pgc 03911 spec NCTRF PD-87038D.pdf

NCTRF PD-87038E

CAGE CODE: 32263

8 February 2016

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD-87038D

23 December 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, MEN’S (BLUE, ENLISTED)

This document is approved for use by Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for a man’s 100% wool service dress blue 13 button trouser.

1.2 Classification. The trousers are of one type and available in following sizes and lengths (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Sizes: 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50.

1.2.2 Lengths: Extra-Short (XS), Short (S), Regular (R), Long (L) and Extra-Long (XL).

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.3.

NCTRF PD 87038E

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-17143 - Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) MIL-C-21852 - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon MIL-DTL-823 - Cloth, Serge, Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

DRAWINGS

01-NCTRF-15 - Crowtack Stitch Enlargement

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(For access to samples and/or pattern drawings, see 6.3) http://quicksearch.dla.mil/

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 - Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 - Gray Scale for Color Staining AATCC Test Method 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC Test Method 16.3 - Colorfastness to Light: Xenon AATCC Test Method 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC Test Method 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies of are available on line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 204 - Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D 1907 - Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the Skein Method ASTM D 3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams ASTM D 6775 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Webbing, Tape and Braided Material

(Copies of documents are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM INTERNATIONAL, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428- 2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test-Modified Draize Procedure-Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fifth edition), A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp. 1378-1385 - 1060, 2008.

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com or from Taylor and Francis, 7625 Empire Drive, Florence KY 41042.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.com/

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be wool, serge, 15 ounces per linear yard cloth in Blue 3346 conforming to Type I, Class 5 as specified in MIL-DTL-823 (see 6.2).

3.2.2 Cloth, twill. The material for the pocketing and waistband lining, shall be a 2/1 twill conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be black.

3.2.3 Thread. Requirements for thread size, ticket numbers, and ply are specified in 3.6.2.1.

3.2.3.1 Thread, covered, cotton. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be cotton covered polyester core conforming to Type I of A-A-50199. Polyester-covered polyester core thread shall not be used.

3.2.3.1.1 Thread color (Blue). The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.3.2 Thread, cotton alternate. As an alternate to the thread specified in 3.2.3.1 cotton thread may be used conforming to Type I of A-A-52094.

3.2.3.2.1 Thread, color (Blue). The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.3.3 Thread, automatic button sewing. When an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation simulating hand sewing is used. The thread shall be nylon waxed monocord Special No. 5, having a breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2150 yards and shall be tested for these requirements in accordance with 4.4.2. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.2.3.4 Thread, crowtack. The thread for the crowtack shall be Type I of A-A-50199. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.2.3.4.1 Thread, color (Blue). The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.3.5. Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall have soft or glazed finish, Tex size 180-210 conforming to A-A-50198. The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1). The dyed gimp shall show colorfastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration. The dyed gimp shall show a colorfastness rating of 3-4 when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.2.4 Buttons.

3.2.4.1 Waistband button. The plastic, insignia, sewing-hole-type buttons shall be 25-ligne, anchor emblem, Navy Shade Black 400 in accordance with the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, and shall conform to Class 1 of MIL-B-17143.

3.2.4.2 Faux broadfall buttons. The buttons for the faux broadfall shall be plastic, insignia, sewing-hole-type buttons shall be 25-ligne, anchor emblem, Navy Shade Black 400 in accordance with the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, and shall conform to Class 1 of MIL- B-17143, except shall have a flat back.

3.2.5 Binding. The binding for raw edges shall be nylon taffeta cloth conforming to Type IV of MIL-C-21852. The color shall be black.

3.2.6 Tape. The tape for the hanger loops and reinforcing the front crotch and seat seam shall be cotton, 1/2 or 5/8 inch wide cotton tape dyed black, conforming to Type I, Class 3 of A-A-52071 (see 6.5), except colorfastness to bleaching is not required.

3.2.7 Slide fastener. The trouser slide fastener shall conform to Type I, Style 1, or as an alternate Type I, Style 5; Size 3-4 cam or semi-automatic locking, short tab pull of A-A-55634 (see 6.4).

All metal components of the slide fastener shall be black oxidized brass, except for the cover and spring on a semi-automatic pin lock which shall be stainless steel. All component parts shall be from the same contractor. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be black.

3.2.8 Lace. The lace for the back opening shall be a braid and have plastic tips and shall conform to the following requirements (when tested as specified in 4.4.2). The lace shall show colorfastness to light, wet-dry cleaning, and perspiration. The lace shall show a colorfastness rating of 3-4 when testing as specified in 4.4.2.

Yarn Polyester, 150 Denier, continuous filament Braid (lace) Flat, non-tubular, 33 carriers, 2 or 3 ends per carrier 26 picks per inch (min) Color Black Weight 6.25 ounces per 100 laces (min) Breaking Strength 45 pounds (min) Length 37 inches (+ 1/-0) inclusive of plastic tips Width 10/32 inch (± 1/32) Plastic Tips Both ends, 3/4 inch long, black

3.2.9 Labels.

3.2.9.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each trouser shall have a combination personal/identification/instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from its edge and shall not go through the printing. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the following inscription:

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

3.2.9.2 Size label. Each trouser shall have a size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall also reflect the body length designation adjacent to the size designation. Abbreviation for the applicable length shall be XS for Extra Short, S for Short, R for Regular, L for Long, and XL for Extra Long. The inscription shall be as stated below:

Example

3.2.9.3 Removable size ticket. Each trouser shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband, two inches to the left of the left side gusset stitching. The ticket shall be 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (38R- Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size and length shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.2.9.2.

3.2.9.4 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The label shall conform to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The barcode element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be

NAME:

TROUSERS, MEN’S (BLUE DRESS)

FIBER CONTENT: 100% WOOL

CONTRACT NO: SPE100-00-0-0000 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (If other than contractor):

LOT NUMBER 1/

USE AND CARE

CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS:

DRY CLEANING ONLY

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

PRESS GARMENT INSIDE OUT

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

34L 8405-00-000-0000 located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The tag shall not cause a spot or stain on the garment.

OR

A commercial type combination removable size ticket and barcode label may be used, and shall fold over the top of the waistband. All information shall be visible on inner side and outer side of the paper tag and at the top fold of the paper tag (top of waistband) (see 3.2.9.3 and 3.2.9.4). The information on inner side and outer side of the combination ticket/label shall include:

SIZE

NSN

BARCODE

UPC

The top fold of the paper tag (top of waistband) shall include the SIZE only.

3.2.10 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.2.1. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.2)

3.3 Design. The trousers shall have a faux 13 button broadfall front with a center front slide fastener fly opening, a button closure at top of waistband, a laced placket type gusset at the waist on center back, two horizontal hanging front pockets, one horizontal hanging right back pocket, and bell bottom legs with no outseams (one piece leg). There shall be crowtacks at the bottom of each faux broadfall opening and at the bottom of the center back gusset. The leg bottoms shall be unhemmed and overedged.

3.4 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.5 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.

Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the document or governed by patterns. The pattern pieces used in Operations 10.d, 10.l and 10.j are permitted to be trimmed in order to accommodate finished specified measurements. No other pattern pieces shall be trimmed. The standard patterns provide 3/8 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as otherwise specified in Table III.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the trouser shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified.

The templates shall be used to verify size, uniformity and/or dimensions of finished garments.

TABLE I. Pattern parts

MATERIAL AND PATTERN PART

NOMENCLATURE

COMPUTER

NOMENCLATURE

NUMBER OF

CUT PARTS

Basic Material (3.2.1) Leg front back PD87038-LEG FRNT BCK 2 Left waistband PD87038-LFT WSBND 1 Right waistband PD87038-RGT WSBND 1 Broadfall backing PD87038-BRDFLL BCKG 2 Gusset facing PD87038-GUSSET FAC 2 Gusset PD87038-GUSSET 1 Front pocket facing PD87038-FRNT PKT FAC 2 Back pocket facing PD87038-BCK PKT FAC 1 Fly PD87038-FLY 1 Crotch piece (optional) PD87038-CROTCH PIECE 2 Broadfall facing PD87038-BRDFLL FAC 2

Pocketing (3.2.2) Left waistband lining PD87038-LFT WBND LIN 1 Right waistband lining PD87038-RGT WBND LIN 1 Front pocket PD87038-FRONT POCKET 2 Back pocket PD87038-BACK POCKET 1

Templates Broadfall V template PD87038-BRDFLL V TMP - Gusset V template PD87038-GUSSET V TMP - Buttonhole template PD87038-BTTNHL TMP - Buttonhole template – Alternate PD87038-BTHL TMP ALT -

3.6.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and the width shall be 1/8 inch (± 1/32). Where stitch type 401 or 101 is used, the hanger loops shall be on the inside of the trousers. Unless otherwise specified edge stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

Double needle stitching shall be 1/4 (± 1/16) inch gauge with the outer row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. During the overedge operations, a knife shall be used for trimming off loose thread ends. The gauge of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. Buttonholes shall be cut clean and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Crowtacks shall be constructed in accordance with Drawing Number 01-NCTRF-15. Use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable provided it does not show on the outside of the finished trousers.

3.6.2.1 Thread and stitch types. The following thread and stitch requirements for use in Table II are for the operations specified in Table III

TABLE II. Thread requirements for stitches

Operation Reference paragraph

Thread Type Stitch type Thread size Ticket No.

Ply

Seaming, stitching, tacking

3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle 50

2 or

301 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45, Bobbin

401 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

503, 504, or

31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Buttonhole 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Bartack 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

301 40 Tex, Needle 40 Tex, Bobbin

TABLE II. Thread requirements for stitches, continued

Operation Reference paragraph

Thread Type Stitch type Thread size Ticket No. Ply

Alternate for seaming and stitching

3.2.4.2 A-A-52094, Type I

401 40 Tex, Needle 30 Tex, Bobbin

503, 504, or

31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Buttonhole 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Bartack 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Crowtack stitching

3.2.3.2 A-A-52094, Type I

Embroidery 60 Tex or 70 Tex, Needle

60 Tex or 35 Tex, Bobbin

B or C

B or 30

3.2.3.4 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle 50 3

Broadfall button sewing

3.2.4.2 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle

2 or

301 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Waistband button sewing

3.2.4.1 Nylon waxed

monochord Special No.5 (see 3.2.3.3)

3.6.2.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table III.

3.7 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched no less than 1/2 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.8 Buttonholes. The waistband buttonhole shall be an eyelet-end, cut first, square-bar type, reinforced with well worked over gimp, gimp trimmed and not visible and with the stitching securely caught in the fabric. The end of the buttonhole shall be bartacked by a separate machine operation. The bartack shall securely catch the ends of the gimp and covering the width of the buttonhole at the end. The purling shall finish on the outside. The finished inside cut length shall be 3/4 inch. The remaining 12 buttonholes are non-functional and shall not be cut through. The non-functional buttonholes shall be an eyelet-end square-bar type, reinforced with well worked over gimp with bartacked ends.

3.9 Manufacturing operations requirements. The trousers shall be made in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table V. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified, provided the finished trousers are identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as specified in Table III. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment.

3.10 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table III shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine.

3.11 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the trouser shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.12 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table III are as follows:

Stch - Stitch Brtck - Bartack btn - Button smlr - similar Btnhl - Buttonhole Cn’d - Continued min - minimum S E - Stitch Enlargement

TABLE III. – Construction of trousers

No. Operation STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

1.

2.

3.

Cutting.

a. The trousers shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall show size, shape, and directional lines for cutting, and notches and pattern marks for proper assembly of parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material, except gusset, gusset facing and pocket facings, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall be a good match to the main assembly.

c. Cut the twill cloth lining in accordance with furnished patterns. The waistband (bias cut) may be strip cut and placed on rolls.

d. The binding shall be cut on a 45 (± 5) degree angle in strips of 7/8 to 1 inch wide.

The ends of the strips shall be seamed together.

Replacement of defective components.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components with material defects or damages that are classified as defects in section 4 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

Shade and size marking.

All parts shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade, size and proper assembly throughout the garment, except those parts cut from ends which shall a good match to the shade of the trousers.

SSa-1

10-12

TABLE III. Construction of trousers, continued

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

4.

5.

Edge finishing.

NOTE: Extreme caution should be taken to minimize fraying of the edges prior to finishing.

a. All raw edges (except leg bottoms) in the finished trouser shall be bound. The binding shall finish 3/16 to 1/4 inch wide.

b. As an alternate, the raw edges of the seat seam, inseams, gusset, gusset facing, and crotch piece may be overedged.

c. Overedge the leg bottoms

Make broadfall.

a. Mark broadfall opening according to pattern marks on inside of Fronts. Position Broadfall Facing to Front, face to face, according to marks on pattern, with tops aligned, and all parts smooth and flat.

b. Stitch 1/8 inch from raw edge of the broadfall opening, according to stitch line marks on pattern, stopping stitching even with the bottom of opening and backstitch.

c. Turn Broadfall Facing to finished position.

d. Place Broadfall Backing to Broadfall Facing, face to face, matching notch to broadfall opening and bind around sides and bottom edges, making sure broadfall assembly lies flat and smooth.

e. Double needle topstitch broadfall opening sides through all plies, 1/16 inch from the folded edge, stopping even with the bottom of opening and backstitch.

or 401

503 or 504 or

503 or

301 or

BSc-1

EFd-1

SSv-1

SSv-2

12-14

8-10

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

5.

Cn’d

6.

Ends of stitching shall be covered by crowtack stitching (operation 23.b). The Broadfall Facing shall not be exposed on face side. The opening shall be evenly spaced. No more than 1/4 inch gap shall be permitted.

Broadfall “V” stitching.

a. Place broadfall “V” template on front, aligning top of broadfall “V” template with raw edge of waist, while aligning with slit opening on template, in accordance with pattern marks. Mark outside line to establish outer row of the double needle topstitching.

b. Double needle stitch around marked line uniformly through all plies (front and broadfall assembly). Start stitching from outer edge at top of slacks following line to the front slide fastener opening. The stitching shall form a uniform “V” centered under the slit opening. The distance between the bottom of the slit opening to the outside line of stitching at the point of the “V” shall measure 1-1/4 (±1/8) inches for sizes 4-6 and 1-1/2 (±1/8) inches for sizes 8-26.

c. The double needle stitching shall be straight, evenly gauged 1/4 (±1/16) inch and corners squared with no thread floats. Left and right sides of broadfall “V” stitching shall be identical and align to center front.

SSv-2

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

7.

8.

Mark and sew broadfall buttonholes.

a. Broadfall buttonholes shall be marked and positioned as indicated by Buttonhole Marker or Buttonhole Marker Alt template.

The eyelet end of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the finished edges of broadfall, when measured from center of the eyelet.

b. All 12 buttonholes shall be non-functional 3/4 inch long, eyelet end, square bar reinforced with well worked over gimp with the stitching securely caught in the fabric. The purling shall finish on the outside. The gimp shall be caught in the fabric.

c. The ends of all buttonholes shall be bartacked by machine securely catching ends of gimp and covering the width of the bar. Bartacking shall be a separate operation.

Make and attach pockets (2 front and 1 right back) and attach combination label.

a. Overedge the bottom raw edge of pocket facing.

b. Place facing right side up on the top un-notched edge of pocket piece and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge.

c. Stitch lower edge of facing, 1/4 inch from serged edge, to pocket piece.

d. Stitch unfaced end of pockets to top edge of front and back of legs face to face matching notches on top of trouser panel

(facing side down). Clip notches the depth of the seam allowance, turn to underside and

Btnhl

Brtck

503 or

LSa-1

SSe-3

45-50 per btnhl

21 per brtck (min)

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

8.

Cn’d double stitch across the pocket opening continue stitching to edge of outer edge of “V” stitching as applicable. (See Figure 3).

e. Continue bottom row of stitching from pocket opening across to center front.

f. Stitch a combination label on all four sides with label centered on underside of back pocket. Top edge of label shall be 3- 1/2 (± 1/2) inches from bottom finished edge of pocket. Label shall face the trousers when worn.

g. Fold pockets in half upwards, and stitch and overedge stitch sides. This operation may be accomplished simultaneously or by two separate operations.

The finished pocket measurements for the applicable trouser sizes shall be as follows:

Front

Sizes 26 to 30 Opening – 4-1/4 (± 1/4) inches Depth – 6 (± 1/4) inches

Sizes 31 to 50 Opening – 5-1/4 (± 1/4) inches Depth – 6 (± 1/4) inches and 503 or 504 or or 515 or 516 or

LSbj-1

SSa-2

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

8.

9.

10.

Back hip Sizes 26 to 30 Opening – 3-5/8 (± 1/4) inches Depth

– 6 (± 1/4) inches

Sizes 31 to 50 Opening – 4-1/4 (± 1/4) inches Depth

– 6 (± 1/4) inches

Attach hanger loops.

a. The hanger loops shall be centered on the top of each leg panel. The loops shall be folded in half and stay stitched in place.

OR

b. The hanger loop may be attached during operation 10d and need not be stay stitched.

c. The finished hanger loop shall have a 1- 1/4 (± 1/4) inches free opening.

Set up and attach waistband and attach size label.

a. Tack or stitch gusset facing to waistband at center back 3/16 inch seam, face to face, to maintain proper position. Stitching shall not extend into waist attachment seam allowance at bottom of waistband.

b. Fold waistband lining lengthwise in accordance with marks on pattern and crease.

c. Position Right Waistband Lining to Right Waistband, and stitch on two sides; top and front end of waistband with 1/4 (±1/16) inch seam allowance, catching top of gusset facing between the lining and waistband.

Position Left Waistband Lining to Left or tack

SSe-2(a)

3-6

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

10.

Cn’d

Waistband and stitch as for Right Waistband Lining, except at the center front the stitching shall continue along the bottom edge of the waistband extension, up to the center front notch and backstitch.

Turn waistbands right side out, forcing out edges and center front corners.

d. Turn front slide fastener opening seam allowances inside at notches. Stitch lower edge of waistband to trouser matching notches, 1/4 to 3/8 inch from edge, securely catching pockets, pocket facings, and hanger loops in the seams. Gusset facing shall not be caught in stitching. Turn waistband seam allowance up into waistband.

e. Starting at the top of the waistband stitch gusset facing/waistband assembly to center back seam, along the length of gusset facing with 1/8 to 3/16 inch seam allowance.

f. Turn gusset facing/waistband assembly to finished position. Edge stitch each waistband top and sides including left front extension and right front end, 1/16 to 1/8 gauge.

g. Edgestitch waistband joining seam (with seam allowance turned into waistband and front opening seam allowances turned inside), catching the waistband lining and the top of the pockets in the stitching.

h. Stitch top edge of size label to the lower edge of the waistband lining above the left front pocket. The ends of the stitching need not be tacked provided the stitching extends at least 1/2 inch beyond each side of label.

The stitching shall not be through the printing.

SSe-2(b)

Smlr to SSq-2(b)

LSa-1

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

11.

12.

i. Edgestitch, 1/16 to 1/8 inch, center back opening from top of waistband to step.

j. Finished width of waistband shall measure 1-7/8 (± 1/8) inches.

k. Finished width of waistband lining shall measure 2-3/8 (± 1/8) inches.

l. Finished length of band extension shall be 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches.

Mark and sew left waistband buttonhole.

a. Buttonhole should be marked and positioned on the left waistband extension.

Buttonhole should be placed horizontally at the center of waistband, 1/2 (+1/8) inch from the finished front edge. All thread ends shall be trimmed and buttonholes cleaned.

b. The ends of all buttonholes shall be bartacked by machine securely catching ends of gimp and covering the width of the bar. Bartacking shall be a separate operation (operation 20a).

Make eyelets on back opening.

a. Circular type, 3/16 inch (inside diameter) eyelets shall be positioned on both sides of the back opening as indicated below. The purling shall be on the inside.

Waistband eyelets Top eyelet, 1/2 inch from side and top edge. Second eyelet, 1/2 inch from the side and 3/4 inch below top eyelet.

Btnhl

Brtk

Eyelet

SSe-2(b) 12-14

45-50 per btnhl brtck

22 per eyelet

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

INCH

12.

13.

14.

Lower gusset eyelets The third eyelet shall be 1/2 inch from lower edge of waistband and side edges.

The remaining eyelets shall be 1/2 inch from side edges and 9/16 inch down from the third and each other. The number of eyelets listed below indicates the number on each side of opening (excluding waistband) for applicable trouser sizes:

Sizes Number of eyelets/side 26 thru 30 4 31 thru 34 5 35 thru 50 6

NOTE: Measurement for placement of eyelets shall be taken from center of eyelet, with a ± 1/16 inch tolerance.

b. Clean all eyelets of loose thread and fabric.

Join backs.

a. Crotch piece (optional) – Crotch pieces for trouser sizes 32 and above, shall be stitched to the back inseam of the leg pieces; spread seams open and double stitch 3/16 inch gauge.

b. Join the two back pieces, face to face, and stitch seat seam from crotch to bottom of back opening at the step. Press seams open and flat.

Join front.

a. Prepare fronts for slide fastener by stitching center front seam, face to face, from crotch to fly notch, 3/8 (± 1/16) inch from edge.

b. Press seam open and flat.

SSz-3

SSad-3(a)

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

15.

16.

17.

Attach slide fastener to front.

a. Turn under front slide fastener opening seam allowance 3/4 (± 1/16) inch uniformly. Place the slide fastener face up with the fold of the opening on top of the slide fastener tape along the chain.

b. Position slide fastener at center front opening having chain even with the folded edges of the opening and even with the top of the waistband. Stitch continuously 5/16 (±1/16) inch from the folded edges of the opening, starting at the left side top of the waistband, crossing the crotch seam at the fly notch, and ending at the top of the right waistband.

c. Stitch a bartack across the crotch seam to cover the slide fastener attachment stitching

d. The slide fastener chain shall not be visible on the outside of the finished trousers when closed. The folds of the opening shall meet at the center front without overlapping and shall finish smooth and flat without distortion.

e. Stitch a 3/8 inch bartack at end of inside fly (to relieve tension) through fly and left front seam allowance, with a bartack parallel to the center front, 1 inch above base of fly.

Join inseams.

Stitch inseams 3/8 inch from the edge matching notches at the knee as indicated on pattern. Press seam open and flat.

Tape seat seam.

a. Double stitch the tape, 3/8 inch gauge, from bottom of back gusset opening to

LSb-1

SSad-3 brtck (min)

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

INCH

17.

18.

bottom of front slide fastener chain, and covering the inseam intersection. The topstitching shall align with slide fastener attachment stitching and stop at fly bartack.

Trim tape 1 (± 1/8) inch above bottom of slide fastener chain tape. Tape shall finish approximately even with the bottom stop of slide fastener and shall extend into the gusset 1/2 to 1 inch.

b. Bartack across the width of tape 1/8 to 3/8 inch from each folded edge superimposed on fly bartack in operation 15.c.

Make and attach fly.

a. Fold fly in half at notches face to face and stitch the top with 1/4 (+ 1/16 inch) seam allowance. Turn fly out to finish position forcing out corners. Bind side and bottom edges. Ends of binding shall be extended and tacked to underside.

b. Position fly face up under slide fastener opening with fly top aligned to the top of right front end of waistband and fly fold aligned to outer edge of slide fastener assembly. Attach fly to waistband front end through all piles matching existing slide fastener attachment line of stitching from top to the bottom of waistband.

c. Align the folded edge of the fly with the cut edge of the right front opening allowance. Topstitch the entire length of folded edge of the fly matching existing slide fastener attachment line of stitching, catching the right opening allowance in the stitching.

SSbe-2(a)

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

INCH

18.

19.

With slide fastener closed, position left slide fastener seam allowance to fly.

Keeping trouser front free, stitch 1/8 to 1/4 inch gauge from serged edge of seam allowance. Stitching shall extend from bottom of fly for a distance of approximately 2 inches.

e. Secure the end of fly opening with bartack superimposed on the stitching in operation 18d, approximately 2 inches from the bottom of the fly.

Attach gusset piece (back opening).

a. Fold top of gusset to underside 3/8 (± 1/8) inch and double stitch turned edge, 3/16 to 1/4 inch gauge.

b. Place gusset piece across back opening on underside with edge of gusset overlapping edge of facing 1/16 to 1/8 inch and double stitch to back edge of facings through back forming a uniform “V” across seat seam according to Gusset “V” marker. Top of gusset piece shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch below top of waistband and bottom point 1-1/2 (± 1/4) inches below the end of the back opening. The outer row of the double stitching shall be 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

NOTE: The point of the design “V” stitch shall be centered on the seat seam.

c. Finished width of gusset piece at top for applicable trouser sizes shall measure:

Sizes 26 thru 30 – 4-5/8 (± 1/4) inches Sizes 31 thru 34 – 5 (± 1/4) inches Sizes 35 thru 50 – 5-1/2 (± 1/4) inches

LSbj-1

EFa-2

Smlr LSa-2

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

INCH

19.

20.

21.

The opening between top of waistband at gusset shall measure 1 (+ 1/4, - 0) inch.

Sew bartacks and crowtacks.

a. Stitch 1/2 inch long vertical bartacks at each end of the pocket openings.

b. Make a crowtack at the bottom of each side of broadfall opening and one at the bottom of back opening. The center ray shall point downward and align vertically with the opening. The opposite rays shall point horizontally and measure 3/4 (±1/16) inch between their tips. The three rays shall be executed in accordance with stitch enlargement number 01-NCTRF-15 and shall completely cover the prescribed background design area in a close, dense, and tightly drawn manner to produce a clear, sharp execution of the design with no background cloth visible. No damages or repairs of crowtacks shall be permitted on trouser.

Attach buttons.

a. For all buttons the crown on the anchor shall point downward. The stitching shall follow the sewing guide grooves of the buttons. All stitches shall be in the button’s grooves (vertical when worn) except for the cross-over stitch.

b. Twelve (12) buttons shall be stitched on top of nonfunctioning buttonholes through all layers of faux broadfall and facing, in alignment with the eyelet ends of the buttonholes. The thirteenth button shall be sewn to the right side of the slide fastener opening, through all plies, on the slide fastener stitching, and shall be in

Crow-tack or 301

28 per

See S E 01-

NCTRF-15

20-22 per btn

14-16 per btn

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

INCH

21.

22.

horizontal alignment with the top buttons of the faux broadfall.

All thirteen (13) buttons shall be tacked flat with no shank wrapping, through all plies of material without catching the pockets or interfering with slide fastener.

c. One (1) button shall be sewn through all plies of material on right waistband in alignment with the buttonhole on left waistband. The button shall have the thread tightly wrapped not less than four times around to form a 1/8 to 3/16 inch shank. Thread ends on button shall be hidden and securely tied off with not less than 2 stitch.

Cleaning, pressing, lacing and finishing.

a. Remove all shade tickets.

b. Remove all spots, stains and lint formation.

c. Trim thread ends and remove all loose ends of thread both inside and outside.

d. Insert laces into one bottom eyelet of back opening and secure with single knot.

e. Button waistband button and press top of trousers.

f. Turn trousers inside out. Crease inner and outer legs neatly. The crease on the inner leg shall be along the back side of the overedge stitching and shall be on the back part of the leg.

g. Remove gloss and impressions.

or 301

20-22 per btn

14-16 per btn

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH PER

INCH

22.

23.

h. Attach removable size ticket to outside of waistband, centered on the left back part of the leg.

i. Attach combination ticket/label above the left front pocket on waistband.

NOTE:

(1). Care shall be taken when trimming thread ends that damage to the fabric does not occur.

(2). When buck pressing, apply vacuum only after unlocking. When automatic press is used, apply bottom steam and dry only.

(3). If impressions and gloss occur, the buck may be lowered in that area without locking, and the garments may be steamed and dried.

Folding.

Each trouser, turned inside out, shall be folded as follows:

a. Fold trouser in half lengthwise with the seat seam/inseam intersection tucked inside forming straight lines on the inseams and outseams.

b. Fold trouser in thirds across the length so the folded dimension is approximately 11-1/2 inches by 15 inches. For the longer trouser lengths it may be necessary to fold up the bottom of the trouser legs 4 to 8 inches before folding trousers into thirds.

or or

2-4 per

6-8 per tack

2-4 per tack 6-8 per

3.13 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished trousers shall be as shown in Table VI when measured as specified in 4.4.4. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE IV. – Finished measurements

Size Waist (A)

Seat (B)

Knee (C)

Leg Bottom (D)

Thigh (E)

26 26 33 22-1/8 23-3/8 23 27 27 34 22-1/4 23-1/2 23-5/8 28 28 35 22-3/8 23-5/8 24-1/4 29 29 36 22-1/2 23-3/4 24-7/8 30 30 37 22-5/8 23-7/8 25-1/2 31 31 38 22-3/4 24 26-1/8 32 32 39 22-7/8 24-1/8 26-3/4 33 33 40 23 24-1/4 27-3/8 34 34 41 23-1/8 24-3/8 28 35 35 42 23-1/4 24-1/2 28-5/8 36 36 43 23-3/8 24-5/8 29-1/4 37 37 44 23-1/2 24-3/4 29-7/8 38 38 45 23-5/8 24-7/8 30-1/2 40 40 47 23-7/8 25-1/8 31-3/4 42 42 49 24-1/8 25-3/8 33 44 44 51 24-3/8 25-5/8 34-1/4 46 46 53 24-5/8 25-7/8 35-1/2 48 48 55 24-5/8 25-7/8 36-3/4 50 50 57 24-5/8 25-7/8 38

Tol. +3/4 -1/2

+3/4 -1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 3/4

Sizes Inseam (F)

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

26 - 50 31 33 35 37 39

Tol. + 3/4 + 3/4 + 3/4 + 3/4 + 3/4

3.14 Workmanship. The finished trouser shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. As a final step in the contractor’s quality control plan before formation of a lot, each dress trouser shall be examined after pressing and folding for packaging, and a trouser containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in MIL-STD-1488 and section 4.4.3. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value of defect limit.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article inspections shall consists of the examinations and tests specified in 4.4.2 through 4.4.4 shall be inspected for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, appearance, and dimensional requirements specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless other specified, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document. The sample shall be one finished trouser. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations specified in 4.4.1 and 4.4.2 through 4.4.4.

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-1488. The sample shall be one finished pair of trousers. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. Trousers shall be evaluated as Dress

(D) under MIL-STD-1488.

4.3.1.1 Conformance inspection samples for lace. Sampling for conformance for width and length of the laces shall be performed as stated below. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the sample unit shall one lace. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more laces fail to meet any length or width requirements specified.

Lot size (laces) Sample size (of sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

4.4.Inspection methods.

4.4.1 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified, as a defect in accordance with MIL- STD-1488, provisions for Dress (D) trousers and Table VI shall be removed from production.

4.4.2 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.3, components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests of Table V.

TABLE V. Component and material verification

Material Characteristic Requirement Verification 1/ Basic material All 3.2.1 MIL-DTL-823 Pocketing/Linings All 3.2.2 A-A-52106 Thread, polyester All 3.2.3.1 A-A-50199 Thread, cotton (alt) All 3.2.3.2 A-A-52094 Thread, nylon Material identification 3.2.3.3 AATCC 20A

Shade 3.2.3.3 Visual 2/ Break strength 3.2.3.3 ASTM D204 Length per pound 3.2.3.3 ASTM 1907 Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.3.3 AATCC 16.3 Opt 3 3/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.3.3 AATCC 132 4/ Perspiration 3.2.3.3 AATCC 15 4/ Thread, crowtack All 3.2.3.4 A-A-52094 Thread, gimp Material identification 3.2.3.5 A-A-50198

Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.3.5 AATCC 16.3 Opt 3 3/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.3.5 AATCC 132 4/ Perspiration 3.2.3.5 AATCC 15 4/ Buttons All 3.2.4 MIL-B-17143 Binding All 3.2.5 MIL-C-21852 Tape All 3.2.6 A-A-52071 Slide Fastener All 3.2.7 A-A-55634 Lace Material identification 3.2.8 AATCC 20A

Shade 3.2.8 Visual 5/ Yarn:

Continuous filament 3.2.8 Visual Fiber Size 3.2.8 AATCC 20A Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.8 AATCC 16.3 Opt 3 3/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.8 AATCC 132 4/ Perspiration 3.2.8 AATCC 15 4/ Braid 3.2.8 ASTM D 3775 Weight 3.2.8 ASTM D 3776 Opt D Break Strength 3.2.8 ASTM D 6775 Length 3.2.8 6/ Width 3.2.8 7/ Plastic Tips 3.2.8 Visual 8/ Labels All 3.2.9 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ When end item document is cited, all requirements and test methods listed in applicable end item document shall be performed

2/ One spool of thread shall be evaluated for shade conformance. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail

3/ The specimen shall be exposed to Option 3 for 170 Kilojoules. Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.

4/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedures 1 and 2. Only the stain on the cotton fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated.

5/ One sample 6 inch length shall be evaluated for shade conformance. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail

6/ Length test. The finished laces shall not be stretched or placed under tension, prior to the length test. The finished lace shall be suspended vertically under a load of 3 ounces. Then measure the lace from end to end, including tips. Results shall be reported as pass or fail.

7/ Width test. The finished lace width shall be determined at three points at least 9 inches apart on each specimen in the sample unit. The measurements shall be taken by steel ruler graduated in thirty-seconds of an inch or by a caliper-type gauge. Measurements shall be taken with the specimen suspended vertically under a load of 3 ounces. The results of all determinations on the sample unit shall be averaged and reported to the nearest 1/32 inch. Results shall be reported as pass or fail.

8/ A pair of plastic tips shall be dimensional and visually inspected for conformance. The results shall be recorded as pass or fail.

4.4.2.1 Toxicity test. When required (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure. (See 2.3). If the requirement (see 3.12) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity may not be required.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The trousers shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking and the defects classified in accordance with the provisions for (D) trousers in MIL-STD-1488 and in accordance with the list of defects specified in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Defects

Defects Point Value

1. BUTTONS

a. Shank wrapping omitted or not trimmed to less than 1/4 inch (waistband button only)

b. Not aligned or misplaced with faux buttonholes:

1. Less than three buttons

2. More than three but less than six buttons

3. Six or more buttons

c. Bottom of anchor not pointing downward

d. Button stitching (other than cross-over stitch) not in grooves

2. BUTTONHOLES

a. Ragged edges (yarns or thread ends on inside of buttonholes not trimmed to less than 1/4 inch or basic fabric not caught by buttonhole stitching):

1. One or more but less than six buttonholes

2. Occurring in six or more buttonholes

b. Buttonholes out of alignment with each other by more than 1/8 inch

c. Faux buttonhole cut through

3. EYELETS

a. Not specified type or size, stitching incomplete, purling on wrong side, one or more broken or two or more skipped stitches.

b. Eyelet misplaced.

c. Fabric not completely cut from center of eyelet of two or more eyelets.

d. Thread not cut to within 1/4 inch on two or more eyelets.

4. CROWTACKS AND BARTACKS

a. Missing, insecure, not positioned as specified, not as specified, or not serving intended purpose.

- one crowtack

- one bartack

- two or more crowtacks or bartacks

b. One or more skipped or broken stitches.

- in one crowtack or bartack

- in two or more crowtacks or bartacks

c. Crooked, i.e., opposite rays of crowtack deviate from vertical or horizontal axis, as applicable or causing distortion.

d. Crowtacks set more than 1/16 inch away from bottom of gusset opening or broadfall point

e. Incomplete cover, i.e., background cloth visible.

TABLE VI. Defects, continued

4. CROWTACKS AND BARTACKS, continued

f. Bobbin threads visible, affecting appearance.

g. Any crowtack not in accordance with Drawing 01-NCTRF-15.

h. Any trouser with damaged or repaired crowtacks.

i. Any crowtack not smooth and flat or puckered

5. GUSSET BACK OPENING

a. Gusset exposed above top edge of waistband.

b. Finished width of gusset not as specified (measured at top).

c. Measurement of opening (from tip to tip) not as specified.

d. Gusset not overlapping facing or overlapping by more than 1/8 inch.

e. Point of design stitching not centered on seat seam.

6. BROADFALL

a. Top edge of broadfall 1/4 inch or more above or below the waistband joining seam.

b. Side opening of broadfall not uniformly spaced from top to bottom by more than 1/4 inch.

c. Side opening of broadfall overlapping front of trousers.

d. Facing exposed beyond edge of broadfall.

e. More than 1/4 inch gap between broadfall and trouser edge.

7. BINDING (OR OVEREDGING)

a. One required raw edge not bound or overedged.

b. Two or more required raw edges not bound or overedged.

c. Width of finished binding not as specified.

8. SLIDE FASTENER

a. Slide fastener chain exposed at center front seam.

9. SEAMS

a. Reinforcement tape omitted.

b. Reinforcement tape not securely caught in seams.

c. Reinforcement tape not centered on seam or not finished as specified.

10. POCKETS

a. Pockets too full or tight causing gapping or fullness.

b. Top edge…