1.1d COAT MANS FULL DRESS SCARLET MARINE BAND MUSICIANS.pdf

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a

musician's scarlet, wool, full dress coat.

1.2. Classification. The coat will be of one type in the

following sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

Schedule of sizes

(Short, Regular, Long, Extra Long)

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

16 October 1997

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-82149B(MC)

9 June 1995

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, MAN'S - FULL DRESS, SCARLET,

U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIAN'S

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;

distribution is unlimited.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2021-11-19T16:37Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester

Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

(Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and

Polyester Blend DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage

(General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-E-20652 - Eyelets, Metallic, Eyelet Washers (General

Specification For) MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.)

ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys

(Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.)

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.)

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case, the specification shall govern.

3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounces, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115.

3.3.2 Collar and sleeve cuff material. The material for the

collar and cuffs shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 1 of

MIL-C-21115.

3.3.3 Lining. The material for lining the coat and collar and for making the collar eyelet covers, underarm shields, the coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of coat shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368.

3.3.4 Collar tab. The material for collar tab shall be cloth, wool broadcloth, blue, shade 2307 (see 6.3), conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405.

3.3.5 Piping. The material for piping shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3), conforming to type I of MIL-C-41820, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for piping the collar and ornamental sleeve cuff and 1 inch wide for

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

piping the front and bottom edges of the coat and seams joining the center back to the skirt of the coat.

3.3.5.1. Vinyl piping. The white vinyl piping for the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular with 7/16 inch welt and serrated edges.

3.3.6 Cloth, twill or plain weave. The stays for the armhole

and shoulder seams, the binding for the neck edge of the coat front interlining and the collar interlining shall be cut from cloth, twill or plain weave polyester, natural color, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The cloth shall be khaki, shade 3707.

3.3.7 Collar interlining. The material for interlining the

collar shall be cloth, cotton buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186.

The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard.

3.3.8 Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear, plastic pattern stock, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern.

3.3.8.1. Plastic interlining. The plastic interlining must

withstand wet (dry) cleaning. It must not melt or become distorted under wet (dry) cleaning or pressing.

3.3.9 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the back skirt seam, with ring and toggle, shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.7. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center.

3.3.10 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of

MIL-DTL-82114.

3.3.11 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the

requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.12 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.13 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armholes and waist seam shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type III, class 1

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply.

3.3.14 Thread.

3.3.14.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply.

The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No.

A, for bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No.

0 for machine felling; and ticket No.'s B and F for buttonhole needle and bobbin thread respectively. The thread for hand sewing shall conform to type II, class 3, ticket No. C, 2-ply.

3.3.14.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching; type I, soft finish, ticket No.

70, 2-ply for serging and overedge stitching; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and machine tacking armholes. The thread for tacking sleeve lining, hand tacking facing to interlining and basting shall be a good commercial grade. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used.

3.3.14.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968), except the silk thread for stitching the collar, cuffs and braid, which shall be black; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes, which may be white; and the thread for overedge stitching of the piping at bottom edge of coat shall be white.

The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, and in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light.

3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

3.3.16 Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the front of the coat shall be mohair, black, tubular, 3/8 + 1/16 inch wide, conforming to the following:

Weave Plain

Weight per gross yards, ounces 35 minimum

Picks per inch 9 minimum

Total carriers 16 minimum

Ends per carrier 6 minimum

Breaking strength, pounds 105 minimum

Shrinkage:

- length, percent 2.0 maximum

- width, inches Not less than the original width Colorfastness to:

- wet (dry) cleaning Good

- light Good

3.3.17 Buttons.

3.3.17.1.Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, enlisted design, 27-line and 40-line, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.17.2.Ring toggles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to fronts, back and sleeves shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.18 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 9.

3.3.18.1.Eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored 6 to 8 scores. The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled in a black shade.

3.3.19 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination

identification/instruction label and a size label conforming to

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

DDD-L-20. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.19.1.Combination identification/instruction label. The combination identification/instruction label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except all printing and the space between lines of printing shall be a minimum of 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows:

Nomenclature:

Contract number:

Name of contractor:

Wool Products Act information:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3.19.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S (short), R (regular), L (long), or XL (extra long), as shown by the following example:

40 R

3.4. Design. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design

shown in Figures 1 through 4, a semiformfitting, single-breasted fully lined coat with 14 gold plated insignia buttons on the right front and seven on the left front, having upper fronts, with seven rows of black braid, skirt type lower body parts with waist darts, a waist seam, a three-piece back with two gold plated insignia buttons at the waist, ornamental sleeve cuffs with gold plated insignia buttons, a stand up collar with a hook and eye front closure, metal eyelets and two cloth loops on each shoulder for attaching the epaulets. The lower edges and ends of the collar, the front and bottom edges of coat, the seam joining the skirt to the center back and the top edge of the ornamental sleeve cuff shall be piped with white cloth. The upper edge of the collar shall be piped with white vinyl cord.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished to the

contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The contractor's working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns shall provide a 3/4 inch allowance for side

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

seams and the seam joining the skirt to the center back, and a 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the

materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below:

1Collar interlining22

Material: Cloth, cotton, buckram

Front, upper Skirt, (lower) Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Collar lining Collar eyelet cover Underarm shield

Material: Cloth, rayon lining

1Collar tab12

Material: Cloth, wool broadcloth

Collar, outer ply Sleeve cuff

Material: Cloth, wool/polyester

Front, upper Skirt, (lower) Side (front) Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Front facing, right Front facing, left

Material basic: Cloth, wool, tropical

NO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

-Cuff and button marker24

Marker

-Collar interlining23

Plastic

NO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

3.6. Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coats shall be

manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.

3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitching. The stitch, seam and

stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material.

3.6.1.2.1 Tacking and backstitching. Ends of all seams and

stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line of stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3. Shade markings. The component parts of the coat cut

from one piece of wool materials and lining materials, including pairs of sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets where adhesive causes discoloration or whose adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

h. Cut the cotton buckram and plastic strip for interlining the collar on the straight in accordance with the pattern furnished.

g. Cut the twill or plain weave polyester and polyester blend stays for armhole and shoulder seams on the bias 3/4 inch wide and 4 + 1/4 inches long. Cut the polyester for binding the neck edge of coat front interlining on the bias, 3/4 inch wide and approximately 5 inches long.

Cut the polyester for interlining collar on the straight in accordance with pattern furnished.

f. Cut the collar tab from the material specified in 3.3.4.

e. Cut the wool material for the sleeve cuffs, and outer ply of collar from the material specified in 3.3.2.

d. Cut the body and collar linings, collar eyelet covers and top ply of underarm shields from one piece of rayon lining material. All other rayon lining parts may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut from ends, the shade of the lining shall match. Cut the strips for the coat hanger and lining securing straps 1-1/8 inches wide.

c. Cut all scarlet wool parts of the coat from one piece of the basic material.

b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns.

a. Cut coats in strict accordance with the patterns furnished by the Government.

Cutting.1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

b. The use of tickets with any metal fastening devices is prohibited on the rayon lining.

a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.1.3) all component parts cut from one piece of basic lining materials, and pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the coat.

Shade marking.3

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into holes, scissor or knife cuts, tears, mends or burns in the material affecting appearance.

a. Replace at time of cutting all parts of coat containing holes or seriously weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakening slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc., affecting appearance.

Replacement of damaged parts.2

j. Punch the reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the skirt back seam from cloth, cotton, buckram.

The reinforcement discs shall have a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center.

i. Cut the piping material (see 3.3.5) for piping the front and bottom edges of coat, edges of collar, top edge of ornamental sleeve cuffs and the seam joining the skirt to the center back on the straight.

The piping shall be cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for collar and ornamental sleeve cuffs and 1 inch wide for fronts and bottom edges of coat and seam joining the skirt to the center back.

Cutting. (cont'd)1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

c. Press the shields smooth and flat with heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

b. Turn the shield right side out, working out completely the seamed edges.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position the two plies of the material for the underarm shields with edges even. Seam the two plies together along the curved side and bottom edges 3/8 inch from the edges.

Finished appearance. The shields shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, gathers, or other distortions.

Make underarm shields.6

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Fold each cover in half across the width and seam 1/16 inch from the folded side edges.

AA12-16EFa-1 (each side edge)

301a. Turn under the side edges of the collar eyelet covers and stitch 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching.

Finished appearance. The collar eyelet covers shall finish 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches wide.

Make collar eyelet covers.5

c. Cut the lining securing straps 4-1/2 + 1/4 inches long.

b. Cut the coat hanger 3-3/4 + 1/4 inches long.

AA12-16EFp-1301a. Fold the 1-1/8 inch wide straps of lining material in half lengthwise. Turn the edges to the inside and seam 1/16 inch from the turned edges.

Finished appearance. The coat hanger and lining securing straps shall finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide.

Make coat hanger and lining securing straps.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeves at forearm.9

b. Spread open the cut edges of the dart, turn the lower folded edge flat against the body of the under sleeve and press the entire dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSa-1 OSf-1

(folded edge)

301a. Fold the under sleeve matching the cut edges of the darts. Stitch the entire length of the dart 1/4 inch from the cut edges of the armhole and taper the line of stitching to zero at the lower folded edges.

Stitch and press dart in under sleeves.

d. Press the cuffs smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-14BSm-1 (a)

301c. Turn back the cuff and piping, working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond edge of cuff.

Topstitch the cuff to the piping 3/16 inch from folded edge of piping.

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-14BSm-1 (a)

301b. Position the strip of piping material on the outside sleeve cuff with edges even and stitch together 1/8 inch from the upper curved and pointed edge of cuff.

a. The cuffs shall be made of one ply of the material specified in 3.3.2, piped with material specified in 3.3.5.

Finished appearance. The cuffs shall be uniform in appearance, shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, pleats, puckers or other distortions. The piping shall be evenly worked out and shall extend uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the seamed edges of the sleeve cuff.

Make cuffs.7

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

Finished appearance. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve at backarm.11

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-14LSa-1301b. Position the piped edge of cuff at the mark and stitch cuff to sleeve along the piped edge. The line of stitching shall be adjacent to the stitching of the cuff piped edge.

a. Mark the sleeves in accordance with the sleeve cuff marker for positioning of the cuffs, with notch on the cuff marker matching the forearm seam line and bottom edge of marker in line with the bottom raw edge of sleeve.

Finished appearance. The cuff shall be uniformly stitched to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges. On the finished coat, the length of the cuff, including the piping, shall measure 3-1/4 + 1/8 inches at the front and back creased edges, and 6 + 1/4 inches at the point. In the finished coat (after pressing), the point of the cuff shall be centered between the lower forearm creased edge and the creased backarm seam of sleeve.

Join cuff to sleeve.10

b. Spread open the seam and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSbd-1 to

SSa-1

301a. Position the top sleeve with upper forearm edge in line with the notch in the armhole edge of under sleeve and with the notches in the lower forearm edge of top and under sleeves matching. Seam top and under sleeves together 3/8 inch from forearm edge of top sleeve, forming a tapered outlet on the under sleeve.

Seam sleeves at forearm. (cont'd)9

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

AA12-16SSa-1 (cut edges) OSf-1

(folded edge)

301a. Fold the under sleeve lining, matching the cut edges of the under sleeve dart. Stitch the entire length of the dart 1/4 inch from the cut edges at the armhole and taper the line of stitching to zero at the lower folded edge.

Stitch and press dart in under sleeve linings.

AA4-6EFe-1 (b)

301b. Tack the raw edge of cuffs to the body of the sleeves with blind stitching. The blind stitching shall not be exposed on, or caught to, the outside of the cuff.

or

Hand

a. Turn the bottom of the cuff to the inside against the bottom edge of sleeve in accordance with notches, and baste along the turned edge of the cuff.

Baste and tack cuff to sleeve.13

c. Insert the shanks of the 27-line insignia buttons through the punched holes and attach ring toggles in each button shank.

b. Punch a hole through cuff and sleeve at each mark for attaching of insignia buttons.

a. Mark each cuff for location of three insignia buttons in accordance with button marker.

Insert insignia buttons.12

b. Spread open the sleeve and cuff seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-1301a. Join the top and under sleeves together at the backarm with a 3/8 inch seam, catching the ends of the cuff in the seam.

Seam sleeve at backarm. (cont'd)11

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

a. Position the sleeve lining on the sleeve with the upper edge of the lining extending approximately 1 inch beyond the armhole edge of the sleeve.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be seamed to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats.

Assemble sleeve and sleeve lining.17

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Join the top and under sleeve linings at the backarm with a 3/8 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve lining at backarm.16

AA12-16SSbd-1 to

SSa-1

301a. Position the top sleeve lining with upper forearm edge in line with the notch in the armhole edge of under sleeve lining and with the notches in lower forearm edge of top and under sleeve linings matching.

Seam the top and under sleeve lining together 3/8 inch from the forearm edge of top sleeve lining, forming a tapered outlet on the under sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve lining at forearm.15

b. Turn the cut edges of the dart toward the forearm edge and press the entire dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

Stitch and press dart in under sleeve linings. (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

a. The collar interlining assembly shall consist of one ply of laminated cotton buckram, and one ply of twill or plain weave polyester and one ply of mylar plastic.

Assemble collar interlining.20

a. Turn the sleeves right side out and assemble in pairs. Press the lower half of sleeves smooth and flat, creasing at the forearm and backarm. The backarm crease shall be on the backarm seam. Remove basting at lower end of cuffs.

Press sleeves.19

(silk)

C (silk)

(silk)

8-10

6-8

EFc-1 (b)

Hand or

b. Fell the folded edge of sleeve lining to the turnup of the cuff with blind stitching.

or

Hand

a. Turn under the bottom edge of the sleeve lining to finish 1 to 1-1/4 inches above the finished end of sleeve, and baste to turnup of cuff, or the sleeve lining may be felled to bottom of sleeve without basting.

Finished appearance. The sleeve lining shall not be short, tight or twisted at bottom of sleeves.

Fell sleeve lining turnup.18

AA4-6

1-2 or

Hand

b. Tack the sleeve lining to the forearm and backarm seam allowance, respectively, of the sleeve, commencing at the top edge of the cuff and extending to approximately 6 inches from armhole edge at backarm and approximately 4-1/2 inches from armhole edge at forearm.

Assemble sleeve and sleeve lining.

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16301e. Turn back the piping and outer ply, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping beyond the edges.

Topstitch the outer ply uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of piping.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-1301d. Trim the extension piping to 1/4 inch from the seamed edge. Spread open joining of extension and stitch to collar along seam joining piping to outer ply.

A (white)

A (white)

12-16SSa-1301c. Join extensions together as close as possible to outer ply.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSaa-1301b. Seam a 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide strip of piping to outer ply 1/8 inch from bottom and side edges, leaving a 3/4 to 1 inch extension on each end of piping at lower edge of collar. The extension ends of piping shall be approximately 3 inches from the pointed end of collar. Seam the vinyl piping to the upper collar edge with collar abutted against cord edge.

a. The outer ply of the collar shall consist of one piece of the material specified in 3.3.2, piped with material specified in 3.3.5 and 3.3.5.1.

Finished appearance. The piping shall extend at upper, lower and side edges of the outer ply and shall be uniformly stitched without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats.

Pipe outer ply of collar.21

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Seam the plastic, polyester and buckram together 1/8 to 3/16 inch from all edges and trim the polyester even with the edges of the buckram.

The polyester cloth shall be positioned on the inside and the plastic on the outside.

Assemble collar interlining.

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

f. Attach metal eyelets on each end of collar midway between the top and bottom edges and 1-1/2 + 1/8 inch from finished ends.

e. Turn collar lining and eyelet cover at the seam to the inside of collar and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-14SSa-1301d. Lap the upper piped edge of collar over the top raw edge of collar lining approximately 1/2 inch with lining face up. Stitch collar to the lining and eyelet cover along the piped edge adjacent to the stitching line of the collar piped edge. The stitching shall extend from center to center of eyelet covers. The collar lining shall extend not less than 1/2 inch from each end of collar.

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-14LSa-1301c. Position an eyelet cover on the underside at each end of the collar, with one edge of the cover 3/4 to 7/8 inch from the front end, and the bottom raw edge of the eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the upper piped edge. Stitch collar to cover along the piped edge adjacent to the stitching line of the collar piped edge.

b. Press the collar smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

C (silk)

2-3Handa. Position the interlining assembly on the inside of the outer ply under the unattached edge of piping. Tack all the raw edges of piping to the polyester and cotton interlining, making the outer ply form a smooth and snug fit.

Finished appearance. The collar shall be assembled without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats.

Assemble collar.22

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

b. Press the pleat smooth and flat at the top end and tapering to a flat point at the lower end. The pleat shall extend approximately 5 to 5-1/2 inches in length.

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Fold the skirt lining in accordance with notches on the pattern to form a 3/4 inch pleat at the waist line. Stitch across the pleat 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge.

Join upper body lining assembly to skirt.

70/270/26-10EFd-1503-504f. Overedge stitch together the waist dart, side seam and back side seam. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

AA10-14SSa-1301e. Position center back to the respective side backs with edges even and notches matching. Join together with a 3/8 inch seam.

AA12-16SSa-1301d. Position the side back panel and fronts with edges even and with notches matching. Seam together at the side seam with a 3/4 inch seam.

AA12-16OSf-1301c. Fold the underarm dart and seam with a 3/8 inch seam at the center, tapering to zero at the upper and lower ends.

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Fold the upper front, matching the cut edges of the dart. Seam the waist dart with a 3/8 inch seam at the lower end of the waist dart, tapering to zero at the upper end.

a. The body lining shall consist of an upper front, a side back panel, a center back panel and a skirt.

Finished appearance. All darts and joining seams shall finish smooth and flat without pleats, puckers or gathers. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

Assemble body lining.23

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

70/270/26-10EFd-1503-504a. Overedge stitch together the facing-lining seam allowance. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

Finished appearance. The overedge stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric.

Serge or overedge stitch facing-lining assembly.

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Seam the front edge of the lining to the back edge of the facing 3/8 inch from the edge. The stitching shall extend from the top edge of the facing to approximately 1-1/4 inches from the bottom edge.

a. Position the lining on the wool facing with the top edges even.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be carefully aligned and seamed to the facing so that in the finished coat, the lining shall lie smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material or other defect or distortion.

Seam wool facing to lining assembly.25

e. Press all seams and darts smooth and flat. The waist seam shall be pressed toward the bottom and the remaining seams and darts towards the front.

70/270/26-10EFd-1503-504d. Overedge stitch the entire waist seam allowance with all joining seams caught in the stitching.

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Position the upper assembly to the skirt (face to face), with all edges even and join together at the waist with a 3/8 inch seam. The seam allowance for the waist darts, underarm darts, side and side back seams shall face toward the front.

Join upper body lining assembly to skirt. (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

AA12-16OSf-1301e. Fold the skirt dart in accordance with notches on patterns and stitch the length of the dart. The dart shall taper from 3/4 inch at the top to zero at the lower end. Dart shall finish approximately 5-1/4 to 5-1/2 inches long.

AA12-16SSa-1301d. Position the side back and side front with edges even and notches matching. Seam together at the side with a 3/4 inch seam.

AA12-16SSa-1301c. Position the upper front and side panel with edges even, and join together with a 3/8 inch seam.

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Fold the upper fronts, matching the cut edges of the waist dart, and stitch the entire length of the dart 3/8 inch from the cut edges at the lower end and tapering to a point at the upper end.

a. The assembly shall consist of upper front, side front, side back, center back and lower skirt.

Finished appearance. All darts and joining seams shall finish smooth and flat without pleats, puckers or gathers. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

Make outer assembly.28

AA12-16SSa-1 (each edge)

301a. Sew the identification label to the outside of the right facing with a single row of stitches 1/16 inch from each edge.

Finished appearance. The identifi-tion label shall be positioned so that in the finished coat, the label shall be midway between front and back edge of the right facing and with the bottom edge of the label approximately 4 inches from the bottom finished edge of the coat.

Sew on identification label.27

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

AA12-16OSf-1301a. Fold 1 inch piping in half lengthwise. Seam piping 1/8 inch from folded edge.

Finished appearance. The finished piping shall be of uniform width, without twists, puckers, pleats or distortion. Piping shall extend along the back edge of skirt.

Pipe skirt (See Figure 5).29

l. Press and shape the fronts on a suitable type heated pressing machine, shrinking the fronts to eliminate the excess fullness of the chest.

k. Overedge stitch the entire waist seam allowance from end to end.

j. The tape shall be sewn with the normal tension, not loose or tight, and shall extend from the side back seam to not more than 3 inches from the front edge of the fronts. Spread open the waist seam and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSa-1301i. Position the upper assemblies and the skirt with fronts and edges even and with the back edge of the side back positioned 3/8 inch from the back edge of skirt as indicated by the notch at the top of the waist of the skirt. Join together at the waist with a 3/8 inch seam and with the 1/4 inch wide stay tape positioned on the upper assembly 1/4 inch from the upper edge and caught in the stitching.

70/270/26-10EFd-1503-504h. Overedge stitch the waist dart, underarm dart and side seam.

g. Spread open the waist dart and the underarm and side seam and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

f. Press skirt dart flat on dart seam without turning dart either to the right or left.

Make outer assembly. (cont'd)28

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

b. Spread open the side back seam from armholes to the waist seam, and press smooth and flat. Press skirt back seams from waist seam to bottom of coat smooth and flat with edge of each seam toward the center back.

Pressing shall be done with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

AA12-16SSa-1 (above waist seam) LSaj-1 (below waist seam)

301a. Position and join the left and right assemblies to the center backpart with a 3/8 inch seam down to the waist seam and with a 3/4 inch seam from the waist seam to the bottom of the coat.

Finished appearance. The backparts seams shall start and finish evenly and shall be smooth without gathers, puckers or pleats.

Join center back to side back and skirt.

AA10-14SSa-1301d. Position the folded edge of piping on the mark line, and stitch piping to skirt 3/16 to 1/4 from the folded edge of piping. Piping shall finish with a minimum 1/2 inch excess at the top end to give a neat finish.

In the finished coat, the folded edge of piping shall extend 1/8 inch beyond the seam.

c. Mark along back edge of skirt for the positioning of the piping. The mark line shall be 7/8 inch from the back edge and shall extend from the top to bottom of the skirt.

70/2

70/2

70/2

70/2

6-10

6-10

EFd-1503 or

b. Serge or overedge stitch the raw edges of the piping together.

Pipe skirt (See Figure 5). (cont'd)29

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

AA12-16SSaa-1301a. Sew the cotton tape to the armholes starting with one end approximately 1 inch above the notch on the fronts and continuing along the lower and back edge of the armholes to approximately 1/2 inch from shoulder edge.

Tape armholes.33

NOTE: The dressing and shaping of the left front shall be performed in the sewing room.

b. The mark line shall be 1 inch from the upper front edge to 1-1/8 inches at the waist seam. Continue on the straight line, from waist seam to the notch at the bottom of the skirt.

a. Mark and shape the left front edge of coat, from the top notch to the waist seam.

Mark and dress left front.32

AA10-14SSaa-1301a. Seam the 3/4 inch wide stays to the underside of the front along the shoulder edges and upper front edge of the armhole, respectively, 1/8 inch from the outer edges. The strip for the shoulders shall be positioned approximately 1/2 inch from the neck and armholes respectively. The strip for the upper edge of the armholes shall be positioned approximately 1/2 inch from the shoulder.

Finished appearance. The reinforcement stays shall be sewn to the armhole and shoulder edges of the front without gathers, puckers or pleats. The top end of the armhole stay and lower edge of the shoulder stay shall form a right angle at the armhole without the stays overlapping each other.

Seam reinforcement stay to armhole and shoulder.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

c. Notch out the excess piping material at the top and bottom front corners to eliminate bulkiness. Trim the inner edge of piping on the left front only from the upper front down to approximately 1 to 1-1/2 inches below waist seam, so that the piping will not interfere with front buttonholes.

Stitch piping to coat. (cont'd)35

A (Silk)

A (silk)

10-14SSe-2 (b)

301b. Turn the piping to the inside, working out the folded edge of piping 1/8 inch beyond edges of coat.

Topstitch coat to the piping 3/16 inch from the folded edge of piping, catching the turned under portion of the piping in the stitching.

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Position the 1 inch wide strip of piping material on the outside of the left and right front, with one edge even with top, front and bottom edges of coat. Stitch piping to coat 1/8 inch from edge. The piping shall extend from the collar notch at the top, along the left and right front and the bottom edge of the coat.

Finished appearance. The piping shall be uniformly stitched to the coat without twists, puckers or pleats. The piping shall extend from the collar notch at top edge of the right front to the collar notch at top edge of the left front.

Stitch piping to coat.35

a. Press the shoulder blades and the armhole tape smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or a suitable type pressing machine.

Press shoulder blades and armhole tapes.

b. The tape shall be stitched with slight tension along the lower front edge of the armhole and shall be held taut while stitching along the back edge.

Tape armholes. (cont'd)33

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

c. Remove stitches joining the front edge of polyester to coat front interlining approximately 1/2 inch back from front and top edge of fronts.

Trim coat front interlining.

(cont'd)

b. Notch the top edge of the interlining in line with the collar notch.

a. Trim the top edge of coat interlining even with the top edge of fronts from the point of shoulder to the collar notch.

Trim coat front interlining.37

Hopper

Hand or

b. Baste along the shoulder, allowing room for setting the shoulder pad, working the fullness towards the armhole. Baste along the front of the armhole approximately 1-1/2 inches from the edge and continue to baste down the back edge of interlining, across the waist dart, to approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of fronts. Baste along the top edge from the basting stitches for the shoulder to approximately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge. Continue to baste approximately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge to the bottom edge of fronts.

Hopper

Hand or

a. Position the left and right fronts on the respective coat front interlining and baste the interlining and fronts together from approximately 3-1/2 inches down from the shoulder edge to approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of the front.

Interline fronts.36

70/270/26-10EFd-1503 or

d. Serge stitch the raw edge of the piping at the bottom edge of the coat.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

101a. Place the inner edge of piping on the outside of the interlining at the top, front and bottom edges. Baste piping to interlining through the fronts.

Fell piping to coat front interlining.

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Smoothly fold the free edge of the binding over the top edge and to the underside of the interlining.

Secure the free edge of binding to the interlining with a row of stitches 1/8 inch from the raw edge of the binding.

AA8-10LSa-1301a. Lap the 3/4 inch wide strip of binding on the outside of the coat front interlining from the collar notch to shoulder point, approximately 1/4 inch. Stitch the binding to the interlining 1/8 inch from the raw edge of the binding.

Finished appearance. The polyester binding shall be uniformly stitched along the gorge of the coat front interlining from the collar notch to the shoulder point.

Bind top neck edge of interlining.39

AA8-10EFa-3301a. Fold the polyester back and over the top and front raw edge of the interlining. Stitch along the top and front edge with three rows of stitches 1/4 inch apart, placing the first row 1/8 inch from folded front edge and catching the turned under portion in the stitching.

Bind front edge and gorge of interlining.

e. Trim the shoulder edge of the coat front interlining to approximately 3/4 inch from shoulder at armhole edge of fronts and taper the trimming to 3/8 inch at the neck.

d. Turn the coat inside out and trim the interlining only, approximately 1/4 inch back from the front and top edge of fronts.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

b. Extend each buttonhole line towards the back and armhole edge.

(Line B shall be 1 inch shorter than line A). The length of the top and bottom line is determined by the position of the harp on the second line from the top which shall be approximately 1-7/8 from the armhole edge to the center of the harp.

Measure the second line from the front edge of the buttonhole line to the center of the harp. Transfer the same measurement to the bottom line less 1 inch. Draw a straight line from the bottom line through the center of the harp up to the top line, establishing line A-C and B-D as shown on Figure 5.

a. Mark the location of seven buttonholes on the outside of the left front, as shown on Figure 5.

The top buttonhole (line A) shall be positioned 1 inch below the upper piped edge and 5/8 inch form the front piped edge. The lower buttonhole (line B) shall be on the waist seam and 5/8 inch from front piped edge. The remaining five buttonhole marks shall be evenly spaced.

Mark fronts for positioning the braid and buttonholes (see Figure 5).

d. Press the left and right fronts on a suitable type heated pressing machine, with the chest portion to conform to the shape of the body.

c. Pull and remove basting stitches from piping.

AA

C (silk)

4-6

4-6

EFc-1301 or

Hand

b. Fell the upper front and lower inner edge of the piping to the coat front interlining.

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

g. Position the center of the harp pattern at the line C-D, with the upper edge of the pattern positioned at the bottom side of each horizontal line. Mark the harp in accordance with the pattern marker. The bottom edges of the harp on each row should be of equal distance from the line below. The braid shall not overlap, but may touch on the shorter/smaller sizes.

f. Draw a circle 7/8 + 0-1/32 inch in diameter on each side of the seven horizontal lines, centered to bisect line E-F and with the edge of each circle touching the horizontal line forming a figure 8 design as shown on Figure 5.

e. Trace the seven lines on the right front to coincide with the lines on the left front; the lines on the right front shall extend 3/4 to 1 inch from the front piped edge. The vertical lines on the right front shall be identical to lines C-D-E-F on the left front.

d. Position left front of coat on right front, face to face with the collar notches even and the left front edge 1 inch back of the right front edge at collar notch and waist seam and armhole edge even.

c. Bisect the top line A-C and bottom line B-D and connect the bisecting points with a straight line E-F.

Mark fronts for positioning the braid and buttonholes (see Figure 5).

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

C

(black)

2-6Handc. Tack loops at button edge of coat together to the coat to finish secure and flat.

C (silk) (black)

2-6Handb. Tack inside edges of braid circles to coat, forming an inner hole approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.

C (silk) (black)

2-6Handa. Securely tack all unattached edges of braid to provide a smooth, secure and flat surface of stitching.

Tack braid.43

C (silk) (black)

2-6Handc. Baste the bottom edge of braid along the straight line to the circle, follow circle back to straight line and continue to end of straight line.

C (silk) (black)

2-6Handb. Begin with cut end of braid even with straight line at top of harp.

Baste the braid along its forward edge down the center of harp to the forward edge of harp center.

Continue up the backarm along the back edge of harp to the straight line at top using the seam edge of the braid.

a. Baste braid by hand along each side of the horizontal line and around the circle figure 8 design and around the harp. The braid shall begin and end at the harp with both ends of the braid secured and tacked under the horizontal braid. On the left front the braid shall be basted around the buttonhole line and the outer edge of the braid shall finish approximately 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the piped front edge.

Baste braid (see Figure 6).42

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82149C(MC)

a. Position the left and right fronts to the respective front facing (face to face), with the waistline notch of the front in line with the notch on the facing and with the front piped edge approximately 3/8 inch from the front edge of facing.

Mark along the top front edges of facing.

Join facing to fronts.45

C (silk)

8-10Handc. Hand stitch the inner edges of horizontal braid together on both fronts from harp ends to end of buttonhole opening on left front and from harp ends to front end of braid on right front.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-130…