The file's text, extracted by GovTribe without its formatting.
11-PD-24-009
INCH-POUND
11-PD-24-009
5 March 2024
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
SLACKS, WOMAN’S, SERVICE DRESS
This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Space Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
Prepared by
AFLCMC/WNU
1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:
AFLCMC/WNU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.
1. SCOPE
1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for woman’s service dress slacks to be worn by United States Space Force (USSF) personnel.
1.2 Classification. The slacks are of the following types, as specified (see 6.2):
1.2.1 Types. The types of slacks are as follows:
| Type I – Straight |
| Type II – Curvy |
1.3 Schedule of lengths and sizes. The slacks are furnished in the following lengths and sizes:
Schedule of lengths and sizes.
| Straight |
| Short |
| 0 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 10 |
| 12 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| 24 |
| Regular |
| 0 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 10 |
| 12 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| 24 |
| Long |
| 0 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 10 |
| 12 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| 24 |
| Curvy |
| Short |
| 0 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 10 |
| 12 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| 24 |
| Regular |
| 0 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 10 |
| 12 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| 24 |
| Long |
| 0 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 10 |
| 12 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| 22 |
| 24 |
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.
2.2 Government documents.
2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
| A-A-50199 |
| Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered |
| A-A-55634 |
| Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) |
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
| MIL-B-13466 |
| Braid, Textile and Lace, Vellum, Woven, Texture (for Blue Dress Uniform) |
MIL-C-44296
MIL-DTL-15040
Cloth, Fusibles Label, Garment (Woven, Rayon)
| MIL-DTL-32075 |
| Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) |
| MIL-STD-656 |
| Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Women’s |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)
2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).
PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS
| 11-PD-24-012 |
| Cloth, Polyester, Wool, Elastane, Stretch |
| GL-PD 19011 |
| Cloth, Twill, Polyester and Polyester/Blend |
(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity.)
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
| AATCC TM8 |
| Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method |
| AATCC TM20 |
| Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative |
| AATCC TM20A |
| Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative |
| AATCC TM132 |
| Colorfastness to Drycleaning |
| AATCC EP 1 |
| AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change |
| AATCC EP 2 |
| AATCC Gray Scale for Staining |
| AATCC EP 8 |
| AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)
AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ANSI/ASQ)
| ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 |
| Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes |
(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
| ASTM D3775 |
| Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) of Woven Fabrics |
| ASTM D3776/ D3776M |
| Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric |
| ASTM D6193 |
| Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)
PANTONE
(Color is available online at https://pantone.com.)
2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3. REQUIREMENTS
3.1 Inspection.
3.1.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation (see 4.2). The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.
3.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to quality conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.
3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.
3.3 Design. The slacks shall have straight legs that are unhemmed, a two (2)-piece curved waistband (center back seam), two (2)-piece curved waistband facing, with seven (7) belt loops, a center front closure that consists of a zipper, one (1) hook and eye closure, two (2) front quarter top pockets, one (1) on each side, and two (2) hip double-welt pockets, one (1) on each side. The slacks shall have a braid attached to the left and right side seams that start at the waistband seam and end at the hem. Slacks shall have additional seam allowance (outlet) at the center back and inseams for alterations.
3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows the front view of the slacks. Figure 2 shows the back view of the slacks. Figure 3 shows the side view of the slacks. Figure 4 shows construction of the hip pocket. Figure 5 shows the logo label. Figure 6 shows the logo label placement. Figure 7 shows the combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label placement. Figure 8 shows a visual of how to measure the slacks. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.
3.5 Materials.
3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the slacks shall be a blend of 54 percent polyester, 44 percent worsted wool, 2 percent elastane, 2-up and 1-down right-hand twill cloth and shall conform to 11-PD-24-012, Class 2. The color shall be Space Force Shade Heather Charcoal 1691.
3.5.2 Interlining and pocketing.
3.5.2.1 Pocketing and bearer. The material for the slacks pocketing and bearer shall be 100 percent polyester conforming to GL-PD 19011, Class 4. Key pocketing and bearer requirements are listed in Table I and testing shall be as specified in Table VIII. The color shall be black.
TABLE I. List of key requirements of pocketing and bearer.
| Characteristic |
| Requirements |
| Fabric weight (oz./sq.yd.) |
| (2.5-3.00) |
Yarns per inch
Yarn size (denier)
| Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry) (min) |
| 3.0 |
3.6 Components.
3.6.1 Interlining. The interlining for the waistband, pocket facings, right fly, and hip pocket welt of the slacks shall be a nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 1, Style B. The shade shall be black or charcoal.
3.6.2 Zipper. The zipper shall be non-separating with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, No. 3 continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil, and a bottom stop conforming to A-A-55634, Type I, Style 4 or 5. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the coil, tape, and zipper pull shall be black. The dyed tape shall be tested in accordance with AATCC TM132, except the colorfastness shall show a rating of 4.0 to drycleaning as specified in Table VIII.
3.6.3 Hook and eye. The hook and eye size shall be #8 hook, #8 hook plate, #85 eye, and #85 eye plate. The hook and eye shall be zinc plated with a nickel finish. As an alternative, the hook and eye shall be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose.
3.6.4 Braid. The braid for the slacks shall conform to MIL-B-13466, Type II, Class 1, Style B with the exception for the color. The color of the braid shall be Space Force Shade Dark Navy 1693.
3.6.5 Thread. The cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core thread for general stitching of the slacks shall conform to A-A-50199 and be Tex 36-45, 2-ply. The thread shall be tested in accordance with the test methods as specified in A-A-50199.
3.6.5.1 Color. The color of the thread shall be a good match to Pantone 19-3907 TCX, Forged Iron, for all sewing threads.
3.6.6 Labels. Each pair of slacks shall have a logo label, a combination label (size, identification, care instruction), and a barcode label or certification label.
3.6.6.1 Logo label. The logo label shall conform to MIL-DTL-15040, Type II, except for the color, dimensions, and colorfastness to drycleaning test. The background color shall be a good match to Pantone 539 C, Dark Navy; the design and text shall be white. The dimensions shall be 2-5/16 inches wide by 5/8 inch tall (see Figure 5) or shall be a woven label of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose. For logo label placement, see Table V, Operation 22 and Figure 6. Colorfastness testing shall be in accordance with AATCC TM132 as specified in Table VIII.
3.6.6.2 Combination of size, identification, and care instruction label. The combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 14, or be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose (see Figure 7). The combination label shall be centered on the back right (as worn) pocket bag (see Table V, Operation 11). The contents of the combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label shall be as follows for slacks:
SIZE: 10 CURVY REGULAR OR 10 STRAIGHT REGULAR (EXAMPLE)
NSN #:
ITEM DESCRIPTION: SLACKS, WOMAN’S, SERVICE DRESS (EXAMPLE)
CONTRACT NUMBER:
CONTRACTOR NAME:
CONTENT: 54% POLYESTER, 44% WOOL, 2% ELASTANE (EXAMPLE)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Professional Dry Clean Only
Low Moisture Steam Press
DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL
MADE IN USA
3.6.6.3 Barcode label. At a minimum and unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each item shall have a Universal Product Code (UPC) label in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075, Type VIII, Class 17. The UPC barcode shall be completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.
3.6.6.4 Certification label. The certification label for the slacks shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, and include item description, contractor name, fabric content, and the Department of the Air Force (DAF) certification information, or shall be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose and labeled in accordance with the operating procedures under the DAF Optional Uniform Certification Procedures document. The placement of the certification label shall be centered on the back left (as worn) pocket bag (see Table V, Operation 11).
SLACKS, WOMAN’S, SERVICE DRESS, HEATHER CHARCOAL 1691
CONTRACTOR NAME:
54% POLYESTER/44% WOOL/2% ELASTANE
DAF CERTIFICATION NO. __________. A SAMPLE OF THIS ITEM HAS BEEN INSPECTED AND MEETS OR EXCEEDS THE QUALITY PRESCRIBED BY _(DOCUMENT)____. THE MANUFACTURER CERTIFIES THAT THIS ITEM MEETS THE QUALITY OF SAMPLE APPROVED BY DAF
3.7 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns showing directional lines, size, pocket placement, and notches for the proper assembling unless otherwise specified (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except the additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as specified in Table II.
TABLE II. Seam allowance.
| 1/4 inch |
| For pocket bags and pocket facings to bags |
| 3/8 inch |
| For front rise and back rise up to seat notch, waistband, fly, and pocket openings |
| 1/2 inch |
| For outseams and inseams below knee notch |
| 1 inch |
| Inseam at crotch and tapering to 1/2 inch at knee notch for thigh outlet |
| 1-1/4 inches |
| At center back waistband, to allow for tapering the seat outlet, tapers to 3/8 inch at back crotch seam notch |
3.7.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the slacks shall be cut from the materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table III.
[This space is intentionally left blank]
TABLE III. List of pattern parts.
| Material |
| Pattern Nomenclature |
| CAD Pattern Names |
| Cut Parts |
Type I – Straight
Basic material (see 3.5.1)
| Front Pocket Yoke |
| PKTYOKE |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket Facing |
| PKTFACE |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Welt |
| HPKTWELT |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Facing |
| HPKTFAC |
| 2 |
Pocketing (see 3.5.2)
Interlining (see 3.6.1)
| Right Waistband Interlining |
| RWBNDFUS |
| 2 |
| Left Waistband Interlining |
| LWBNDFUS |
| 2 |
| Pocket Facing Interlining |
| PKTFACEFUS |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Welt Interlining |
| HPKTWELTFUS |
| 2 |
| Right Fly Interlining |
| RFLYFUS |
| 1 |
Type II – Curvy
Basic Material (see 3.5.1)
| Front Pocket Yoke |
| PKTYOKE |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket Facing |
| PKTFACE |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Welt |
| HPKTWELT |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Facing |
| HPKTFAC |
| 2 |
Pocketing (see 3.5.2)
Interlining (see 3.6.1)
| Right Waistband Interlining |
| RWBNDFUS |
| 2 |
| Left Waistband Interlining |
| LWBNDFUS |
| 2 |
| Pocket Facing Interlining |
| PKTFACEFUS |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Welt Interlining |
| HPKTWELTFUS |
| 2 |
| Right Fly Interlining |
| RFLYFUS |
| 1 |
3.8 Construction. The slacks shall be constructed as specified in Table V; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed as long as the resultant slacks are exactly the same as the slacks made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table V shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the slacks shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished slacks.
3.8.1 Stitches and seams. Stitches and seams, as specified in Table V, shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seams or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the slacks. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the slacks. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.
3.8.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitches overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread, or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.
3.8.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:
a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back from the end of the stitching.
b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/
| 1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be |
| backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors. |
CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.
3.8.1.2 Types 401, 406, 502, 503 and 504 stitching and repairs. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished slacks. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.1.1 a. and b. except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.
3.8.1.3 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.
3.8.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.
CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.
3.8.2 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table IV. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.
TABLE IV. Placement of bartacks.
| Bartack Location |
| Size of Bartack |
| Stitches |
per Bartack
| No. of Bartacks per Location |
| Total No. of Bartacks |
| Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack 1/4 inch down from waistband seam |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack on bottom of pocket opening |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| Belt Loops - Horizontal bartack bottom of inside belt loop 3/8 inch below waistband seam |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 7 |
| Belt Loops - Horizontal bartack top of belt loop 1/8 inch down from top of fold |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 7 |
| Hip Welt Pocket - Vertical bartack on both sides of pocket opening |
| 1/2 in. |
| 28-32 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
| Front Fly - Horizontal bartack at bottom end of J-stitch |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
3.8.3 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the slacks shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.7.1 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table III.
3.9 Manufacturing operation requirements. The slacks shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table V. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table V, providing the seam and stitch type are as specified, and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification.
3.9.1 Shade and size marking. The cut parts of each pair of slacks shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each pair of slacks. Any method may be used except:
| a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. |
| b. Sew-on type tickets. |
c. Adhesive type tickets which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.
d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.
3.9.2 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table V are as follows:
| ABLT |
| - |
| Automatic Belt Loop Tacker |
TABLE V. Table of operations.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
a. Cut the slacks in accordance with the patterns, which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets, drill marks for position of darts, and notches for proper assembly of parts.
b. Spread the basic material without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic material.
c. All parts of slacks made from the basic material shall be cut from the same piece of basic material, except parts that may be cut from ends. The front pocket facings, belt loops, and fly pieces (right and left) may be cut from ends but shall approximate the shade of the other parts of the slacks.
d. Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with Operation 8.
Cut the fusible interlining material for the waistband, pocket facings, right fly, and hip pocket welts.
Cut the material for the pocket bearers, hip pocket bags, and welt pocket bags in the warp direction, following the directional lines on the patterns.
Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the slacks to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the slacks.
| 5. |
| Replace defective or damaged parts. |
a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.
b. Replace any part cut of the fusible interlining if it exhibits any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling.
TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 5. |
| Replace defective or damaged parts – Continued. |
c. Replace any part the of slacks damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that shall be visible on the outside of the finished slacks.
a. Position the right and left waistband fusible pieces to the right and left waistband pieces with edges set back 1/8 inch from the waist pieces. Fuse the interlining to the right and left waistband pieces.
b. Position the right fly fusible interlining piece to the right fly piece with the edges set back 1/8 inch from the right fly piece. Fuse the interlining to the right fly piece.
c. Position the hip pocket welt fusible interlining pieces to the hip pocket welt pieces with the edges set back 1/8 inch from the hip pocket welt pieces. Fuse the interlining to the hip pocket welt pieces.
d. Position the front pocket facing fusible interlining pieces to the front pocket facing pieces with the edges set back 1/8 inch from the front pocket facing pieces. Fuse the interlining to the front pocket facing pieces.
| a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the outseams, inseams, and bottom of the legs. |
| 502 or 503 or 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
| b. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the center front seam and the seat seam. |
| 502 or 503 or 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
| c. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the curved edge of the right fly. |
| 502 or 503 or 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
| d. Overedge the waistbands, ensuring notches are visible. |
| 502 or 503 or 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
| 8. |
| Make stripping for belt loops. |
| Turn the stripping with both edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center. Stitch with the covering stitch on the underside. The width of the finished stripping shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping shall incorporate a stiffener. |
| 406 |
| EFh-1 |
| 10-12 |
NOTE: Automated equipment may be used for this operation.
| 9. |
| Make right and left fly. |
Finished appearance: The edges of the chain of the zipper in the finished slacks shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the edge of the top and 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the edge at the bottom. The flies and the waistband shall lie smoothly when the finished slacks are closed.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 9. |
| Make right and left fly – Continued. |
| a. Stitch the back edge of the zipper tape to the right fly with two (2) rows of stitching. |
| 301 or 401 |
| LSbj-2 |
| 10-12 |
NOTE: The ends of the scoops shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch when the zipper is cut and the scoops are removed.
| b. Fold the left fly in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and overedge stitch raw edges. |
| 504 |
| SSa-1 |
| 8-10 |
| c. After the zipper is cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the zipper tape to the back edge of the left fly, with the bottom end of the scoops 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch. |
| 301 |
| LSbj-1 |
| 10-12 |
| Fold and stitch the darts as indicated on the pattern. Turn the folded edge of the dart toward the seat seam on the inside of the slacks. The lower edge of the dart shall finish in the hip pocket welt opening. |
| 301 |
| OSf-1 |
| 10-12 |
NOTE: Automated equipment may be used for this operation.
| 11. |
| Make hip welt pockets and attach certification or combination of size, identification, and care instruction label. |
Finished appearance: The finished pockets shall be in alignment, uniform in width and depth, and 5-1/4 to 5-1/2 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish 5 inches (±1/8 inch) long for sizes 6 and above, and 4-1/2 inches for sizes 4 and below.
| a. The combination label shall be positioned on the center of the left hip (as worn) welt pocket bag. Center the combination label 1 inch below pocket facing stitch line and edgestitch 1/16 inch on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. If certification label is required, position certification label on the right hip (as worn) welt pocket bag. Center the certification label 1 inch below pocket facing stitch line and edgestitch 1/16 inch on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. |
| 301 |
| LSbj-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Turn the top and lower edge of the welt pocket facing to clean finish and seam to the pocket at the notches. If the welt pocket facing piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Position the hip pocket welt piece on the outside of the slacks, as indicated by the solid line on the pattern, with the pocketing placed on the underside. Stitch to the slacks through the pocketing with two (2) rows of stitching. |
| 301 |
| SSbe-2(a) |
| 10-12 |
| d. Cut the opening between the rows of stitching through all plies simultaneously. Turn the lower part of the welt piece through the cut opening and raise stitch forming a 1/8 to 3/16 inch welt edge. |
| 301 |
| SSbe-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 11. |
| Make hip welt pockets and attach certification or combination of size, identification, and care instruction label – Continued. |
| e. Turn the raw edge of the welt piece and seam to the pocketing. If the welt piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| f. Smooth out the pocketing with raw edges turned in and single stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge. The stitching may extend across the bottom folded edge. The ends of the welt pocket facing, and the welt piece shall be caught by the edge stitching only. As an alternative, fold pocket with raw edges turned to inside and stitch sides and bottom pocket 1/8 inch from pocket edge. |
| 301 |
| SSc-1 |
| 10-12 |
| g. Form a 1/8 to 3/16 inch welt on upper edge of the pocket opening. Raise stitch the seam through the slacks, welt piece, welt pocket facing, and pocketing, closing the top of the pocket. |
| 301 |
| LSq-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| h. Bartack the ends of the pocket opening, vertically, 1/2 inch through the welt, the welt pocket facing, and the pocketing as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
28-32 per Brtck
NOTE: Raise stitch the joining seam of the lower piping piece through the back of the slacks and the piping piece only. Raise stitch the joining seam of the top piping piece through all plies, closing the top of the pocket. The ends of the pocket openings shall be securely bartacked.
| a. Overedge stitch the raw inner edges and lower edges of the front pocket facing and the front pocket yoke. |
| 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
| b. Place the front pocket facing on the pocket bag; turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner side, and across the lower end. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Place the front pocket yoke on the pocket bag, aligning the notches on the top edge; turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner (straight) side and across lower end, stopping 1-1/4 inches from pocket bag. Figure 4 shows visual operations for making front pockets. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| 13. |
| Attach front pockets and bearers. |
Finished appearance: The edges of the pocket openings shall not be distorted. The finished pocket openings shall be uniform in length and shall be not more than 1/8 inch out of alignment. The top of the pocket opening shall be positioned 1 inch from the finished outseam.
| a. Seam a pocket to each front at the pocket opening, first perpendicular to the cut edge, then pivot at the corner and continue to the waist. Clip into corner. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(a) |
| 10-12 |
| b. Turn each pocket to the finished position with the seam rolled to the underside and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from front edge. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| c. Fold the pocket bag, right sides together, and stitch the lower edge in a 3/16 to 1/4 inch seam. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 13. |
| Attach front pockets and bearers – Continued. |
d. Turn the pocket to the finished position, matching the pocket opening to notch on the waistline. Figure 4 shows visual operations for attaching front pockets.
| e. Stitch the pocket bearer to the folded edge of the pocket bag and stitch 1/4 inch seam. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| f. Stitch the center front of the pocket bearer to the center front of the pant 1/4 inch from the edge. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| g. Create pleat in bearer piece at double notches and stay stitch to front 1/4 inch from edge. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
Finished appearance: The finished fly shall be even at the ends when the flies are joined to the crotch seam. The fly shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the zipper is closed. The top corner of the right fly and of the left fly shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the right fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the right fly to the front shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks when the zipper is closed. The left fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks. The finished fly shall be smooth without twist, puckers, or excessive fullness.
| a. Sew the right fly (with the zipper attached) to the right front with the notches matching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Sew the left fly (with the zipper attached) to the left front with the notches matching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Edgestitch the right fly 1/16 inch from the seamed edge. Turn to the finished position and stitch approximately 1-1/4 inches from the front edge at the top following the configuration of the fly, stitching, and tapering off to the notch at the bottom to create J-stitch. |
| 301 |
| LSbj-1 |
| 10-12 |
| d. Turn the left fly to the inside and edgestitch 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the turned edge. |
| 301 |
| SSe-1 |
| 10-12 |
| a. Join the outseams, with the notches matched, catching the pocket yoke piece but not the pocket bag. Figure 4 shows visual operations for joining the outseam with front pockets. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
b. Press the outseams open from the bottom of the unhemmed bottom edge to the top of the slacks.
| c. Set braid to back panel aligning with outseam and stitch on each side of braid 1/8 inch from edge of braid. |
| 301 |
| SSs-2 |
| 10-12 |
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 16. |
| Finish front pockets. |
Turn in the back edge of the side pocket bag 1/2 inch and tack to the seam allowance of the back in three (3) places (top, middle, and bottom). Continue the stitching around the pocket to the folded edge and securely backstitch the end of the seam. Figure 4 shows visual operations for finishing the front pockets.
| a. Join inseams with 1/2 inch seam allowance from hem to knee notch then continue to 1 inch at crotch seam. The seam shall finish evenly and notches shall match. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
b. Press the inseams open and flat.
| The folded edge of all darts may be tacked before the waistband is attached to the slacks. Fold darts toward seat seam. |
| 301 |
| Ose-1 |
| 10-12 |
| 19. |
| Attach front, side, and side back belt loops to slacks. |
Finished appearance: The belt loops are stitched (encased) in the waistband seam at bottom. The belt loops are bartacked 3/8 inch below the seam that joins the waistband to the slacks. Belt loops are turned under and bartacked securely at the top of the waistband, 1/8 inch from top edge through all plies. The belt loop shall have enough ease to allow for a 1-1/4 inches wide belt to easily thread. The finished belt loop shall measure 1-1/2 to 1-5/8 inches from top to bottom folded edge.
NOTE: There shall be seven (7) belt loops on the slacks.
| a. Stitch one (1) belt loop on each front panel centered between outseam and center front, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| 301 |
| SSaa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Stitch one (1) belt loop at each back panel at side seam, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| 301 |
| SSaa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Stitch one (1) belt loop on each back, centered on darts. An additional belt loop shall be sewn at center back after closing seat seam. |
| 301 |
| SSaa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| NOTE: If an automatic belt loop tacker is used, the front, side, and side back belt loops shall be located as above in Operations 19a, 19b, and 19c. The center back belt loop shall be attached in Operation 24. |
| ABLT |
| a. Sew outer right and left waistband at center back. Press seam open. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
b. Sew inner right and left waistband at center back. Press seam open.
c. Join waistbands at top. Turn seam to inside of waistband and edgestitch 1/16 from edge.
SSa-1 LSbj-1 10-12 10-12
NOTE: Stitching should be visible on the inside of the waistband only.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 21. |
| Attach waistband, join crotch and seat seams. |
Finished appearance: The top edge of the zipper chain and the tape shall extend beyond the waistband seam a minimum of 3/8 inch, shall be encased within the waistband, and shall be caught in the waistband edge stitching. The finished left waistband shall be flush with left fly. The finished right waistband shall be flush with the fold of the right fly. The finished waistband shall be 1-1/2 inches (±1/8 inch) wide. The crotch and seat seam shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain encountered in sitting or stooping. The crotch and seat seam shall be joined so the inseams shall meet. The base of the right fly shall cover the left fly on the outside of the finished slacks.
| a. Join the crotch and seat seam from the base of the flies to the top of slacks using a tandem needle seat seamer or a single row of stitching with double thread through the needle. The stitching of the outlet seam allowance at the center back shall be gradually increased from 3/8 inch at the base of flies to 1-1/4 inches at the waist. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-2 |
| 10-12 |
b. Press the crotch and seat seam open.
c. Sew the waistband to top of slacks, working in fullness evenly between the notches at the front and catching the top ends of the zipper tape and the top of the pockets in the stitching.
301 or 401
SSa-1
10-12
| 22. |
| Finish waistband with labels. |
| a. Fold the waistbands in half, right sides together. Seam across front ends. Trim, turn, work out the corners, and press. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Attach logo label at wearer’s inside left back waistband with stitches at both vertical sides of label (see Figure 6). Logo label shall be placed 2 inches from center back and centered vertically on waistband. Stitches shall not be sewn through the printing. |
| 301 |
| SSaa |
| 10-12 |
| 23. |
| Attach hook and eye and complete waistband. |
a. Attach a hook through a suitable reinforcement to the right waistband as follows: Position the hook evenly in vertical alignment on the edge of the right waistband so the rolled edge of the hook shall be aligned with the zipper scoops.
b. Attach an eye through a suitable reinforcement to the waistband as follows: Position the eye in vertical alignment on the left waistband so the eye shall be aligned with the zipper scoops.
| c. Stitch slacks at the bottom of the waistband, catching the inside overedged portion (stitch in the ditch). |
| 301 |
| BSf-2 |
| 10-12 |
NOTE: When the hook and eye of the finished slacks are engaged, the closure of the slacks shall not bulge, pucker, or twist.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 24. |
| Attach center back belt loop and finish all belt loops. |
Finished appearance: The tacking shall extend the width of the belt loop but not beyond. The opening in the finished loop shall measure 1-1/2 to 1-5/8 inches.
| a. Place one (1) belt loop centered on the center back seam butted up to the bottom edge of the waistband and stitch the belt loop over the center back seam 1/8 inch below the bottom edge of the waistband. |
| 301 |
| LSbk-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Bartack belt loops 3/8 inch from bottom of the waistband, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| c. Turn under top end of each belt loop 1/4 inch and bartack to slacks 1/8 inch below top edge of waistband, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
NOTE: If an automatic belt loop tacker is used, all belt loops shall be attached in this operation using the location and dimensions prescribed for the manually attached belt loops. Each end of the belt loop shall be turned under 1/4 inch and attached with a bartack 1/8 inch from the turned end of the belt loop as indicated in Table IV.
Attach the slider with the ends of the chain even. Install the stop at the bottom, overlapping the scoops. The stop shall be within 3/8 inch of fly notch. The end of tape shall extend at least 1/8 inch below notch.
NOTE: Bottom stop shall not be attached more than 1/2 inch above fly notch.
Finished appearance: The bartacks shall be well made and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified.
| a. Bartack the upper end of each pocket opening 1/4 inch below the waistband seam, horizontally. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening, horizontally. The bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
NOTE: The distance between the bartacks of each opening shall be not less than 5-3/4 inches or more than 6-1/4 inches.
| b. Bartack the slacks at the base of the fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack shall be in line with the stitching at the base of zipper, horizontally, and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| Baste hip pockets closed. |
| 301 |
6-8
Trim thread ends and remove loose threads. Remove spots, stains, and shade or size markings.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
All pressing required shall be done with a heated pressing iron or machine.
a. Press top of slacks smooth and flat.
b. Place legs seam on seam and press slacks smooth and flat, creasing legs. The ends of the creases shall not be more than 1 inch higher or lower than the junction of the inseams at the crotch.
3.10 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the slacks shall conform to Tables VI or VII when measured according to method 3.10.1. All measurements shall be in inches.
TABLE VI. Finished measurements for the Type I – Straight (inches).
Hip (B)
(D) Back Rise (E) Inseam (F)
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| 0 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 11-3/4 |
| 9-5/8 |
| 10-1/8 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 14-1/8 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 2 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 18 |
| 12 |
| 9-3/4 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 4 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18-1/2 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 9-7/8 |
| 10-3/8 |
| 10-7/8 |
| 14-3/8 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 15-3/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 6 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 19 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 10 |
| 10-1/2 |
| 11 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 15 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 8 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 10-1/8 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 15-5/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 10 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 20 |
| 13 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 12 |
| 16 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 11-5/8 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 15-5/8 |
| 16-1/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 14 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 21-1/2 |
| 14 |
| 11 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 12 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 16 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 16 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 11-3/8 |
| 11-7/8 |
| 12-3/8 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 16-3/8 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 18 |
| 18-1/2 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 12 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 13 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 17 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 20 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 12-5/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 13-5/8 |
| 17-1/8 |
| 17-5/8 |
| 18-1/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 22 |
| 20-1/2 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-3/8 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 24 |
| 21-1/2 |
| 26-1/4 |
| 17 |
| 13-7/8 |
| 14-3/8 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 18-7/8 |
| 19-3/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| Tolerance |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
TABLE VII. Finished measurements for the Type II – Curvy (inches).
Hip (B)
(D) Back Rise (E) Inseam
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| 0 |
| 12 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 12 |
| 9-3/4 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 15-5/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 2 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 18 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 9-7/8 |
| 10-3/8 |
| 10-7/8 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 4 |
| 13 |
| 18-1/2 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 10 |
| 10-1/2 |
| 11 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 15-3/8 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 6 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 19 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 10-1/8 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 15 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 16 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 8 |
| 14 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 13 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 15-5/8 |
| 16-1/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 10 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 20 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 10-3/8 |
| 10-7/8 |
| 11-3/8 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 12 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 11-3/4 |
| 15-3/8 |
| 16-1/8 |
| 16-5/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 14 |
| 16 |
| 21-1/2 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 11-5/8 |
| 12-1/8 |
| 16 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 17 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 16 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 12 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 16-3/8 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 17-3/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 18 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-3/8 |
| 12-1/8 |
| 12-5/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 17 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 18 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 20 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 16 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 17-5/8 |
| 18-1/8 |
| 18-5/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 22 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-5/8 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 13-7/8 |
| 14-3/8 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| 24 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 26-1/4 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 14 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 15 |
| 18-7/8 |
| 19-3/8 |
| 19-7/8 |
| 34 |
| 36 |
| 38 |
| Tolerance |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
3.10.1 Method of measurement. The slacks shall be laid smooth and flat, with zipper closed, waistband hooked, and measured at the specified locations (see Figure 8 for a visual of how to measure the slacks).
| (A) |
| 1/2 Waist |
| Align front and back waistband at top edge and measure straight across the top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge. |
| (B) |
| 1/2 Hip |
| Measure across slacks at the bottom of the front pocket openings from folded edge to folded edge. |
| (C) |
| 1/2 Thigh |
| Measure across the leg of garment, at the crotch seam, from folded edge to folded edge. |
| (D) |
| Front rise |
| Measure from the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, following the curve of the rise. |
| (E) |
| Back rise |
| At the back of the garment, measure from the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, following the curve of the rise. |
Inseam
Measure along inseam from crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom edge.
3.11 Workmanship. The finished slacks shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each pair of slacks shall be examined closed, zipped, hooked, pressed, and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. The slacks containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in MIL-STD-656. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels as specified in the contract.
4. VERIFICATION
4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:
a. First article/pilot lot inspection (see 4.2)
b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)
c. Component and material inspection (see 4.4)
d. End item exam (see 4.6)
e. End item dimensional inspection (see 4.7)
4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The first article and/or pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1.1. The sample size shall be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.
4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this specification. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.
4.4 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.
4.4.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table VIII shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing shall be followed as specified in Table VIII. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:
| 801 to 22,000 inclusive |
| 3 |
The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:
| Component |
| Lot size unit |
| Sample unit |
| Zipper tape |
| Piece |
| 5 Each size |
| Pocketing and bearer |
| Yard |
| 2 Linear |
TABLE VIII. Component tests.
| Component |
| Characteristic |
| Requirement |
| Test Method |
Pocketing and bearer
| Weight – oz/sq yd |
| 3.5.2.1 |
| ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C |
| Fiber identification |
| 3.5.2.1 |
| AATCC TM20 |
| Fiber content polyester % |
| 3.5.2.1 |
| AATCC TM20A |
| Warp and filling yarns per inch |
| 3.5.2.1 |
| ASTM D3775 |
| Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry) |
| 3.5.2.1 |
| AATCC TM8 1/, 2/ |
| Zipper tape |
| Colorfastness to drycleaning |
| 3.6.2 |
| AATCC TM132 3/ |
| Logo Label |
| Colorfastness to drycleaning |
| 3.6.6.1 |
| AATCC TM132 3/ |
1/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
3/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC EP 2, AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
4.5 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects. Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.
4.6 End item exam. The end item shall be examined for compliance with 3.3 through 3.11. The slacks shall be examined for defects in material, design, construction, dimensions, and workmanship in accordance with MIL-STD-656 for slacks. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection.
4.7 End item dimensional inspection. The slacks shall be examined for conformance to the dimension specified in Tables VI and VII. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of slacks. The inspection and AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.
4.8 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of section 3 and all inspections of section 4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements or the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.
4.9 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.
5. PACKAGING
5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s System Commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD‑ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.
6. NOTES
(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)
6.1 Intended use. The slacks are intended for wear by USSF personnel.
6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:
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