Atch_1_-_USAFA_Specification_120.pdf

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE ACADEMY

SPECIFICATION 120

JACKET, SERVICE, CADET, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

14 APRIL 2016

FA7000-16-T-0075

Attachment 1

USAFA CU 120

14 APR 2016

JACKET, CADET, SERVICE, MEN’S AND WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for service jackets worn by cadets at the United States Air Force Academy.

1.2. Classification. The jackets shall be of the one type in the following classes.

Class 1: Stock Class 2: Made to Measure – A garment that is made to the measurements of the cadet and fits properly without the altering of outlets intended for later use.

1.2.1. Lengths and Sizes. The garments shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes:

TABLE I. SCHEDULE OF SIZES &LENGTHS

Men’s Women’s Extra Short 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Short 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Medium Regular 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Regular 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Medium Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Extra Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26 Extra Extra Extra Long 33 thru 56 0 thru 26

1.2.2 Class 2 - Made to Measure. The finished measurements of these jackets will depend upon the result of the cadets’ measurements, which will be furnished by the government.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1. Government documents

2.1.1. Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto cited in the solicitation.

FOUNDATIONAL DOCUMENTS:

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

A-A-50067 Cloth, Flannel, Wool A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven And No woven A-A-50196 Thread, Silk A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton, or Polyester Covered A-A-52071 Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) A-A-52097 Cloth, Cotton, Wigan

A-A-52105 Cloth, Interlining, Cotton, or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling

A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill Or Plain Weave, Polyester And Polyester Blend

A-A-55187 Braid, Textile (Flat) A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods V-T-285 Thread, Polyester V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button Staple (Plastic)

Military

MIL-B-371 Braid, Textile Tubular MIL-B-3461 Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-15064 Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-DTL-21115 Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DTL-32075 Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

STANDARDS

MILITARY

MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

ASTM

ASTM-D1974 Box, Shipping, Fiberboard ASTM-D6193 Stitches And Seams

ANSI

ANSI/ASQCZ1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

2.1.2. Government Publications. Copies of Specifications, Commercial Item Descriptions, Standards, drawings and other publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions may be obtained by contacting the ASSIST Online Database, https://assist.dla.mil or by contacting:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.

2.2. Non-Government Publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues of the documents, which are DOD adopted, are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of documents cited in the solicitation ().

2.2.1. American Society For Testing and Material

Contact:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.2. The Color Association of the United States

Color Association of the United States, Inc.

343 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10016-0927

2.2.3. For American National Standard Institute such as the following

ASTM

1819 L Street NW 6th floor Washington, DC, 20036 Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

2.3. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

2.3.1. Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Samples. Samples are furnished only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2. First Article. A first article is a prototype made by the successful contractor in the solicitation. It must be made from components that meet this specification’s requirements and Federal Acquisition Requirements. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure when requested in lieu of a site survey.

3.2.1. First Article Requirements. When required and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished jacket of each gender in the master pattern size, conforming to the requirements of this specification and Component Certificates of Compliance from component suppliers, guaranteeing compliance with all Federal laws and regulations.

Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval may be waived. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade working patterns from first article or prototype garments submitted.

3.2.2. Fabrication and Assembly of the First Article. The first article shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The first article shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.

3.3 Materials

3.3.1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for the garments shall be 10 -ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, USAFA blue shade 540, conforming to MIL-DTL-21115. The material for the pocket flap linings shall conform to Type III of MIL-DTL-21115. The government shall be responsible for sponging the fabric so that the maximum shrinkage after sponging shall be no more than 3% in either the warp or the filling direction.

3.3.2. Lining. The lining shall be minimum 2.2oz 100% polyester complying with class III of A-A-52106.

The color shall be black or a closely matching blue and the minimum weight shall be 2.2 ounces per square yard.

3.3.3 Buttons, Hardware & Fasteners.

3.3.3.1 Buttons, Metal, Chrome. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Class B, “short” and “long” shank (Wings & Star) of Specification MIL-B-3461. The buttons shall be 36-line for the front and 25-line for the pocket flap of the men’s jacket. The buttons shall be 30-line for the front and 25-line for the pocket flap of the women’s jacket.

The buttons for the flaps of the inside lower hanging pockets and of the breast pocket shall be furnished with the split pin or the ring type toggles specified in MIL-B-3461.

3.3.3.2. Buttons, Plastic, Stayer. The stayer buttons shall be Style 15, 18-line, Type II, Class D, melamine formaldehyde, 2 or 4-hole, conforming to Specification V-B-871. These buttons are for staying the metal buttons. The color shall approximately match the basic fabric or black.

3.3.4. Interlining, General. The interlining used for these garments shall be as specified or equal.

3.3.4.1. Interlining Wigan. The material for interlining sleeve bottoms and bias backing for lining of the collar shall be cloth, cotton wigan, dark color/black, 3.6 ounces per square yard, conforming to Type II of Specification A-A-52097.

3.3.4.2. Interlining, Collar. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural or dark color, conforming to the requirements for Type III, of Commercial Item Description, A-A-50186.

3.3.4.3. Construction Tapes. All construction tapes shall be of good commercial quality for the purposes intended.

3.3.4.3.1. Stay Tape. The tape for staying the armholes, front edges and bottom of jacket shall be cotton, unbleached, herringbone twill weave and fully shrunk, conforming to type 1, class 1 of Commercial Item Description A-A-52071. The widths shall be 1/4" for staying armholes and seams and 5/8” for staying front edges, lapel, and bottom of jacket. The color shall be natural, bleached or black. The tape for staying the bridle at the breakline shall be ½ inch wide. The tape for back neckline shall be cross-cut, made from natural or dyed black polyester blend cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The raw edges of the tapes shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. The tape for the neckline shall be ½ inch wide. The tape shall be preshrunk so that it will not shrink more than 2.0 percent. The preshrinking process shall not be identified by name or trademark on the tape, the ticket, or the package.

3.3.4.3.2. Fusible Tape. As an option, double-faced fusible tape may be used for the left vent and for anchoring the hanging pockets.

3.3.4.3.3. Cross/Edge Tape. This twill cloth shall be bias cut for the back of the neck gorge of the fronts and for the fronts/front edges of the garments shall conform to Class 1 of A-A-52106 except that the requirements for non-fibrous material, and the cloth shall be cut across the width in strips of 5/8 inch (+ 1/16”) wide. The ends of the strips shall be abutted or overlapped and stitched with diagonal stitching.

The diagonal stitching shall be a minimum of 8 stitches per inch with a bight (throw of 1/8 to 3/16 inch).

The edges of the tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent raveling. The color of the tape may be natural or dyed.

The chrome finish and the only back style used for these garments, #45, is depicted here. This style number is that of OGS Technologies, Waterbury Button CO.

#45

3.3.4.4. Interlining, Front. The interlining for the front and side of the men’s jacket, the facing, underarm, shoulder loops, bottom hem, pocket, back yoke of the women’s jacket, the patch pockets, pocket flaps and the shoulder loops shall be Type V, Class 1, and Style B of MIL-C-44296 or equal. Fusing operations shall be in accordance with the procedures recommended by the producers of the fusible materials. The floating chest piece shall be composed of non-fusible chest piece, a non-fusible canvas shoulder piece and a fusible felt chest piece.

3.3.5 Collar. The collar shall be a notched collar. The wool material for the undercollar shall conform to A-A-50067, except that the colorfastness requirements to perspiration and crocking shall not apply. The color shall be USAF Color Shade No. 1549. The material for the undercollar interlining shall be in conformance with A-A-50186.

3.3.6. Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.3.6.1. Combination Contractor, Identification, and Care Label. The combination label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, conforming to Type VI, classes 1, 2, 10, and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL- 32075. Each jacket shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool products Labeling Act of 1939. The wool contents must be included in the combination contractor and identification label. The label shall show the following information:

*Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

**Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

The label shall be 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” in size and shall be sewn on the outside of the inside breast pocket.

Label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.3.6.2. Removable Size/Bar Code Ticket. The removable hard-paper size ticket shall be approximately 2” X 3” and be of regular commercial hard-paper construction. The letters and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Sizes 38 regular and 12 regular shall be expressed as 38R and 12R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2” in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all jackets, the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve.

3.3.7. Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 4 of MIL-P-15064 for the women’s jacket and Type I, Class 4 of MIL-P-15064 for the men’s jacket. The curved edge, back half, shall be over edge stitched through all plies to prevent raveling, or needle punch shoulder pads may be used.

3.3.8. Sleeve-Head Pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064. The front part of the sleeve-head pads for the jackets shall be covered with bias-cut canvas that is 4 inches long by 3 inches wide and conforms to Type II of A-A-52105.

3.3.9. Braids.

Item Description * Contract Number * Contract Date * Size ** Cadet Name ID Number Squadron Supplier’s Name * Fabric Content * Care Instruction *

3.3.9.1. Sleeve Braid. The braid for each sleeve shall be mohair, flat and 1” wide. The color shall be “Midnight”; Cable No. 70090 or Pantone F&H color 19-40070. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187. Samples of braid are available upon request.

3.3.9.2. Hanger Braid. The material for the hanger braid shall be cotton, tubular braid conforming to Specification MIL-B-371F, Type III and shall have a breaking strength of not less than 75 pounds. The braid shall be 1/8" to 3/16" wide. The braid shall be black and shall have good colorfastness to crocking and wet/dry cleaning.

3.3.10. Threads. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the jackets. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the jackets will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent, in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble.

3.3.10.1. Thread, Silk. The silk thread for hand felling shall conform to Type III, Class 3, Ticket A or C, two-ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine felling, shall conform to Type I, three ply of A-A-50196.

The silk thread for machine felling/edge stitching shall be black and conform to Type 1, No. A, three-ply of A-A-50196. (Except that the requirement for extractable material shall not apply).

3.3.10.2. Thread, Polyester Core; Cotton or Polyester Covered. The thread for seaming and stitching the jackets shall conform to Tex 40 of A-A-50199. The colored threads shall be Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall have good colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiration and light. The thread for topstitching shall be black.

3.3.10.3. Thread, Gimp for Reinforcing Buttonholes. All colored thread shall match the shade of the basic fabric and shall show good colorfastness to light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning. Tests shall be performed as specified in Specifications A-A-52094 and A-A-50196B, as applicable.

3.3.10.4. Thread, Nylon. The nylon thread, if used for padding the lapel and bridle, shall conform to Type III, letter size, 00 of A-A-59826. The nylon thread used for hand felling shall conform to Type IV, Sizes A and C, two-ply.

3.3.10.5. Color and Colorfastness: All colored thread shall match the shade of the basic fabric and shall show good colorfastness to light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning. Tests shall be performed as specified in Specifications A-A-52094 and A-A-50196B, as applicable.

3.3.11. Pocketing. The twill cloth for the pocketing, top of vent, the armholes, the shoulder and front interlining stays shall conform to Class 2 of A-A-52106 or equal, except that the non-fibrous materials, the seam efficiency and the colorfastness requirement shall not apply. The color shall be black and the minimum weight shall be 5 ounces per square yard.

3.4. Design. The jackets are single-breasted, semi-fitted, four-button jackets with notched lapels. The men’s is ¾ lined and the women’s is fully lined. The front of the men’s has two pleated breast pockets with flaps and two lower false pockets with flaps. The front of the women’s has to lower false pockets (no upper patch pockets) with flaps and shaping darts from the same area. The back of the men’s is two pieces with a center vent and the women’s two-piece back has no vent. Each pocket flap shall have a cut first buttonhole, centered on the flap with the eyelet cut to accommodate a button held in place with a toggle. Both shall have shoulder-board loops, a square notched collar, 1” sleeve braid. The exposed inside components of the men’s jacket shall be bound with piping. Each shall have an inside hanging pocket in the front with buttons. The center front closure shall be square and not rounded at the hemline.

The sleeves shall be trimmed with braid 3" from the hem line of the sleeve. Two shoulder-board loops shall be placed in the proper position on each shoulder so that the shoulder boards are in the center of the shoulder from front to back. The outside edge of shoulder boards shall be even with the outside edge of the shoulder seams. The buttonholes for front shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, reinforced with gimp with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the purling finishing to the outside.

The ends of the buttonholes shall be bartacked the width of the bar section, catching ends of thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to the underside of buttonhole.

3.5. Patterns. One standard/master pattern shall be furnished upon request to the contractor by USAFA.

The contractor shall grade the pattern and develop the necessary working patterns.

3.5.1. Pattern Parts. The component parts of the garments shall be cut from materials as specified by the pattern.

3.5.2. Seam Allowances. The patterns provide the following allowances: ¼” for lapel and front edge seams; ¾” outlets on side seams and center back seam; ½” outlet on front of under sleeve, and lining; 1” turn up for bottom hem; and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified herein.

3.5.3. Pattern Changes. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the contract’s last shipment being received by USAFA.

3.6. Construction. The garments shall be constructed in accordance with Table of Operations herein;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished jackets.

3.6.1. Stitches & Seams. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM D6193. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished trouser/slacks. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trouser/slacks. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.6.1.1. Top and Edge Stitching. Dark blue polyester thread i.e. A-A-50199 shall be used for top stitching, pocket setting and edge stitching. However, one kind of thread shall be used consistently throughout during the top and stitching operations.

3.6.1.2. Bartacks. Bartacks shall be of appropriate length for the task and be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

3.6.2. Shade Markings: The component parts of the jacket shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except the following:

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.

(2) No metal fastening devices shall be used on the lining.

(3) Sew-on shade tickets.

(4) Adhesive-type tickets which result in discoloration of the fabric, or leaves adhesive on fabric upon removal of tickets.

NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering or machine rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside/visible parts of the garment, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.6.3 Use of Automated Apparel Equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the sewing operations, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

3.7. Workmanship. The finished jackets shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification, or comparable construction. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable Acceptable Quality Levels.

3.7.1. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of these garments shall conform to this specification.

3.7.2 Pressing. Unless otherwise specified herein, all pressing shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine. Pressing shall not damage the garment.

3.8. Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The garments shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in Table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations, but the garments shall be made as complete open-tailored garments with convertible collar and revers.

TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS, MEN’S

DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

1. CUT BASIC FABRIC

a. The basic material shall be spread face to face.

The spread of cloth shall be in a suitable number of plies for the applicable fabric

b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths. Care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched or full and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the jackets.

c. The jackets shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns, which shall show size, directional lines for cutting, markings, and notches for placement of pockets and flaps, shape, and proper assembling of all parts. All component parts to be cut from the basic material shall be cut from the same bolt of fabric.

d. The front waist dart shall be cut in accordance with the marks on the patterns. The shoulder loops, the pocket flaps, and the top collar shall be cut across the width of the material. The flap lining shall be cut across the width of the material.

e. The left front and front facing shall be trimmed in the front shaping operation. The use of drill holes for pocket darts and flap locations is prohibited.

f. Replace at the time of cutting, any parts containing holes or weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into a hole.

2. CUT THE LINING

a. The material for the body lining, sleeve lining, armhole shields, men’s right vent, men’s yoke, and men’s inside breast pocket facings shall be cut in the direction of the warp. The sleeve linings and the underside of the shields may be cut out of ends. When the sleeve linings are cut from ends, STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m the parts shall match and the sleeves shall match each other.

b. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the jackets.

3. CUT TRIMMINGS

a. Cut fusible interlinings in the same direction as the parts to fused.

b. The cloth for armhole, shoulder and interlining stays shall be cut on the bias. The cloth for inside breast pocket, pocket stays and vent stays shall be cut in the direction of the warp.

c. The felt fabric composite undercollar cloth shall be die-cut as indicated by the lines on the pattern.

d. The wigan interlining for sleeve bottom shall be cut on the bias.

e. The bindings for the bottom of the jackets, side seams, center back seams, and the back edge of the left vent shall be bias cut and shall be 3/4 or 7/8 inch in width. The binding for the top edge of the outside breast patch pocket shall be 7/8 to 1 inch wide.

4. REPLACEMENT OF DAMAGED PARTS. Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages (which may be a hole, scissors or knife cut, tear, holes, mends, burns, pull, snag, loop, etc) are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

5. SHADE MARKING

a. All component parts of the basic material and linings shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the jackets. Sleeve linings, whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be shade marked.

b. The numbering shall, at all times, start from the same position for all parts, for example: If the ply, STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m Number 1 is used for the top ply and the next ply below facing the top ply, shall be Number 1 for all parts.

c. The use of sew on tickets and metal fastening devices for shade marking is permitted on the basic fabric, but they shall not be used on the linings.

6. FUSING

a. Fuse the side front armhole interlining with the armhole edge set back 1/8 inch and 3/8 inch from the edge of the side body to front joining seam.

Fuse the back vent top and bottom.

b. Fuse the small parts fusible interlining piece to the top and under sleeve, with the bottom edge of the fusible interlining 1/8-inch from the bottom edge of the sleeves, and center.

c. Fuse the small parts fusible to the top collar.

Position the top collar interlining, and center it on the top collar with 3/16 inch from all edges, as indicated on the pattern.

d. Fuse the small parts fusible to the flaps and top welt aligned with the corresponding notches on the basic material.

e. Fuse the small parts fusible to the left and right facings with the top of the fusible interlining 1/8-inch from the top of the shell.

7. MAKE INTERLINING FROM FRONTS.

a. Spread the shoulder dart, and zigzag the wedge piece to the inside of the interlining at the shoulder dart with the edges overlapping.

b. The abutted or overlapped edges, waist darts, armhole darts, and lower waist darts at the back edges of the interlining, respectively shall be zigzag stitched together through the twill cloth stay pieces. The abutted or overlapped edges may be stitched together prior to the stitching through the twill cloth stay pieces.

c. Spread the shoulder dart on the chest piece of 304 4-6 70/20

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m the interlining, and zigzag stitch the wedge piece to the shoulder dart, with the edges overlapping.

d. The abutted or overlapped edges of the armhole dart on the chest piece shall be zigzag stitched together.

4-6 70/20

e. Position chest piece of canvas in front. With monoflex catch the horsehair or cloth piece in between.

f. Zigzag stitch on the front and bottom edges to the front interlining. Place an additional row of zigzag stitching vertically through the center of the chest piece.

g. Quilt the flannel or felt padding to the interlining, with rows of stitching 3/8 or 3/4 inch apart, with the flannel padding extending beyond the shoulder, the armhole, and the side of the interlining. The shoulder portion of the interlining shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pad.

h. Zigzag stitch the back edge of the strip of the bias-cut twill cloth for reinforcing the buttonholes.

The strip shall be 3 inches (plus or minus 1/4 inch) wide. The strip of twill cloth shall be positioned with the top edges even with the step and the front edge 1/4 inch from and parallel to, the front edge of the right front interlining. On the left front position, the front edge of the twill cloth strip even with the lapel edge at the step and aligned with the notch on the bottom of the interlining.

i. The front interlining shall be shirred 3/8 to 1/2 inch approximately 3/4 inch back of the waist dart, and 1 inch from the front edge. The shirring shall measure approximately 3 1/2 inches in length above and below the waistline (twill cloth on the front shall not be caught in the shirring).

101, 401 OSa-1 12-14 A 70/2

A A

8. MAKE SHOULDER LOOPS

a. Make shoulder board loops. A strip of polyester/wool shall be folded to the center with the edges overlapped and double stitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch gage with a covering stitch on the underside. Loops shall finish 3/8 inch wide.

406 EFH-1

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

b. Cut four loops 1-7/8 inch long for each jackets.

c. Front end of loops shall be turned under prior to stitching onto jackets. Back end of loops shall be caught in shoulder seam stitching.

d. First loops on each shoulder shall finish 1-3/8 inch long and be located 1 inch up from armhole seam at the outer edge . Opening of first loops shall be 1-1/4 inch.

e. Second loops on each shoulder shall finish 1- 1/8 inch long parallel with first loop and be 3-3/4 inch up from the first loop from outside edge to outside edge, . Opening of second loops shall be 1 inch.

f. NOTE: Measurement for placement of shoulder loops shall be taken along the shoulder seam.

9. MAKE BREAST POCKET

The finished flaps shall finish with the corners pointed and conforming to the shape of the master pattern. Seam the lining to the flaps, trim away excess material, turn and single stitch edges of flap with 3/16 inch gage.

301 Sse-2 12-14 A or silk

10. MAKE TWO LOWER FALSE POCKETS

a. Seam the lining to the flaps, trim the corners, turn and single stitch 3/16 inch from the edge.

The lining may be joined to the flap with cotton thread. The edge stitching shall be performed with silk thread.

301 Sse-2 12-14 A or

b. When the lower flaps are cut from one piece of fabric, fold the flap in half, sew the ends with 1/4 inch seam, trim away excess material at corners, turn and stitch edges with 3/16 inch gage.

11. PRESS FLAPS

a. After the buttonholes have been made, the flaps shall be pressed flat and smooth.

b. The flaps shall be marked with appropriate marker before setting on jackets, to insure proper dimension of the flap.

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

12. MAKE BUTTONHOLES IN FLAPS

a. Make a cut first buttonhole 7/8 inch long through the center of each lower flap. The eyelet shall be 5/8 + 1/8 inch up from the bottom edge of the flap.

Buttonhole Machine

38-40 buttonhole not including bartack

b. Make a cut first buttonhole 7/8 inch long through the center of each breast pocket flap.

The eyelet shall be 5/8 + 1/8 inch up from the point of the flap. NOTE: The purling shall finish on the right side of the flaps.

c. The ends of the buttonhole thread and gimp shall be securely bartacked. Clip threads close to bartack.

Bartack 21 per

A A

d. The buttonholes shall not be cut open except the eyelet which shall be cut out. Bartacking shall be a separate operation from the buttonhole making.

e. The bartack may be done by hand, but shall not be more than 3/16 inch long.

Hand or machine

0-12 per

A skein

13. MAKE TWO BREAST PATCH POCKETS

CREASING MACHINE CONSTRUCTION

a. Form a 1-1/2 inch wide vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket by creasing machine. Stitch the pleat closed, across the top and the bottom, with the inside side edges abutted.

301 Ssa-1 4-8 A A

b. Blind stitch the abutted edges of the pleat 301 Ssm-1 4-8 A A

c. Place the twill cloth pieces to back of the patch pocket (underside). Seam around, at the side and the bottom, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge. The sides and the bottom edges shall be creased to conform to proper shape as shown by the pocket shapers.

301 Ssm-1 12-14 A A

d. Form a 1-1/2 inch wide, vertical box pleat to the outside in the center of the pocket and stitch.

301 Osf-1 12-14 A A

e. Stitch across the top and the bottom of the 301 Ssa-1 12-14 A A

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m pleat.

f. Baste the center of the pleat by machine, with a long stitch.

101 or 301 or hand

12-14 A A

g. Press the pleat (in the center of the pocket) flat and smooth with a heated pressing iron or

h. Seam the twill cloth lining to the pocket around the side and the bottom edges.

Ssa-1 A A

i. Trim the bottom corners of the pockets.

j. Turn the pocket and baste the edges with the twill cloth lining slightly back from the pocket edges. In lieu of basting, a cardboard template the shape and size of the patch may be inserted between the twill cloth and basic material and pressed.

k. Put on a shaper and trim the top edges if necessary. Stitch across the top of the pocket.

Ssa-1 A A

l. Press the pockets smooth with a heated pressing iron or machine.

m. The top raw edge of the patch pocket shall be trimmed and the edge shall be serged. This may be done in one operation.

14. MAKE COLLAR

a. Join the undercollar pieces. 301 Ssa-1 A A

b. Join the undercollar interlining. 301 Ssa-1 A A

c. Open the undercollar seam and stitch one side of the seam allowance to the interlining, or press the undercollar seam open with a heated pressing iron or machine. If the undercollar and the interlining are cut in one piece, a, b and c will not be required.

d. Quilt the interlining to the undercollar with seven to eight rows of blind stitching.

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

e. Press, and mark undercollar with collar shaper, cut excess material - or the undercollar may be shaped with a die-shaper to conform to undercollar shaper.

f. Mark undercollar stand. The stand shall be 1 ¼ inches wide at the center of the collar, measured from the lower edge of the undercollar.

g. Place a machine stitch on the undercollar stand mark. Place one row of stitching along the end and top edge of collar ½ inch away from the edge

301 Ssa-1 12-14 A A

h. Mark the topcollar with a pattern shaper. The topcollar may be die cut as indicated by the shaper at the outer edge.

i. Position the upper edge of the topcollar between the upper edges of the undercollar and the interlining, matching notch and seam together.

301 or 304 Lsa-1 4-6 A A

j. Baste the ends, the upper edge of the collar, and at the crease lines.

101 or hand

m. Bell the top and the side edges of the topcollar to the undercollar by hand. As an option, the top edge only may be machine felled with simulated hand stitching; the corners and the sides shall be felled by hand. When simulated hand stitching is used for the top edge, the operation shall precede the collar basting.

n. Press and crease the stand of the topcollar together in one operation to shape, stretching the outer edge of the collar across the shoulders and holding the crease line short.

o. Trim the bottom edge of the topcollar to allow for seaming.

15. MAKE SLEEVES

a. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve, distributing fullness between the notches.

b. Press the forearm seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron, holding the folding line short

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

c. Stitch the interlining to the underarm seam and the sides of the back arm seam. The bottom edge of the cuff interlining shall be ½ to ¾ inch below the turn up notches.

301 Ssa-1 6-14 A A

d. Mark bottom line for sewing on the sleeve braid. The lower edge of braid shall be 3 1/16 inch above the turn up mark.

e. Sew on braid to sleeve on top and lower edges 1/16-inch gage. Lower edge stitching of braid shall catch the wigan piece. Wigan piece shall extend 3/4 inch below the turn up notch

f. Press the braid and the turn up of sleeves

g. Mark and baste the turn up of the bottom of the sleeve.

h. Press the bottom of the sleeves, and pull out the basting.

i. Join the back arm seam of the sleeves with a 3/8-inch seam allowance catching wigan and braid in the seam. The braid shall join evenly at the back arm seam in the finished sleeve.

j. Press back arm seam open and flat with a heated pressing iron, holding the seam short.

k. Blind stitch the turn up of the sleeve to the interlining.

101, 301 or hand

Efc-1 4-6, 1-2, 12-

Nylon

l. Join the back arm seam and one forearm seam of the sleeve linings, respectively

301 SSa-1 12-14 A A

m. The sleeve linings shall extend not less than ¾ inch or more than 1 inch above the top of the sleeve. Tack the forearm seam and the back arm seam of the sleeve lining to the forearm seam and the back arm seam of the sleeve, respectively, distributing fullness of lining during the tacking operation. Extend tacking from not more than 5 inches below the top to not more than 5 inches above the creased bottom edge. When tacking is done by hand, both ends of the stitching shall be securely backstitched with not less than three stitches. NOTE: When 101 is used, 2 tacks on front seam; 3 tacks on the back seam.

101, 301 or hand

4-6, ½-1

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

n. Baste the turn up of the sleeve lining. It shall be not less than 2 inches. The sleeve lining may be felled to the bottom of the sleeve without basting.

hand or

o. Turn the sleeves and assemble in pairs.

16. MAKE LININGS

a. Stitch the side body to the front of the linings 301 SSa-1 12-14 A A

b. Fold and stitch the dart as indicated by the marks on the pattern.

301 Osf-1 12-14 A A

c. Stitch the forepart linings to the facings. 301 SSa-1 12-14 A A

d. Form and stitch the pleat at the front of the armhole as indicated by the patterns or the pleat may be formed when basting the lining.

hand or

17. MAKE INSIDE BREAST POCKET

a. Mark the position as indicated by the pattern for a 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch double piped pocket on the right side through the lining, the facing, and the twill cloth stay. The twill cloth stay shall extend and shall be caught in the armhole. The opening of the finished pocket shall be not less than 5 1/2 inches. The depth of the finished pocket shall be not less than 6 1/2 inches.

b. The bottom raw edge of the lining facing shall be turned in and seamed to the twill cloth pocket.

301 Lsd-1 12-14 A A

c. The top raw edge of the lining facing shall be turned in and seamed in the twill cloth pocket.

When either edge is selvage, it does not need to be turned in. Position the twill cloth pocket on the lining and the wool polyester facing at the marks, with the twill cloth stay on the underside.

301 Lsd-1 12-14 A A

d. The silesia pocket shall be seamed to the lining and the facing throughout the twill cloth stay with two rows of stitching.

301 Ssv-1 12-14 A A

e. The opening of the pocket shall be cut. The ends of the opening shall be tongue notched. The opening of the pocket shall not extend into the

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m facing more than 1 ½ inch or into the armholes.

f. Turn the pocket through the cut opening. Make the top and the bottom piping, and securely tack the corners. Turn the pocket into position and stitch around the sides and bottom of the twill cloth pocket. Stitch through the lining and the stay piece from the back end of the pocket opening to the armholes.

g. The pocket opening may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine, which stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation.

When this machine is used, the piping piece may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine.

12-16 A A

h. The joining seams of the piped edges shall be raise stitched. The bottom of the piped edges shall be raise stitched through the lining and the jackets facing prior to closing the pocket. The top piped edge shall be raise stitched through all plies (not in piping) in closing the top of the pocket.

12-16 A A

18. MAKE ARMHOLE SHIELDS

The armhole shield shall be a triangular, one piece, and lining material sweat shield. The raw edges shall be sewn into the lining dart seam.

Press the shield smooth and flat

301 SSv-1 12-14 A A

19. YOKE

a. The yoke shall be made of lining material. Hem the bottom edge of the yoke with the raw edges turned in to finish ½ inch. Fold the pleat in the center back of the yoke as indicated by the pattern notches and press.

301 Efb-1 12-14 A A

b. Press the seam joining the front body lining to the facing and the side body to one side towards the side seam. Press the pockets smooth and press open the bottom of the joining facing seam.

20. MAKE BACKS

a. Bend the edges of the side seams of the backs, both edges of the center back, and the edge of the left vent with a ¾ inch to 7/8 inch, bias cut, lining material binding.

301 Bsb-1 12-14 A A

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

b. Join the center back seam with a ¾ -inch seam;

continue stitching to ½ inch below the top of the vent. Continue stitching across the top of the vent.

c. Notch the center seam allowance at the top of the vent. Press the center seam open and flat.

Press the left vent edge

301 SSe-2 12-14 A A

d. Join the lining to the right vent, with the raw edges even, turn and stitch 1/8 inch from the edge and continue across the top of the vent lining.

e. Tack the top folded edge of the lining vertically through the back seam outlet only.

hand or machine

6-8 A nylon A

f. Tack the top of the vent through all plies of materials including the lining. The outside tack shall be diagonal and shall be not less than 1 inch long

301 12-14 A silk or 00

g. Baste the yoke to the back.

h. Sew the hanger braid to the center of the back at the collar seam. The finished hanger braid shall measure 2 inches long, + ½ inch

301 hopper

i. Turn back the yoke and sew ¼ inch tape on the backs of the armhole from the side seam to ¾ inch from the shoulder seam, holding the tape taut to draw up the material, evenly distributed 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Seam the cross cut tape across the neck of the back to within 1/2 inch of each shoulder part.

301 or 401 SSa-1 12-14 A A

j. The tape may be sewn on before the yoke is basted.

301 or 401 SSa-1 12-14 A A

k. Taping the armhole on the fronts and backs may be done in one operation.

21. MAKE FRONTS

a. Join front darts, starting from nothing approximately 1 inch above the dart to 3/8 inch at center of cart and taper to nothing approximately 1 inch below the end of the dart.

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m

b. Join side body seam to front with 3/8-inch seam.

c. Sew ¼ -inch tape at forge, starting 1 inch in front of breakline to ½ inch away from the shoulder seam.

301 SSa-1 8-12 A A

d. Sew a strip of bias cut twill cloth on shoulder starting 1 ½ inch away from the shoulder to 1 inch away from front notch.

e. Sew a strip of bias cut twill cloth to armhole starting 1 inch away from shoulder to 1 inch away from front notch

f. Sew ¼ inch tape on armhole starting 2 inches above the notch and continue to end of the armhole at side seam. The tape shall be firm at front, smooth at side arm dart seam, and held taut at back part of armhole.

g. Press front dart and side body seam open holding the seam short and work dart toward back side seam.

h. Before marking for pocket placement, the fronts shall be placed on front chest pressing machines and firmly pressed, keeping the front straight and back short.

301 LSd-1 12-14 A, silk, A, silk,

i. Mark the fronts for the placement of the breast pockets, breast pocket flaps and lower pocket flaps. Note: Care must be taken to insure that the breast pockets and flaps will not be too close to the front edges on the small size jackets

301 LSd-1 12-14 A, silk,

j. Place piece of pocket stay in place and sew breast pockets on fronts according to the marks.

The pockets shall be sewn with 3/16 inch stitch using black silk thread.

301 LSq-2 12-14 A, silk,

k. Sew breast pocket flaps on the marks. The excess fabric shall be trimmed to insure that the raw edge of the flaps will not be exposed after the

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m flaps have been folded and top stitched with 3/16 inch stitch. Note: Both ends of the flap shall cover the breast pocket and the ends of the flaps shall be stitched down catching the flaps, the pockets and the fronts.

l. Sew the lower pocket flaps on the fronts, fold the flap and top stitch. The top stitching shall continue down on the ends of the flaps for approximately 1 inch securely taking the ending of the stitching

301 LSq-2 12-14 A, silk,

22. BASTING FRONTS TO INTERLINING

a. Baste the fronts to the interlining from below the shoulder, along the front dart seam to the bottom of the jackets. The interlining shall extend well beyond the armhole

301 or hopper

b. Tack the vertical front dart to the interlining.

Securely tack the upper pocket stay to the interlining both front and back. When the upper pocket stay is tacked across the top, the middle row of interlining basting shall start at the top of the breast flap.

c. Baste across the shoulder, allowing room for setting the shoulder pads. Baste around the armholes and down the back edge of the interlining. Baste along the breakline of the lapel and down the front edges.

d. Baste the bridle tape ¼ to 3/8 inch behind the breakline of each lapel, holding the tape taut and holding in and properly distributing breast fullness.

The bridle tape shall extend sufficiently above the gorge to permit catching the tape in the gorge seam tacking and to within 1 inch at the bottom.

The tape shall be held taut enough to work in not less than ¼ inch or not more than 5/8-inch fullness. The tape and interlining shall be stamp marked to assure proper fullness. The tape shall be marked ¼ to 3/8 inch for sizes short and extra short. ½ inch for size regular, and 5/8 inch for sizes long and extra-long.

301 or hand

e. The lapels of the jackets shall be padded with six rows of blind stitching, with fullness on the

103 or 301 SSa-6 4-6 nylon nylon

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m interlining between the rows of stitching to roll lapels

f. The bridle tape shall be blind stitched on the front and the back edges.

103 or 301 SSa-6 4-6 nylon nylon

23. JOIN SIDE SEAMS

a. Join the side seams, with a ¾ -inch seam, placing a 3/16-inch fullness evenly distributed on the back, starting 1 inch from the top edge of the step for a distance of 5 to 6 inches.

b. Press the side seam flat and open, holding the seam short and curved toward the front at the blade part of the seam. Press the tape at the armhole, holding the back short.

24. UNDER PRESS LAPELS AND FRONTS

AND SHAPE LAPELS

a. After the lapels are padded, the left ad right fronts of the jackets shall e pressed individually on a breast pressing machine to the shape of the body. The front edge of the forepart shall be straight from the top of the lower flap. The front darts shall curve toward the front edge of the center.

b. Position a lapel shaper from the point of the shoulder to the notch at the bottom of the stand and mark both notches. Mark and trim as shown on shaper.

c. Trim the right front and bottom of jackets matching lengths. Trim interlining at edges of the lapels, bottoms and front ¼-inch.

25. BASTE FACING

Place facing on top of fronts. Baste along the edges, and place required fullness at the corners of the lapels ad over the chest area. Hold the facing taut at the bottom edge of the front.

26. TAPE AND STITCH EDGES

a. Seam the tape to the edge of the jackets from the collar notch, across the top of the lapel, down the front and across the bottom to the back edge

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m of the facing. The width of the seam allowance along the lapel and the front edges shall be 3/16 inch.

b. Fell the back edge of the tape to the jackets on the fronts and the lapels, or the tape may be felled by hand.

301 SSm-1 3-4

c. Press the edges flat and smooth, and edge seam may be pressed open.

27. BIND BOTTOM EDGE OF JACKETS

Bind the bottom edge of the jackets with ¾ inch to 7/8 inch binding. The binding shall extend from the vent to under the lining of the front.

301 BSb-1 12-14 A A

28. PRESS, TRIM AND TURN EDGES

a. Press edges of front flat on pressing machines, and remove bastings. Press edges open.

101 or hand EFc-1 4-6 Poly or nylon

Poly or nylon

b. Trim excess material from corners of lapels and bottom of fronts. Turn fronts.

c. Baste edges of fronts with chain stitch basting machine approximately ¼ inch in from edge.

Work out the corners of the lapels. The edges of the lapels and the fronts shall be finished so that the edge seam will not be exposed when the jackets is finished. Continue basting along the bottom turn up of the jackets, making sure that the center vent will finish with the left vent slightly longer than the right vent. Fell the bottom turn up.

29. BASTE FACING ALONG FRONTS

(SECOND BASTING)

a. Baste the facing 1-inch from the edge.

b. Place a row of basting diagonally from the break to the point of the lapel, placing proper fullness in the facing to permit the lapel to roll.

c. Baste the back edge of the facing, putting fullness over the chest.

30. SEW ON SHOULDER PADS.

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM &

STITCHING

TYPE

STITCH

PER INCH

THREAD

Top Botto m Insert the shoulder pads between the interlining, the chest piece, and the felt or the flannel and securely baste to shoulder in proper position

31. FACING TO INTERLINING

Tack the back edge of the right facing to the interlining with one row of blind stitching 2 ½ inches from the shoulder seam to 2 ½ inches above the inside pocket opening, and continue from the lower edge of the pocket to within 2 inches of the bottom of the jackets. Tack the back edge of the left facing to the interlining not more than 2 ½ inches below the shoulder seam to within 2 inches of the bottom of the jackets.

301 or 103

SSm-1 3-4…