Atch_4_-_USAFA_Specification_350.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION 350

OVERCOAT, CADET, MENS & WOMEN’S

14 APRIL 2016

FA7000-16-T-0075

Attachment 4

USAFA CU 350

14 APR 2016

OVERCOAT, CADET, MEN’S & WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This specification outlines requirements for overcoats worn by cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs CO.

1.2. Classification. The overcoats shall be of one type in the following classes.

Class 1: Stock Class 2: Made to Measure – A garment that is made to the measurements of the cadet and fits properly without the altering of outlets intended for later use.

1.2.1. Lengths and Sizes. The garments shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I. SCHEDULE OF SIZES & LENGTHS

Men’s Women’s Extra Short 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Short 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Medium Regular 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Regular 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Medium Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Extra Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Extra Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26

1.2.2. Class 2 - Made to Measure. The finished measurements of these coats will depend upon the result of the cadets’ measurements, which will be furnished by the government.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government Documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

A-A-3174 Plastic, Sheet and Strip, Thin Gauge, Polyolefin A-A-50067 Cloth, Flannel, Wool A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven And No woven A-A-50196 Thread, Silk A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton, or Polyester Covered A-A-52071 Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) A-A-52097 Cloth, Cotton, Wigan A-A-52105 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton, or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling

A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill Or Plain Weave, Polyester And Polyester Blend A-A-55187 Braid, Textile (Flat) A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods V-T-285 Thread, Polyester V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple (Plastic)

MILITARY

MIL-B-371 Braid, Textile Tubular MIL-B-3461 Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-3738K Cloth, Elastique, Wool, Type II, Class 1 MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-15064 Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

STANDARDS

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches And Seams

ANSI

ANSI/ASQCZ1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

2.1.2 Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2. 2 Non-government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585 https://assistca.dla.mil/

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1. Samples. Samples may be furnished by the government only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished coat of each gender in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification and Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations.

Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. Shall be cloth, elastique, wool, USAF Academy Blue, Shade 500, 18.05 ounces, conforming to Specification MIL-C-3738K, dated 31 March 1987. When the basic fabric is provided as Government-furnished property, the contractor is required to inspect the basic material. If defects are noticed they shall be marked in a clear manner and reported to the government.

3.3.2 Lining. The lining shall be a minimum 2.2oz 100% polyester complying with class III of A-A-52106.

The color shall be black or a closely matching blue and the minimum weight shall be 2.2 ounces per square yard.

3.3.3. Buttons, Hardware, & Fasteners.

3.3.3.1 Buttons, Metal, Chrome. The buttons for each side

of the front shall be 45-line for men’s and 36-line for women’s and shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Class B (Wings & Star) of Specification MIL-B-3461. The functional buttons, the buttons used with the buttonholes to fasten the coat front closed, shall have a 5/16” (#45) shank. Buttons for the decorative front shall be the short shank flat eye counter-sunk #16.

3.3.3.2 Buttons, Plastic, Stayer. The stayer buttons shall be Style 15, 18-line, Type II, Class D, melamine formaldehyde, 2 or 4-hole, conforming to Specification V-B-871. These buttons are for staying the metal buttons. The color shall approximately match the basic fabric or black. There shall be eight for staying the all the metal buttons except two of the functional/fastening buttons.

3.3.3.3. Stayer-Fastening Buttons. There shall be two, Style 20, 34 line stay buttons for staying the top and bottom metal buttons on the men’s left-front and the women’s right-front. The securing threads of these buttons shall be wrapped with threads, forming a “thread shank”. The position of these buttons shall coincide with the corresponding buttonholes on decorative fronts for fastening purposes.

3.3.4. Interlining, General. The interlining used for these garments shall be as specified or equal.

3.3.4.1. Interlining Wigan. The material for interlining sleeve bottoms and bias backing for lining of standing collar shall be cloth, cotton wigan, dark color/black, 3.6 ounces per square yard, conforming to Type II of Specification A-A-52097.

3.3.4.2. Interlining, Collar. The material for the collar interlining shall conform to Type I, Class 2, natural or bleached, of A-A-50186.

3.3.4.3. Construction Tapes. All construction tapes shall be of good commercial quality for the purposes intended.

3.3.4.3.1. Stay Tape. The tape shall be cotton, unbleached, herringbone twill weave and fully shrunk, conforming to type 1, class 1 of Commercial Item Description A-A-52071. The widths shall be 1/4” for staying armholes and 5/8” for staying front and bottom edges. The tape shall be preshrunk so that it will not shrink more than 2.0 percent. The preshrinking process shall not be identified by name or trademark on the tape, the ticket, or the package.

3.3.4.3.2. Fusible Tape. As an option, double-faced fusible tape may be used for the left vent and for anchoring the hanging pockets.

3.3.4.3.3. Cross/Edge Tape. This twill cloth shall be bias cut for the back of the neck gorge of the fronts and for the fronts/front edges of the coats shall conform to Class 1 of A-A-52106 except that the requirements for non-fibrous material, and the cloth shall be cut across the width in strips of 5/8 inch (+ 1/16”) wide. The ends of the strips shall be abutted or overlapped and stitched with diagonal stitching.

The diagonal stitching shall be a minimum of 8 stitches per inch with a bight (throw of 1/8 to 3/16 inch).

The edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. The color of the tape may be natural or dyed..

#16 #45

The chrome finish of the buttons, the “short shank” and “long shank” are depicted here. Style numbers 16 and 45 are those of OGS Technologies, Waterbury Button CO.

3.3.4.4. Interlining, Front. The interlining for the front and side of the men’s coat, the facing, underarm, shoulder loops, bottom hem, pocket, back yoke of the women’s coat, the patch pockets, pocket flaps and the shoulder loops shall be Type V, Class 1, and Style B of MIL-C-44296 or equal. Fusing operations shall be in accordance with the procedures recommended by the producers of the fusible materials. The haircloth/interlining shall be dark in color, monofilament 520 denier, conforming to FED-STD-191 or equal.

The haircloth/interlining for front panels, shall have 30/2 ply cotton warp and haircloth filling, texture 60 warp x 50 filling per inch, shall weigh 6.75 ounces per square yard (minimum) and contain no sizing compounds. The haircloth shall contain no sizing compounds, and shall be dry-cleaned. The tailoring canvas for the front panels shall be in a dark cloth, cotton warp and worsted-spun-hair filling, conforming to Type I of Specification A-A-52105. The padding shall be, cotton, flannel or felt, unbleached, double napped, 4.0 to 5.5 ounces per square yard, texture 38 warp x 34 filling per inch (minimum), breaking strength 30 warp x 25 filling (minimum) and shrinkage shall not exceed 2.0 percent (maximum) in either warp or filling.

3.3.5. Collar. The collar shall be a notched collar. The wool material for the undercollar shall conform to A-A-50067, except that the colorfastness requirements to perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall be USAF Color Shade No. 1549. The material for the undercollar interlining shall be in conformance with A-A-50186.

3.3.6. Labels. Each garment shall have a combination contractor, and care label and a removable hard paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.3.6.1. Combination Contractor, Identification and Care Label. This label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, Classes 1, 2, 10 and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall show the following information:

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

The label shall be 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” in size and shall be sewn on the inside right front facing for the women’s coat and just outside the interior breast pocket.. The top of the women’s label shall be 8” from the bottom edge of coats and 1/4” from facing seam line. Label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing. Label shall be sewn on the right side of facing, approximately 15” down from shoulder seam. Label shall be sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.3.6.2. Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable hard-paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial hard-paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Sizes 38 regular and 12 regular shall be expressed as 38R and 12R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all coats, the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve.

3.3.7 Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-P-15064 for the women’s coat and Type I, Class 3 of MIL-P-15064 for the men’s coat. The curved edge, back half, shall be over edge stitched through all plies to prevent raveling, or needle punch shoulder pads can be used.

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

3.3.8. Sleeve Head Pads. The sleeve pads shall conform to Type IV of Specification MIL-P-15064 except the pad shall consist of one layer instead of two layers of cotton wadding.

3.3.9. Braids.

3.3.9.1. Sleeve Braid. The braid for each sleeve shall be mohair, flat and 1” wide. The color shall be “Midnight”; Cable No. 70090 or Pantone F&H color 19-40070. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187. Samples of braid are available upon request.

3.3.9.2. Hanger Braid. The material for the hanger braid shall be cotton, tubular braid conforming to Specification MIL-B-371F, Type III and shall have a breaking strength of not less than 75 pounds. The braid shall be 1/8" to 3/16" wide. The braid shall be black and shall have good colorfastness to crocking and wet/dry cleaning.

3.3.10. Threads. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the coats. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the coats will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble.

3.3.10.1. Thread, Silk. The silk thread for hand felling shall conform to Type III, Class 3, Ticket A or C, two-ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine felling, shall conform to Type I, three ply of A-A-50196.

The silk thread for machine felling/edge stitching shall be black and conform to Type 1, No. A, three-ply of A-A-50196. (Except that the requirement for extractable material shall not apply).

3.3.10.2. Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton, or Polyester Covered. The thread for seaming and stitching the coats shall conform to Tex 40 of A-A-50199. The colored threads shall be Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall have good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiration and light. The thread for topstitching shall be black.

3.3.10.3. Thread, Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton size No. 8 conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

3.3.10.4. Thread, Nylon. The nylon thread, if used for padding the lapel and bridle, shall conform to Type III, letter size, 00 of A-A-59826. The nylon thread used for hand felling shall conform to Type IV, Sizes A and C, two-ply.

3.3.11. Pocketing. The twill cloth for the pocketing, top of vent, the armholes, the shoulder and front interlining stays shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106 or equal, except that the non-fibrous materials, the seam efficiency and the colorfastness requirement shall not apply. The color shall be black and the minimum weight shall be 5 ounces per square yard.

3.4. Design. The design of the overcoat shall be as shown in this specification, with all components in accordance with USAF Academy master patterns or contractor’s patterns. The overcoat shall be five-button, double breasted, and fully lined. It shall have two lower hanging pockets with flaps. The back shall have a center vent, bi-swing at each side armhole, and a half belt stitched to the back at the waistline. The lapel shall be wide revers buttoned down, with the collar to conform in shape and dimension to the requirements of the master pattern and specification. The sleeves shall be trimmed with braid 3” from the hem line of the sleeve. Two shoulder-board loops shall be placed in the proper position on each shoulder so that the shoulder boards are in the center of the shoulder from front to back. The outside edge of shoulder boards shall be even with the outside edge of the shoulder seams. The buttonholes for front of shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, reinforced with gimp with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the purling finishing to the outside. The ends of the buttonholes shall be bartacked the width of the bar section, catching ends of thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to the underside of buttonhole. The pocket flaps shall have a straight lower edge with pointed corners, and the flaps shall be parallel with the edges of the overcoat at both the front and the bottom.

The buttonholes for front shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, reinforced with gimp with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the purling finishing to the outside. The ends of the buttonholes shall be bartacked the width of the bar section, catching ends of thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to the underside of buttonhole. The pocket flaps shall have a straight lower edge with pointed corners, and the flaps shall be parallel with the edges of the overcoat at both the front and the bottom. The bottom front buttons and buttonholes shall be in line with the top edge stitching of the pocket flaps. The front buttons shall be in horizontal and vertical alignment and taper towards each other down the front. All buttons shall be sewn onto the front with the “Star and Wings” upright. The buttons shall be placed so that the ends of collar shall close evenly on the front.

3.5. Patterns. One standard/master pattern shall be furnished upon request to the contractor by USAFA.

The contractor shall grade the pattern and develop the necessary working patterns.

3.5.1. Pattern Parts. The component parts of the garments shall be cut from materials as specified by the pattern.

3.5.2. Seam Allowances. The patterns provide for the following allowances: 1/4” for rever and front edge seams, 3/4” outlets on the side seams and center back seam, 1/2” outlet on front of undersleeve, 2 1/4” turn-up for sleeve, 2 1/4” turn-up for sleeve lining, 1 1/4” turn-up for bottom hem and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified herein.

3.5.3. Pattern Changes. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the contract’s last shipment being received by USAFA.

3.6. Construction. The garments shall be constructed in accordance with Table of Operations herein;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished coats.

3.6.1. Stitches and Seams. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM D6193. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished trouser/slacks. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trouser/slacks. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.6.1.1. Top and Edge Stitching. Dark blue polyester thread i.e. A-A-50199 shall be used for top stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout during the top and stitching operations.

3.6.1.2. Bartacks. Bartacks shall be of appropriate length for the task and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.2. Shade Marking. The component parts of the overcoat shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size through the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(2) Metal fastening devices used on the rayon lining.

(3) Sew-on shade tickets.

(4) Adhesive-type tickets which show discoloration and the adhesive mass which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished overcoat shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable-quality levels.

3.7.1. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of these garments shall conform to this specification.

3.7.2. Pressing. Pressing specified in Table III shall be performed by use of a heated pressing iron or machine.

3.8. Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The garments shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations, but the garments shall be made as complete open-tailored garments with convertible collar and revers.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

THREAD

Top Btm

1. Cutting of Materials

a. The material shall be spread face to face, i.e., the face of one ply of material shall be over and against the next ply below. The spread of cloth shall be not more than 80 single plies (40 over-coats high).

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths and care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched or full and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

c. The overcoats shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show size, shape, directional lines for cutting and also notches for proper assembling of all parts. Drill marks for positioning pockets and flaps are prohibited. Perforated paper markers are prohibited on the wool, elastique cloth.

Paper markers with a felt backing may be used.

d. All components of the overcoat shall be cut out of one piece of material.

e. Cut waist neck and underarm darts as marked on the pattern.

f. The pocket flaps, half belt and topcollar shall be cut across the width of the material.

g. The two undercollar pieces shall be cut on the bias

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

h. Thread marks or pattern marker shall be used for indicating the placement of the pockets, flaps, buttonholes, buttons and front darts.

2. Cut Rayon Lining.

a. The cloth rayon lining for the body of the overcoat and sleeves shall be cut in the direction of the warp and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished.

The sleeve linings may be cut from ends.

b. When sleeve and flap lining are cut from ends the parts shall match and the sleeves shall match each other.

c. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.

3. Cut Trimmings.

a. The canvas interlinings for coat fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

b. The haircloth for the extra chest piece shall be cut so that the warp is parallel with the break line. The haircloth for the extra shoulder piece shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

c. The twill cloth for the armhole, shoulder, front interlining stays, underarm seam at lower part of armhole shall be cut on the bias. The belt interlining, bi swing back stays, reinforcing buttons and buttonholes and pocket stays shall be cut in the direction of the warp. The twill cloth for taping the back of the neck shall be cut across the width of the cloth.

d. The two pieces of collar canvas interlining and the wigan for the sleeve

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

buttons shall be cut on the bias. The collar canvas interlining shall not be cut in one piece.

e. The flannel padding for the coat front shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

f. The material for the inside hanging lower pockets and change pocket shall be cut in the direction of the warp and the napped side shall be on the inside of the finished pockets.

g. The cloth, rayon lining for binding the top edge of the bottom turn up shall be on the inside of the finished pockets.

h. The cloth, rayon lining for binding the top edge of the bottom turn up shall be 1” wide and cut on the bias.

4. Replacement of Damaged Parts.

a. Replace at time of cutting any parts containing shade bars, holes or weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats and loose slubs likely to develop into a hole.

b. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns.

5. SHADE MARKING.

a. Shade mark all component parts of the overcoat except those cut from ends (see 3.9.2). Sleeve linings, whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be shade marked.

b. The numbering shall at times start from

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

the same position for all parts; for example, if the ply number 1 is used for the top ply, then the top and the next ply below facing the top ply must be number 1 for all parts.

c. Spread shoulder dart as indicated by patterns and seam wedge piece of canvas to interlining at shoulder dart with the edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on underneath side of interlining.

304 4-8 70/2 70/2

6. MAKE INTERLINING FOR FRONTS.

a. Seam together through twill cloth stay pieces overlapped edges of waist dart and lower edge of waist dart at back edge of interlining. The overlapped edges may be stitched together prior to stitching through twill cloth stay piece.

b. The armhole dart shall be open with a wedge piece of canvas stitched to the bottom side of dart with edges overlapping.

The wedge piece shall be on underneath side of interlining.

c. Spread shoulder dart on haircloth or monofilament chest piece of interlining and seam wedge piece of haircloth or monofilament to chest piece at shoulder dart with the edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on underside of haircloth or monofilament chest piece.

d. Spread shoulder dart on extra shoulder piece of haircloth and seam wedge piece of haircloth to shoulder piece at shoulder dart with the edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on topside of shoulder piece.

e. The armhole dart on haircloth chest piece of interlining shall be open with a wedge piece of haircloth stitched to bottom side of dart with edges overlapping.

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

Wedge piece shall be on topside of haircloth chest piece.

f. Position haircloth chest piece of interlining on front interlining in accordance with marks on patterns and seam chest piece on front and bottom edges to front interlining. Wedge pieces on the interlining and haircloth chest and shoulder pieces shall finish on the inside between the chest piece and the interlining.

g. Place additional row of zig zag stitching vertically through center of chest piece. 304 4-8 70/2 70/2

h. The canvas shall extend beyond the shoulder, armhole, and side of interlining.

Shoulder portion of interlining shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pad.

i. Mark Fronts. The size of coat front shall be legibly stamped with indelible black ink on the lower end of each left and right front in figures and letters not less than 1/2” in height. The size marking shall include AFA, the numerical designation followed by the letter S for Short, R for Regular, L for Long, and XL for Extra Long. An example of this marking is 38R.

7. MAKE FRONTS.

a. Sew the cut out front neck darts, starting at top of dart with 3/8” seam, and taper to nothing approximately 1” beyond the end of the dart. Sew front waist dart starting approximately 1” above the end of the dart and ending approximately 1” below the end of the dart. Join underarm dart with 3/8” seam.

301 SSa-1 12-14 A A

b. Sew a 1/4” tape on each front from front neck dart to within 1/2” of shoulder. 301 SSa-1 12-14 A A

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

c. Sew a strip of bias cut twill cloth on each shoulder starting at 1 1/2” away from neck to 1” away from armhole. Sew bias tape to armhole, starting 1” below shoulder and stopping 1” away from front armhole.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

d. Sew 1/4” tape to armhole starting approximately 2” above the front notch, holding tape firm at front. Continue sewing and hold tape easy at the base of armhole.

Continue sewing tape and hold taut at back of armhole, from armhole dart to side seam.

301 SSa-1 8-10 A A

8. PRESS FRONT DARTS AND

ARMHOLES.

a. Press front darts and underarm dart seams open solidly with a heated iron, holding front waist darts and underarm dart seams short and the front of the overcoat straight. Press armhole tapes flat.

b. Press fronts individually on a chest pressing machine keeping the fronts and front darts straight.

9. MARK FRONTS FOR POCKETS.

a. Mark fronts for position of lower pocket openings and pocket flaps as indicated by patterns.

b. Measure front edges of pocket mark to ascertain that the pockets are parallel with front edge of the overcoat.

10. MAKE FLAPS.

a. Seam lower pocket flaps, trim, turn, work out corners and single stitch edges 1/2” gage.

301 SSe-2 12 - 14 A A

b. Press flaps smooth and flat with hand

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

iron or pressing machine.

c. Mark flaps with shaper to assure proper size. The flaps shall conform to finished flap shapers.

d. Mark across top of flap and trim the excess fabric.

11. MAKE CHANGE POCKET

a. Stitch a facing of basic fabric to one end of pocket. 301 LSd-1 12 - 14 A A

b. Stitch a facing of rayon lining fabric to other end of pocket. 301 LSd-1 12 - 14 A A

c. Slit the top of cotton flannel pocketing material the width of the change pocket.

Turn under front edge of pocketing and top stitch front edge of change pocket 1/2”.

Stitch change pocket to front of pocketing 3/16” gage. Stitch back part of change pocket to back side of rayon facing material 1/16” gage. Stitch completely around change pocket to back side of pocketing material.

301 LSd-1 12 - 14 A A

d. The top edge of the change pocket is to be even with the joining seam of the pocketing and rayon-facing piece and measure 3 1/2” wide and 4” deep. The change pocket shall be on the inside of the right pocket of the overcoat only.

12. MAKE POCKETS AND STITCH ON

FLAPS.

a. The pocket portion that has been faced with basic fabric shall be stitched on the overcoat front to marks performed in Operation 9.

301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

b. The pocket flaps shall be stitched on the 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

overcoat to marks performed in Operation

9. Both the pockets and flaps shall be stitched through a twill cloth stay piece on the underside of overcoat. Twill cloth stay piece shall extend to and be caught in the side seam stitching.

c. Cut opening, between the pocket and flap stitching through the overcoat and twill cloth stay. Notch corners and turn pocket through opening.

d. Open seam and single stitch through seam forming a 3/8” lower welt. Tack corners of welt on the underside to pocket.

e. Turn the flap down with the flap seam up and stitch flap seam through the pocket and lining-facing piece.

f. Tack corners through both sides of pocket and seam around the pockets. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

g. Raise stitch the top of flap, 1/2” gage, forming a 1/2” welt with ends of the welt tacked on the outside.

h. Pocket shall be approximately 8” deep when finished.

i. Tack twill cloth stay piece to edge of side seam outlet 1/4” gage. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

13. PRESS FRONTS WITH POCKETS.

a. After pockets and flaps have been sewn on, the fronts shall be individually pressed on a breast pressing machine, keeping the front edge a straight line and holding the underarm seam short.

b. Press pockets and fronts individually on a breast machine prior to basting

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

interlining.

14. BASTE FRONTS TO INTERLINING.

a. Spread and smooth out fronts on the interlining, which shall extend beyond the gorge, shoulders and armhole.

b. Baste fronts to interlining with the first row of basting from below the shoulder point, through the center of the breast, following in front of the waist dart, down through pocket flap and pocket to bottom of overcoat.

Hopper or Hand

c. Tack front darts to the interlining.

Securely tack lower pocket stay to interlining at front.

Hopper or

3 - 4

d. Baste second row of basting across shoulder allowing room for setting shoulder pads; baste around armhole and down back edge of interlining to top edge of lower pocket flap inserting breast fullness.

Baste third row of basting along break line of rever and down front edge of interlining to bottom of overcoat. Baste a fourth row of basting vertically in between the first and third rows of basting and 1” in front of pocket edge.

301 Hopper

e. Trim away excess canvas around shoulder and armhole. Insert shoulder pad between canvas and flannel in proper position and securely basted to interlining.

15. PRESS FRONTS AND INTERLINING.

Under press the fronts individually on right and left steam overcoat chest pressing machine. The front edge of the forepart shall be straight. Press revers on a steam jumper machine.

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

16. MAKE HALF BELT.

a. Twill cloth shall be basted to belt as it is folded, catching twill cloth and belt in the fold.

101 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

b. Raw edges of belt shall be abutted on the underside and basted to hold. Belt shall be pressed and attached to the overcoat.

c. Press belt smooth and flat. Half belt to finish 2 1/8” (+ 1/8”) wide after pressing.

Note: Width of finished belt shall be 2 1/8” +1/8” wide.

17. MAKE BACK.

a. Stitch a 1/4” tape along the outside crease edge of the bi-swing. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

b. Stitch a 1/4” tape to back armhole from the side seam to within 3/4” of the shoulder. Hold tape taut; approximately 3/8” “take-up” shall occur.

c. Form bi-swing by folding outside edge of bi-swing and stitch with 1/2” gage. Fold and stitch inside edge of bi-swing and stitch with 1/8” gage.

d. Fold bi-swing in place according to notches and top stitch from shoulder down 2 1/2” to 3” on top of bi-swing stitch. Stitch lower edge of bi-swing starting at 2 1/2” above bi-swing fold and stitch down and across to end of side seam.

e. Seam a 2” wide strip of twill cloth back of crease edge of left vent. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

f. Fold back edge of right vent 1/2” and stitch down with 1/4” gage stitch. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

g. Join back seam with 3/4” seam as indicated by notches. Stitch down to 3/8” below top of vent and stitch across top of vent.

h. Seam 5/8” wide strip of cross cut twill cloth tape across top of neck at back extending from shoulder seam to shoulder seam across center seam.

i. Fold right vent according to notch and baste vent.

j. Baste half belt in proper position and stitch belt through and across back with 1/2” gage at top and bottom edges of the belt.

k. Notch right back seam at vent and press seam open. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

l. Place the whole armhole, front and back, on a pressing buck and press smooth and solid holding armhole short. Press the belt and center vent smooth.

18. JOIN LINING TO BACK.

a. Join back seam of lining from the neck area to the top of the vent opening. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

b. Join left vent lining to left vent with 3/8” seam. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

c. Fold edge of right lining and place on top of right vent and stitch lining to vent 1/8” stitch.

d. Sew Velcro and pile to vent. Sew a 3/4” x 3/4” strip of Velcro to left vent, catching through the folded vent and the twill cloth interlining. The Velcro shall be placed in

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

the center of the folded vent approximately 8” below the top stitching of the vent. The pile on the right vent shall be sewn through the right vent and lining and it shall correspond with the Velcro when the vent assembly is completed.

e. In sewing the lining to the vent a 1” pleat is required to form a bellows at the bottom turn up of the overcoat.

f. Form a 1” pleat and baste lining on center seam.

g. Systemize the lining on back and place a second basting starting from center seam along the shoulder seam around the armhole and continue basting down to the edge bottom of the coat. This basting shall be placed on both sides of the back and far enough away from the shoulder and side seams so that it shall not interfere with the joining of side seams.

h. Top stitch left vent from top of vent to bottom of back with 1 3/4” + 1/8” stitch. 301 SSa-1 12 - 14 A A

i. Form a diagonal box stitch at the top of the vent 1/2” side catching through the right and left vent and through the lining.

19. JOIN SIDE SEAMS.

a. Join side seams with a 3/4” seam allowance catching ends of half belt in the stitching.

b. Press the side seams open and flat.

Hold the waistline short.

20. MEASURE COAT LENGTH AND

SHAPE THE REVERS (LAPELS) AND

BOTTOM.

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

a. Measure coat to exact length.

b. Place rever shaper on revers, mark and shape revers, fronts and bottom of coat.

The left vent should be marked 1/8” longer than the right vent.

c. When marking front of pocket check to see that the front line of the pocket flaps are parallel to the front edge.

d. Trim canvas from rever and front edges 1/4” from edge.

e. Back edge of interlining at bottom may be cut diagonally so that the bottom edge is not caught in the tape blind stitching across bottom.

21. BIND THE BOTTOM.

Bind the bottom turn-up edge of the overcoat with a 1” bias cut rayon. 301 Bsb-1 12 - 14 A

22. MAKE LININGS.

a. Join underarm darts. 301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A

b. Join front lining to facing, with proper fullness distributed in chest area, and ease lining to lower part of facing.

301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

c. Sew contractor’s label on the right side of facing, approximately 10” down from shoulder seam. Sew label on all four sides.

301 Lsd-1 12 - 14 A A

d. Press the facing and front dart toward side seam.

23. BASTE FACINGS TO OVERCOAT.

a. Match and fit the completed lining to the

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

b. Baste facing to overcoat, working in fullness over the chest area. The facing along the edges shall be smooth with the facing being held taut across the revers and bottom of front.

Hand or machine

1” to 2” long

24. JOIN FACINGS AND FRONTS WITH

TAPE.

a. Join the facing and fronts together 1/4” from the rever notch across top of rever, down to bottom corner of the front and across bottom edges of overcoat to the vent with a 5/8” wide stay tape positioned on the interlining side of fronts and caught in the stitching.

b. The 5/8” tape shall extend from rever notch across the top of rever, down front and across bottom of edges of overcoat to the vent. Sew tape with normal tension along top and front edges of rever and with slight tension on front edge of overcoat.

301 Ssd-1 12 - 14 A A

c. Fell inside edge of tape to overcoat front interlining. 103

Ssm-1 or

4 - 6 O A

d. Press fronts and bottom edges solid and flat; pull out facing basting. Press front edges open starting at top of the rever and press down to the bottom of the coat.

e. Trim the excess material around the rever and bottom of the coat and turn edges.

25 BASTE EDGES. Work out the rever points and the bottom corners of the fronts.

Baste the edges, revers and bottom. Left vent to be 1/8” longer than right vent.

Edges and revers to be properly worked or

Hand Ssa-1 4 - 6

2 - 4 Hopper

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

out. The edge seam of the revers and front shall be worked to the inside; the edge seam shall not be exposed to the front of the overcoat.

26 SECOND BASTING OF FACINGS.

a. Place second basting along the front and rever approximately 1” away from the edge.

or

Hand

2 - 4

b. Starting at the front neck dart baste down the approximate break line of the front.

or

Hand

c. Place fullness over the chest area of the coat and baste facing.

or

Hand

d. Fell the back edge of the facings to the interlining with blind stitching from the bound edge of the bottom turn up to not more than 3” below the shoulder edge.

103 Efc-1 6 - 8 O O

27 JOIN LINING.

a. Join side seam of front lining to side seam of back lining with ¾” seam. 301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

b. Press seam flat with back folded over front.

28 BASTE LINING.

a. Smooth out lining.

b. Baste pleats at armhole. The pleats shall be basted lengthwise/vertical along the facing. The pleats shall be one inch deep, approximately eight inches long starting at the shoulder seam, and 1 1/2 inches in from the rever facing. Continue basting around armhold toward side seam;

Hand machine

Hopper

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

smooth out lining, work in proper fullness of lining. Continue basting along side seam to approximately 8” from bottom of overcoat. Continue basting back to the front facing. Baste lining on right front in same manner, starting at the bottom front facing to side seam to around armhole.

c. Allowing for 1” bellow turn up of lining at bottom turn up, trim away excess lining.

d. Tuck in the trimmed raw edge of lining into the bottom turn up and place basting along edge of seam binding, catching the lining.

Hand

e. Position the bellows turn up and baste in place along the bottom turn up of the overcoat.

Hand

f. Turn coat and trim excess lining and facing around neck, shoulders, armhold, and back.

29 FELL LINING. Blind stitch lining on the bottom; stitches shall not show through to the outside of the overcoat.

301 Efc-1 4 - 6 O O

30 MAKE SHOULDER BOARD LOOPS.

a. Make shoulder board loops. A strip of elastique shall be folded to center with the edges overlapped and double stitched 3/16” to 1/4” gage with a covering stitch on the underside. Loops shall finish 3/8” wide.

406 Efh-1 12 - 14 Hopper A A

b. Cut four loops 1 7/8” long for each coat.

c. Front end of loops shall be turned under prior to stitching onto coat. Back end of loops shall be caught in shoulder seam stitching.

d. First loops on each shoulder shall finish 301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

1 3/8” long and be located 3/4” to 1” up from armhole seam. Opening of first loops shall be 1 1/4”.

e Second loops on each shoulder shall finish 1 1/8” long parallel with first loop and be 2 3/4” up from first loop but not more than 3 3/4” up from armhole seam.

Opening of second loops shall be 1”.

NOTE: Measurement for placement of shoulder loops shall be taken along the shoulder seam.

31. JOIN SHOULDERS.

Join shoulder seams with a 3/8” seam allowance working in fullness on the back between notches. Catch ends of shoulder board loops in the stitching. Position folded edge of bi-swing to finish even with edge of armhole at shoulder seam

301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 Hopper A A

32. PRESS SHOULDER SEAMS.

a. Press seam open with a heated iron or pressing machine over suitable block, holding shoulder short and to the front.

b. Press ends of shoulder board loops toward the front.

33. BASTE PART OF SHOULDER. Baste the upper Hand portion of shoulders and across the back by hand.

34. MAKE THE UNDERCOLLAR.

a. Join undercollar stand to undercollar matching the notches.

b. Place edge of undercollar stand interlining along and below the collar seam, and stitch interlining to under collar stand.

The interlining shall be stitched to the

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

undercollar stand with at least 5 rows of stitching approximately 1/4” apart.

c. Turn the seam toward undercollar stand, place undercollar interlining on top of seam and stitch interlining catching through the lap seam and undercollar stand.

301 Ssa-1 12 - 14

d. Pad interlining to undercollar with at least nine to ten rows of blind stitching. 301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

e. Press collar smooth, press break line, shape collar by stretching over the shoulder area as required.

f. Place properly sized shaper on the collar and mark the collar. Shape collar by cutting away the excess material.

NOTE: Using dies conforming to required shape and dimension may perform the collar shaping operation.

g. Trim 3/16” of canvas interlining at the collar stand.

35. MAKE THE TOP COLLAR.

a. Sew top collar stand to top collar with 1/4” seam matching the notches. Open seam and stitch down both sides of seam with stitch 1/16” in from edge.

b. Press and shape top collar, stretch over shoulder area as required.

c. Baste undercollar to top collar putting fullness over shoulder and at the collar points.

Hand or

d. Sew undercollar to top collar with 1/4” seam. Sew ends and top edges of collar, making sure corners are slightly rounded.

or

Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

e. Remove basting and press collar seam open.

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

f. Baste along edge of collar working top collar edge beyond undercollar. Place another row of basting one inch away from edge; work in fullness over shoulders and points of collar.

Hand or

Machine

g. Press completed collar.

h. Baste along edge of collar working top collar edge beyond undercollar. Place another row of basting one inch away from edge, work in fullness over shoulders and points of collar.

Hand or

i. Press completed collar.

j. Trim away excess top collar at the bottom edge of collar.

36. ATTACH COLLAR TO OVERCOAT.

a. Mark the collar stand and the gorge of the overcoat.

b. Join the top collar to facing, starting at the front neck dart and continue sewing to the end of the facing. Stop and join other end of collar to facing in the same manner.

c. Notch facing 5” in from the edge of collar. Starting from the right side, open seam and tack seam to the front and interlining. Continue sewing collar across the shoulders and across the neck to the left side of the collar, catching the hangar in this operation.

301 Ssa-1 12 - 14 A A

d. Baste undercollar to overcoat along the marking, matching center notch to back center seam, and placing required fullness over the shoulder area.

Hand 2 - 4

e. Hand tack the corners of the collar before edge stitching. Hand

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

Stitch the edges, revers, collar and bottom with a 1/2” gage, stopping at the end of the facing.

301 Sse-1 12 - 14

37. MAKE BUTTONHOLES ON FRONT

a. Mark the location of 5 horizontal buttonholes on the appropriate front as indicated by the patterns. The bottom buttonhole shall be approximately in line with the pocket opening. The top buttonhole shall be 1 1/4” below top edge of left rever front. The remaining buttonholes shall be equally spaced between the top and bottom buttonholes.

b. The two buttonholes on the right front shall correspond with the top and bottom buttonhole on the left front. Vice versa for the women’s product.

c. Make a “cut first”, horizontal, eyelet end, square bar type buttonhole at each of the marks on the left and right fronts to fit a 36-line button worked over gimp. The inside edge of the eyelet shall be 7/8” from the front edge of the overcoat.

Button hole

85 - 90 per button-hole, not including bartack

F B

d. The bartack shall catch thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to underside.

The bartacking shall be a separate operation from buttonhole making. The purling shall finish on the outside of the fronts.

e. Securely bartack the ends of each buttonhole and trim the ends of the gimp.

Note: Black colored thread shall be used for all buttonholes and buttonhole bartacking operation.

Bartack per tack

38. PRESS EDGES. Press the edges of the collar, revers and front and bottom turn up of the overcoat on an edge-pressing

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

machine. Pressing of edges, bottom and collar shall be a firm and solid pressing and the edges and bottom shall be pressed short.

39 MAKE SLEEVES.

a. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve distributing fullness between notches with a 3/8” seam allowance on top sleeve and 1/2” outlet on front of undersleeve.

b. Press forearm seam open and flat by laying undersleeve smooth on a pressing table, keeping the top sleeve short between the notches. Maintain the curvature of the undersleeve during this pressing operation.

c. Establish the finished sleeve length and mark bottom turn up. Mark location of lower edge of the sleeve braid, which shall be 3” + 1/8” above the turn up mark.

d. Position the sleeve on top of the sleeve wigan interlining. The wigan interlining shall extend from the sleeve braid to 1” below the bottom sleeve turn up.

e. Sew on braid to sleeve on top and lower edges with a 1/16” gage. Lower edge of the stitching shall catch the wigan interlining.

f. Fold bottom turn up of sleeve and press.

Press sleeve braid flat.

g. Join the back arm seam of the sleeves with a 3/8” seam allowance catching wigan and braid in the seam. The braid shall join evenly at the back arm seam in the finished sleeve.

h. Press back arm seam by placing the

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER

sleeve on a curved pressing stand…