Atch_3_-_USAFA_Specification_2010.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION 2010

SKIRTS, SERVICE, CADET

14 APRIL 2016

FA7000-16-T-0075

Attachment 3

USAFA CU 2010

14 APR 2016

SKIRTS, SERVICE, CADET

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for service skirts worn by cadets at the United States Air Force Academy.

1.2. Classification. The garments shall be of one type in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I. SCHEDULE OF SIZES & LENGTHS

Women’s Extra Short 0 thru 26 Short 0 thru 26 Medium Regular 0 thru 26 Regular 0 thru 26 Medium Long 0 thru 26 Long 0 thru 26 Extra Long 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Long 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Extra Long 0 thru 26

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government Documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton/or Polyester Covered A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon A-A-52108 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon A-A-55634 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods V-T-285 Thread, Polyester V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

MILITARY

MIL-B-371 Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusible MIL-T-43566 Tape, Textile, Cotton or Polyester, General Purpose, Natural or in Colors MIL-DTL-21115 Cloth, Tropical Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

STANDARDS

Military

MIL-STD 129N Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches, and Seams

ANSI

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 American National Standard, Sampling Procedures and Tables For Inspection

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service) https://assistca.dla.mil/

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1. Samples. Samples may be furnished by the government only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished trouser and slack in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification along with Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations.

Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1. Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for the service coat shall be 10 -ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, USAFA blue shade 540, conforming to MIL-DTL-21115. The material for the pocket flap linings shall conform to Type III of MIL-DTL-21115. The government shall be responsible for sponging the fabric so that the maximum shrinkage after sponging shall be no more than 3% in either the warp or the filling direction.

3.3.2 Pocketing and Lining. The material for the waistband lining shall conform to class I of MIL-C-43718, except that the color of the material shall be blue to match the outer shell. The waistband lining shall incorporate non-slip tape.

3.3.3. Buttons, Braid & Fasteners

3.3.3.1. Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 20 or 21, 24 line of V-B-871 and the color shall be black or closely match the basic fabric.

3.3.3.2. Slide Fastener. The slide fastener shall conform to A-A-55634 and shall be brass, type 1, style 4, size 2 and short tab pull type or equal. The tape shall be woven from 100 percent polyester or from blends of nylon and cotton, polyester and cotton, or polyester and shall have a minimum width (each side) of 3/8”. The completed slide fastener shall not shrink more that 2% when tested as specified in. A four-part assembly, brass #3 size brass metal stop shall be used at the top. The tape shall include an automatic or cam lock. The color of the tape shall be USAFA Shade Blue 540 or black. The dyed tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good” fastness to laundering and wet dry-cleaning. YKK 45u zipper is known to meet this specification.

3.3.4. Interlining/Interfacing. The interlining used for these trouser/slacks shall be as specified or equal.

3.3.4.1. Waistband Interlining. The material for the waistband interlining shall be either a bleached or unbleached cotton-polyester cloth, that contains not less than 45 Percent polyester fiber or a cotton buckram cloth that has a plain weave. The cotton buckram cloth shall have a minimum of 48 ends in the warp, shall have a minimum of 40 picks in the filling, and shall weigh a minimum of 3.5 ounces per square yard or a non-woven fusible complying with MIL-C-44296 may be used.

3. 5. 2 Waistband Interlining. Interlining for waistband shall be black and shall conform to Class 1 of A-A- 52106 or to Type I of A-A-50186 or fusible fabric.

3.3.4.2. Waistband Stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to MIL-C-43920.

3.3.4.3. Construction Tapes. All construction tapes shall be of good commercial quality for the purposes intended

3.3.4.3.1. Stay Tape. The tape shall be cotton, unbleached, herringbone twill weave and fully shrunk, conforming to type 1, class 1 of 2 of Commercial Item Description A-A-52071. It shall be 1/4" for staying seams. The tape shall be preshrunk so that it will not shrink more than 2.0 percent. The preshrinking process shall not be identified by name or trademark on the tape, the ticket, or the package.

3.3.4.3.2. Tape, Waistband, Non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white color, with two rows of cloroprence or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item.

3.3.4.3.3. Cross/Edge Tape (Hem). The tape used to finish the bottom of the skirt shall be 1/2” +/-1/16” wide, plain weave of continuous filament polyester yarn. It shall conform to type I, class 3 of MIL-T-43566 in closely matching blue or black. The tape shall weigh not less than 5.0 ounces per gross yard and shall contain not less than 66 ends. The tape shall show good fastness to the wet-dry cleaning and crocking when tested. This polyester tape shall be provided by the contractor in rolls and in sufficient quantities to satisfy the hemming requirement of the skirts being procured. The tape shall be forwarded to the Academy when the first shipment of skirts is made.

3.3.5. Labels. Each trouser/slack shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.3.5.1. Combination Contractor Identification and Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, classes 1, 2, 10, and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL- 32075. Each trouser/slack shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool products Labeling Act of 1939.

The wool contents must be included in the combination contractor and identification label. The label shall show the following information:

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

The label shall be approximately 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” in size and shall be sewn on the inside of the right back pocket. The label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.3.5.2. Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable hard-paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial hard-paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Sizes 38 regular and 12 regular shall be expressed as 38R and 12R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all skirts, the label shall be tacked to the waistband of the left rear quarter.

3.3.6. Thread. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the garments. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the garments will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent, in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble.

3.3.6.1 Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton – or Polyester-Covered. The cotton or polyester-covered polyester core thread for general stitching of the skirt shall be Ticket #50 and #70, 2 or 3 ply. The thread for sewing of the buttons shall be Ticket #30, 2 ply. All threads shall conform to A-A-50199. The color shall be DOD thread shade navy blue AT, Cable No. 66060.

3.3.6.2. Colorfastness. All dyed thread shall show colorfastness to light and wet drycleaning, equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to light and wet drycleaning.

3.3.6.3. Thread for Reinforcing Buttonholes (Gimp). The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, Size No. 8 of A-A-50198 and shall be DOD Thread Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 (see DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968).

The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. If a standard sample is not available, the thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have good colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning.

3.3.7. Hanger Loop Braid. The material for the hanger loop shall conform to Type IX, Class 1, of MIL-B-

371. The color shall match the basic material and shall show “good” fastness to crocking and wet dry cleaning. The hanger loops may be made from the lining tape.

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

3.4. Design. The skirt is fully lined straight skirt, containing five gores, three panels at front and two panels at back, and an inside change pocket. The back panel shall have a dart on each side. There shall be a slide fastener closure on the left side, and the waistband shall be finished with two buttons and buttonholes placed according to the pattern. The skirt shall be fully lined matching the shell gores design.

3.5. Patterns. One standard/master pattern shall be furnished upon request to the contractor by USAFA.

The contractor shall grade the pattern and develop the necessary working patterns.

3.5.1. Pattern Parts. The component parts of the trousers/slacks shall be cut from materials as specified by the pattern.

3.5.2. Seam Allowances. During the grading process, the contractor shall grade to allow a seam allowances. Unless otherwise indicated, the master pattern will provide 1-1/4” seam allowance for the center back seam (2 1/2” total seam allowance), 3/4” seam allowance for the side and front seams (1 1/2” total seam allowance) and 3/8” seam allowance for the waistband.

3.5.3. Pattern Changes. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the contract’s last shipment being received by USAFA.

3.6. Construction. The garments shall be constructed in accordance with Table of Operations herein;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished garments. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure.

3.6.1 Stitches & Seams. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM D6193. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished trouser/slacks. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trouser/slacks. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.6.1.1. Top and Edge Stitching. Dark blue polyester thread i.e. A-A-50199 shall be used for top stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout during the top and stitching operations

3.6.1.2. Bartacks. Bartacks shall be of appropriate length for the task and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.1.3. Shade Markings. The component parts of the trouser/slack shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except the following:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(2) No metal fastening devices shall be used on the lining.

(3) Sew-on shade tickets.

(4) Adhesive-type tickets which result in discoloration of the fabric, or leaves adhesive on fabric upon removal of tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside/visible parts of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.6.1.4. Shade Matching. The shade of the finished slack shall match the shade of the standard sample, USAFA Blue shade 540.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished garments shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification, or comparable construction. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable Acceptable Quality Levels.

3.7.1. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of these garments shall conform to this specification.

3.7.2 Pressing. Unless otherwise specified herein, all pressing shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine. Pressing shall not damage the garments.

3.8. Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The garments shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations, but the garments shall be made as complete open-tailored garments.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

1. CUTTING.

a. Spread the material without tension so that the cut parts from the top and bottom plies will match the pattern.

b. Cut the skirts in strict accordance with the work patterns, which show directional lines, size and notches for assembly of parts.

Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction of the material.

c. Cut all basic parts of the skirt out of the same piece of material.

d. Cut the braid or tape for hanger loops

(two each) of sufficient length to measure 1 1/2” + 1/4” long (folded) in the finished skirt (see Operation 8) e Cut the lining in strict accordance with the patterns. The directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction of the lining material.

f Cut cotton silesia for the waistband interlining. The silesia shall be cut on a bias, and it shall be the same dimension as the waistband. Option: Interlining may be fused to waistband.

Silesia: A lightweight, smoothly finished twilled fabric cotton for garment interlinings.

2. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED PARTS.

Care should be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages are replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

3. SHADE AND SIZE MARKING.

All the component parts cut from the basic material must have an ISO-BAR identification ticket to insure a uniform shade and size of the skirt. Perforated paper markers and plain paper markers shall not be used on the basic fabric. Drill marking for

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread positioning of back dart shall not be used.

4. SEW THE BACK DARTS.

a. Fold darts according to marks as indicated on pattern and sew from top to nothing ending 3/4” to 1” below thread mark.

b. Press darts flat with inside folded edge toward center back seam, on finished skirt.

5. MAKE FRONT AND BACKS.

a. Join back center seam; size of seam shall be according to marks on pattern. 301 SSa-1 10-14 50 3

b. Join side body front panel to front. Size of seam taken shall be according to marks on pattern, and as described in the seam allowance.

c. Pink and stitch seams in one operation maintaining seam allowance. (Depth of pinking shall be 1/8” to 3/16”.) May also be serged.

301 SSa-1 10-14 50/3 50/3

d. Press seams open. The seams shall be held short and not stretched during pressing operation.

6. JOIN SIDE SEAMS.

a. The side seams shall be joined from top to bottom of the skirt. The left side seam shall be joined from the notch to the bottom of the skirt, leaving an opening to accommodate the slide fastener closure.

301 SSa-1 10-14 50/3 50/3

b. Press seams open.

NOTE: The specified seam allowances shall be maintained on all joining operations.

All seams shall be smooth; all notches much match. The top and bottom of the component parts shall be even. The proper stitch tension and the specified stitch per inch shall be maintained.

7. MAKE PLACKET.

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

Finished Appearance: The placket shall be smooth and flat. The stops at top of fastener shall not be more than 1/2” below waistband on the finished skirt. The front skirt shall completely cover the slide fastener when slide fastener is closed, and the front skirt shall overlap the back skirt slightly at the bottom of placket without pleats or puckers on the outside. The stitching shall not interfere with the operation of the slider. The bottom stop on slide fastener shall be positioned not more than 1/4” above or below the top end of side seam.

a. The raw edges of the placket and facing shall be either pinked or serged, same as seams on skirt.

b. Fold the placket piece in half lengthwise.

The lining shall be sewn to the basic material, then turned and stitched. Place slide fastener on placket with the center of the closed chain 3/4” to 7/8” from folded edge and stitch fastener tape to placket 1/8” from edge of chain along the side nearest to the raw edge of placket.

301 SSa-1 10-14 50 3

c. Pink side and bottom edge of placket piece may be narrowed to finish. 50 3

d. Place placket (chain side down) on back of skirt with the center of the closed chain 1/8” to 3/16” to the front of the side seam and stitch placket to opening, following the curve of the hip. Do not stretch fabric.

301 10-14 50 3

e. Turn placket to its finished position and stitch 1/16” to 1/8” from folded edge of skirt through fastener tape and placket piece.

301 Lsah-1 10-14 50 3

f. Stitch front half of fastener tape to front raw edge of skirt opening, following curve of hip. Do not stretch fabric.

301 Ssbd-1 10-14 50 3

g. Fold front opening in line with side seam and stitch to fastener tape, forming a welt 1/2” to 5/8” wide; stitch across the bottom of welt to the side seam, catching the placket and ends of fastener tapes in the stitching.

The stitching shall be 1/8” to 1/4” from the

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom chain, and the welt shall cover the slide fastener and the stitching along back edge when fastener is closed.

OR

h. Enclose raw edge side into lining and topstitch for cleaner finish. 50 3

i. Place slide fastener on placket with the center of the closed chain 3/4” to 7/8” from folded edge. Stitch fastener tape to placket 1/8” from edge of chain along the side nearest to the serged edge of placket.

j. At side opening, stitch front of lining to front of skirt 1/2” from edge. Stitch back of lining to back of skirt 1/2” from edge. Turn skirt and topstitch lining at opening on front and back 1/16” from seam.

k. Position lining at the top of the skirt, on the inside with the skirt seams directly on top of the lining seams. Stitch lining to top of skirt 1/4” from top raw edge.

301 8-10 50 3

l. Place placket (chain side up) under back of skirt with the folded edge of opening 1/16” from metal edge and topstitch, starting from top and stopping at end of opening, 1/16” from folded edge, following the curve of the hip. Do not stretch fabric.

301 12-14 50 3

m. Stitch front of skirt to front half of fastener tape at center of tape, forming a welt 1/2” to 5/8” wide. The metal edge of the slide fastener shall be 1/4” to 3/8” from edge of opening. Stitch across the bottom of welt to the side seam, catching the placket and ends of fastener tape in the stitching.

Stitching shall be 1/8” to 1/4” from the bottom of metal chain, and the welt shall cover the slide fastener and the stitching along the back edge when fastener is closed.

301 12-14 50 3

8. MAKE HANGER LOOP STRIPPING

(Optional).

Fold hem tape in half lengthwise and stitch 301 Efu-1(a) 10-14 50 3

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread edges together.

9. INSIDE CHANGE POCKET.

a. From the tropical fabric, cut one piece 11” long, 4 3/4” wide with a 1/4” seam allowance.

b. Make a welt 1 1/2” wide, including a seam allowance of 1/4” for turn-under.

c. Fold the fabric 6 1/2”; the fold shall be 2

1/2” above the pocket opening.

d. Stitch around the pocket, reverse the pocket and press.

f. The pocket shall be located in the middle of the side gore on the right side.

10. MAKE SKIRT LINING DARTS.

a. Fold the darts as indicated by the marks on the patterns. Stitch the darts, tapering to terminal point 3/4” below the thread marker.

301 Osf-1 10-14 50 3

b. Press the back dart toward the center back.

11. MAKE LINING FRONTS AND BACKS.

a. Stitch the lining for the side fronts to the lining for the center front. Stitch the lining for the side backs to the lining for the center back.

301 Ssa-1 10-14 50 3

b. Pink the seams, maintaining the specified seam allowance.

c. In lieu of No. 11a and 11b, seam and pink the seams in one operation, maintaining the seam allowance.

d. Pink or serge the bottom edge of the skirt lining.

12. JOINT FRONT LINING TO BACK LINING.

a. Stitch the front lining to the back lining, leaving a side opening for the placket on the left side, maintaining the specified seam

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom allowance.

b. Pink the edges of the seam allowances and the edges of the left side opening.

c. In lieu of No. 12a and 12b, seam and pink the edges of the seam allowance in one operation and pink the edges of the left side opening seam allowances, maintaining the specified seam allowance.

13. ATTACH LINING TO SKIRT.

a. Join lining to skirt at left side placket opening. Place skirt flat with wrong side of fabric up. Place wrong side of lining on top of skirt with right side of lining facing up.

50 3

b. Pick up seam allowance of front panel lining and skirt and join together by starting at top of skirt and stopping at the end of the placket opening, starting with 1/2” seam and gradually increase to approximately 3/4” seam at end of opening.

c. Pick up seam allowance of back panel of lining and skirt and join together by starting at the end of the placket opening and ending at the top of the skirt, starting with seam size of approximately 3/4” and reducing to 1/2” seam.

d. Top stitch lining with 1/16” stitch, catching the lining through the seam allowance. 301 SSa-1 10-14 50 3

e. Adjust lining in skirt and stitch lining to skirt at the waistline, with 1/4” seam. The panel seams of the lining shall be in line with the panel seams of the skirt.

NOTE: the finished skirt lining shall be

2 1/2 (+ 1/4) inches above finished skirt outer shell.

14 ATTACH WAISTBAND, LABELS AND

HANGER LOOPS

Finished Appearance: The waistband width shall be uniform and the pointed end shall be on the front. The hanger loops shall be

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom positioned over the right side seam and directly back of placket. The labels shall be positioned side by side on center of front with the size label on the left side (when skirt is worn) and the combination label shall be on the right side (when the skirt is worn).

The stitching shall not be through the label printing.

a. Stitch waistband to inside top of skirt catching hanger loops and labels in the stitching, matching notches and easing in the fullness of front skirt evenly.

301 Bsg-2(a) 10-14 50 3

b. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise;

seam the straight end and the pointed end.

Trim, turn to outside and work out corners and point.

301 Sse-2(a) 10-14 50 3

OR

c. As an alternate method, the pointed and straight end of waistband may be seamed, trimmed, and turned prior to setting waistband to skirt.

d. Turn under free edge of waistband and edge stitch to skirt on outside; continue edge stitching around ends and along top of waistband. The edge stitching shall be 1/16” gauge.

Bsg-2(b)

Sse-2(b)

Osf-1

10-14 50 3

15. MAKE BUTTONHOLES.

Finished Appearance: The buttonholes shall be cut-first or cut-after, eyelet-end-taper-bar or square-bar type. The inside edge of eyelet shall be 1/2” from pointed end and 3/8” to 5/8” from straight end. The buttonholes shall be centered (1/4” off center tolerance) on waistband.

a. Make 5/8” to 3/4” finished cut length buttonhole, worked over gimp, on each end of waistband with the purling on the outside of the finished waistband at the pointed end and on the underside at the straight end.

The bar end shall have a minimum of four tacking stitches not counting the cross-over stitch.

Button

50,56 not including tack per buttonhole

Type

Seam and Stitching

Type Stitches per inch

Thread

b. When a square-bar type of buttonhole is used, it shall be bar-tacked in a separate operation.

Bar-tack 21 per 50 3

16. ATTACH BUTTONS.

a. Mark or gauge position for the buttons on the waistband to correspond with buttonholes.

b. Sew the buttons on marks indicated at ends of waistband as follows:

(1) Sew button on back (straight) and through all plies.

101 or

301 14-16 per button 50 3

(2) Sew button on front (pointed) end through under-ply and reinforcement piece on skirt. When buttons are sewn by hand, the sewing shall be tacked off with two stitches and the ends of the thread shall be hidden.

Hand or (See Fig 2)

6 per button double thread

17. CLEAN SKIRT.

Trim thread-ends and remove all loose threads, spots, stains and shade tickets.

18. PRESS SKIRT.

a. Press the entire skirt.

b. Examine skirt; remove gloss marks, wrinkles, and impressions from thread, tickets or seams.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Inspection Responsibility. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the government. The Cadet Uniform Section (10LRS/LGRCU) reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that the finished product conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.2. Responsibility for Dimensional Requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met.

When the dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection may be made at any point or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.3. Responsibility for Supplier Certificates of Compliance. Certificates of component compliance with the Federal Acquisition Regulations must be submitted to the Government. This shall be done in the first article process.

4.2. Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First Article Inspection

2. Quality Conformance/End Item Inspection

4.3. First Article Inspection. The first article shall be inspected as specified in this document for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.4. Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.5. Inspection Quality Conformance/ End Item. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The end item shall be examined for defects. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during this examination shall be classified in accordance with Table V and Table VI. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously, and as a minor defect A when affecting appearance or serviceability, but not seriously. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for major and minor A combined, and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for minor B. The acceptable quality level for major and minor A combined shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units for major defects, 15 defects per 100 units for major and minor A defects combined, and 40 defects per 100 units for totals (major and minor A and B combined).

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS AQL

AQL LEVEL INSPECTION LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II Major, Minor A And 40.0 II Minor B (combined)

**One Class 4.0 S-3

*Table 1 shows the Acceptable Quality Levels and Inspection Levels for defects listed in General and Detailed Defects Table II.

**Used for Special Inspection Levels such as finished measurements

4. 6. Finished Measurements: Any measurement deviating from the nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III will be scored as a size-measurement defect.

TABLE III: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS & TOLERANCES IN INCHES, WOMEN’S SLACKS

Size ½ Waist 1/

½ Seat

2/ ½ Bottom

3/

Backlength 4/

XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

Tolerance + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½ + ½

0 12 1/2 18 1/2 19 1/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 1 12 3/4 18 7/8 19 5/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 2 13 19 1/4 20 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 3 13 1/4 19 5/8 20 3/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 4 13 1/2 20 20 3/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 5 13 3/4 20 3/8 21 1/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 6 14 20 3/4 21 1/2 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 7 14 1/4 21 1/8 21 7/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 8 14 1/2 21 1/2 22 1/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 9 14 3/4 21 7/8 22 5/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 10 15 22 1/4 23 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 11 15 1/2 22 5/8 23 3/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 12 16 23 23 3/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 13 16 1/2 23 3/8 24 1/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 14 17 23 3/4 24 1/2 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 15 17 1/2 24 1/8 24 7/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 16 18 24 1/2 25 1/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 17 18 1/2 24 7/8 25 5/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 18 19 25 1/4 26 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 19 1/2 25 5/8 26 3/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 20 26 26 3/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 21 20 1/2 26 3/8 27 1/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 22 21 26 3/4 27 1/2 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 23 21 1/2 27 1/8 27 7/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 24 22 27 1/2 28 1/4 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 25 22 1/2 27 7/8 28 5/8 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 26 23 28 1/4 29 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

Kick Pleat 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

4. 7 General Defects. General defects will be classified as follows:

TABLE IV - GENERAL DEFECTS.

DESCRIPTION

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR MINOR

A B

1. PRESSING

a. Pressing omitted. X

b. Skirt burned or scorched. X

c. Gloss, wrinkles, creases, or impressions from thread, tickets, or seams. X

d. Any seam not pressed open. X

e. Any dart or seam not pressed flat on the outside. X X

f. Any dart not turned in the same direction for its entire length. X

2. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES.

a. Any hole, cut, tear, or needle chew on outside of skirt. X

b. Any hole up to and including 1/8” on the inside of skirt, or lining. X

c. Any hole more than 1/8” on the inside of skirt, or lining. X

d. Weakening defect consisting of a smash. X

e. Weakening defect consisting of a multiple float or slub on the outside of skirt. X

f. Weakening defect consisting of a multiple float or slub on inside of skirt. X

g. Permanent crease in cloth (if caught in stitching). X

h. Unsightly slub or shade bar on outside of skirt. X

i. Unsightly slub or shade bar on inside of skirt. X

j. Pulled thread on outside of skirt. X

3. SHADED PARTS

Outside part shade. X

4. CLEANNESS

a. Spot or stain on outside, clearly noticeable. X

b. Spot or stain on inside, clearly noticeable. X

CLASSIFICATION

c. One or more shade tickets not removed. X

d. Any shade marking visible on outside of skirt. X

e. Thread ends (except at ends of darts) not trimmed, loose threads not removed, or thread ends at ends of darts less than 1/2” or more than 3/4” long.

X

5. COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any component part or required operation omitted (unless otherwise classified herein). X

b. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not herein classified). X

c. Any part not cut in conformance with warp directional lines indicated on patterns or in accordance with requirements specified herein. X

6. SEAMS AND STITCHING

a. Any seam twisted, puckered, or pleated. X

b. Part of material caught, for a distance up to and including 1/4”, in unrelated operation or stitching. X

c. Part of material caught, for a distance exceeding 1/4”, in unrelated operation or stitching X

d. Ends of stitching except a continuous line of stitching or pointed ends of darts (if not caught in other seams or stitching) back-tacked less than 1/4 inch.

e. Stitching overlapping ends of thread break less than 1/2 inch. X

f. Ends of a continuous line of stitching overlapped less than 1/2 inch. X

g. Gage of stitching irregular, i.e., unevenly gaged or corresponding stitching not uniform (to be scored only if condition exists along major portion of seam).

h. Gage of stitching not within range of gage specified or various more than 1/16” if no range is specified. X i Stitches (except buttonhole) broken or missing up to and including 1/4 inch. X

j. Stitches (except buttonhole) broken or missing more than 1/4” but not more than 1/2 inch. X

CLASSIFICATION

k. Stitches (except buttonhole) broken or missing more than 1/2 inch. X

l. Stitches skipped 1/4” to 1/2” inclusive. X

m. Stitches skipped more than 1/2” long. X

n. Run-offs 1/4” to 1/2” long inclusive. X

o. Run-offs more than 1/2” long. X

p. Raw edge more than 1/4” long. X

q. Not specified seam or stitch type. X

r. Stitches per inch more than maximum specified (to be scored only if condition exists on major portion of seam or stitching). X

s. Stitches per inch less than minimum specified (to be scored only if condition exists on major portion of seam or stitching). X

t. Stitch tension loose resulting in loose seam. X

u. Stitch tension loose (loops of top or bottom thread exposed) for a distance of 1/2” to 1” inclusive. X

v. Stitch tension loose (loops of top or bottom thread exposed) for a distance more than 1 inch. X

w. Stitch tension tight (stitches breaking when strain is applied in the direction of seam or stitching). X

7. BUTTONHOLE

a. Gimp omitted. X

b. One or more broken or continuous skipped stitches in buttonhole. X

c. Buttonhole uncut. X

d. End(s) of buttonhole not securely bar-tacked X

e. Stitches of buttonhole not securely caught in fabric (stitches can be pulled away from fabric). X

f. Cut length of buttonhole less than 5/8” or more than 3/4 inch. X

g. Purling not on outside of waist tab. X

h. Ragged buttonhole. X

8. BUTTON

CLASSIFICATION

a. Button missing, broken, and insecure. X

b. Tacking stitches on hand-sewn button omitted or insecure. X

c. Buttons not specified type, size, or color. X

d. Button stitches not through the ply of the waist facing on inside of skirt. . X

LABELS

a. Size bar code label missing, incorrect or illegible. X

b. Combination label (if individual size and identification labels are not used) missing, incorrect or illegible. X

c. Identification label (is combination label is not used) omitted, incorrect, or illegible. X

d. Stitching through printing on label. X

e. Identification label (if combination label is not used) not positioned on center front waist facing with the size label on left side. X

f. Combination label (if used) off center of center front waist facing more than 1/2 inch. X

10. COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not herein classified). *

b. Any component part or required operation omitted (not herein classified). *

4.2.2.2 DETAILED DEFECTS, TABLE IV

TABLE V. DETAILED DEFECTS

Description MAJOR MINOR

1. INSIDE CHANGE POCKET

a. Pocket opening less than 4 1/4” + 1/8 inch. X

b. Pocket opening less than 3 3/4 inches. X

c. Pocket omitted. X

d. Not within 1/4” of proper lateral location. X

e. Pocket opening uneven with top of waistband by more than 1/8 inch. X

f. Pocket opening not uniform from top of waistband. X

2. WAISTBAND

a. Waistband twisted. X

b. Width of waistband not uniform by more than 1/8 inch. X

c. Ends of waistband not turned under. X

d. Waistband-to-skirt joining seam line exposed on outside for a distance of 1” or more. X

e. Ends of any hanger loop not securely caught in waistband-to-skirt joining seam. X

f. Length of hanger loop (folded) less than 1 1/4” or more than 1 3/4 inches. X

g. Any hanger loop 1” or more from either side of right side seam line or folded end of waist facing on the back edge of left side opening. X

h. Fullness on outside of waist facing. X

i. Width of finished waist facing less than 7/8” or more than 1 1/4 inches. X X

j. Waistband containing more than one piecing. X

k. One or both hanger loops omitted. X

l. One or more corresponding seam lines or dart lines at joining seam of waistband to top of skirt not aligned by more than 1/4” or front and back folded edges of side opening in lining less than 1/8” or more than 1/4” inward from slide fastener chain. X X

A B

m. Top stitching of waistband facing omitted. X

n. Top stitching exposed on outside of skirt. X

o. Top stitching not full length specified. X

p. Folded end of hanger loop not facing bottom of skirt. X

3. SKIRT SIDE OPENING

a. Buttons not aligned with buttonholes eyelet when slide fastener is closed. X X

b. Inside purled edge of buttonholes eyelet less than 7/16” or more than 9/16” from pointed end of waist tab. X

c. Welt edge stretched or twisted. X

d. Welt stitching irregular. X

e. Row of stitching on back edge of left side opening exposed beyond edge of welt on front when slide fastener is closed. X

f. Stitching on back or front of side opening too close to slide fastener chain so that slider does not pass freely. X

g. Slide fastener defective, affecting function. X

h. Slide fastener tapes stitched too loose or too tight, causing front or back edge of opening to bulge when fastener is closed. X

i. Stops at top of slide fastener more than 5/8” from top of finished skirt or lining. X

j. Top of slide fastener tapes not securely caught in waistband linings. X

k. Bottom stop on slide fastener extending more than 1/4” above or below top end of side seam line. X

l. Waist tab not securely caught in welt stitching. X

m. Welt stitching on front of side opening less than 1/2” or more than 5/8” from the folded edge of the front. X

4. DARTS

a. Any dart twisted or puckered. X

b. Ends of any dart less than 1/4” or more than 3/4” below drill holes. X

A B

c. Corresponding darts not positioned uniformly from joining seam line of side fronts to fronts in skirt or lining by 1/2” or more. X

d. Inside folded edge of any front or back dart not turned toward center front or back respectively in the skirt or lining. X

e. Corresponding darts in skirt or lining not the same length by more than 3/8 inch. X

f. One or more darts omitted. X

5. PINKING OR SERGING

a. Width of front and back seam allowance(s) (after pinking) in skirt or lining less than 5/8 inch. X

b. Width of side seam allowance(s) (after pinking) in skirt or lining less than 7/8 inch. X

c. Pinking or serge omitted more than 3” on any seam allowance or on front or back side opening edges in skirt or lining or bottom edge of skirt. X

d. Lining not cut in warp direction of the lining material. X

6. HEM TAPE

Hem tape omitted. X

4.8 Finished Measurement Defects. Any finished measurement deviation from the finished measurements specified in the finished measurement table shall be classified as a defect.

4.9. Examination of Preparation for Delivery Requirements. An examination shall be made to determine if packaging, packing, and marking requirements have been met. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully packed and selected just prior to the closing operation. The lot size shall be the number of containers in the inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-3 of ANSI Z1.4, and the acceptable quality level shall be 4.0 defects per 100 units. Shipping containers full prepared for delivery shall be examined for defects of closure and scored as follows:

PACKAGING AND SHIPPING DEFECTS

EXAMINE DEFECT

Marking Omitted; incorrect, illegible or improper size, location, sequence, or method of application.

Materials Any component missing. Any component damaged, affecting serviceability.

Workmanship Inadequate application of component such as: incomplete closure of case liners or inadequate stapling. Bulging or distortion of containers.

Content Number of intermediate packages is more or less than required.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1. Shipping Protection. The Garments shall be packaged in a manner that shall afford adequate protection against deterioration and damage during shipment to the USAF Academy for immediate use.

5.2 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order the interior and exterior packages shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended Use. The Garment covered by this specification is intended for use as a component of the Dress Uniform worn by cadets of the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2. Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Classification required (see 1.2).

c. Quantity required by size (See 1.4)

d. Availability of sample (see 3.1)

e. Requirements for Bid Sample (see 3.2.1).

f. Requirements for First Article (see 3.2.2).

g. Government furnished basic fabric (see 3.7.1).

h. Any special markings required (see 5.3.)

i. Selection of applicable packaging, packing and marking requirements specified herein (See 5.1, 5.2, and 5.3).

6.3 Color Shade Samples. Sample USAFA color shades may be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

USAF Academy Cadet Uniforms Section (10 LRS/LGRCU) Colorado Springs CO 80840 USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

Reviewing Activity:

Cadet Logistics Chief (10LRS/LGRC) USAF Academy, CO 80840-8210

STANDARDIZATION DOCUMENT IMPROVEMENT PROPOSAL

INSTRUCTIONS: The purpose of this form is to solicit beneficial comments, which will help achieve procurement of suitable products at reasonable cost and minimum delay, or will otherwise enhance use of the document. USAFA contractors, government activities, or manufacturers/vendors who are prospective suppliers of the product are invited to submit comments to the government. Comments submitted on this form do not constitute or imply authorization to waive any portion of the referenced document(s) or to amend contractual requirements. Attach any pertinent data, which may be of use in improving this document. If there are additional papers, attach to form and place both in an envelope addressed to Cadet Uniform Quality Control 10LRS/LGRCU, 2348 Sijan Dr., Suite 2B1, USAF Academy, CO 80840- 8210.

DOCUMENT IDENTIFIER AND TITLE

NAME OF ORGANIATION AND ADDRESS CONTRACT NUMBER

MATERIAL PROCURED UNDER A

Direct Government Contract

Subcontract

1. HAS ANY PART OF THE DOCUMENT CREATED PROBLEMS OR REQUIRED INTERPRETATION

IN PROCUREMENT?

A. Give paragraph number and wording.

B. Recommendations for correcting deficiencies.

2. COMMENTS ON ANY DOCUMENT REQUIREMENT CONSIDERED TO RIGID

3. IS THE DOCUMENT RESTRICTIVE?

4. REMARKS

SUBMITTED BY(Printed or typed name and address - Optional)

TELEPHONE NO.

DATE