NCTRF PD 04-09C Parka Working.pdf

NCTRF PD 04-09C

20 January 2012

SUPERSEDING

NCTRF PD 04-09B

17 September 2010

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

PARKA, WORKING, US NAVY, DESERT AND WOODLAND

This purchase description is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research

Facility, Department of the Navy.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for the US Navy working uniform parka in desert and woodland camouflage.

1.2 Classification. The parka is available in the following types, and sizes.

Type I – See 6.7

Type II– Desert camouflage NWU II

Type III – Woodland camouflage NWU III

Schedule of sizes

X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large

-- XX-Short XX-Short -- -- --

X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short -- --

Short Short Short Short Short --

Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long Long Long Long Long Long

-- X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long

-- XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

-- XXX-Long XXX-Long XXX-Long XXX-Long XXX-Long

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT:

This notice is to advise you that the Government possesses intellectual property / trademark rights in the following Navy patterns and logos: Desert and Woodland digitized pattern; and the anchor / Constitution / eagle (ACE) logo (hereafter collectively referred to as “intellectual property”). The Government claims exclusive ownership of the above-mentioned intellectual property. Therefore, no entity other than the Government, or those contracted by or having obtained proper permission or licenses from the Government to do so, are permitted to produce, sell, or transfer in any manner any items (clothing or non-clothing) containing or copying, in whole or in part, the intellectual property. Doing so will be considered an infringement on the

Government’s intellectual property rights and will be subject to legal action.

NCTRF CAGE CODE: 32263

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

FED-STD-595/20150 Brown, Semi gloss

FED-STD-595/20180 Brown, Semi gloss

FED-STD-595/23430 Yellow, Semi gloss

FED-STD-595/34094 Green, Pigment

COMMERICAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

A-A-52110 Cloth, Plain Weave, Polyester/Cotton for Pockets (Water Repellent)

A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic

A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-43701 Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester

MIL-DTL-10884 Fasteners, Snap

MIL-DTL-32072 Thread, Polyester

MIL-DTL-32075 Label For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

MIL-PRF-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon

MIL-T-3530 Thread and Twine: Mildew Resistant Or Water Repellent Treated

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil or from the

Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA

19111-5094.)

2.2.2. Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent http://assist.daps.dla.mil/ specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 05-09 Liner, Working, US Navy, Coyote

NCTRF PD 06-11 Cloth, Waterproof and Moisture Vapor Permeable

(Copies of these documents are available from the procuring activity.)

SPECIAL OPERATIONS FORCES SURVIVAL, SUPPORT AND EQUIPMENT SYSTEMS

PM-SOF SSES SPEC 07-11 Camouflage Print Performance Specification For AOR 1, AOR 2, NWU II and NWU III

(Copies of this document is available from U. S Army, Research, Development and Engineering

Command, PM-Special Operations Forces Survival, Support and Equipment Systems, Kansas

Street, BLDG 4, Natick, MA 01760). (See 6.3)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILES CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Evaluation Procedures

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, Nine Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating

AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Differences of Textiles

Test Methods

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking; AATCC Crockmeter Method

AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light

AATCC 22 Water Repellency: Spray Test

AATCC 118 Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test

AATCC 119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting)

AATCC 127 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test

AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or AATCC, P.O. Box

12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.)

http://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or American Society for

Quality, P.O. Box 3005,Milwaukee, WI 53201-3005 or 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D 751 Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics

ASTM D1005 Standard Test Method for Measurement of Dry-Film

Thickness of Organic Coatings Using Micrometers

ASTM D1776 Standard Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing

ASTM D2582 Standard Test Method of Puncture Propagation Tear Resistance of

Plastic Film and Thin Sheeting

ASTM D3776 Standard Test Method Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Woven

Fabric

ASTM D3884 Standard Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength of Textile Fabrics

ASTM D6193 Standard Practices for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available on line at http://www.astm.org or from ASTM

International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition),A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 - 1060, 2001.

(Copies of this publication are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from

Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

TECHNICAL ASSOCIATION OF THE PULP AND PAPER INDUSTRY (TAPPI)

TAPPI Method 451 Stiffness of Paperboard (Clark Stiffness Method)

(Applications for copies of the referenced document is available via http://www.tappi.org or should be addressed to TAPPI Press, Technology Park/Atlanta, P.O. Box 105113, Atlanta, GA

30348-5113.)

INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATION FOR STANDARDIZATION

ISO 15496 Measurement of Water Vapour Permeability of Textiles for the Purpose of

Quality Control http://www.ansi.org/ http://www.astm.org/ http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ http://www.tappi.org/

(Copies of this document is available on-line at http://www.iso.org or from International

Organization for Standardization (ISO), 1, Rue de Varembre, Case Postale, 56 CH 1211 Geneva

20, Switzerland)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence.

Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The parka shall have a collar with a drawcord for adjustment and a stowed hood with visor, water resistant slide fastener front closure and underarm openings. The parka shall have two upper chest pockets with concealed water resistant slide fastener openings, two lower pockets with flaps and concealed hand warmer pockets, adjustable wrist tabs, a rank tab, and waist and hem drawcord adjustments that are concealed inside the lower pockets. A hanger loop shall be located on the top edge of the collar. The parka shall have an interoperable inside front slide fastener which shall interface with NCTRF PD 05-09 liner. The parka shall also have snap attachment assembly tab located at the inside bottom of each sleeve as indicated on the pattern

(see Figure 2). The drawcords shall be anchored except for the waist adjustment drawcords.

3.3.1 Figures. Figures 2, 3, and 4 are applicable. Figure 1 shall be for reference only. When inconsistencies between the written purchase description and the figures, the written purchase description shall govern.

3.4 Materials. The materials shall conform to applicable specifications, standards, and drawings required herein.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the parka shall be a laminated, waterproof and moisture vapor permeable cloth composed of a Polytetrafluoroethylene membrane faced with nylon and a knit backing material, in accordance with NCTRF PD 06-11 as follows.

Parka type Cloth type

Type II Type II, NWU II, desert digital w/ACE logo

Type III Type III, NWU III, woodland digital w/ ACE logo

3.4.2 Reinforcement material. The reinforcement cloth used in the elbow patches shall be camouflage printed nylon, water repellent treated, and conform to the requirements stated in

Table I when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1. The cloth for the Type II parka shall be NWU II http://www.iso.org/ desert camouflage print and the cloth for the Type III parka shall be NWU III woodland camouflage print, in accordance with PM-SOF SSESS SPEC 07-11 except the authorized testing facility shall be the DLA Product Testing Center – Analytical (see 6.8).

TABLE I. Reinforcement material requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz/sq. yd 4.0 to 6.0

Breaking strength (minimum lbs)

Warp 200

Fill 155

Colorfastness to:

Crocking, dry and wet

All colors except black 519 3.5 (minimum)

Black 519 1.5 (minimum)

Laundering, All colors except black 519 3-4

Black 519 2-3

Light, all colors 3-4

Perspiration, all colors

(Alkaline/Acid) Grade 3 (minimum)

Spray rating (minimum)

Initial 100, 100, 90

After 1 Laundering 90, 90, 80

Stiffness (cm), maximum

Warp 11.0

Filling 11.0

Puncture propagation of tear, kgf (avg)

Warp 7 .0

Filling 6.0

Resistance to organic liquid No wetting by N-Tetradecane

Resistance to frosting (minimum) 3.0

Dimensional stability (maximum)

Warp 4.0%

Fill 4.0%

Abrasion resistance 800 cycles (min) – no visible abrasión

3.4.3 Standard sample. The basic material (3.4.1) and the reinforcement material (3.4.2) shall match the perspective standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Visual shade matching and spectral reflectance requirement shall be in accordance with PM-SOF SSES SPEC 07-11 except the authorized testing facility shall be the DLA Product Testing Center -Analytical (see 6.8) and the materials shall match the standard sample.

3.4.4 Chest pocket material. The cloth for the chest pockets shall conform to A-A-52110 except that the color shall be as specified in Table III.

3.4.5 Three-layer knit laminate. The cloth for the inside collar, hood tunnel, throat tab, inside slide fastener facings and lower pocket back shall be a three-layer knit laminate conforming to the requirements in Table II when tested in accordance with paragraph 4.3.1.1.

TABLE II. Three-layer knit laminate requirements.

Characteristic Requirement

Weight, oz./sq. yd. 4.0 (±0.4)

Stiffness, cm (max) 8.0

Hydrostatic Resistance, psi (min)

Initial taffeta restraint 220

After deet (diethylotoluamide) 120

Puncture Propagation Tear, kgf (min) (avg)

Warp 3.5

Fill 3.5

Water permeability

Initial No leakage

After synthetic perspiration No leakage

Moisture Vapor Transmission Rate

(gm./sq. m/24 hours) (minimum) 6000

Physical surface appearance after laundering No change after 5 launderings when compared to unlaundered

3.4.6 Cloth, buckram. The interlining for the attached hood visor and chest pocket welt shall be cotton buckram cloth, natural or bleached, conforming to Type I of A-A-50186, except that the minimum breaking strength in the warp direction shall be 60 lbs.

3.5 Components. The parka components shall conform to applicable specifications and standards required herein. (See 4.3)

3.5.1 Component colors. The color of the components for the parka shall be a good match to the color chip numbers specified in Table III and accordance with FED-STD-595.

TABLE III. Component color.

Component/Materials Color Chip

Number

Reference

Paragraph

Chest pocket material 20180 3.4.4

Three-layer knit laminate 23430 3.4.5

Reinforcement tape 23430 3.5.3

Nylon tape 20180 3.5.5

Braided drawcord 20180 3.5.6

Fastener tape, hook and loop 3.5.7

Type II-Desert 20180

Type III-Woodland 34094

Slide Fasteners 20150 3.5.8

Slide fastener thong, alternate 20180 3.5.9

Barrel lock 20180 3.5.10

Thread 3.5.11

Type II-Desert 20180

Type III – Woodland 34094

3.5.2 Sealing tape. The seam sealing tape shall be in accordance with W.L. Gore Part

#6GTAJ013KHKN, #6GTAJ025KHKN, #6GTAJ050KHKN, or equal. The sealing tape shall be used to cover and seal all designated seams and stitching in accordance with paragraphs 3.7.2 and 3.8. The sealing tape shall be 1/2 (±1/32) inch wide for the inside slide fastener facing. The sealing tape shall be 1 (±1/16) inch wide for all other required seams. An alternate, for pocket flaps, hook and loop fastener tapes and the top and bottom of the sleeve pockets, 2 (±1/16) inch wide tapes may be used. (see 6.4.1)

3.5.3 Reinforcement tape. The nylon reinforcement tape shall be in accordance with W.L. Gore part # 6GSAJ025TAN or equal. The reinforcement tape shall not to be used in place of sealing tape (3.5.2) to seal stitched seams. ( see 6.4.1).

3.5.4 Non-wicking buffer. The non-wicking buffer shall be in accordance with W.L. Gore Part

#5RPAD051NAT or equal. The tape is a polyurethane adhesive, 2 (±1/4) inches in width and a minimum of 4.5 ml thick and shall be applied to the sleeve hems and parka hem across all seams.

(see 6.4.1)

3.5.5 Nylon tape. The nylon tape for the hood drawcord and the snap attachment assembly tabs shall be flat, l/2 inch wide, conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038. The nylon tape for the hanger loop and barrel lock anchors inside lower front pocket shall be flat, 3/8-inch wide, conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038. The nylon tape lengths shall be in accordance with

Table IV. (see 6.4.2)

TABLE IV. Nylon tape lengths (inches).

Size

Hood drawcords

(cut length)

Hanger tape

(finished length)

Barrel lock anchors

(inside lower pockets) cut length

Liner attachment assembly tabs ( cut length)

All 36 2 4-1/2 5-1/4

Tolerance ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

3.5.6 Drawcords. The collar, waist, and hem drawcords shall be 3/16 inch in diameter multi-strand rubber elastic with braided nylon or polyester covering, conforming to Type II of

MIL-C-43701. As an alternate, the drawcords shall be a 3/16 (±1/32) inches in diameter, non-elastic polyester cord with a minimum tensile strength of 200 pounds when tested as specified in

4.3.1.1. The cut lengths for the drawcords shall be as specified in Table V. (see 6.4.2)

TABLE V. Cut lengths of drawcords (inches).

Size Collar Waist Hem

X-Small 30 41-1/2 48

Small 31 45-1/2 52

Medium 31 49-1/2 56

Large 32 53-1/2 60

X-Large 32 57-1/2 64

XX-Large 34 59-1/2 68

Tolerance ±1 ±1 ±1

3.5.7 Fastener tapes, hook and loop. The hook fastener tape shall conform to Type II of

A-A-55126. The hook and loop fastener tapes shall conform to class 1 or 4 of A-A-55126. All corners of the hook and loop fastener tapes shall be trimmed to provide rounded corners. The widths and lengths shall be as specified in Table VI. (see 6.4.3)

TABLE VI. Hook and loop lengths (inches).

Location Quantity per

Parka

Length x Width

Hook Loop

Outer collar 3 - 1 x 2

Hood 3 1 x 2 -

Insignia tab 1 1 x 1 -

Parka (left front) 1 - 1 x 1

Sleeve 2 - 1-1/2 x 5-1/4

Sleeve tab 2 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 -

Sleeve pocket flap 4 - 1-1/2 x 1

Sleeve pocket 4 1-1/2 x 1 -

Lower pocket flap 4 - 1 x 2

Lower pocket 4 1 x 2 -

Tolerance -- ±1/4 ±1/4

3.5.8 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners components shall conform to

A-A-55634 as specified in 3.5.8.1, 3.5.8.2, and 3.5.8.3 (see 6.4.4).

3.5.8.1 Front closure slide fastener. The front closure slide fastener shall conform to

A-A-55634, Type III, style 8, size 8, continuous element polyester monofilament coil, equipped with a single long tab pull, automatic locking reverse bale slider with a hole large enough to accommodate a 3/8 inch thong. The tape side of the fastener tape shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick when tested per 4.3.1.1. The finished front closure slide fastener lengths shall be as specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII. Front closure slide fastener lengths (inches).

XX-Short -- 25-1/2 26 -- -- --

X-Short 26 26-1/2 27 27-1/2 -- --

Short 27 27-1/2 28 28-1/2 29 --

Regular 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31

Long 30 30-1/2 31 31-1/2 32 32-1/2

X-Long -- 32 32-1/2 33 33-1/2 34

XX-Long -- 33-1/2 34 34-1/2 35 35-1/2

XXX-Long -- 35 35-1/2 36 36-1/2 37

3.5.8.2 Underarm and upper pocket slide fasteners. The underarm and upper pocket slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, Type I, style 7, size 5, continuous element polyester monofilament coil equipped with a single reverse bale slider. The tape side of the fastener chain shall be coated with a polyurethane coating not less than 2.5 mils thick when tested per 4.3.1.1.

The underarm slide fastener length shall be 15 (±1/8) inches and be equipped with a non-locking, short tab pull slider. The slider shall have a hole large enough to accommodate a 3/8 inch wide thong. The upper pocket slide fastener length shall be 9 (±1/8) inches and be equipped with a short tab pull, automatic locking slider.

3.5.8.3 Inside slide fastener. The inside slide fastener for the liner attachment shall be in accordance with YKK style #0069665. The slide fastener shall be interoperable with the fleece liner when tested as specified in 4.3.5.3 The lengths for the inside slide fastener shall be as specified in Table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Lengths for inside slide fastener (inches).

XX-Short -- 24 24-1/2 -- -- --

X-Short 24-1/2 25 25-1/2 26 -- --

Short 25-1/2 26 26-1/2 27 27-1/2 --

Regular 27 27-1/2 28 28-1/2 29 29-1/2

Long 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31

TABLE VIII. Lengths for inside slide fastener (inches) – Continued.

X-Long -- 30-1/2 31 31-1/2 32 32-1/2

XX-Long -- 32 32-1/2 33 33-1/2 34

XXX-Long -- 33-1/2 34 34-1/2 35 35-1/2

3.5.9 Slide fastener thongs. The slide fastener thongs for the front closure, underarms, and chest pockets shall be a flat nylon tape, 3/8 inch wide, conforming to Type III of MIL-PRF-5038. As an alternate, the slide fastener thongs shall be made from the basic material.

3.5.10 Barrel lock. The barrel lock for the collar, hood, and waist and hem drawcords shall be a1/2-inch x 3/8-inch toaster elliptical shape with a push-button, and have a 3-pound minimum holding strength on the nylon tape (3.5.5) or drawcord (3.5.6) at –40°F, 70°F and 140°F when tested in accordance with 4.3.5.4 and meet the infrared reflectance requirements in Table IX when tested as specified in 4.3.5.5. Barrel locks known to meet these requirements are ITW

NEXUS part #350-6000-5674(w/self purging drain hole), ITW NEXUS part #350-2000-5674, or

YKK's Cord Lock #69150 LC05SHDM GOV CORD STOPPER. (See 6.4.5)

TABLE IX. Barrel lock infrared spectral reflectance requirements.

Wavelengths

(nanometers) Minimum Maximum

600 16 26

620 18 26

640 20 30

660 22 34

680 26 38

700 30 40

720 32 46

740 36 50

760 36 54

780 38 58

800 40 59

820 42 60

840 44 60

860 48 60

3.5.11 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester conforming to Type I, class 1, subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072, Tex size 36-45, 2 or 3 ply. As an alternate, polyester core thread conforming to Type I of A-A-50199, Tex size 36-45, 2 or 3 ply may be used. All thread shall be water-repellent treated in accordance with Type II, class 3 of MIL-T-3530 except for the thread used in the assembly of the chest pockets. All visible thread shall be the same shade.

3.5.12 Fasteners, snap. The snap fastener shall be style 2A, finish 2 (black), male and female complete, consisting of stud and eyelet (size 1 or 2), button and socket, conforming to MIL-

DTL-10884 with the exception that the socket shall be YKK “Easy Action” or equal. All components of the snap fastener shall be from the same supplier. (see 6.4.6)

3.5.13 Labels. Each parka shall have a combination personal identification and information label, and a size label.

3.5.13.1 Combination personal identification and information label. Each parka shall have a combination label conforming to Type VI, classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 except omit the words “Service Number” and replace with a drawn line with no information. The label shall be attached to the wearer’s right inside chest pocket positioned against the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges. All of the printing shall be legible throughout the expected life of the parka. The color of the label shall be white or neutral. The printing shall show fastness to laundering and shall bear the following inscription:

NAME:

PARKA, WORKING, US NAVY Type II/III (as applicable)

100% NYLON SHELL, PTFE LAMINATE

CONTRACT NO: SPM1C100-00-C-0000 (EXAMPLE)

NAME OF CONTRACTOR:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR):

DATE OF MANUFACTURE (MM/YY):

LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:

WARNING!!

DO NOT STARCH, BLEACH, DRY CLEAN OR PRESS THE PARKA

DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS

Home Laundering (Machine/Hand):

Use a Permanent Press or Normal Cotton Machine Setting or

Hand Wash Using a Mild Detergent. Rinse Thoroughly in Warm Water.

NOTE: Any Residual Detergent on The Parka Will Decrease The Water Repellency.

Home Drying:

Tumble Dry on Permanent Press or Cotton Setting, Remove Immediately From Dryer.

Do not drip dry.

or

Shipboard Laundry:

Parka Shall be Laundered Utilizing “Shipboard Formula III"

Shipboard Drying:

Tumble Dry at Low Temperature Setting. Remove Immediately From Dryer. Do Not Overheat or Over Dry. For Restoration of Water Repellent Finish, Dry at a Temperature

Not to Exceed 150 o F. Do not drip dry.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

3.5.13.2 Size label. Each parka shall have a size label, with the height and chest measurements and NSN, conforming to Type VI, class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall be attached on the wearer’s right inside chest pocket. The inscription shall be as stated below. There shall be no abbreviations for size and length except for “X” , “XX,” and “XXX” in lieu of extra , extra-extra and extra-extra,-extra. The size label may be combined with the combination personal/identification/care instructions label.

Medium X-Short (Example)

Height: Up to 63 in.

Chest From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Size label list.

X-Small X-Short

Height: From 59 to 63 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Short

Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Regular

Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Small Long

Height: From 71 in. to 75 in.

Chest: Up to 33 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small XX-Short

Height: From 55 to 59 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small X-Short

Height: From 59 to 63 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Small Short

Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small Regular

Height: From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small Long

Height: From 71to 75 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Small X-long

Height: From 75 to 79 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small XX-Long

Height: Over 79 to 83 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Small XXX-Long

Height: Over 83 in.

Chest: From 33 to 37 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium XX-Short

Height: From 55 to 59 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium X-Short

Height: From 59 to 63 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium-Short

Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Regular

Height: From 67 to 71 in

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium Long

Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium X-Long

Height: From 75 to 79 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium XX-Long

Height: 79 to 83 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Medium XXX-Long

Height: Over 83 in.

Chest: From 37 to 41 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large X-Short

Height: From 59 to 63 in.

Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Size label list – Continued.

Large Short

Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: From 41 in. to 45 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Regular

Height: From 67 in. to 71 in.

Chest: From 41 in. to 45 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large Long

Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: Over 41 to 45 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

Large X-Long

Height: From 75 to 79 in.

Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large XX-Long

Height: 79 to 83 in.

Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

Large XXX-Long

Height: Over 83 in.

Chest: From 41 to 45 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Short

Height: From 63 to 67 in.

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Regular

Height From 67to 71 in.

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large Long

Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest; From 45 – 49 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

X-Large X-Long

Height: From 75 to 79 in.

Chest; From 45 – 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

X-large XX-Long

Height: 79 to 83 in.

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

NSN: 8415- X-XXX-XXXX

X-large XXX-Long

Height: over 83 in.

Chest: From 45 to 49 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large Regular

Height From 67 to 71 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large Long

Height: From 71 to 75 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large XLong

Height: From 75 to 79 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

NSN: 8415-XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large XX-Long

Height: From 79 to 83 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

XX-Large XXX-Long

Height: over 83 in.

Chest: Over 49 in.

NSN: 8415- XX-XXX-XXXX

3.5.13.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper used for the tags shall be a standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds with a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and be attached on the center front slider thong to each item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a twelve digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all

NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for

NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The parka label/tag shall be attached to the slide fastener pull tab of the front closure.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns, which provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all sealed seams, waistband cord casing, and rank tab, and 3/8 inch for all other seams, will be furnished by the

Government. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the

Government patterns except minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment. However, the design and finished measurements shall be maintained. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensions or appearance requirements.

3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern part list. The inside slide fastener facing and eyelet reinforcement pieces do not have pattern parts.

Pattern part list.

Material Piece Name Nomenclature Cut

Parts

Basic material (3.4.1) PD0409-CENTR_FRONT Center front 2

PD0409-CT_FT_PK_EX Center front pocket extension 2

PD0409-UND_PKT_EXT Upper pocket extension 2

PD0409-UPPER_BACK Upper back 1

PD0409-LOWER_BACK Lower back 1

PD0409-UPPER_FRONT Upper front 2

PD0409-LOWER_FRONT Lower front 2

PD0409-POCKET_FLAP Lower pocket flap 2

PD0409-LOWER_POCKT Lower pocket 1

PD0409-RANK_TB Rank tab 1

PD0409-HOOD Hood 2

PD0409-UPPR_SLEEVE Upper sleeve 2

PD0409-LOWR_SLEEVE Lower sleeve 2

PD0409-SLEEV_POCKT Sleeve pocket 2

PD0409-SLV_PKT_FLP Sleeve pocket flap 2

PD0409-LFT_PEN_PKT Left pencil pocket 1

PD0409-SLEEVE_TAB Sleeve tab 2

PD0409-VISOR Visor 1

PD0409-OUTSID_CLLR Outside collar 1

PD0409-WST_CRD_C Waist cord casing 1

Reinforcement material

(3.4.2)

PD0409-ELBOW_PATCH Elbow patch 2

Chest pocket material

(3.4.4)

PD0409-CHEST_POCKT Chest pocket 4

Cloth, buckram (3.4.6) PD0409-VISOR_INT Visor interlining 1

PD0409-CHS_PKT_WLT Chest pocket welt 2

Three-layer knit laminate

PD0409-FLEECE_FLAP Fleece slide fastener facing 2

(3.4.5) PD0409-INSIDE_CLLR Inside collar 1/ 1

PD0409-HOOD_TUNNEL Hood tunnel 1

PD0409-THROAT_TAB Throat tab 2

PD0409-LWR_PKT_BCK Lower pocket back 2

Templates PD0409-PKT_FLAP_TMP Lower pocket flap template 0

PD0409-SLV_PKT_TMP Sleeve pocket template 0

PD0409-PK_FLP_TMP Sleeve pocket flap template 0

1/ As an alternate, basic material (3.4.1) may be used.

3.7 Construction. The construction shall conform to all the constructional requirements specified in Table X and herein.

3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. All stitches, seams and stitching shall conform to

ASTM D6193. The seam types, stitching types, and stitches per inch shall be as specified in

Table X. Seam construction shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur. When two or more methods of seams or stitches are given for the same operation, any one may be used.

3.7.1.1 Type 301or 401 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All 301 stitch and backtack thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.7.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching. When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.7.1.1.2 Repairs of type 401 stitching. Repairs of 401 stitching shall be in accordance with

3.7.1.1.1.a and 3.7.1.1.1.b except utilizing a 301 stitch type.

3.7.1.2 Type 502, 503, 515 or 516 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.1.1. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length not less than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch.

3.7.1.3 Bartacks and backtacks. Unless otherwise specified in Table X, all bartacks shall be 3/8

(±1/32) inch in length, 1/8 (±1/32) inch wide, and shall contain 21 to 28 stitches. The 5/8 inch bartacks shall be 5/8 (±1/32) inch in length, 1/8 (±1/32) inch wide, and shall contain 35 to 46 stitches. When counting the stitches in the bartack construction, the lay stitch shall be included.

All backtacks shall be 5/8 (±1/32) inch in length and shall be formed with 10-13 stitches per inch. Bartacks and backtacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.7.1.4 Sewn eyelets. All eyelets shall be 3/16 inch (+1/16, -0) in inside diameter with a minimum of 19 stitches per eyelet. Eyelet stitching shall have at least four overlapping stitches, with purling on the outside.

3.7.2 Seam sealing. Seams and stitching as indicated in Table X shall be sealed with sealing tape on the inside of the parka and concealed hood. The entire width of the seam tape shall be uniformly sealed over the seam or stitching. All sealing tapes shall be applied and repaired in accordance with the sealing tape manufacturer temperature, time and pressure recommendations for application with heat sealing machine. The sealing tapes shall be applied with a minimum of

1/8 inch overlap on both sides of the sewn seam and the back of the basic material, adjacent to the seam tape, shall not be melted. All sealing tapes shall overlap a minimum of 3/4 inch at joining points and all ends of sealing tape or taped cross-over areas shall be spot sealed without additional repair tape. As an alternate, spot sealing for taped ends can be eliminated if hot air machine can automatically cut and seal ends of sealing tape without any loose ends. However, spot sealing for taped cross-over areas shall remain. Sealed seams shall show no leakage, tape ends shall show no signs of lifting. When measured from the side edge of the tape toward the center, the top knit layer of the tape shall show no sign of curling, bubbling, or separating

(membrane layer of tape is exposed ) greater than 1/8 inch. These conditions should not be exhibited when tested initially and after five laundering cycles as specified in 4.3.5.2.2.

3.7.2.1 Seam sealing repairs. Repair of the parka by mending, patching, or darning shall not be permitted. Removal of the sealing tape shall not permitted. A maximum of 5 repairs (no one repair to exceed five inches) totaling no more than 25 inches in length shall be allowed. Only one additional layer of sealing tape is allowed to repair any given area, with the exception of the backside area of the sleeve pocket. Sealing tape may be used to repair leaking seams, missing yarns in the tricot knit, and to repair areas where the original tape does not overlap the sewn seams by a minimum of 1/8 inch on both sides of the tape.

3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The parka shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table X. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished parka is identical to that produced by following the sequence as listed in Table X.

3.8.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the parkas shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the item. Any method may be used except those listed below. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the item and is covered by the seam allowance wherever possible.

1. Corrosive metal fastening devices

2. Sew-on shade tickets

3. Adhesive-type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets.

3.8.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel manufacturing equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table X provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and that the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

TABLE X. Manufacturing Operation Requirements.

NO. OPERATION

STITCH

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

1.

Cutting and marking.

a. Cut the parka in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show directional lines, size, placement for pockets and welt, hook and loop fastener tapes, and marks for proper assembly. The directional lines indicate the warp direction, unless otherwise specified. The directional lines may vary from the warp direction by not more than 2-1/2 inches on both front and back. Measurements shall be taken from top and bottom of directional lines on pattern to selvage edge of the fabric and the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 2-1/2 inches. All shell parts shall be cut out of one piece of material except the inside slide fastener facing, pencil pocket, hood tunnel, visor and inside collar. Unless alternate tape is used, slide fastener thongs shall be cut from the basic material.

b. Cut drawcords, nylon tape, and hook and loop fastener tapes lengths in accordance with the tables specified in paragraphs 3.5.5, 3.5.6 and 3.5.7.

The drawcord ends shall be hot wire cut to eliminate fraying or as an alternate, drawcord ends may be dipped or impregnated with cellulose acetate or cellulose butyrate .

c. Three eyelet reinforcement pieces shall be cut 1/2 inch wide by 1 or 2 inches long from scraps of the basic material.

TABLE X. Manufacturing Operation Requirements. – Continued.

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

2. Replace damaged parts.

a. Care shall be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that cloth defects and damages, as classified in

Table XIII are excluded and replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

3. Marking.

a. Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts to insure a correct shade and size throughout the parka. Drill holes shall not be used and markings shall not be visible on the outer shell of the parka.

4. Assemble collar and attach hanger loop.

a. Place eyelet reinforcement piece on inside of outer collar, 1/4 inch below top cut edge at center of outer collar.

b. Make a 3/16 inch eyelet in center of outer collar top edge, 5/8 inch down from cut edge and centered on the reinforcement piece.

Eyelet 19 (min)

c. Hem bottom of outer collar by turning up the bottom edge 1/4 inch and stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1

10-13

d. On the tricot side of the outer collar, position three strips of loop fastener tape in accordance with marks on pattern and stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

301 LSbj-1 10-13

e. Stitch inside collar and outside collar together along top edge. Turn and top stitch

1/16-1/8 inch from top edge.

301 SSe-2

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

(cont.)

f. Attach barrel lock to collar drawcord and insert drawcord through the eyelet with barrel lock on the outside of the collar. Stitch ends of drawcord to front ends of inside collar 1/8 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1

10 –13

g. Topstitch collar together with a second row of stitching 1/2 inch from first row of stitching.

Do not catch drawcord in stitching.

SSe-2(b)

h. A hanger loop (3/8 inch wide nylon tape) shall be attached to the top edge of the inside collar at center back. The tape shall be folded with mitered corners and shall lay flat, parallel to the inside top collar edge Each end of the hanger loop tape shall be turned under 3/8 to

1/2 inches, and stitched to the collar with a bartack parallel to the collar edge. The finished opening length shall be 2 (±1/4) inches. The drawcord shall not be caught in the stitching.

3/8 inch

Bartack

Or 301

21-28 per bartack

5. Assemble throat tab.

a. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch 1/4 inch from edges of throat tab.

or

SSe-2(a)

b. Turn, work out edges of flap. Stitch 1/8 to

3/16 inch from turned edge.

301 SSe-2(b) 10-13

6. Assemble rank tab.

a. Center hook fastener tape at point of rank tab per marks on pattern and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch

LSbj-1

b. Fold rank tab in half lengthwise, face side out and crease sides and point of the one piece tab. Stitch sides and point of the rank tab 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

301 or 401 SSa-1 10-13

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

7. Assemble sleeve tabs.

a. Position hook fastener tape on face of the sleeve tab in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

b. Fold sleeve tab in half, face side out, and crease side cut edges. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edges.

- or -

EFn-2 10-13

c. Fold sleeve tab in half. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch 1/4 inch from edges of sleeve tab.

d. Turn face side out, work out corners and edges. Top stitch 1/8 inch from edges.

Note; When assembling the sleeve tabs using automated equipment, it is permissible not to stitch across the square end of the sleeve tab.

8. Assemble sleeve pocket flaps.

a. Position two loop fastener tapes on face of sleeve pocket flap in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch around all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

b. Fold sleeve pocket flap in half lengthwise, (face sides together) and with edges aligned, stitch ends of sleeve pocket flap.

SSe-2(a) 10-13

c. Turn sleeve pocket flap, work out corners and edges. Stitch 1/4 inch from edge along sides and bottom of sleeve pocket flap.

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

9. Assemble sleeve pockets and left sleeve pencil pocket.

a. Fold under top cut edge of left sleeve pencil pocket 3/8 inch. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

b. Fold under top cut edge of sleeve pocket 1/2 inch. Stitch 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1 10-13

c. Position two hook fastener tapes on face of sleeve pocket in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch

LSbj-1 10-13

d. Form bellows by folding sides of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern and stitch l/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

10. Assemble lower pocket flaps.

a. Position two loop fastener tapes on face of lower pocket flap in accordance with marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

b. Fold lower pocket flap in half lengthwise, with face sides together and edges aligned, stitch ends 1/4 inch from edge.

c. Turn lower pocket flap, work out corners and edges. Top stitch 1/4 inch from edge around sides and bottom.

SSe-2(b) 10-13

11. Assemble lower pockets.

a. Turn under top edge of lower pockets 1/2 inch and stitch 1/4 to 3/8 inch from folded edge.

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

(cont.)

b. Position two hook fastener tapes on face of pocket in accordance with marks on pattern.

Stitch all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges.

LSbj-1 10-13

c. Position lower pocket back on lower pocket, with face sides together and notches aligned, stitch to the pocket 1/4 inch from notched edge.

Turn outside pocket face side out and stitch 1/8 inch from turned edge.

SSe-2 10-13

12. Assemble hood.

a. Stitch hood pieces together 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-1

b. Seam seal hood joining seam.

c. Position three hook fastener tapes in accordance with marks on pattern on outside bottom of hood. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to

3/16 inch from edges. (The middle hook fastener tape shall be centered over the hood joining seam).

d. On inside of hood, seam seal hook fastener tape stitching.

e. Position visor interlining on inside of visor piece. Stay stitch to along edge of visor 1/8

(±1/16) inch from edges.

301 SSa-1

f. Turn under ends of hood tunnel 3/8 inch and stitch 1/4 inch from folded edge.

EFa-1 10-13

g. Fold hood tunnel over drawcord and stitch edges together 3/16 to 1/8 inch from cut edge.

Drawcord shall not be caught in stitching.

or

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

(cont.)

h. At center of tunnel, vertically bartack or backtack tunnel and drawcord.

or 301

21-28 per bartack or 10 to

13 per backtack

i. Position visor (face to face) on hood and stitch 1/4 inch from edge. Turn and force out curved edges and stitch 1/8 inch from turned edge of visor.

SSe-2

j. Position hood tunnel to face side of hood at the front notch and stitch 1/4 inch from the cut edge up to the visor junction, continue stitching across the straight edge of visor, and along remaining cut edge of hood to opposite front notch.

301 SSa-1 10-13

k. Turn hood tunnel to inside of hood and stitch

1/8 inch from folded edge until it overlaps the visor edge stitching. Repeat operation on opposite side of hood.

301 LSbp-1

(b)

10 –13

l. Thread barrel locks onto ends of drawcord tape. Extend drawcord tape beyond barrel locks and form an overhand knot on the cord 1 (±1/4) inch from edge and stitch ends of drawcord tape to knit side of finished front edges of hood.

m. Seam seal hood tunnel stitching to the bottom edge of hood neckline seam.

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

13. Assemble upper front of parka, chest pockets, and attach combination label.

a. Position size label and combination label on right (as worn) chest pocket, 3-1/4 (±1/8) inch from pocket top for all sizes and for sizes X-Small and Small 1 (±1/8) inch, for sizes Medium – XX-Large 2-1/2 (±1/8) inches from straight raw edge side finishing nearest the slide fastener). Stitch labels to chest pocket, 1/8 inch from all edges.

10 - 13

b. Overedge front edge of chest pocket to the center front pocket extension. Overedge the exposed edges of the chest pocket welt interlining.

502, 503, 505, or

Efd-1 7-9

c. Stitch chest pocket welt interlining, chest front and chest pocket extension together catching slide fastener in between. Stitch center front and center front pocket extension together catching other side of slide fastener. Stitch upper front and center front together above and below pocket, ending at the notches.

d. Stitch pocket bags to upper pocket extensions.

301or 401 with

502, 503, 505, or

Efd-1

10-13

7– 9

e. Stitch the front pocket extension and the under pocket extension together catching ends of slide fastener tape, and stitch a 3/8 inch seam, starting at the notch and along top end of extension. Backstitch ends of seam.

Repeat operation for bottom of extension and opposite side. Chest pocket opening shall measure 8-3/4 (+1/4,-3/8) inches.

SSa-1 10- 13

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

(cont.)

f. With face sides together and edges aligned, stitch around curved pocket edges 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge.

SSa-2

10 -13

g. Attach two 2-inch reinforcement tape tabs to the edge of pocket. The pocket shall be stitched on the tape, i.e., the finished position of the tape shall be between the pocket and the parka. One reinforcement tape shall be positioned at the top curved edge of the pocket and the other 6 to 7-1/2 inches lower on the curved edge of the pocket.

-or-

h. as an alternate construction: Attach four one-inch reinforcement tape tabs to the edge of pocket. The tape is positioned to the back side of the pocket as follows: One at the top of the pocket, adjacent to the facing, one at the top curved edge of the pocket, one 6 to 7-1/2 inches lower on the curved back edge of the pocket and one at the bottom of the pocket, adjacent to the facing.

i. Center a 3/8 inch bartack or backtack through the reinforcement tape and pocket (on the safety stitching) or 301

21-28 per bartack or 10-13 backtack

14.

Attach rank tab.

a. Position rank tab on left (as worn) upper parka front, in accordance with mark on pattern and stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge of tab.

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

(cont.)

b. Position loop fastener tape on left front according to marks on pattern and align with hook fastener portion of fastener tape on rank tab. Stitch loop fastener tape around all four sides to left front of parka.

15. Assemble sleeves.

a. Position elbow patches, in accordance with marks on pattern, face side up on face of upper sleeves. Fold under front side, diagonal, and top edges 1/4 inch and stitch to sleeve 1/8 to

3/16 inch from folded edge.

LSd-1

b. Stitch lower sleeve to upper sleeve, catching bottom edge of elbow patch in seam.

LSq-2(a) 10 -13

c. With seam allowance towards top of sleeve, topstitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from seam line.

301 LSq-2(b)

d. Position a loop fastener tape on lower sleeve as indicated by marks on pattern. Stitch on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge with

1/2 inch overlap stitching.

LSbj-1 10 -13

e. Position sleeve tab on sleeve in accordance with notches and in alignment with loop fastener tape. Stitch tab to sleeve 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge.

301 SSa-1 10 -13

f. Position pencil pocket, in accordance with marks on pattern, onto left sleeve with back side on face side of sleeve. Turn under left cut edge 1/4 inch and stitch 1/8 to 3/16 from edge to bottom notch.

LSd-1 10 -13

TYPE

SEAM/

STITCH

TYPE

STITCH

PER

INCH

(cont.)

g. Place left sleeve pocket on left sleeve according to marks on patterns, face size up , and align right cut edges of pocket and pencil pocket. Turn under pocket edges 1/4 inch, including pencil pocket on right side and bottom. Stitch to sleeve 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edges. Finished pockets shall be centered above elbow patches, 301 LSd-1 10 -13

h. Position right sleeve pocket, according to marks on pattern, face side up and turn under pocket edges 1/4 inch and stitch to sleeve 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edges. Finished pockets shall be centered above elbow patches.

LSb-1 10 -13

i. Position sleeve pocket flap on sleeve in accordance with marks on pattern, centered over the pocket. Stitch to sleeve. Fold sleeve pocket flap down and topstitch 1/4 (± 1/16) inch from fold, burying cut edge.

LSbl-2 10 -13

j. Seam seal inside of sleeve, covering all stitching.

16.