Spec_220 _110414 _TRS.doc

USAFA CU 220

14 April 2011

USAFA CU 220

14 April 2011

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 220

14 April 2011

TROUSERS, MEN’S CADET, SERVICE

TROUSERS, MEN’S CADET, SERVICE

1. SCOPE.

1. 1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for men’s trousers, tropical: wool, polyester/wool.

1. 2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in sizes as specified.

Schedule of lengths and sizes

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2. 1 The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein:

SPECIFICATIONS

Federal

Military

STANDARDS

Federal

Military

ASTM

ANSI

Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by suppliers in connection with specified procurement functions shall be obtained from the following information. Questions on specification information can be obtained through the direction of contracting officer.

2.2 Other Publications. The following documents form a part of this Purchase Description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issues in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply.

Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)

(Applications for copies of this technical manual should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists; Research Triangle Park, Post Office Box 12215, Durham, North Carolina 27709).

Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966. DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. Standard Color Card of America, Ninth Edition.

(Applications for copies of these standards should be addressed to the Textile Color Card Association of the United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10016).

(Technical society and technical association specifications and standards are generally available for reference from libraries and are also distributed among technical groups and using federal agencies).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS. Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam. ASTM - D-747-02. To order copies of this ASTM Standard Log on to: http://www.astm.org or write to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street. Philadelphia PA 19107.

To obtain a copy of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008 call: American National Standard, at 1800-854-7179 or write to: American Society for Quality Control, 611 East Wisconsin Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53202.

Source of Government Documents: Copies of military and Federal documents available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk

Bldg. 4D

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3.1 Guide Sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the supplier (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for the service coat shall be 10 -ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, USAFA blue shade 540, conforming to MIL-C-21115, as supplemented by USAFA Supplement 1, 28 March 1996. The material for the pocket flap linings shall conform to Type III o f MIL-C-21115. The government shall be responsible for sponging the fabric so that the maximum shrinkage after sponging shall be no more than 3% in either the warp or the filling direction.

3.2.2 Pocketing and Lining. The material for the pocketing, for the waistband lining, for the right fly lining, and for the crotch lining shall conform to class I of MIL-C-43718, except that the color of the material shall be blue to match the outershell. The waistband lining shall incorporate non-slip tape.

3.2.3 Left Fly Interlining and Front Pocket Facing. The material for the left fly interlining and the front pocket facing shall be a non-woven fabric comprised of 83% rayon + 3% and the balance polyester coated with a low density polyethylene.

Weight (min) 1 oz./sq. yd. (greige) 1.4 oz. Sq. yd. (w/finish)

3.2.4 Waistband Interlining. The material for the waistband interlining shall be either a bleached or unbleached cotton-polyester cloth, that contains not less than 45 Percent polyester fiber or a cotton buckram cloth that has a plain weave. The cotton buckram cloth shall have a minimum of 48 ends in the warp, shall have a minimum of 40 picks in the filling, and shall weigh a minimum of 3.5 ounces per square yard or a non-woven fusible may be used.

3.2.5 Thread.

3.2.5.1 Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton – or Polyester-Covered. The cotton or polyester-covered polyester core thread for general stitching of the skirt shall be Ticket #50 and #70, 2 or 3 ply. The thread for sewing of the buttons shall be Ticket #30, 2 ply. All threads shall conform to A-A-50199. The color shall be DOD thread shade navy blue AT, Cable No. 66060.

3.2.5.2 Colorfastness. All dyed thread shall show colorfastness to light and wet drycleaning, equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good” fastness to light and wet drycleaning.

3.2.5.3 Thread for Reinforcing Buttonholes. The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, Size No. 8 of A-A-50198 and shall be DOD Thread Shade Navy Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 (see DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. If a standard sample is not available, the thread for reinforcing the buttonholes shall have good colorfastness to laundering and wet drycleaning.

3.2.7 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 4, 22 line of V-B-871 and the color shall approximately match the basic fabric.

3.2.8 Slide Fastener. The slide fastener chain shall be metal size No. 2, type or equal. The tape shall be woven from 100 percent polyester or from blends of nylon and cotton, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon and shall have a minimum width (each side) of 3/8”. The completed slide fastener shall not shrink more that 2% when tested as specified in A-A-55634. A four-part assembly, brass #3 size brass metal stop shall be used. The tape shall include an automatic or cam lock.

3.2.8.1 Slide fastener tape color. The color of the tape shall be USAFA Shade Blue 540 or black. The dyed tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good” fastness to laundering and wet drycleaning.

3.2.9 Hook and Eye. The hook and eye shall be crush proof and shall have a nickel plate finish. The hook and eye shall be an approved hook and eye (see 6.7), or equal; however, the approval of the procuring activity shall be required before an “or equal” hook and eye may be used.

3.2.10 Waistband Stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to MIL-C-43920.

3.2.11 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylon, natural or white color, with two rows of cloroprence or nitrile rubber threads woven or stitched to the tape. The width of the completed tape shall be 7/8 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the manufacturer’s standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to laundering and dry-cleaning as appropriate for the end item.

3.3 Design. The trousers shall be a dress type. The trousers shall have a sewn-on waistband with a hook and eye closure, a one-piece French Fly with a slide fastener closure, a straight pocket on each side, and a double-cord pocket on each hip. The closure of the right hip pocket shall consist of a buttonhole tab and button. An outlet is provided at seat seam and from crotch to knee.

3.4 Construction. The trousers shall be constructed as specified in Table I; however, the manufacturer will not be required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. The stitches per inch specified in Table I shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the trousers will be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or will not show on the finished trousers.

3.4.1 Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM D6193. If two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. The looper thread of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the finished trousers. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seam sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the trousers. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.4.1.1 Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. The ends of all seams and stitchings produced with stitch type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than ¼ inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than ½ inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than ½ inch. Skipped stitches and thread breaks in stitch type 401 may be repaired using stitch type 301.

3.4.2 Marking. Marking of the parts of the trousers to insure a uniform shade and size may be any method except corrosive metal fastening devices, sew-on types of marking, or adhesive-type tickets that will leave impressions or traces of paper or adhesive after the tickets are removed from the parts. The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the finished slack, and wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance.

3.4.3 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the trousers shall be cut, in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.5, from the materials specified herein and in the quantity specified in Table II. The stripping for the belt loops and for the buttonhole tab, the waistband lining, and the waistband interlining shall be cut from the materials specified herein and of sufficient width for the requirements specified in Table I. As an option, a commercial-type waistband that conforms to the material requirements specified herein may be used for the trousers.

Right fly with integrated tab 1/

Side pocket wide facing

(or bearer)

1/ The pattern parts listed for the right fly with integrated tab, for the right waistband for use with integrated tab, and the right fly lining with integrated tab should be used.

2/ As an option, the right front end of the waistband ling may extend to the front opening. If this option is used, the right fly lining shall be shortened at the top. The altered right fly lining shall be sufficiently long to extend under the waistband lining.

3.4.3.1 Patterns. Standard patterns that show directional lines, size, placement of pockets, and notches for the proper assembling of the parts of the trousers will be furnished by the procuring activity (see 6.3). the standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The manufacturer’s working patterns shall be identical to the Standard patterns and shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide a ¼ inch seam allowance for bagging pockets, a 3/8 inch seam allowance for all other seams except seat seam and inseam of back part; 7/8 inch has been added to the seat seam allowances (total 1-1/4 inches at top) to allow for tapering the seat outlet and ¾ inch has been added to the inseam of back part (total 1-1/8 inches at top) to allow for the inseam outlet of back part to knee.

3.4.4 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be an eyelet-end taper-bar type or an eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole, worked over cotton gimp thread, with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be ½ to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be ½ to 5/8 inch. The eyelet-end square-bar type of buttonhole shall be bartacked, with 21 stitches per tack, in a separate operation. The bar end of the eyelet-end taper-bar type of buttonhole shall have a minimum of four stitches not counting the first cross-over stitch.

3.4.5 Combination Contractor, Identification and Care Label. Each pair of trousers shall have a size label, a combination identification and instruction label and a certification label. The label shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, and conforming to Type VI, Classes 1, 2, 10 and 14 of Specification DDD-L-20. The label will show the following information:

ITEM DESCRIPTION______________________*_______________________________

CONTRACT NUMBER_________*___________CONTRACT DATE________*______

SIZE___________________________________**________________________________

CADET NAME____________________________________________________________

SSN______________________________________SQUADRON_____________________

SUPPLIER’S NAME_______________________*________________________________

FABRIC CONTENT_______________________*________________________________

CARE INSTRUCTIONS____________________*________________________________

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using a permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3. 4.5.1 Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable HARD PAPER size ticket shall be approximately 2” x 3” and be of a regular commercial hard paper construction with two holes at each corner. The letter and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 10 Regular shall be expressed as 10R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2 in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment.

3.5. Size Label. The size label shall conform to Type I, Class 2 of DDD-L-20 and shall have colorfastness to laundering as specified in DDD-L-20. The size marking shall include the numerical and adjective designation. For example, a size 10 regular length, shall be designated 10R. (See operation-23)

3.6 End Item.

3.6.1 Shade Matching. The shade of the finished slack shall match the shade of the standard sample, USAFA Blue shade 540.

3.7 Workmanship. The trousers shall be manufactured in a thoroughly workmanlike manner.

3. 8 First Article. When required before production is commenced, the contractor will submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one trouser conforming to the requirements of this specification for Size 30 Regular.

3.8 Measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements shown in Table III. The tolerances shall be + ¼ inch for ½-waist, ½-knee and ½-bottom measurements; + ½ inch for outseams and inseams and + ¼, - ½ for ½-seat measure

TABLE II Finished Measurements in Inches

1/ ½ Seat 2/ Inseam Length 3/ ½ Bottom 4/ ½ Knees 5/

1/ Measure the waist from folded edge to folded edge across the center of the waistband, with the slide fastener closed, and multiply the measurement by two.

2/ Measure the seat from the folded edge to folded edge, 9 inches below the top of the waistband, with the slide fastener closed, and multiply the measurement by two, 3/ Measure the inseam length, along the inseam, from the crotch seam to the unhemmed bottom of the leg.

4/ Measure the unhemmed bottom of the leg from the folded edge to folded edge and multiply the measurement by two.

5/ Measure knee from folded edge to folded edge across the width of the leg and multiply the measurement by two. The distance from the unhemmed bottom of the leg at witch the knee is measure shall be 21-1/2 inches.

3. 5 Table II Description of Operation.

Top Bottom

a. Cut the trousers in accordance with the patterns which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and notches for proper assembling of all parts..

(b) Spread the basic fabric without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic bric. The directional lines on the fronts and the backs, measured at the top and bottom edges of the patterns from the directional line to the selvage edge of the basic fabric, may vary a maximum of 1 inch from the warp direction; however, the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 1 inch.

(c) Cut all parts of the trousers made of basic fabric from the same piece of basic fabric, except for parts that may be cut from ends. The narrow facings for the side pockets, the hip pocket bearers, the belt loops, the fly tab pieces and the fly pieces (left and right) may be cut from ends but shall approximate the shade of the other parts of the trousers. The cut parts from the top ply and the bottom ply shall match & correspond to the patterns

(d) Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient width to comply with No. 7.

(a) Cut the material for the right fly lining on the straight or on the bias.

(b) Cut the material for the crotch lining so that the fold will be on the bias and one of the inseam sides will be in the direction of the warp.

(c) Cut the material for the waistband lining and the material for the waistband interlining on the bias and of sufficient width to comply with operation 18. Cut non- slip tape of sufficient length and width to comply with operation 18. As an option, the waistband may be a commercial type provided the material meets the requirements specified herein.

(d) Cut the material for the left fly interlining and for the stays for the side pockets.

Cut the material for the pockets in the warp or the filling direction. Cut as many pockets as possible in the warp direction.

Except for the parts that may be cut from ends, mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the trousers to insure correct size and uniform shade throughout the trousers

(a) Replace any part of the trousers containing a hole, a smash, a multiple float, a slub, or a shade bar.

(b) Replace any part of the trousers that is damaged by a needle chew, a cut, a tear, a hole, a burn, or an exposed drill hole during a manufacturing process. replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished trousers.

70-2

70-2 70-2

70-2

70-2 502 or EFd-1

503 or EFd-1

504 or EFd-1 6-10

6-10

6-10

SSa-1 6-10

Turn the stripping with both edges turned in and the turned-in edges abutted at the center. Stitch with the covering stitch on the underside. The width of the finished stripping shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inch. The stripping shall incorporate a stiffener.

(a) Cut a piece of the stripping (see No. 7) of sufficient length to comply with No. 8(b) and to finish 1-1/4 inches (plus or minus 1/8 inch) long when attached to the right hip pocket.

50-2 50-2

Bartack

Or

Automatic Tacker

24-28 per tack

(a) Superimpose the left fly on the left fly interlining.

Stitch the back edge of the slide fastener tape to the left fly with two rows of stitching. The ends of the scoops shall be ¼ to ½ inch above the fly notch when the fasteners are cut and the scoops removed. The edge of the chain in the finished trousers shall be ½ to 5/9 inch from the edge at the top, tapering to ¼ to 3/8 inch from the edge at the bottom.

50-2 50-2 50-2 50-2

LSbj-1 10-14

10-14

50-2 50-2

SSe-2(a) 10-14

(b) An automatic dart marking machine may be used for this operation.

The finished pockets shall be in alignment, shall be uniform in width and depth, and shall be 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep. There shall be no raw edges or pleats at the end of the openings. The pocket openings shall finish 5-1/4 + 1/8 inches long.

10-14

10-14

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

And

OSf-1 10-14

10-14

OR

(j) No. 22(c) and 11(d) may be accomplished with a double piped pocket machine that stitches, cuts, and turns piped edges in one operation. If this machine is used, the welt pieces may be trimmed to permit insertion into the machine and the machine Manufacturer’s recommended pocket stay material may be used.

(k) Raise stitch the joining seam of the lower piping piece through the back of the trousers and the piping piece only. Raise stitch the joining seam of the top piping piece through all plies, closing the top of the pocket. The ends of the pocket openings shall be securely tacked.

10-14

Place the facing and the bearer on the pocketing; stitch along the inner side, with the raw edge turned in, and across the lower end. A selvage edge need not be turned in.

The edges of the side pocket openings shall not be distorted. The openings shall be aligned, shall be uniform in length, and shall measure not less than 5-3/4 inches, nor more than 6-1/2 inches between tacks. Avoid notching the pocket on the underside beyond the width of the side seam allowance.

50-2 50-2

SSAe-2(a) 10-14

10-14

The ends of the flies shall be even where they join the crotch seam. The fly shall lie flat without twists or puckers when the slide fastener is closed.

50-2 50-2 301 or 401

LSq-2(a)

Lsq-2(b) 10-14

(a) Join the outseams with the notches matched, catching the pocket stay with the bottom ends turned under (if not previously caught in the overedge operation) (See No. 6(a)).

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

SSa-1 10-14

(b) Press the outseams open from the bottom to the top of trousers. The pocket stay pieces may be folded over the open seam and pressed into position for No. 16.

(a) Turn in the back edge of the side pockets and the edge of the stay pieces and stitch to the stay pieces 3/16 to ¼ inch from the edge along the side seam allowance. Continue the stitching around; the pocket to the folded edge and securely backstitch the end of the seam.

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

SSc-1

SSe-2(b) 10-14

Finished appearance. The finished waistband shall measure 1-1/2 (+1/8) inches wide. There shall be seven loops for sizes up to & including 37 and eight loops for sizes 38 and up. The loops shall be positioned as follows:

-One on each front as indicated by patterns.

-One at each outseam on back.

-One centered between outseam & seat seam.

-One on seat seam (See operation 27a and b).

The extra loop for larger sizes on right front 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from right fly joining seam.

(a) Stitch the left and left waistbands to the trousers, catching the ends of the belt loops, except the center back loop in the stitching.

(b) Press the waistband seams open.

10-14

The waistband lining shall be not less than 2 + 1/8 inches wide in the finished trousers. The top row of rubber thread of the non-slip tape on the waistband lining assembly shall be ¾ + 1/8 inch from the top of the waistband. No stitching shall penetrate the rubber thread of the non-slip tape. The waistband linings may be pieced, providing the seam is flat & not more than one piecing is made in each of the trousers. The waistband lining shall incorporate elastic stripping.

(1) Position the center of the non-slip tape 5/8 (+ 1/16) inch below the top edge of a 2-1/4 inch wide woven or nonwoven buckram strip. Buckram may be pieced by butting ends & joining. Not more than one seam per waistband shall be permitted.

- The lower portion shall be cut wide enough to fold around the bottom edge of the buckram and extend ¼ inch beyond the lower row of rubberized threads, front and back. The lower lining portion shall measure 1 (+ 1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to the trousers.

- The top portion shall be cut wide enough to extend 5/8 inch beyond the top row of rubberized threads and ¼ inch beyond the top edge of the buckram with a ¼ inch turn under near the top row of rubberized threads. The top lining portion shall measure 5/8 (+ 1/16) inch wide when finished and attached to trousers. The lining may be pieced with not more than one seam per portion of waistband using a ¼ inch seam spread open and flat.

(3) Turn under the lower edge of the top portion of waistband lining material ¼ inch. With fold adjacent to the top row of the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape, stitch close to fold through lining, non-slip tape and buckram.

(4) Turn under the top of the front of the lower portion of waistband lining material ¼ inch. Place fold adjacent to the lower row of the rubberized threads of the non-slip tape. Stitch close to fold through lining on front, non-slip tape, buckram, and portion of lining turned to back.

(c) Turn under top edge of waistband lining & stitch to top edge of waistband catching interlining stabilizer with a row of simulated hand felling.

(d) Applicable to trousers when option to extend waistband lining to right end of waistband is exercised). Turn right end of waistband lining to the outside and stitch to front edge of waistband catching the top of the fly lining in the stitching.

(e) Fold waistband lining to the inside and baste or press top edge. The lining shall not be exposed beyond the top of waistband.

(a) Position the hook on the center (1/4 inch off-center tolerance) of the left waistband with the rolled edge of the hook aligned with the slide fastener scoops. Attach the hook through a suitable reinforcement.

(b) Position the eye on the center of the right waistband, aligned with the slide fastener scoops, to corresponding to the hook on the left waistband. Attach the eye through a suitable reinforcement.

NOTE: The closure shall not bulge when the hook and eye are engaged in the finished trousers.

The top corners of the right and the left flies shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the left fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the left fly to the forepart shall not be exposed on the outside of the trousers when the slide fastener is closed. The right fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside. The flies shall be smooth without twists or puckers or excessive fullness.

50-2 50-2

SSe-2(a) 10-14

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

SSe-2(b)

SSc-1

Lsq-2(b)

Shows finished seams) 10-14

(c) If the option to extend the waistband lining to the right end of the waistband is exercised, the following operation shall apply:

Turn the right fly lining to the inside, & stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the front edge. Continue the stitching along the front end of the waistband, across the top of the waistband & down to meet the back of the right fly. Turn in the raw edge of the fly lining, and raise stitch the fly joining seam, catching the fly lining in the stitching.

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

LSq-2 10-14

(a) Join inseams forming outlet with the seam allowance of back part from 1-1/8 inches at crotch all the way down the leg. The seam shall finish evenly and notches shall match. The tolerance on matching the inseams is + 3/8 inch.

50-2 50-2

50-2 50-2

SSa-1 10-14

The seat shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain encountered in sitting or stooping. In the joining of the seat seam the inseams shall meet and the right & left waistband joining seams shall be aligned. The base of the left fly shall cover the right fly on the outside of the finished trousers. The inseams shall not be staggered more than 3/8 inch at crotch.

(a) Join the seat seam from the base of the fly to the end of the waistband lining with a double needle seat seamer with the rows of stitching 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart.

(b) Press the crotch & seat seam open.

(a) Topstitch the spread-open waistband seam 1/16 inch below the joining seam catching the waistband lining (with ends at the top of the pockets in the stitching). The stitching shall not extend across the fly except when option to extend waistband lining to right end of waistband is exercised. Pockets may be stitched or basted to waistband seam allowance prior to top stitching.

10-14

50-2

50-2

50-2 50-2

50-2 103 or

105 or

106 or

314 or

Hand SSe-2(b)

SSc-1

Lsq-2(b)

Shows finished seams) 10-14

Attach the slider and, with the ends of the chain even, staple the fastener together at the bottom with the staple overlapping the scoops.

Turn in the raw edges of the right fly extension piece, and machine stitch or hand fell to each side of the spread open crotch and seat seam.

50-2 50-2

50-2 301 or

Hand SSac-3(b)

SSac-3(c)

SSac-3(d)

SSac-3(b)

SSac-3(c)

SSac-3(d) 10-14 6-8

Turn up belt loops, fold under top of loops and position folded edge 1/8 (+ 1/16) inch from top of waistband and bartack. The finished belt loops shall measure 1¾ (+ 1/8) inches from bartack at top of loop to the bottom folded edge.

21-28 per bartack

24-28 per tack

Finished appearance. The tacking shall extend the width of the loop but not beyond.

28 stitches per bartack

Make the buttonhole at the end of the tab, as indicated on the pattern; with the inside edge of the eyelet 5/8 to ¾ inches from the point. The purling shall face the wearer of the finished trousers.

52-54 Stitches per buttonhole

The buttons shall be securely sewn and properly aligned with the buttonholes. Hand sewn buttons shall be shank wrapped three times & the ends of the thread shall be securely tacked with not less than two stitches. Machine sewn buttons which are automatically shanked shall have a minimum of ten wraps with three locking stitches.

50-2 or

14-16 per button

14-16 per button

4 double thread stitches per button

The bartacks shall be well made & correctly placed to reinforce the points of strain as specified. The bartacks at the side pocket openings shall extend beyond the outseams 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The length of the bartacks shall be 3/8 to ½ inch.

28 Stitches per bartack

28 Stitches per bartack

For both types of trousers overedge or pink leg bottoms.

(a) Trim all ends of stitching. Remove loose threads.

(b) Trim the ends of the center back belt loop to a length of 1/16 to ¼ inch.

(c) Remove al spots, stains, & markings.

Press the tops, including the fly & the pockets. Press the legs individually. Crease the legs in the center with the seams matching at the bottom & at the crotch. The inseam at the crotch may be slightly back of the outseam. There shall be no variation in the sharpness of the leg creases at the front and back parts of the legs. The ends of the creases shall not be higher than nor more than 1 inch lower than the junction of the inseams at the crotch.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4. 1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the left to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4. 1. 1 Certificate of Compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the left to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2. Inspection. Unless otherwise specified herein, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008.

TABLE IV. Testing Components and Materials

Rayon Tape (See Paragraph 3.2.2)

Yarns Per inch:

Braid (If Used); (See Paragraph 3.2.3)

1/ A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement; however, the Government will reserve the left to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

2/ The test method shall be 5020 of FED-STD-191, except that one determination shall be made.

3/ The average for ounces per linear yard shall be multiplied by 144 to yield ounces per gross yards.

4/ The test method shall be 5100 of FED-STD-191, except that the breaking strength shall be determined on the full width of the braid and the jaw dimensions shall be greater than the width of the braid.

4. 2. 1 End Item. The end item shall be examined for defects as specified in Table V and Table V. The sample unit for the examinations shall be one slack.

4. 2. 1. 1 Size Measurements.

Finished Measurements

c. Length

d. Bottom Sweep

NOTE: Measurements will be made as described in footnotes below Table III.

4. 2. 1.2 Inspection and Acceptable Quality Levels. Inspection levels and acceptable quality levels (AQL’s) expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) will be in accordance with ANSI ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008, as follows:

For defects listed on Tables V * VI (General and Detailed Defects):

(Combined)

For defects listed in 4.2.2.1

(Measurements):

4. 2. 2 Examination of Packaging, Packing, and Marking. An examination shall be made to determine compliance with the requirements specified herein for packaging, packing, and marking, see ASTM-D1974. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully prepared for delivery except that it need not be sealed. The lot size shall be the number of containers in the end item inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-2 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008. The acceptable quality level shall be 2.5 dhu. The shipping container fully prepared for delivery, except for sealing, shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VII.

5. PACKAGING

5/1 Preservation-Packaging. Preservation-packaging shall be Level A or C as specified (see paragraph 6.2 (c)).

TABLE V. GENERAL DEFECTS

PRESSING

b. Poorly pressed or variation in the sharpness of creases at front & back of legs

X

d. Gloss or wrinkles

X

e. Seam(s) not pressed open (when specified)

X

f. Leg(s) pressed with seams not matching at bottoms

X

MATERIALS DEFECTS AND DAMAGES.

a. Hole, cut, tear or needle chew:

1. On outside:

--any

X

2. On inside:

--up to 1/8”(inclusive diameter/length

X

--more than 1/8” in diameter or length

X

b. Visible mend, darn, or patch:

--any X

--up to ¼”(inclusive)in diameter/length X

--more than ¼” in diameter/length

c. Weakening defects:

1. Smash X

2. Multiple float or loose slub:

--on outside X

--on inside

X

d. Unsightly slub or shade bar:

-- on outside X

-- on inside

X

CLEANNESS

b. One or more removable spot or stains

X

c. One or more shade tickets not removed.

X

d. Any shade marking visible on outside.

X

e. Thread ends not trimmed or loose threads not removed throughout trousers.

X

COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

CUTTING.

a. Any component part not cut in conformance with directional lines on patterns or not in accordance with specification requirements.

X

c. Crotch lining pieces not cut with on inseam edge in direction of warp.

X

d. Waistband lining pieces not cut on bias

X

SEAMS AND STITCHING.

a. Accuracy of seaming:

1. Seam(s) twisted, puckered or pleated (unless) otherwise classified herein.

X

2. Part of the material caught in unrelated seam

--up to distance of ½” (inclusive)

X

--greater distance than ½” X

3. Ends of stitching when not caught in other seams/stitching bartacked less than ½”

X

4. Stitching overlapping the end(s) of thread break less than ½”

X

5. Ends of a continuous line of stitching overlapped less than 3 stitches on labels (when applicable) or less than ½” on all other stitching

X

b. Gage of stitching:

1. Irregular, i.e. unevenly gaged or corresponding stitching not uniform (to be scored only when the condition exists on a major portion of seam).

X

2. Not within range of gage specified, or varies more than 1/16” when no range is specified.

X

c. Stitches broken/missing (except buttonhole)

1. Joining seams, edge stitching $ top stitch

-- up to ½” (inclusive)

X

-- more than ½” but not more than ½”

X

-- more than ½” X

2. Overedging:

-- up to 3” (inclusive)

X

-- over 3”

X

d. Skipped stitches:

1. ¼” to ½” long (inclusive)

X

2. more than ½”

X

e. Runoff:

1. ¼” to ½” long (inclusive)

2. more than ½”

f. Raw edge (except on pocket welts)

-- more than 1/8” up to ¼” long (inclusive)

X

-- more than 1/2” up to 3/4” long (inclusive)

-- more than 3/4” long

-- ½” to 1” long (inclusive)

X

-- more than 1” long

X

3. Overage or serge stitching on any component part of trousers:

-- 1-3” omitted

X

3 or more inches omitted

X

g. Seam and stitch type:

1. Seam type or stitch type not as specified

X

2. Looper thread of 401 or 406 stitch types finishing on outside of garment.

X

h. Stitches per inch (to be scored only when condition exists on major portion of seam or stitch.

1. more than maximum specified

X

2. less than minimum specified

X

3. Stitch tension:

Note: Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident the seam shall be tested by exerting pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam.

-- loose tension resulting in loose seam X

-- loose tension (exposed loops of top or bottom thread):

---on outside for a distance of more than ½”

X

-- tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied in the direction of the seam or stitching):

--- seat seam

---- both rows of stitching break in the same place X

---- both rows of stitching break at different places

X

---- stitches break on one row of stitching only

X

--- all other seams X

BUTTONHOLE(S)

a. Gimp omitted:

-- one buttonhole

X

-- two buttonholes

X

b. One or more broken or continuous skipped stitches in button hole.

X

c. End not securely tacked.

X

f. Uncut buttonhole(s)

X

g. Ragged edges

X

i. Purling on hip pocket buttonhole (as applicable) on the inside

X

j. Purling on front fly-tab buttonhole faces trousers when buttoned.

X

k. Not type specified

X

BUTTONS

a. Missing, insecurely sewn, broken or defective

--…