CRFD-PD_04-10D_IPTU-Pants-100930.docx
DOCX document 376 KB Posted
- Attached to
- Running Jackets & Trousers Federal contract opportunity
- Solicitation number
- FA7000-17-T-0027
About this file
Running Pants
View the file
Other files for this federal contract opportunity
| File | Type | Posted |
|---|---|---|
| LOE_CRFD-PD_04-08_Jacket_110831.doc | DOC document | |
| LOE_CRFD-PD_04-10D_Pants_111209.doc | DOC document | |
| CRFD-PD_04-08D_IPTU-Jacket-100930.docx | DOCX document |
On GovTribe
Work with this file on GovTribe
- Download the original file
- Contacts named in this file
- Similar government files
- Ask GovTribe AI about this file
Text version
| CRFD-PD04-10 | FA7000-14-D-0004 | |
| Revision D | Attachment 3 |
FA7000-14-D-0004
Attachment 3
CRFD/PD 04-10
Revision D 30 September 2010
PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
PANTS, IMPROVED, PHYSICAL TRAINING UNIFORM
This Purchase Description is approved for use by the DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. SCOPE. This Purchase Description (PD) covers the requirements for the Physical Training Uniform (PTU) pants. The improved pants are intended for wear by U.S. Air Force personnel (USAF).
1.1 Classification. The pants shall be of one type in the following sizes and lengths.
| X-Short |
| Short |
| Regular |
| Long |
| X-Long |
| XX-Small |
| XX-Small |
| X-Small |
| X-Small |
| Small |
| Small |
| Small |
| Small |
| Medium |
| Medium |
| Medium |
| Medium |
| Medium |
| Large |
| Large |
| Large |
| Large |
| X-Large |
| X-Large |
| X-Large |
| X-Large |
| XX-Large |
| XX-Large |
| XX-Large |
XXX-Large
XXXX-Large
NOTE: Lengths and sizes shown are for tariff sizes only. Additional sizes are available, as follows:
| X-Short |
| Short |
| Regular |
| Long |
| X-Long |
| — |
| XX-Small |
| X-Small |
| X-Small |
| — |
| — |
| X-Small |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| Small |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| Medium |
| Large |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| Large |
| X-Large |
| — |
| — |
| — |
| X-Large |
| XX-Large |
| XX-Large |
| — |
| — |
| XX-Large |
| XXX-Large |
| XXX-Large |
| XXX-Large |
| XXX-Large |
| XXX-Large |
| XXXX-Large |
| XXXX-Large |
| XXXX-Large |
| XXXX-Large |
| XXXX-Large |
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.
2.1 Issues of Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form part of this PD to the extent specified herein.
2.2 Source of Government Documents. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.
Government Publications
Department of Defense Specifications
| AA-55126B |
| Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop Synthetic |
| MIL-C- 44296 |
| DoD Heraldic Yarn for Embroidery and Ribbon, Cable # HA White 67101 |
(Application for copies of military and Federal documents are available on line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil./quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)
2.3 Other Publications. The following documents form a part of this PD to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply.
Non-Government Publications
THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
| AATCC-61 |
| Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated |
| AATCC-135 |
| Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering |
| AATCC-22 |
| Water Repellency: Spray Test |
| AATCC-118 |
| Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test |
| AATCC-115 |
| Electrostatic Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal Test |
| AATCC-100 |
| Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials |
| AATCC TM 8 |
| Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method |
(Application for copies of the AATCC Technical Manual is available online at www.aatcc.org or should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1 Davis Dr., P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215)
AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)
| ASTM D5034 |
| Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation |
of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
| ASTM D3775 |
| Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) |
of Woven Fabric
| ASTM D3776 |
| Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) |
(Small Swatch of Fabric)
| ASTM D3787 |
| Standard Test Method for Testing Bursting Strength |
of Textiles – Constant-Rate-Of-Traverse (CRT) Ball burst Test
| ASTM E96 |
| Standard Test Method for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials |
| ASTM D1424 |
| Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics |
by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
| ASTM E2149 |
| Standard Test Method for Determining the Antimicrobial Activity |
of Immobilized Antimicrobial Agents Under Dynamic Contact Conditions
| ASTM D6193 |
| Standard Practice for Seams and Stitches |
(Application for copies of ASTMs is available online at www.astm.org or should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbour Dr., West Conshohocken PA 19428-2959.)
THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)/
INTERNATIONAL SAFETY EQUIPMENT ASSOCIATION (ISEA)
| ANSI/ISEA 107 |
| American National Standard for High Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear |
(Application for copies of ANSI/ISEA 107 is available online at www.ansi.org or should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1919 L St. NW, Washington, DC 20036.)
2.3 Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3. CHARACTERISTICS.
3.1 First Article Inspection. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with Section 5.1.2.
3.2 Recycled, Recovered, or Environmentally Preferable Material. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.
3.3 Description. The pants shall be 100% polyester (see Table VI) Air Force blue shade 1651, fully lined with white 100% knit mini-mesh fabric. The pants shall have an all elastic waistband with a drawstring and barrel lock, elastic at the ankles, two side pockets, and slide fasteners for leg bottoms. The lower leg shall have a band of 1/4 inch gray reflective heat transfer stripe. The stripe shall encircle the leg diagonally.
3.3.1 Sewing instructions. All stitching shall be between 10 and 12 stitches per inch with the exception of waist and cuff elastic operations, which may be between 8 and 10 stitches per inch. All topstitching shall finish 1/16 inch from folded edge. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Seams are required to be forced out. Those seams having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more shall be considered a defect (see Table V). All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4 inch. The center front and center back seams and side seams shall be topstitched. The side pocket openings shall be topstitched and bartacked (between 16 and 22 stitches) at the top and bottom of each opening (bartacks shall be 3/8 inch unless otherwise specified). The side seam pocket opening shall have 1 inch by 1/2 inch black hook and loop tape spaced evenly on pocket opening. Hook and loop tape placement to be 2 inches from top opening and 2 inches down from first placement hook and loop placement. The hook portion shall be sewn to the body side and loop portion shall be sewn to the pocket side. The stitching for the elastic waist shall be two rows; one row shall measure 1/4 inch from top of the waistband and the second row 1 (+/–1/16) inch from the top row of stitching (1 inch gauge). The waistband drawstring shall be tied in a knot approximately 1 inch from the end to prevent the barrel lock from coming off. The gray reflective stripe shall be applied via heat transfer prior to sewing in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The stitching for the elastic leg bottom shall finish 7/8 (+/–1/16) inch from bottom of leg. The slide fasteners for the leg bottoms shall be on the outseams of the pant leg and shall not be exposed when closed. Slide fasteners shall finish even with the bottom of the pant leg (+/–1/4) inch. The lining shall be attached to the inside of the slide fastener tape, caught in the stitching for the leg bottom tunnel, and attached at the waist and at the crotch point with a tack using single needle. All thread ends that are visible on the item shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch. Repairs, such as mends, darns, patches or splices, are not permitted on pants. After completion, the finished pants shall be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed.
Table I. Bartack Placement Bartacks PTU Pants
| Bartack Numbers |
| Bartack Location |
| Size of Tack |
| Stitches per Tack |
| # of Bartacks |
| Total # |
| 1 |
| Top of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance |
| 3/8" |
| 16-22 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| 2 |
| Bottom of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance |
| 3/8" |
| 16-22 |
| 1 |
| 2 |
| 3 |
| Superimposed on stitching line at top of elastic pant cuff on both sides of slide fastener |
| 3/8" |
| 16-22 |
| 2 |
| 4 |
Table II. Stitches Stitches PTU Pants
| Seam Placement |
| Seam Type |
| Gauge |
| Stitch Type |
| Side seams, inseams and crotch seams (shell) |
| SSa-1 |
| 1/2 inch gauge |
| 301 or 401 |
| Attachment of bottom pocket to side seam |
| SSa-1 |
| 1/2 inch gauge |
| 301 or 401 |
| Attachment of top pocket to side seam |
| SSc-2 |
| 1/2 inch gauge seam |
| 301 |
| Pocket bag seam |
| SSa-1 |
| 1/2 inch gauge |
| 301 or 401 |
| Top stitching of side seams and crotch seam |
| OSf-1 |
| 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge |
| 301 |
| Side seams, inseams and crotch seams (lining) |
| SSa-1 |
| 1/2 inch gauge |
| 301 or 401 |
| Attachment of labels |
| LSbj-1 |
| 1/8 to 3/16 inch gauge |
| 301 |
| Attachment of leg slide fasteners |
| LSbu-2 |
| 1/4 inch gauge |
| 301 |
| Top stitching of leg slide fasteners |
| OSf-1 |
| 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the fold |
| 301 |
| Attachment of elastic to waist and bottom edge |
| SSa-1 |
| — |
| 502, 503, 504, or 505 |
| Topstitching of waist elastic |
| OSa-2 |
| First row, 1/4 inch from fold. Second row, 1-1/4 inch from fold |
| 301 or 401 |
| Topstitching of leg cuff elastic |
| OSa-1 |
| 7/8 inch from fold |
| 301 or 401 |
| Attachment of hook and loop in pockets |
| OSa-2 |
| First row, 1/16 inch from fold. Second row, 1/4 inch from first row |
| 301 |
| 3.4 | Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity. |
| 3.5 | Materials. |
3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the pants shall be 100% polyester AF blue 1651 shade. The material shall have a finish treatment for water, oil, and soil resistance and quick-drying moisture/management capability or equal. The material shall conform to the requirements in Tables III and IV.
TABLE III. Physical requirements, basic fabric
| Characteristic |
| Requirement |
| Test Method |
| Weight (oz./sq. yd.) |
| 2.2 (+/–0.3) |
| ASTM D3776 Option C |
| Yarns per inch (min.) |
| Warp |
| Filling |
ASTM D3775
| Breaking strength (lbs. min.) |
| Warp |
| Filling |
ASTM D5034
| Tearing strength (min.) |
| Warp |
| Filling |
1.5 2.0
ASTM D1424
| Water Repellency: Spray Test |
| Initial |
| After 10 laundering /1 |
AATCC 22
AATCC 135 Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii
| Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test |
| Initial |
| After 10 launderings /1 |
Pass 5
AATCC 118, #5 (n-dodecane) AATCC 135 Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii
| Moisture Vapor Transfer |
| Inverted |
| Upright |
8000 min 850 min
ASTM E96
Test BW Test B
| Dimensional Stability (post 5 launderings) |
| Warp |
| Fill |
2.5 2.5 AATCC 135 Table I, Method 3, V, A, iii
| Colorfastness to Crocking (min) |
| Wet |
| Dry |
3.0 4.0
AATCC TM 8
| CF to Perspiration |
| Acid |
| Alkaline |
AATCC 15
| CF to Laundering |
| Shade Change |
| Staining (Nylon) |
AATCC 61-1A
/1Additional Testing to be performed once per contract.
* Water Repellency: Spray Test 100 launderings Initial Performed once (see * below)
AATCC-22
AATCC 135 Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii
* Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test 100 launderings Initial
Performed once (see * below)
Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5
AATCC-118
AATCC Table I, 135 Method 3, III, A, iii
* One time initial testing to be performed at the beginning of the production contract only.
3.5.2 Lining. The lining for the pants shall be polyester knit fabric with moisture management and anti-microbial properties and anti-static finishing. The material shall conform to the requirements in Table IV.
TABLE IV. Physical requirements, lining fabric
| Characteristic |
| Requirement |
| Test Method |
| Weight (oz./sq. yd.) |
| 3.0 (+/–0.3) |
| ASTM D3776 Option C |
Courses, meshes per inch (min.)
Wales, meshes per inch (min) Visual /1
| Bursting strength (lbs. min.) |
| 95 |
| ASTM D3787 |
Dimensional Stability (max.) Post 15 Launderings Knit material only
| Courses |
| Wales |
6% 4% AATCC 135 Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii
| Anti-Static |
| Class III |
| AATCC 115 |
| Drying Time (max.) |
| 30 minutes |
| Internal Natick Method/2 |
| Moisture Wicking (max.) |
| 15 cm/30 |
| Internal Natick Method/2 |
| Moisture Vapor Transmission |
| Upright (min) |
3500/m2/24 hour, initial ASTM E96 Test B
Anti- Microbial (lining only) Migratory (initial) Migratory ( post 25 launderings) Non-migratory (initial) Non- migratory (post 25 launderings)
Log 3 or better/99.0% Log 3 or better/99.0%
Log 2 or better/99.0% min.
Log 2 or better/99.0% min
AATCC 100
AATCC 100
ASTM E2149
ASTM E2149
/1 Three specimens in each direction per sample unit.
/2 Drying Time Test Method:
Test Specimens
1. Fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65% RH (+/–2%) and 21°C (+/–1°C) (70°F (+/–2°F)) for a minimum of four hours before testing.
2. Test three specimens from each sample. Each specimen consists of a 2" 2" piece cut wearing gloves. The long dimension should be cut parallel to warp direction. Mark each specimen for identification as a part of the sample set.
Procedure
3. Weight the conditioned sample using a laboratory balance, accurate to the 0.1 g.
4. Place 100 mls of distilled or reverse osmosis water into a 250 ml beaker.
5. Submerge one specimen in the beaker for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged under the water to insure complete wetting.
6. Remove from the specimen and sandwich it between two pieced of unused blotter paper and pass it through the wringer. Leave the piece sandwiched in the wet blotters. Repeat this process for the remaining tow specimens of the same sample.
7. Weigh the blotted specimens one at a time.
8. Record the weight as wet weight.
9. Hang each sample separately to dry in a location that is in conditions of 65% RH (+/–2%) and 21°C (+/–1°C) (70°F (+/–2°F)).
10. Weight the sample to the nearest 0.1 g every 5 minutes recording each weight, until completely dry.
11. This is repeated until all the specimens return to their original dry weight. At this time the overall drying time is calculated by averaging the dry time of all three specimens if all three if they do not dry at the same time.
Notes
The wringer, household laundry type, should be equipped with soft rubber squeeze rolls 5.1–6.4 cm in diameter and 28.0–30.5cm in length, with a hardness of 70–80 when measured using the A Scale of a Shore Durometer. The wringer should be so constructed that the pressure on the top of the piece of fabric is maintained by a dead weight or lever system such that the total pressure (resulting from the total of the dead weight or lever system and the weight of the roller) is 27.2(+/–0.5) kg. It should be power-driven at a constant rate so that the piece of fabric passes through the rolls at a rate of 2.5 cm/s. Also suitable is the Atlas Motorized Laboratory Wringer available from SDL Atlas L.L.C., 1813A Associate Lane, Charlotte, NC 28217; tel: 704/329-0911: fax: 704/329-0914; e-mail: info@sdlatlas.com.
The diameters of the squeeze rolls should be determined with a pair of calipers or directly with a suitable micrometer. Measurements should be made at five different places along the length of each roll, and the average of these measurements taken as the diameter of the roll.
The load applied by the dead weight or lever system should be measured using a spring scale or balance, and suspending the top roll of the wringer from the scale by means of two tapes of equal length. The tapes should be placed between the rolls near their ends and should be provided with a means of holding them sufficiently far apart so that there is no contact between the tapes and the top structural member of the wringer and loading system. The spring scale or balance should be suspended from a suitable rigid support and provided with a turnbuckle or other device for adjusting the height of the scale. The usual precautions concerning the zero correction of spring scales should be observed. The turnbuckle or other device should then be adjusted to place the weight of the top roll and it’s weighting system on the spring scale or balance, and the system should be considered to be in equilibrium when the top roll of the wringer had been lifted just sufficiently from the bottom roll to permit vision between the bottoms of the tapes and the top of the bottom roll. At this point, the dead weight on the loading system should be adjusted until the spring scale or balance indicates a load of 27.7(+/–0.5) kg. The calibration of the spring scale or balance should be certified by the use of known certified dead weights of 24.95, 27.22 and 29.48 (+/0.23) kg total weight. The spring scale should be accurate to within ±0.2268 kg at each of the three verification loads.
The linear speed of the rolls should be measured by feeding a thin steel tape through the rolls. The steel tapes should be at least 150cm long and should be accurate to within 3 mm per 150 cm. The time required for exactly 150 cm of this tape to pass through the nip of the rolls should be measured in s to the nearest second with a stopwatch calibrated in intervals of not more than 0.5 second. The speed of the rolls should be adjusted until the time required for 150 cm of tape to pass through the nip of the roll is 60 (+/–2) seconds.
Blotters suitable for this test can be obtained from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709; tel: 919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail: orders@ aatcc.org Should it be necessary to run only one specimen, a specimen of similar material with respect to weight should be run as ballast with the specimen undergoing test.
The basic material and lining cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Tables I and II using the methods of testing specified therein. The sample unit shall be three yards, full width. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:
| LOT SIZE (YARDS) |
| SAMPLE SIZE (SAMPLE UNITS) |
| 800 or less |
| 2 |
| 801 up to and including 22,000 |
| 3 |
| More than 22,000 |
| 5 |
3.5.3 Reflective material. The reflective trim shall be Air Force gray shade 1655 produced using glass-beaded reflective material (see Table IV). The reflective shall be positioned in accordance to the location indicated on the pattern.
3.5.3.1 Performance. The performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance to the ANSI/ ISEA 107. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements followed by physical testing including abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have an initial level of reflectivity 300–500 cd/lux/m2. The reflective material shall show no signs of delaminating or peeling and shall have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 after 25 wash cycles following AATCC 135 Method 3, III, A, iii. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted (see 5.1.1).
3.5.4 Elastic. All elastic for the pants shall be machine washable and dryable in accordance with Tables III and IV.
3.5.4.1 Waist. The knitted corded type elastic for the pant waist shall have a width of 1 1/2 inches and shall have a white inserted drawstring. The tunnel opening for the drawstring shall be on the inside of the waist; use tuck-in method rather than serging both pieces. Warps of the elastic shall be 20 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 20. The filler shall be 6 ends 1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 20 ends 30 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 42. The elongation of the elastic shall be 120% (+/–10%). The needle width shall be 23 needles. Its cord shall be 12 ends 2/150 semi-dull polyester.
3.5.4.2 Cuffs. The knitted corded-type elastic for the pant cuffs shall have a width of 1 inch. There is no cord in the elastic tunnel. Its warps shall be 15 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 15. The filler shall be 7 ends 1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 15 ends 30 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 52. The elongation of the elastic shall be 160% (+/–10%). The needle width shall be 15 needles.
3.5.5 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the leg shall be closed bottom, single pull, and shall have plastic individual-element teeth, size 3-5. The slide fasteners for the leg bottoms shall have teeth, tape, slider, stops, and pull that are a close match to the color of the AF blue shade 1651 basic material. Slide fasteners shall have a 68-pound (average) cross-wise breaking strength.
3.5.6 Drawstring barrel lock. The barrel lock for the waist drawstring shall be black plastic. The lock shall prevent the drawstring from pulling into the waist tunnel.
3.5.7 Thread. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the AF blue shade 1651 basic material. The needle and bobbin shall be T-30 in size and the loopers shall be T-24. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used on commercial threads.
3.6 Labels. A commercial type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed label containing the contractor’s name, contract number, size, and National Stock Number (NSN) is sewn in with the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information, as noted below. The label shall have good colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC-61. The label should be placed two inches below the bottom of the internal waistband, securely stitched on all four sides, over the center back seam, and only stitched through the lining, not the outer shell. A 2 inch by 3 inch blank rectangular label shall be sewn on all four sides, over the center back seam, and only stitched through the lining, not the outer shell. The label shall have the following text:
Machine wash cold mild detergent cold rinse Tumble dry low Do not use bleach Do not iron Do not use fabric softener or fabric softener sheets
3.6.1 Certification. For certification purposes the PTU pants shall include the following text:
“This garment is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of Purchase Description CRFD/PD 04-1 Revision D and was produced under Certificate Number __________ from basic material warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate _________ Lot # __________.”
Certification information may be placed where dictated by AAFES via the contract.
3.6.2 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate that has a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a ho1e and shal1 be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be medium to high density. The barcode for NSN and UPC shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when it is fo1ded and/or packaged as specified and so the tag causes no damage to the item. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.
3.6.3 Hang tag. The advertising hang tag shall be attached to the pants so that it is visible when packaged or hung. The attachment of the hang tag shall cause no damage to the pants. A sample of the hang tag may be obtained from the contracting activity.
3.6.4 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns shall be furnished by the Government in AccuMark electronic format. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Also minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements. The patterns shall provide 1/2 inch seam allowances. Slide fasteners shall be set with a single-lap method.
3.6.5 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the pants shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated:
| Material |
| Pattern Nomenclature |
| CAD Name |
| Cut Parts |
| Basic material |
| Front |
| FRONT |
| 2 |
| Back |
| BACK |
| 2 |
| PKT |
| 4 |
| Lining material |
| Front |
| FLIN |
| 2 |
| Back |
| BLIN |
| 2 |
3.6.6 Figures. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. In the event of any inconsistencies between the written PD and the figures, the written PD shall govern.
3.7 Finished measurements. The pants shall conform to the finished measurements (given in inches) in Tables Va through Vb.
TABLE Va. Finished measurements, pants
SIZES
(A) 1/2 Waist (relaxed) (B) 1/2Waist (stretched) (C) 1/2 Seat (D) 1/2 Thigh (E) 1/2 Leg opening. relaxed (F) Pocket opening
| XX-Small / All lengths |
| 10 1/2 |
| 17 |
| 19 3/4 |
| 13 1/8 |
| 5 |
| 6 1/2 |
| X-Small / All lengths |
| 12 |
| 18 1/2 |
| 21 1/4 |
| 14 |
| 5 1/2 |
| 6 1/2 |
| Small / All lengths |
| 13 1/2 |
| 20 |
| 22 3/4 |
| 14 7/8 |
| 6 |
| 6 1/2 |
| Medium / All lengths |
| 15 |
| 21 1/2 |
| 24 1/4 |
| 15 3/4 |
| 6 1/2 |
| 7 1/2 |
| Large / All lengths |
| 16 1/2 |
| 23 |
| 25 3/4 |
| 16 5/8 |
| 7 |
| 7 1/2 |
| X-Large / All lengths |
| 18 |
| 24 1/2 |
| 27 1/4 |
| 17 1/2 |
| 7 1/2 |
| 7 1/2 |
| XX-Large / All lengths |
| 20 |
| 26 1/2 |
| 29 1/4 |
| 18 5/8 |
| 8 |
| 7 1/2 |
| XXX-Large / All lengths |
| 22 |
| 28 1/2 |
| 31 1/4 |
| 19 3/4 |
| 8 |
| 7 1/2 |
| XXXX-Large / All lengths |
| 24 |
| 30 1/2 |
| 33 1/4 |
| 20 7/8 |
| 8 |
| 7 1/2 |
| Tolerance |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/4 |
| +/– 1/4 |
TABLE Vb. Finished measurements, pants
| SIZES/LENGTHS |
| (G) |
Front Rise (H) Back Rise (I) Inseam (J) Outseam (K) Leg Slide Fastener
| XX Small/X Short |
| 9 3/4 |
| 13 1/4 |
| 27 |
| 34 1/8 |
| 10 |
| XX Small/Short |
| 10 1/4 |
| 13 3/4 |
| 29 |
| 36 5/8 |
| 10 |
| XX Small/Regular |
| 10 3/4 |
| 14 1/4 |
| 31 |
| 39 1/8 |
| 12 |
| X Small/X Short |
| 10 1/4 |
| 13 3/4 |
| 27 |
| 34 1/2 |
| 10 |
| X Small/Short |
| 10 3/4 |
| 14 1/4 |
| 29 |
| 37 |
| 10 |
| X Small/Regular |
| 11 1/4 |
| 14 3/4 |
| 31 |
| 39 1/2 |
| 12 |
| X Small/Long |
| 11 3/4 |
| 15 1/4 |
| 33 |
| 42 |
| 14 |
| X Small/X long |
| 12 1/4 |
| 15 3/4 |
| 35 |
| 44 1/2 |
| 14 |
| Small/X Short |
| 10 3/4 |
| 14 1/4 |
| 27 |
| 34 7/8 |
| 10 |
| Small/Short |
| 11 1/4 |
| 14 3/4 |
| 29 |
| 37 3/8 |
| 10 |
| Small/Regular |
| 11 3/4 |
| 15 1/4 |
| 31 |
| 39 7/8 |
| 12 |
| Small/Long |
| 12 1/4 |
| 15 3/4 |
| 33 |
| 42 3/8 |
| 14 |
| Small/X long |
| 12 3/4 |
| 16 1/4 |
| 35 |
| 44 7/8 |
| 14 |
| Medium/X Short |
| 11 1/4 |
| 14 3/4 |
| 27 |
| 35 1/4 |
| 10 |
| Medium/Short |
| 11 3/4 |
| 15 1/4 |
| 29 |
| 37 3/4 |
| 10 |
| Medium/Regular |
| 12 1/4 |
| 15 3/4 |
| 31 |
| 40 1/4 |
| 12 |
| Medium/Long |
| 12 3/4 |
| 16 1/4 |
| 33 |
| 42 3/4 |
| 14 |
| Medium/X long |
| 13 1/4 |
| 16 3/4 |
| 35 |
| 45 1/4 |
| 14 |
| Large/X Short |
| 11 3/4 |
| 15 1/4 |
| 27 |
| 35 5/8 |
| 10 |
| Large/Short |
| 12 1/4 |
| 15 3/4 |
| 29 |
| 38 1/8 |
| 10 |
| Large/Regular |
| 12 3/4 |
| 16 1/4 |
| 31 |
| 40 5/8 |
| 12 |
| Large/Long |
| 13 1/4 |
| 16 3/4 |
| 33 |
| 43 1/8 |
| 14 |
| Large/X long |
| 13 3/4 |
| 17 1/4 |
| 35 |
| 45 5/8 |
| 14 |
| X Large/X Short |
| 12 1/8 |
| 15 5/8 |
| 27 |
| 35 7/8 |
| 10 |
| X Large/Short |
| 12 5/8 |
| 16 1/8 |
| 29 |
| 38 3/8 |
| 10 |
| X Large/Regular |
| 13 1/8 |
| 16 5/8 |
| 31 |
| 40 7/8 |
| 12 |
| X Large/Long |
| 13 5/8 |
| 17 1/8 |
| 33 |
| 43 3/8 |
| 14 |
| X Large/X long |
| 14 1/8 |
| 17 5/8 |
| 35 |
| 45 7/8 |
| 14 |
| XX Large/X Short |
| 12 1/2 |
| 16 |
| 27 |
| 36 1/8 |
| 10 |
| XX Large/Short |
| 13 |
| 16 1/4 |
| 29 |
| 38 5/8 |
| 10 |
| XX Large/Regular |
| 13 1/2 |
| 17 |
| 31 |
| 41 1/8 |
| 12 |
| XX Large/Long |
| 14 |
| 17 1/4 |
| 33 |
| 43 7/8 |
| 14 |
| XX Large/X long |
| 14 1/2 |
| 18 |
| 35 |
| 46 1/8 |
| 14 |
| XXX Large/Regular |
| 13 5/8 |
| 17 1/8 |
| 31 |
| 41 1/8 |
| 12 |
| XXX Large/Long |
| 14 1/8 |
| 17 5/8 |
| 33 |
| 43 5/8 |
| 14 |
| XXX Large/X long |
| 14 5/8 |
| 18 1/8 |
| 35 |
| 46 1/8 |
| 14 |
| XXXX Large/Regular |
| 13 3/4 |
| 17 1/4 |
| 31 |
| 41 1/8 |
| 12 |
| XXXX Large/Long |
| 14 1/4 |
| 17 3/4 |
| 33 |
| 43 5/8 |
| 14 |
| XXXX Large/X long |
| 14 3/4 |
| 18 1/4 |
| 35 |
| 46 1/8 |
| 14 |
| Tolerance |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/2 |
| +/– 1/8 |
Method of measuring garment (with pants on flat surface):
1. 1/2 Waist (relaxed). Measure across top of pants with waist flat.
1. 1/2 Waist (stretched). Measure across top of pants with waist extended.
1. 1/2 Seat: Measure from side seam to side seam using three points (8 inches down from top of waistband at center front and at the bottom of each pocket at the side seams).
1. 1/2 Thigh: Measure parallel to leg opening from folded edge to folded edge at crotch.
1. 1/2 Leg Opening: Measure from inseam to outseam at leg bottom, with elastic relaxed.
1. Pocket Opening: Measure the pocket opening at the side seam between the bartacks.
1. Front Rise: Measure along front center seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.
1. Back Rise: Measure along back center seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch point.
1. Inseam: Measure seam from crotch point to bottom of leg.
1. Outseam: Measure length of side seam from top of waistband to bottom of leg.
1. Leg Slide Fastener: Measure length of slide fastener from stop to stop.
4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials, to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).
5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.
5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the characteristics of this PD and shall conform to the producer’s own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.
5.1.1 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.
5.1.2 First Article Inspection. When a first article is required, the inspection shall be specified for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of any defect or failure shall be cause for rejection of the first article.
5.2 Visual examination. Each pair of pants shall be examined for the defects listed below (see Table VI).
TABLE VI. Defects
| Material Defects and Workmanship Damages |
| Major |
| Minor |
A Minor B
| a. | Any hole |
| * |
| b. | Abrasion damaging the fabric |
| * |
| c. | Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole. |
| * |
| d. | Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside of pants |
| * |
| e. | Needle chew that might develop into hole |
| * |
| f. | Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn |
| * |
g. Needle holes in outer fabric
X
Shaded Parts
| a. | Any shaded parts on outside of pants |
| * |
| b. | Color not as specified |
| X |
C Cleanliness
a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of pants
X
b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of pants
X
c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of pants or two or more markings not removed
X
Components
| a. | Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein) |
| * |
| b. | Any component part omitted (not classified herein) |
| * |
| c. | Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements. |
| * |
| d. | Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full to the degree that serviceability or appearance is affected. |
| * |
C Bartacks
a. One bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.
X
b. Two bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.
X
| c. | Three or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. |
| X |
d. Any bartack not specified length
X
S Seams and Stitching
| a. | Seam distorted, twisted, pleated, or puckered |
| * |
| b. | Any part of pants caught in unrelated operation or stitching |
| * |
c. Thread(s) used on outside of pants not same shade of not satisfactorily matching shade of pants
X
d. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked
X
e. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of pants
X
f. Gauge of stitching (edge, or top stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance
X
g. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified
X
h. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch 2/
X
i. Open seam over 1/4 inch 2/
X
j. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 in inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/
X
k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/
X
l. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of pants 3/
X
m. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of pants 3/
X
n. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of pants 3/
X
o. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of pants 3/
X
p. Run offs more than ½ inch but not more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/
X
q. Run offs more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/
X
r. Seam or stitch not specified type
X
| s. | Loose tension resulting in loose seam |
| X |
t. Loose tension on edge or top stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread
X
u. Tight tension 5/
X
v. Stitches per inch on major portion of pants one or two less than specified
X
w. Stitches per inch on major portion of pants three less than specified
X
| x. | Stitches per inch on major portion of pants four or more less than specified |
| X |
y. Stitches per inch on major portion of pants more than specified
X
z. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more
X
aa. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced
X
| bb. | Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability |
| X |
cc. Topstitching not finishing as specified
X
dd. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch
X
Reflective Heat Transfer
| a. | Heat transfer stripe applied incorrectly |
| * |
| b. | Heat transfer stripe placement not as specified |
| * |
Labels
| a. | Label missing or size marking omitted, incorrect, or illegible |
| X |
b. Information (except size) missing, incorrect, or illegible
X
c. Label not stitched on four sides
X
Pockets
a. Pockets not similar in shape
X
b. Pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch
X
Waistband
a. Pants twisted or pleated by stitching forming waistband
X
b. Distance between stitch lines on waistband less than 7/8 inch or more than 1-1/8 inch
X
c. Waistband stitching varying more than 1/8 inch
X
d. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed
X
e. Waistband curling
X
f. Drawstring barrel lock broken
X
g. Drawcord missing or not functioning
X
Pant Legs
| a. | Pant leg sagging, twisted, bulging, or short caused by shortness, tightness, or lining not correctly positioned |
| * |
b. Pant lining too long, causing lining to sag at bottom
X
Pant Cuffs
a. Pant cuffs twisted or pleated by stitching forming cuffs
X
b. Width of finished pant cuff less than 3/4 inch or more than 1 inch
X
c. Pant cuff fullness not evenly distributed
X
d. Pant cuff curling
X
Slide Fasteners
a. Length of closed slide fasteners uneven at bottom more than 1/4 inch
X
b. Slide fastener tape set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging on opening, affecting appearance while open or closed
X
| c. | Slide fastener not specified type, size, or style or any part of assembly omitted, bent, or broken |
| X |
| d. | Pant stitched too closed to plastic molded chain, not permitting slider to pass. |
| X |
Hook and Loop Tape
a. Hook and loop fasteners at pocket misplaced, loose, or defective
X
b. Hook and loop fasteners not specified dimension
X
Dimensions
| a. | Measurement of item not as specified |
| X |
Bar Codes and Packaging
a. Bar code or UPC code omitted or not readable by scanner
b. Human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible
c. Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item
e. Bar code causes damage to the item
e. Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order
| * | Defects marked with an asterisk are major defects if they affect serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability. |
| 1/ | If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is nonweakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein. |
| 2/ | A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge or top stitching) shall be classified as an open seam. |
| 3/ | A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam. |
| 4/ | Run offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams. |
5/Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.
5.3 Acceptable criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.
6. PACKAGING.
6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be specified in the contract or purchase order.
7. NOTES.
7.1 Sources. Based on previous Request for Information (RFI) the following companies have shown/demonstrated interest. These sources provided components for fit/wear/production of previous wear test garments.
Table IV. Sources
| Item |
| Source |
| Basic Material |
| Defend 100% polyester, AF blue shade 1651 or equal |
| Basic Material Finish |
| Nanosphere® finished treatment for water, oil, and soil resistance or equal |
| Lining Material |
| White 100% polyester Amy/Sorbtek® mini-mesh or equal |
| Fusible Interlining |
| QST UF546 or equal |
| Reflective Material |
| Safe Reflections, Inc. Airex Colorized (Aqua-Teal) 3M #8710 glass-beaded reflective material(or Air Force gray shade 1655) or equal |
| Elastic |
| Asheboro Elastic Products, style number QCO-4404AFO or equal |
| Elastic |
| Asheboro Elastic Products, style number 100-1243AFO or equal |
| Slide Fastener |
| YKK, style number VSC-36 DA E 1/2 or equal |
| Toggle |
| American Cord & Webbing Company, style number 93764 or equal |
PREPARING ACTIVITY: ASC/WNUV-TAC
Air Force Uniform Office 1901 Tenth St., Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, OH 45433-7605
FIGURE 1. Pants, PT, front, right side, and back views image1.jpeg
File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .