The file's text, extracted by GovTribe without its formatting.
INCH-POUND
11-PD-24-001
5 March 2024
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE DRESS
This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Space Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
Prepared by
AFLCMC/WNU
1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:
AFLCMC/WNU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.
AMSC N/A
FSC 8405
11-PD-24-001
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.
1. SCOPE
1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for man’s service dress trousers to be worn by United States Space Force (USSF) personnel.
1.2 Schedule of lengths and sizes. The trousers are furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2):
Schedule of lengths and sizes.
| X-Short |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| Short |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
| Regular |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
| Long |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
| X-Long |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.
2.2 Government documents.
2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
| A-A-50128 |
| Cloth, Interlining: Nonwoven |
| A-A-50198 |
| Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole |
| A-A-50199 |
| Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered |
| A-A-55634 |
| Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) |
| A-A-59992 |
| Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton And Synthetic |
| A-A-59994 |
| Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) |
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
| MIL-B-13466 |
| Braid, Textile and Lace, Vellum, Woven, Texture (for Blue Dress Uniform) |
| MIL-C-44296 |
| Cloth, Fusibles |
| MIL-DTL-15040 |
| Labels, Garment (Woven, Rayon) |
| MIL-DTL-32075 |
| Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) |
| MIL-STD-1488 |
| Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)
2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).
PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS
| 11-PD-24-012 |
| Cloth, Polyester, Wool, Elastane, Stretch |
| GL-PD 19011 |
| Cloth, Twill, Polyester and Polyester/Blend |
(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity.)
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
| AATCC TM8 |
| Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method |
| AATCC TM20 |
| Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative |
| AATCC TM20A |
| Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative |
| AATCC TM132 |
| Colorfastness to Drycleaning |
| AATCC EP 1 |
| AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change |
| AATCC EP 2 |
| AATCC Gray Scale for Staining |
| AATCC EP 8 |
| AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)
AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ANSI/ASQ)
| ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 |
| Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes |
(Copies of this document is available online at https://asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
| ASTM D3775 |
| Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics |
| ASTM D3776/ D3776M |
| Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric |
| ASTM D6193 |
| Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)
PANTONE
(Color is available online at https://pantone.com.)
2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3. REQUIREMENTS
3.1 Inspection.
3.1.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation (see 4.2). The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.
3.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.
3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.
3.3 Design. The trousers shall have a sewn-on waistband with one (1) hook and eye closure, seven (7) belt loops, a one (1)-piece French fly with a zipper closure and one (1) button (fly with integrated tab), a quarter top pocket on each side, and two (2) double-welt pockets on the back. The closure of the back left double-welt pocket shall consist of one (1) buttonhole tab and one (1) button. The trousers shall have a braid attached to the left and right side seams starting at the waistband seam to hem. Trousers shall have additional seam allowance (outlet) at the center back and inseams for alterations.
3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows the front view of the trousers. Figure 2 shows the back view of the trousers. Figure 3 shows the side view of the trousers. Figure 4 shows construction of the hip pocket. Figure 5 shows the logo label. Figure 6 shows the logo label placement. Figure 7 shows the combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label placement. Figure 8 shows a visual of how to measure the trousers. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.
3.5 Materials.
3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall be a blend of 54 percent polyester, 44 percent worsted wool, 2 percent elastane, 2-up and 1-down right-hand twill cloth and shall conform to 11-PD-24-012, Class 2. The color shall be Space Force Shade Heather Charcoal 1691.
3.5.2 Interlining and pocketing.
3.5.2.1 Pocketing and lining. The material for the trousers pocketing and lining shall be 100 percent polyester conforming to GL-PD 19011, Class 4. Key pocketing and lining requirements are listed in Table I and testing shall be as specified in Table VII. The lining shall be used at the right fly lining and the crotch. The color shall be black.
TABLE I. List of key requirements for pocketing and lining.
| Characteristic |
| Requirements |
| Fabric weight (oz./sq.yd.) |
| (2.5-3.00) |
Yarns per inch
Yarn size (denier)
| Colorfastness to crocking (wet and dry) (min) |
| 3.0 |
3.6 Components.
3.6.1 Interlining. The interlining for the left fly, front pockets, and hip pockets of the trousers shall be a nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 1, Style B. The shade shall be black or charcoal.
3.6.2 Waistband interlining. The interlining for the waistband shall be bleached or unbleached buckram conforming to A-A-59992, Type II. As an alternate, a nonwoven cloth, natural color conforming to A-A-50128, Type III may be used for the waistband interlining.
3.6.3 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be non-rollover type cloth conforming to A-A-59992, Type I, Class I.
3.6.4 Rubberized waistband lining construction. The waistband lining shall be white or natural in color, with at least two (2) rows of rubberized thread woven or stitched to tape. As an alternative, the waistband lining may be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) using lining, stabilizer, and rubberized inside track. If a commercial type of rubberized waistband lining is not used, the contractor may manufacture one (see Table V, Operation 19).
3.6.5 Zipper. The zipper shall be non-separating with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, No. 3 continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil, and a bottom stop conforming to A-A-55634, Type I, Style 4 or 5. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the coil, tape, and zipper pull shall be black. The dyed tape shall be tested in accordance with AATCC TM132, except the colorfastness shall show a rating of 4.0 to drycleaning as specified in Table VII.
3.6.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye size shall be #8 hook, #8 hook plate, #85 eye, and #85 eye plate. The hook and eye shall be zinc plated with a nickel finish. As an alternative, the hook and eye shall be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose.
3.6.7 Button. The button shall conform to A-A-59994, Type I, Class 1, Style 4, 22 ligne and shall be black.
3.6.8 Braid. The braid for the trousers shall conform to MIL-B-13466, Type II, Class 1, Style B with the exception for the color. The color of the braid shall be Space Force Shade Dark Navy 1693.
3.6.9 Thread. The cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core thread for general stitching of the trousers shall conform to A-A-50199 and be Tex 36-45, 2-ply. The thread used for automatic button sewing shall be polyester core, conforming to A-A-50199, Type I, cotton covered or Type II, polyester-covered, Tex 61-70, 2- or 3-ply. The thread shall be tested in accordance with the test methods as specified in A-A-50199.
3.6.9.1 Color. The color of the thread shall be a good match to Pantone 19-3907 TCX, Forged Iron for all sewing threads.
3.6.9.2 Thread (gimp) for reinforcement buttonholes. The thread (gimp) for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198, soft finish Tex 210, or glazed finish Tex 180 or 210. The color shall be a good match to the basic material or Pantone 19-3907 TCX, Forged Iron.
3.6.10 Labels. Each pair of trousers shall have a logo label, a combination label (size, identification, care instruction), and a barcode label or certification label.
3.6.10.1 Logo label. The logo label shall conform to MIL-DTL-15040, Type II, except for the color, dimensions, and the colorfastness to drycleaning test. The background color shall be a good match to Pantone 539 C, Dark Navy; the design and text shall be white. The dimensions shall be 2-5/16 inches wide by 5/8 inch tall (see Figure 5) or shall be a woven label of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose. For logo label placement, see Table V, Operation 24 and Figure 6. Colorfastness testing shall be in accordance with AATCC TM132 as specified in Table VII.
3.6.10.2 Combination of size, identification, and care instruction label. The combination of the size, identification, and care instruction label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 14, or be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose (see Figure 7). The combination label shall be centered on the back right (as worn) pocket bag (see Table V, Operation 12). The contents of the combination of identification, size, and care instruction label shall be as follows for trousers:
SIZE: 34 REGULAR (EXAMPLE)
NSN #:
ITEM DESCRIPTION: TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE DRESS (EXAMPLE)
CONTRACT NUMBER:
CONTRACTOR NAME:
CONTENT: 54% POLYESTER, 44% WOOL, 2% ELASTANE (EXAMPLE)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Professional Dry Clean Only
Low Moisture Steam Press
DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL
MADE IN USA
3.6.10.3 Barcode label. At a minimum and unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, each item shall have a Universal Product Code (UPC) label in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075, Type VIII, Class 17. The UPC barcode shall be completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged. The barcodes shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.
3.6.10.4 Certification label. The certification label for the trousers shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, and include item description, contractor name, fabric content, and the Department of the Air Force (DAF) certification information, or shall be of equal commercial quality (see 6.6) and suitable for the intended purpose and labeled in accordance with the operating procedures under the DAF Optional Uniform Certification Procedures document. The placement of the certification label shall be centered on the back left (as worn) pocket bag (see Table V, Operation 12).
TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE DRESS, HEATHER CHARCOAL 1691
CONTRACTOR NAME:
54% POLYESTER/ 44% WOOL/ 2% ELASTANE
DAF CERTIFICATION NO. __________. A SAMPLE OF THIS ITEM HAS BEEN INSPECTED AND MEETS OR EXCEEDS THE QUALITY PRESCRIBED BY _(DOCUMENT)____. THE MANUFACTURER CERTIFIES THAT THIS ITEM MEETS THE QUALITY OF SAMPLE APPROVED BY DAF
3.7 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns showing directional lines, size, pocket placement, and notches for the proper assembling unless otherwise specified (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except the additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as specified in Table II.
TABLE II. Seam allowance.
| 1/4 inch |
| For pocket bagging, pocket facing to bag |
| 3/8 inch |
| For front rise and back rise up to seat notch, waistband, fly, and pocket openings |
| 1/2 inch |
| For outseams and inseams below knee notch |
| 1 inch |
| Inseam at crotch and tapering to 1/2 inch at knee notch for thigh outlet |
| 1-1/4 inches |
| At center back waistband, to allow for tapering the seat outlet, tapers to 3/8 inch at back crotch seam notch |
3.7.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from the materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table III.
TABLE III. List of pattern parts.
| Material |
| Pattern Nomenclature |
| CAD Pattern Names |
| Cut Parts |
Basic material (see 3.5.1)
| Front Pocket Yoke |
| FPYOKE |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket Facing |
| FPKTFAC |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Facing |
| HPKTFAC |
| 2 |
| Hip Pocket Welt |
| HPKTWELT |
| 2 |
| Belt Loops and Tab |
| LOOPS_TAB |
| 1 |
Pocketing and lining (see 3.5.2.1)
| Right Fly Lining |
| RFLYLINING |
| 1 |
| Hip Pocket Bag |
| HIPPKTBAG |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket Bag |
| FRTPKTBAG |
| 2 |
Interlining (see 3.6.1)
| Front Pocket Interlining |
| FPKTINTER |
| 2 |
| Left Fly Interlining |
| LFLYINTER |
| 1 |
| Hip Pocket Welt Interlining |
| HPKTWELTINT |
| 2 |
3.8 Construction. The trousers shall be constructed as specified in Table V; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed as long as the resultant trousers are exactly the same as the trousers made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table V shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the trousers shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished trousers.
3.8.1 Stitches and seams. Stitches and seams, as specified in Table V, shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seams or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the trousers. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trousers. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.
3.8.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitches overlap is required. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread, or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.
3.8.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:
a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back from the end of the stitching.
b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/
| 1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be |
| backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors. |
CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.
3.8.1.2 Type 401, 406, 502, 503, and 504 stitching and repairs. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. Where stitch Type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished trousers. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.8.1.1.1 a. and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.
3.8.1.3 Type 101 and 103 stitching. Tension of stitch Type 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top threads, excessively tight stitching or puckering on outward appearance of the trousers. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the trousers, unless otherwise specified in Table V.
3.8.1.3.1 Repairs of Type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blind stitching in the same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blind stitching. When repairing blind stitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching.
3.8.1.4 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.
3.8.1.5 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.
CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.
3.8.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be an eyelet-end, taper-bar type, or an eyelet-end, square-bar type, worked over cotton gimp thread, with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be bartacked with 21 stitches per tack in a separate operation. The bar end of the eyelet-end, taper-bar type of buttonhole shall have a minimum of four (4) stitches not counting the first crossover stitch.
3.8.3 Automatic button sewing. An automatic machine that sews and sets the buttons in one (1) operation shall be used.
3.8.4 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table IV. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.
TABLE IV. Placement of bartacks.
| Bartack Location |
| Size of Bartack |
| Stitches per Bartack |
| No. of Bartacks per Location |
| Total No. of Bartacks |
| Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack 1/4 inch down from waistband seam |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack on bottom of pocket opening |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| Belt Loops - Horizontal bartack top of belt loop 1/8 inch down from top of fold |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 7 |
| Belt Loops - Horizontal bartack bottom of inside belt loop 3/8 below waistband seam |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 7 |
| Front Fly - Horizontal bartack at bottom end of J-Stitch |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| Hip Welt Pocket Tab - Horizontal bartack 1/4 inch from bottom of tab and 5/8 inch above first bartack |
| 1/4 in |
| 21-28 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| Hip Welt Pocket - Vertical bartack on both sides of pocket opening |
| 1/2 in. |
| 28-32 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
3.8.5 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the trousers shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.7.1 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table III.
3.9 Manufacturing operation requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table V. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table V, providing the seam and stitch type are as specified, and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification.
3.9.1 Shade and size marking. The cut parts of each pair of trousers shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each pair of trousers. Any method may be used except:
a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.
b. Sew-on type tickets.
c. Adhesive type tickets which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.
d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.
3.9.2 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table V are as follows:
| ABLT | - | Automatic Belt Loop Tacker |
| Brtck | - | Bartack |
| Button | - | Btn |
| Btnhl | - | Buttonhole |
TABLE V. Table of operations.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
a. Cut the trousers in accordance with the patterns, which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets, drill marks for position of darts, and notches for proper assembly of parts.
b. Spread the basic material without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic fabric.
c. Cut all parts of the trousers made of basic material from the same piece of basic material, except parts that may be cut from ends. The front pocket facings, the hip pocket facing, the belt loops, and the fly pieces (right and left) may be cut from ends but shall approximate the shade of the other parts of the trousers.
d. Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with Operation 8.
Cut the fusible interlining material for the hip pocket welts, left fly, and front pockets.
| 3. |
| Cut pockets and lining. |
a. The material for the right fly lining on the bias. Cut hip pocket bags, front pocket bags, and crotch linings following the directional lines of the pattern.
TABLE V. Table of operations – Continued.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 3. |
| Cut pockets and lining – Continued. |
b. Cut the material for the right fly lining on the bias. Cut the waistband lining and the material for the waistband interlining on the bias and of sufficient width to comply with Operation 19. Cut non-slip tape of sufficient length and width to comply with Operation 19. As an option, the waistband may be a commercial type provided the material meets the requirements specified.
Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the trousers to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the trousers.
| 5. |
| Replace defective or damaged parts. |
a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.
b. Replace any part cut of the fusible interlining if it exhibits any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling.
c. Replace any part the of trousers damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that shall be visible on the outside of the finished trousers.
a. Position front pocket facing interlining and hip pocket welt interlining pieces with edges set back 1/8 inch from the raw edges. Fuse interlinings.
b. Position left fly interlining piece to left fly with edges set back 1/8 inch from the left fly edges. Fuse the interlining to the back of the left fly piece.
a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the inseams, leg bottoms, outseams (from the lower side pocket notch to the bottom of the trousers), crotch seams, seat seam, and left end of the waistband. The crotch linings folded in half, lengthwise may be caught in the stitching along the crotch seams and the inseams of the front.
502 or 503 or 504
EFd-1
8-10
| b. The crotch linings may be stitched to the fronts in a separate operation. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| 8. |
| Make stripping for buttonhole tab and belt loops. |
Turn the stripping with both edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center. Stitch with the covering stitch on the underside. The width of the finished stripping shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping shall incorporate a stiffener.
101 or 103 or 406
EFh-1
10-12
NOTE: Automated equipment may be used for this operation.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 9. |
| Make back welt pocket buttonhole tab. |
a. Cut a piece of the stripping of sufficient length to finish 1-1/4 inches (±1/8 inch) long when attached to the left back pocket.
| b. Fold the piece of stripping in half and abut the side edges forming a point. Bartack across the abutted edges, horizontally, at the pointed end, catching the base of the triangle. Place a second bartack horizontally, across the abutted edges 5/8 inch (±1/16 inch) from the first bartack, forming a slit buttonhole. The bartack length shall be as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| 10. |
| Make right and left fly. |
Finished appearance: The edges of the chain of the zipper in the finished trousers shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the edge of the top and 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the edge at the bottom. The flies and the waistband shall lie smoothly when the finished trousers are closed.
| a. Stitch the back edge of the zipper tape to the left fly with two (2) rows of stitching. |
| 301 or 401 |
| LSbj-2 |
| 10-12 |
NOTE: The ends of the scoops shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch when the fasteners are cut and the scoops removed.
| b. After the zipper is cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the zipper tape to the back edge of the right fly, with the bottom end of the scoops 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch. |
| 301 |
| LSbj-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Overedge the back edge of the left fly and the interlining together. |
| 503 or 504 |
| SSa-1 |
| 8-10 |
| d. Fold right fly lining and seam to the front edge of the right fly to within 1 inch (±1/4 inch) from the top of the fly. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSe-1(a) |
| 10-12 |
Fold and stitch the darts as indicated on the pattern. Turn the folded edge of the dart toward the seat seam on the inside of the trousers. The lower end of the dart shall finish in the hip pocket welt opening.
OSf-1
NOTE: Automated equipment may be used for this operation.
| 12. |
| Make hip welt pockets and attach certification or combination of size, identification, and care instruction label. |
Finished appearance: The finished pockets shall be in alignment, uniform in width and depth, and 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges nor pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish 5-1/4 inches (±1/8 inch) long.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 12. |
| Make hip welt pockets and attach certification or combination of size, identification, and care instruction label – Continued. |
| a. The combination label shall be on the center of the left hip (as worn) welt pocket bag. Center the combination label 1 inch below pocket facing stitch line and edgestitch 1/16 inch on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. If certification label is required, position certification label on the right hip (as worn) welt pocket bag. Center the certification label 1 inch below pocket facing stitch line and edgestitch 1/16 inch on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. |
| 301 |
| LSbj-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Turn the lower edge of the facing, and seam to the pocket at the notches. If the facing piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Position the hip pocket welt piece on the outside of the trousers, as indicated by the solid line on the pattern, with the pocketing placed on the underside. Stitch to the trousers through the pocketing with two (2) rows of stitching. |
| 301 |
| SSbe-2(a) |
| 10-12 |
| d. Cut the opening between the rows of stitching through all plies simultaneously. Turn the lower part of the welt piece through the cut opening and raise stitch forming a 1/8 to 3/16 inch welt edge |
| 301 |
| SSbe-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| e. Turn the raw edge of the welt piece and seam to the pocketing. If the welt piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| f. Smooth out the pocketing with raw edges turned in and stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge. The stitching may extend across the bottom folded edge. The ends of the welt pocket facing and the welt shall be caught by the edge stitching only. As an alternative, fold pocket with raw edges turned to inside and stitch sides and bottom pocket 1/8 inch from pocket edge |
| 301 |
| SSc-1 |
| 10-12 |
| g. Form a 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch welt on upper edge of the pocket opening. Insert the buttonhole tab at the center (1/4 inch off center tolerance) on the left back pocket. Raise stitch the seam through the trousers, the welt-facing piece, the pocket facing, and the pocketing, closing the top of the pocket. |
| 301 |
| LSq-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| h. Bartack the ends of the pocket opening, vertically, 1/2 inch through the welt, the facing, and the pocketing as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
28-32 per Brtck
NOTE: Raise stitch the joining seam of the lower piping piece through the back of the trousers and the piping piece only. Raise stitch the joining seam of the top piping piece through all plies, closing the top of the pocket. The ends of the pocket openings shall be securely bartacked.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
a. Overedge stitch the raw inner edges and lower edges of the front pocket facing and the front pocket yoke.
EFd-1
8-10
| b. Place the front pocket facing on the pocket bag; turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner side and across the lower end. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Place the front pocket yoke on the pocket bag, aligning the notches on the top edge; turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner (straight) side and across the lower end, stopping 1-1/4 inches from pocket bag. Figure 4 shows visual operations for making front pockets. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| 14. |
| Attach front pockets. |
Finished appearance: The edges of the pocket openings shall not be distorted. The finished pocket openings shall be uniform in length and shall be no more than 1/8 inch out of alignment. The top of the pocket opening shall be positioned 1 inch from the finished outseam.
| a. Seam a pocket to each front at the pocket opening, first perpendicular to the cut edge, then pivot at the corner, and continue to the waist. Clip into corner. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(a) |
| 10-12 |
| b. Turn each pocket to the finished position with the seam rolled to the underside and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from front edge. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| c. Fold the pocket bag, right sides together, and stitch the lower edge in a 3/16 to 1/4 inch seam. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
d. Turn the pocket to the finished position, matching the pocket opening to the notch on the waistline. Figure 4 shows visual operations for attaching front pockets.
Finished appearance: The finished fly shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the zipper is closed.
| a. Sew the right fly (with the zipper attached) to the right front with the notches matching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Sew the left fly (zipper attached) to the left front with the notches matching; turn and raise stitch the fly 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the turned edge. Turn the fly to the inside with the seam line 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of the folded edge. |
| 301 or 401 |
| LSq-2(a) LSq-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
a. Join the outseams, with the notches matched, catching the front pocket facing piece but not the pocket bag. Figure 4 shows visual operations for finishing the front pockets.
301 or 401
SSa-1
b. Press the outseams open from the unhemmed bottom edge to the top of the trousers.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 16. |
| Join outseams – Continued. |
| c. Set braid to back panel aligning with outseam, and stitch on each side of braid 1/8 inch from edge of braid. |
| 301 |
| SSs-2 |
| 10-12 |
| 17. |
| Finish front pockets. |
| Turn in the back edge of the side pocket bag 1/2 inch and tack to the seam allowance of the back in three (3) places (top, middle, and bottom). Continue the stitching around the pocket to the folded edge and securely backstitch the end of the seam. Figure 4 shows visual operations for finishing the front pockets. |
| 301 and 401 |
| SSc-1 |
SSe-2(b) 10-12
| 18. |
| Attach waistband and set belt loops. |
| a. Stitch one (1) belt loop on each front, centered between outseam and center front, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| 301 |
| SSaa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Stitch one (1) belt loop at each back at side seam, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| 301 |
| SSaa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Stitch one (1) belt loop on each back, centered between outseam and seat seam. An additional belt loop shall be sewn at center back after closing seat seam. |
| 301 |
| SSaa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| NOTE: If an automatic belt loop tacker is used, the front, side and side back belt loops hall be located above in Operations 18a, 18b, and 18c. The center back belt loop shall be attached in Operation 28. |
| ABLT |
| d. Stitch the right and left waistbands to the trousers, catching the ends of the belt loops, except the center back loop, in the stitching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
e. Press the waistband seam toward the waistband.
| f. Bartack each loop 3/8 inch below the waistband seam, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. The bartacking shall not extend beyond the width of the loop. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
NOTE: The waistband lining may be attached to the waistband (see Operation 19) prior to setting to the trousers.
| 19. |
| Make and join waistband linings (if commercial type not used). |
Finished appearance: The waistband lining shall be no less than 2 inches (±1/8 inch) wide in the finished trousers. The top row of rubber thread of the non-slip tape on the waistband lining assembly shall be 3/4 inch (±1/8 inch) from the top of the waistband. No stitching shall penetrate the rubber thread of the non-slip tape. The waistband lining may be pieced providing the seam is flat and not more than one (1) piecing is made in each of the trousers.
Make non-slip waistband lining.
a. Position the center of the non-slip tape 5/8 inch (±1/16 inch) below the top edge of a 2-1/4 inches wide, woven, or non-woven interlining.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 19. |
| Make and join waistband linings (if commercial type not used) – Continued. |
b. Cut the waistband lining material (see Operation 2b) on the bias in two (2) portions to attach above and below the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape as follows:
(1) The lower portion shall be cut wide enough to fold around the bottom edge of the interlining and extend 1/4 inch beyond the lower row of rubberized threads, front and back. The lower lining portion shall measure 1 inch (±1/16 inch) wide when finished and attached to the trousers.
(2) The top portion shall be cut wide enough to extend 5/8 inch beyond the top row of rubberized threads and 1/4 inch beyond the top edge of the interlining with a 1/4 inch turn under near the top row of rubberized threads. The top lining portion shall measure 5/8 inch (±1/16 inch) wide when finished and attached to trousers.
| (3) Position waistband stabilizer to opposite remaining edge of interlining and stitch 1/2 inch from edge. Fold lining over interlining and press. The waistband stabilizer may be inserted during the joining of the waistband and waistband lining. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
a. Position the eye on the center (±1/8 inch tolerance) of the wearer’s right waistband, aligned with the zipper scoops. Attach the eye through a suitable reinforcement.
b. Position the hook on the center of the wearer’s left waistband corresponding to the eye on the right waistband. Attach the hook through a suitable reinforcement.
NOTE: The closure shall not bulge or cause distortion when the hook and eye are engaged.
| 21. |
| Finish right and left flies. |
Finished appearance: The top corners of the right and left flies shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the left fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the left fly to the front shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers when the zipper is closed. The right fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers when the zipper is closed. The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers, excessive fullness, or distortion.
| a. Continue the stitching of the right fly lining to the top of the waistband. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSe-2(a) |
| 10-12 |
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| 21. |
| Finish right and left flies. |
| b. Turn the right fly lining to the inside and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge. Turn in the fly lining at the top of the waistband and continue the stitching across the top. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching. The edge stitching along the front edge of the fly may be accomplished in a separate operation. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(b) SSc-1 and LSq-2(b) shows finished seams |
| 10-12 |
| c. Turn back the end of the waistband in line with the front folded edge of the left fly. Stitch across the top of the waistband the width of the fly. Trim, turn, and work out the corner. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| d. Stitch down the left fly with the waistband lining smoothly inserted between the fly and the trousers. The stitching (J-stitch) shall be 1-3/8 inches (±1/8 inch) from the front edge of the fly extended from the top of the waistband and curve to the fly notch. |
| 301 or 401 |
| LSbj-1 |
| 10-12 |
| a. Join inseams with 1/2 inch seam allowance from hem to knee notch, then continue to 1 inch at crotch seam. The seam shall finish evenly, and notches shall match. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
b. Press the inseams open.
Finished appearance: In the joining of the seat seam, the inseams shall meet and the right and left waistband joining seams shall meet. The right and left waistband joining seams shall be aligned. The base of the left fly shall cover the right fly on the outside of the finished trousers. The inseams shall not be staggered more than 1/4 inch at crotch.
| a. Join the seat seam from the base of the fly to the end of the waistband lining with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. As an alternative, a single row of stitching with double thread through the needle may be used. The stitching of the outlet seam allowance at the center back shall be gradually increased from 3/8 inch at the base of flies to 1-1/4 inches at the waist and through the waistband. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-2 |
| 10-12 |
b. Press open the crotch and seat seam.
| 24. |
| Finish waistband with logo label. |
| a. Attach logo label at wearer’s inside left back waistband with stitches at both sides of label, placed 2 inches from center back and 1/8 inch above bottom edge. Logo label shall be even with fold at bottom of waistband and stitches shall not be sewn through the printing. |
| 301 |
| SSaa |
| 10-12 |
| b. Topstitch the waistband seam 1/16 inch below the joining seam catching the waistband lining with center back folded in and the top of the pockets in the stitching (stitch in the ditch). The stitching shall not extend across the right fly. Pockets may be stitched or basted to waistband seam allowance prior to topstitching. |
| 301 |
| BSf-2 |
| 10-12 |
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
Attach the slider with the ends of the chain even. Install stop at the bottom, overlapping the scoops. The stop shall be within 3/8 inch of fly notch. The end of tape shall extend at least 1/8 inch below notch.
NOTE: Bottom stop shall not be attached more than 1/2 inch above fly notch.
| 26. |
| Stitch right fly extension. |
| Turn in the raw edges of the right fly extension piece. Stitch to each side of the spread open crotch and seat team. |
| 301 |
| SSac-3(b) SSac-3(c) SSac-3(d) |
| 10-12 |
| 27. |
| Finish belt loop attachment. |
Finished appearance: The tacking shall extend the width of the belt loop but not beyond. The finished belt loops shall measure 1-3/4 inches (±1/8 inch) from bartack at top of loop to the bottom folded edge.
| Turn under top end of each belt loop 1/4 inch and bartack to trousers 1/8 inch below top edge of waistband, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| NOTE: If an automatic belt loop tacker is used, all belt loops shall be attached in this operation using the location and dimensions prescribed for the manually attached belt loops. Each end of the belt loop shall be turned under 1/4 inch and attached with a bartack 1/8 inch from the turned end of the belt loop as indicated in Table IV. |
| ABLT |
| 28. |
| Attach center back belt loop. |
Finished appearance: The tacking shall extend the width of the belt loop but not beyond. The finished belt loops shall measure 1-3/4 inches (±1/8 inch) from bartack at top of loop to the bottom folded edge.
| a. Place one (1) belt loop centered on the center back seam butted up to the bottom edge of the waistband and stitch the belt loop over the center back seam 1/8 inch below the bottom edge of the waistband. |
| 301 |
| LSbk-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Bartack belt loop 3/8 inch from bottom of the waistband, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| c. Turn under top end of the belt loop 1/4 inch and bartack to trousers 1/8 inch below top edge of waistband, horizontally, as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| NOTE: If an automatic belt loop tacker is used, all belt loops shall be attached in this operation using the location and dimensions prescribed for the manually attached belt loops. Each end of the belt loop shall be turned under 1/4 inch and attached with a bartack 1/8 inch from the turned end of the belt loop as indicated in Table IV. |
| ABLT |
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch Type |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Stitches per Inch |
| Make the buttonhole at the end of the tab, with the inside edge of the eyelet 5/8 to 3/4 inch from the point. The purling shall face the wearer of the finished trousers. |
| Btnhl |
52-54 per Btnhl
| 30. |
| Mark or gauge and sew buttons. |
Finished appearance: The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes. Machine sewn buttons, which are automatically shanked, shall have a minimum of 10 wraps with three (3) locking stitches.
| a. Sew a 22-ligne button on the left waistband lining to correspond with the fly-tab buttonhole. The stitching shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers. |
| 301 or 101 |
14-16 per Btn
| b. Sew a 22-ligne button on the left back pocket through pocket facing to correspond to buttonhole tab. |
| 301 or 101 |
14-16 per Btn
NOTE: The closure shall not bulge or cause distortion, when buttoned.
Finished appearance: The bartacks shall be well made and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified.
| a. Bartack the upper end of each front pocket opening 1/4 inch below the waistband seam, horizontally. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening, horizontally. Bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
NOTE: The distance between the tacks of each opening shall be no less than 6-1/2 inches or more than 7 inches.
| b. Bartack the trousers at the base of the fly, at the junction of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack shall be in line with the stitching at the base of zipper, horizontally, and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam as indicated in Table IV. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| Overedge or pink leg bottoms. |
| 502, 503 or 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
Trim thread ends and remove loose threads. Remove spots, stains, and shade or size markings.
All pressing required shall be done with a heated pressing iron or machine.
a. Press top of trousers smooth and flat.
b. Place legs, seam on seam, and press trousers smooth and flat, creasing legs. The ends of the creases shall not be more than 1 inch higher or lower than the junction of the inseams at the crotch.
3.10 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the trousers shall conform to Table VI when measured according to method 3.10.1. All measurements shall be in inches.
[This space is intentionally left blank]
TABLE VI. Trousers measurements (inches).
Waist (A) 1/2 Hip (B) 1/2 Thigh (C) Inseam (D)
| X-Short |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| X-Long |
| 26 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 17-3/8 |
| 11-5/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 27 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 17-7/8 |
| 11-7/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 28 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 12-1/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 29 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 18-7/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 30 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 12-7/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 31 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 32 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 33 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 20-5/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 21-1/8 |
| 14 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 21-5/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 36 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 22 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 37 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 22-1/2 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 38 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 23 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 39 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 23-3/8 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 40 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 23-7/8 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 41 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 24-3/8 |
| 16 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 42 |
| 21-1/4 |
| 24-7/8 |
| 16-3/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 43 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-5/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 44 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 25-3/4 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 45 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 26-1/8 |
| 17-1/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 46 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 26-5/8 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| Tolerance |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
| ±1 |
(E) Back Rise (F)
| X-Short |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| X-Long |
| X-Short |
| Short |
| Reg |
| Long |
| X-Long |
| 26 |
| 9-1/2 |
| 10 |
| 10-1/2 |
| 11 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 13 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 14 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 15 |
| 27 |
| 9-11/16 |
| 10-3/16 |
| 10-11/16 |
| 11-3/16 |
| 11-11/16 |
| 13-3/16 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 14-3/16 |
| 14-11/16 |
| 15-3/16 |
| 28 |
| 9-7/8 |
| 10-3/8 |
| 10-7/8 |
| 11-3/8 |
| 11-7/8 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 13-7/8 |
| 14-3/8 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 15-3/8 |
| 29 |
| 10-1/16 |
| 10-9/16 |
| 11-1/16 |
| 11-9/16 |
| 12-1/16 |
| 13-9/16 |
| 14-1/16 |
| 14-9/16 |
| 15-1/16 |
| 15-9/16 |
| 30 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 11-3/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 31 |
| 10-7/16 |
| 10-15/16 |
| 11-7/16 |
| 11-15/16 |
| 12-7/16 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 14-7/16 |
| 14-15/16 |
| 15-7/16 |
| 15-15/16 |
| 32 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 11-5/8 |
| 12-1/8 |
| 12-5/8 |
| 14-1/8 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 15-5/8 |
| 16-1/8 |
| 33 |
| 10-13/16 |
| 11-5/16 |
| 11-13/16 |
| 12-5/16 |
| 12-13/16 |
| 14-5/16 |
| 14-13/16 |
| 15-5/16 |
| 15-13/16 |
| 16-5/16 |
| 34 |
| 11 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 12 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 13 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 15 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 16 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 11-3/16 |
| 11-11/16 |
| 12-3/16 |
| 12-11/16 |
| 13-3/16 |
| 14-11/16 |
| 15-3/16 |
| 15-11/16 |
| 16-3/16 |
| 16-11/16 |
| 36 |
| 11-7/16 |
| 11-15/16 |
| 12-7/16 |
| 12-15/16 |
| 13-7/16 |
| 14-15/16 |
| 15-7/16 |
| 15-15/16 |
| 16-7/16 |
| 16-15/16 |
| 37 |
| 11-11/16 |
| 12-3/16 |
| 12-11/16 |
| 13-3/16 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 15-3/16 |
| 15-11/16 |
| 16-3/16 |
| 16-11/16 |
| 17-3/16 |
| 38 |
| 11-15/16 |
| 12-7/16 |
| 12-15/16 |
| 13-7/16 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 15-7/16 |
| 15-15/16 |
| 16-7/16 |
| 16-15/16 |
| 17-7/16 |
| 39 |
| 12-3/16 |
| 12-11/16 |
| 13-3/16 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 14-3/16 |
| 15-11/16 |
| 16-3/16 |
| 16-11/16 |
| 17-3/16 |
| 17-11/16 |
| 40 |
| 12-7/16 |
| 12-15/16 |
| 13-7/16 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 14-7/16 |
| 15-15/16 |
| 16-7/16 |
| 16-15/16 |
| 17-7/16 |
| 17-15/16 |
| 41 |
| 12-11/16 |
| 13-3/16 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 14-3/16 |
| 14-11/16 |
| 16-3/16 |
| 16-11/16 |
| 17-3/16 |
| 17-11/16 |
| 18-3/16 |
| 42 |
| 12-15/16 |
| 13-7/16 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 14-7/16 |
| 14-15/16 |
| 16-7/16 |
| 16-15/16 |
| 17-7/16 |
| 17-15/16 |
| 18-7/16 |
| 43 |
| 13-3/16 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 14-3/16 |
| 14-11/16 |
| 15-3/16 |
| 16-11/16 |
| 17-3/16 |
| 17-11/16 |
| 18-3/16 |
| 18-11/16 |
| 44 |
| 13-7/16 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 14-7/16 |
| 14-15/16 |
| 15-7/16 |
| 16-15/16 |
| 17-7/16 |
| 17-15/16 |
| 18-7/16 |
| 18-15/16 |
| 45 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 14-3/16 |
| 14-11/16 |
| 15-3/16 |
| 15-11/16 |
| 17-3/16 |
| 17-11/16 |
| 18-3/16 |
| 18-11/16 |
| 19-3/16 |
| 46 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 14-7/16 |
| 14-15/16 |
| 15-7/16 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 17-7/16 |
| 17-15/16 |
| 18-7/16 |
| 18-15/16 |
| 19-7/16 |
| Tolerance |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
| ±3/8 |
TABLE VI. Trousers measurements (inches).
3.10.1 Method of measurement. The trousers shall be laid smooth and flat, with zipper closed, fly tab buttoned, waistband hooked, and measured at the specified locations (see Figure 8 for a visual of how to measure the trousers).
This is the start of the file's text. The full file is on GovTribe.
