ODU TROUSERS CG PD 19-02 2_13_19.pdf

INCH-POUND

CG/PD 19-02

February 13, 2019

SUPERCEDING

CG/PD 17-04A

April 11, 2018

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSER, OPERATIONAL DRESS UNIFORM, UNTUCKED (COAST GUARD)

This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Homeland Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for the US Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform (ODU) trouser worn by US Coast Guard personnel.

1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I - Schedule of sizes

X-Small X-Short

Small X-Short

Medium X-Short

Large X-Short

X-Large

XX-Large

XXX-Large

Short Short Short Short Short --------- Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular --------- Long Long Long Long Long Long Long ------ X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long ---------- X-Long ------ ------- XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: U.S.

Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760-5004

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 and 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-9054. (see 6.2).

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4B - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FED-STD-595B - Colors Used in Government Procurement

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Poly Core Cotton Covered A-A-55634A - Slide Fastener A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-W-5664- Webbing, Textile, Elastic

MIL-DTL-32075 – Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

MIL-T-43566 – Tape, Textile, Cotton or Polyester, General Purpose, Natural or in Colors.

MIL-C-44296 – Cloth, Fusibles

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, Hand Button, Staple (Plastic) http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch http://www.dodssp.daps.mil/

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CG/PD 04-9407A Cloth, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D-76 Standard Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles ASTM D-2256 Tensile Properties of Yarns by Single-Strand Method ASTM D-5034 Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textiles (Grab Test) ASTM D-6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

Copies of these documents are available from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive West Conshohoken, Philadelphia, PA 19428-2959.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven

Fabric AATCC 136 Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics

Copies of these documents are available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215 Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215 or from www.aatcc.org Phone number (919) 549-8141.

ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

Copies of these documents are available from the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308 or from www.ansi.org.)

2.4 Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design and construction. The trousers have a button and concealed slide fastener fly, front panels with a centered single stitched pleat (the fold of the pleat faces the outseam); the pleats shall be stitched down no less than 2-3/4 inches and no more than 3-1/4 inches starting from the bottom of the trouser waistband (see Figure 3), hemmed legs, seven evenly spaced 3/4 +/- 1/8 inch wide belt loops with a 2 1/2 (+ ¼ ) inches belt loop opening. The belt loops shall be located as follows, one at the center back, one on each side seam and one in the center of each front and back panel. The trouser shall have side tab adjustments on the waistband, see Figure 1. The trousers have two side hanging pockets, with the opening between bartacks of no less than 6” and no more than 7-1/4” and two welt opening hip pockets with an opening of 6”. There are two pleated cargo pockets (the pleats face the back of the trousers). Cargo pockets shall come in three sizes based on trouser length – all dimensions shall have a tolerance of (+/- 1/8 inch); for trouser sizes XXS, XS, S, pocket opening dimensions (measured from bartack to bartack) shall be 7 1/2 inches wide, 8 1/8 inches long; for trousers sizes R and L, pocket opening dimensions shall be 7 ½ inches wide, 9 1/8 inches long; for trouser sizes XL and XXL, pocket opening dimensions shall be 7 ½ inches wide, 10 1/8 inches long. The cargo pocket flaps shall be bartacked at forward lower corner and one rear button closure, a bottom bellow and elasticized pocket upper edge creating an adjustable opening to secure the contents when the flap is not buttoned. The elasticized cargo pocket edge requires elongation/extension when the hand is inserted into the pocket yet does not distort the trouser leg when lying in the gathered/relaxed closed position.

All pockets, except for the side hanging ones have a flap with fusible interlining and closure with concealed buttons. The trousers have single layer external reinforcement patches at the seat and knees. The bottom hem on each leg shall be no more then ¾”and no less then ½”. The crotch seams are off-set and bartacked (horizontal) using thread specified in 3.6.2.3.

3.4 Basic material. The basic material shall be nylon/cotton ripstop dyed USCG Blue 3362, conforming to the requirements specified in CG/PD 04-9407A.

3.5 Seconds/mill seconds. Seconds are imperfect fabric containing flaws in the weave, finish, or dyeing. Examples of seconds are fabric containing a mispick or out of tolerance with regard to color/shade. Seconds/mill seconds cloth shall be dyed in conformance with the specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric. (See 3.11.1).

3.5.1 Cloth, side and hip hanging pockets, waistband lining. The cloth for side and hip hanging pockets and waistband lining shall be basic material, and also may be made from seconds.

3.6 Components

3.6.1 Fusible interlining. The interlining shall be a fusible conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, VI or VII, style B or C substrate with class 1 (polyamide) or 3 (Polyethylene, high density) adhesive. The fusible shall meet the bonding strength and shrinkage requirements, initial and after 3 launderings as specified in MIL-C-44296 and in the end item as specified in the Care Label.

3.6.2 Thread, gimp, embroidery thread.

3.6.2.1 Thread. The thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core, commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36-50) with a minimum breaking strength of 3.2 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. As an alternate, Ticket No. 70 (Tex size 31 to 35) with a breaking strength of 2.6 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2 may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. The color shall be black. The thread shall be in accordance with A- A-50199.

3.6.2.2 Alternate Seam Thread. The needle thread for the alternate seams shall be Type II, Tex No. 45-51 in accordance with A-A-59826. The bobbin (looper thread) for the alternate seams shall be commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with minimum break strength of 3.2 lbs conforming to A-A-50199. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.3 Button Attachment Thread. All buttons shall be attached using Type II, Tex No. 45-51 in accordance with A-A-59826.

3.6.2.4 Gimp. Thread for reinforcement of buttonholes shall be cotton, commercial size Ticket No. 8 (Tex size 210) with a minimum breaking strength of 6.5 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color shall be black. The thread shall be in accordance with A-A-50198.

3.6.2.5 Colorfastness. All thread used shall be non-staining and show good colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.6.3 Slide Fastener. The slide fastener shall be Type I, Style 1, Size 3-4, Brass chain with a minimum crosswise strength of 130 lbs with open top and closed staple bottom stop conforming to A-A-55634A, except that the salt spray test shall not apply. The slide fastener shall be a single slider , with semi-automatic cam lock , short pull tab conforming to YKK P/N 0070866 YGRC-459 GSN J 7/16 KENSIN Gov or equal. The color of the tape shall be black. The tape shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with A-A-55634A.

As an alternate, continuous chain and slider may be used in accordance with A-A-55634A Sec 3.8, conforming to YKK P/N 0060937 45YGR 7/16 CHAIN KENSIN N-ANTI GOV and 0035002 45Y GSN8 SLS YKK KENSIN or equal. All components shall be from the same supplier.

3.6.4 Buckles. The buckles for the waist adjustment straps shall be 5/8”, tongue-less, 2-Bar, steel. The color shall be black.

3.6.5 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, class D, style 26, 30-ligne of V-B-871.

The buttons shall be dull finish, 4-hole and shall be in accordance with the following button style:

The color of the buttons shall be a good match to Blue 3362. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking. The buttons shall show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lb when tested as specified in 4.4.4. When attached to the waistband, the button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40 lb. (min.), when tested as specified in 4.4.5.

3.6.6 Tape, textile, cotton. The tapes for the adjustment straps shall be 5/8 inch wide, black conforming to Type I, class 3 of MIL-T-43566, except that the colorfastness to crocking and accelerated weathering shall not apply.

3.6.7 Elastic Webbing. The elastic webbing for the trouser cargo pocket shall conform to Type II, class 1 of MIL-W-5664 or QST style 150-43171RA.

3.6.7.1 Encased elastic construction method: The webbing shall be 1” wide, or as an alternate, 1 ½ (+ -) 1/16 inches may be used. Backstitching with 20-27 stitches may be used in lieu of bartack secure elastic. Elastic ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling and extend beyond the bartack to secure elastic properly. When 1 ½ inch elastic is used, the manufacturer will adjust patterns to accommodate the wider elastic without altering finished dimensions created by GFM patterns and stitching. The color shall be black. The elastic in the cargo pocket opening shall extend the full width to achieve a 6 ¾ to 7 ½ inches relaxed opening. The elastic will retreat to its relaxed opening position when the hand is removed. The elastic webbing for the cargo pocket shall lie flat in the relaxed state and not distort the trouser leg. The cargo pocket opening shall retain its elongation/recovery characteristics for the life of the garment.

3.6.7.2 (Alternate) exposed elastic construction method: As an alternate method to construct encased elasticized top edge cargo pocket use seam type SSt-4, stitch type 301 or 401; two rows of double needle stitch ¼ inch gauge at either edge of the elastic. Each row of stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from either edge of elastic. The 1 ½” (+ -) 1/16” elastic shall be placed inside the top edge with the top end aligned with the upper edge of the cargo pocket and will be sewn and be caught within interior of seam via all four top stitching. No part of the elastic shall be visible from outside of the pocket. The elasticized cargo pocket edge requires elongation/extension when the hand is inserted into the pocket yet does not distort the trouser leg when lying in the gathered (relaxed) closed position. The elastic shall extend the full width of the pocket to achieve a 6 ¾ to 7 ½ inches relaxed opening. The elastic will retreat to its relaxed opening position when hand is removed. The cargo pocket shall retain its elongation/recovery characteristics for the life of the garment.

Cargo pocket features shall conform to the following requirements:

Feature Elongation Force (lbs) Test Method + - 1/16 inch Min to Max Cargo Pocket 1 ½ 2.5 to 3.3 See 4.4.6

3.7 Labels. Each trouser shall have a size label, an identification label, and a care/instruction label. The identification and care labels may be combined. The ground color for all labels shall be white with black lettering, and the inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 point Arial font. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment shall last the expected life of the trouser.

3.7.1 Size label: Size label shall be positioned on inside center back, left of the seat seam and catch in the waistband stitching. The size label shall contain the following information:

X-Small - X-Short X-Small - Short X-Small - Regular X-Small - Long Inseam: Up to Inseam: 27 to Inseam: 30 to Inseam: 33 to 26-1/2 in. 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in. 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in. Waist: Up to 27 in Waist: Up to 27 in. Waist: Up to 27 in.

Small - X-Short Small - Short Small - Regular Small - Long Inseam: Up to Inseam: 27 to Inseam: 30 to Inseam: 33 to 26- 1/2 in 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in. 35- 1/2 in.

Waist: 27-1/2 to 31 in. Waist: 27-1/2 to 31 in. Waist: 27-1/2 to 31 in. Waist: 27-1/2 to 31 in.

Small –X-Long Medium – X-Short Medium – Short Medium – Regular Inseam: 36 to Inseam: Up to Inseam: 27 to Inseam: 30 to 38-1/2 in 26- 1/2 in 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 27-1/2 to 31 in Waist: 31-1/2 to 35 in. Waist: 31-1/2 to 35 in. Waist: 31-1/2 to 35 in.

Medium – Long Medium – X-long Medium – XX-long Large-X-Short Inseam: 33 to Inseam: 36 to Inseam: Over Inseam: Up to 35- 1/2 in. 38-1/2 in. 39 in. 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 31-1/2 to 35 in. Waist: 31-1/2 to 35 in. Waist: 31-1/2 to 35 in. Waist: 35-1/2 to 39 in.

Large-Short

Inseam: 27 to

29-1/2 in.

Waist: 35-1/2 to 39 in.

Large – Regular Large – Long Large– X-Long Large – XX-Long

Inseam: 30 to Inseam: 33 to Inseam: 36 to Inseam: Over 32-1/2 in. 35- 1/2 in. 38-1/2 in 39 in.

Waist: 35-1/2 to 39 in. Waist: 35-1/2 to 39 in. Waist: 35-1/2 to 39 in Waist: 35-1/2 to 39 in.

X-Large – Short X-Large – Regular X-Large–Long X-Large – X-Long Inseam: 27 to Inseam: 30 to Inseam: 33 to Inseam: 36 to 29-1/2 in. 32-1/2 in. 35-1/2 in. 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 39-1/2 to 43 in. Waist: 39-1/2 to 43 in. Waist: 39-1/2 to 43 in. Waist: 39-1/2 to 43 in.

X-Large – XX-Long XX-Large - Long XX Large – XX Long XXX-Large– Long Inseam: Over Inseam: 33 to Inseam: Over Inseam: 33 to 39 in. 35-1/2 in. 39 in.. 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 39-1/2 to 43 in. Waist: 43-1/2 to 47 in. Waist: 43-1/2 to 47 in.. Waist: Over 47 in

XXX-Large – X-Long Inseam: 36 to

38-1/2 in.

Waist: Over 47 in.

3.7.2 Identification label. The identification label shall contain the item description, contract number, fiber content (50% Nylon / 50% Cotton) information and contractor's name.

3.7.3 Care/instruction label. The care/instruction label for the trousers shall conform to class 3 and contain the following information:

3.8 Label placement. The labels shall be sewn on all four sides attached to the trousers and positioned as follows:

3.8.1 Combination Identification and Care/instruction label. Combination identification label (class l) and the care/instruction label (class 3) may be combined into one label. The combination shall conform to the requirements of the class 15 label. This label is positioned on right hip pocket (as worn) so that on the finished trousers the label shall face the wearer. The combination label shall be no larger than the pocket to which it is attached. The label shall be sewn on all four sides. The label colors shall be white with black lettering. The inscription legibility, label, and label attachment method shall last the expected life of the uniform.

3.8.2 Hang tag. The hang tag shall be placed through the top button, but not through the trouser.

The plastic hang tag holder will not break a stitch in the button sewing operation.

3.9 Seaming. Seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to the ASTM D-6193 stitch and seam types listed in Table III below. The backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance or raw edges to create irritation, discomfort or poor appearance. To maintain durability and functionality, the seams shall be sewn with 10-12 stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Thread ends shall be secured by a minimum of ¼” backstitched or ½” overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 – 10 stitches per inch. To maintain all durability and functionality, bartacks, except for the waistband, shall be 3/8 to 5/8 inch in length with approximately 27 stitches each. Bartacks are required at the specified reinforcement points (see Figures 1-4) and centered on belt loop for attachment. The buttonholes shall be eyelet end, tapered bar, with 7/8” inch cut opening and 52 – 56 stitches per inch.

1. Adjust waist size by straps on waistband.

2. Blouse trouser outside of boots.

3. For best results secure button and slide fastener closures, then turn garment inside out before washing.

4. Machine washing. Use Permanent Press Cycle. Wash in warm water and mild detergent.

5. Hand washing. Wash in warm water using mild detergent. DO NOT WRING OR TWIST. Rinse in clean warm water.

6. DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

7. Dry at low heat (Do not exceed 130°F). After drying, tumble at room temperature for 10 minutes. Remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on rust- proof hanger.

6. Do not commercially hot press. Light ironing if needed.

The buttonhole purling shall be between tab and flap plies, front facing and front plies, fly and front waist, and on the outside of the blouse and trousers. Material edges must not ravel. Raw edges may be turned-in, turned-under or serged to prevent raveling. No raw edges are allowed.

3.9.1 Alternate Seaming and Stitching The following seams shall be sewn with the alternate B/50 thread specified in paragraph 3.6.2.2; trouser inseams, seat seams, seat patch, knee patch, crotch intersection bartack, and fly opening bartack..

TABLE III Seam types

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type

Waistband LSbc-3 1 ½ inch 301 or 401

Top stitching for pocket flaps, flies, tabs, and front edges.

OSf-1

1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge (uniform throughout the garment)

Closing of side hanging and hip pockets leaving ½” chain

SSe-2 and OSf-1

Or SSa-2 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edges 301 or

515,516, or

Hip pocket Ssa or

SSbe-2

Hip pocket welt width ¼ - 3/8 inch 301

Attachment of patch pockets and attachment of side and hip pocket bearers and facings LSd-1 one row 1/16 to 1/8 inch apart 301

Double needle flap stitching 1/ LSd-2 two rows 3/16 to 1/4 inch apart 301

Belt loop construction 2/ EFad-2 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edges 301

Label attachment LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges 301

Hems:

trouser legs EFb-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 301

Outseams, inseams, seat seams LSc-2 3/16 to 9/32 inch gauge 301 to 401

1/ An alternate for all pocket flaps there shall be a single needle stitch attachment in accordance with the pattern then turned and topstitched 3/16” to ¼” with backtacking at each end. The top flap edge, raw or overedged, shall not be visible when the flap is raised.

2/ Except there shall be no reinforcement strip inserted.

3.10 The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns, which show directional line markings for proper assembly. The Government patterns are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. Minor adjustments are permitted to accommodate procedures however; the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

3.11 List of pattern parts. Standard patterns provide a seam allowance of ½ inch seam for outseam, inseam and seat seam, ¼ inch seam allowance for hip, cargo pocket flap and tabs and 3/8 seam allowance for all other seams.

TABLE IV List of pattern parts- First Quality

Material Nomenclature of Pattern Parts Pattern

Abbreviation Quantity to Cut

Basic Material Front FRONT 2 Back BACK 2 Side Hanging Pocket SIDE

HANGING

PKT

Side Hanging Pocket Bearer SIDE HANG

PKT BEARER

Side Hanging Pocket Facing SIDE HANG

PKT FAC

Left Fly LEFT FLY 1 Right fly RIGHT FLY 1 Knee Patch KNEE PATCH 2 Seat Patch SEAT PATCH 2 Hip Pocket HIP POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Facing HIP PKT FAC 2 Hip Pocket Bearer HIP PKT

BEARER

Hip Pocket Flap HIP PKT

FLAP

Waistband WAISTBAND 2 Belt Loop BELT LOOP 7 Cargo Pocket CARGO PKT 2 Cargo Pocket Flap CARGO FLAP 2 Fusible, Non- Woven

Hip Pocket Flap Fusible HIP PKT

FLAP FUS

Cargo Pocket Flap Fusible CARGO PKT

FLAP FUS

Left Fly Fusible LEFT FLY

FUS

3.11.1 Parts cut from seconds. Table V lists the pattern parts which may be cut from mill seconds (see 3.5).

TABLE V List of pattern parts that may be cut from seconds

Material Nomenclature of

Pattern Parts Pattern Abbreviation Quantity to Cut

Waistband Lining WAISTBAND 1 Side hanging pocket SIDE HANGING PKT 2 Hip pocket HIP POCKET 2

3.11.2 Configuration. The following specifications are needed to provide uniform appearance, comfort and durability in garrison use, combat, and operations other than war. End item trouser construction and appearance shall conform to the requirements of this document and the finished dimension tables (see 4.4.8) and figures 1–3 to maintain item configuration and compliance to component and end item tests (see 4.4).

3.11.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Minor modifications to patterns to accommodate automation or to the methods used to the finished dimensions are acceptable.

4.1 VERIFICATION

4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.3 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.5 Component and end item inspections. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Bond strength test. The interlining shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.1 when tested according to AATCC TM 136, paragraph 11. Laundering shall be in accordance with AATCC TM 135 Permanent Press Cycle, 120+/- 5F, Tumble Dry Low.

4.4.2 Breaking strength and elongation test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.1 and 3.6.2.2 when tested according to ASTM-D-2256, except testing speed shall be 12 ± 0.5 in./min and a 10 inch gauge shall be used.

4.4.3 Colorfastness test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.5 when tested according to AATCC TM 61, Test 3A (4 cycles).

4.4.4 Compressive strength test. The buttons shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.5 when tested for compressive strength using an apparatus that permits gradual application of the load either by a manual or automatic hydraulic mechanism. Buttons shall be placed face down one at a time between flat blocks of steel, and tested to failure. Failure is defined as the first sign of a crack in the button visible to the naked eye (a visible crack in the button will usually be found at the first audible sound of cracking).

4.4.5 Button pull test. The buttons attached to the trouser shall meet the requirements stated in

3.6.5 when tested according to ASTM D-5034, except slide the button between the two upper 1 inch wide grips such that it rests on top of those grips that are separated by at least 3/8 inch. Use manually adjusted grips, place the button attachment stitching in the center of bottom grips such they grab the material directly beneath the button stitching, not on the stitching itself.

4.4.6 Force versus elongation of elasticized features. Samples of the cargo pocket shall be taken from garments constructed to duplicate the configuration on the finished garment where the elastic webbing is set on or within the trouser fabric. The cargo pocket length (relaxed) is the finished opening length of six inches. Cargo pocket samples shall be laundered 5 times as per AATCC 135,3,V,iii and stitching which sets the elastic must stay secured through the washings.

Tensile properties are evaluated by conducting tensile tests utilizing equipment, which conform to ASTM D-76, Standard Specification of Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles. The specimens are clamped in pneumatic jaws in a relaxed state (no force on read out) where the jaws are spaced 4.0 inches apart.”

4.4.7 End item visual examination. The trouser shall be examined for defects listed below.

Table VI End Item Visual Examination

Examination Defect Description Component Part Component part of trouser omitted 3 Distorted, full, tight, or twisted; any part of trouser caught in any unrelated stitching

The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch

Material Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, exposed drill hole.

Slub, run, thin place, color/dye streak, spots and/or stains, knots, color not as specified, misweave 1/

Fabric used for trouser not as specified

Shade variation within a part or between parts 3

Stitching Seam: puckered 1 Distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular, fullness 2 Loose or tight stitch tension 3 Broken or missing thread or stitch 3 Repaired, needle chew, visible mend 2 Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge resulting in damage to cloth 3 Seam allowance not as specified 2 Visible raw edge effecting appearance or serviceability 3 Topstitching incorrect gage 2 Evenness Waistband uneven more than ¼ inch when buttoned 2 Inseam and/or outseam lengths vary by more than ½ inch from leg to leg 3 Bottom openings vary by more than ½ inch in half width 3 Evenness of length between inseam and outseam varies by more than ½” 2 Buttons & Buttonholes

Pocket flap and waistband buttons and buttonholes out of alignment causing bulge, twist or distortion when buttoned

Buttonholes omitted, added 2 Not clean or securely caught in fabric 2 Not specified type 3 Not specified location 2

Hems Trouser legs twisted, wavy, omitted or not as specified 3 Hem width of trousers less than 1/2” or more than 3/4". 1 Pockets & Flaps Pocket companions not uniform in size or shape 3 Out of alignment by more than ¼” 2 Pockets twisted, curled or puckered, not stitched or located as specified 2 Pocket flap not completely covering pocket opening, not positioned as specified

Pocket flaps not centered over pocket opening. Flap width extends pass finished pocket edge by more than 1/8” on each side

Cargo pocket elasticized opening less than 6-3/4 or more than 7- 1/2 inches in width

Forward bottom corner of flap not bartacked down 2 Bartack not positioned and stitched through both flap and pocket Side hanging pocket opening less than 6 inches or more than 7-1/2 inches

Pleats Trouser pleats omitted 3 Reversed, i.e. not facing outseam 2 Front panel pleats stitched down less than 2-3/4 or more than 3-1/4 inches from top of trousers

Elastic Trouser cargo pocket elastic does not expand/retract to relaxed condition as specified

Omitted 3 Twisted 2 Width not as specified 1 Not caught in bartack, bartack not length or position specified. 2 Setting distorts trouser leg 3 Color not black when exposed elastic used

Belt Loops Belt loops omitted 3 Insecure 2 Not specified size

Opening out of tolerance. (3/4 inches +/- 1/8” wide x 2 1/2 +/- 1/4 inches length opening)

Eyelets Omitted 2 Misplaced 3 Improper size 1 Caught in stitching 1

Bartacks/Backtacks Bartacks or backtacks missing 2 Insecure. 2 Misplaced 2 Not specified size 1 Stitches loose or broken 2 Bartack/backtack not serving intended purpose. 2 Patches Seat and knee patches omitted 3 Not attached as specified 3 Not positioned as specified in pattern 3

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified 3

Slide fastener Slide pull becomes detached or slider disengages from either row of scoops 3 Chain becomes unmeshed or does not mesh properly 3 Any required component missing or not properly assembled 3 Slider lock does not retain slider when pull is in down position on non-automatic lock, or when pull is released on automatic lock, when the open chain above the slider is lightly pulled apart

Slider binds, catches, or sticks at any point or does not function properly 2 Chain (scoops) installed upside down 3 Cut, tear or hole in slide fastener tape 3 Stitching too close to close to metal edge not permitting slider to pass freely 3 Tape set to loose or too tight causing bulge, twist, fullness in closed fly 3 Stop not securely clinched at bottom of chain 2 Slide fastener is not type or style specified 3 Packaging Any trouser not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order 2

Spot, stain, excessive thread not trimmed or removed

Cleanliness Odor, affecting appearance or serviceability

Shade Thread or button color not as specified

4.4.8 Finished dimensions. The trouser shall conform to the dimensions listed below.

TABLE VII Finished dimensions All measurements in inches

Table VII. Unisex Trouser – Finished Dimensions (inches)

SIZE X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-

LONG

TOL.

1/2 Waist 1/ X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large

-1/4 +1/2

Inseam: 2/ X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large

29-3/4 29-3/4 29-3/4 29-3/4

31-3/4

31-3/4 31-3/4

33-3/4

33-3/4 33-3/4

35-3/4

35-3/4 35-3/4 35-3/4

37-3/4 37-3/4 37-3/4 37-3/4

37-3/4

39-3/4 39-3/4 39-3/4 39-3/4

+ 3/4

Table VII. Unisex Trouser – Finished Dimensions (inches) Continued

SIZE X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-

LONG

TOL

Outseam: 3/ X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large

38-3/4 39-1/4 39-3/4 40-1/4

41-1/4 41-3/4 42-1/4 42-3/4 43-1/4

43-3/4 44-1/4 44-3/4 45-1/4 45-3/4

46-1/4 46-3/4 47-1/4 47-3/4 48-1/4 48-3/4 49-3/4

49-1/4 49-3/4 50-1/4 50 3/4

52-1/4

52-1/4 52-3/4 53-1/4 53-3/4

+ 3/4

Bottom: 4/ X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large

17-3/4 17-3/4

17-3/4 17-3/4 18-1/2

17-3/4 17-3/4 18-1/2

17-3/4 17-3/4 18-1/2 18-1/2

17-3/4 17-3/4 18-1/2

17-3/4 17-3/4 18-1/2 18-1/2-

+ 1/2

Method of measuring. The waistband and fly shall be buttoned and trousers placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

1/ Measure along center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Measure inseam of trousers from crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser leg.

3/ Measure from top edge of waist to bottom of leg along outseam.

4/ Measure across bottom of leg. Multiply by two.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point's packaging activity within the Military Department's System Command.

Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The trousers are for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Trouser Clothing Operational Dress Uniform (ODU)

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3