CRFD-PD_04-08D_IPTU-Jacket-100930.docx

FA7000-14-D-0004

CRFD/PD 04-08

Revision D 30 September 2010

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

JACKET, IMPROVED, PHYSICAL TRAINING UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the DLA Troop Support and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE. This Purchase Description (PD) covers the requirements for the Physical Training Uniform (PTU) jacket. The improved jacket is intended for wear by U.S. Air Force personnel (USAF).

1.1 Classification. The jacket shall be of one type in the following sizes and lengths:

NOTE: Lengths and sizes shown are for tariff sizes only. Additional sizes are available, as follows:

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 Issues of Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form part of the PD to the extent specified herein.

2.2 Source of Government Documents. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

Government Publications

Department of Defense Specifications

Cable # HA White 67101

(Application for copies of military and Federal documents are available on line at http://assist.daps.dla.mil./quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3 Other Publications. The following documents form a part of this PD to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply.

Non-Government Publications

THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

(Application for copies of the AATCC Technical Manual is available online at www.aatcc.org or should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, 1 Davis Dr., P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

and Filling (Pick) of Woven Fabric

(Small Swatch of Fabric)

of Textiles – Constant-Rate-Of-Traverse (CRT) Ball burst Test

by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus

(Application for copies of ASTMs is available online at www.astm.org or should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbour Dr., West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

THE AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI)/

INTERNATIONAL SAFETY EQUIPMENT ASSOCIATION (ISEA)

(Application for copies of ANSI/ISEA 107 is available online at www.ansi.org or should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 1919 L St. NW, Washington, DC 20036.)

2.4 Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. CHARACTERISTICS.

3.1 First Article. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with Section 5.1.2.

3.2 Description. The jacket shall be 100% polyester (see Table VII) AF blue shade 1651, fully lined with white 100% polyester mini-mesh. The jacket shall have long raglan-styled sleeves, collar, two welt pockets, and elastic at the wrists and jacket bottom (see Figure 3). The jacket shall have a full front opening slide fastener and its pockets shall have slide fasteners. The jacket shall have a 4 1/2 inch (+/–1/4 inch) dart at top of sleeve on shoulder. The jacket shall be trimmed with colorized reflective material (see Table VII) Air Force gray shade 1655 that is 2 inches (+/–1/8 inch) in width forming a V-stripe from armhole to armhole across the front and across the width of both sleeves and a V-stripe across the back. All V-striping shall be bordered on top and bottom with a 1/4 inch white unfilled piping.

3.2.1 Sewing instructions. All stitching shall be between10 and 12 stitches per inch. All topstitching shall finish 1/16 inch from folded edge. The stitching for the elastic at jacket bottom shall be two rows; one row shall measure 1/4 inch from bottom fold and the second row shall measure 1 inch (+/–1/16) from the first row of stitching. The stitching for the wrist elastic shall finish 7/8 inch (+/–1/16 inch) from the bottom edge of sleeve. The two front pockets shall each have a welt measuring 1 1/4 (+/–1/8) inches in width with a bartack at the top and bottom of each welt opening (bartacks shall be 3/8 inch unless otherwise specified). Both welts and top collar shall have fusible interlining, non-woven thermal-bonded polyester with a 30 mesh polyamide adhesive (see Table VI). The armhole seams shall be topstitched. The reflective trim (see 3.5.3) shall be positioned in accordance to the location indicated on the pattern. The mitered seams of the 2 inch reflective and 1/4 inch white nylon piping shall match. The piping shall be tacked down at the top and at the bottom of the “V”. The collar shall have a finished width of 2 1/2 (+/–1/4) inches for all sizes at center back. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Seams required to be forced out, and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch and more, shall be considered a defect (see Table VI). All seams that junction shall meet within 1/4 inch. The lining shall be tacked to the outershell at the underarm seam with white thread. Lining stitches shall be single needle lockstitch. Repairs, such as mends, darns, patches or splices, are not permitted on jackets. Each bartack shall contain between 16 and 22 stitches. After completion, the finished jackets shall be thoroughly cleaned and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed.

Table I. Bartack Placement Bartacks PTU Jacket

Table II. Stitches Placement Stitches PTU Jacket

3.2.2 Embroidery description. The embroidered Wing symbol and U.S. Air Force text shall be placed on the left front (see Figure 1). Placement instructions are for cut pieces. For vertical placement, the bottom of the embroidery shall measure 1/2 the distance between the neck edge and the top notch of the reflective stripe placement at center front. The horizontal placement of the embroidery shall be 1/2 the distance from the center front to the top notch of the reflective stripe placement at the sleeve setting seam, plus 1 inch toward center front. The letter “E” of the word FORCE shall be no closer than 1/4 inch from the piping of the top of the V-stripe. The Air Force symbol shall be embroidered in a polyester thread conforming to DoD Heraldic Yarn for Embroidery and Ribbon, Cable # HA White 67101 with a stiff backing. The embroidery backing shall be a pellon cut around and trimmed to 1/2 inch to 1 inch around the design. The total stitch count of the symbol and lettering shall be 4,631stitches minimum. The Wing symbol is to fit within a 2 inch by 2 1/8 inch square. There shall be a 1/4 inch space between the symbol’s lowest point and the top of the U.S. AIR FORCE text (see Figure 2). The U.S. AIR FORCE text shall be 1/4 inch high, 3 1/4 inches long, and the font is Berthord Aklindenz Grotesk bold extended (see Figure 2). If Berthord Aklindenz Grotesk is not available, all capital Arial bold font, 24 point shall be used. All thread ends that are visible on the item shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable material. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and unless otherwise indicated, shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. Standard sample may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.4.1 Finished embroidery. The finished embroidery shall meet the requirements of this PD for size, stitch count, and finished appearance (see Section 3.2.2).

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the jacket shall be 100% polyester, AF blue shade 1651. The material shall have a finish treatment for water, oil, and soil resistance and quick-drying moisture/management capability. The material shall conform to the requirements in Table III.

TABLE III. Physical requirements, basic fabric

ASTM D3775

ASTM D5034

1.5 2.0

ASTM D1424

AATCC 22

AATCC 135, Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii

Pass 5

AATCC 118, #5 (n-dodecane) AATCC 135, Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii

8000 min 850 min

ASTM E96

Test BW Test B

2.5 2.5 AATCC 135, Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii

3.0 4.0

AATCC TM 8

AATCC 15

AATCC 61-1A

/1 Additional Testing to be performed once per contract.

* Water Repellency: Spray Test 100 launderings Initial Performed once (see * below)

AATCC-22

AATCC 135, Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii

* Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test 100 launderings Initial

Performed once (see * below)

Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5 Pass 5

AATCC-118

AATCC 135, Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii

* One time initial testing to be performed at the beginning of the production contract only.

3.5.2 Lining. The lining for the jacket shall be polyester knit fabric with moisture management and anti-microbial properties and anti-static finishing. The material shall conform to the requirements in Table IV.

TABLE IV. Physical requirements, lining fabric

Courses, meshes per inch (min.)

Wales, meshes per inch (min) Visual /1

Dimensional Stability (max.) Post 15 Launderings Knit material only

6% 5% AATCC 135 Table I, Method 3, III, A, iii

3500g/m2/24 hour, initial ASTM E96 Test B

Anti- Microbial (lining only) Migratory (initial) Migratory ( post 25 launderings) Non-migratory (initial) Non- migratory (post 25 launderings)

Log 3 or better/99.0% Log 3 or better/99.0%

Log 2 or better/99.0% min.

Log 2 or better/99.0% min

AATCC 100

AATCC 100

ASTM E2149

ASTM E2149

/1 Three specimens in each direction per sample unit.

/2 Drying Time Test Method:

Test Specimens

1. Fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65% RH (+/–2%) and 21°C (+/–1°C) (70°F (+/–2°F)) for a minimum of four hours before testing.

2. Test three specimens from each sample. Each specimen consists of a 2" 2" piece cut wearing gloves. The long dimension should be cut parallel to warp direction. Mark each specimen for identification as a part of the sample set.

Procedure

3. Weight the conditioned sample using a laboratory balance, accurate to the 0.1 g.

4. Place 100 mls of distilled or reverse osmosis water into a 250 ml beaker.

5. Submerge one specimen in the beaker for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged under the water to insure complete wetting.

6. Remove from the specimen and sandwich it between two pieced of unused blotter paper and pass it through the wringer. Leave the piece sandwiched in the wet blotters. Repeat this process for the remaining tow specimens of the same sample.

7. Weigh the blotted specimens one at a time.

8. Record the weight as wet weight.

9. Hang each sample separately to dry in a location that is in conditions of 65% RH (+/–2%) and 21°C (+/–1°C) (70°F (+/–2°F)).

10. Weight the sample to the nearest 0.1g every 5 minutes recording each weight, until completely dry.

11. This is repeated until all the specimens return to their original dry weight. At this time the overall drying time is calculated by averaging the dry time of all three specimens if all three if they do not dry at the same time.

Notes

The wringer, household laundry type, should be equipped with soft rubber squeeze rolls 5.1–6.4 cm in diameter and 28.0–30.5cm in length, with a hardness of 70-80 when measured using the A Scale of a Shore Durometer. The wringer should be so constructed that the pressure on the top of the piece of fabric is maintained by a dead weight or lever system such that the total pressure (resulting from the total of the dead weight or lever system and the weight of the roller) is 27.2 (+/–0.5) kg. It should be power-driven at a constant rate so that the piece of fabric passes through the rolls at a rate of 2.5 cm/s. Also suitable is the Atlas Motorized Laboratory Wringer available from SDL Atlas L.L.C., 1813A Associate Lane, Charlotte, NC 28217; tel: 704/329-0911: fax: 704/329-0914; e-mail: info@sdlatlas.com.

The diameters of the squeeze rolls should be determined with a pair of calipers or directly with a suitable micrometer. Measurements should be made at five different places along the length of each roll, and the average of these measurements taken as the diameter of the roll.

The load applied by the dead weight or lever system should be measured using a spring scale or balance, and suspending the top roll of the wringer from the scale by means of two tapes of equal length. The tapes should be placed between the rolls near their ends and should be provided with a means of holding them sufficiently far apart so that there is no contact between the tapes and the top structural member of the wringer and loading system. The spring scale or balance should be suspended from a suitable rigid support and provided with a turnbuckle or other device for adjusting the height of the scale. The usual precautions concerning the zero correction of spring scales should be observed. The turnbuckle or other device should then be adjusted to place the weight of the top roll and its weighting system on the spring scale or balance, and the system should be considered to be in equilibrium when the top roll of the wringer had been lifted just sufficiently from the bottom roll to permit vision between the bottoms of the tapes and the top of the bottom roll. At this point, the dead weight on the loading system should be adjusted until the spring scale or balance indicates a load of 27.7 (+/–0.5) kg. The calibration of the spring scale or balance should be certified by the use of known certified dead weights of 24.95, 27.22, and 29.48 (+/–0.23) kg total weight. The spring scale should be accurate to within +/–0.2268 kg at each of the three verification loads.

The linear speed of the rolls should be measured by feeding a thin steel tape through the rolls. The steel tapes should be at least 150cm long and should be accurate to within 3 mm per 150 cm. The time required for exactly 150 cm of this tape to pass through the nip of the rolls should be measured in s to the nearest s with a stopwatch calibrated in intervals of not more than 0.5 s. The speed of the rolls should be adjusted until the time required for 150 cm of tape to pass through the nip of the roll is 60(+/–2) s.

Blotters suitable for this test can be obtained from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709; tel: 919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail: orders@ aatcc.org Should it be necessary to run only one specimen, a specimen of similar material with respect to weight should be run as ballast with the specimen undergoing test.

The basic material and lining cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in Tables III and IV using the methods of testing specified therein. The sample unit shall be three yards, full width. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more units or the lot average fail to meet any test requirement specified. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

3.5.3 Reflective material. The reflective trim shall be Air Force gray shade 1655 produced using a glass-beaded reflective material. The reflective material shall be 2 inches (+/– 1/8 to 3/16 inch) in finished width. Edges shall be turned under 1/4 inch. It shall be attached to a 1/4 inch folded optic white piping.

3.5.3.1 Performance. The performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance to the ANSI/ ISEA 107. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements followed by physical testing including abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have an initial level of reflectivity 300–500 cd/lux/m2. The reflective material shall show no signs of delaminating or peeling and shall have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 after 25 wash cycles following AATCC 135 Method 3, III, A, iii. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted (see Section 5.1.1).

3.5.4 Pocketing. The material for the front slash pockets shall be 100% polyester/nylon, black, lightweight (3–4 ounces) brushed fabric, machine washable and dryable, and suitable for the intended purpose.

3.5.5 Elastic. All elastic for the jacket shall be machine washable and dryable in accordance with Tables III and IV.

3.5.5.1 Waist. The knitted corded elastic for the jacket waist shall have width of 1 1/2 inches. Its warps shall be 22 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 22. The filler shall be 7 ends 1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 22 ends 30 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 53. The elongation of the elastic shall be 160% (+/–10%). The needle width shall be 22 needles.

3.5.5.2 Cuffs. The knitted corded elastic for the wrist shall have a width of 1 inch. Its warps shall be 15 ends 1/50 semi-dull polyester and the total warp ends shall be 15. The filler shall be 7 ends 1/150 semi-dull polyester. The elastic element shall be 15 ends 30 gauge rubber. The number of finished picks per inch shall be 52. The elongation of the elastic shall be 160% (+/–10%). The needle width shall be 15 needles.

3.5.6 Slide fasteners. The teeth, tape, slider, stops, and pull of all slide fasteners shall approximate the color of AF blue shade 1651 basic material. The slide fastener for the jacket front closure shall be a separating, single-pull slide fastener and shall have plastic individual-element teeth, size 3-5, with a 68-pound (average) crosswise breaking strength. The slide fasteners shall have a single locking slider. The front welt pocket slide fasteners shall be closed top and bottom, single pull, and shall have plastic individual-element teeth, size 3-5.

3.5.7 Thread. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the AF blue shade 1651 basic material except for the topstitching on the gray reflective, which shall be a good match to the reflective color. The needle and bobbin shall be T-30 in size and the loopers shall be T-24. The finished thread shall have no chemical finishes or treatments other than those commonly used on commercial threads.

3.5.8 Fusible Interlining: Both welt pockets and top collar shall have fusible interlining, conforming to MIL-C- 44296, Type 5, Class I, Style B. Instructions for the temperature, dwell time, and pressure shall be provided by fusible manufacturer.

3.5.9 Labels. A commercial type label is acceptable, provided that an additional printed label containing the contractor’s name, contract number, size, and National Stock Number (NSN) is sewn in with the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber and laundering information, as noted below. The label shall have good colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC-61. The label shall be stitched 1 inch below collar seam at center back and shall be stitched on all four sides. The label shall have the following text:

Machine wash cold mild detergent cold rinse Tumble dry low Do not use bleach Do not iron Do not use fabric softener or fabric softener sheets

3.5.10 Certification. For certification purposes the PTU jacket shall include the following text:

“This garment is warranted to meet or exceed the standards of Purchase Description CRFD/PD 04-08 Revision D and was produced under Certificate Number __________ from basic material warranted by the manufacturer to have been produced in accordance with the sample under current certificate _________ Lot # __________.”

Certification information may be placed where dictated by AAFES via the contract.

3.5.11 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate that has a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a ho1e and shal1 be attached to each item by a fastener. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials “UPC” must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be medium to high density. The barcode for NSN and UPC shall be located so they are completely visible on the item when it is fo1ded and/or packaged as specified and so the tag causes no damage to the item. This UPC code must also be placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.5.12 Hang tag. The advertising hang tag shall be attached to the jacket so that it is visible when packaged or hung. The attachment of the hang tag shall cause no damage to the jacket. A sample of the hang tag may be obtained from the contracting activity.

3.6 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns shall be furnished by the Government in AccuMark electronic format. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Also minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements. A 1/2 inch seam allowance shall be used to set sleeves, make pockets, join lining sides, and set sleeve linings. A 1/4 inch seam allowance shall be used to make the pocket flaps, set the pocket flaps, make the collar, and set the collar. The seam allowance for the front slide fastener varies depending upon the size of the fastener tape. Maintain a 1/4 inch seam allowance for white unfilled piping sewn to the reflective.

3.6.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated:

Pocket Welt

COLLAR

WELT

3.7 Figures. Figures 1 through 3 are furnished for information purposes only. In the event of any inconsistencies between the written PD and the figures, the written PD shall govern.

3.8 Finished measurements. The jackets shall conform to the finished measurements of (given in inches) Tables Va through Vd.

TABLE Va. Finished measurements, jacket

Opening (B)

Opening (D)

TABLE Vb. Finished measurements, jacket

TABLE Vc. Finished measurements, jacket

SIZES

Method of measuring garment (with jacket on a flat surface):

(A) 1/2 Chest: Measure at base of armhole, flat across the chest.

(B) Armhole opening: Measure front armhole seam from neck seam to base of armhole.

(C) 1/2 Bicep: Measure at base of armhole, flat across the sleeve.

(D) Sleeve opening (Half of cuff opening circumference): With elastic cuff flat and relaxed, measure from folded edge to folded edge across cuff at bottom of sleeve.

(E) 1/2 Waist relaxed: Measure across bottom of jacket, with elastic waist flat and relaxed, from folded edge to folded edge.

(F) Neck Circumference: On the inside of the garment, measure along the collar joining seam, not including zipper.

(G) Collar length: Measure along top edge of collar from right front to left front, not including zipper.

(H) Center front collar height: Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center front.

(I) Center back collar height: Measure from base of collar to top of collar at center back.

(J) Back length: Measure from bottom of collar to jacket bottom, including elastic waist.

(K) Underarm sleeve: Measure from base of armhole to sleeve bottom, including elastic cuff.

TABLE Vd. Finished measurements, jacket Measurements, Slide Fasteners *

Tolerance

* Measurement is from top stop to bottom stop.

4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials, to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR).

5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS.

5.1 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the characteristics of this PD and shall conform to the manufacturer’s own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

5.1.1 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5.1.2 First Article Inspection. When a first article is required, the inspection shall be specified for compliance with design, construction, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of any defect or failure shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

5.2 Visual examination. Each jacket shall be examined for the defects listed below (see Table VI).

TABLE VI. Defects

A Minor B

g. Needle holes in outer fabric

X

Shaded Parts

C Cleanliness

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of jacket

X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of jacket

X

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of jacket or two or more markings not removed

X

Components

Bartacks

a. One bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

b. Two bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

d. Any bartack not specified length

X

S Seams and Stitching

d. Thread(s) used on outside of jacket not same shade of not satisfactorily matching shade of jacket

X

e. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked

X

f. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of jacket

X

g. Gauge of stitching (edge, top, or raise stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

X

h. Gauge of stitching (edge, top, or raise stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified

X

i. Open seam more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 2/

X

j. Open seam more than 1/4 inch 2/

X

k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 in inch (on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

X

l. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

X

m. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of jacket 3/

X

n. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of jacket 3/

X

o. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of jacket 3/

X

p. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of jacket 3/

X

q. Run offs more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on edge, top, or raise stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

r. Run offs more than 1 inch on edge, top, or raise stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

s. Seam or stitch not specified type

X

u. Loose tension on edge, top, or raise stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread

X

v. Tight tension 5/

X

w. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket one or two less than specified

X

x. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket three less than specified

X

z. Stitches per inch on major portion of jacket more than specified

X

aa. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more

X

bb. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced

X

dd. Topstitching not finishing as specified

X

ee. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch

X

Embroidery

a. Air Force symbol and embroidery text containing loose stitches

X

Labels

b. Information (except size) missing, incorrect, or illegible

X

c. Label not stitched on four sides

X

Welt Pockets

b. Welt pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch

X

Bottom Hem

a. Jacket twisted or pleated by stitching forming bottom hem

X

b. Width of finished bottom hem less than 1 inch or more than 1 3/8 inch

X

c. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed

X

d. Waistband curling

X

Collar

a. Collar tight at joining to neck seam causing puckers or pleats on fronts, back, or facings

X

b. Collar edges irregular

X

c. Collar points poorly shaped or not uniform shape or size

X

d. Topcollar tight; i.e., causing edge of collar to curl or bulging on undercollar

X

e. Topcollar badly twisted, puckered, or full

X

f. Interlining tight or twisted causing puckers on undercollar

X

g. Finished width of collar at center back less than 2 3/8 inches or more than 2 5/8 inches

X

Cuff

a. Cuff full or twisted, affecting appearance

X

Sleeves

b. Sleeve fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area

X

c. Sleeve lining too long, causing lining to sag at bottom

X

Side Seams, Fronts, and Front Closure

a. Back overlapping front at side seam

X

b. Length of closed fronts uneven at neck or at bottom 1/4 inch or more

X

c. Slide fastener tape set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging on opening, affecting appearance while open or closed

X

f. Top edge of slide fastener more than 1/4 inch from finished edge of neckline

X

Dimensions

Bar Codes and Packaging

a. Bar code or UPC code omitted or not readable by scanner

b. Human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible

c. Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item

d. Bar code causes damage to the item

e. Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

6. PACKAGING.

6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be specified in the contract or purchase order.

7. NOTES.

7.1 Sources. Based on previous Request for Information (RFI) the following companies have shown/demonstrated interest. These sources provided components for fit/wear/production of previous wear test garments.

Table VII. Sources

PREPARING ACTIVITY: ASC/WNUV-TAC

Air Force Uniform Office 1901 Tenth St., Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, OH 45433-7605

FIGURE 1. Embroidered symbol placement only

FIGURE 2. AF PT Jacket, embroidery size of U.S. Air Force symbol

FIGURE 3. AF PT jacket, front and rear views image1.jpeg image2.png image3.tiff