PURCHASE DESCRIPTION - MFDU LRIP - DRAFT.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD 20024

12 April 2021

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

MATERNITY COVERALLS, FLYER’S, WOMEN’S, FLAME RESISTANT

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNUV, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

mailto:aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Maternity Flight Duty Uniform to be worn as a protective garment by female flight personnel.

1.2 Classification. The coveralls shall be furnished in the following class, as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Class. The class of the women’s coverall is as follows:

Class 1 – Air Force Sage Green 1659

1.3 Lengths and sizes. The coveralls shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes:

XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL

Short Short Short Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Long Long Long Long Long Long Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-55126 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) A-A-55217 Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-83429 Cloth, Plain and Basket Weave, Aramid MIL-DTL-10884 Fasteners, Snap MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, (General USE)

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Technical Manual Test Methods

AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM88B Seam Smoothness in Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manuals are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL (ASTM)

ASTM B36/B36M

Standard Specification for Brass Plate, Sheet, Strip, And Rolled Bar

ASTM D204 Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM E1508 Standard Guide for Quantitative Analysis by Energy-Dispersive

Spectroscopy ASTM D3776/3776M Standard Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3990 Standard Terminology Related to Fabric Defects ASTM D5169 Standard Test Method for Shear Strength (Dynamic method) of

Hook and Loop Touch Fasteners ASTM D5170 Standard Test Method for Peel Strength (“T” method) for Hook &

Loop Touch Fasteners ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

AEROSPACE INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA INC. (AIA/NAS)

AIA/NAS NASM16491 Grommet, Metallic, General Specification for – Rev 2 https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ https://ewb.ihs.com/#/document/VTOMGGAAAAAAAAAA?qid=637478942179227920&sr=re-1-10&kbid=4%7C20027&docid=943792546 https://ewb.ihs.com/#/document/VTOMGGAAAAAAAAAA?qid=637478942179227920&sr=re-1-10&kbid=4%7C20027&docid=943792546 https://www.astm.org/

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.aia-aerospace.org/national-aerospace-standards/.)

PARACHUTE INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION (PIA)

PIA-4108 Strength and Elongation, Breaking; Textile Webbing, Tape and

Braided Items PIA-C-5040 Cord, Fibrous, Nylon

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.pia.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First Article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be as specified.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The maternity coverall shall be a one-piece garment with a zipper front closure, front princess seams, below belly seam, a bi-swing back, hanger loop, shoulder patches, loop fastener name plate, hook and loop fastener tape adjustment tabs for the waist and sleeve, and a zipper closure on each lower leg. The front closure has beaded edges backed with a protective fly. The waist adjustments shall have elastic webbing in the center back under the back belt casing. The coveralls shall have two slanted breast pockets, one combination utility pocket with two pencil compartments and pencil pocket flap on the upper left sleeve, two thigh patch pockets, a reinforced knife pocket with lanyard on the left thigh, and two lower leg patch pockets. Except for the knife pocket, all pockets shall have zipper covers with beaded edges.

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 12 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows the front view of the coveralls. Figure 2 shows the back view of the coveralls. Figure 3 shows the front zipper and knife pocket. Figure 4 shows detail of back view. Figure 5 shows placement of the bartacks of the front view. Figure 6 shows placement of the bartacks of the https://www.aia-aerospace.org/national-aerospace-standards/ https://www.aia-aerospace.org/national-aerospace-standards/ https://www.pia.com/ back view. Figure 7 shows the sleeve pocket/pencil pocket configuration and bartacks. Figure 8 shows collar construction. Figure 9 shows protective fly outside and zipper pull bartacks.

Figure 10 shows details of the bottom of breast pocket to align with back waist seams. Figure 11 shows how to measure. Figure 12 shows zipper operating force test and preparation. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.5 Material

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic cloth shall be plain weave, flame resistant, and shall meet the requirements of Type II, Class 6 in MIL-C-83429. The color of the finished cloth shall be Air Force Shade Sage Green 1659 and shall be a good match to the standard sample.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Thread. The thread for all sewing operations shall conform to Type I of A-A-55217 and shall have a minimum elongation of 20 percent, which is comparable to Nomex® when tested in accordance with ASTM D204 specified in 4.3.3. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The nominal needle thread size shall be Tex 35 for all operations.

3.6.2 Hook and loop fastener tape. The hook and loop fastener tape shall conform to Type I Class I of A-A-55126 and be an approximate color match to the basic material. The hook and loop fastener tape shall be stabilized as necessary to allow maximum flatness and the dimensional stability of all sizes shall meet the requirements in Table I. Hook and loop shall show no signs of fraying after cutting and attachment to coveralls. The shear strength and peel strength of the hook shall be tested in accordance with 4.3.3.

TABLE I. Hook and loop fastener tape lengths (inches).

Pencil Pocket Hook & Loop

Waist Hook 1/

Waist Loop 1/

Sleeve Hook 2/

Sleeve Loop 2/

Nameplate Hook & Loop all sizes all sizes sizes: all sizes all sizes all sizes 1 by 2 1 by 4 XS 1 by 8-3/4

S 1 by 9 M 1 by 9-1/2

L 1 by 10 XL 1 by 10-

3/4 2XL 1 by 11-

3/8 3XL 1 by 12

1-1/2 by 2 1-1/2 by 6 2 by 4

1/ There shall be a quantity of two pieces one piece for each side of garment.

2/ There shall be a quantity of two pieces one piece for each sleeve.

3.6.3 Elastic webbing. The elastic webbing for the waistband section shall be 1-1/2 inches wide, with a minimum thickness of 0.035 to 0.040 inches. The cut length shall be referenced in Table II. After the cut length of the webbing has been stretched and maintained at 50 percent elongation, and then allowed to relax for 10 minutes, the webbing tension set (change in length of the sample) shall not exceed 5 percent. Breaking strength shall be tested as specified in Table VIII.

TABLE II. Elastic lengths (inches).

Size XS S M L XL 2XL 3XL Length 5 6 7 8-1/2 10 11-1/2 13

3.6.4 Metallic Grommet. The metallic grommet for the knife pocket shall conform to Type 1, Class 3, Size No.0 of AIA/NAS NASM16491.

3.6.5 Nylon cord. The nylon cord for the cord beading in the edges of the zippers shall be natural in color conforming to Type IA of PIA-C-5040. The diameter of the cord shall be 3/32 inch.

3.6.6 Reinforcement webbing. The synthetic woven webbing used for the reinforcement piece of the knife pocket shall be 1-1/2 inches wide, 0.85 ounces per linear yard (maximum)

0.025 to 0.040 inch thick, with a breaking strength of 1200 pounds minimum when tested as specified in 4.3.1.

3.6.7 Snap fastener. The snap fastener for the knife pocket shall conform to Style 2, Finish 2 of MIL-DTL-10884 and MS27980-1B (button), MS27980-6B (socket), MS27980-7B (stud) and MS27980-8B (eyelet).

3.6.8 Binding tape. The strip for binding the edges of the knife pocket shall be bias-cut, 1-1/8 inch wide, from the basic fabric. The finished width shall be no more than 3/8 inch wide.

3.6.9 Zippers. The zippers shall conform to the requirements of A-A-55634 and to Table III, of this document except the operating force test method of the slider chain. The chain elements, end stops, and slider components, excluding the slider’s lock pin and spring, shall be brass with a durable black oxide finish. The black oxide finish shall show no chipping or obvious discoloration when tested in accordance with Table IX. The brass shall be commercially available brass alloy C23000 or C26800 specified in ASTM B36/B36M. The lock pin and spring shall be made of stainless steel containing no less than 10 percent chromium. The metal composition of the brass and stainless steel components shall be verified in accordance with Table IX. The center front entry zipper shall have a thong made of double thickness of the basic material. The tape of the zippers shall be 3/4 inch wide, high temperature resistant polyamide, and the color shall approximate that of the base fabric material. The hole in the pull tab shall be no larger than 1/4 inch in width and 3/8 inch in length. The center front entry zipper shall have a 1 to 1-1/4 inch top tape extension and a 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch bottom tape extension. All other zippers shall have a short tab pull, and a 1 to 1-1/4 inch top and bottom tape extension. Lengths of zippers in Table III shall be measured from stop to stop. The operating force of the slider on chain shall be tested in accordance with 4.3.7 and Figure 12. Use the average value of equal or less 2.5 pounds of force (Ibf) of opening and closing from three different sizes of zipper specimen to determine a fail or pass. No single value shall be above 3.0 pounds of force (Ibf).

TABLE III. Zippers.

Location Quantity Style Size Sliders Direction zippers close

Front Opening 1 13 5-7 2 Top slider upward and bottom slider downward

Leg Openings 2 4 5-7 1 Downward Breast Pockets

2 7 5-7 1 Downward (toward center)

Lower Leg Pockets

2 7 5-7 1 Closes toward the back of the leg (figure 2)

Left Thigh Pocket

1 7 5-7 1 Downward

Right Thigh Pocket

1 7 5-7 1 Direction of inseam

Left Sleeve Pocket

1 7 5-7 1 Upward

TABLE III. Zippers – Continued.

Coverall Size

Front Opening

Leg Openings

Breast Pockets

Thigh Pockets

Lower Leg

Pockets

Left Sleeve Pocket

XSS 22-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

XSR 23 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

XSL 23 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

SS 23 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

SR 23-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

SL 23-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

Table III. Zippers – Continued.

Coverall Size

Front Opening

Leg Openings

Breast Pockets

Thigh Pockets

Lower Leg

Pockets

Left Sleeve Pocket

MS 23-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

MR 24 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

ML 24 10 6 1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

LS 24 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

LR 24-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

LL 24-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

XLS 24-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

XLR 25 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

XLL 25 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

2XLS 25 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

2XLR 25-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

2XLL 25-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

3XLS 25-1/2 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

3XLR 26 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

3XLL 26 10 6-1/2 7 8-1/2 4-3/4

3.7 Labels. Each coverall shall have size and appropriate identification/instruction labels.

All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements.

3.7.1 Combination size and identification label. The combination label shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Classes 1 and 2 combined. The item description shall include CWU-27/P, and Class 1. The size shall be marked with a alpha size and S, R, L for short, regular or long.

3.7.2 Instruction label. The instruction label for the coveralls shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 3. The letters for the caption shall be not less than 3/16 inch in height and all other lettering shall be not less than 1/8 inch in height.

The contents of the label shall be as follows:

MATERNITY COVERALLS, FLYER’S, WOMEN’S, SUMMER, FLAME RESISTANT

1. Launder with zippers and hook and loop engaged. Hand or machine wash in warm water using a mild detergent. Permanent press cycle. Flat dry or machine dry on low heat or permanent press cycle. REMOVE PROMPTLY. DO NOT PRESS

HOOK AND LOOP FASTENERS. DO NOT DRY-CLEAN.

2. USE DETERGENTS ONLY. DO NOT USE STARCH, BLEACH OR FABRIC

SOFTENER. THESE PRODUCTS WILL DETERIORATE THE FLAME

RESISTANCE.

3. Lubricate zippers with wax pencil.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.7.3 Barcode tag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC number assigned for all NSN's by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. The UPC code must be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, and notches for the proper assembling of the parts of the coveralls will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3).

The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns.

The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment.

These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance.

The patterns shall provide an allowance of 5/8 inch for all felled seams. All other seam allowances will be indicated in Table VI. Adhesive patterns are prohibited. Pattern grain lines shall not be modified.

3.8.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the coveralls shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in Table IV.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Pattern Piece CAD Pattern Name Cut Parts

1. Center front CTRFRONT 2

2. Side front SFRONT 2

3. Center back CTRBACK 1

4. Side back SBACK 2

5. Lower front-right LFRONT-R 1

6. Lower front-left LFRONT-L 1

7. Lower back LBACK 2

8. Top collar TOPCOLLAR 1

9. Under collar UNDRCOLLAR 1

10. Collar interlining COLLARINT 1

11. Shoulder patch SHLDRPATCH 2

12. Back belt casing BACKBELT 1

13. Waist adjustment tabs WAISTADJ 2

14. Center front facing CTRFRTFAC 2

15. Top sleeve TOPSLV 2

16. Under sleeve UNDSLV 2

17. Sleeve adjustment tab SLVADJ 2

18. Protective fly FLY 2

19. Front zipper cover ZIPCVR 1

20. Breast pocket BREASTPKT 2

21. Breast pocket zipper cover BPKTCOVER 2

22. Sleeve pocket SLEEVEPKT 1

23. Sleeve pocket zipper cover SPKTCOVER 1

24. Pencil pocket PENCILPKT 1

25. Pencil pocket flap PENCILFLAP 1

26. Right thigh pocket RTHIGHPKT 1

27. Right thigh pocket zipper cover RTHIGHCVR 1

28. Left thigh pocket LTHIGHPKT 1

29. Left thigh pocket zipper cover LTHIGHCVR 1

30. Lower leg pocket LEGPOCKET 2

31. Lower leg pocket zipper cover LEGCOVER 2

32. Leg zipper cover GUSSETCVR 4

33. Knife pocket KNIFEPKT 1

34. Knife pocket backing KPBACKING 1

35. Knife pocket flap KNIFEFLAP 1

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts – Continued.

Pattern Piece CAD Pattern Name Cut Parts

36. Thong THONG 1

37. Hanger HANGER 1

38. Knife pocket reinforcement KPWEBBING 1

39. Left front leg marker LFRL_MRKR 1

40. Right front leg marker RFRL_MRKR 1

3.9 Construction. The coveralls shall be constructed as specified in Table VI, although the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein.

The stitches per inch specified in Table VI shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the coverall shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished coverall.

3.9.1 Stitches and seams. Seaming shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the garment. The depth between the fold of seams that is required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and knives on safety trimming shall not exceed 1/16 inch.

3.9.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous lines of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. The lock shall be imbedded in the material sewn.

3.9.1.2 Type 401 stitching. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the coverall.

3.9.1.3 Repairs of stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

3.9.1.3.1 Repairs to Type 301 and 401 stitching.

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back from the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutively skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner.

c. When making these repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

d. Type 301 stitching may be used to repair Type 401 stitching in accordance with b and c, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.9.1.3.2 Repairs to types 502, 503, and 504. Stitching repairs for types 502, 503, and 504 may be repaired in accordance with 3.9.1.3.1 b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears.

3.9.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

3.9.1.5 Bartacks. All bartack length shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch in length and 16 to 22 stitches per bartack. Stitches per bartack are to be counted as visible needle punches, i.e. zig-zags, where straight stitches running underneath the zig-zags do not count. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartacks are required at the specified reinforcement points as specified in Table V and Figures 5, 6, 7, 9, and 10.

TABLE V. Placement of bartacks.

Bartack Numbers Bartack Location Size of

Tack Stitches per Tack

# of Bartacks Total

1 Ends of pencil pocket opening on sleeve pocket – Vertical bartacks on pencil pocket stitch lines

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 3 3

2 Two on the sleeve pocket, one at each end of the zipper cover adjacent to the zipper stop – Horizontal bartacks

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 2

3 Center front zipper thong – Horizontal bartacks

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 3 3

4 Back of coveralls at the intersection of the waist and seat seams – Vertical bartack centered between two rows of stitching

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 1 1

TABLE V. Placement of bartacks – Continued.

Bartack Numbers Bartack Location Size of

Tack Stitches per Tack

# of Bartacks Total

5 Adjacent to the bottom stop of the center front zipper – Horizontal bartack

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 1 1

6 Across the center front zipper tapes, centered between the bottom stop and the belly panel – Horizontal bartack(s)

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 1 1

7 At the top of the leg zipper covers adjacent to the zipper stop – Horizontal bartacks on bottom row of stitching

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 1 2

8 Across the bottom of stitching on each side of the leg zipper covers

– Horizontal bartacks on the bottom row of stitching

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 4

9 Two on each breast pocket, one at each end of the zipper cover adjacent to the zipper stop – Bartack is on the inside row of stitching, and follows the angle of the stitch line

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 4

10 Two on each thigh pocket, one at each end of the zipper cover adjacent to the zipper stop – Right side bartacks are vertical, the outer right thigh pocket bartack shall be midway between the stop and the outseam, and the inner bartack is on the inside row of stitching. Left side bartacks are horizontal on the inside row of stitching

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 4

11 Two on each lower leg pocket, one at each end of the zipper cover adjacent to the zipper stop – Vertical bartacks on the inside row of stitching

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 4

12 Each end of the back belt casing on the inside row of stitching – Horizontal bartacks on inside row of stitch line

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 4

13 1/4” below shoulder reinforcement at the top of the bi-swing back pleats – Horizontal bartacks

3/8-1/2

16-22 1 2

TABLE V. Placement of bartacks – Continued.

Bartack Numbers Bartack Location Size of

Tack Stitches per Tack

# of Bartacks Total

14 Horizontal Bartack at the bottom of bi-swing back opening

3/8-1/2

16-22 1 2

15 Two on the knife pocket at the top end, one on each side of the pocket opening – Vertical bartacks centered on the binding

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 2

16 One across the double row of stitching on the leg inseams – Horizontal bartacks 1/8 inch from the end of the leg hems

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 1 2

17 One across the double row of stitching on the sleeve side seams

– Horizontal bartacks 1/8 inch from the end of the sleeve hems

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 1 2

18 One on each end of the hanger loop – Vertical bartacks 1/8 inch from the end of the hanger loop folded edge

3/8-1/2 inch

16-22 2 2

3.9.1.6 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.1.7 Appearance of seams. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished coverall shall be 4 or greater. Puckered seams shall be examined as specified in Table VIII. Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of “4” shall be scored as a puckered seam.

3.9.2 Cutting. The parts of the coverall shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.8.1, and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table IV.

3.9.3 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the coveralls shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each coverall. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.10 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coveralls shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table VI. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table VI, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified, and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this purchase description. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or too loose. Sewing details and configurations are specified in Figures 7, 8, 9, and 10.

TABLE VI. Table of operations.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

1. Cutting.

a. Cut the coverall in strict accordance with the patterns. Place the patterns on the material with the directional lines coinciding with the warp direction. The directional line may not vary.

b. Cut all parts from one piece of material except the sleeve tabs, waist tabs, front facings, undercollars, hanger, protective fly, thongs and the front zipper cover, which may be cut from ends. However, all pieces shall be cut in accordance with directional lines on the patterns.

c. Replace any parts containing holes or seriously weakening defects. Metal fastening devices or sewn on tickets shall not be used for marking.

2. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade, except for the parts that may be cut from ends.

3. Overedging.

Overedge all raw edges of zipper covers, pockets, underarm/side seams, inseams, leg bottoms, and center fronts (neck to inseam) that are not selvage.

Other raw edges of the garment will be overedged during the manufacturing process.

502, 503 or

SSa-1 8-10

TABLE VI. Table of operations – Continued.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

4. Collar.

a. Sew the undercollar and collar interlining together with diagonal stitching with the points of the stitching approximately 3 inches apart as indicated by patterns.

301 or

SSv-1 10-12

b. Join the collar to the undercollar around the outer edge with a single row of stitching 3/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSe-2 (a)

10-12

c. Turn collar, forcing out edges.

5. Sleeve tabs and waist tabs.

a. Fold waist tabs lengthwise with right sides together and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge leaving one square end open.

301 SSe-2 (a)

10-12

b. Turn, work out edges, and topstitch 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 SSe-2 (b)

10-12

c. Position the hook fastener tape on the tabs as indicated by the pattern marks and stitch on all four sides 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

d. Sew sleeve tabs with right sides together and stitch 1/4 inch from edge.

301 SSe-2 (a)

10-12

e. Turn, workout edges, and top stitch ¼ inch from edge.

301 SSe-2 (b)

10-12

f. Position the hook fastener tape on the tabs as indicated by the pattern marks and stitch on all four sides 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

6. Corded beading in edges of zipper covers.

NOTE: All zipper closures shall have corded beading in the folded edge of the covering. The beaded edges shall be flush with each other when the zipper is closed.

For all zipper closure edges, including the center front opening, bead the edge by placing the cord at the fold line, folding cloth wrong sides together, and stitching close to the cord.

301 SSbg-3a 10-12

NOTE: Beading in the left thigh pocket stops at the lowest notch and does not continue to the bottom of pocket.

NOTE: Use caution when turning seam allowance of all beaded edges to avoid exposing raw edges.

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

7. Sleeve pocket.

NOTE: The pocket shall be a bellowed compartment with a covered vertical zipper closure (on the forward side of the full length of the pocket) with two pencil compartment openings top stitched to the sleeve compartment and covered with a pencil pocket flap which fastens with hook and loop tape. The openings shall be 7/8 inch wide by 6-3/8 inches long, ±1/8 inch.

The pocket shall finish 5-3/4 inches long by 4-1/4 inches wide. (The width measurement is taken across the top of the pocket, including the zipper cover.)

a. Hem the top of the pencil pocket compartment by folding the 3/8 inch seam allowance to the wrong side and double topstitch with the first row 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 EFa-2 10-12

b. Position the loop fastener tape on the pencil pocket as indicated by the pattern marks and stitch on all four edges 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

c. Double topstitch the pencil pocket to the sleeve pocket; matching top corners to drill markings and stitching down each side. The edges of the pocket shall be turned under 3/8 inch and the bottom raw edge of the pencil pocket will line up with the bottom raw edge of the sleeve pocket. The top of the pocket will have ease to form pencil sleeves (see next operation) and the bottom edge will be flat to the sleeve pocket.

301 LSd-2 10-12

d. Form the individual pencil pockets by stitching down the center of the pencil pocket with a single row of stitching. The pockets when stitched shall form a semicircular 7/8 inch opening that a pen/pencil slides into easily.

301 SSv-1 10-12

e. Bartack the ends of the pencil pocket openings with the bartack superimposed on the inner row of double stitching and on the center row of stitching. The bartack shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long. Note: the bartacks superimposed on the stitch lines must not be placed totally to the inside of the stitch line. This will reduce the dimension of the pencil pockets rendering them nonfunctional.

bartack 16-22 per bartack

f. Stitch the bellow seams at the bottom of the sleeve pocket.

301 SSa-1 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

7. Sleeve pocket – Continued.

g. Sew the zipper tape to the forward side of the sleeve pocket with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the beading. The beading shall cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSb-2 10-12

h. Sew the zipper cover to the opposite side of the remaining zipper tape using a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the bead stitching. The beaded edge shall cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSb-1 10-12

i. On the pencil pocket flap, position the hook fastener tape on the flap as indicated by the drill holes and stitch on all four edges 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

j. Fold pencil pocket flap, right sides together, and seam the two long side edges with a single row of stitching.

301 SSe-2 (a)

10-12

k. Turn pencil pocket flap, work out corners, and topstitch all finished edges 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSe-2 (b)

l. Stitch the sleeve pocket assembly to the left sleeve as indicated by pattern marks 1/16 inch from the edge, incorporating the unfinished edge of the pencil pocket flap. The edge of the pocket shall be turned under 3/8 inch. The pencil pocket flap should line up with the pencil pocket and be placed for stitching with the fastener tape up.

301 LSd-2

NOTE: The six pattern marks indicate the four corners of the assembled pocket and the top and bottom line where the pocket cover meets the pocket. The assembled pocket slightly covers the drill marks.

m. Place a second row of stitching 1/4 inch from the front edge and top edge of the pocket. Fasten the flap to the pocket.

301 LSd-2 10-12

n. Bartack across each end of the zipper on the inner row of topstitching on the top, and 1/4 inch below the bottom stop.

bartack 16-22 per bartack

8. Right thigh pocket.

a. Sew the zipper to the top of the pocket with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch from the bead stitching.

The beading shall cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSb-2 10-12

b. Sew the zipper cover on the opposite side of the tape with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the bead stitching. The beaded edge shall cover the teeth.

301 LSb-1 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

8. Right thigh pocket – Continued.

c. Matching the assembled pocket to the notches on the top and bottom of the side seam, double topstitch the pocket to the right front at the top, bottom and front edge. The side edge will be stitched with the side seam. The edges of the pocket shall be turned under 3/8 inch.

301 LSd-2 10-12

9. Left thigh pocket.

a. Sew the zipper to the forward side of the pocket with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch from the bead stitching. The beaded edges shall cover the scoops.

301 LSb-2 10-12

b. Sew the zipper cover to the opposite side of the tape with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the bead stitching. The beaded edge shall cover the teeth.

301 LSb-1 10-12

c. Matching the notches on the side seam with the top and bottom of the assembled pocket, double topstitch the pocket to the left front at the top, bottom and front edge. The side will be stitched with the side seam. The edges of the pocket shall be turned under 3/8 inch.

301 LSd-2 10-12

10. Lower leg pocket preparation.

a. Sew the zipper to the top of the pocket with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the bead stitching with the beaded edges covering the teeth.

LSb-2 10-12

b. Sew the zipper cover on the opposite side of the tape stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the bead stitching. The beaded edge should cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSb-1 10-12

11. Knife pocket.

a. Place the webbing reinforcement on the wrong side of the knife pocket material, as indicated by the pattern marks, stitch 1/16 inch from the edge on all four sides.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

b. Fold the pocket lengthwise, wrong sides together, and bind the square end with a 1-1/8 wide, bias cut shell material binding.

301 BSc-1 10-12

c. On the knife pocket flap piece for the top of the pocket, bind the straight edge with a 1-1/8 inch wide, bias cut, shell material binding. The binding shall finish no more than 3/8 inch wide.

301 BSc-1 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

11. Knife pocket – Continued.

d. Position the knife pocket flap piece at the round end of the pocket on the same side as the webbing piece. Hold in place through both pocket layers with a single row of stitching 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 LSd-1 10-12

e. Fold the pocket material at the fold line with the reinforcement webbing on the inside. Leaving a 1/2 inch tail beyond the pocket end, bind the raw edges with a 1-1/8 inch wide, bias cut shell material binding starting and stopping at the bottom of the pocket.

301 BSc-1 10-12

f. Form a pleat on the knife pocket flap by folding its excess flat and stitching across its width approximately 1 inch from the straight bound edge.

301 LSa-1 10-12

g. Install a size 0 grommet on the pocket, at the drill hole located below the bottom edge of the knife pocket flap piece.

NOTE: The grommet should be on the side closest to the left thigh pocket.

h. With edges turned under 1/2 inch, double topstitch the knife pocket backing to the left front leg where indicated by notches and pattern marks.

301 LSd-2 10-12

i. Double topstitch the knife pocket to the knife pocket backing on the left leg on the long side edges and the bottom on through the binding. Position in accordance with the pattern marks, with the pocket opening on the inside. Binding tails should be turned under on each side and caught in the stitching. Backstitch the ends of the stitching 1/2 inch on each side of the opening.

LSd-2 10-12

j. On the bound square edge of the knife pocket opening, secure the top of the pocket to the patch/leg with a single row of stitching.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

k. Stamp one snap fastener socket to the center of the rounded pocket flap as indicated by the drill hole.

l. Stamp one snap fastener stud, reinforced on the inside with a piece of the shell cloth, on the coveralls to correspond with the snap fastener socket. Snap the flap closed.

12. Front protective fly.

a. With right sides together, stitch both plies of the protective fly along the outer edge with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

301 SSe-2 (a)

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

12. Front protective fly – Continued.

b. Turn the fly. Work out the edges and topstitch with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the seamed edge.

301 SSe-2 (b)

10-12

c. Double topstitch the fly down the center of its entire length.

301 SSv-2 10-12

13. Thong for front zipper.

Fold the thong lengthwise in accordance with the notches and fold again to finish 1/2 inch wide. Stitch to secure. Folders may be used to fabricate the strips.

301 EFp-2 10-12

14. Center front zipper.

NOTE: The zipper shall start 1/2 (±1/4 inch) inch from the neckline seam, (7/8 inch from the cut edge) and the protective fly must completely cover the zipper.

a. With raw edges even, place the protective fly on the right side of the right facing with the finished edge of the protective fly 3/8 inch down (±1/8 inch) from the cut edge of the neck. Join with a single row of stitching 3/8 inch from the raw edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Turn under one short end of the front crotch facing piece 1/4 inch. With a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the fold, stitch the facing to the bottom of the wrong side of the zipper just below the stop.

301 LSd-1 10-12

c. Position the right zipper tape on the protective fly/front facing so that the raw edge of the center front seam allowance is even with the edge of the tape. Join with a single row of stitching, 1/4 inch from the zipper teeth. The beaded edge of the center front shall just cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSq-2a 10-12

d. Fold the facing over the stitching in 13c and topstitch 1/16 inch from the folded edge, catching the coveralls, zipper tape, protective fly and the facing.

When executed correctly, on the right side of the coveralls this stitching shall appear to be topstitched approximately 1/4 inch from the bead stitching at the center front.

301 LSq-2b 10-12

e. Repeat steps 14c through 14d for the left zipper tape, except that there is no protective fly.

f. Pull the thong through the hole in the top of the zipper pull. With the raw edges even, bartack the bottom, center and up close to the bottom pull across the 1/2 inch width.

bartack 16-22 per bartack

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

15. Center fronts to side fronts.

a. Place side fronts on center fronts with right sides together and stitch 5/8 inch from edge.

301 LSq-3a 10-12

b. Overedge raw edges of seam. 502, 503, SSa-1 8-10

c. Turn seam toward side seam and double needle 1/4 inch top stitch 1/8 inch from seam.

301 or

SSe-3(b) 10-12

NOTE: Step 15 may be performed in one operation by double-lap, double stitch, The side front shall overlap center front.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

16. Right and left breast pockets.

a. Sew the zipper tape to the top diagonal side of the pocket with a double row of stitching, 1/4 inch from the bead stitching. The beading shall cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSb-2 10-12

b. Sew the zipper cover to the opposite zipper tape using a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the bead stitching. The beaded edge shall cover the zipper teeth.

301 LSb-1 10-12

c. For pocket placement match the following: (1) Notches on sides of pockets with notches on side seams, (2) Bottom side corners of pockets with back waist seam, (3) Pattern marks on fronts to inside corners of assembled pockets; then, with the top, bottom and front edges turned under 3/8 inch, double topstitch these edges to the fronts. The side edges will be stitched with the side seams.

301 LSd-2 10-12

NOTE: Ensure finished pocket bottoms are horizontally even with each other on both fronts.

17. Wearer’s nameplate.

Position the loop part of the nameplate parallel to the center front beaded edge and offset 1 inch so that the tape is above, but touching, the left breast pocket.

Stitch on all four side 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

18. Upper back: Bi-swing pleats.

a. Fold the upper back with wrong sides together according to pattern notches. Double stitch 3/16 – 1/4 inch gauge 1/8 inch from the fold from shoulder to 5 inches above hem. Repeat for the other side.

301 OSf-2 10-12

b. Stitch the center back to side backs from the shoulder to the hem with 5/8 inch seam allowance.

LSq-3a 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

18. Upper back: Bi-swing pleats – Continued.

c. Overedge stitch raw edge of seam. 502, 503, SSa-1 8-10

d. Fold seam toward center back and double stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge from hem to join double stitch on Bi-swing pleat.

301 LSq-3b 10-12

e. Bartack the Bi-swing pleat at top 1/4 inch below shoulder patch. Place a bartack at base of Bi-swing opening 3 inches above waist tunnel.

bartack 16-22 per bartack

19. Seat seam.

Join the lower back seam with a double-lapped, double stitched seam. The right panel shall overlap the left panel.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

NOTE: The seat seam may be stitched, over-edged, and top stitched as an alternate construction method.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

20. Join front rise.

Join the front rise seam with a double-lapped, double stitched seam. The right panel shall overlap the left panel

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

NOTE: The front rise may be stitched, over-edged, and top stitched as an alternate construction method.

21. Joining of upper back to lower back.

Join with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam. The upper back shall overlap the lower back.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

22. Join upper front to lower fronts.

a. Join upper front to lower fronts with 5/8 inch seam allowance 301 or

LSq-3a 10-12

b. Overedge raw edges of seam. 502, 503, SSa-1 8-10

c. Turn seam with upper front overlapping lower front and double stitch 1/4 inch gauge 1/8 inch from seam.

301 or

LSq-3b 10-12

NOTE: This operation may be performed with double lapped, double stitch seam. The upper front shall overlap lower front.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

23. Shoulder seams.

Join with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam. The back shall overlap the front.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

24. Shoulder patch.

a. Pattern is annotated to mark front. Matching the notches and their connecting lines to the shoulder seam, double topstitch the shoulder patch to the coverall on all edges except the armhole edge which will be stitched with the armhole seam. The edges of the patch shall be turned under 3/8 inch.

301 LSd-2 10-12

b. Overedge raw edge of armholes. 502, 503, or 504

SSa-1

8-10

25. Sleeves.

a. For underarm ventilation make sewn eyelets on sleeves as indicated by drill hole marks. Finished inside diameter shall be 1/8 to 3/16 inch.

19-24 per eyelet

b. Double-lap, double-stitch the elbow seams. The top sleeve shall overlap the undersleeve.

301 or

LSc-2

c. Double-lap, double-stitch the armhole seams. The front and back panels should overlap the sleeves.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

NOTE: The notch in upper back matches sleeve seam.

d. Hem the sleeves. Turn under 3/8 inch and then

1-1/4 inch from the hem. Secure with a single topstitch 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 EFb-1 10-12

e. Position the loop fastener tape on the top sleeve as indicated by the pattern marks and stitch on all four sides 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge

301 LSbj-1 10-12

26. Sleeve tabs.

Position each sleeve tab between the notches on the top sleeve with the raw edges even. Hold in place by stitching 1/8 inch from the cut edge. A second row of stitching may be added at 1/4 inch to aid manufacturing process.

301 LSd-2 10-12

27. Side seams.

Double-lap, double-stitch the side seams from the wrist to the ankle. The backs shall overlap the fronts.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

28. Joining of lower leg pocket to leg.

Double topstitch lower leg pockets to lower legs in accordance with the leg pocket guide (template). The edge of the pockets shall be turned under 3/8 inch. The pocket will finish 4 inches from the front and back corners to the hem and 3-3/4 inches from the finished hem at the side seam.

301 LSd-2 10-12

29. Leg hems.

Turn overedged edge under 3/8 inch and then

1-1/4 inch for the hem. Topstitch 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 EFb-1 10-12

30. Preparation of leg bottom for gusset cover.

Fold the leg bottom along the centerline matching the pattern marks and topstitch 1/16 inch from the folded edge to create the gusset.

301 OSf-1 10-12

NOTE: The gusset can be sewn before stitching the hem (Operation 28) if desired.

31. Leg zippers.

a. Double stitch the zipper tapes to the notched side of the lower leg zipper cover. The beading shall cover the zipper teeth. The first row shall be 1/4 inch from the bead stitching.

301 LSd-2 10-12

b. Repeat 31a on the opposite zipper tape with another cover.

c. Repeat 31a and 31b for the other leg zipper covers.

d. Double topstitch the leg zipper to the lower legs in accordance with marks on pattern and left front and right front leg placement marker. The edges of the covers shall be turned under 3/8 inch. The finished edge of the covers shall end at the hemline

301 LSd-2 10-12

32. Belt assembly.

a. To secure the waist adjustment tab to the elastic, fold the edge of the waist adjustment tab under 3/8 inch and position the fold 1/2 inch from the end of the elastic. Stitch a box X, 3/8 inch by 7/8 inch. Repeat with other tab on other end of the elastic.

LSd-1

b. Center the elastic on the center back of the waist seam. Stitch a vertical bartack through the elastic and the coveralls at the intersection of the waist and seat seams.

bartack 16-22 per bartack

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

32. Belt assembly – Continued.

c. Double fold the short ends of the back belt casing to the inside 1/4 inch and topstitch 1/16 inch from the last fold.

301 EFb-1 10-12

d. Double topstitch the two long edges of the back belt casing to the coveralls back. The edges of the belt casing shall be turned under 3/8 inch. The belt casing shall be centered over the waist seam.

301 LSd-2 10-12

e. Position the loop waist fastener tape to the right and left fronts centered over the lower edge of the breast pockets, extending from the side seam toward the front edge of breast pocket, and stitch on all four sides 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. The fastener tape shall be aligned with the waist adjustment tabs.

301 LSbj-1

33. Inseam.

Double-lap double-stitch the inseams with the backs overlapping the fronts.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

34. Joining of collar to neck.

a. Sew the undercollar to the neck with a single row of stitching 3/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Turn under the raw edge and top stitch the top collar to the neckline seam with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSd-1 10-12

c. Topstitch the collar 1/4 inch from the edge with a single row of stitching.

301 SSe-2 (b)

10-12

35. Hanger loop.

a. Fold the hanger loop lengthwise in accordance with the notches to finish 1/2 inch wide by 4 inches long.

Stitch to secure.

301 EFp-2 10-12

b. Position the hanger loop on the inside center of the back to the neck, 1 (±1/4) inch below the neckline seam, and secure at the ends with double stitching or bartacks.

301 or bartack

LSd-2 10-12 or 28-32

36. Labels.

Position the labels approximately 1 inch from the neck seam, centered directly below the hanger loop, on the inside back of the coverall. Stitch on all four sides 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

Seam & Stitching

Type Stitches per Inch

37. Additional bartacks.

The bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch in length and positioned as follows:

bartack 16-22 per bartack

a. One adjacent to the bottom stop of the front zipper, catching the zipper tapes and the protective fly.

b. One across the center front zipper tapes, centered between the bottom stop and the inseam, joining the edges of both tapes and catching the protective fly.

c. One horizontal bartack across the bottom of stitching on each side of the leg zipper covers close to the beading at the hemline.

d. One at the top the leg zipper covers adjacent to the zipper stop joining the beaded edges.

e. Two on each breast pocket, pencil pocket, thigh pocket and lower leg pocket; one at each end of the zipper cover adjacent to the zipper stop,…