Atch_2_-_USAFA_Specification_220.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION 220

TROUSERS & SLACKS, CADET, SERVICE

14 April 2016

FA7000-16-T-0075

Attachment 2

USAFA CU 220

14 April 2016

TROUSERS & SLACKS, CADET, SERVICE

1. SCOPE.

1. 1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for men’s trouser/slacks, tropical: wool, polyester/wool.

1.2. Classification. The garments shall be of one type in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I. SCHEDULE OF SIZES & LENGTHS

Men’s Women’s Extra Short 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Short 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Medium Regular 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Regular 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Medium Long 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Long 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Extra Long 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Long 26 thru 50 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Extra Long 26 thru 50 0 thru 26

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government Documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton/or Polyester Covered A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester A-A-52108 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon A-A-55634 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods V-T-285 Thread, Polyester V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)

MILITARY

MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusible MIL-T-43566 Tape, Textile, Cotton or Polyester, General Purpose, Natural or in Colors MIL-DTL-21115 Cloth, Tropical Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

14 April 2011

STANDARDS

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches, and Seams

ANSI

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 American National Standard, Sampling Procedures and Tables For

Inspection

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1. Samples. Samples may be furnished by the government only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished trouser and slack in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification along with Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations.

Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1. Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for the service coat shall be 10 -ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, USAFA blue shade 540, conforming to MIL-DTL-21115. The material for the pocket flap linings shall conform to Type III of MIL-DTL-21115. The government shall be responsible for sponging the fabric so that the maximum shrinkage after sponging shall be no more than 3% in either the warp or the filling direction.

3.3.2 Pocketing and Lining. The material for the pocketing, for the waistband lining, for the bottom fly lining, and for the crotch lining shall conform to class I of MIL-C-43718, except that the color of the material shall be blue to match the outer shell. The waistband lining shall incorporate non-slip tape.

3.3.3. Buttons, Hardware & Fasteners.

3.3.3.1. Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 4, 22 line of V-B-871 and the color shall approximately match the basic fabric.

3.3.3.2. Slide Fastener (Zipper). The slide fastener shall conform to A-A-55634 and shall be brass, type 1, style 4, size 2 and short tab pull type or equal. The tape shall be woven from 100 percent polyester or from blends of nylon and cotton, polyester and cotton, or polyester and shall have a minimum width (each side) of 3/8”. The completed slide fastener shall not shrink more that 2% when tested as specified in. A four-part assembly, brass #3 size brass metal stop shall be used at the top. The tape shall include an automatic or cam lock. The color of the tape shall be USAFA Shade Blue 540 or black. The dyed tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good” fastness to laundering and wet dry-cleaning. YKK 45u zipper is known to meet this specification.

3.3.3.3. Hook and Eye. The hook and eye shall be crush proof and shall have a nickel plate finish. The hook and eye shall be an approved hook and eye (see 6.7), or equal; however, the approval of the procuring activity shall be required before an “or equal” hook and eye may be used.

3.3.4. Interlining/Interfacing. The interlining used for these trouser/slacks shall be as specified or equal.

The material for the top fly interlining and the front pocket facing shall be a non-woven no less than 1 oz/sq. yd.

3.3.4.1. Waistband Interlining. The material for the waistband interlining shall be either a bleached or unbleached cotton-polyester cloth, that contains not less than 45 Percent polyester fiber or a cotton buckram cloth that has a plain weave. The cotton buckram cloth shall have a minimum of 48 ends in the warp, shall have a minimum of 40 picks in the filling, and shall weigh a minimum of 3.5 ounces per square yard or a non-woven fusible complying with MIL-C-44296 may be used.

3.3.4.2. Waistband Stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to MIL-C-43920.

3.3.4.3. Construction Tapes. All construction tapes shall be of good commercial quality for the purposes intended

3.3.4.3.1. Stay Tape. The tape shall be cotton, unbleached, herringbone twill weave and fully shrunk, conforming to Class 1 of Commercial Item Description A-A-52071. The widths shall be 1/4" for staying seams. The tape shall be preshrunk so that it will not shrink more than 2.0 percent. The preshrinking process shall not be identified by name or trademark on the tape, the ticket, or the package. Material for the interlining stays shall be twill cloth, black, conforming to type 2, class 2 of Commercial Item Description A-A-52106.

3.3.4.3.2. Tape, Waistband, Non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white color, with two rows of cloroprence or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item.

3.3.5. Labels. Each trouser/slack shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.3.5.1. Combination Contractor Identification and Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, classes 1, 2, 10, and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL- 32075. Each trouser/slack shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool products Labeling Act of 1939.

The wool contents must be included in the combination contractor and identification label. The label shall show the following information:

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

The label shall be approximately 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” in size and shall be sewn on the inside of the right back pocket. The label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.3.5.2. Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable hard-paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial hard-paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Sizes 38 regular and 12 regular shall be expressed as 38R and 12R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all trouser/slacks, the label shall be tacked to the waistband, above the left rear pocket.

3.3.6. Thread. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the jackets. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the jackets will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent, in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble.

3.3.6.1 Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton – or Polyester-Covered. The cotton or polyester-covered polyester core thread for general stitching of the skirt shall be Ticket #50 and #70, 2 or 3 ply. The thread for sewing of the buttons shall be Ticket #30, 2 ply. All threads shall conform to A-A-50199. The color shall be DOD thread shade navy blue AT, Cable No. 66060.

3.3.6.2. Colorfastness. All dyed thread shall show colorfastness to light and wet drycleaning, equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to light and wet drycleaning.

3.3.6.3. Thread for Reinforcing Buttonholes (Gimp). The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, Size No. 8 of A-A-50198 and shall be DOD Thread Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 (see DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968).

The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. If a standard sample is not available, the thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have good colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning.

3.4. Design. The trouser/slacks shall be a dress type. The trouser/slacks shall have a sewn-on waistband with a hook and eye closure, a one-piece French Fly with a slide fastener closure, side-seam front pockets, and double-welt rear pockets. The closure of the left rear pocket shall consist of a

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction * buttonhole tab and button. The women’s fly shall be opposite the men’s fly. An outlet is provided at seat seam and from crotch to knee to hedge for the future growth of the customer. The buttonhole shall be an eyelet-end taper-bar type or an eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole, worked over cotton gimp thread, with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be ½ to 5/8 inch.

The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be ½ to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be bartacked, with 21 stitches per tack, in a separate operation. The bar end of the eyelet-end taper-bar type of buttonhole shall have a minimum of four stitches not counting the first cross-over stitch.

3.5. Patterns. One standard/master pattern shall be furnished upon request to the contractor by USAFA.

The contractor shall grade the pattern and develop the necessary working patterns.

3.5.1. Pattern Parts. The component parts of the garments shall be cut from materials as specified by the pattern.

3.5.2. Seam Allowances. During the grading process, the contractor shall grade to allow a seam allowances. The patterns provide a ¼ inch seam allowance for bagging pockets, a 3/8 inch seam allowance for all other seams except seat seam and inseam of back part; 7/8 inch has been added to the seat seam allowances (total 1-1/4 inches at top) to allow for tapering the seat outlet and ¾ inch has been added to the inseam of back part (total 1-1/8 inches at top) to allow for the inseam outlet of back part to knee

3.5.3. Pattern Changes. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the contract’s last shipment being received by USAFA.

3.6. Construction. The garments shall be constructed in accordance with Table of Operations herein;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished jackets.

3.6.1 Stitches & Seams. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM D6193. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished trouser/slacks. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trouser/slacks. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.6.1.1. Top and Edge Stitching. Dark blue polyester thread i.e. A-A-50199 shall be used for top stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout during the top and stitching operations

3.6.1.2. Bartacks. Bartacks shall be of appropriate length for the task and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.1.3. Shade Markings. The component parts of the trouser/slack shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except the following:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(2) No metal fastening devices shall be used on the lining.

(3) Sew-on shade tickets.

(4) Adhesive-type tickets which result in discoloration of the fabric, or leaves adhesive on fabric upon removal of tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside/visible parts of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.6.1.4. Shade Matching. The shade of the finished slack shall match the shade of the standard sample, USAFA Blue shade 540.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished garments shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification, or comparable construction. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable Acceptable Quality Levels.

3.7.1. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of these garments shall conform to this specification.

3.7.2 Pressing. Unless otherwise specified herein, all pressing shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine. Pressing shall not damage the garments.

3.8. Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The garments shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations, but the garments shall be made as complete open-tailored garments.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the trouser/slacks in accordance with the patterns which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and notches for proper assembling of all parts.

(b) Spread the basic fabric without tension.

Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic fabric. The directional lines on the fronts and the backs, measured at the top and bottom edges of the patterns from the directional line to the selvage edge of the basic fabric, may vary a maximum of 1 inch from the warp direction;

however, the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 1 inch.

(c) Cut all parts of the trouser/slacks made of basic fabric from the same piece of basic fabric, except for parts that may be cut from ends. The narrow facings for the side pockets, the hip pocket bearers, the belt loops, the fly tab pieces and the fly pieces (top and bottom) may be cut from ends but shall approximate the shade of the other parts of the trouser/slacks. The cut parts from the top ply and the bottom ply shall match & correspond to the patterns

(d) Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with No. 7.

2. Cut Lining and Interlining

(a) Cut the material for the bottom fly lining on the straight or on the bias.

(b) Cut the material for the crotch lining so that the fold will be on the bias and one of the inseam sides will be in the direction of the warp.

(c) Cut the material for the waistband lining and the material for the waistband interlining on the bias and of sufficient width to comply with operation 18. Cut non- slip tape of sufficient length and width to comply with operation 18. As an option, the waistband

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom may be a commercial type provided the material meets the requirements specified herein.

(d) Cut the material for the top fly interlining and for the stays for the side pockets.

3 Cut Pockets Cut the material for the pockets in the warp or the filling direction. Cut as many pockets as possible in the warp direction.

4 Mark Parts Except for the parts that may be cut from ends, mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the trouser/slacks to insure correct size and uniform shade throughout the trouser/slacks

5 Replace Defective or Damaged Parts

(a) Replace any part of the trouser/slacks containing a hole, a smash, a multiple float, a slub, or a shade bar.

(b) Replace any part of the trouser/slacks that is damaged by a needle chew, a cut, a tear, a hole, a burn, or an exposed drill hole during a manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished trouser/slacks.

6 Overedge Stitch

(a) Overedge stitch the raw edges of the inseams, the leg bottoms, the outseams (from the lower side pocket notch to the bottom of the trouser/slacks), the crotch seams, the seat seam and the end of the waistband. The crotch linings folded in half, lengthwise may be caught in the stitching along the crotch seams and the forepart (see No. 6(b)). The side pocket stay pieces, with the bottom ends turned under, may be caught in the overedge stitching of the outseams (see No. 15).

70-2 70-2 70-2

502 or EFd-1 503 or EFd-1 504 or EFd-1

6-10 6-10 6-10

(b) The crotch linings may be stitched to the foreparts in a separate operation.

50-2

SSa-1

6-10 50 2

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

7 Make Stripping for Buttonhole, Tab and Belt Loops Turn the stripping with both edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center. Stitch with the covering stitch on the underside. The width of the finished stripping shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping shall incorporate a stiffener.

70-2 105 Efae-1 12-16 70 1

8 Make Hip Pocket Buttonhole Tab

(a) Cut a piece of the stripping (see No. 7) of sufficient length to comply with No. 8(b) and to finish 1-1/4 inches (plus or minus 1/8 inch) long when attached to the right hip pocket.

(b) Fold the piece of strip ping in half, and shut the side edges forming a point. Bartack across the abutted edges at the pointed end, catching the base of the triangle. Place a second bartack, across the abutted edges 5/8 inch (plus or minus 1/16 inch) from the first bartack, forming a slit buttonhole. The bartacks shall be 3/8 to ½ inch long.

Bartack

Or

Automatic Tacker

24-28 per tack

9 Make Flies

(a) Superimpose the top fly on the top fly interlining. Stitch the back edge of the slide fastener tape to the top fly with two rows of stitching. The ends of the scoops shall be ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch when the fasteners are cut and the scoops removed.

The edge of the chain in the finished trouser/slacks shall be ½ to 5/9 inch from the edge at the top, tapering to ¼ to 3/8 inch from the edge at the bottom.

301 or

LSbj-1 LSbj-1

10-14 10-14

(b) After the fastener is cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the fastener tape to the back edge of the bottom fly, with the bottom end of the scoops ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch. When the fly tab of the finished trouser/slacks is buttoned, the fly tab and the waistband shall lie smooth and flat.

301 SSa-1 10-14

c) Seam the lining to the front edge of the bottom fly to within 1 inch (plus or minus ¼ inch) from the top of the fly.

301 or

SSe-2(a) SSe-2(a)

10-14 10-14

(d) Overedge the back edge of the top fly 503 SSa-1 6-10 70 2

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread and the interlining. 70 2

10 Make Darts

(a) Fold and stitch the darts as indicated on the pattern. Turn the folded edge of the trouser/slacks toward the seat seam. The lower end of the dart shall finish in the hip pocket opening.

301 OSf-1 10-14

(b) An automatic dart marking machine may be used for this operation.

11 Make Hip/Back Pocket and Attach

Combination Label

The finished pockets shall be in alignment, shall be uniform in width and depth, and shall be 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish 5-1/4 + 1/8 inches long.

(a) Position the combination label on the left hip/back pocketing so that the combination label on the finished trouser/slacks will face the wearer, be centered (+ ½ inch tolerance) on the pocket and the top edge 1 to 1-1/2 inches below the bearer. Stitch the label on all four sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. The certification label shall be sewn on the left hip/back pocketing on all four sides. On the selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

301 LSbj-1 10-14

(b) Turn in the lower edge of the bearer, and seam to the pocket at the notches. If the bearer piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

301 LSd-1 10-14

(c) Position the cord facing piece on the outside of the trouser/slacks, as indicated on the pattern, with the pocketing placed on the underside (as indicated by the solid line on the pattern); stitch to the trouser/slacks through the pocketing with two rows of stitching.

301 10-14

(d) Cut the opening between the rows of stitching through all plies simultaneously.

Turn the lower part of the facing through the cut opening, and raise stitch forming a 1/8

301 10-14

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom inch to 3/16 inch cord edge.

(e) Turn in the raw edge of the cord facing piece, and seam to the pocketing. If the cord facing piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in.

301 LSd-1 10-14

(f) Fold the pocketing; seam the sides, and turn to the finished position. 301 or

SSe-2(a) SSe-2(a)

10-14 10-14

(g) Smooth out the pocketing, and single stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from the edge. The stitching may extend across the bottom folded edge. The ends of the bearer & the cord, facing piece shall be caught by the edge stitching only.

SSe-2(b)

And OSf-1

10-14

(h) Form a 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch cord of the facing on upper edge of the pocket opening.

Insert the buttonhole tab at the center (1/4 inch off-center tolerance) on the right hip pocket. Raise stitch the seam through the trouser/slacks, the cord facing piece, the pocket bearer, and the pocketing, closing the top of the pocket.

301 10-14

(i) Tack the ends of the pocket opening ¼ to

3/8 inch through the cord, the bearer, and the pocketing.

OR

(j) No. 22(c) and 11(d) may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine that stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation. If this machine is used, the welt pieces may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine and the machine Manufacturer’s recommended pocket stay material may be used.

(k) Raise stitch the joining seam of the lower piping piece through the back of the trouser/slacks and the piping piece only.

Raise stitch the joining seam of the top piping piece through all plies, closing the top of the pocket. The ends of the pocket openings shall be securely tacked.

301 10-14

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

12 Make Side Pockets

Place the facing and the bearer on the pocketing; stitch along the inner side, with the raw edge turned in, and across the lower end. A selvage edge need not be turned in.

301 LSd-1 10-14

13 Attach Side Pockets

The edges of the side pocket openings shall not be distorted. The openings shall be aligned, shall be uniform in length, and shall measure not less than 5-3/4 inches, nor more than 6-1/2 inches between tacks.

Avoid notching the pocket on the underside beyond the width of the side seam allowance.

(a) Seam the side pockets to the front, as indicated by the marks on the pattern, notch the pocket openings; turn to the finished position with the seam to the back of the front edges, and stitch 3/16 to ¼ inch from the edge, starting at the top of the pocket opening.

301 SSe-2 12-14

b) Fold the pocket left side out, and stitch from the step to the folded edge of the pocketing. Notch the pocket and the facing at the top of the step and turn the pocket.

301 or

SSAe-2(a) SSAe-2(a)

10-14 10-14

(c) Tack the ends of the openings to the bearer with ¼ to 3/8 inch tacks. The left and right pocket opening shall not be out of alignment by more than ½ inch.

301 10-14

14 Sew on Flies

The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the slide fastener is closed.

(a) Sew on the bottom fly with the notches matched.

301 SSa-1 10-14

(b) Sew on the top fly (slide fastener attached) with the notches matching; turn and raise stitch the fly 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the turned edge. Turn the fly to the inside with the seam line 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of the folded edge

301 or

LSq-2(a)

Lsq-2(b)

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

15 Join Outseams

(a) Join the outseams with the notches matched, catching the pocket stay with the bottom ends turned under (if not previously caught in the overedge operation) (See No.

6(a)).

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10-14 10-14

(b) Press the outseams open from the bottom to the top of trouser/slacks. The pocket stay pieces may be folded over the open seam and pressed into position for No.

16.

16 Finish Side Pockets

(a) Turn in the back edge of the side pockets and the edge of the stay pieces and stitch to the stay pieces 3/16 to ¼ inch from the edge along the side seam allowance. Continue the stitching around; the pocket to the folded edge and securely backstitch the end of the seam.

SSc-1

SSe-2(b)

17 Attach Waistband and Set Belt Loops

Finished appearance. The finished waistband shall measure 1-1/2 (+1/8) inches wide. There shall be seven loops for sizes up to & including 37 and eight loops for sizes 38 and up. The loops shall be positioned as follows:

-One on each front as indicated by patterns.

-One at each outseam on back.

-One centered between outseam & seat seam.

-One on seat seam (See operation 27a and b).

The extra loop for larger sizes on right front 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from bottom fly joining seam.

401 SSa-1 10-14

(a) Stitch the left and right waistbands to the trouser/slacks, catching the ends of the belt loops, except the center back loop in the stitching.

(b) Press the waistband seams open.

(c) Drop belt loops & securely stitch or 301 or 10-14 50 2

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom bartack the loops 3/8 inch below the waistband seam. The stitching or tacking shall not extend beyond the width of the loop. NOTE: The waist band lining may be attached to the waistband (see No. 18) prior to setting to the trouser/slacks.

bartack or automatic loop tacker

50 2

18 Make and Join Waistband Linings

The waistband lining shall be not less than 2 + 1/8 inches wide in the finished trouser/slacks. The top row of rubber thread of the non-slip tape on the waistband lining assembly shall be ¾ + 1/8 inch from the top of the waistband. No stitching shall penetrate the rubber thread of the non-slip tape. The waistband linings may be pieced, providing the seam is flat & not more than one piecing is made in each of the trouser/slacks. The waistband lining shall incorporate elastic stripping.

(a) Make non-slip waistband lining

503, 504, FSf-1 8-10 70 70

(1) Position the center of the non-slip tape

5/8 (+ 1/16) inch below the top edge of a 2- 1/4 inch wide woven or nonwoven buckram strip. Buckram may be pieced by butting ends & joining. Not more than one seam per waistband shall be permitted.

(2) Cut the waistband lining material (see operation 2d) on the bias in two portions to attach above and below the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape as follows:

503 SSa-1 10-14 70 70

- The lower portion shall be cut wide enough to fold around the bottom edge of the buckram and extend ¼ inch beyond the lower row of rubberized threads, front and back. The lower lining portion shall measure 1 (+ 1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to the trouser/slacks.

- The top portion shall be cut wide enough to extend 5/8 inch beyond the top row of rubberized threads and ¼ inch beyond the top edge of the buckram with a ¼ inch turn under near the top row of rubberized threads. The top lining portion shall measure 5/8 (+ 1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to trouser/slacks. The

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom lining may be pieced with not more than one seam per portion of waistband using a ¼ inch seam spread open and flat.

(3) Turn under the lower edge of the top portion of waistband lining material ¼ inch.

With fold adjacent to the top row of the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape, stitch close to fold through lining, non-slip tape and buckram.

(4) Turn under the top of the front of the lower portion of waistband lining material ¼ inch. Place fold adjacent to the lower row of the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape.

Stitch close to fold through lining on front, non-slip tape, buckram, and portion of lining turned to back.

(c) Turn under top edge of waistband lining

& stitch to top edge of waistband catching interlining stabilizer with a row of simulated hand felling.

(d) Applicable to trouser/slacks when option to extend waistband lining to right end of waistband is exercised). Turn right end of waistband lining to the outside and stitch to front edge of waistband catching the top of the fly lining in the stitching.

(e) Fold waistband lining to the inside and baste or press top edge. The lining shall not be exposed beyond the top of waistband.

19 Attach Hook and Eye

(a) Position the hook on the center (1/4 inch off-center tolerance) of the top waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach the hook through a suitable reinforcement.

(b) Position the eye on the center of the bottom waistband, aligned with the slide fastener scoops, to corresponding to the hook on the top waistband. Attach the eye through a suitable reinforcement.

NOTE: The closure shall not bulge when the hook and eye are engaged in the finished

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

20 Finish Top and Bottom Flies

The top corners of the top and the bottom flies shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the top fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the top fly to the forepart shall not be exposed on the outside of the trouser/slacks when the slide fastener is closed. The bottom fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside. The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers or excessive fullness.

(a) Continue the stitching of the fly lining to the top of the waistband 301 or

SSe-2(a) SSe-2(a)

10-14 10-14

(b) Turn the bottom fly lining to the inside, & stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge.

Turn in the fly lining at the top of the waistband, & continue the stitching across the top. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining, and raise stitch the fly joining seam, matching the fly lining in the stitching. The edge stitching along the front edge of the fly may be accomplished in a separate operation.

SSe-2(b) SSc-1

Lsq-2(b) Shows finished seams)

(c) If the option to extend the waistband lining to the right end of the waistband is exercised, the following operation shall apply:

Turn the bottom fly lining to the inside, & stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge.

Continue the stitching along the front end of the waistband, across the top of the waistband & down to meet the back of the bottom fly. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining, and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching.

301 or

SSe-2(b) LSq-2

10-14 10-14

(d) Turn the back end of the waistband in line with the front folded edge of the top fly, and stitch across the top of the waistband the width of the fly. Trim, turn, and work out the corner.

301 SSa-1 10-14

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

(e) Stitch down the top fly with the waistband lining smoothly inserted between the fly and the trouser/slacks. The stitching shall be 1- 3/8 inches (+ 1/8 inch) from the front edge of the fly, extended from the top of the waistband, and curve to the fly notch.

301 SSa-1 10-14

21 Join Inseams

(a) Join inseams forming outlet with the seam allowance of back part from 1-1/8 inches at crotch all the way down the leg.

The seam shall finish evenly and notches shall match. The tolerance on matching the inseams is + 3/8 inch.

301 or

SSa-1 SSa-1

10-14 10-14

22 Join Seat Seams

The seat shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain encountered in sitting or stooping. In the joining of the seat seam the inseams shall meet and the bottom & top waistband joining seams shall be aligned. The base of the top fly shall cover the bottom fly on the outside of the finished trouser/slacks. The inseams shall not be staggered more than 3/8 inch at crotch.

(a) Join the seat seam from the base of the fly to the end of the waistband lining with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart.

401 SSa-2 7-10 Each

Needle

(b) Press the crotch & seat seam open.

23 Finish Waistband and Attach Size Label

(a) Topstitch the spread-open waistband seam 1/16 inch below the joining seam catching the waistband lining (with ends at the top of the pockets in the stitching). The stitching shall not extend across the fly except when option to extend waistband lining to right end of waistband is exercised.

Pockets may be stitched or basted to waistband seam allowance prior to top stitching.

301 LSb-2(b) 12-16

(b) Stitch the top edge of the size label to the lower edge of the waist-band lining above the left hip pocket. The stitching shall not be

301 10-14

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom through the printing. The end of the stitching need not be tacked provided the stitching extends at least ½ inch beyond each end of the label.

(c) Join the bottom edge of the waistband lining (catching the interlining) to the top edges of the pockets with a row of simulated hand felling. The stitching shall terminate 1 to 1-1/2 inches beyond the front edges of the front pockets and the back edges of the hip pockets. When this operation is performed by hand, the stitching may terminate at the front edges of the front pockets and the back edges of the hip pockets, providing they are securely tacked.

103 or 105 or 106 or 314 or Hand

SSe-2(b) SSc-1

Lsq-2(b) Shows finished seams)

24 Assemble Slide Fasteners

Attach the slider and, with the ends of the chain even, staple the fastener together at the bottom with the staple overlapping the scoops.

25 Stitch Bottom Fly Extension

Turn in the raw edges of the bottom fly extension piece, and machine stitch or hand fell to each side of the spread open crotch and seat seam.

301 or

Hand

SSac-3(b) SSac-3(c) SSac-3(d) SSac-3(b) SSac-3(c) SSac-3(d)

6-8

26 Finish Belt Loop Attachment

Turn up belt loops, fold under top of loops and position folded edge 1/8 (+ 1/16) inch from top of waistband and bartack. The finished belt loops shall measure 1¾ (+ 1/8) inches from bartack at top of loop to the bottom folded edge.

301 or bartack or automatic loop tacker

LSd-1

10-16 21-28 per bartack 24-28 per tack

27 Attach Center Back Belt Loop

Finished appearance. The tacking shall extend the width of the loop but not beyond.

(a) Turn under top end of belt loop, position over seat seam even with top of waistband and stitch, tack or bartack to trouser/slacks 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. The top folded edge of loop shall finish 1/8 (+ 1/16) inch from top of waistband.

301 or bartack

LSd-1 10-14

28 stitches per bartack

(b) Turn under bottom end belt loop and Automatic LSd-1 24-28 50 2

No DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom bartack to trouser/slacks ¼ (+ 1/8) inch below waistband. The finish loop shall measure 1½ to 1 5/8 inches between tacks.

Looper stitches per tack

28 Make Buttonhole

Make the buttonhole at the end of the tab, as indicated on the pattern; with the inside edge of the eyelet 5/8 to ¾ inches from the point.

The purling shall face the wearer of the finished trouser/slacks.

Buttonhol e

52-54

Stitches per buttonhole

29 Mark or Gage and Sew Button

The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes. Hand sewn buttons shall be shank wrapped three times & the ends of the thread shall be securely tacked with not less than two stitches. Machine sewn buttons which are automatically shanked shall have a minimum of ten wraps with three locking stitches.

(a) Sew a 22-line button on the top waistband lining to correspond with the fly-tab buttonhole. The stitching shall not be visible on the outside of the trouser/slacks.

or

14-16 per button

14-16 per button

(b) Sew a 22-line button on right hip pocket through pocket and facing to correspond to buttonhole tab.

Hand

4 double thread stitches per button

30 Bartack

The bartacks shall be well made & correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified. The bartacks at the side pocket openings shall extend beyond the outseams 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8 to ½ inch.

a) Bartack all pockets at the ends of the pocket opening. The bartacks shall be perpendicular to the openings.

Bartack 28 Stitches per bartack

(b) Bartack at the base of the fly at the junction of the crotch seam and the fly. The bartack may be diagonal, in line with the fly stitching, or may be horizontal & shall not extend beyond the crotch seam.

Bartack 28 Stitches per bartack

31 Finish Bottoms

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per inch

Thread

Top Bottom

For both types of trouser/slacks overedge or pink leg bottoms.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1. Inspection Responsibility. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any commercial laboratory acceptable to the government. The Cadet Uniform Section (10LRS/LGRCU) reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure that the finished product conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.2. Responsibility for Dimensional Requirements. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for ensuring that all specified dimensions have been met.

When the dimensions cannot be examined on the end item, inspection may be made at any point or at all points in the manufacturing process necessary to ensure compliance with all dimensional requirements.

4.1.3. Responsibility for Supplier Certificates of Compliance. Certificates of component compliance with the Federal Acquisition Regulations must be submitted to the Government. This shall be done in the first article process.

4.2. Classification of Inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First Article Inspection

2. Quality Conformance/End Item Inspection

4.3. First Article Inspection. The first article shall be inspected as specified in this document for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements.

4.4. Component and Material Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.5. Inspection Quality Conformance/ End Item. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4. The end item shall be examined for defects. Except for defects with an asterisk (*) in the classification column, all defects found during this examination shall be classified in accordance with Table V and Table VI. Defects with an asterisk in the classification column shall be classified as a major defect when affecting appearance or serviceability seriously, and as a minor defect A when affecting appearance or serviceability, but not seriously. The inspection levels shall be II of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for major and minor A combined, and S-3 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 for minor B. The acceptable quality level for major and minor A combined shall be 2.5 defects per 100 units for major defects, 15 defects per 100 units for major and minor A defects combined, and 40 defects per 100 units for totals (major and minor A and B combined).

GENERAL AND DETAILED DEFECTS AQL

AQL LEVEL INSPECTION LEVEL

Major 2.5 II Major and Minor A 15.0 II

Major, Minor A And 40.0 II Minor B (combined)

**One Class 4.0 S-3

*Table 1 shows the Acceptable Quality Levels and Inspection Levels for defects listed in General and Detailed Defects Table II.

**Used for Special Inspection Levels such as finished measurements

4. 6. Finished Measurements: Any measurement deviating from the nominal dimensions and tolerances specified in Table III will be scored as a size-measurement defect.

1/ Measure the waist from folded edge to folded edge across the center of the waistband, with the slide fastener closed, and multiply the measurement by two.

2/ Measure the seat from the folded edge to folded edge, 9 inches below the top of the waistband, with the slide fastener closed, and multiply the measurement by two, 3/ Measure the inseam length, along the inseam, from the crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom of the leg.

4/ Measure the unhemmed bottom of the leg from the folded edge to folded edge and multiply the measurement by two.

5/ Measure knee from folded edge to folded edge across the width. The knee is defined as the inseam plus 3” from the bottom edge of the unfinished trouser/slack.

TABLE III: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS & TOLERANCES IN INCHES, MEN’S TROUSERS

Size ½

Waist 1/

½ Seat 2/

Inseam Length 3/

½ Bottom

4/

½ Knee

5/ XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

Tolerance + ½ + ½ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ½ + ½ 26 13 17 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 8 1/2 9 27 13 1/2 18 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 8 5/8 9 1/8 28 14 18 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 8 3/4 9 1/4 29 14 1/2 19 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 8 7/8 9 3/8 30 15 19 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 9 1/2 31 15 1/2 20 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 1/8 9 5/8 32 16 20 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 1/4 9 3/4 33 16 1/2 21 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 3/8 9 7/8 34 17 21 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 1/2 10 35 17 1/2 22 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 5/8 10 1/8 36 18 22 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 3/4 10 1/4 37 18 1/2 23 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 9 7/8 10 3/8 38 19 23 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 10 1/2 39 19 1/2 24 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 1/8 10 5/8 40 20 24 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 1/4 10 3/4 41 20 1/2 25 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 3/8 10 7/8 42 21 25 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 1/2 11 43 21 1/2 26 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 5/8 11 1/8

TABLE III: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS & TOLERANCES IN INCHES, MEN’S TROUSERS

½

Waist 1/

½ Seat 2/

Inseam Length 3/

½ Bottom

4/

½ Knee

5/ XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

Tolerance + ½ + ½ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ½ + ½ 44 22 26 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 3/4 11 1/4 45 22 1/2 27 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 10 7/8 11 3/8 46 23 27 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 11 11 1/2 47 23 1/2 28 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 11 1/8 11 5/8 48 24 28 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 11 1/4 11 3/4 49 24 1/2 29 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 11 3/8 11 7/8 50 25 29 1/2 37 37 38 38 39 40 41 11 1/2 12

TABLE III: FINISHED MEASUREMENTS & TOLERANCES IN INCHES, WOMEN’S SLACKS

½ Waist

1/ ½ Seat

2/

Inseam Length 3/

½ Bottom

4/

½ Knee

5/ XS S R L XL XXL XXXL

Tolerance + ½ + ½ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ¼ + ½ + ½ 0 12 1/2 18 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 1/16 9 1/8 1 12 3/4 18 3/4 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 3/32 9 3/16 2 13 19 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 1/8 9 1/4 3 13 1/4 19 1/4 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 5/32 9 5/16 4 13 1/2 19 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 3/16 9 3/8 5 13 3/4 19 3/4 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 7/32 9 7/16 6 14 20 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 1/4 9 1/2 7 14 1/4 20 1/4 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 9/32 9 9/16 8 14 1/2 20 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 5/16 9 5/8 9 14 3/4 20 3/4 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 11/32 9 11/16 10 15 21 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 3/8 9 3/4 11 15 1/2 21 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 7/16 9 13/16 12 16 22 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 1/2 10 13 16 1/2 22 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 9/16 10 1/8 14 17 23 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 5/8 10 1/4 15 17 1/2 23 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 11/16 10 3/8 16 18 24 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 3/4 10 1/2 17 18 1/2 24 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 13/16 10 5/8 18 19 25 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 7/8 10 3/4 19 19 1/2 25 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 9 15/16 10 7/8 20 20 26 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 11 21 20 1/2 26 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 1/16 11 1/8 22 21 27 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 1/8 11 1/4 23 21 1/2 27 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 3/16 11 3/8 24 22 28 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 1/4 11 1/2 25 22 1/2 28 1/2 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 5/16 11 5/8 26 23 29 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 10 3/8 11 3/4

4. 7 General Defects. General defects will be classified as follows:

TABLE IV - GENERAL DEFECTS.

DESCRIPTION

CLASSIFICATION

MAJOR

MINOR

A B

PRESSING

a. Omitted X

b. Poorly pressed or variation in the sharpness of creases at front & back of legs

X

c. Burned or scorched X

d. Gloss or wrinkles X

e. Seam(s) not pressed open (when specified) X

f. Leg(s) pressed with seams not matching at bottoms X

MATERIALS DEFECTS AND DAMAGES.

a. Hole, cut, tear or needle chew:

1. On outside:

--any X

2. On inside:

--up to 1/8”(inclusive diameter/length X --more than 1/8” in diameter or length X

b. Visible mend, darn, or patch:

1. On outside:

--any X

2. On inside:

--up to ¼”(inclusive)in diameter/length X --more than ¼” in diameter/length

c. Weakening defects:

1. Smash X

2. Multiple float or loose slub:

--on outside X --on inside X

d. Unsightly slub or shade bar:

-- on outside X -- on inside X

CLEANNESS

a. One or more spots or stains X

b. One or more removable spot or stains X

c. One or more shade tickets not removed. X

d. Any shade marking visible on outside. X

e. Thread ends not trimmed or loose threads not removed throughout

X

COMPONEN…