PWS_Atch_2_-BASIC_MILITARY_TRAINING_(BMT)_GUIDE_FOR_ALTERATIONS_10_AUG_2016.doc

BASIC MILITARY TRAINING (BMT) GUIDE

FOR UNIFORM FITTING AND ALTERATIONS

10 August 2016

INTRODUCTION

1. This guide is written with one basic thought in mind: “provide basic written guidance for anyone who issues, fits, alters, or inspects Air Force male and female uniform clothing," it does not replace AFI 36-2903.

2. When trainees/prior service personnel are issued articles of uniform clothing, they are given a garment from stock (tariff size) that is their best size. Due to the number of potential manufacturers of the tariff size garments, the first garment that trainee/prior service personnel try on may not always be the best fit. A satisfactory fit, with few or no alterations, may often be found by trying on another garment from the same-labeled size or trying on the next size (up or down) garment.

3. The proper fit of any uniform cannot be made with the subject standing in a rigid position (e.g., the Position of Attention). Therefore, the individual should stand erect, but not stiff, the feet slightly apart and the arms and hands hanging naturally.

4. It is imperative that alterations be limited to those that are necessary to obtain the desired appearance.

5. The alterations tolerances listed in this fitting guide are only for applying acceptable appearance standards of the uniform. There is no relationship between these tolerances, and those that are permissible in the manufacture of the uniform clothing.

MEN’S LIGHT BLUE LONG SLEEVE SHIRT

BMT FITTING PROCEDURES

AFI 36-2903 REQUIREMENTS

LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS

LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS

Collar: The collar will fit

Collar: Collar of shirt shows smoothly around the neck with

¼ or ½ inch above coat collar.

sufficient size to allow the insert and free movement of the index finger along the neck when buttoned.

Shoulders: Shoulder seams fitted

Shoulders: NOT COVERED to reach a point to the outer edge of the shoulder joint (plus or minus ½”).

Body and Body Length: The shirt

Body and Body Length:

should fit comfortably on the body for

NOT COVERED

ease of movement and be long enough to tuck in the trousers.

Sleeve Length: With arms hanging

Sleeve Length: with arms naturally, cuff of the shirt sleeve will hanging naturally, sleeves will rest on the heel of the thumb when extend to the heel of the thumb.

buttoned. Sleeves of the shirt will not be exposed when wearing service coat.

In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must appear even when worn.

MEN’S LIGHT BLUE SHORT SLEEVE SHIRT

SHORT SLEEVE SHIRTS

SHORT SLEEVE SHIRTS

Collar: The shirt will be fitted

Collar: Collar of shirt shows with the collar unbuttoned. No

¼ or ½ inch above coat collar. requirements for collar fit, because shirt will be worn without a tie

Shoulders: The shoulder seams fitted

Shoulders: NOT COVERED to reach a point to the outer edge of the shoulder joint (plus or minus ½”).

Body and Body Length: The shirt

Body and Body Length:

should fit comfortably on the body for

NOT COVERED

ease of movement and be long enough to tuck in the trousers.

Sleeve Length: With arms bent

Sleeve Length: With arms at 90 degrees, the shirt sleeve bent at a 90 degree angle. Sleeves bottom shall not be higher than should barely touch or come within

1” above the natural crease at the

1” of the forearm.

inside of the arm at the elbow.

TROUSERS (MALE)

TROUSERS

TROUSERS

Fitting: Without belt.

Fitting: Trim fitted with no bunching at waist or bagging at seat.

Waist: Fit comfortably around

Waist: No bunching at the waist.

the waist, but loose enough to allow the fitter or inspector to place four fingers inside the back of the waistband and move them from side to side without strain on the fabric. Trousers will be loose enough around hips and buttocks to preclude gapping of the pockets.

Seat: No bagging at seat. Fitted

Seat: No bagging at seat proportionately to height to ensure sufficient amount of material to form the hem.

Length: Place the trouser on the

Length: Bottom front of the waist where the top of the waistband is trouser legs will rest on front of even with the top of the trainee's hip bone.

shoes with a slight break in the

Trousers will be marked and altered so the crease. Back of the trouser legs bottom of the trousers hem will rest on will be approximately 7/8” longer the front of the shoes between the first than the front.

two bottom eyelets with a slight break.

When viewed from the back, the trouser hem will be no longer than the shoe welt nor shorter than 1/2" above the welt.

The trouser legs will have no more than 1/8" variance between their respective lengths, but must in any case appear even when worn

If the hem does not meet this requirement, the performance is deemed unacceptable.

TROUSERS (MALE)

Break: The break when pinched

Break: Front of trouser legs rest shall not exceed 3/4" total material on the front of the shoe or boot with when measured. If there is no break a slight break in the crease.

in the trouser legs, the trousers will not be acceptable.

MEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE

Service Dress Coat- Dark Blue

Fitting: Fitted over light blue

Fitting: The coat will not be form long sleeves shirt and will not be form fitting.

fitting. Shirt collar must show ¼ to

½ inch above the service coat collar.

Appearance: Ease in shoulder, Appearance: Ease in shoulder, chest, and underarms.

chest, and underarms.

Shoulder: Seams fitted to the

Shoulder: Ease in shoulders.

extremities of top of the shoulders.

Chest: Should have approximately

Chest: Ease in chest and

1 ½” – 2” pull at the chest with a underarms.

long sleeve shirt on.

Waist: Should fit without tightness

Waist: will not be suppressed at or wrinkles with a 4 to 5 inch ease (2 or 2 ½ waist.

inch ease on each side).

naturally the sleeves will end at the heel naturally the sleeves will end at of the thumb, but not to exceed 1" beyond approximately ¼” from the heel of the heel of the thumb. Long sleeved shirt the thumb.

sleeves will not be exposed. After alterations are complete, variances between sleeve length must not exceed 1/4" when worn.

Body Length: With arms hanging

Body Length: The bottom of the coat naturally, the bottom of the coat should should be fingertip length when hand rest between the thumb knuckle and are slightly cupped.

end of the thumb in most cases.

MEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE

Front/Rear View of Service Coat:

Front/Rear View of Service Coat:

The front of the coat will overlap, as well

NOT COVERED.

as the back vent. The coat will fit smoothly over seat and should not have protruding vents in front or back. Bottom of the coat will be even. The row of buttons will be straight from top to bottom when buttoned.

MEN’S ALL WEATHER COAT (OUTER GARMENT)

ALL WEATHER COAT with liner.

ALL WEATHER COAT

with liner.

Fitting: Fitted over the service

Fitting: Coat will be fitted over dress coat.

service dress coat.

Shoulders: Loose enough to

Shoulders: Should fit loose accommodate the shoulders without enough to accommodate shoulder of binding at armholes when arms are service coat without binding at moving or rendering a salute.

armholes when arms are moved.

Sleeve Length: Must cover

Sleeve Length: Sleeves will service coat sleeves, but not more extend ½” beyond the service coat than 1/2" beyond the service sleeves.

coat sleeves. In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must be even when worn.

Body Length: Knee length

Body Length: Coat is knee length, not to exceed 6" below the back not to exceed 6” below knee.

crease of the knee.

WOMEN’S LIGHT BLUE SHORT SLEEVE BLOUSE

BLOUSE

Fitting: Blouse will be fitted comfortably, hanging free of the waist, Fitting: NOT COVERED with a slight curve

Shoulders: Shoulder seams fitted

Shoulders: NOT COVERED to extremities of top of the shoulder

(plus or minus ½”).

Body and Body Length: Long

Body and Body Length: Long enough to prevent a gap between enough to prevent a gap between blouse and skirt, or slacks, when blouse and skirt, or slacks.

rendering a salute. If blouse is visible

Bottom of the blouse is not visible below the bottom of the service coat, below the bottom of service dress pullover sweater or lightweight blue coat, pullover sweater or lightweight jacket, blouse must be tucked inside blue jacket.

service skirt or slack.

Sleeve Length: Alterations may

Sleeve Length: Sleeves should be performed on female short sleeve barely touch or come within 1 inch blouses.

Of the forearm with arms bent at a

90-degree angle.

WOMEN’S LIGHT BLUE LONG SLEEVE BLOUSE

Fitting: Blouse will be fitted comfortably, hanging freely at the waist

Fitting: NOT COVERED

Shoulders: Shoulder seams fitted

Shoulders: NOT COVERED to the edge of the shoulders (plus or minus ½”).

Body and Body Length: Hanging

Body and Body Length:

freely on the waist with only a slight

Bottom of the blouse is not visible inward curve and be long enough to below the bottom of service dress tuck in so that, when rendering a salute, coat, pullover sweater or lightweight shirt will not come out of the slacks or skirt.

blue jacket.

Sleeve Length: With arms hanging

Sleeve Length: Bottom of naturally, cuff of the blouse sleeve must sleeve extends to the heel of the rest on the heel of the thumb when thumb.

buttoned. Blouse sleeves will not be exposed when wearing the service coat.

In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must appear even when worn.

WOMEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE

Service Coat

Service Coat

Fitting: Fitted over a light blue

Fitting: Fitted over a light blue long sleeved or short sleeved long sleeved or short sleeved shirt.

shirt. Shirt collar will show ¼-

½ “ above the service coat collar.

Appearance: Shoulders, chest, Appearance: Coat will follow and waist must fit without tightness the contour of the figure but allow or wrinkles. Collar will fit snugly ease of movement without pulling around the neck without gapping or in the back of the waist.

breaks under the neck. Coat will fit smoothly across the back and shoulders with sufficient ease of movement.

Shoulder: Seams fitted to the

Shoulder: NOT COVERED extremities to top of the shoulder.

Chest: Should fit with approximately

Chest: NOT COVERED

1 ½ – 2 inch pull in the front.

Waist: Should fit without tightness

Waist: NOT COVERED or wrinkles with a 4 - 5 inch ease (2 - 2 ½ inch ease on each side).

Body Length: Proportional to height.

Body Length: Bottom edge of

The coat will be long enough to fall just coat extends 3 to 3 ½ inches below below the mid-point of the buttock.

the top of the thigh.

Sleeve Length: Sleeves will come

Sleeve Length: The sleeve will to the heel of the thumb with arms extend approximately ¼" from the hanging naturally, but will not exceed heel of the thumb.

1" beyond the heel of the thumb. Shirt cuffs will not be exposed. After alterations are complete, size variances between sleeves must not exceed 1/4" when worn.

WOMEN’S SERVICE DRESS COAT DARK BLUE

Front /Rear view: The front of the

Front /Rear view:

Coat will overlap and the coat will fall

NOT COVERED

smoothly over the hips, (one inch ease at each side) hang straight and be even at the bottom. The row of buttons will be straight from top to bottom when buttoned.

WOMEN’S ALL WEATHER COAT (OUTER GARMENT)

All-weather coat with liner

All weather coat with liner

(outer garment).

(outer garment).

Fitting: Coat is free falling

Fitting: Coat is free falling from from shoulders to hem. Fitted over the shoulder to hem. Coat, fitted with blue coat with liner zipped inside with liner, will be loose enough to give only top chest button buttoned. Must be freedom of movement.

loose enough to give freedom of movement when rendering a salute.

Body Length: Must cover

Body Length: Length will be a skirt. Maximum length is 6” minimum of ½” longer than below the back crease of the knee.

service skirt. Maximum length is 6” below the back crease of the knee.

Sleeve Length: Must cover

Sleeve Length: Sleeves will service dress coat sleeves, but no extend ½” beyond service dress longer than 1/2" beyond service coat sleeves.

coat sleeves. In all cases, after alterations are completed, sleeves must appear even when worn.

WOMEN’S SERVICE SKIRT

SKIRT

SKIRT

Fitting: Skirt will hang naturally

Fitting: Skirt will hang naturally over the hips, with a 1 inch ease at over the hips. The 1620 skirt will each side.

have a slight opening at front have pleats.

Waist: Should fit snug but

Waist: No bunching at waist or comfortably. The waist band should bagging at seat.

be even with top of the hip bone.

Body Length: Skirt length

Body Length: Skirt length will should be marked at the middle of be no shorter than the top of the kneecap. It will not be shorter than kneecap nor longer than the bottom the top of the kneecap, nor longer of the kneecap.

than the bottom of the kneecap. In all cases, after alterations are completed, the skirt hems must appear even when worn.

WOMEN’S 1620 SERVICE SLACKS

SLACKS

SLACKS

Fitting: Slacks will fit

Fitting: Slack will fit naturally naturally over the hips with no over the hips with no bunching at the bunching at the waist nor bagging waist nor bagging in the seat.

in seat. Pockets should not gap open or be under strain.

Length: The slacks will be marked

Length: Bottom front of slack and altered so the bottom of the slacks legs rest on the front of the shoe or hem will rest on the front of the shoes boot with a slight break in the crease.

with a slight break. When viewed from the back, the slack hem will be no longer than the shoe welt nor shorter than ½” above the welt. The slack legs will have no more than 1/8” variance between their respective lengths, but must in any case appear even when worn. If the hem does not meet this requirement, the performance is deemed unacceptable.

Break: The break when pinched

Break: Slight Break.

Shall not exceed ¾” total material when measured. If there is no break in the slack legs, the slacks will not be acceptable.

ILLUSTRATIONS

_1108905135.ppt

MALE 1620 SERVICE COAT- REAR VIEW

7. Ensure shirt collar show by ¼ - ½” over the top of the service coat.

8. Ensure the service coat fits with ease in the shoulders, chest, and underarms.

Ensure the back vent overlaps and hangs straight.

Ensure sleeves appears even when worn.

_1108905169.ppt

FEMALE 1620 SERVICE COAT-REAR VIEW

8. Ensure the shirt collar shows ¼ - ½”.

9. Ensure the coat fits with ease in the shoulders, chest and underarms.

10. Ensure the sleeves end at the heel of the thumb; but not to exceed one inch beyond the heel of the thumb. Sleeves must appear even when worn. Ensure the row of buttons are straight from top to bottom when buttoned.

11. Ensure the coat will be long enough to fall just below the mid-point of the buttocks.

_1108905199.ppt

FEMALE SLACKS

Ensure there is no bunching on the waist and the pockets do not gap open nor are under strain.

Ensure slacks fit naturally over the hip with no bagging at the seat.

Ensure bottom of the slack hem rests on the front of the shoes with a slight break, ensure the slack hem is no longer than the shoe welt nor shorter than ½ inch above the welt.

_1516604512.ppt

MALE TROUSERS-REAR VIEW

4. Ensure side pockets do not gap open or are under strain.

5. Ensure trousers are fitted without bagging at the seat.

6. Ensure trouser hem will be no longer than the shoe welt, nor shorter than 1/2” above the shoe welt.

_1108905184.ppt

FEMALE 1620 SERVICE SKIRT

Ensure the waist fits snugly, but comfortably.

Ensure the waistband rests on top of the hip bone.

Ensure the pockets do not gap open or are under strain.

Ensure the skirt fits over the hips and has a 2” ease (1” at each side).

Ensure the length is no shorter than the top of the kneecap; nor longer than the bottom of the kneecap.

_1108905150.ppt

FEMALE 1620 SERVICE COAT-FRONT VIEW

Ensure coat collar fits snugly around the neck without gaps or breaks under the neck.

Ensure the chest fits with approximately 1 ½ - 2” pull in the front.

Ensure the waist fits with a 4 – 5” ease (2 –2 ½” ease on each side).

Ensure the row of buttons are straight from top to bottom when buttoned.

Ensure the front of the coat overlaps, hangs straight, and is even at the bottom.

Ensure the length of the coat is proportional to the height.

Ensure the coat fits over the hips with 1” ease on ease side.

_1108904464.ppt

MALE 1620 SERVICE COAT- FRONT VIEW

Ensure ease in shoulders. Seams fitted to the extremities of the top of the shoulders.

Ensure the chest fits with approximately 1 ½ - 2” ease in the front.

Ensure the waist fits with a 4 – 5” ease (2 – 2 ½” ease on each side).

Ensure the front of the coat overlaps, coat fits smoothly over seat and is even at the bottom.

Ensure the row of buttons are straight, from top to bottom when buttoned.

Bottom of the coat sleeve should rest between the thumb knuckle and the end of the thumb