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INCH-POUND
11-PD-17-003A
21 October 2020
SUPERSEDING
99-PD-17-003
24 June 2019
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE DRESS
This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
Prepared by
AFLCMC/WNU
1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.
SCOPE
| 1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers requirements for one type of service dress trousers. | |
| 1.2 Classification. The trousers are of the following classes and sizes, as specified (see 6.2): | |
| 1.2.1 | Classes. The classes of trousers are as follows: |
Class 1 – 55 percent/45 percent polyester/wool serge, Air Force Shade Blue 1620 Class 2 – 100 percent polyester, Air Force Shade Blue 1625
1.2.2 Lengths and sizes. The trousers are furnished in the following lengths and sizes:
Schedule of lengths and sizes
| X-Short (XS) |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| Short (S) |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
| Regular (R) |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
| Long (L) |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
| X-Long (XL) |
| 26 |
| 27 |
| 28 |
| 29 |
| 30 |
| 31 |
| 32 |
| 33 |
| 34 |
| 35 |
| 36 |
| 37 |
| 38 |
| 39 |
| 40 |
| 41 |
| 42 |
| 43 |
| 44 |
| 45 |
| 46 |
APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
| 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description whether or not they are listed. |
| 2.2 Government documents. |
| 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. |
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
| A-A-50128 |
| Cloth, Interlining: Nonwoven |
| A-A-50198 |
| Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole |
| A-A-50199 |
| Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester- Covered |
| A-A-52106 |
| Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend |
| A-A-55634 |
| Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) |
| A-A-59992 |
| Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton and Synthetic |
| A-A-59994 |
| Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) |
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
| MIL-DTL-823 |
| Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool |
| MIL-DTL-32075 |
| Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) |
| MIL-C-44296 |
| Cloth, Fusibles |
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS
| MIL-STD-1488 |
| Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers |
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)
2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS
| PD WNUV 13-02 |
| Cloth, Texturized, Woven, Twill, Polyester, Air Force Blue 1625 |
(Available from Procuring Activity.)
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
Technical Manual Test Methods
| AATCC TM8 |
| Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method |
| AATCC TM20 |
| Fiber Analysis: Qualitative (DoD Adopted) |
| AATCC TM20A |
| Fiber Analysis: Quantitative |
| AATCC TM61 |
| Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated |
| AATCC TM132 |
| Colorfastness to Drycleaning |
| AATCC TM135 |
| Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering |
| AATCC TM143 |
| Test Method for Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Home Laundering |
| AATCC TM150 |
| Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering |
| Technical Manual Evaluation Procedures |
| AATCC EP1 |
| Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change |
| AATCC EP2 |
| Gray Scale for Staining |
| AATCC EP8 |
| AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale |
(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manuals are available online at http://www.aatcc.org.)
AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)
| ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 |
| Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes |
(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
| ASTM D3775 |
| Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count |
of Woven Fabrics
| ASTM D3776/ D3776M |
| Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric |
| ASTM D6193 |
| Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams |
(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)
2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
REQUIREMENTS
| 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.1. |
| 3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. |
| 3.3 Design. The dress trousers shall have a sewn-on waistband with a hook and eye closure, a one-piece French fly with a slide fastener closure (fly with integrated tab), a quarter top pocket on each side, and a double-welt pocket on each hip. The closure of the left hip pocket shall consist of a buttonhole tab and button. An outlet is provided at seat seam. Figure 1 shows the front view of the trousers. Figure 2 shows the back view of the trousers. Figure 3 shows the side view of the trousers. Figure 4 shows construction instructions for the front pockets. Figure 5 shows a visual of how to measure the trousers. |
| 3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 5 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern. |
| 3.5 Material. |
| 3.5.1 Basic material. |
| 3.5.1.1 Class 1. The basic material shall be a blend of 55 percent polyester and 45 percent wool serge cloth, Air Force Shade Blue 1620, and shall conform to the requirements specified in MIL-DTL-823, Type III, Class 4. |
| 3.5.1.2 Class 2. The basic material shall be 100 percent polyester, Air Force Shade Blue 1625, and shall conform to the requirements specified in PD WNUV 13-02. |
| 3.5.2 Lining, interlining, and pocketing. |
| 3.5.2.1 Pocketing and lining. The material for the pocketing, for the waistband lining, for the right fly lining, and for the crotch lining shall meet the requirements specified in Class 3 of A-A-52106 with the exceptions specified in Table I. The waistband lining shall incorporate non-slip tape. |
TABLE I. List of exceptions for pocketing and lining.
| Characteristics |
| Requirements |
| Fabric Weight |
| (2.55-3.05)oz./sq.yd |
Yarns per Inch
Yarn Size (denier)
| Warp |
| 1/75/(70-100 Filaments) |
| Filling |
| 1/100/(30-40 Filaments) |
| Finishing |
| Durable Moisture Wicking |
Color Fastness to Crocking (Wet and Dry) (Min) 3.0
| 3.5.2.2 Fusible interlining. The material for the left fly interlining and the front pocket interlining shall be a nonwoven fusible interlining conforming to Type V or VI, Class 1, Style A of MILC-44296. The shade shall be black or charcoal. | |
| 3.5.2.3 Waistband interlining. The material for the waistband interlining shall be bleached or unbleached buckram conforming to Type II of A-A-59992, except shrinkage in the warp and filling directions shall not exceed 2 percent maximum. As an alternate, a nonwoven cloth, natural color conforming to Type III of A-A-50128 may be used for the waistband interlining. | |
| 3.5.2.4 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be non-rollover type cloth conforming to Type I Class I of A-A-59992. | |
| 3.5.2.5 Rubberized waistband lining construction. The waistband lining may be a commercial type using lining, stabilizer, rubberized inside track and waistband materials specified. If a commercial type rubberized waistband lining is not used, the contractor may manufacture one (see Table IV, Operation 19). The waistband lining shall be white or natural in color, with at least two (2) rows of rubberized thread woven or stitched to tape, and shall not shrink more than 2 percent in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item. | |
| 3.6 Components. | |
| 3.6.1 Slide fastener. Slide fastener shall be a non-separating with an automatic lock slider, short tab pull, No. 3 continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 or 5 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the coil, tape, and slide fastener pull shall be a good match to Air Force Shade Blue 1620 for Class 1 and Air Force Shade Blue 1625 for Class 2 trousers. The dyed tape shall show a colorfastness rating of 4.0 to dry-cleaning and laundering when evaluated using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2. | |
| 3.6.2 Hook and eye. The hook and eye size shall be #8 hook, #8 hook plate, #85 eye, and #85 eye plate or equal items (see 6.6). The hook and eye shall be crushproof and shall be zinc plated with a nickel finish. | |
| 3.6.3 | Button. The button shall conform to Type I, Class 1, Style 24A, 22 ligne of A-A-59994 and shall be a good match to the basic material. |
| 3.6.4 Thread. The cotton- or polyester-covered polyester core thread for general stitching of the trousers shall be Tex 36–45, 2 ply. The thread for sewing of the buttons shall be Tex 61–70, 2 or 3 ply. All threads shall conform to A-A-50199. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The thread used for automatic button sewing shall be polyester core, Type I, cotton-covered or polyester-covered, Type II, Tex 61-70, 2 or 3 ply, conforming to A-A-50199. The thread shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness in accordance with the test methods specified in A-A-50199. | |
| 3.6.4.1 | Thread (gimp) for reinforcement buttonholes. The thread (gimp) for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be soft finish, Tex 210, or glazed finish, Tex 180 or 210, of A-A-50198. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. |
| 3.6.5 Labels. Each pair of trousers shall have a size/identification/ instruction label. For Class 2, there shall also be a certification label. All labels shall conform to Type VI, Class 14 of MIL-DTL-32075 or a woven label of equal commercial quality and suitable for the intended purpose. | |
| 3.6.5.1 | Size/identification/instruction label. The size/identification/instruction label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 14, or be of equal commercial quality and suitable for the intended purpose. |
The contents of the size/identification/instruction label shall be as follows for Class 1 Trousers:
TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE DRESS
Size: 34R (example)
55%/45% Polyester/Wool, Air Force Blue 1620 Contract Number:
Contractor Name:
Manufacturer Name:
NSN
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Dry Clean Only
DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL
The contents of the size/identification/instruction label shall be as follows for Class 2 Trousers:
TROUSERS, MAN’S, SERVICE DRESS
Size: 34R (example)
100% Polyester, Air Force Blue 1625 Contractor Name:
USAF Certification No. __________. A sample of this item has been inspected and meets or exceeds the quality prescribed by (document) _________. The manufacturer certifies that this item meets the quality of sample approved by USAF.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Machine wash cold with mild detergent Gentle Cycle and low spin
Tumble dry low, remove promptly and hang immediately.
Iron low if needed.
Fabric softeners not recommended.
DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL
Made In USA
| 3.6.5.2 Certification label (Class 2 only). The certification label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Classes 1 and 2 combined, or shall be of equal commercial quality, suitable for the intended purpose, and labeled in accordance with the operating procedures of the USAF Optional Uniform Certification Procedures (see 6.3). |
| 3.7 Appearance after laundering (Class 2 only). The finished trousers shall be laundered five (5) times in accordance with AATCC TM143. The seam appearance, crease retention, and smoothness appearance, of the trousers shall be as follows: |
| a. The seam appearance of the trousers shall have a minimum average rating of 3.5 for each of the following areas: crotch, inseam, outseam, back pocket, side pocket, fly, and waist when evaluated using the AATCC TM143 Photographic Seam Smoothness replicas for seam appearance and tested as specified (see Table VII). |
| b. The crease retention of the trousers shall have a minimum average rating of 4.0 for each of the following areas: front and back when evaluated using AATCC TM143 Crease Retention replicas for crease retention and tested as specified (see Table VII). |
| c. The smoothness appearance of the trousers shall have a minimum average rating of 4.0 when evaluated using AATCC TM143 3D Smoothness Appearance Replica and tested as specified (see Table VII). |
| 3.8 Dimensional changes after laundering (Class 2). The finished trousers shall be laundered three (3) times in accordance with AATCC TM150. Dimensional changes to trousers (Class 2) shall be less than ±2.5 percent after laundering as specified in Table VII. |
| 3.9 Patterns. Government patterns that show directional lines, size, notches, and placement of pockets for the proper assembling of the parts of the trousers will be furnished by the procuring activity (see 6.5). The standard patterns (see Table II) shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These minor modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements governed by the Government pattern in the finished trousers. The Government patterns provide seam allowances as follows: |
| 1/4 inch – |
| For pocket bagging |
| 3/8 inch – |
| For all other seams except inseams, outseams, and center back waistband. |
| 1/2 inch – |
| For inseams and outseams. |
| 1-1/4 inch – |
| At center back waistband, to allow for tapering the seat outlet, tapers to 1/2 inch at back crotch seam notch. |
3.9.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table II.
TABLE II. List of pattern parts.
| Material |
| Pattern Nomenclature |
| CAD Pattern Names |
| Cut Parts |
| Basic (see 3.5.1) |
| Front |
| FRONT |
| 2 |
| Front pocket yoke |
| FPYOKE |
| 2 |
| Front pocket facing |
| FPKTFAC |
| 2 |
| Hip pocket bearer |
| HPKTBEARER |
| 2 |
| Hip pocket cord/welt |
| HPKTCORD |
| 2 |
TABLE II. List of pattern parts – Continued.
| Material |
| Pattern Nomenclature |
| CAD Pattern Names |
| Cut Parts |
| Basic (see 3.5.1) – Cont. |
| Belt loops |
| BLOOPS |
| 1 |
| Pocketing and |
| Right fly lining |
| RFLYLINING |
| 1 |
| lining (see 3.5.2.1) |
| Front pocket bag |
| FRTPKTBAG |
| 2 |
| Hip pocket bag |
| HIPPKTBAG |
| 2 |
| Crotch lining – Size 26-29 |
| CRTCH26-29 |
| 2 |
| Crotch lining – Size 30-33 |
| CRTCH30-33 |
| 2 |
| Crotch lining – Size 34-37 |
| CRTCH34-37 |
| 2 |
| Crotch lining – Size 38-41 |
| CRTCH38-41 |
| 2 |
| Crotch lining – Size 42-46 |
| CRTCH42-46 |
| 2 |
| Fusible interlining (see 3.5.2.2) |
| Front pocket interlining |
| FPKTINTER |
| 2 |
| Left fly interlining |
| LFLYINTER |
| 1 |
| 3.10 Construction. The trousers shall be constructed as specified in Table IV; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein as long as the resultant trousers will be exactly the same as trousers made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table IV shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the trousers shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished trousers. |
| 3.10.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to the ASTM D6193. Where two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trousers. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric. |
| 3.10.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock stitch shall be imbedded to the materials sewn. |
| 3.10.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows: | |
| a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. When making the repair, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. | |
| b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/ | |
| 1/ | When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be | backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors. |
| CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted. | |
| 3.10.1.2 Type 401, 406, 502, 503, and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished trousers. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.1.1 a and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301. | |
| 3.10.1.3 Type 101 and 103 stitching. Tension of 101 stitch tacking shall be adjusted and maintained so there will be no loose stitching resulting in either loose underneath or top threads, excessively tight stitching or puckering on outward appearance of the trousers. The underneath loop shall be on the inside of the trousers, unless otherwise specified in Table IV. | |
| 3.10.1.3.1 Repairs of Type 101 and 103 stitching. Repairs shall be accomplished by superimposing new tack or blind stitching in same location after removing threads of first broken tack or blind stitching. When repairing blind stitching, superimpose stitching 1/2 inch over loose ends of broken stitching. | |
| 3.10.1.4 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301. | |
| 3.10.1.5 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length. | |
| 3.10.2 | Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be an eyelet-end, taper-bar type, or an eyelet-end, square-bar type, worked over cotton gimp thread, with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be bartacked with 21 stitches per tack in a separate operation. The bar end of the eyelet-end taper-bar type of buttonhole shall have a minimum of four stitches not counting the first crossover stitch. |
| 3.10.3 Automatic button sewing. An automatic machine that sews and sets the buttons in one operation shall be used (see 3.6.4). | |
| 3.10.4 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table III. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching (see Table IV). | |
| 3.10.5 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns provided the requirements to the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met. A minimum of three overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitches. | |
| 3.10.6 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the trousers shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.9 from the materials specified herein and in the quantity specified in Table II. The stripping for the belt loops and for the buttonhole tab, the waistband lining, and the waistband interlining shall be cut from the materials specified herein and shall be of sufficient width. As an option, a commercial-type waistband that conforms to the material requirements specified herein may be used for the trousers. | |
| 3.10.7 Shade and size marking. The cut parts of each pair of trousers shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each pair of trousers. Any method may be used except: | |
| a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. | |
| b. Sew-on type tickets. | |
| c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets. | |
| d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark. | |
| NOTE: The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil shall be acceptable provided the numbers do not show through the outside of each pair of trousers and the numbers are covered by the seam allowance. | |
TABLE III. Placement of bartacks.
| Bartack Location |
| Size of Tack |
| Stitches per tack |
| No. of Bartacks per Location |
| Total no. of Bartacks |
| Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack 1/4” down from waistband seam |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| Front Pocket - Horizontal bartack on bottom of pocket opening |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| Belt Loops- Horizontal bartack 3/8” below waistband seam |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 7 |
| Belt Loops- Horizontal bartack top of belt loop |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 7 |
| Back Hip Pocket- Vertical bartack on both sides of pocket |
| 1/2 in. |
| 28-32 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
Table III. Placement of bartacks – Continued.
| Bartack Location |
| Size of Tack |
| Stitches per tack |
| No. of Bartacks per Location |
| Total no. of Bartacks |
| Front Fly- Horizontal bartack at bottom end of J stitch |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 1 |
| 1 |
| Back Hip Pocket Tab- Horizontal bartack 1/4” from bottom of tab and 5/8” above first bartack |
| 3/8 in. |
| 21-28 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| 3.11 Manufacturing operation requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table IV. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table IV, providing that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or loose. |
| 3.11.1 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table IV are as follows: |
| Brtck |
| - |
| Bartack |
TABLE IV. Manufacturing operation requirements.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch |
Type Seam and Stitch Type Stitch per Inch
a. Cut the trousers in accordance with the patterns, which shows directional lines, size, placement of pockets, drill marks for finished length of darts, and notches for proper assembling of all parts.
b. Spread the basic material without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic fabric.
c. Cut all parts of the trousers made of basic material from the same piece of basic material, except for parts that may be cut from ends. The front pocket facings, the hip pocket bearers, the belt loops, and the fly pieces (right and left) may be cut from ends but shall approximate the shade of the other parts of the trousers.
TABLE IV. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.
| No. |
| Description of Operation |
| Stitch |
Type Seam and Stitch Type Stitch per Inch
| 1. |
| Cut basic material – Continued. |
d. Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with Operation 8.
| 2. |
| Cut lining and interlining. |
a. Cut the material for the right fly lining on the bias.
b. Cut the material for the waistband lining and the material for the waistband interlining on the bias and of sufficient width to comply with Operation 19. Cut non-slip tape of sufficient length and width to comply with Operation 19. As an option, the waistband may be a commercial-type provided the material meets the requirements specified.
| 3. |
| Cut pockets and crotch lining. |
Cut the material for the pockets and the crotch lining in the warp direction.
Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the trousers to ensure correct size and uniform shade throughout the trousers except for the parts that may be cut from ends.
| 5. |
| Replace defective or damaged parts. |
a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.
b. Replace any part cut of the fusible interlining if it exhibits any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling.
c. Replace any part of the trousers that is damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished trousers.
a. Position front pocket facing interlining pieces with edges set back 1/8 inch from the front pocket facings. Fuse the interlinings to the back of front pocket facings.
b. Position left fly interlining piece to left fly with edges set back 1/8 inch from the left fly edges. Fuse the interlining to the back of the left fly piece.
| a. | Overedge stitch the raw edges of the inseams, the leg bottoms, the outseams (from the lower side pocket notch to the bottom of the trousers), the crotch seams, the seat seam and the left end of the waistband. The crotch linings folded in half, lengthwise may be caught in the stitching along the crotch seams and the inseams of the front. |
| 502 or | |
503 or EFd-1 EFd-1 EFd-1
6-8 6-8
| b. | The crotch linings may be stitched to the fronts in a separate operation. |
| 301 | |
| SSa-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
| 8. |
| Make stripping for buttonhole tab, and belt loops. |
Turn the stripping with both edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center. Stitch with the covering stitch on the underside. The width of the finished stripping shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping shall incorporate a stiffener.
NOTE: Automated equipment may be used for this operation.
101 or 103 or
| 9. |
| Make hip pocket buttonhole tab. |
a. Cut a piece of the stripping of sufficient length to finish 1-1/4 inches (1/8 inch) long when attached to the left hip pocket.
| b. | Fold the piece of stripping in half and abut the side edges forming a point. Bartack across the abutted edges at the pointed end, catching the base of the triangle. Place a second bartack, across the abutted edges 5/8 (1/16) inch from the first bartack, forming a slit buttonhole. The bartack length shall be as specified in Table III. |
| Brtck | |
or auto-matic tacker
21-28 per Brtck per inch
| a. | Stitch the back edge of the slide fastener tape to the left fly with two (2) rows of stitching. The ends of the scoops shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch when the fasteners are cut and the scoops removed. The edge of the chain in the finished trousers shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the edge at the top, tapering to 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the edge at the bottom. |
| 301 or | |
LSbj-2
10-12 10-12
| b. | After the fastener is cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the fastener tape to the back edge of the right fly, with the bottom end of the scoops 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch. |
| 301 | |
| LSbj-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
| c. | Overedge the back edge of the left fly and the interlining together. |
| 503 or | |
SSa-1 SSa-1 6-8
| d. | Fold right fly lining and seam to the front edge of the right fly to within 1 (1/4) inch from the top of the fly |
| 301 or | |
SSe-1(a) SSe-1(a) 10-12 10-12
| a. | Fold and stitch the darts as indicated on the pattern. Turn the folded edge of the dart toward the seat seam on the inside of the trousers. The lower end of the dart shall finish in the hip pocket opening. |
| 301 | |
| OSf-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
b. An automatic dart making machine may be used for this operation.
| 12. |
| Make hip pocket and attach size/identification/instruction label and certification label. |
The finished pockets shall be in alignment, shall be uniform in width and depth, and shall be 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish 5-1/4 1/8 inches long.
| a. | Position the size/identification/instruction label on the right hip pocketing so that the size/identification/instruction label on the finished trousers will face the wearer, be centered (1/2 inch) on the pockets top edge below the bearer stitchline. Stitch the label on all four sides. The stitching shall not be through the printing. The certification label (for Class 2 trousers) shall be sewn on the center of the back left pocket, on all four sides, 3/4 inch from the bottom. |
| 301 | |
| LSbj-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
| b. | Turn the lower edge of the bearer, and seam to the pocket at the notches. If the bearer piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in. |
| 301 | |
| LSd-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
| c. | Position the cord facing piece on the outside of the trousers, as indicated by the solid line on the pattern, with the pocketing placed on the underside (as indicated by the solid line on the pattern); stitch to the trousers through the pocketing with two rows of stitching. |
| 301 | |
| SSbe-2(a) | |
| 10-12 | |
| d. | Cut the opening between the rows of stitching through all plies simultaneously. Turn the lower part of the facing through the cut opening, and raise stitch forming a 1/8 to 3/16 inch cord edge. |
| 301 | |
| SSbe-2(b) | |
| 10-12 | |
| e. | Turn the raw edge of the cord-facing piece and seam to the pocketing. If the cord-facing piece is cut on the selvage, the edge need not be turned in. |
| 301 | |
| LSd-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
f. Smooth out the pocketing with raw edges turned inside, and single stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge. The stitching may extend across the bottom folded edge. The ends of the bearer and the cord shall be caught by the edge stitching only.
| 12. |
| Make hip pocket and attach size/identification/instruction label and certification label – Continued. |
| As an alternative, fold pocket with raw edges turned to inside and stitch sides and bottom pocket 1/8 inch from pocket edge. |
| 301 |
| SSc-1 |
| 10-14 |
| g. | Form a 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch cord on upper edge of the pocket opening. Insert the buttonhole tab at the center (1/4-inch off-center tolerance) on the left hip pocket. Raise stitch the seam through the trousers, the cord facing piece, the pocket bearer, and the pocketing, closing the top of the pocket. |
| 301 | |
| LSq-2(b) | |
| 10-12 | |
| h. | Tack the ends of the pocket opening 1/2 inch through the cord, the bearer, and the pocketing. |
| Brtck | |
28-32 per Brtck
| NOTE: | Raise stitch the joining seam of the lower piping piece through the back of the trousers and the piping piece only. Raise stitch the joining seam of the top piping piece through all plies, closing the top of the pocket. The ends of the pocket openings shall be securely tacked. |
| 301 | |
| LSq-2(b) | |
| 10-12 | |
| a. Overedge stitch the raw lower edges of the front pocket facing and the front pocket yoke |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. Place the front pocket facing on the pocket bag; turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner side and across the lower end. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 10-12 |
| c. Place the front pocket yoke on the pocket bag, aligning the notches on the top edge; turn under for clean finish and stitch along the inner (straight) side and across the lower end stopping 1-1/4 inch from pocket bag. |
| 502 or |
| 14. |
| Attach front pockets. |
Finished appearance. The edges of the pocket openings shall not be distorted. The finished pocket openings shall be uniform in length and shall be not more than 1/8 inch out of alignment. The top of the pocket opening shall be positioned 1 inch from the finished outseam.
| a. Seam a pocket to each side at the pocket opening, first perpendicular to the cut edge, then pivot at the corner, and continue to the waist. Clip into corner. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(a) |
| 10-12 |
| b. Turn each pocket to the finished position with the seam rolled to the underside and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from front edge. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2(b) |
| 10-12 |
| 14. |
| Attach front pockets – Continued. |
| c. Fold the pocket bag, right sides together, and stitch the lower edge in a 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch seam. |
| 301 or 401 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
d. Turn the pocket to the finished position, matching the pocket opening to the notch on the waistline.
The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the slide fastener is closed.
| a. Sew the right fly (with the slide fastener attached) to the right front with the notches matching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 10-12 |
| b. | Sew the left fly (slide fastener attached) to the left front with the notches matching; turn and raise stitch the fly 1/16 to 3/32 inch from the turned edge. Turn the fly to the inside with the seam line 1/16 to 1/8 inch back of the folded edge. |
| 301 or | |
401 and LSq-2(a) LSq-2(b) 10-12 10-12
| a. | Join the outseams, with the notches matched, catching the front pocket bearer piece but not the pocket bag. |
| 301 or | |
SSa-1 SSa-1 10-12
b. Press the outseams open from the bottom to the top of the trousers.
| 17. |
| Finish front pockets. |
| Turn in the back edge of the side pocket bag 1/2 inch and tack to the seam allowance of the back part in three places (top, middle, and bottom). Continue the stitching around the pocket to the folded edge and securely backstitch the end of the seam. |
| 301 |
and SSc-1 SSe-2(b) 10-12 10-12
| 18. |
| Attach waistband and set belt loops. |
| Finished appearance. The finished waistband shall measure 11/2 (1/8) inches wide. There shall be seven (7) loops for all sizes. The loops shall be positioned as follows: |
| ● | One (1) on each front as indicated by patterns. |
| ● | One (1) at each outseam on back of the trousers. |
| ● | One (1) each centered between outseam and seat seam. |
| ● | One (1) on seat seam that is applied in Operation 28. |
| 18. |
| Attach waistband and set belt loops – Continued. |
| a. | Stitch the right and left waistbands to the trousers, catching the ends of the belt loops, except the center back loop, in the stitching. |
| 401 | |
| LScr-4(a) | |
| 10-12 | |
b. Press the waistband seam toward the waistband.
| c. Bartack each loop 3/8 inch below the waistband seam. The tacking shall not extend beyond the width of the loop. |
| NOTE: | The waistband lining may be attached to the waistband (see Operation 19) prior to setting to the trousers. |
| Brtck |
or auto-matic loop tacker
21-28 per Brtck
| 19. |
| Make and join waistband linings (If commercial type not used). |
The waistband lining shall be not less than 2 ( 1/8) inches wide in the finished trousers. The top row of rubber thread of the non-slip tape on the waistband lining assembly shall be 3/4( 1/8) inch from the top of the waistband. No stitching shall penetrate the rubber thread of the non-slip tape. The waistband linings may be pieced providing the seam is flat and not more than one piecing is made in each of the trousers.
Make non-slip waistband lining.
a. Position the center of the non-slip tape 5/8 (1/16) inch below the top edge of a 2-1/4 inch wide woven or non-woven interlining.
b. Cut the waistband lining material (see Operation 2b) on the bias in two (2) portions to attach above and below the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape as follows:
(1) The lower portion shall be cut wide enough to fold around the bottom edge of the interlining and extend 1/4 inch beyond the lower row of rubberized threads, front and back. The lower lining portion shall measure 1 (1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to the trousers.
(2) The top portion shall be cut wide enough to extend 5/8 inch beyond the top row of rubberized threads and 1/4 inch beyond the top edge of the interlining with a 1/4 inch turn under near the top row of rubberized threads. The top lining portion shall measure 5/8 (1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to trousers.
| 19. |
| Make and join waistband linings (If commercial type not used) – Continued. |
| (3) Position waistband stabilizer to opposite remaining edge of interlining and stitch 1/2 inch from edge. Fold lining over interlining and press. The waistband stabilizer may be inserted during the joining of the waistband and waistband lining. |
| 301, 401 |
The lining may be pieced with not more than one (1) seam per portion of waistband using a 1/4 inch seam spread open and flat.
a. Position the eye on the center (±1/8 inch tolerance) of the right waistband, aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach the eye through a suitable reinforcement.
b. Position the hook on the center of the left waistband corresponding to the eye on the right waistband. Attach the hook through a suitable reinforcement.
NOTE: The closure shall not bulge or cause distortion, when the hook and eye are engaged.
| 21. |
| Finish right and left flies. |
The top corners of the right and left flies shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the left fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the left fly to the front shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers when the slide fastener is closed. The right fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers when the slide fastener is closed.
The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers, excessive fullness, or distortion.
| a. | Continue the stitching of the right fly lining to the top of the waistband. |
| 301or 401 | |
| Sse-2(a) | |
| 10-12 | |
| b. | Turn the right fly lining to the inside and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge. Turn in the fly lining at the top of the waistband and continue the stitching across the top. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching. The edge stitching along the front edge of the fly may be accomplished in a separate operation. |
| 301 | |
SSe-2(b) SSc-1 and LSq-2(b) shows finished seams 10-12
| 21. |
| Finish right and left flies – Continued. |
| c. Turn the right fly lining to the inside and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge. Continue the stitching along the front end of the waistband, across the top of the waistband, and down to meet the back of the right fly. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching. |
| 301 or |
SSe-2(b) LSq-2(b) 10-12
| d. | Turn the back end of the waistband in line with the front folded edge of the left fly and stitch across the top of the waistband the width of the fly. Trim, turn, and work out the corner. |
| 301 | |
| SSa-1 | |
| 10-12 | |
| e. | Stitch down the left fly with the waistband lining smoothly inserted between the fly and the trousers. The stitching shall be 1-3/8 (1/8) inches from the front edge of the fly extended from the top of the waistband and curve to the fly notch. |
| 301 or | |
| a. | Join inseams with 1/2 inch seam allowance. The seam shall finish evenly and notches shall match. |
| 301 or | |
b. Press the inseams open.
In the joining of the seat seam the inseams shall meet and the right and left waistband joining seams shall meet and the right and left waistband joining seams shall be aligned. The base of the left fly shall cover the right fly on the outside of the finished trousers. The inseams shall not be staggered more than 1/4 inch at crotch.
| a. | Join the seat seam from the base of the fly to the end of the waistband lining with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart. |
| 401 | |
| SSa-2 | |
| 8-10 each Ndl | |
b. Press open the crotch and seat seam.
| Topstitch the waistband seam 1/16 inch below the joining seam catching the waistband lining with centerback folded in and the top of the pockets in the stitching. The stitching shall not extend across the right fly. Pockets may be stitched or basted to waistband seam allowance prior to topstitching. |
| 301 |
| LScr-4(c) |
| 10-12 |
| 25. |
| Assemble slide fasteners. |
Attach the slider and with the ends of chain even staple the fastener together at the bottom with the staple overlapping the scoops. The stop shall be within 3/8 inch of fly notch. The end of tape shall extend at least 1/8 inch below notch.
| 26. |
| Stitch right fly extension. |
| Turn in the raw edges of the right fly extension piece and stitch to each side of the spread open crotch and seat seam. |
| 301 |
| SSac-3(b) |
SSac-3(c) SSac-3(d) 10-12
| 27. |
| Finish belt loop attachment. |
| Turn up belt loops; fold under top of loops, and position folded edge 1/8 (1/16) inch from the top of the waistband and bartack. The finished belt loops shall measure 1-3/4 (1/8) inches from bartack at top of loop to the bottom folded edge. |
| Brtck |
or auto-matic loop tacker
21-28 per Brtck 24-28 per tack
| 28. |
| Attach center back belt loop, finished appearance. |
NOTE: The tacking shall extend the width of the loop but not beyond.
| a. | Turn under bottom end of belt loop and bartack to trousers 1/4 (1/8) inch below waistband. The finish loop shall measure 1-3/4 (1/8) inches between tacks. |
| Brtck | |
or auto-matic loop tacker
21-28 per Brtck 24-28 per tack
| b. Turn under top end of belt loop, position over seat seam even with top of waistband and stitch, tack or bartack to trousers 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge. The top edge of loop shall finish 1/8 (1/16) inch from the top of waistband. |
| Brtck |
or auto-matic loop tacker
21-28 per Brtck 24-28 per tack
| Make the buttonhole at the end of the tab, with the inside edge of the eyelet 5/8 to 3/4 inch from the point. The purling shall face the wearer of the finished trousers. |
| Btnhl |
52-54 stitches per Btnhl
| 30. |
| Mark or gauge and sew button. |
The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes. Machine sewn buttons, which are automatically shanked, shall have a minimum of ten (10) wraps with three (3) locking stitches.
| a. | Sew a 22-ligne button on the left waistband lining to correspond with the fly-tab buttonhole. The stitching shall not be visible on the outside of the trousers. |
| 301 or | |
14-16 stitches per button
| b. Sew a 22-ligne button on the left hip pocket through pocket facing to correspond to buttonhole tab. |
| NOTE: | The closure shall not bulge or cause distortion, when buttoned. |
| 301 or |
14-16 stitches per button
Finished appearance: The bartacks shall be well made and correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified.
| a. Bartack the upper end of each front pocket opening 1/4 inch below the waistband seam. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening so that the bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam (horizontal). |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
NOTE: The distance between the tacks of each opening shall be not less than 6-1/2 inches or more than 7 inches.
| b. Bartack the trousers at the base of the fly at the junction of the crotch seam and fly. The bartack may be either diagonal (in line with the fly stitching) or horizontal and shall not extend beyond the crotch seam. |
| Brtck |
21-28 per Brtck
| Overedge or pink leg bottoms. |
| 502, 503, or 504 |
| EFd-1 |
| 8-10 |
a. Trim all ends of stitching. Remove loose threads.
b. Trim the ends of the center back belt loop to a length of 1/16 to 1/4 inch.
c. Remove all spots, stains, and markings.
Press the tops, including the fly and the pockets. Press the legs individually. Crease the legs in the center with the seams matching at the bottom and at the crotch. The inseam at the crotch may be slightly back of the outseam. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the leg creases at the front and back parts of the legs. The ends of the creases shall not be higher than one 1 inch above crotch, nor less than 1 inch lower than the junction of the inseams at the crotch
3.12 Trousers measurements. The finished measurements for the trousers shall conform to Table V.
TABLE V. Trousers measurements (inches).
Waist (A) 1/2 Hip (B) 1/2 Thigh (C) Front Rise (D) Back Rise (E) Inseam (F)
X-Short
| 26 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 12 |
| 8-5/16 |
| 12-9/16 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 27 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 8-1/2 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 28 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19-1/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 8-11/16 |
| 12-15/16 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 29 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 12-7/8 |
| 8-7/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 30 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 19-7/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 9-1/16 |
| 13-5/16 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 31 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 9-1/4 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 32 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 20-5/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 9-7/16 |
| 13-11/16 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 33 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 21 |
| 14 |
| 9-5/8 |
| 13-7/8 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 21-3/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 9-13/16 |
| 14-1/16 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 10 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 36 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 37 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 10-1/2 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 38 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 15 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 39 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 11 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 31-1/2 |
| 40 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 31-1/2 |
| TOLERANCE |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1 |
TABLE V. Trousers measurements (inches) – Continued.
Waist (A) 1/2 Hip (B) 1/2 Thigh (C) Front Rise (D) Back Rise (E) Inseam (F)
Short
| 26 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 12 |
| 8-13/16 |
| 13-1/16 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 27 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 9 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 28 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19-1/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 9-3/16 |
| 13-7/16 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 29 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 12-7/8 |
| 9-3/8 |
| 13-5/8 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 30 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 19-7/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 9-9/16 |
| 13-13/16 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 31 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 9-3/4 |
| 14 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 32 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 20-5/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 9-15/16 |
| 14-3/16 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 33 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 21 |
| 14 |
| 10-1/8 |
| 14-3/8 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 21-3/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 10-5/16 |
| 14-9/16 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 10-1/2 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 36 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 15 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 37 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 11 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 38 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 39 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 40 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 11-3/4 |
| 16 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 41 |
| 21-1/4 |
| 24-3/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 12 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 42 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 43 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 25-3/4 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 44 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 26-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 17 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 45 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 26-3/4 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 13 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 33-1/2 |
| 46 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 27-1/4 |
| 18-1/8 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 33-1/2 |
Regular
| 26 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 12 |
| 9-5/16 |
| 13-9/16 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 27 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 9-1/2 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 28 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19-1/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 9-11/16 |
| 13-15/16 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 29 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 12-7/8 |
| 9-7/8 |
| 14-1/8 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 30 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 19-7/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 10-1/16 |
| 14-5/16 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 31 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 10-1/4 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| TOLERANCE |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1 |
TABLE V. Trousers measurements (inches) – Continued.
Waist (A) 1/2 Hip (B) 1/2 Thigh (C) Front Rise (D) Back Rise (E) Inseam (F)
Regular – Continued
| 32 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 20-5/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 10-7/16 |
| 14-11/16 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 33 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 21 |
| 14 |
| 10-5/8 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 21-3/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 10-13/16 |
| 15-1/16 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 11 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 36 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 37 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 38 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 11-3/4 |
| 16 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 39 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 12 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 40 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 41 |
| 21-1/4 |
| 24-3/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 42 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 17 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 43 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 25-3/4 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 13 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 44 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 26-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 45 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 26-3/4 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 35-1/2 |
| 46 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 27-1/4 |
| 18-1/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18 |
| 35-1/2 |
Long
| 26 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 12 |
| 9-13/16 |
| 14-1/16 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 27 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 10 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 28 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19-1/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 10-3/16 |
| 14-7/16 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 29 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 12-7/8 |
| 10-3/8 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 30 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 19-7/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 10-9/16 |
| 14-13/16 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 31 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 10-3/4 |
| 15 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 32 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 20-5/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 10-15/16 |
| 15-3/16 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 33 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 21 |
| 14 |
| 11-1/8 |
| 15-3/8 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 21-3/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 11-5/16 |
| 15-9/16 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 11-1/2 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 36 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 11-3/4 |
| 16 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 37 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 12 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| TOLERANCE |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1 |
TABLE V. Trousers measurements (inches) – Continued.
Waist (A) 1/2 Hip (B) 1/2 Thigh (C) Front Rise (D) Back Rise (E) Inseam (F)
Long – Continued
| 38 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 39 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 40 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 17 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 41 |
| 21-1/4 |
| 24-3/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 13 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 42 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 43 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 25-3/4 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 44 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 26-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 45 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 26-3/4 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 14 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 37-1/2 |
| 46 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 27-1/4 |
| 18-1/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-1/2 |
| 37-1/2 |
X-Long
| 26 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18-3/8 |
| 12 |
| 10-5/16 |
| 14-9/16 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 27 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 10-1/2 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 28 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19-1/8 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 10-11/16 |
| 14-15/16 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 29 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 19-1/2 |
| 12-7/8 |
| 10-7/8 |
| 15-1/8 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 30 |
| 15-3/4 |
| 19-7/8 |
| 13-1/8 |
| 11-1/16 |
| 15-5/16 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 31 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 13-3/8 |
| 11-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 32 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 20-5/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 11-7/16 |
| 15-11/16 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 33 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 21 |
| 14 |
| 11-5/8 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 34 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 21-3/8 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 11-13/16 |
| 16-1/16 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 35 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 14-5/8 |
| 12 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 36 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 14-7/8 |
| 12-1/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 37 |
| 19-1/4 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 15-1/4 |
| 12-1/2 |
| 16-3/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 38 |
| 19-3/4 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 15-1/2 |
| 12-3/4 |
| 17 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 39 |
| 20-1/4 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 15-7/8 |
| 13 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 40 |
| 20-3/4 |
| 24-1/4 |
| 16-1/4 |
| 13-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 41 |
| 21-1/4 |
| 24-3/4 |
| 16-1/2 |
| 13-1/2 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 42 |
| 21-3/4 |
| 25-1/4 |
| 16-7/8 |
| 13-3/4 |
| 18 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 43 |
| 22-1/4 |
| 25-3/4 |
| 17-1/4 |
| 14 |
| 18-1/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| TOLERANCE |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1 |
TABLE V. Trousers measurements (inches) – Continued.
Waist (A) 1/2 Hip (B) 1/2 Thigh (C) Front Rise (D) Back Rise (E) Inseam (F)
X-Long – Continued.
| 44 |
| 22-3/4 |
| 26-1/4 |
| 17-1/2 |
| 14-1/4 |
| 18-1/2 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 45 |
| 23-1/4 |
| 26-3/4 |
| 17-3/4 |
| 14-1/2 |
| 18-3/4 |
| 39-1/2 |
| 46 |
| 23-3/4 |
| 27-1/4 |
| 18-1/8 |
| 14-3/4 |
| 19 |
| 39-1/2 |
| TOLERANCE |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1/4 |
| ±1 |
This is the start of the file's text. The full file is on GovTribe.
