ODU SHIRT CG PD 15-01B 4_11_18.pdf

INCH-POUND

CG/PD 15-01B

April 11, 2018

SUPERCEDING

CG/PD 15-01A

June 27, 2017

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHIRT, OPERATIONAL DRESS UNIFORM, UNTUCKED (COAST GUARD)

This document is approved for use by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the US Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform

(ODU) shirt worn by US Coast Guard personnel.

1.2 Classification. The shirt will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2).

TABLE I. Schedule of sizes - Shirts

XX-SHORT X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-LONG

------ ------ 31 31 ------ ------ ------ ------- 32 32 32 32 ------ ------

------- ------ 33 33 33 ------- ------ 34 34 34 34 34 34 ------

------ ------- 35 35 35 ------- ------ 36 36 36 36 36 36 --------

------ ------- 37 37 37 ------- ------- 38 38 38 38 38 38 38

------- ------- 39 39 39 39 ------- 40 40 40 40 40 40 40

------- ------- 41 41 41 41 ------- ------- 42 42 42 42 42 42 ------- ------- 43 43 43 43 ------- ------- 44 44 44 44 44 44 ------- ------- ------- 45 45 45 ------- ------- ------- 46 46 46 46 ------- ------- ------- ------- 47 47 ------- -------

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the U.S Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.

TABLE I Schedule of sizes, cont.

XX-SHORT X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-LONG

------- ------- 48 48 48 48 ------- ------- ------- ------- 50 50 50 50 ------- ------- ------- 52 52 52 52 ------- ------- ------- 54 54 ------- ------- ------- ------- ------- ------- 56 ------- ------- ------- ------- ------- ------- 58 ------- ------- ------- ------- ------- ------- 60 ------- -------

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification.

This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch or www.dodssp.daps.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-9054. (see 6.2).

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4B – Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FED-STD-595B – Colors Used in Government Procurement

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION

A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 Thread, Poly Core Cotton Covered A-A-59826 Thread, Nylon

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch http://www.dodssp.daps.mil/

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles

FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS

V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, Hand Button, Staple (Plastic)

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

CDTO-PD-0501-CG Name/Service Tapes for US Coast Guard Operational Dress Uniform CG/PD 04-9407A Cloth, Wind Resistant Poplin, Nylon/Cotton Blend

(Copies of these documents are available from the U.S. Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. (See 6.2).

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D-2256 Tensile Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand Method ASTM D-5034 Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textiles (Grab Test) ASTM D-6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959 or from www.astm.org.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home laundering of Woven Fabric AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC 136 Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics

(Copies of these documents are available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Triangle Park NC 27709-2215 or from www.aatcc.org. Phone number (919) 549-8141.)

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of these documents are available the American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018-3308 or from www.ansi.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design and construction. The shirt is single-breasted design with a pointed collar, a semi-suppressed waist and straight cut bottom. The shirt shall have a concealed button front closure, two breast pockets with flaps horizontally aligned with each other, and there shall be no exposed drill holes.

There shall be two concealed pencil pocket openings. The left breast pocket has a concealed pencil pocket opening. The left placket has a pencil pocket opening and the ¾ “width shall be from the placket edge to the end of the top buttonhole and 6 inches in length. There shall be two different pocket sizes with an embroidered Coast Guard shield centered on the right breast pocket, see Figure 6 for sizes. The shirt has long sleeves with reinforced extended elbow patches and adjustable cuffs at wrist with three buttons in the sleeve hem wrist closure adjustment. When button placement falls on the sleeve seam, place button on side of seam closest to specified placement of button. (See Figure(s) 1 and 2).

3.4 Basic material. The basic material shall be a nylon/cotton ripstop dyed USCG Blue 3362, conforming to the requirements specified in CG/PD 04-9407A.

3.5 Seconds. Seconds are imperfect fabric containing flaws in the weave, finish, or dyeing. Examples of seconds are fabric containing a mispick or out of tolerance with regard to color/shade. Seconds cloth shall be dyed in conformance with the specified basic material and shall meet the physical, mechanical, and dimensional requirements of the respective finished fabric. (See 3.12.1).

3.5.1 Cloth, pencil pocket and left front fly. The cloth for pencil pocket and left front fly shall be basic material, and also may be made from seconds.

3.6 Components

3.6.1 Fusible interlining. The interlining shall be a fusible conforming to MIL-C-44296, Type V, VI or VII, style B or C substrate with class 1 (polyamide) or 3 (Polyethylene, high density) adhesive. The fusible shall meet the bonding strength and shrinkage requirements, initial and after 3 launderings as specified in MIL-C-44296 and in the end item as specified in the Care Label.

To improve the appearance of the garment, the collar and pocket flaps shall be interlined. The interlining shall have the same life expectancy as the shirt itself. After being bonded to the basic cloth, it shall meet an initial directional bond strength of 32 ounces per inch (min) and after 3 launderings, it shall meet a directional bond strength of 24 ounces per inch (min) when tested as specified in 4.4.1.

3.6.2 Thread, gimp, embroidery thread.

3.6.2.1 Thread. Thread for needle and bobbin (looper) shall be cotton or polyester-covered, polyester core, commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with a minimum breaking strength of 3.2 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. As an alternate, Ticket No. 70 (Tex size 31 to 35) with a breaking strength of 2.6 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2 may be used as the bobbin (looper) thread. The color shall be black. The thread shall be in accordance with A-A-50199.

3.6.2.2 Alternate Seam Thread. The needle thread for the alternate seams shall be Type II, Tex No. 45- 51 in accordance with A-A-59826. The bobbin (looper thread) for the alternate seams shall be commercial size Ticket No. 50 (Tex size 36 to 50) with minimum break strength of 3.2 lbs conforming to A-A-50199. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.3 Button Attachment Thread. All buttons shall be attached using Type II, Tex No. 45-51 in accordance with A-A-59826. The color shall be black.

3.6.2.4 Gimp. Thread for reinforcement of buttonholes shall be cotton, commercial size Ticket No. 8 (Tex size 210) with a minimum breaking strength of 6.5 pounds when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color shall be black. The thread shall be in accordance with A-A-50198.

3.6.2.5 Embroidery Thread. The thread shall be polyester (with abundant luster), bright, continuous filament embroidery thread conforming to American & Efrid, A&E 50064 Black, or equal. All thread shall show colorfastness to light, laundering, and wet-dry cleaning of not less than grade 4 when tested as specified in Table VI.

3.6.2.6 Colorfastness. All thread used shall be non-staining and show good colorfastness to laundering when tested as specified in 4.4.3.

3.6.3 Fastener tape (hook & loop). Fastener tape for the shirt shall be 1 inch by 1 inch square. Hook fastener tape shall conform to Velcro USA 126384 and loop fastener tape shall conform to Velcro USA 128592 or equal commercial tape. It shall not pick up lint after 5 home launderings when tested as specified in AATCC 135 using a high degree of cotton ballast. The color of the hook and loop shall be black. Sew two one inch squares of loop fastener tape on breast pocket flap, through pocket flap as per marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 inch from edges continuing on with an “X” stitched through the center of the square in one operation. The stitching must overlap three starting stitches at the end of the cycle. Sew two one inch squares of hook fastener tape on each breast pocket and pocket facings per marks on patterns. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 inch from edges continuing on with an “X” stitched through the center of the square in one operation. The stitching must overlap three starting stitches or back tack three stitches at the end of the cycle. Stitch type shall be 301, seam stitching type shall be LSbj-1, stitches per inch 10-14, thread needle shall be 50, and bobbin 50. See Figure 3.

3.6.4 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 26, 30 ligne of V-B-871. The buttons shall be a dull finish, 4-hole and shall be in accordance with the following button style:

The color of the button shall be a good match to Blue 3362. The buttons shall not exhibit chalking. The buttons shall show a minimum compressive strength of 1800 lb when tested as specified in 4.4.4. When attached to the shirt, the button and thread shall withstand a pull test of 40 lb. (min) when tested as specified in 4.4.5. See Figure 4.

3.7 Labels. The shirt shall contain three permanent labels as specified below. All permanent label inscription, legibility, label material, label attachment method shall last the expected life of the shirt.

3.7.1 USCG Unique Label. Each shirt shall have a woven unique label, cut single, fused edge, style Minnewawa LR9021; equal to or better (based on government approval). The information on the label includes “Made Expressly for” with the USCG emblem woven in the center of the label. Below the label, the contractor’s name shall appear in white Minnnewawa 1550 SD letters; equal to or better (based on government approval). The unique label shall be placed at center back of the collar and sewn in collar setting seam and stitched on all four sides ,with the size length designation label sewn on its top edge and hanging freely to the center of the bottom edge of the Unique Label, see Figure 5.

3.7.2 Shirt Combination Label. A separate combination label shall contain identification, size-length designation, body measurements, stock number, fiber content (50 % Nylon / 50% Cotton), contractor’s name and care/instruction information as specified. The label colors shall be white with black lettering.

The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 10 points. The combination label shall be located on the backside of the right chest pocket (as worn). Label shall be attached by stitching on all four sides with no indication of label application showing on the outside of the blouse.

3.7.2.1 Care/Instruction Label information. The care/instruction label for the shirts shall conform to class 3 and contain the following information:

1. Wear outside of trousers.

2. Adjust closures to ventilate and avoid overheating of body.

3. For best results secure fastener tape closures, then turn garment inside out before washing.

4. Machine washing. Use Permanent Press Cycle. Wash in warm water and mild detergent.

5. Hand washing. Wash in warm water using mild detergent. DO NOT WRING OR TWIST. Rinse in clean warm water.

6. DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR STARCH.

7. Dry at low heat (Do not exceed 130°F). After drying, tumble at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Remove immediately from dryer. To drip dry, remove from water and place on rust-proof hanger.

8. Do not commercially hot press. Light ironing if needed.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.7.3 Size Label. The shirt's size-length shall be on a separate label. Information for each size is specified in Table II. Size Measurements is centered on the label. The label shall be 3/4" to 1" in width, 3/4" to 1" in height. It shall be sewn to the bottom of the USCG Unique label with a 1/4 inch seam allowance as shown in Figure 5. The lettering shall be 10 point Arial font. The label shall be white with black numbers and lettering.”

TABLE II. Size Measurements

ODD SIZES

Size: 31 Short Size: 33 Short Chest: 30-31 in. Chest: 32-33 in.

Height: Under 63.5 in. Height: Under 63.5 in.

Size: 35 Short Size: 37 Short Size: 39 Short Chest: 34-35 in. Chest: 36-37 in. Chest: 38-39 in.

Height: Under 63.5 in. Height: Under 63.5 in. Height: Under 63.5 in.

Size: 41 Short Size: 43 Short Size: 31 Regular Chest: 40- 41 in. Chest: 42-43 in. Chest: 30-31 in.

Height: Under 63.5 in. Height: Under 63.5 in. Height: 64-68 in.

Size: 33 Regular Size: 35 Regular Chest: 32-33 in. Chest: 34-35 in.

Height: 64-68 in. Height: 64-68 in.

Size: 37 Regular Size: 39 Regular Size: 41 Regular Chest: 36-37 in. Chest: 38-39 in. Chest: 40-41 in.

Height: 64-68 in. Height: 64-68 in. Height: 64-68 in.

Size: 43 Regular Size: 45 Regular Size: 47 Regular Chest: 42-43 in. Chest: 44-45 in. Chest: 46-47 in.

Height: 64-68 in. Height: 64-68 in. height: 64-68 in.

Size: 33 Long Chest: 32-33 in.

Height: 68.5-70 in.

Size: 35 Long Size: 37 Long Size: 39 Long Chest: 34-35 in. Chest: 36-37 in. Chest: 38-39 in.

Height: 68.5-70 in. Height: 68.5-70 in. Height: 68.5-70 in.

Size: 41 Long Size: 43 Long Size: 45 Long Chest: 40-41 in. Chest: 42-43 in. Chest: 44-45 in.

Height: 68.5-70 in. Height: 68.5-70 in. Height: 68.5-70 in.

Size: 47 Long Size: 39 X-Long Size: 41 X-Long Chest: 46-47 in. Chest: 38-39 in. Chest: 40-41 in.

Height: 68.5-70 in. Height: Over 70.5 Height: Over 70.5

Size: 43 X-Long Size: 45 X-Long Chest: 42-43 in. Chest: 44-45 in.

Height: Over 70.5 Height: Over 70.5

EVEN SIZES

Size: 32 X-Short Size: 32 Short Size: 32 Regular Chest: 32 in. Chest: 32 in. Chest: 32 in.

Height: 61-63 in. Height: 64-66 in. Height: 67-70 in.

Size: 32 Long Size: 34 XX-Short Size: 34 X-Short Chest: 32 in. Chest: 34 in. Chest: 34 in.

Height: 71-73 in. Height: 55-60 in. Height: 61-63 in.

Size: 34 Short Size: 34 Regular Size: 34 Long Chest: 34 in. Chest: 34 in. Chest: 34 in.

Height: 64-66 in. Height: 67-70 in. Height: 71-73 in.

Size: 34 X-Long Size: 36 XX-Short Size: 36 X-Short Chest: 34 in. Chest: 36 in. Chest: 36 in.

Height: 74-76 in. Height: 55-60 in. Height: 61-63 in.

Size: 36 Short Size: 36 Regular Size: 36 Long Chest: 36 in. Chest: 36 in. Chest: 36 in.

Size: 36 X-Long Size: 38 XX-Short Size: 38 X-Short Chest: 36 in. Chest: 38 in. Chest: 38 in.

Height: 74-76 in. Height: 55-60 in. Height: 61-63 in.

Size: 38 Short Size: 38 Regular Size: 38 Long Chest: 38in. Chest: 38 in. Chest: 38 in.

Size : 38 X-Long Size: 38 XX-Long Size: 40 XX-Short Chest: 38 in. Chest: 38 in. Chest: 40 in.

Height: 74-76 in. Height: 77-80 in. Height: 55-60 in.

Size: 40 X-Short Size: 40 Short Size: 40 Regular Chest: 40 in. Chest: 40 in. Chest: 40 in.

Size: 40 Long Size 40 - X-Long Size: 40 XX-Long Chest: 40 in. Chest: 40 in. Chest: 40 in.

Height: 71-73 in. Height: 74-76 in. Height: 77-80 in.

Size: 42 X-Short Size: 42 Short Size: 42 Regular Chest: 42 in. Chest: 42 in. Chest: 42 in.

Size: 42 Long Size: 42 X-Long Size: 42 XX-Long Chest: 42 in. Chest: 42 in. Chest: 42 in.

Size: 44 X-Short Size: 44 Short Size: 44 Regular Chest: 44 in. Chest: 44 in. Chest: 44 in.

Height: 61-65 in. Height: 64-66 in. Height: 67-70 in.

Size: 44 Long Size: 44 X-Long Size: 44 XX-Long Chest: 44 in. Chest: 44 in. Chest: 44 in.

Size: 46 Short Size: 46 Regular Size: 46 Long Chest: 46 in. Chest: 46 in. Chest: 46 in.

Size: 46 X-Long Size: 48 Short Size: 48 Regular Size: 48 Long Chest: 46 in. Chest: 48 in. Chest: 48 in. Chest: 48 in.

Height: 74-76 in. Height: 64-66 in. Height: 67-70 in. Height: 71-73 in.

Size: 48 X-Long Size: 50 Regular Size: 50 Long Size:50 X-Long Chest: 48 in. Chest: 50 in. Chest: 50 in. Chest: 50 in.

Height: 74-76 in. Height: 67-70 in. Height: 71-73 in. Height: 74-76 in.

Size: 50 XX-Long Size: 52 Regular Size :52 Long Size: 52 X-Long Chest: 50 in. Chest: 52 in. Chest: 52 in. Chest: 52 in.

Height: 77-80 in. Height: 67-70 in. Height: 71-73 in. Height: 74-76 in.

Size: 52 XX-Long Size: 54 Regular Size :54 Long Size: 56 Long Chest: 52 in. Chest: 54 in. Chest: 54 in. Chest: 56 in.

Height: 77-80 in. Height: 67-70 in. Height: 71-73 in. Height: 71-73 in.

Size: 58 Long Size: 60 Long Chest: 58 in. Chest: 60 in.

Height: 71-73 in. Height: 71-73 in.

3.7.4 Hang tag. The hang tag shall be placed through the top button, but not through the shirt. The plastic hang tag holder will not break a stitch in the button sewing operation.

3.8 Embroidery Files. The Coast Guard shall furnish embroidery files to manufacturer the Coast Guard shield. The embroidery threads shall be as described in 3.6.2.5. The dimensions and placement of the Coast Guard shield shall be in accordance with Figure 6.

3.9 Seaming. Seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D-6193 stitch and seam types listed in Table III. The backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance or raw edges to create irritation, discomfort or poor appearance. To maintain durability and functionality, the seams shall be sewn with 10-12 stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Thread ends shall be secured by a minimum of ¼” backstitched or ½” overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 8 - 10 stitches per inch. To maintain durability and functionality, bartacks 3/8 (+/- 1/16) to 5/8 (+/- 1/16) inch in length with approximately 27 stitches are required at the specified reinforcement points. Buttonholes shall be eyelet end, tapered bar, 7/8 inch length with 52 - 56 stitches per inch. The buttonhole purling shall be between tab and flap plies and front facing and front plies, or on the outside of the shirt. All material edges shall be clean finished:

edges shall be either turned-in, turned-under, or serged. (See Figures 1-4)

3.10. Alternate Seaming and Stitching. The following seams shall be sewn with alternate B/50 thread specified in 3.6.2.2; set in sleeves, side seam, set elbow patch, and bartacks.

TABLE III. Seam & Stitch types

Seam Placement Seam type Gage Stitch

Type Side seams, back arm seams, set in sleeves, shoulder seams

LSc-2 3/16 to 9/32 inch gage 301 or 401

Top Stitching of pocket flaps, collar, left front fly, cuff tab, front edges

OSf-1 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge

Top Stitching of pockets and top of pocket flaps (from end to end)

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge

Attachment of pockets LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge

Attachment of patches and flaps LSd-1 or LSd-2 two rows 3/16 to1/4 inch apart

Bottom hemming - Shirt Efb-1 5/8 + 1/8 inch wide hem 301 Attachment of flaps LSbk-3 3/16 inch setting with 1/4 inch gage topstitching or 1/16 inch with 1/4 inch gage

Setting cuff LSd-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge

Setting collar Ssa-1 or Lsb-1

1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge

The Government shall furnish a complete set of patterns, which show directional line markings for proper assembly. The Government patterns are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns.

Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate procedures however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained.

3.12 List of pattern parts. Standard patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for double needle seams and 3/8 inch for single needle seams. Buttonholes, pockets and pocket flaps shall be located in accordance with marks on patterns. The pattern list in Table IV is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete.

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts- First Quality

Material Nomenclature of Pattern Parts

Abbreviation Quantity to Cut

Basic Material Back BACK 1 Front FRONT 2 Top Sleeve TOP_SLEEVE 2 Under Sleeve UND_SLEEVE 2 Collar COLLAR 2 Left Front Fly LFT_FRT_FLY 1 Cuff CUFF 2 Elbow Patch ELBOW_PATCH 2 Cuff Tab CUFF_TAB 2 Pen Pocket PEN_POCKET 1 Breast Pocket BRST_POCKET 2 Breast Pocket Flap BRS_PKT_FLP 2

Fusible, Non-Woven Collar Interfacing Collar_Int 1 Breast Pocket Flap

Interfacing BR_PK_FL_Int 2

3.12.1 Parts cut from seconds. Table V lists the pattern parts which may be cut from seconds (see 3.5).

TABLE V List of pattern parts that may be cut from seconds.

Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature PENCIL PCKT Pencil pocket LFT-FRT-FLY Left Front Fly

3.12.2 Configuration. The following specifics are needed to provide uniform appearance, comfort, and durability in garrison use, combat, and operations other than war. End item garment construction and appearance shall conform to figures l through 6 and the finished dimensions (see 4.4.8) to maintain configuration and compliance to end item performance tests (see 4.4).

3.12.3 Use of automated apparel equipment. Minor modifications to patterns to accommodate automation or to the methods used to the finished dimensions are acceptable.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Bond strength test. The interlining shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.1 when tested according to AATCC TM 136, paragraph 11. Laundering shall be in accordance with AATCC TM 135 Permanent Press Cycle, 120+/- 5F, Tumble Dry Low.

4.4.2 Breaking strength and elongation test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in

3.6.2.1 and 3.6.2.4 when tested according to ASTM D-2256.

4.4.3 Colorfastness test. The thread and gimp shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.2.6 when tested according to AATCC TM 61, Test 3A (3 cycles).

4.4.4 Compressive strength test. The buttons shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.4 when tested for compressive strength using an apparatus which permits gradual application of the load either by a manual or automatic hydraulic mechanism. Buttons shall be placed face down one at a time between flat blocks of steel, and tested to failure. Failure is defined as the first sign of a crack in the button visible to the naked eye (a visible crack in the button will usually be found at the first audible sound of cracking).

4.4.5 Button pull test. The buttons attached to the shirt shall meet the requirements stated in 3.6.4 when tested according to ASTM D-5034, except slide the button between the two upper 1 inch grips such that it rests on top of those grips that are separated by at least 3/8 inch. Using manually adjusted grips, place the button attachment stitching in the center of the bottom grips then lower the bottom grips such that they grab the basic material directly beneath the button stitching, not on the stitching itself.

4.4.6 Embroidery Thread Testing. The embroidery shall meet the requirements specified in Table VI.

TABLE VI.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method Colorfastness:

Light (40 SFH) 3.6.2.5 AATCC-16 Opt 1 or 3 Laundering (after 3 cycles) 3.6.2.5 AATCC-61 test 2A Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.6.2.5 AATCC-132

4.4.7 End item visual examination. The shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VII.

TABLE VII. End item visual defects

EXAMINATION DEFECT Point

Value

Component Part

Component part omitted 3

Broken, distorted, full, tight, or twisted; any part of shirt caught in any unrelated stitching

The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch

Material

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole

Run, thin place, dye streak, color not as specified, misweave, knot or slub, spots/stains

Shade variation within a part or between parts

Fabric not as specified

Stitching

Seam: puckered 1

Distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular, open 2

Loose or tight stitch tension, 3 Broken or missing thread or stitch 3 Repaired, needle chew, visible mend 2 Edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to cloth, 3

Seam allowance not as specified 2

Visible raw edge affecting appearance or serviceability 3

Topstitching incorrect gage and not meeting from beginning to end 2

Value

Pockets & Flaps

Front pockets and flaps not uniform in size or shape 3

Out of alignment by more than 1/8 inch

Front edge not parallel to front of shirt by ¼ inch or more

Pleated, twisted, curled or puckered, not stitched as specified

Flap not completely covering pocket opening

Hook and loop out of alignment causing bulge or twist on pockets when fastened 2

Buttons & Buttonholes

Buttonholes omitted, added 2 Not clean cut or securely caught in fabric 2

Not specified type 2 Buttons missing, broken, defective 2 Not attached as specified/misaligned 3 Insecurely sewn 2

Bartacks

Bartacks missing 2

Insecure 2 Misplaced 2

Not specified size 1

Stitches loose or broken 2 Not serving intended purpose 2

Hook & Loop Fastener tape missing, defective 3 Incorrect style or color 2 Not attached or sewn as specified 1

Sleeves & Cuffs

Sleeve reversed 3 Sleeve puckered or pleated 2

Cuffs reversed 3

Cuff uneven in width more than 1/4 inch 2

Cuff poorly shaped 2

Cuff cuff buttonhole and first sleeve button not aligned, causing bulge or twist on cuff when buttoned

Value

Embroidered Logo

Omitted

Misplaced stitching, improperly sized, not specified color, puckered, deformed, loose threads, missed stitches, any deviation from Coast Guard embroidery file, poor registration, stitching incomplete, broken or skipped stitches, incomplete coverage of background material, bunched or tangled threads, loose or tight tension affecting appearance, stitches out of alignment affecting appearance, minimum number of stitches not met. Overall measurements out of tolerance

Evenness

Length of shirt fronts uneven by more than ¼ inch at top or bottom when buttoned

Shirt collar front points vary by more than 1/4 inch, collar curls, puckers, pleats, or twists

Sleeve lengths vary by more than ½ inch. 3 Cuff and cuff tab out of alignment with bottom folded edge of sleeve hem by more than 1/8 inch

Shade Thread or button color not as specified 3

Cleanness Spot, stain, excessive thread ends not trimmed or removed 2 Odor, affecting appearance or serviceability 3

Hems Hem width of shirt bottom less than 5/8” (+/- 1/8”) 1 Sleeve hem with less than 2-3/8” or more the 2-5/8” 1

Labels Omitted, incorrect, illegible, not attached where specified 3

Packaging Any shirts not packaged in accordance with contract or purchase order 2

4.4.8 Finished dimensions. The shirt shall conform to the dimensions listed below:

TABLE VIII. Finished dimensions All measurements in inches.

EVEN SIZES

XX-SHORT

34 36 38 40

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 21 22 23 24

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in. 19-

3/8 20- 3/8

21- 3/8

22- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in. 21-

1/2 22- 1/2

23- 1/2

24- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in. 15-

7/8 16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 30-

1/2 30- 1/2 31 31

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in. 26-

3/4 27 27 1/4

1/2

X-SHORT

32 34 36 38 40 42 44

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 20 21 22 23 24 25 26

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

18- 3/8

19- 3/8

20- 3/8

21- 3/8

22- 3/8

23- 3/8

24- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

20- 1/2

21- 1/2

22- 1/2

23- 1/2

24- 1/2

25- 1/2

26- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

16- 7/8

17- 1/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 31 31-

1/2 31- 1/2 32 32 32-

1/2 32- 1/2

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in.

1/2

3/4 28 28

1/4 1/2

3/4 29

SHORT

32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

18- 3/8

19- 3/8

20- 3/8

21- 3/8

22- 3/8

23- 3/8

24- 3/8

25- 3/8

26- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

20- 1/2

21- 1/2

22- 1/2

23- 1/2

24- 1/2

25- 1/2

26- 1/2

27- 1/2

28- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

16- 7/8

17- 1/8

17- 3/8

17- 5/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 32 32-

1/2 32- 1/2 33 33 33-

1/2 33- 1/2 34 34

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in.

1/2

3/4 29 29

1/4 1/2

3/4 30 30

1/4 1/2

REGULAR

32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

18- 3/8

19- 3/8

20- 3/8

21- 3/8

22- 3/8

23- 3/8

24- 3/8

25- 3/8

26- 3/8

27- 3/8

28- 3/8

29- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

20- 1/2

21- 1/2

22- 1/2

23- 1/2

24- 1/2

25- 1/2

26- 1/2

27- 1/2

28- 1/2

29- 1/2

30- 1/2

31- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

16- 7/8

17- 1/8

17- 3/8

17- 5/8

17- 7/8

18- 1/8

18- 3/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in.

33- 1/2 34 34 34-

1/2 34- 1/2 35 35 35-

1/2 35- 1/2 36 36 36-

1/2

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in. 30 30

1/4 1/2

3/4 31 31

1/4 1/2

3/4 32 32

1/4 1/2

3/4

LONG

32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

18- 3/8

19- 3/8

20- 3/8

21- 3/8

22- 3/8

23- 3/8

24- 3/8

25- 3/8

26- 3/8

27- 3/8

28- 3/8

29- 3/8

30- 3/8

31- 3/8

32- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

20- 1/2

21- 1/2

22- 1/2

23- 1/2

24- 1/2

25- 1/2

26- 1/2

27- 1/2

28- 1/2

29- 1/2

30- 1/2

31- 1/2

32- 1/2

33- 1/2

34- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

16- 7/8

17- 1/8

17- 3/8

17- 5/8

17- 7/8

18- 1/8

18- 3/8

18- 5/8

18- 7/8

19- 1/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in.

34- 1/2 35 35 35-

1/2 35- 1/2 36 36 36-

1/2 36- 1/2 37 37 37-

1/2 37- 1/2 38 38

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in.

1/2

3/4 32 32

1/4 1/2

3/4 33 33

1/4 1/2

3/4 34 34

1/4 1/2

3/4 35

X-LONG

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in. 19-

3/8 20- 3/8

21- 3/8

22- 3/8

23- 3/8

24- 3/8

25- 3/8

26- 3/8

27- 3/8

28- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in. 21-

1/2 22- 1/2

23- 1/2

24- 1/2

25- 1/2

26- 1/2

27- 1/2

28- 1/2

29- 1/2

30- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in. 15-

7/8 16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

16- 7/8

17- 1/8

17- 3/8

17- 5/8

17- 7/8

18- 1/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 36 36 36-

1/2 36- 1/2 37 37 37-

1/2 37- 1/2 38 38

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in. 33

1/4 1/2

3/4 34 34

1/4 1/2

34- 3/4 35 35-

1/4 35- 1/2

XX-LONG

38 40 42 44 50 52

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 23 24 25 26 29 30

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in. 21-

3/8 22- 3/8

23- 3/8

24- 3/8 27-

3/8 28- 3/8

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in. 23-

1/2 24- 1/2

25- 1/2

26- 1/2 29-

1/2 30- 1/2

CUFF

+ 3/8 in. 16-

3/8 16- 5/8

16- 7/8

17- 1/8 17-

7/8 18- 1/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 37-

1/2 37- 1/2 38 38 39 39

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in. 35

1/4 1/2

3/4 36 36

3/4 37

ODD SIZES

SHORT

31 33 35 37 39 41 43

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

17- 3/4

18- 3/4

19- 3/4

20- 3/4

21- 3/4

22- 3/4

23- 3/4

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

20- 5/8

21- 5/8

22- 5/8

23- 5/8

24- 5/8

25- 5/8

26- 5/8

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

14- 5/8

14- 7/8

15- 1/8

15- 3/8

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 29 29 29 29 29 29 29

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in.

1/4

1/2

3/4 27 27

1/4 1/2

3/4

REGULAR

31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in.

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

17- 3/4

18- 3/4

19- 3/4

20- 3/4

21- 3/4

22- 3/4

23- 3/4

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

20- 5/8

21- 5/8

22- 5/8

23- 5/8

24- 5/8

25- 5/8

26- 5/8

27- 5/8

28- 5/8

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

14- 5/8

14- 7/8

15- 1/8

15- 3/8

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in.

31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31

BODY

LENGTH

+ ½ in.

1/4

1/2

3/4 28 28

1/4 1/2

3/4 29 29

1/4

LONG

33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in.

18- 3/4

19- 3/4

20- 3/4

21- 3/4

22- 3/4

23- 3/4

24- 3/4

25- 3/4

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in.

21- 5/8

22- 5/8

23- 5/8

24- 5/8

25- 5/8

26- 5/8

27- 5/8

28- 5/8

CUFF

+ 3/8 in.

14- 7/8

15- 1/8

15- 3/8

15- 5/8

15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

16- 5/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in.

28- 1/2

3/4 29 29

1/4 1/2

3/4 30 30

1/4

X-LONG

39 41 43 45

HALF CHEST

+ 3/8 in. 23 24 25 26

HALF WAIST

+ 3/8 in. 21-

3/4 22- 3/4

23- 3/4

24- 3/4

HALF SEAT

+ 3/8 in. 24-

5/8 25- 5/8

26- 5/8

27- 5/8

CUFF

+ 3/8 in. 15-

5/8 15- 7/8

16- 1/8

16- 3/8

SLV. LENGTH

+ ½ in. 35 35 35 35

BODY LENGTH

+ ½ in. 30

1/4 1/2

3/4 31

TABLE IX. Collar & pocket measurements All measurements in inches.

Finished Part All sizes

Tolerance

Collar 2-3/4

+ 1/8

Pockets 37 and below: 4-3/4 wide/6-3/4 long

38 and up: 5-1/4 wide/6-

3/4 long

+ 1/8

Flaps 37 and below: 2 wide / 5 1/4 long

38 and up: 2 wide / 5-3/4 long

+ 1/8

Shirt Hem 5/8 (+/-1/8) Sleeve Hem Less than 2-3/8 or more than 2-5/8

METHOD OF MEASURING - The shirt shall be placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

Half Chest - With shirt buttoned, measure from folded edge to folded edge across chest in line with pit of armhole.

Half Waist - With shirt buttoned, measure from folded edge to folded edge across shirt at narrowest depression.

Half Seat - With shirt buttoned, measure from folded edge to folded edge across shirt bottom hem.

Cuff - With sleeve laid flat, measure from folded edge to folded edge doubled.

Sleeve Length - Measure from center of back at undercollar setting seam, across shoulders and down sleeves to bottom edge of cuff.

Body length - Measure from center of back from undercollar setting seam to bottom edge of shirt.

Collar Width – Measure along the center back of the collar at seam to top of collar.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). When actual packaging of material is to be performed by DoD personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain requisite packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point's packaging activity within the Military Department's System Command. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department's or Defense Agency's automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The shirts are for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Shirt Clothing Operational Dress Uniform (ODU)

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

Figure 1

Figure 2. Sleeve and cuff construction

Figure 3

*Distance from top button to first button (in inches) Tol (+/- 1/8 inch)

Size Distance (inches)

29 4-3/4 31 4-7/8

32/33 5 34/35 5-1/4 36/37 5-1/2 38/39 5-5/8 40/41 5-3/4 42/43 6 44/45 6-1/4 46/47 6-3/8 48/49 6-1/2

50 6-3/4 52 7 54 7-1/8 56 7-1/4 58 7-1/2 60 7-3/4

Figure 4

Shirt Label/Size Label; Tolerance (+/-1/8”)

Figure 5

Sizes 38 and up Sizes 37 and below

MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES

TOLERANCE:

POCKET ± 1/8 INCH

EMBROIDERY ± 1/16 INCH

Figure 6.