4,5,6, and7. I

3. Thepreparing activity must provide areplywithin 30daysfrom raceiptof the form.

NOT& Thkfommay natbeusad torequast copies ofdocumants, nortoraqu=t waivem, orclarification ofrequirements oncumentconlracts. Commantssubmitted onthkform dono! constitute or imply authorization to waive any portion of Iha rafarancad document(s) or to amand contractual requirements.

iit%!%!%iD(Mc)

2. DOCUMENT DATE (YYMMDD)

970811

3. OOCUMENT TITLE

TROUSERS, MEN’S-DRESS, WHITE

4. NATURE OF CHANGE (ldenttiy paragraph numbarand hckdaproposad rawfia, tipo=ible. Attach astrasheets asneadadJ

5. REASON FOR RECOMMENDATION

a. NAME

COMMANDER, MARCORSYSCOM, PSE-D

b. TELEPHONE (krcluda Arae Coda)

(l)corrncsaricsl (2I AUTOVON

(703) 7844584

c. AODRESS (brcfuda Zii Codo) fF Wlf DO NOT RECEIVE A REPLY WfTHIN 45 DAYS, CONTACT

2033 BARNETT AVE, SUITE 315 Dofonsa fluafhy and Slandardiiatiorr Offiia

QUANTICO, VA 22134-5010 5203 Laasburg Pka, Suits 1403, Fafla Church, VA 22041-3466

Tafopfrona (703} 7!W2340 Autovon 2W2340

1 1 4

DO FORM 1426, OCT 69 (WI Pratioua aditions are obsoleta.