NCTRF-PD-87037C - Man Jumper White.pdf

NCTRF PD-87037C

CAGE Code 32263 22 March 2024

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD-87037B

8 April 2016

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JUMPER, MAN’S, WHITE

This purchase description is approved for use by Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy and the Defense Logistics Agency, Troop Support, Clothing and Textiles Directorate.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for a man’s 100% polyester service dress white jumper.

1.2 Classification. The jumper is of one type and is available in following sizes and lengths.

1.2.1 Sizes. 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52.

1.2.2 Lengths. Extra-Short (XS), Short (S), Regular (R), Long (L), Extra-Long (XL) and Extra- Extra- Long (XXL).

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to procuring activity, see 6.3.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERICAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50128 - Cloth, Interlining, Nonwoven A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core or Polyester-Covered A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-55634 - Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-B-17142 - Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

NCTRF PD-87052 - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, White

DRAWINGS

01-NCTRF-15 - Crowtack Stitch Enlargement

EMBROIDERY FILE

Embroidered Star.DST - Collar Flap Star

BUTTON CARD

Navy Button Shades Reference Card

(Copies of these documents are available from the procuring activity, see 6.3.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP2 - Gray Scale for Staining AATCC TM15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.3 - Colorfastness to Light Xenon AATCC TM61 - Colorfastness to Laundering AATCC TM132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 - Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D276 - Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fiber in Textiles ASTM D1907/D1907M - Standard Test Methods for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the

Skein Method ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample of the man’s jumpers shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic material. The material for the jumper shall be a polyester twill cloth, shade White 3006, conforming to NCTRF PD-87052, Class 1.

https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3.2.2 Cloth, interlining. The material for interlining of the cuffs shall be polyester conforming to Type I of A-A-50128.

3.2.3 Tape.

3.2.3.1 Tape, collar and cuff. The tape for the trim on the collar and cuffs shall be black, 1/4 (± 1/32) inch, conforming to Type I, Class 4 of A-A-52071 (see 6.5). The black tape shall not stain the basic material. The tape shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum Grade 5 rating when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.2.3.2 Tape, hanger loops. The tape for the hanger loops shall be white, 1/2-inch, conforming to Type II, Class 2 of A-A-52071 (see 6.5).

3.2.4 Thread. Requirements for thread size, ticket numbers, and ply are specified in 3.6.2.1.

3.2.4.1 Thread, cotton-covered, polyester core. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be cotton covered polyester core conforming to Type I of A-A-50199. Polyester-covered polyester core thread shall not be used.

3.2.4.1.1 Thread, white. The color shall be a good match to the basic material (3.2.1) for:

- all seaming of the jumper

- collar and cuff tape attachment - bobbin thread

- zig zag stitching at V-neck

- crowtacks

- when forming outside chest welt using stitch type 101 with an automatic pocket machine, and when stitch type 301 is used for the same operation

3.2.4.1.2 Thread, black. The black thread shall not stain the basic material. The thread shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum Grade 5 rating when tested as specified in 4.4.2. The color shall be a good match for:

- collar and cuff tape attachment - needle thread (3.2.3.1)

- bobbin thread for star embroidery

3.2.4.2 Thread, cotton alternate. As an alternate to the thread specified in 3.2.4.1, cotton thread may be used conforming to Type I of A-A-52094.

3.2.4.3 Thread, monofilament, alternate. As an alternate to the thread specified in 3.2.4.1 and 3.2.4.2, a continuous monofilament transparent or black translucent thread may be used in stitching on the black collar and cuff tape only. The monofilament thread shall be TEX 18 or 19.

3.2.4.4 Embroidery yarn for star. The yarn for the embroidered stars shall be bright trilobal, continuous filament, 2-ply polyester. The color shall be black. The black embroidery yarn shall not stain the basic material. The yarn shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum Grade 5 rating when tested as specified in 4.4.2.

3.2.4.5 Thread, gimp, cotton. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall have soft or glazed finish, Tex size 180-210 conforming to A-A-50198. The color shall be white.

3.2.5 Buttons. The plastic insignia sewing-hole-type buttons shall be 25-ligne, anchor emblem, Navy Shade Black 400 in accordance with the Navy Button Shades Reference Card, and shall conform to Type I, Class 1 of MIL-B-17143.

3.2.6 Slide fastener. The plastic slide fastener shall conform to Type I, Class 1, Style 5, Size 3-4, pin lock, short tab pull in accordance with A-A-55634 (see 6.4). As an alternate, a continuous chain and slider may be utilized to the preassembled slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be on the wearer’s left side. All component parts shall be from the same manufacturer. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be white. Slide fastener lengths shall be as specified in Table I.

TABLE I. Slide fastener lengths (inches).

Sizes X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long 30-52 10 10 12 14 14 16 Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2

3.2.7 Labels.

3.2.7.1 Combination label. Each jumper shall have a combination personal/identification/ instruction label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL- 32075. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from its edge and shall not go through the printing. The color of the label shall be white. The label shall bear the inscription below. The lot number shall be stamped on the label with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK.

NAME: ______________________________

JUMPER, MAN’S, WHITE

FIBER CONTENT: 100% Polyester CONTRACT NO: SPE1C1-00-0-0000 (example)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (if different than contractor):

LOT NUMBER: _______________________

CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS:

MACHINE WASH, WARM WATER (120°F MAX),

PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE DO NOT

MIX COLORS

DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT- REMOVE IMMEDIATELY TOUCH

UP WITH WARM IRON, IF NEEDED

MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED

or

FOLLOW SHIPBOARD WASH FORMULA I

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.2.7.1.1 Alternate label. As an alternate, the size label (3.2.7.2) and combination label (3.2.7.1) may be combined.

3.2.7.2 Size label. Each jumper shall have a size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL- DTL- 32075. The label shall also reflect the body length designation adjacent to the size designation.

Abbreviation for the applicable length shall be XS for Extra Short, S for Short, R for Regular, L for Long, XL for Extra Long and XXL for Extra-Extra Long. The inscription shall be as stated below:

Example

3.2.7.3 Removable size ticket. Each jumper shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the lower right sleeve. The ticket shall be 1-1/2 (± 1/32) inches long and 2 (± 1/32) inches high and made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double-perforated for ease in tacking the size (38R – Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering size shall be 1/4 (± 1/32) inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be in accordance with 3.2.7.2.

34L

8405-00-000-0000

3.2.7.4 Bar code label. Each jumper shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The label shall conform to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The barcode element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath the code. The barcodes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density. The paper tag(s) shall be located on the hanger loop on the left side of jumper so that they are completely visible on the jumper when it is folded and/or packaged as specified. The ink on the tag shall not rub off, smear or cause a spot or stain on the jumper.

3.3 Design. The jumper shall have a “V” neck opening with zigzag stitching along opening at bottom and shall have a crowtack below “V” neck opening. The jumper shall be a pull-over style with a covered left side slide fastener opening, front and back with superimposed yoke, square sailor collar, and one-piece sleeves having one-piece cuffs each with two buttons. Jumper shall have two double welt pockets on the outside through left and right front yoke with crowtacks at ends of pocket openings. The collar and cuffs shall be trimmed with three rows of tape. The collar shall have two embroidered black stars, one on each lower corner. See Figures 1 through 10.

3.4 Figures. The jumper shall conform to the requirements specified in Figures 1, 2, 3, 8, 9, and 10.

Figures 4 through 7 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and Figures 4 through 7, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns, to be used to cut working patterns, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2 and 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are permitted on the working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the document or those governed by the pattern. The standard patterns have a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for sleeve, armhole, and side seams, 3/8-inch seam allowance for shoulders, yokes, and collar at neck joining seams, and 1/4-inch seam allowance for joining outer edges of collar and sleeves to cuffs. Unless otherwise indicated in Table IV, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the jumper shall be cut from the materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process as specified in Table II.

TABLE II. Pattern parts.

MATERIAL AND PATTERN PART

NOMENCLATURE

COMPUTER NOMENCLATURE NUMBER OF

CUT PARTS

Basic Material (3.2.1) Front PD87037-FRONT 1 Front yoke PD87037-FRONT YOKE 1 Back PD87037-BACK 1 Back Yoke PD87037-BACK YOKE 1 Sleeve PD87037-SLEEVE 2 Top collar PD87037-TOP COLLAR 1 Under collar PD87037-UNDER COLLAR 1 Chest pocket PD87037-CHEST POCKET 2 Chest pocket welt PD87037-CHST PK WELT 2 Cuff PD87037-CUFF 2 Interlining (3.2.2) Cuff interlining PD87037-CUFF INTRLNG 2 Templates Buttonhole template PD87037-BTNHL TMP -

3.6.2 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, anyone may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching. Where stitch type 401 or 101 is used, the loops of the chain shall be on the inside of the jumper. Unless otherwise specified in Table IV, edge stitching shall be 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch from the edge. During the overedge operations, a knife shall be used for trimming off loose thread ends. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable provided the basting thread shall not show on the outside of finished jumper.

3.6.2.1 Bartacks. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8-inch to 1/2-inch long and width shall be 1/8 (± 1/32) inch.

3.6.2.2 Crowtacks. Crowtacks shall be constructed in accordance with Drawing Number

01-NCTRF-15.

3.6.2.3 Stars. Stars shall be embroidered in accordance with Embroidered Star.DST file.

3.6.2.4 Double needle stitching. Double needle stitching shall be 1/4 (± 1/16) inch gauge with the outer row of stitching 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch from the edge, unless otherwise specified in Table IV. When double needle stitching is required at corners (for cuffs, collar and cuff tape) there shall be no thread float crossing the corner (see 6.6).

3.6.2.5 Thread and stitch types. The thread and stitching requirements specified in Table III are for use the operations specified in Table IV.

TABLE III. Thread requirements for stitches.

Operation Reference paragraph Thread Type Stitch Type Thread size Ticket

No.

Ply

Seaming, stitching, tacking, star embroidery

3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle 50

2 or 3

301 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

401 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

503, 504 or

31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Buttonhole 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Bartack 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Star embroidery

36-45, Bobbin 50

Zig zag stitch of “V” neck opening

3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

304 or 404 31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

2 or 3

Crowtack stitching

3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

Embroidery 60 or 70 Tex, Needle 60 or 35 Tex, Bobbin

B or C B or

Automatic pocket machine

3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

101 50 Tex, Needle A 3 301 36-45 Tex, Needle

36-45 Tex, Bobbin 50 2 or 3

Button sewing 3.2.4.1 A-A-50199, Type I

101 36-45 Tex, Needle 50

2 or 3 301 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45, Bobbin

Star embroidery

3.2.4.4 Continuous

filament

Embroidery (Schiffli machine) 90 denier, Needle Or (Multihead machine) 120 denier or 40 weight, Needle

- 2

Monofilament 3.2.4.3 Continuous monofilament

301 18 or 19 Tex, Needle 18 or 19 Tex, Bobbin

TABLE III. Thread requirements for stitches – Continued.

Operation Reference paragraph Thread Type Stitch Type Thread size Ticket

No.

Ply

Alternate for seaming and stitching

3.2.4.2 A-A-52094, Type I

301 40 Tex, Needle 40 Tex, Bobbin

50 3

401 40 Tex, Needle 30 Tex, Bobbin

503,504, or

31-35 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

Buttonhole 36-45 Tex, Needle 36-45 Tex, Bobbin

Bartack 36-45 Tex, Needle 31-35 Tex, Bobbin

3.6.2.6 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table IV.

3.7 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched no less than 1/2-inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2-inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2-inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired by using 301 stitch type.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The jumpers shall be made in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table IV. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified, provided the finished jumpers are identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as specified in Table IV. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment.

3.9 Pressing. The jumpers shall be under pressed during construction. All pressing operations referenced in Table IV shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine.

See Figures 8 through 10 for additional pressing requirements.

3.10 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the jumper shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except those listed below.

The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices

(2) Sew-on shade tickets

(3) Adhesive type tickets, which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.11 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table IV are as follows:

Stch - Stitch Mchn - Machine Brtck - Bartack btn - Button smlr - similar Btnhl - Buttonhole Cn’d - Continued S E - Stitch Enlargement

TABLE IV. Table of operations.

No. Operation

STCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

1. Cutting.

a. The jumper shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shows size, shape, and directional lines for cutting, and notches and pattern marks for proper assembly of parts.

b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material.

2. Replacement of defective components.

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components with material defects or damages that are classified as defects in section 4 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly match components.

3. Make chest pocket.

Chest pocket welts shall be formed with an automatic double welt pocket machine. Each welt shall finish 1/8-inch wide. Welts shall be even and uniform with no raw edges, distortion, gapping, or overlapping at the ends of the pocket. The chest pockets shall be made on the front outside through yoke only. Chest pockets shall finish smooth and flat without puckering, bulging or distortion and shall be in horizontal alignment (± 1/4 inch) across front of jumper.

a. Position chest pocket on inside of jumper in accordance with pattern marks with the long portion of pocket above welt opening marks.

OR

b. Insert chest pocket welt piece in pocket machine with an appropriate size piece of interlining of a type recommended by the machine manufacturer. Stitch chest pocket welts in such a manner that the welt piece extends less than 3/4-inch above the top welt stitching on the underside of the finished, turned welt, and at least 3/4-inch below the bottom welt stitching.

101 or

Pocket Mchn

12-14

c. Turn chest pocket welts to finished position. Turn lower raw edge of welt under and stitch to chest pocket piece. Caution shall be exercised in performing this operation that no distortion or bulging results.

301 or

LSd-1 10-14

d. Topstitch 1/16-inch below lower chest pocket welt through all plies the length of the chest pocket opening and 1 or 2 stitches beyond the ends of the chest pocket opening.

301 LSca-2 (b)

12-14

e. Turn down chest pocket pieces at notches leaving top of chest pocket welt piece flat and topstitching 1/16-inch above the upper welt through all plies, the length of the chest pocket opening and 1 or 2 stitches beyond end of chest pocket opening.

301 LSca-2 (b) or

Smlr

12-14

TABLE IV. Table of operations – Continued.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

3. Make chest pockets, Continued

f. Close outer edge of chest pocket 3/8 inch from edge. 151 or 516 or 519 SSa-2 12-14

4. Crowtack, chest pocket.

a. The crowtack stitching shall be executed in accordance with stitch enlargement number 01- NCTRF-15 and shall completely cover the prescribed background design area in a close, dense and tight manner to produce a clear, sharp execution of the design with no background cloth visible. There shall be no damaged or repaired crowtacks on the jumper (See Figure 2).

b. Crowtacks at ends of chest pocket opening shall be made through the yoke, welt ends, and shall be set within 1/16-inch of the square ends of the chest pocket openings, without extending into the welts (see Figure 1)

c. Make a uniform crowtack with 3 rays at each end of chest pocket opening. The crowtack shall be stitched with the center ray pointed horizontally and the two opposite rays pointed vertically. The three rays shall be equal in length.

Crowtack See SE number

01-

NCTRF-

5. Attach combination and size labels.

Stitch the combination label to the outside of the back yoke on all four sides, catching the top edge of the size label in the bottom stitching of the combination label. The combination label shall be centered with the top edge of the label 1/2 (±1/8) inch below collar joining seam.

301 LSbj-1 12-14

6. Join front and back shoulder seams.

a. Join front and back shoulder seams 3/8-inch from edge with the wrong sides together forming body.

301 or 401 SSz-3 (a) 12-14

b. Spread seam open and flat and topstitch underside 1/8-inch gauge on each side of seam.

301 or 401 SSz-3 (b) 12-14

OR

c. Operations 6b, 7b, and 8d may be performed in one operation by using a double needle lock stitch machine with a special plough foot.

7. Join yoke shoulder seams.

a. Join yoke shoulder seams 3/8-inch from edge, face to face. 301 or 401 SSz-3 (a) 12-14

b. Spread seam open and flat and topstitch 1/8- inch gauge on each side of seam (see operation 6c).

301 or 401 SSz-3 (b) 12-14

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

8. Join collar to body and yoke.

a. Join under collar to yoke along neck, face to face. 301 or 401 SSz-3 (a) 12-14

b. Spread seam open and flat and edgestitch 1/8-inch gauge on each side of seam (see operation 6c).

301 or 401 SSz-3

(b) 12-14

c. Join top collar to body along neck with face of top collar against wrong (inside) side of body.

301 or 401 SSz-3 (a) 12-14

d. Spread seam open and flat and edge stitch 1/8-inch gauge on each side of seam (see operation 6c).

301 or 401 SSz-3 (b)

12-14

e. Stitch front yoke to body, face to wrong side of body, along neck opening and continuously stitch under collar to top collar face to face with a 5/16-inch to 3/8-inch seam. Turn, work out points and top stitch.

301 SSe-2 12-14

f. Align neckline seams and stitch from shoulder seam to shoulder seam on the back yoke along collar joining seam, superimposing the stitching over the collar joining seam edgestitching. This joins the top collar and under collar necklines together.

301 SSa-1 12-14

g. Stitch yokes to body along armholes 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch from edge.

301 or 401 SSa-1 12-14

h. Turn under and double needle stitch the lower edge of yokes to body, ensuring the pocket bag is not caught in the topstitching.

301 or 401 LSd-2 12-14

9. Neck opening.

Zig-zag stitch along “V” of neck opening from base of “V” and extending 3/4 (±1/8) inch upward on each side. Stitching shall be 1/8-inch wide and continuous. See Figure 2.

304 or 401 EFd-1 56-60

10. Collar tape.

a. Double needle stitch (see 6.6), 1/8-inch gauge, 3 rows of tape along edge of collar and body of neck opening. Each row of tape shall be continuous without splicing. The corners shall be square mitered with not thread floats. Ends of tape shall extend 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch below bottom of neck opening. Needle thread shall be black and bobbin thread shall be white. When black collar and cuff tapes are sewn to jumper, the needle thread shall not be visible on the white side of the jumper and the bobbin thread shall not be visible on the black tape.

301 SSau-2 10-14

b. The outer row of tape shall be 3/16-inch to 1/4-inch from edge with the remaining 2 rows of tape equally spaced 3/16 (± 1/32) inch from the outer row of tape. The variation in spacing between the rows of tape shall not be more than 1/16-inch.

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

10 Collar tape, Continued

c. The outer row of tape shall be square mitered at the corner when it turns at the bottom of neck opening and shall cover the bottom raw edges of all other rows of tape with the ends of tape turned under. See Figure 8.

d. Thread ends shall be trimmed as close as possible.

NOTE: Care shall be taken when trimming thread ends to not damage fabric or collar tape.

11. “V” Neck crowtack.

a. The crowtack shall be executed in accordance with stitch enlargement number 01-NCTRF-15 and shall completely cover the prescribed background design area in a close, dense, and tight manner to produce a clear, sharp execution of the design with no background cloth visible. There shall be no damaged or repaired crowstacks on the jumper (see Figure 2).

b. Make a crowtack at the bottom of the “V” neck opening 1/16 (± 1/32) inch, below the zigzag edge stitching. The center ray shall point downward and align vertically with the opening. The opposite rays shall point horizontally.

Crowtack See SE number

01-

NCTRF-

12. Collar stars.

The stitches shall be executed in accordance with Embroidered

Star.DST file and shall completely cover the background design area in a close, dense, and tightly stitched manner to produce a clear, sharp execution of the design with no cloth or underlay stitches visible.

There shall be no damaged or repaired stars on jumper.

a. Make two 5-pointed machine embroidered stars, one on each corner of the outside top collar through one or both plies. The center of the star shall be 1-1/8 (± 1/16) inches from the inner edge of the inner side and bottom rows of tape, measured perpendicularly, and the top point shall be vertically positioned on the finished jumper as worn. The star shall be sized to fit within a circle 3/4 (± 1/32) inch in diameter.

Mchn embroi-dered

Per embroil-dery file

13. Sleeve placket opening.

Clip back sleeve placket opening seam allowances 3-3/8 (±1/8) inches above the bottom raw edge of the sleeve piece indicated by marks on pattern. The clip shall not be more than 1/2-inch deep. Fold sleeve placket opening to the wrong side, turning under raw edge forming a 3/8 (±1/8) inch rolled hem and edgestitch along inner folded edge.

Stitching shall continue from the clipped notch to sleeve bottom, parallel to the turned edge.

301 EFb-2 12-14

TYPE

SEAM

/ STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

14. Make and attach cuffs.

a. Place interlining and fold cuff in half lengthwise face to face and stitch ends 1/4-inch from the edge. Turn to the outside forcing out points.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14

b. Stitch inner ply of cuff to the inside bottom edge of sleeve 1/4-inch from edge, taking up fullness of sleeve bottom in six pleats, 1/4 (± 1/16) inch deep and 1-1/4 (± 1/8) inches apart. The pleats on the outside of the sleeve shall be folded away from the top of the sleeve towards the underarm seam. Stitching shall not continue beyond cuff onto sleeve.

301 or

SSa-1 12-14

c. Turn each cuff to finished position and double stitch all sides and ends of cuff.

301 smlr LSco-6

(c)

12-14

d. Each cuff shall finish 2-1/8 (± 1/8) inches wide.

15. Cuff tape attachment.

a. Double stitch (see 6.6) 1/8-inch gauge 3 rows of tape spaced 3/16 (±

1/32) inch apart, centered horizontally on the cuff, and finished off at each end by a perpendicular strip of tape across the ends of the horizontal stripes. The distance from the outer edge of perpendicular strips to each end of the cuff shall be 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inches.

301 SSau-2 10-14

b. The outer row of tape shall be attached in one continuous operation and square mitered at corners (with no thread floats, see 6.6) with end of tape turned under, covering the ends of the middle tape. See Figure 3.

c. Tape application may be performed in one stitching sequence starting with the middle row of tape.

16. Attach sleeves, finish armholes and close sides.

a. Stitch sleeves to armhole with sleeves on top of body on the outside. 301 or

LSq-3

(a) 12-14

b. Double needle stitch sleeves around armhole with sleeves on top of body on the outside.

301 or

LSq-3 (b)

12-14

OR

Use c as an alternate to a and b.

c. Double-lap and double-stitch sleeves to armholes with sleeves on top of body on the outside.

301 or

LSc-2 12-14

d. Double-lap and double-stitch sleeves and side seams in one continuous operation, with fronts over back on outside. The side seam on the left side should continue to the step where the top of the slide fastener is to be attached. The stitching should continue to 1/4-inch beyond the clip at sleeve opening (Operation 13).

301 or

LSc-2 12-14

TYPE

SEAM

/ STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

16. Attach sleeves, finish armholes and close sides, Continued

e. The sleeve opening shall finish lapped (not abutted.)

17. Bottom hem.

a. Turn bottom under 3/8-to-1/2-inch matching side seams within 1/4 inch and hem bottom to finish 1-1/2 (± 1/4) inches wide inserting a tape for hanger loop in the hem at each side of the front approximately 1/2 inch from the side seam. The hangar loop shall be folded towards the top of the jumper. The hangar loop shall not interfere with the function of the slide fastener.

301 EFa-1 12-14

b. Hanger loops shall have a 1-1/4 (± 1/4) inches free opening.

18. Slide fastener (left side only).

a. Overedge raw edges of front and back slide fastener opening. 503 or

EFa-1 12-14

b. Turn under the slide fastener opening 7/8 (± 1/16) inch from step on front, matching the double needle side seam allowance, and topstitch 1/16 (± 1/32) inch from the folded edge to give the appearance of continuing the seam of Operation 16d.

301 OSf-2 12-14

c. On the back slide fastener opening, clip the seam allowance 1/2 inch as indicated by marks on pattern. Turn the seam allowance under to the depth of the clip. Place the slide fastener face up with the fold of the seam allowance on top of the slide fastener tape alongside and close to the chain, aligning with seam allowance. Stitch through all layers 1/16 (± 1/32) inch from the folded edge.

301 LSb-1 12-14

d. Align the edge of the slide fastener tape with the edge of the opening on the front and form welt over slide fastener to cover. The folded and topstitched opening edge shall completely conceal the slide fastener.

Stitch through all layers 5/16 (± 1/16) inch from the folded edge, meeting the side seam stitching (see Figure 7).

301 LSb-1 12-14

Top stop of slide fastener shall finish 1/4 (-0, +1/16) inch from bottom of finished hem.

e. Finished slide fastener length, see Table I.

19. Sleeve bartacks.

a. Stitch one bartack across each sleeve placket opening 2-3/4 (±

1/8) inches from cuff seam at base of lapped seam allowance opening, catching ends of double stitching, through all plies.

Brtck or Automati c loop tacker

21-28 per brtck or 24-28 per tack

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

20. Buttonholes, cuffs.

a. Buttonholes shall be 7/8-inch long, cut first, eyelet-end, square-bar-type, worked-over gimp. The gimp shall be pulled through to the inside. Purling shall finish on the outside. A 1/4-inch bartack, made in a separate operation, shall be positioned over the end of the buttonhole opposite the eyelet, perpendicular to and centered with respect to the cut. The tack shall securely catch the ends of the gimp and cover the width of the bar.

b. Two horizontal buttonholes on the upper side of each cuff, centered 1-1/8 (± 1/8) inches apart and 1/2 (± 1/8) inch from front edge when measured from inside edge of eyelets or buttonhole opening.

btnhl and brtck

21. Button, cuffs.

a. Sew two buttons 1/2 (± 1/8) inch from edge on the under-flap side of each cuff to correspond with the cuff buttonhole eyelets.

101 or

20-22 per btn or

14-16 per btn

b. The crown of the anchor on all buttons shall point toward the bottom of the jumper. The stitching of the button shall fall in the grooves provided in the button, except for the one cross-over stitch.

22. Removable size ticket.

Tack a removable size ticket (3.2.7.3) to the outside of the lower right sleeve, stitching at all four corners. As an alternate, a short plastic barb attaching the removable size ticket to the bottom hem may be used, providing the entire ticket is visible below the bottom hem, and the ticket shall not tear easily.

Hand or Mchn

2-4 per tack or 6-8 per tack

23. Cleaning.

a. Trim and remove all loose ends of threads.

b. Remove all shade tickets.

c. Care shall be taken when trimming thread ends so that damage to fabric does not result.

24. Pressing.

a. Jumper shall be fully pressed, with jumper turned inside out using a heated iron or pressing machine.

b. Fold collar in half matching edges (star on star/undercollar to undercollar) and press collar to crease (see Figure 8). Unfold collar, turn side collar edges in (undercollar to undercollar) with crease at star and press collar flat. Creases shall extend from collar joining seam to bottom edge of collar (see Figure 9).

TYPE

SEAM/

STCH

TYPE

STCH

PER

INCH

24. Pressing, Continued

c. Press sleeves flat with underarm seam to front of jumper. Crease sleeves from shoulder seam to 5-inches from cuff joining seam. Sleeve pleats shall not be pressed.

d. Press body of jumper smooth and flat, with side seams rolled to front. Crease side seams.

e. Remove all gloss and impressions.

(1) When buck pressing, apply vacuum only after unlocking.

When automatic press is used, apply bottom steam and dry only.

(2) If impressions and gloss occur, the buck may be lowered in that area without locking, and the garment steamed and dried, to remove impressions and gloss.

25. Folding.

Each jumper turned inside out shall be folded as follows:

a. Lay jumper flat, front up (inside out) fold sleeves straight across chest with the cuff folded back approximately 6-inches.

b. Fold the jumper in half by placing one shoulder on top of the other, maintaining pressed lines on collar.

c. Fold collar on to jumper.

d. Fold jumper so the fold length is approximately 15-inches with barcode showing.

3.12 Sizes and measurements. Sizes and measurements of the finished jumper shall be as shown in Table V when measured as specified in 4.4.4.1. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches.

TABLE V. Table of finished dimensions.

Size Chest

(A) Sweep

(B) Center Back Length (C) Collar

Width (D) Collar

Depth (E) Cuff

Length (F) X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long 30 33 31-1/8 21-3/4 22-3/4 24-1/4 26-1/4 28-1/4 30-1/4 10-1/2 9-1/8 8-3/4 32 35 33-1/8 22 23 24-1/2 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 10-3/4 9-1/4 9 34 37 35-1/8 22-1/4 23-1/4 24-3/4 26-3/4 28-3/4 30-3/4 11 9-3/8 9-1/4 36 39 37-1/8 22-1/2 23-1/2 25 27 29 31 11-1/4 9-1/2 9-1/2 38 41 39-1/8 22-3/4 23-3/4 25-1/4 27-1/4 29-1/4 31-1/4 11-1/2 9-5/8 9-3/4 40 43 41-1/8 23 24 25-1/2 27-1/2 29-1/2 31-1/2 11-3/4 9-3/4 10 42 45 43-1/8 23-1/4 24-1/4 25-3/4 27-3/4 29-3/4 31-3/4 12- 9-7/8 10-1/4 44 47 45-1/8 23-1/2 24-1/2 26 28 30 32 12-1/4 10 10-1/2 46 49 47-1/8 23-3/4 24-3/4 26-1/4 28-1/4 30-1/4 32-1/4 12-1/2 10-1/8 10-3/4 48 51 49-1/8 24 25 26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 12-3/4 10-1/4 11 50 53 51-1/8 24-1/4 25-1/4 26-3/4 28-3/4 30-3/4 32-3/4 13 10-3/8 11-1/4 52 55 53-1/8 24-1/2 25-1/2 27 29 31 33 13-1/4 10-1/2 11-1/2

Tol. ± 1 ± 1 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4

TABLE V. Table of finished dimensions – Continued.

Size Sleeve Length (G) Distance between Chest

Pocket & V-neck opening (H)

Chest pocket welt opening

(J)

Chest pocket depth (K) X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX- Long

30 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 2 2-5/8 3-5/8 32 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 2-1/8 2-5/8 3-5/8 34 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 2-3/8 2-5/8 3-5/8 36 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 2-1/2 2-5/8 3-5/8 38 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 2-3/4 3-1/2 4-1/4 40 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 2-7/8 3-1/2 4-1/4 42 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 3 3-1/2 4-1/4 44 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 3 3-1/2 4-1/4 46 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 3-1/8 3-1/2 4-1/4 48 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 3-1/4 3-1/2 4-1/4 50 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 3-3/8 3-1/2 4-1/4 52 31-3/4 33 34-1/4 35-3/4 37-1/4 38-3/4 3-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/4

Tol. ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/2 ± 1/8 ± 1/4 ± 1/4

3.13 Workmanship. Each finished jumper shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. Each finished jumper shall be examined after pressing and prior to folding for packaging. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value established under this document. The finished jumper shall be constructed without any puckering, bulging or distortion.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article inspections shall consist of the examinations and tests specified in 4.4.2 through 4.4.4.1 shall be inspected for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, appearance, and dimensional requirements specified in this document.

4.2.1 First article samples. Unless other specified, first article samples shall be provided. The sample size will be specified in the procurement document (see 6.2). The sample shall be one finished jumper.

The lot size shall be expressed in units of jumpers.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations specified in through 4.4.4.1.

4.3.1 Conformance inspection samples. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one finished jumper. The lot size shall be expressed in units of jumpers.

4.4. Inspection methods.

4.4.1 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with the requirements specified in Section 3. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished jumper shall be classified as a defect in accordance with this document.

4.4.2 Component and material examinations and tests. In accordance with 4.3, components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the specified examinations and tests of Table VI.

TABLE VI. Component and material verification.

Material Characteristic Requirement Verification 1/ Basic material All 3.2.1 NCTRF-PD-87052 Interlining All 3.2.2 A-A-50128 Tape All 3.2.3 A-A-52071 2/ 3/ Thread, cotton-covered, polyester core

All 3.2.4.1 A-A-50199 2/

Thread, cotton (alt) All 3.2.4.2 A-A-52094 2/ Thread, crowtack All 3.2.4.1.1 A-A-50199 2/ Embroidery yarn (star) Denier 3.2.4.4 ASTM D1907

Fiber identification 3.2.4.4 ASTM D276 Ply 3.2.4.4 Visual Colorfastness to laundering 3.2.4.4 AATCC TM61, 2A 4/

Thread, gimp, cotton All 3.2.4.5 A-A-50198 Colorfastness to:

Light 3.2.4.5 AATCC TM16.3 A 2/ Wet-Dry Cleaning 3.2.4.5 AATCC TM132 Perspiration 3.2.4.5 AATCC TM15

Buttons All 3.2.5 MIL-B-17143 Slide Fastener All 3.2.6 A-A-55634 Labels All 3.2.7 MIL-DTL-32075

1/ When end item document is cited, all requirements and test methods listed in applicable end item document shall be performed.

2/ Only the stain on the cotton fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. Rated using AATCC

EP2.

3/ The tape shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum Grade 5 rating when tested in accordance with AATCC TM61, Test 3A.

4/ The yarn shall meet colorfastness after laundering with a minimum Grade 5 rating when tested in accordance with AATCC TM61, Test 2A.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The jumpers shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking and the defects classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII. Defects.

Defects Critical Major Minor

1. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES

a. Any hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, scorched area, multiple float or open place. 1

b. Misweave, shading, broken and missing section of yarn, visible mend, thin place, or shade bar. 2

c. Slubs or knots which exceed the limits specified in the basic cloth specification. 100

d. Snag, pulled yarn or needle chew on outside, visible at normal inspection distance. 101

e. Woven in waste, visible at 3 feet inspection distance. 102

2. SHADED PART(S)

a. Variation in shade within a part or between parts. 3

b. Part(s) cut from ends poor approximation to shade of jumper. 103

3. CLEANNESS

a. Any spot or stain on outside. 4

b. Any spot or stain on inside. 200

c. More than 3 thread ends not trimmed to 1/4 inch or less on outside, unless otherwise specified. 104

d. More than 5 thread ends not trimmed to 1/2 inch or less on inside, unless otherwise specified. 201

e. Shade or size markings not removed. 202

4. COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any component part or operation omitted. 105

b. Any component not as specified. 106

c. Any component part tight, twisted, misplaced, pleated, or full. 107

d. Any operation not as specified. 108

e. The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8-inch 109

5. CUTTING

a. Any component part not cut in accordance with patterns, or not in accordance with requirements. 110

6. PRESSING

a. Burned or scored. 5

b. Poorly pressed or pressing omitted. 111

c. Collar or sleeves not creased as specified. 112

d. Hard pressed, forming gloss, impressions or discoloration on outside. 6

e. Jumper not turned inside out. 203

f. Sleeve pleats pressed. 204

g. Gloss and impressions not removed. 205

6. SEAMS AND STITCHING

a. Accuracy of seaming.

1. Seams twisted, puckered, or pleated on outside. 113

TABLE VII. Defects – Continued.

7. SEAMS AND STITCHING, Continued

2. Multiple pleats on inside of seam for a distance of more than 1-inch. 114

3. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching. 115

4. Ends of all seams and stitching when not backstitched nor caught in other seams or stitching, nor backstitched less than 1/4-inch. 116

5. Ends of continuous line of stitching overlapped less than 1/2-inch (except labels). 206

6. Thread breaks not secured or stitching back of the break less than 1/2-inch. 207

7. Incorrect or varying shades of thread used on outside on jumper. 117

b. Gauge of stitching.

1. Irregular, more than 1/16-inch, i.e., unevenly gauged, not uniform. 118

2. Double needle stitching width greater than specified or varies more than 1/16-inch when no range is specified. 119

3. Edgestitching 1/32-inchfrom edge or beyond edge cloth. 120

c. Open seams (resulting from 2 or more skipped, broken, run-off, or missing stitches)

1. On joining seams (includes one or both rows of double needle stitching).

a. Less than 1/4-inch. 208

b. 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch. 121

c. more than 1/2-inch. 7

2. On overedging.

a. up to 3-inches. 209

b. more than 3-inches 122

3. On edge or topstitching.

a. up to 1/2-inch on inside. 210

b. more than 1/2-inch on inside or on outside. 123

4. On trimming (tape).

a. 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch. 211

b. more than 1/2-inch 124

d. Raw edges not caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

Raw edge is classified as such only when it occurs at places where edge is required to be turned under or overedged.

1. On outside.

a. Less than 1/8-inch. 212

b. 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch inclusive. 125

c. more than 1/2-inch 8

2. On inside (excepted at clip at top of sleeve opening (Operation 15)

7. SEAMS AND STITCHING, Continued

a. 1/2-inch to 1-inch long inclusive. 213

b. more than 1-inch long 126

3. Overedging omitted (Score as raw edge on inside). 127

e. Seams and stitching.

1. Not specified seam or stitch type. 128

2. Looper thread of 401 or loops of chain side of 101 stitch type finishing on the outside of the jumper. 129

3. Any line of stitching not beginning or ending where specified. 214

f. Stitch tension.

1. Loose tension resulting in a loose seam (stitches grin).

a. up to 1/2-inch inclusive. 215

b. more than 1/2-inch up to 3/4-inch inclusive. 130

c. more than 3/4-inch. 9

2. Loose tension on top or edgestitching resulting in exposed loose threads. 131

3. Tight tension (stitches break when strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching or causes puckering). 132

4. Uneven tension on collar or cuff tape, stitching resulting in needle threads showing on front or bobbin threads showing on tape, stitch not balanced. 1/ 133

g. Stitches per inch (Score only when condition for more than 2-inches)

1. One stitch less than then minimum or 3 or more in excess of the maximum specified. 216

2. Two stitches less than minimum specified. 134

3. Three or more stitches less than minimum specified. 10

8. CROWTACKS

a. Any omitted. 11

b. Any insecure, or not positioned as specified. 135

c. One or more skipped or broken stitches.

1. in one crowtack. 217

2. in two crowtacks. 136

d. Any crowtack not in accordance with requirements specified in Figure 1 and 2. 137

e. Pocket crowtack stitching extended into welt area. 218

f. Crowtacks set more than 1/16-inch away from the square ends of the front pocket opening. 138

g. Any crowtack not in accordance with Drawing Number 01-NCTRF-15. 139

h. Incomplete cover, i.e., background cloth visible, any crowtack not smooth and flat or puckered. 219

i. Bobbin threads visible, affecting appearance. 220

j. Any damages or repaired crowtacks. 12

9. BARTACKS

a. Any missing, insecure, not positioned as specified, not a specified, or not serving intended purpose.

1. one bartack. 221

2. two bartacks 140

b. One or more skipped or broken stitches.

1. in one bartack. 222

2. in two bartacks. 141

c. Incomplete cover, i.e., background cloth visible. 223

d. Bobbin threads visible, affecting appearance. 224

e. Any damaged or repaired bartacks. 13

10. BUTTONS

a. Missing, loose, or defective. 142

b. Not specified type, color, or size. 143

c. Button not aligned with buttonhole eyelet, causing bulge, puckering, distortion or twist when buttoned. 144

d. Crown of anchor not pointed toward bottom of jumper. 225

e. Stitching not in button grooves (except for crossover stitch). 226

11. BUTTONHOLES

a. Omitted. 145

b. Not specified type or size. 146

c. Uncut or partially cut buttonhole. 147

d. Buttonhole not securely caught on fabric causing stitching to pull away from, fabric. 148

e. End not securely tacked, or tack not placed as specified. 149

f. Ragged edges, i.e., yarn or thread ends on inside of buttonhole not trimmed to less than 1/4-inch. 227

g. Gimp omitted. 150

h. Gimp not pulled through to inside. 228

i. Purling on the underside of cuff or flap. 229

j. Positioned off center of pocket flap by more than 1/4-inch. 151

k. One or more broken or two or more skipped stitches. 152

l. Position from bottom edge of pocket flap (measured from inside edge of eyelet).

1. less than 3/8-inch or more than 5/8-inch. 230

2. less than 1/4-inch or more than 3/4-inch 153

m. Stitching incomplete. 154

n. Crooked or positioned incorrectly. 155

o. Positioned off center of cuff by more than 1/4-inch 156

p. Position from edge of cuff (measured from inside edge of eyelet).

1. less than 3/8-inch or more than 5/8-inch. 231

2. less than 1/4-inch or more than 3/4-inch. 157

12. “V” NECK OPENING

a. Zigzag stitching.

1. Omitted. 14

2. Stitching incomplete. 158

3. Stitching extending less than 5/8-inch or more than 7/8-inch upward on each side of “V” neck opening or not continuous. 159

4. Not as specified. 232

b. Stitching of yoke to body causing puckering, distortion, twisting or bulging on front, along front edge of opening or at base of “V”. 160

c. Thread ends not trimmed to 1/8-inch or less. 161

d. Stitching uneven in length side to side by more than 1/8-inch along of “V” neck opening. 162

13. CHEST WELT POCKET

a. Welts irregular in width by more than 1/16 inch within or between welts. 163

b. Welt width less than 1/16 inch or more than 3/16. 233

c. Opening between welts gapped more than 1/8 inch at center. 164

d. Pocket opening less than 2-7/8-inches or more than 3-3/8-inches wide for sizes 4 thru 10 or opening less than 3-1/4-inches or more than 3-3/4-inches for sizes 12 thru 26. 165

e. Pocket less than 3-3/4-inches or more than 4-1/4-inches deep at center for sizes 4 thru 10, or pocket less than 4-inches or more than 4-1/2-inches deep at center for sizes 12 thru 26. 234

f. One or both crowtack stitched…