GL-PD 15-05G Trouser IHWCU 7.7.2021.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

GL-PD-15-05G

7 July 2021

SUPERSEDING

GL-PD-15-05F

1 September 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

TROUSERS, IMPROVED HOT WEATHER COMBAT UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense (DoD).

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This Purchase Description covers the requirements for improved hot weather combat uniform trousers to be worn by Service personnel in hot weather environments.

1.2 Classification. The trousers for the Improved Hot Weather Combat Uniform (IHWCU) is treated for insect repellency and will be available in the following types, class and sizes.

1.2.1 Types.

Type I. Unisex Type II. Female

1.2.2 Classes.

Class 1 Deleted Class 2 Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Department of the U.S. Army, DEVCOM - Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PE, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.

AMSC N/A FSC 8415

1.2.3 Sizes. The trousers unisex sizes will be as follows:

SCHEDULE OF SIZES TYPE I UNISEX

X-Small (XS) Small (S) Medium (M) Large (L) X-Large

(XL)

XX-Large

(2XL)

X-Short (XS) X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short X-Short

Short (S) Short Short Short Short Short Regular (R) Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular

Long (L) Long Long Long Long Long X-Long (XL) X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long X-Long

XX-Long (XXL) XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long XX-Long

FEMALE SCHEDULE OF SIZES TYPE II FEMALE

25 28 31 35

X-Short X-Short X-Short ---- Short Short Short Short

Regular Regular Regular Regular ---- Long Long Long ---- ---- X-Long X-Long

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing, Hole and Button Staple (plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-5038 - Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-W-5664 - Webbing, Textile, Elastic MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) MIL-DTL-32439 - Cloth, Duck, Textured Nylon MIL-PRF-32659 - Textiles: Vector Protection Treatment of

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

DRAWINGS

U.S. ARMY COMBAT CAPABILITIES DEVELOPMENT COMMAND SOLDIER CENTER

2-1-2592 Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

(Copies of drawings are available from the U.S. Army, DEVCOM – Soldier Center, ATTN:

FCDD-SCD-PE, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC EP1 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 - Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 - Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP9 - Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color Difference in Textiles AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.3 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM61 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 - Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D737 - Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling

- Pendulum (Elmendorf Type) Apparatus ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3990 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(For Information on obtaining copies of the Fabric Defect Replica Scales please contact the U.S.

Army, DEVCOM - Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCD-PE, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure – Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor).

(Copies are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.

https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The Type I trousers design shall have the following characteristics; a covered fly with a four (4) button/ buttonhole closure, or three (3) button/buttonhole closure, depending on size (see Table VII), seven (7) belt loops, two (2) front side hanging pockets, two (2) cargo pockets with side pleated bellow on each side, and one (1) centered inverted box pleat with two (2) button/ two (2) buttonhole closure flaps, and two (2) lower leg side pockets with one (1) button/ one (1) buttonhole closure flaps, two (2) back single welt hip pockets with two (2) button closure flaps (see Figure 5). All pockets shall have sewn in eyelets, see pattern for placement, the eyelets on the cargo pockets and lower leg pockets shall be completely hidden by the bellows. The trousers shall have a double needle seat patch and a pleated knee reinforcement incorporated into the pant leg at the knee and one (1) pleat at each thigh. The trousers have a one (1) piece single gusset (see 3.8.8). The bottom of the trousers leg hems shall have drawstrings (see 3.8.7.3). The Type II Trousers shall have the same design features as Type I, four (4), three (3) or two (2) buttons at the waistband/fly (see Table VII-A), and shall have sewn in elastic centered on the back of the waistband.

3.4 Materials.

3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall meet the requirements of Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. The color of the cloth shall be shall be OCP for Class 2.

TABLE I. Physical requirements, basic material.

Characteristic Requirements

Fiber identification quantitative, percent

57% HT420 High Tenacity Nylon 43% Cotton

Weave Ripstop Weight, oz./square yard 5.0 - 6.0 Construction, yarns per inch, (min.)

Warp

Filling

Breaking strength, pounds, (min.)

Tearing strength, pounds, (min.)

TABLE I. Physical requirements, basic material. - Continued

Dimensional stability, percent, (max):

Warp direction Filling direction

Air Permeability, cu. ft./min./sq. ft. (min.) 60 Toxicity See 3.14

3.4.1.1 Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP), Class 2. The cloth(s) shall be dyed to a ground shade matching Dark Cream 559 and then shall be overprinted with the camouflage pattern matching Drawing 2-1-2592. When the ground shade is dyed to match Dark Cream 559, the remaining six (6) colors shall be printed as appropriate, for the Tan 525, Light Sage 560, Olive 527, Dark Green 528, Brown 529 and Bark Brown 561 areas of the pattern. When the ground shade is not dyed Dark Cream 559 all seven (7) colors of the camouflage pattern shall be printed to match all seven (7) colors of the pattern.

3.4.1.2 Pattern execution The pattern on the printed finished cloth(s) shall reproduce the standard sample in respect to design, colors and registration of the respective areas. The pattern repeat shall be 25.255 (+1.25, -2.50) inches in the warp direction. The various areas of the pattern shall be properly registered in relation to each other and shall present definite sharp demarcations with a minimum of feathering or spew. Each pattern area shall show solid coverage; skitteriness exceeding that shown on the standard sample in any of the printed areas will not be acceptable. When the standard sample is not referenced for pattern execution, a pattern drawing shall be provided.

3.4.1.2.1 Pattern width (filling direction). The maximum camouflage printed area shall be 68-inches in the filling direction.

3.4.1.3 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used.

3.4.1.4 Visual shade matching (all Classes). The color and appearance of the cloth(s) shall match the standard sample (see 6.4) when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.4.1.5 Color. The cloth for the trousers shall meet the colorfastness requirements of Table II when tested as specified in 4.5.

THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK

TABLE II. Colorfastness requirements.

Colors Evaluation Laundering (3 cycles)

Color Change and Staining (min.)

Light (40 AFU or 170kJ/ (m2nm)

@ 420 nm) (min.) 1/

Perspiration (acid & alkaline) Color Change and

Staining (min.)

Crocking (Dry and

Wet) (min.)

Dk. Green 528, Brown 529, Bark Brown 561

3-4 3-4 3-4 3.5

Tan 525, Olive 527, Dark Cream 559, Light Sage 560

3-4 3 3-4 3.5

1/ AATCC Fading Units (AFU)

3.4.1.6 Spectral reflectance.

3.4.1.6.1 Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP), Class 2. The reflectance values for the Class 2 cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in Table III, when tested as specified in 4.5.

TABLE III. Spectral reflectance requirements, Class 2.

Reflectance values (percent): Operational Camouflage Pattern (OCP)

Wavelength, Nanometers (nm)

Dark Cream 559 & Tan 525

Olive 527, Brown 529 &

Light Sage 560

Dark Green 528 & Bark Brown 561

Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.

600 22 44 12 30 3 11 620 24 45 12 30 3 12 640 24 45 12 32 4 13 660 25 45 12 32 4 14 680 28 45 14 34 4 17 700 28 48 14 36 6 23 720 30 52 16 39 6 23 740 32 55 18 41 10 25 760 36 56 20 43 14 30 780 38 57 22 45 18 35 800 40 57 22 45 21 40 820 44 58 24 46 24 42 840 46 59 26 47 26 43 860 48 60 28 48 28 45

3.4.2 Cloth, side and hip hanging pockets, and waistband lining. The cloth for waistband lining, side and hip hanging pockets, shall be basic printed material (3.4.1) or basic material seconds, military misprint or, unprinted but finished, grade nylon/cotton (NYCO) fabric that is consistently weighting 6 ounces per square yard or less, to a minimum of 5 ounces per square yard. First/second fabrics in the ground shade or white may be used for pocketing materials only, that are not visible on the outside of the garment. Seconds shall be basic material which has been rejected only for defects pertaining to shade, infrared reflectance, or camouflage printed pattern as outlined in the appropriate material specification.

3.4.2.1 Waistband lining reinforcement. The waistband lining shall be reinforced with a medium weight sewn or fusible interlining.

3.4.3 Reinforcement and patch cloth. The cloth for the seat patch and knee reinforcement outer layer shall conform to MIL-DTL-32439 Type IV, Class 1, Style H (OCP).

3.4.4 Knit fabric. The knit fabric for the inner knee lining shall meet the requirements of Table IV when tested as specified in 4.5. The color of the cloth for Class 2 shall match Tan 499.

TABLE IV. Physical requirements, knit fabric.

Fiber identification quantitative, percent 65% Tencel ® Lyocell/

35% Cocona® Polyester Knit Construction Jersey Weight, oz./square yard 4.80 – 5.30 Toxicity See 3.14

3.5 Insect bite protection (all types and classes). The finished garments with insect repellent treatment shall provide the minimum mosquito bite protection specified in 3.5.1 and the treatment shall be strictly limited to the levels specified in contract and is active ingredient dependent.

3.5.1 Percent (%) bite protection. Finished insect repellent treated garments shall provide the minimum bite protection specified below when assessed by the biting protection testing specified in 4.6. Government approval shall be required initially, and any time there is a change in the insect repellent treatment formulation or processing conditions.

Condition % Mosquito Bite Protection (min) Initial ≥ 85% After 20 launderings ≥ 80% After 50 launderings ≥ 70%

3.5.1.1 DELETED

3.5.1.2 Insect repellent garment application, finished measurements. Manufacturers shall comply with the finished measurement requirements in 3.13.1 and compensate for actual fabric shrinkage or growth after the application of garment treatment in accordance with the requirements in MIL-PRF-32659.

3.5.2 Insect repellent treatment. Insect repellent treatment process shall be in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The treated items shall be labeled in accordance with 3.9.3 and 3.9.4.

The insect repellent finish shall be uniformly applied across the treated item at an initial target level as specified in the EPA registered label. The treatment level shall provide the percent (%) bite protection specified in 3.5.1. The finished insect repellent treatment shall not degrade any performance characteristics or present any latent defects to the treated item.

3.6 pH (Class 2). The pH value of the water extract of all the finished cloth and garments shall be no lower than 5.0 or higher than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5 and 4.6.

3.7 Component materials and shade (all classes). The component materials for the trousers shall be made in accordance to paragraphs 3.4 and 3.7 - 3.7.3 and the color shall match Tan 499 for OCP uniforms unless otherwise noted.

3.7.1 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to Table V. All thread shall be non-staining and the requirements in each Commercial Item Description (CID) shall apply.

TABLE V. Thread requirements.

Component area Thread specification Needle thread 1/ (Tex size)

Bobbin/Looper thread 1/ (Tex size)

All seaming, stitching and bar-tacking

A-A-50199, Type II 36-45 or 46-60 36-45 or 46-60

Button attachment A-A-50199, Type II 71-105 71-105 Crotch seam and seat patch A-A-50199, Type II 46-60 46-60 Overedge stitching (raw edges) A-A-50199, Type II 31-35 31-35

1/ Needle & Bobbin/Looper shall use same Tex size thread.

3.7.2 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to A-A-50198, soft or glazed finish, Tex Size 180 or 210.

3.7.3 Buttons. Buttons shall be dull finish, four (4) holes, 30 ligne conforming to A-A-59994, Type I, Class 1, Style 26. When attached to the trousers, the button and thread shall withstand a pull/break of 40 pounds (minimum) when tested as specified in 4.6. The button count, including the waistband, shall be as specified in Table VI for Type I and Table VI-A for Type II.

TABLE VI. Button count (including waistband), Type I.

Length Sizes Type I - UNISEX X-Small

(XS)

Small

(S) Medium

(M) Large

(L) X-Large

(XL)

2X-Large

(2XL)

X Short (XS) 3 3 3 3 3 3 Short (S) 3 3 3 3 3 4 Regular (R) 3 3 3 3 4 4 Long (L) 3 3 3 4 4 4 X Long (XL) 3 3 4 4 4 4 XX Long (XXL) 3 4 4 4 4 4

TABLE VI-A. Button count (including waistband), Type II.

Sizes Type II - FEMALE Length 25 28 31 35 X-Short (XS) 2 2 3 -- Short (S) 2 2 3 3 Regular (R) 3 3 3 3 Long (L) -- 3 3 3 X-Long (XL) -- -- 3 4

3.8 Construction. The construction shall be made in accordance to paragraphs 3.8.1 - 3.13.11 unless otherwise noted. All garment material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in turned-under or serged, unless otherwise indicated. All components with a grain line shall follow the grain line of the basic garment material or as indicated on pattern.

3.8.1 Waistband (all types). The waistband shall have clean finished ends, measuring 1-1/2 (+3/8, -1/8) inches wide (finished) for Type I and for Type II it should be 1-5/8 (+3/8, -1/8) inches wide (finished) when measured from inside of band from top edge to the bottom folded edge. The waistband shall be single needle stitched at top and bottom for Type I and Type II.

The waistband buttonhole shall be centered on the waistband 5/8 (± 1/16) - inch from inside cut of the buttonhole. The four (4), three (3), or two (2), buttons, of the waistband and fly (see Table VI), shall be aligned with the keyhole of the buttonholes when fly is closed.

3.8.1.1 Waistband (Type II). The waistband shall have one (1) section of elastic (see 3.8.1.2) which is located at the center back waist inside of the waistband, and will be attached by bar tack or box X under the back belt loops. If box X is chosen it shall be 3/8-inch wide, 3/4-inch tall and be stitched with 301 stitch.

3.8.1.2 Elastic (Type II only). The elastic for the waistband shall be 1-inch wide in cut lengths by size, conforming to MIL-W-5664, Type I or Type II is acceptable.

Size Cut elastic (inches) (± 1/8-inch) 25 5 28 6.5 31 8 35 10

3.8.2 Belt loops (all types). The seven (7) trousers belt loops shall measure 1 (+1/16, -1/8) inch in width and finish 2-5/8 (± 1/8) inches between bar-tacks in the length. The belt loop seam allowance/ exposed raw edge shall be no more than 1/4-inch. The belt loop placement shall be as follows: one (1) loop on each side seam, one (1) on back seam, and one (1) on each front centered between side seam and waistband end, and one (1) on each back side centered between side seam and back seam. Belt loops may be positioned immediately adjacent to felled seams to reduce bulk in sewing. When positioning belt loops adjacent to side seam, the belt loop shall be placed toward the front.

3.8.3 Front fly. The fly shall be a covered fly with a three (3) button/ buttonhole closure, two

(2) button/buttonhole closure or a one (1) button/ buttonhole, depending on the type and size (see Tables VI and VI-A). The buttonholes shall be horizontal and placed as indicated on the pattern.

The fly shall have “J” stitching 2 (± 1/8) inches from fly edge. The top fly shall be edge stitched 1/16 to 1/8-inch.

3.8.4 Seat patch. The trousers shall have a double-needle seat patch (see pattern for placement).

3.8.5 Knee reinforcement. The trousers shall have a knee reinforcement on the outside of each leg which incorporates four (4) pleats on Type I, and two (2) pleats on Type II, and is stitched into the pant leg on all four (4) sides (see pattern for placement).

3.8.6 Pockets and flaps.

3.8.6.1 Front side pockets. The trousers shall have two (2) front side hanging pockets with pocket openings measuring 6-3/4 (± 1/2) inches between bar-tacks. Each front side pocket shall have a drainhole/eyelet as marked on the patterns. Pocket openings shall match each other within 1/4-inch. Any raw edge shall be overedge stitched.

3.8.6.2 Hip pockets and flaps. The trouser shall have back left and right single welt hip pockets with a two (2) button/buttonhole closure per pocket. The finished welt shall measure 1/4 (± 1/16) inch. Each hip pocket shall have a drainhole/eyelet as marked on the patterns. The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn into the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns (see Figures 4 and 5).

3.8.6.3 Cargo pockets and flaps. The trousers shall have two (2) cargo pockets with two (2) side pleated bellows and one (1) centered inverted box pleat and flaps (see pattern for placement). The cargo pockets shall have a sewn-in eyelet, hidden at the bottom side edge of bellow as indicated on the patterns. The top of the folded finished pocket flaps shall finish 3/4-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The side pleated bellows and the inverted box pleat shall be edge stitched to secure pleat stability. The cargo pockets and flaps shall close with a two (2) button, two (2) buttonhole closure per pocket. The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn onto the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns (see Figure 5).

3.8.6.4 Lower leg pockets and flaps. The trousers shall have two (2) lower leg pockets with flaps (see pattern for placement). The top of the finished pocket flaps shall finish 3/4-inch from the folded edge of pocket top (see pattern for placement). The lower leg pockets and flaps shall close with a one (1) button, one (1) buttonhole closure per pocket. The buttons shall be sewn onto the outside of the pocket and the buttonholes shall be vertical and sewn onto the underside of the flap as indicated on patterns. One (1) button shall be added to the underside of the left lower leg pocket flap so as to not interfere with the buttoning of the pocket as an extra replacement button for all button locations (see Figure 5).

3.8.7 Leg and bottom hem. The finished hem shall measure 1-1/8 (±1/8) inch wide. and shall not interfere with the drawstring.

3.8.7.1 Bottom hem. The trousers leg bottoms shall be hemmed and shall have a drawstring (see 3.8.7.3) inserted through two (2) sewn-in eyelets (see 3.8.11) 3/8 (± 1/8) inch in diameter, or two (2) 1/2-inch horizontal straight cut buttonholes as indicated on the patterns with a self-reinforcement piece.

3.8.7.2 DELETED

3.8.7.3 Hem tape (drawstrings). The tape for the leg bottom hem shall conform to MIL- DTL-5038, Type III, 3/8-inch wide. The drawstring tape for the leg bottom hem shall be cut 28 (± 1) inches in length for all sizes. The drawstring tape shall overlap (cross) between holes when threaded through the hem casing. The tape ends shall be heat cut to prevent raveling.

3.8.8 Gussets. The trousers shall have a one (1) piece single gusset toward the front of the trouser with the same cloth as the basic material.

3.8.9 Buttonholes. The buttonholes for the fly and hip pockets shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type worked over gimp with not less than four (4) tacking stitches at bar end catching the gimp ends (not counting the crossover stitch). The purling shall be on the outside surface. The buttonholes for the cargo and lower leg pockets shall be bar type without gimp, or eyelet and tapered type with gimp. All buttonholes shall be reinforced with sewn, fused or self-fabric interfacing to stabilize the buttonholes or shall be reinforced with gimp. The cut lengths shall be 3/4-inch to 7/8-inch. The buttonholes shall be clean cut with the stitching securely caught in fabric.

3.8.10 Lining, knee. The trousers shall have a knit inner lining at the knees (see 3.4.4) (see pattern for placement).

3.8.11 Eyelets. The sewn-in eyelets for all pockets shall have a minimum of 16 stitches and a 1/4 (± 1/16) inch diameter finished opening. When sewn-in eyelets are used for the leg bottom they shall measure 3/8 (± 1/8) inch in diameter. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four (4) overlapping stitches with the purling on the outside. See pattern for placement.

3.9 Labels. All garments shall have a size label and a combination identification/care label sewn into the trousers. All trousers shall have an additional insect protection/identification/care label sewn into the trousers and a hang tag. The printing for all labels shall be black. The font size for the inscription of the size label shall be 10 points. The inscription shall have a minimum font size of 8 points for identification/care label and insect protection/identification/care label only. Inscription shall be legible.

3.9.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be sewn and caught in the bottom of the inside waistband seam between the back belt loops on the wear’s right side. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The color of the size labels shall be white. The size label shall include the information in Table VII for Type I and Table VII–A for Type II for the applicable size:

TABLE VII. Size label - Type I (Unisex).

X-Small – X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/5869

X-Small – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/5869

X-Small – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/5869

X-Small – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/5869

X-Small – X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/5869

X-Small – XX-Long Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 23 to 27 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/5869

Small – X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/6979

Small – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/6979

Small – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/6979

Small – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/6979

Small – X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/6979

Small – XX-Long Inseam: Over 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 27 to 31 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/6979

TABLE VII. Size label - Type I (Unisex). - Continued

Medium – X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/7989

Medium – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/7989

Medium – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/7989

Medium – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:8390/7989

Medium - X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/7989

Medium - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 31 to 35 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/7989

Large - X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/8999

Large – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/8999

Large – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/8999

Large – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/8999

Large - X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/8999

Large - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 35 to 39 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/8999

X-Large - X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/9909

X-Large - Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/9909

X-Large - Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/9909

X-Large - Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/9909

X-Large - X-Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/9909

X-Large - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 39 to 43 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9805/9909

XX-Large - X-Short Inseam: 23-1/2 to 26-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6067/0919

XX-Large – Short Inseam: 26-1/2 to 29-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 6775/0919

XX-Large – Regular Inseam: 29-1/2 to 32-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 7583/0919

XX-Large – Long Inseam: 32-1/2 to 35-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 8390/0919

XX-Large - X- Long Inseam: 35-1/2 to 38-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size: 9098/0919

XX-Large - XX-Long Inseam: 38-1/2 to 41-1/2 in.

Waist: 43 to 47 in.

NATO Size: 9805/0919

TABLE VII-A. Size label - Type II (Female).

25 – X Short Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:6067/5869

28 – X Short Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:6067/6979

31 – X Short Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 24 to 26 in.

NATO Size:6067/7989

25 – Short Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:6775/5869

28 – Short Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:6775/6979

31 – Short Waist: 31to 35 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:6775/7989

35 – Short Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 26 to 28 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:6775/8999

25 – Regular Waist: 25 to 28 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:7583/5869

28 – Regular Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:7583/6979

31 – Regular Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:7583/7989

35 – Regular Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 28 to 30 in.

NATO Size:7583/8999

28 – Long Waist: 28 to 31 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:7583/6979

31 – Long Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:7583/7989

35 – Long Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 30 to 32 in.

NATO Size:7583/8999

31 – X Long Waist: 31 to 35 in.

Inseam: 32 to 34 in.

NSN No.

NATO Size:8390/7989

35 – X Long Waist: 35 to 39 in.

Inseam: 32 to 34 in.

NATO Size:8390/8999

3.9.2 Identification and care label. The combination identification/care label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 and shall be placed on the left back hip pocket as worn, so that on the finished trousers the label shall be on the pocket bag facing the garment and away from the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not cover the printing. The color of the combination identification and care label shall be white. The label shall include the information in Figure 1.

Trousers, Improved Hot Weather Combat Uniform – Unisex or Trousers, Improved Hot Weather Combat Uniform – Female Contract Number:

Fiber Content: Basic Material: 57% Nylon/ 43% Cotton Reinforcement Material: 100% Nylon Knit Material: 65% Tencel ® Lyocell/ 35% Cocona® Polyester Contractor Name:

Lot Number 1/

USE AND CARE

PRIOR TO LAUNDERING: Empty pockets. Pre-treat stains with commercially available pre-treatments.

HOME LAUNDERING: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water using permanent press cycle. Rinse in cold water. Tumble dry low.

WASHING BY HAND: Use cold water detergent. Wash in cold water. Rinse completely. Never twist or wring dry. Hang dry on a rust-proof hanger. Do not hang dry in direct sunlight.

NOTE: Wash garment separate from other garments. In military field operations, garment may be washed with other garments.

CAUTION:

DO NOT USE BLEACH, BLEACH ALTERNATIVES, FABRIC SOFTENER, OR

STARCH. DO NOT DRY CLEAN OR COMMERCIALLY HOT PRESS.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

1/ Lot number shall be stamped with indelible black ink prior to shipment.

FIGURE 1. Combination identification, use and care label.

3.9.3 Insect repellent protection label. The insect repellent protection label shall conform to Type VI, Class 15 of MIL-DTL-32075. The label placement shall be as specified in 3.9.3.1.

The label shall be the approved EPA Label in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The top of the label (above the line) shall include the information in Figure 2. The color for the insect repellent protection label shall be white.

3.9.3.1 Label placement. The label shall be placed on the right back hip pocket as worn, so that on the finished trousers the label shall be on the pocket bag facing the garment and away from the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four (4) sides. The stitching shall not cover the printing.

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Refer to hangtag for more information

Treater Name: XXXXXXX 1/

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

THIS SECTION SHALL BE AS SPECIFIED IN MIL-PRF-32659

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

1/ Fill in appropriate vendor that has treated this item

FIGURE 2. Insect repellent label (example) (all types).

3.9.4 Hangtag, Mosquito bite protection. Each trousers shall have an individual paper tag attached in accordance with MIL-PRF-32659. The top portion of the hang tag, above the line, shall include the information specified in Figure 3. The color for the hang tag shall be white.

The paper tag shall be Swift tacked in the side seam approximately 2-inches below the belt loop.

INSECT REPELLENT APPAREL

Treater Name: XXXX 1/ Contractor Address:

EPA REG. NO.:

EPA EST. NO.:

THIS SECTION SHALL BE AS SPECIFIED IN MIL-PRF-32659

THIS TAG NOT TO BE REMOVED EXCEPT BY CUSTOMER

1/ Fill in appropriate vendor that has treated this garment

FIGURE 3. Insect repellent hang tag (example) (all types).

3.9.5 Barcode hang tag. Each trousers shall have a white paper barcode hang tag conforming to Type VIII, Class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075. The hang tag shall be Swift tacked in the side seam approximately 2-inches below the belt loop and shall be completely visible on the trousers when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so it causes no damage to the trousers. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit National Stock Number (NSN) or Management Control Number (MCN) There shall be a 12 digit Universal Product Code (UPC) number assigned for all MCNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code.

NOTE: The hang tag for insect protection and barcode may be applied jointly with the use of one (1) Swift tack.

3.10 Figures. Figures 4A through 6C in this document are furnished for informational purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.11 List of pattern parts. The Government shall furnish patterns, which show directional line markings for proper cutting and assembly, and are to be used as a guide for cutting contractor’s working patterns. The Government patterns provide a seam allowance of 1/2-inch for outseams, seat seams, 1/4-inch allowance for pocket flaps, and 3/8-inch allowance for the joining of crotch pieces and all other seams, except where otherwise specified. Minor modifications to the pattern are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacture’s processes to include garment treatments and use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the final design, serviceability, appearance or final finished measurements. The pattern lists in Table VIII and VIII-A are provided to insure that the pattern sets are complete (see 6.2).

TABLE VIII. List of pattern parts - Type I (Unisex).

Material Nomenclature Pattern Abbreviation Cut

Number Basic Material (see 3.4.1)

Back Lower PD15_05C-BACK-LOWER 2 Back Upper PD15_05C-BACK-UPPER 2 Front Lower PD15_05C-FRONT-LOWER 2 Front PD15_05C-FRONT 2

Front Pocket PD15_05C-FR-POCKET 2 Front Pocket Facing PD15_05C-FR-PKT-FAC 2 Front Pocket Bearer PD15_05C-FRT-PKT-BER 2 Cargo Pocket PD15_05C-CARGO-PKT 2

Cargo Pocket Facing PD15_05C-CRG-PKT-FAC 2

Cargo Pocket Flap PD15_05C-CRG-PKT-FLP 2 Lower Leg Pocket PD15_05C-LOW-LEG-PKT 2 Lower Leg Pocket Flap PD15_05C-LOW-LEG-FLP 2 Hip Pocket PD15_05C-HIP-POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Flaps PD15_05C-HIP-PKT-FLP 2 Hip Pocket Bearer PD15_05C-HIP-PCKT-BR 2 Hip Pocket Facing PD15_05C-HIP-PK-FCNG 2 Gusset PD15_05C-GUSSET 1 Waistband PD15_05C-WAISTBAND 1 Fly Left Bottom PD15_05C-FLY-LFT-BTM 1 Fly Left Top PD15_05C-FLY-LFT-TOP 1 Fly Right PD15_05C-FLY-RIGHT 1

TABLE VIII. List of pattern parts - Type I (Unisex). - Continued

Number

Basic Material (see 3.4.1)

ALTERNATE PIECES

Waistband Alternate PD15_05C-WAISTBAND-ALT2 2 Back Upper Alternate PD15_05C-BACK-UPPER-ALT 2

Front Alternate PD15_05C-FRONT-ALT 2 Front Pocket Alternate PD15_05C-FR-POCKET-ALT 2 Front Pocket Bearer Alternate PD15_05C-FR-PKT-BER-ALT 2 Front Pocket Facing Alternate PD15_05C-FR-PKT-FAC-ALT 2 Cargo Pocket Flap Alternate PD15_05C-CRG-PKT-FLP-ALT 2

Cargo Pocket Flap Tab Alternate PD15_05C-CRG-PKT-FLP-

TAB-ALT 2

Hip Pocket Flap Tab Alternate PD15_05C-HIP-PKT-FLP-TAB-

ALT 2

Hip Pocket Flap Alternate PD15_05C-HIP-PKT-FLP-ALT 2

Low Leg Pocket Flap Tab Alternate

PD15_05C-LOW-LEG-FLP-

TAB-ALT 2

Low Leg Pocket Flap Alternate PD15_05C-LOW-LEG-FLP-ALT 2 Fly Left Bottom Alternate PD15_05C-FLY-LFT-BTM-ALT 1 Fly Left Top Alternate PD15_05C-FLY-LFT-TOP-ALT 1 Interfacing (see 3.4.2.1)

Low Leg Pocket Flap Interfacing PD15_05C-LOW-LEG-FLP-

INTR

Hip Pocket Flaps Interfacing PD15_05C-HIP-PKT-FLP-INTR 2 Cargo Pocket Flap Interfacing PD15_05C-CRG-PKT-FLP-

INTR

Waistband Interfacing PD15_05C-WSTBND-INTR 1 Fly Left Top Interfacing PD15_05C-FLY-LFT-INT 1

ALTERNATE PIECES

Waistband Interfacing Alternate PD15_05C-WAISTBAND-

INTR-ALT

Fly Left Top Interfacing Alternate PD15_05C-FLY-LFT-INT-ALT 1 Reinforcement Material (see 3.4.3)

Knee Patch Outer PD15_05C-KNE-PTCH-OT 2 Knee Patch Side PD15_05C-KNE-PTCH-SD 4 Seat Patch PD15_05C-SEAT-PATCH 2

Knit (see 3.4.5) Knee Patch Inner PD15_05C-KNE-PTCH-IN 2

TABLE VIII-A. List of pattern parts - Type II (Female).

Number Basic Material (see 3.4.1)

Back Lower PD15_05F-BACK-LOWER 2 Back Upper PD15_05F-BACK-UPPER 2 Front Lower PD15_05F-FRONT-LOWER 2 Front Upper PD15_05F-FRONT 2 Side Hanging Pocket PD15_05F-FR-POCKET 2 Side Hanging Pocket Facing PD15_05F-FR-PKT-FAC 2 Cargo Pocket PD15_05F-CARGO-PKT 2 Cargo Pocket Facing PD15_05F-CRG-PKT-FAC 2 Cargo Pocket Flap PD15_05F-CRG-PKT-FLP 2 Lower Leg Pocket PD15_05F-LOW-LEG-PKT 2 Lower Leg Pocket Flap PD15_05F-LOW-LEG-FLP 2 Hip Pocket PD15_05F-HIP-POCKET 2 Hip Pocket Flaps PD15_05F-HIP-PKT-FLP 2 Hip Pocket Bearer PD15_05F-HIP-PCKT-BR 2 Hip Pocket Facing PD15_05F-HIP-PK-FCNG 2 Gusset PD15_05F-GUSSET 1 Waistband PD15_05F-WAISTBAND 1 Fly Left Bottom PD15_05F-FLY-LFT-BTM 1 Fly Left Top PD15_05F-FLY-LFT-TOP 1 Fly Right PD15_05F-FLY-RIGHT 1 Front Pocket Bearer PD15_05F-FRT-PKT-BER 2

ALTERNATE PIECES

Back Upper-Alternate PD15_05F-BACK-UPPER-ALT 2 Front-Alternate PD15_05F-FRONT-ALT 2 Side Hanging Pocket-Alternate PD15_05F-FR-POCKET-ALT 2 Front Pocket Bearer-Alternate PD15_05F-FR-PKT-BER-ALT 2 Side Hanging Pocket Facing- Alternate

PD15_05F-FR-PKT-FAC-ALT 2

Cargo Pocket Flap Alternate PD15_05F-CRG-PKT-FLP-ALT 2 Cargo Pocket Flap Tab Alternate PD15_05F-CRG-PKT-FLP-TAB-ALT 2 Low Leg Pocket Flap Alternate PD15_05F-LOW-LEG-FLP-ALT 2 Low Leg Pocket Flap Tab Alternate

PD15_05F-LOW-LEG-FLP-TAB-ALT 2

Hip Pocket Flap Alternate PD15_05F-HIP-PKT-FLP-ALT 2 Hip Pocket Flap Tab Alternate PD15_05F-HIP-PKT-FLP-TAB-ALT 2 Waistband Alternate PD15_05F-WAISTBAND-ALT 2

TABLE VIII-A. List of pattern parts - Type II (Female). - Continued

Number

Interfacing (see 3.4.2.1)

Waistband Interfacing PD15_05F-WSTBND-INTR 1 Fly left top Interfacing PD15_05F-FLY-LT-INTR 1

Cargo Pocket Flap Interfacing

PD15_05F-CRG-PKT-FLP-INTR 2

Hip Pocket Flaps Interfacing PD15_05F-HIP-PKT-FLP-INTR 2

Low Leg Pocket Flap Interfacing

PD15_05F-LOW-LEG-FLP-INTR 2

ALTERNATE PIECES

Waistband Interfacing Alternate

PD15_05F-WAISTBAND-INTR-ALT 1

Reinforcement Material (see 3.4.3)

Knee Patch Outer PD15_05F-KNE-PTCH-OT 2 Knee Patch Side PD15_05F-KNE-PTCH-SD 4 Seat Patch PD15_05F-SEAT-PATCH 2

Knit (see 3.4.5) Knee Patch Inner PD15_05F-KNE-PTCH-IN 2

3.12 Configuration. Each pair of trousers shall conform to design, appearance (see Figures 4A through 6C), the finished measurements in Table XI and Table XI-A and the construction methods specified in 3.12.1 through 3.13.1.1 and Tables VI, VI-A, VII, VII-A, VIII, VIII-A, IX, and X in order to maintain configuration compliance.

3.12.1 Seams and stitching. All seams shall be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM D6193 seam and stitch types listed in Table IX. The backside of seams (inside garment) shall be flat with no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. All material edges shall be clean finished, either, turned-in, turned-under or serged.

The garment shall have no raw edges including inside pockets. All pockets and pocket flaps, if raw edge would be visible when flap is up, shall be serged prior to setting. Needle and bobbin thread tension shall be balanced such that neither is too tight nor too loose relative to each other.

The seams for all outside visible stitching shall be sewn with 11 (± 1) stitches per inch.

Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 10 (± 2) stitches per inch. Buttons shall be attached with 16 (± 1) stitches per button. Buttonholes shall be 54 (± 2) stitches per inch including tack. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four (4) overlapping stitches with the purling on the outside.

All stitches per inch and gauges shall be met prior to any applicable garment treatments.

3.12.1.1 Repair of stitch.

3.12.1.2 Repairs of stitching. Repairs of stitching shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during end item inspection shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start at a minimum of 1/2-inch in back of the defective area and continue a minimum of 1/2-inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner.

NOTE. When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed with scissors. Caution: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not allowed.

3.12.1.3 Repairs of type 401 stitching only. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.12.1.1, and 3.12.1.2, except substitute 3/4-inch for 1/2-inch wherever 1/2-inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitching Type 301.

3.12.2 Fly seaming and stitching. The fly construction stitching of front center crotch seam shall end at J-stitch. There shall be a horizontal bar-tack superimposed on the bottom point of the J-stitch.

TABLE IX. Seam and stitching types.

Seam placement Seam type Gauge Stitch type Side seams, back seam, and inseam

LSc-2 Or

Ssa2-2 and LSq-3

3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge (double lap seam)

301 or 401

Front gusset seam LSq-3 Join front crotch with single needle, then double needle topstitch

Inseam Ssa-2

LSq-3

Over-edge 3/16 to 9/32-inch gauge, then turn and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge

301 or 401 Gusset Ssa-2

LSq-3

Over-edge 3/16 to 9/32-inch gauge, then turn and topstitch 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge

TABLE IX. Seam and stitching types. - Continued

Top stitching of side pockets OSf-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from edge 301 Attachment of pockets (Cargo and lower leg)

LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge and 1/4-inch gauge

Raw edges of pocket flaps, pocket bagging, cargo pockets, bearer or facings

SSa-2 1/4 to 3/8-inch gauge 516, 519

Setting of lower leg and cargo pocket flaps Top stitch

OR

Top stitch

LSba-2

LSb1-2

Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart 3/16 to 1/4-inch from serged edge, then turn flap burying raw edge and top stitch one (1) row 1/4 to 5/16-inches from turned edge

Pocket edge stitching Ssa-1 1/4 to 5/16-inch from edge

502, 503 or

Top stitching of cargo pocket flaps and lower leg flaps

OSF-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch from folded edge

Edge stitch all cargo bellows and pleats

OSf-1 1/16 to 1/8-inch from edge 301

Attachment of knee reinforcements and knee lining

LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart

Waistband attachment options (Type I and Type II:

Grown-on lining Attachment)

Top stitch Sewn-on 1-piece

LSct-3

Alternative Waistband Attachment (Type I and Type II Unisex) Top stitch

OR

Sewn-on 2-piece

BSo-3

LSbc-2

Along top edge

1/16 to 1/8-inch from top and b d f i b d

Bottom hem Efb-1 1 to 1-1/4-inch wide hem 301 Belt loops Efh-1 1/4-inch gauge between needle 402 or 406

TABLE IX. Seam and stitching types. - Continued

Seat patch LSd-2 Two (2) rows 3/16 to 1/4-inch apart. First row of stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8-inch from folded edge

Buttonhole fly – join pieces along front edge; turned in edge

SSe-2 or SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Join left front and left fly lining along front edge; turned in edge

SSe-2 or SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Overedge back edges of left fly lining and buttonhole fly

EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 502, 503 or

J-stitch LSbj-1 2 (± 1/8) inch from edge 301 Join right front and right fly lining along front edge

SSe-2 or SSc-1

1/16 to 1/8-inch from turned in edge

Overedge right fly raw edges EFd-1 3/16 to 1/4-inch gauge 502, 503 or

Labels LSbj-1 1/8 to 3/16-inch from edge 301

3.12.3 Bar-tacks. To maintain garment durability and functionality, bar-tacks shall be placed as specified in Table X. Bar-tacks shall be 1/8 to 3/16-inch wide.

TABLE X. Bar-tack placement (all types).

Bar-tack placement Size of tack (inches)

Stitches per tack 1/

# of Bar-tacks per garment

Horizontal Vertical

Belt loops (set 1/8-inch from top and bottom edge)

a. Top

b. Bottom

7/8 or 1 7/8 or 1

X

TABLE X. Bar-tack placement. - Continued

(inches)

Stitches per tack 1/

# of Bar-tacks per garment

Horizontal Vertical

Fly (see Figure 6)

a. J-stitching, superimposed on outside bottom point (through all layers)

b. Positioned approximately 1/4-inch from bottom right edge and 1/2-inch from front right edge (through all fly layers not visible from front)

c. J-stitching curve, superimposed on outside (through all layers) at upper edge of the curve

5/8

X, 2/

X, 3/

Fly - left front lining Between the three (3), two (2), or one (1) buttonholes (not visible from front of fly)

3, 2 or 1

Cargo pockets

a. Top, (left and right side)

b. Top, Centered on facing, thru all layers

Cargo pocket pleats

a. Top (on facing stitching)

Cargo pocket flaps Top, (left and right side)

Lower leg pockets

a. Top, (left and right side)

Lower leg pocket flaps Top, (left and right side)

Front hanging pocket openings, (meeting or overlapping pocket edge)

a. Top opening, 1/4 - 3/8-inch below waistband

b. Bottom opening, perpendicular to front edge

Back hip pockets (at welt ends along stitchline)

TABLE X. Bar-tack placement. - Continued

(inches)

Stitches per tack 1/

# of Bar-tacks per garment

Horizontal Vertical

Gusset (see Figure 6)

a. Superimposed on outside points (through all seams).

Positioned approximately 1/2-inch on each end of gusset.

b. Superimposed on outside points (through all seams).

Positioned approximately 1/2-inch on each end of gusset at center crotch seam.

Leg hem Center back leg hem (through all layers including drawstring)

Type II only:

Placement of waistband elastic 4/

7/8 or 1 55 2

---- X

Hanging pockets only

a. At bottom of pocket 3/8-inch from edge

b. At each end of pockets (to reinforce bottom (2 per pocket)

3/8

3/8

1/ The tolerance shall be (± 2) stitches per tack.

2/ Bar-tack can be angled.

3/ Along stitch line.

4/ One (1) bar-tack at each end of elastic or box X at each end (see Figure 6C).

3.13 Measurements. All measurements referenced in this document, shall be made after treatment.

3.13.1 Finished measurements. The trousers shall conform to the finished measurements specified in Table XI for Type I (Unisex) and Table XI-A for Type II (Female).

TABLE XI. Finished measurements (inches) Type I (Unisex).

Size X-Small Small Medium Large X- Large

XX-

Large

Tol.

Half Waist, 1/ 13-3/4 15-3/4 17-3/4 19-3/4 21-3/4 23-3/4 ± 1/2 Inseam, 2/ X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

± 3/4

Outseam, 3/ X-Short Short Regular Long

39-1/2

44-1/2

49-1/2

37-1/2

42-1/2

47-1/2

40-1/2

45-1/2

50-1/2

38-1/2

43-1/2

48-1/2

41-1/2

46-1/2

51-1/2

39-1/2

44-1/2

49-1/2

± 3/4

Half Leg Opening, 4/ X-Short Short Regular Long

8-1/2

8-1/2 8-1/2

8-1/2 8-1/2

8-7/8

8-7/8 8-7/8

8-7/8 8-7/8

9-1/4

9-1/4 9-1/4

9-1/4 9-1/4

± 1/2

1/ Half waist - Measure along center of waistband from outside folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Inseam - Measure inseam of trousers from center back of crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser along the inseam.

3/ Outseam - Measure from top edge of waistband to bottom of leg along outseam.

4/ Half leg opening - Measure across bottom of leg from outside folded edge to folded edge on the outer cuff.

TABLE XI-A. Finished measurements (inches) Type II (Female).

Size 25 28 31 35 Tolerance Half Waist, Relaxed 1/ 14 15-1/2 17 18-1/2 ± 1/2 Half Waist, Fully Stretched 2/ 16 17-1/2 19 20-1/2 ± 1/2

Inseam 3/

X-Short 25 25 25 25 ± 3/4 Short 27 27 27 27 Regular 29 29 29 29 Long 31 31 31 31 X-Long 33 33 33 33

Outseam 4/

X-Short 33-7/8 34-1/4 34-5/8 35 ± 3/4 Short 36-3/8 36-3/4 37-1/8 37-1/2 Regular 38-7/8 39-1/4 39-5/8 40 Long 41-3/8 41-3/4 42-1/8 42-1/2 X-Long 43-7/8 44-1/4 44-5/8 45

Half Leg Opening 5/ 8.75 8.75 9 9-1/8 ± 1/2 Half Hip 6/ 19.5 21 22.5 24 ± 1/2

1/ Half waist, Relaxed. Measure along center of waistband from outside folded edge to folded edge. The elastic shall be relaxed.

2/ Half waist, Fully stretched. Stretch waist until fully extended without excessive force, measure along center of waistband from outside folded edge to folded edge.

3/ Inseam - Measure inseam of trousers from center back of crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser along the inseam.

4/ Outseam - Measure from top edge of waistband to bottom of leg along outseam.

5/ Half leg opening - Measure across bottom of leg from outside folded edge to folded edge on the outer cuff.

6/ Half Hip, - At the hanging hip pocket bottom bar-tack, measure from folded edge of garment to folded edge of garment.

3.13.1.1 Methods of measurement. The measurements in Table XI and Table XI-A shall be taken in accordance with the footnotes.