NCTRF PD 04-11A - NWU APECS Trouser Spec.pdf

NCTRF PD 04-11A

17 April 2012

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 04-11

14 July 2010

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS ALL PURPOSE ENVIRONMENTAL CAMOUFLAGE SYSTEM (APECS) U. S.

NAVY WORKING UNIFORM, DESERT AND WOODLAND

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the US Navy working uniform APECS trouser in desert and woodland camouflage.

1.2 Classification. The trousers are available in the following types and sizes:

Type I – See 6.6 Type II– Desert Camouflage NWU II Type III – Woodland Camouflage NWU III

Schedule of Sizes

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long X-Small X X X X X Small X X X X X Medium X X X X X Large -- X X X X X-Large -- X X X X XX-Large -- -- -- X X

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT:

This notice is to advise you that the Government possesses intellectual property / trademark rights in the following Navy patterns and logos: Desert and Woodland digitized pattern; and the anchor / Constitution / eagle (ACE) logo (hereafter collectively referred to as “intellectual property”). The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above-mentioned intellectual property. Therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property. Doing so will be considered an infringement on the Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

CAGE CODE : 32263

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they shall meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FED-STD-595/20180 Brown, Semi gloss FED-STD-595/23430 Yellow, Semi gloss FED-STD-595/34094 Green, Pigment

COMMERICAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester-Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered

A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43701 Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester MIL-DTL-10884 Fasteners, Snap MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) MIL-PRF-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-T-3530 Thread and Twine: Mildew Resistant Or Water Repellent Treated MIL-DTL-32072 Thread, Polyester

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2. Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 06-11 Cloth, Waterproof and Moisture Vapor Permeable

(Copies of this document are available from the procuring agency)

SPECIAL OPERATIONS FORCES SURVIVAL, SUPPORT AND EQUIPMENT

SYSTEMS

PM-SOF SSES SPEC 07-11 Camouflage Print Performance Specification for AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II and NWU III

(Copies of this document is available from U. S Army, Research, Development and Engineering Command, PM-Special Operations Forces Survival, Support and Equipment Systems, Kansas Street, BLDG 4, Natick, MA 01760.) (See 6.3)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Evaluation Procedures

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, Nine Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Differences of Textiles

Test Methods

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking; AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 22 Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC 118 Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test AATCC 119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting) AATCC 127 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes http://www.aatcc.org/

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or American Society for Quality, P.O. Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005 or 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 751 Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics ASTM D1005 Standard Test Method for Measurement of Dry-Film

Thickness of Organic Coatings Using Micrometers ASTM D1776 Standard Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing ASTM D2582 Standard Test Method of Puncture Propagation Tear Resistance of

Plastic Film and Thin Sheeting ASTM D3776 Standard Test Method Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Woven

Fabric ASTM D3884 Standard Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength of Textile Fabrics ASTM D6193 Standard Practices for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition), A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 - 1060, 2001.

(Copies of this publication are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

TECHNICAL ASSOCIATION OF THE PULP AND PAPER INDUSTRY (TAPPI)

TAPPI Method 451 – Stiffness of Paperboard (Clark Stiffness Method)

(Applications for copies of referenced documents are available via http://www.tappi.org or should be addressed to TAPPI Press, Technology Park/Atlanta, P.O. Box 105113, Atlanta, GA 30348-5113.)

INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATION FOR STANDARDIZATION

ISO 15496 Measurement of Water Vapour Permeability of Textiles For The Purpose Of Quality Control

(Copies of this document is available on-line at http://www.iso.org or from International Organization for Standardization (ISO), 1, Rue de Varembre, Case Postale, 56 CH 1211 Geneva 20, Switzerland) http://www.ansi.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ http://www.tappi.org/ http://www.iso.org/

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence.

Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.1.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The trousers front closure shall have an elastic drawcord at the waist with barrel locks, a snap fastener and a front slide fastener fly opening. Belt loops shall be positioned on the waist with two suspender loops on the inside of the waistband. Leg openings shall have a slide fastener closure and adjustment tabs with hook and loop fastener tape. The trouser front shall have two cargo pockets with bellows and two 6-3/4 (±1/4) inch pass-through pocket opening. Cargo and pass-through pockets shall have tapered pocket flaps with two hook and loop fastener tape closures. Knees and seat shall be reinforced with patches, and reinforcement patches at the seat and knees.

3.3.1 Belt loop locations. Sizes X-Small and Small shall have 5 belt loops; Sizes Medium through XX-Large shall have 7 and the finished position shall be in accordance with the following:

Size Belt Loop Locations (inches)

Right Front

1/

Left Front

2/

Right Side Front

3/

Left Side Front

4/

Right Side Back

5/

Left Side Back

6/

Center Back

X-Small 6-1/2 4-1/2 - - 1 1 7/ Small 7-1/2 5-1/2 - - 1-1/2 1-1/2 7/ Medium 4-1/2 2-1/2 3 3 3 3 7/ Large 5-1/2 3-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 3-1/2 3-1/2 7/ X-Large 5-1/2 3-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 4 4 7/ XX-Large 5-1/2 3-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 5 5 7/ Tolerance ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± 1/4 ± ¼ ± 1/4

1/ When measured from the center of the belt loop to the raw edge of the right fly 2/ When measured from the center of the belt loop to the folded edge of the left fly 3/ When measured from the center of the belt loop to the side seam on the front right panel of the trouser.

4/ When measured from the center of the belt loop to the side seam on the front left panel of the trouser.

5/ When measured from the center of the belt loop to the side seam on the back right panel of the trouser.

6/ When measured from the center of the belt loop to the side seam on the back left panel of the trouser.

7/ The belt loop shall be centered over the center back joining seam.

3.3.2 Figures. Figures 1-6 shall be for reference only. When inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.4 Materials. The materials shall conform to applicable specifications, standards, and drawings required herein.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trouser shall be a laminated, waterproof and moisture vapor permeable cloth composed of a Polytetrafluoroethylene membrane faced with nylon and a knit backing material, in accordance with NCTRF PD 06-11 as follows:

Trouser type Material type Type II Type II, NWU II, desert digital w/ACE logo Type III Type III, NWU III, woodland digital w/ ACE logo

3.4.2 Reinforcement material. The reinforcement material for the seat, knee, and cargo pockets shall be camouflage printed nylon, water repellent treated, and conform to the requirements stated in Table I when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1. The reinforcement material for the Type II trouser shall be NWU II desert camouflage print and the material for the Type III trouser shall be NWU III woodland camouflage print, in accordance with PM-SOF SSESS SPEC 07-11 except the authorized testing facility shall be the DLA Product Testing Center – Analytical (see 6.7).

TABLE I. Reinforcement material requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz/sq. yd 4.0 to 6.0 Breaking strength (minimum) (lbs)

Warp 200 Fill 155

TABLE I. Reinforcement material requirements (continued)

Colorfastness to:

Crocking, dry and wet

All colors except black 519(min) 3.5 Black 519(min) 1.5

Laundering, All colors except black 519 3-4 Black 519 2-3

Light, all colors 3-4

Perspiration, all colors(min) (Alkaline/Acid)

Grade 3 Spray rating (minimum)

Initial 100, 100, 90 After 1 Laundering 90, 90, 80

Stiffness (cm), maximum Warp 11.0 Filling 11.0

Puncture propagation of tear, kgf (avg) Warp 7.0 Filling 6.0

Resistance to organic liquid No wetting by N-Tetradecane Resistance to frosting (minimum) 3.0 Dimensional stability (maximum)

Warp 4.0% Fill 4.0%

Abrasion resistance(min) 800 cycles– no visible abrasion

3.4.3 Standard sample. The basic material (3.4.1) and the reinforcement material (3.4.2) shall match the NWU Type II Desert and NWU Type III Woodland standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Visual shade matching and spectral reflectance requirement shall be in accordance with PM-SOF SSES SPEC 07-11 except the authorized testing facility shall be the DLA Product Testing Center – Analytical (see 6.7).

3.4.4 Three-layer knit laminate. As an alternate the material for the leg opening windflap may be a three-layer knit laminate conforming to the requirements in Table II when tested in accordance with paragraph 4.3.1.1.

TABLE II. Three-layer knit laminate requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz./sq. yd. 4.0 (±0.4) Stiffness, cm (max) 8.0 Hydrostatic Resistance, psi (min)

Initial taffeta restraint 220 After deet (diethylotoluamide) 120

Puncture Propagation of Tear, kgf (min) (avg) Warp 3.5 Fill 3.5

Water permeability Initial No leakage After synthetic perspiration No leakage

Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate (gm./sq. m/24 hours) (minimum) 6000

Physical surface appearance after laundering No change after 5 launderings when compared to unlaundered

3.5 Components. The trouser components shall conform to applicable specifications and standards required herein.

3.5.1 Component colors. The color of the components for the trouser shall be a good match to the color chip numbers specified in Table III and accordance with FED-STD-595.

TABLE III. Component color.

Component/Materials Color Chip Number

Reference Paragraph

Three-layer knit laminate 23430 3.4.4 Sealing Tape 23430 3.5.2 Nylon tape 20180 3.5.3 Waist drawcord 20180 3.5.4 Fastener tapes, hook and loop 3.5.5

Type II-Desert 20180 Type III-Woodland 34094

Slide Fasteners 20180 3.5.6 Slide fastener thong, Alternate 20180 3.5.7 Barrel lock 20180 3.5.8 Thread 3.5.9

Type II-Desert 20180 Type III – Woodland 34094

3.5.2 Sealing tape. The seam sealing tape shall be in accordance with W.L. Gore Part #6GTAJ025KHKN or equal. The sealing tape shall be used to cover and seal all designated seams and stitching in accordance with paragraphs 3.7.2 and 3.8. The sealing tape shall be 1 (±1/16) inch wide for all seams. (see 6.4.1)

3.5.3 Tape, nylon. The nylon tape for suspender loops shall be a flat l/2 inch wide, conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038. (see 6.4.2). As an alternate, the suspender loops may be fabricated from the basic material.

3.5.4 Waist drawcord. The waist drawcord shall be 3/16 inch in diameter multi-strand rubber elastic with braided nylon or polyester covering, conforming to Type II of MIL-C-43701. As an alternate the waistband drawcord may be a non elastic polyester cord 3/16 (+ 1/32) inches in diameter with a minimum tensile strength of 200 pounds when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1. The draw cord shall be cut to lengths specified in Table IV (see 6.4.2).

TABLE IV. Cut lengths waist drawcords (inches).

Size Length

X-Small 38 Small 42 Medium 46 Large 50 X-Large 54 XX-Large 58 Tolerance ±1

3.5.5 Fastener tapes, hook and loop. The hook fastener tape shall conform to Type II of A-A-55126. The hook and loop fastener tapes shall conform to class 1 or 4 of A-A-55126. The lengths and widths shall be as specified in Table V. (see 6.4.3)

TABLE V. Hook and loop lengths (inches).

Location

Quantity

Length and Width Tolerance Hook Loop

Pass Thru Pocket Flap 4 --- 2 x 1 ±1/4

Pass Thru Pocket Opening 4 2 x 1 --- ±1/4

Cargo Pocket Flap 4 --- 2 x 1 ±1/4

Cargo Pocket 4 2 x 1 --- ±1/4 Ankle Tabs 2 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 --- ±1/4

Leg Opening 2 --- 6-3/4 x 1-1/2 ±1/2

3.5.6 Fastener, slide, interlocking. The leg opening and front fly slide fasteners shall be continuous element polyester monofilament coil, Size 5-7, equipped with a single pull, automatic locking slider conforming to A-A-55634. The leg opening slide fasteners shall be 17 (+1/16, -1/4) inches in length for all sizes. Front fly slide fastener lengths shall be as specified in Table VI. The leg opening and fly slide fasteners shall have a plastic bottom stop permanently secured without prongs protruding through the tape and a reverse bale slider. The tape side of the fastener tape shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick, when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1 (see 6.4.4).

TABLE VI. Front fly slide fastener lengths (inches).

X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long

X-Small 7-1/2 7-1/2 7-1/2 9 9 Small 7-1/2 7-1/2 9 9 10

Medium 7-1/2 9 9 10 10 Large - 9 10 10 11

X-Large - 9 10 10 11 XX-Large - - - 11 11 Tolerance ±3/16 ±3/16 ±3/16 ±3/16 ±3/16

3.5.7 Slide fastener thong. The front fly slide fastener thong shall be made from a 3/8 inch width tape conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038 (see 6.4.2). As an alternate the front fly slide fastener thong may be made from the basic material.

3.5.8 Barrel lock. The barrel lock for the waist drawcord shall be a 1/2-inch x 3/8-inch toaster elliptical shape with a push-button, and have a 3-pound minimum holding strength on the drawcord (3.5.4) at - 40°F, 70°F and 140°F when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1 and meet the infrared reflectance requirements in Table VII when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1. Barrel locks known to meet these requirements are ITW NEXUS part #350-6000-5674(w/self purging drain hole), ITW NEXUS part #350-2000-5674, or YKK's Cord Lock #69150 LC05SHDM GOV CORD STOPPER or #0089716 LC05SHDM2 GOV CORD STOPPER . (See 6.4.5)

TABLE VII. Barrel lock infrared spectral reflectance requirements.

Wavelengths (nanometers) Minimum Maximum

600 16 26 620 18 26 640 20 30 660 22 34 680 26 38 700 30 40 720 32 46

TABLE VII. Barrel lock infrared spectral reflectance requirements. (continued)

Wavelengths (nanometers) Minimum Maximum

740 36 50 760 36 54 780 38 58 800 40 59 820 42 60 840 44 60 860 48 60

3.5.9 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester conforming to Type I, class 1, subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072, Tex size 36-45, 2 or 3 ply. As an alternate, polyester core thread conforming to Type I of A-A-50199, Tex size 36-45, 2 or 3 ply may be used. All thread shall be water-repellent treated in accordance with Type II, class 3 of MIL-T-3530. All visible thread shall be the same shade.

3.5.10 Fastener, snap. The snap fastener for the center front closure shall be style 2, finish 2 male and female complete, consisting of stud and eyelet, size 1 or 2 (24 Line), button and socket, conforming to MIL-DTL-10884 with the exception that the socket shall be “Easy Action” or equal. All components of the snap fastener shall be from the same supplier. (see 6.4.6)

3.3.11 Labels.

3.5.11.1 Combination personal/identification/care label. Each trouser shall have a combination personal/identification/care instruction label conforming to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 except omit the words “Service Number” and replace with a drawn line without information. The label shall be placed one inch to the right from the inside center back waistband and caught in the waistband stitching. The color of the label shall be white or neutral.

The label shall be printed with indelible ink and shall be legible for the life of the garment. The label and shall bear the following inscription:

NAME

TROUSER, APEC, US NAVY WORKING UNIFORM Type II/III (as applicable)

100% NYLON SHELL, PTFE LAMINATE

CONTRACT NO: SPO100-00-C-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR)

DATE OF MANUFACTURE (MM/YY):

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

WARNING!!

DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, DRY CLEAN OR PRESS THE TROUSERS

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS

Home Laundering (Machine/Hand):

Use a Permanent Press or Normal Cotton Machine Setting or

Hand Wash Using a Mild Detergent. Rinse Thoroughly in Warm Water.

NOTE: Any Residual Detergent on The trousers Will Decrease The Water Repellency.

Home Drying:

Tumble Dry on Permanent Press or Cotton Setting, Remove Immediately From Dryer.

Do not drip dry.

or

Shipboard Laundry:

Trouser shall be Laundered Utilizing “Shipboard Formula III"

Shipboard Drying:

Tumble Dry at Low Temperature Setting. Remove Immediately From Dryer. Do Not Overheat or Over Dry. For Restoration of Water Repellent Finish, Dry at a Temperature Not to Exceed 150oF. Do not drip dry.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.5.11.2 Size label. Each trouser shall have a size label, with the inseam and waist measurements indicated, conforming to type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be placed one inch to the right of the combo label and caught in the waistband stitching. All printing shall be legible for the life of the garment. The inscription shall be as stated below.

There shall be no abbreviations for size and length except for “X” and “XX” in lieu of extra and extra, extra. The size label can be combined with the combination personal/identification/care instructions label.

(EXAMPLE)

X-Small X-Short

Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX- XXXX

X-Small X-Short Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX- XXXX

Small X-Short Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium X-Short Inseam: Up to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-l/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: Over 39 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Over 43 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-

X-Small X-Long Inseam: Over 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Up to 27 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small X-Long Inseam: Over 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium X-Long Inseam: Over 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large X-Long Inseam: Over 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large X-Long Inseam: Over 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large X-Long Inseam: Over 35-1/2 in.

Waist: Over 43 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

3.5.11.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be a standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to the slide fastener thong of each item by a non puncturing fastener and, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code.

The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns, which provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all sealed seams and 3/8 inch for all other seams, will be furnished by the Government. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment however, the design and finished measurements shall be maintained. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensions or appearance requirements.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in the pattern list.

List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature Cut Number

Basic material (3.4.1)

PD0411-FRONT

PD0411-BACK

PD0411-PASSTHRU_PKFL

PD0411-ANKLE_TAB

PD0411-PASSTHRU_PKFC

PD0411-LG_WFLP_OUT

PD0411-LG_WFLP_INR

Front Back Pass thru pocket flap Ankle tab Pass thru pocket facing Leg opening windflap (outer) Leg opening windflap (inner)

Reinforcement material (3.4.2)

PD0411-CARGO_POCKET

PD0411-CRG_PCKT_FLAP

PD0411-CRG_PCKT_FAC

PD0411-CRG_PKT_BEL

PD0411-SEAT_PATCH

PD0411-KNEE_PATCH

PD0411-EYEREINFORCE

Cargo pocket Cargo pocket flap Cargo pocket facing Cargo pocket bellows Seat patch Knee patch Waist eyelet reinforcement

Three-layer knit laminate (3.4.4)

PD0411-LG_WFLP_INR 1/ Leg opening windflap (Inner) 2

Templates PD0411-CRG_PKT_TMP

PD0411-CG_PK_FL_TMP

PD0411-PASS_FLP_TMP

Cargo pocket template Cargo pocket flap template Pass thru pocket flap template

1/ As an alternate, basic material (3.4.1) may be used.

3.7 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in Table VIII and herein.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to ASTM-D-6193. The type of seam, stitching and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table VIII. Seam construction shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges (except the pass thru pocket) , run-offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur. .When two or more methods of seams or stitches are given for the same operation, any one may be used.

3.7.1.1 Type 301 or 401 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall over-lap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn.

3.7.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 and 401 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. 1/

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.7.1.1.2 Repairs of type 401 stitching. Repairs of 401 stitching shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.1.1a and 3.7.1.1.1b except utilizing a 301 stitch type.

3.7.1.2 Type 406, 515 or 516 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.1.1 a and b. thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not less than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch.

3.7.1.3 Bartacks. Bartacks for belt loops shall be 7/8 (+ 1/32) inch in length and 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide and shall contain 30 stitches minimum. All other bartacks shall be 3/8 (+ 1/32) inch in length and 1/8 (+ 1/32) inch wide, and shall contain a minimum 28 stitches, unless otherwise noted. When counting the stitches in the bartack construction, the lay stitch shall be included.

Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.7.1.4 Sewn eyelets. The eyelets shall have a 3/16 to 1/4 inch diameter finished opening. The width of the bight of the stitching shall be no less than 1/16 inch. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four overlapping stitches, with the purling on the outside.

3.7.2 Seam sealing. Seams and stitching as indicated in Table VIII shall be sealed with sealing tape on the inside of the trouser. The entire width of the seam tape shall be uniformly sealed over the seam or stitching. All sealing tapes shall be applied and repaired in accordance with the sealing tape manufacturer temperature, time and pressure recommendations for application with heat sealing machine. The sealing tapes shall be applied with a minimum of 1/8 inch overlap on both sides of the sewn seam and the back of the basic material, adjacent to the seam tape, shall not be melted. All sealing tapes shall overlap a minimum of 3/4 inch at joining points and all ends of sealing tape or taped cross-over areas shall be spot sealed without additional repair tape.

As an alternate, spot sealing for taped ends can be eliminated if hot air machine can automatically cut and seal ends of sealing tape without any loose ends. However, spot sealing for taped cross-over areas shall remain. Sealed seams shall show no leakage, tape ends shall show no signs of lifting. When measured from the side edge of the tape toward the center, the top knit layer of the tape shall show no sign of curling, bubbling, or separating (membrane layer of tape is exposed ) greater than 1/8 inch. These conditions should not be exhibited when tested initially and after five laundering cycles as specified in 4.3.5.1.1.

3.7.2.1 Seam sealing repairs. Repair of the trouser by mending, patching, or darning shall not be permitted. Removal of the sealing tape shall not be permitted. A maximum of 5 repairs (no one repair to exceed five inches) totaling no more than 25 inches in length shall be allowed. Sealing tape may be used to repair leaking seams, missing yarns in the tricot knit, and to repair areas where the original tape does not overlap the sewn seams by a minimum of 1/8 inch on both sides of the tape.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table VIII. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished trousers are identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table VIII.

3.8.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the trousers shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the item. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the item and is covered by the seam allowance wherever possible.

1. Corrosive metal fastening devices

2. Sew-on shade tickets

3. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.8.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel manufacturing equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table VIII provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and that the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

TABLE VIII. Table of operations

NO. STITCH

TYPE

SEAM/STITCH

TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

1. Cutting and marking.

a. Cut the trousers in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show size, shape, directional lines, and notches for proper assembly of parts. The directional lines indicate the warp, unless otherwise specified. The directional lines may not vary from the warp direction by more than 2-1/2 inches on both fronts and backs.

Measurements shall be taken from top and bottom of directional lines on pattern to selvage edge of the fabric and the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 2-1/2 inches. Cut all parts of the trousers from one piece of material, except under side of leg opening windflap, suspender loops, seat and knee patches, cargo pockets and pocket facings.

b. Cut fastener tapes in lengths specified in 3.5.5.

c. Hot wire cut waist drawcords in the lengths specified in 3.5.4..

Note: As an alternate to hot wiring, drawcord ends may be dipped or impregnated with cellulose acetate or cellulose butyrate.

2. Replacement of damaged parts.

Care shall be exercised during the spreading, that material defects and damages, as specified in Table XI, are removed and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

TABLE VIII. Table of operations (continued)

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

3. Marking.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts to insure correct shade and size throughout the trouser. Markings shall not be visible on the outer shell of the trousers. Drill holes shall not be used.

4. Assemble ankle tabs.

a. Position hook fastener tape on face side of tab in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch hook and loop on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-13

b. Fold tab in half lengthwise and with face side out, fold under raw edges 3/8 inch. Stitch l/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edges.

or

EFn-2 10-13

-or-

c. Fold tab in half lengthwise with face sides together. Stitch sides 3/8 inch from edge.

or

SSe-2(a) 10-13

d. Turn tabs and force out corners and edges. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edges.

or

SSe-2(b) 10-13

5. Assemble leg opening windflap.

a. Align outer leg opening wind flap face side to back side of inner leg opening flap. Stitch together 1/4 inch from edges along sides and bottom.

or

SSe-2(a) 10-13

b. Turn leg opening wind flap, work out corners and top stitch 1/16 to l/8 inch from edges.

301 SSe-2(a) 10-13

6. Make pass-thru and cargo pocket flaps.

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

6.

cont

a. Position two loop fastener tapes on underside of pocket flap in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch around all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

LSbj-1

10-13

b. Fold flap in half (face sides together) and stitch 3/8 inch from side edges (including dart).

or

SSe-1(a) 10-13

c. Turn flap, work out edges and corners. Top stitch 1/8 to 1/4 inch from edges.

301 OSf-1/SSe-2 10-13

7. Assemble cargo pocket

a. Stitch eyelets in lower edge of cargo pocket in accordance with mark on pattern.

eyelet

16 (min)

b. Form pleats by folding cargo pocket in accordance with notches on pattern. Stitch l/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge of each pleat.

301 EFa-1 10-13

c. Position two hook fastener tapes on face of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch around all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

d. Stitch facing to top of cargo pocket catching pleats in stitching stitch 1/8 inch from facing edge.

SSa-1

8. Attach knee patches

a. With reinforcement material face side up fold under top and bottom raw edges of knee patch 1/2 inch and position in accordance with notches on face side of trousers.

b. Topstitch knee patch in place 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edges.

or

LSd-1 10-13

c. Pre-stitch knee patch along outseam side 1/8 inch from edge, the inseam edge of patch shall remain open.

or

SSa-1 10-13

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

9. Attach seat patch.

Position seat patches face side up on face of trouser backs in accordance with notches. Raw edges of patches shall be even with center back seam.

Pre-stitch side and top edges of patches to trouser 1/8 inch from edge. Turn under bottom edge of patches 1/2 inch, and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from fold.

SSa-1

10. Set pocket flaps and facings for pass thru pocket openings.

a. Position back side of pass thru facing on trouser face. Slash through trouser front and pocket facing as indicated by marks on pattern and tongue notch ends.

(Front pocket opening and facing may be slashed during cutting operations.) Align raw edges of trouser and facing along slash line, and stitch around opening 1/4 inch from raw edges.

301 SSa-1 10-13

b. Turn facing to inside of trousers.

Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edges and ends of opening

301 SSe-2(b) 10-13

c. Place raw edge of flap in accordance with pattern marks and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

Turn flap down toward pocket opening and stitch 1/4 to 5/16 inch from fold.

301 LSbk-(a) 10-13

d. Position two loop fastener tapes below finished pocket opening in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch around all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

11. Join side seams.

a. Place trouser front and trouser back face to face, and with the top of leg slide fastener opening even and raw edges in alignment, stitch side seam from top of side leg slide fastener opening to top of trouser catching seat patch in seam.

or

Ssa-1 10-13

b. Heat seal side seams.

12. Set cargo pockets and cargo pocket flaps.

a. Position cargo pocket on leg over side seam in accordance with marks on pattern. Turn under edges of pocket 3/8 inch and stitch to trouser 1/8 inch from folded edges.

301 SSb-1 10-13

b. Place a vertical bartack, at each side of the cargo pocket opening 1/8 to 3/16 inch from top edge of pocket (do not close bellow on the back edge of pocket), superimposing bartack on pocket stitching. Place a vertical bartack on the back edge of the cargo pocket, 1/8 to 3/16 inch from bottom corner of pocket, superimposing bartack on pocket stitching. Place horizontal bartack at the bottom of each inverted pleat.

Bartacks shall be centered over the pleat opening and superimposed on top of cargo pocket edge stitching.

3/8 inch bartack

21-28 per bartack

c. Position cargo pocket flap on trouser, as per marks on pattern.

Stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from raw edge of flap.

301 LSbk-(a) 10-13

d. Fold pocket flap down and top stitch 1/4 to 5/16 inch from folded edge.

301 LSbk-(a) 10-13

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

13. Attach leg opening flap/slide fastener.

a. Position closed slide fastener face up on face of leg opening flap. With raw edges of leg opening flap and slide fastener tape even, position ankle tab and pre-stitch all layers together 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10-13

b. Tongue notch top of leg opening.

Position face side of slide fastener/flap/tab assembly on face side of front leg opening and with raw edges even, stitch 1/4 inch from edge of leg opening.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-13

c. Position face side of slide fastener to face side of back leg opening.

With raw edge of back leg opening and slide fastener tape even, stitch 1/4 inch from edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-13

d. Topstitch slide fastener 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch from folded under edges on both sides of slide fastener and across notch, tacking ends.

301 LSq-2 10-13

14. Heat seal knee patches, leg opening wind flap, slide fastener seam, cargo pocket and cargo pocket flaps.

a. Heat seal knee patch across top and bottom.

b. Heat seal top of slide fastener seam. Seal the length of the slide fastener seam on the front leg slide fastener covering windflap and slide fastener covering windflap and slide fastener seam

c. Heat seal lower edge of seat patch stitching. The tape shall be cut and repositioned at each corner.

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

15. Assemble front fly.

a. With slide fastener closed and face up, position to right side of right front of trousers and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge of slide fastener tape, from top to bottom of slide fastener stop and tack ends.

301 SSa-1 10-13

b. Position left slide fastener tape to left front of trousers with right sides together and stitch 1/8 inch from tape edge and tack ends.

301 SSa-1 10-13

c. Position left and right trouser fronts with right sides together and crotch seam edge aligned. Stitch 1/4 inch from raw edge from inseam edge to 1/2 inch past curved edge tacking both ends. Turn to face side and with seam turned to the left side, edge stitch 1/8 inch from fold seam.

301 SSa-1 10-13

d. Fold the left front fly to the inside per marks on pattern and stitch through trousers and slide fastener and fly, from top to form “J” curve under slide fastener stop, tacking end.

301 SSb-1 10-13

e. Stitch the bottom of fly extension together with edges aligned for l-1/2 inch (max) at curve or to within no more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch above slider.

301 SSa-1 10-13

f. Place a 3/8-inch horizontal bartack across the right side of the zipper tape and bottom of “J” at 1/8 inch from tape fold.

3/8 inch bartack

21-28 per bartack

16. Close trousers and heat seal seams.

a. Align seat seam edges and join with a row of stitching 1/4 inch from edge.

or

LSb-1 10-13

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

cont

b. Align edges of inseam and close with a row of stitching 1/4 inch from edge. Crotch and seat seams shall not be staggered more than 1/4 inch (measurement taken from center of seams.)

or

SSa-1 10-13

c. Lay all seam sealing tape on inside of trousers, completely covering seam or stitching and heat seal. The inseam may lie towards either side of the trousers. The center back seam shall lie on same side of trousers as crotch seam.

d. Starting at top edge of trouser back, heat seal seat and crotch seam to bottom of front fly.

e. Starting at bottom of leg, heat seal inseam to crotch. Repeat on opposite leg. As an alternate, heat seal seam from bottom of leg to crotch, and continue down inseam of opposite leg.

f. Spot seal crotch.

17. Hem waist.

a. Position eyelet reinforcement on inside of right side (as worn) waistband. Stitch a 3/16 to 1/4 inch eyelet through reinforcement piece and trousers. The eyelet shall be centered on the reinforcement piece.

Thread end of drawcord through eyelet.

eyelet 19 (min)

b. Overedge top raw edge of trousers. 515 or

SSa-2 10-13

c. Turn top of trousers over drawcord and stitch 3/16 to l/4 inch from edge, catching the combination label (left of seat seam). Attach barrel locks and knot drawcord ends. NOTE: The drawcord shall not be caught in the waist stitching.

301 EFt-1 10-13

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

18. Set snap.

a. Set cap on outside of left front waist in center of fly.

b. Set on stud on right waist to match the cap.

19. Make and attach belt and suspender loops.

a. Make belt and suspender loops (basic material) by folding stripping with the edges abutted at center.

Stitch with two rows of stitching with each row of stitching not less than 3/8 inch from edge for belt loops and 1/8 inch from edge for suspender loops. The covering stitch shall finish on the underside. The finished loop stripping shall measure 1 inch wide for belt loops, suspender loops shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide.

406 EFh-1 10-13

b. Fold the raw edges of the suspender loops under 3/8 inches.

Position one suspender loop on the inside of the left trouser front with the folded edge 3-1/2 (± 1/4) inches from finished edge of the left fly. Position one suspender loop on the inside of the right trouser front with the folded edge 5-1/4 (± 1/4) inches from the raw edge of the right fly. Both suspender loops should be positioned with the top edge of the loop 3/4 (± 1/8) inches from the top of the waistband. Bartack the suspender loops in place with a vertical bartack 1/8 inch from each folded end. The suspender loop openings shall finish 5-1/4 (+ 1/8) inches in length between bartacks.

Bartacks should not interfere with waistband drawcord.

3/8 inch bartack

21-28 per bartack

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

19.

cont

c. Fold ends of belt loops under 3/8 inch and position the top edge of the folded belt loop to align with the top of the waistband.

Bartack belt loop in place with a horizontal bartack 1/8 inch from each folded end. Top bartack should not interfere with the operation of the drawcord. Belt loop openings shall finish 2-5/8 to 2-7/8 inches between bartacks.

All belt loops shall be placed in accordance with paragraph 3.3.1

7/8 inch bartack

42-46 per bartack

20. Hem trouser and attach loop fastener tape

a. Turn under bottom edge of leg 1/4 inch and fold up hem in accordance with notch. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from fold.

301 EFb-1 10-13

b. Position loop fastener tape on bottom of leg back in alignment with ankle tab hook tape. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-13

21.

Attach Slide Fastener Thong.

Attach nylon tape to slide fastener by feeding through the slider pull of the fastener and knotting both ends together or securing with a 3/8 inch vertical bartack.

The thong shall finish between 2 to 2-1/2 inches in length.

OR

Make stripping for the thong using basic material, printed side up, by folding stripping with the edges abutted at center and stitch with each row of stitching not less than 1/16 inch from edge and covering stitch on the underside. The finished stripping shall measure

3/8 inch

EFh-1

SEAM/STITC

H TYPE

STITCH PER

INCH

21.

cont

5/16 to 3/8 inch wide. The fabric strip shall be attached in the same manner as nylon tape except that it must be attached with a vertical bartack.

3/8 inch

22. Exam, trim thread ends and remove any spots.

3.9 Finished measurements. The measurements of the trousers shall conform to the requirements specified in Table IX.

TABLE IX. Finished measurements (inches)

Point of Measure 1/2 Waist

(A) Inseam

(B) Outseam

(C) Size Length Tol: ± 1/2 Tol: ± 3/4 Tol: ± 3/4 X-Small

X-Short Short

Regular Long

X-Long

26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2

36-1/2 38-1/2 40-1/2

Small

Regular Long

X-Long

26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2

36-1/2 38-1/2

Medium

Regular Long

X-Long

26-1/2 28-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2

36-1/2

Large

Regular

Long X-Long

28-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2

X-Large

Regular

Long X-Long

28-1/2 30-1/2 32-1/2 34-1/2

XX-Large

Long X-Long

32-1/2 34-1/2

3.9.1 Point of Measure. The trousers shall have the center front fly closed, the center snap fastened, and the ankle adjustment tab hook and lower leg loop shall be fastened and placed flat upon a table and measured as follows:

A. 1/2 Waist. Measure along waist elastic drawcord tunnel from folded edge to folded edge.

B. Inseam. Measure along inseam of trousers from crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser leg hem.

C. Outseam. Measure from top edge of waist to bottom of leg along outseam.

3.10 Disposal of rejected garments. All scraps, seconds, irregulars, extra material, and garments containing the aforementioned intellectual property / trademarks, which are not utilized for government contracts or a purpose authorized in writing by the Government, shall be destroyed and not sold or transferred in any manner. This restriction applies to the prime contractor, as well as all subcontractors, and shall be incorporated into all agreements with subcontractors

3.11 Toxicity. The trousers shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.3.6. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.2).

3.12 Workmanship. The finished trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected as specified in 4.3.3, 4.3.4, and 4.3.5 for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements, and tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the inspection and testing specified in 4.3.1 through 4.3.6. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 except where otherwise indicated. Requests for use of equivalent items shall be accompanied with test results and submitted to the procuring agency.

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable procurement documents.

4.3.1.1 Component testing. The components specified in Table X shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Table X in accordance with the test method cited.

TABLE X. Component testing.

Material Characteristic Reference Test Method Reinforcement 3.4.2

Material Weight ASTM D3776, Opt. C Breaking Strength ASTM D5034 Colorfastness to:

Crocking AAATC 8 1/ Laundering AATCC 135, Test 1A

2/, 3/ Light (after 75 kj) AATCC 16, Opt 3 2/ Perspiration AATCC 15

Spray Rating: 4/ Initial AAATCC 22 After one laundering AATCC 22 and 135

Stiffness TAPPI Method 451 5/ Puncture Propagation of Tear ASTM D2582 6/ Resistance to organic liquid AATCC 118 7/ Resistance to frosting AATCC 119 13/ Dimensional stability AATCC 135 VAii Abrasion resistance ASTM D3884

Three-layer knit 3.4.4 Laminate Weight ASTM D3776, Opt. C

Stiffness TAPPI Method 451 5/ Hydrostatic Resistance:

Initial (taffeta restraint) ASTM D751 8/ After deet (taffeta restraint) ASTM D751 8/ Tear resistance (PPT) ASTM D2582 6/ Water permeability:

Initial 9/ After synthetic perspiration 9/ ,10/ Moisture vapor transmission ISO 15496 11/ Physical surface appearance 12/, 3/ Drawcord Breaking Strength 3.5.4 ASTM 5034 Slide fastener, polyurethane coating

Thickness 3.5.6 ASTM D1005

Barrel locks 3.5.8 Pull test Paragraph 4.3.5.3 Infrared reflectance Paragraph 4.3.5.4

1/ Colorfastness to crocking.