Spec_2005-01 _110414 _WSJkt.doc

USAFA CU 2005-01

14 April 2011

SUPERSEDING

USAFA CU 2005-01

4 June 2010

USAFA CU 2005-01

14 April 2011

SUPERSEDING

USAFA CU 2005-01

4 June 2010

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 2005-01

14 April 2011

COAT, SERVICE, WOMEN

COAT, SERVICE, WOMEN’S

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This specification outlines requirements for service coats worn by female cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs CO.

1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following classes, as specified (see 6.2):

Class 1.

Stock

Class 2.

Made to Measure

1.2.1 Sizes. The Class 1 coats shall be furnished in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2):

____________________________________________________________________________________________TABLE I.

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

SHORT

15 16

REGULAR

15 16 18 20

LONG

15 16 18 20 22 24

EXTRA LONG

15 16 18 20 22 24

1.2.2 Class 2 - Made to Measure. The finished measurements of these coats will depend upon the result of the individual’s measurements, which will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2).

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Applicable Documents. The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein.

SPECIFICATIONS

Federal V-T-285

Thread, Polyester

V-T-295

Thread, Nylon

DDD-L-20

Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

Military

MIL-B-3461

Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap

MIL-C-368

Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon

MIL-C-44296

Cloth, Fusibles

MIL-P-15064

Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head

MIL-C-21115

Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool

STANDARDS

Federal FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods

Military MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Storage

CID

A-A-50067 Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth

A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven

A-A-50196 Thread, Silk

A-A-52071 Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose

A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton

A-A-52106 Cloth, Twill Or Plain Weave, Polyester And Polyester Blend

A-A-55187 Braid, Textile (Flat)

ASTM

ASTM-D1974

Box, Shipping, Fiberboard

ASTM-D6193

Stitches and Seams

ANSI

ANSI-Z1.4-2008 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

2.2 Standard Sources. Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement specific procurement functions shall be obtained by contacting the following organizations:

2.2.1Commercial item descriptions, Federal or Military standards or specifications.

Write to:

Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

2.2.2 American Society for Testing and Materials.

Write or call:

ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Phone (610) 832-9585

2.2.3 American National Standard Institute.

Write or call:

ANSI

1819 L Street NW 6th floor

Washington, DC, 20036

Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Materials.

3.1.1 Basic Fabric. The basic fabric for the service coat shall be 10 ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, Shade 540, conforming to MIL-C-21115, as supplemented by USAFA Supplement 1, 4 February 1985.

3.1.2 Lining. The lining for the body, sleeves, and the inside pocket pieces shall conform to Class 1 of MIL-C-368 and shall be USAF Color Shade No. 1086 (see 6.3).

3.1.3 Interlining for front and sides. The interlining for the front, and side shall be Type V, Class 1, Style B of MIL-C-44296.

3.1.4 Sleeve-Head Pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to Type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.1.5 Interlining for Sleeve. The interlining for the sleeve shall conform to Type I of A-A-52097 and shall be natural color or gray.

3.1.6 Undercollar. The material for the undercollar shall be in conformance with MIL-C-50067 and shall be USAF Color Shade No. 1549 (see 6.3).

3.1.6.1 Undercollar Interlining. The material for the undercollar interlining shall be in conformance with A-A-50186.

3.1.7 Interlining. The interlining for the facing, underarm, sleeve bottom, shoulder loops, bottom hem, pocket and back yoke shall conform to MIL-C-44296, Type V, Class 1, Style A.

3.1.8 Cotton cloth or polyester and cotton twill cloth. The material for the patch pocket lining and the pocket stays shall conform to Class 1 or 2 of A-A-52106. For Class 1 and 2 coats, the color shall be black. For the Class 3 coat, the color shall be white.

3.1.9 Floating chest piece. The floating chest piece shall be composed of non-fusible chest piece, a non-fusible canvas shoulder piece and a fusible felt chest piece.

3.1.9.1 Fusible felt chest piece. The material for the fusible chest piece shall conform to Type VI, Class 1 of MIL-C-44296 and have a weight of 2.5-3.0 oz/sq yd. The color shall be black for the Class 1 and 2.

3.1.9.2 Non-fusible chest piece. The non-fusible material for the floating chest piece shall be of good commercial quality and suitable for the intended purpose. The color for the Class 1 and 2 coats shall be black.

3.1.10 Braid for Hanger. The hanger shall be cotton or rayon, flat braid. The braid shall be 1/8” to 3/16” wide, and shall have a breaking strength not less than 50 pounds in the warp direction, and shall match approximately the color of the basic fabric or shall be black. The braid shall have good colorfastness to crocking and wet/dry cleaning.

3.1.11 Sleeve Braid. The braid for each sleeve shall be braid, mohair, flat, 3/4” wide. The color shall be Cable Color No. 70090. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187.

3.1.12 Cotton Tape. The tape for the armholes, neck, gorge, and bridle shall be bleached or unbleached, preshrunk, and shall conform to Type I of A-A-52071, except that the requirements pertaining to non-fibrous material content will not apply. The width of the tape shall be 3/16” or the armholes, neck and gorge, and 5/8” for the bridle at the break line.

3.1.13 Edge Tape. The tape for the front edges shall be bias cut 5/8” (+/- 1/16”) wide from material conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52106. The color of the tape may be natural or dyed.

3. 1. 14 Threads. All threads shall have good colorfastness to wet/dry cleaning and perspiration. The thread for topstitching shall be a Navy blue matching fabric color. The cotton thread for seaming the coats shall conform to Table II, A-A-50196. The silk thread for hand felling shall conform to Type III, Class 3, Ticket A or C, two-ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine felling, shall conform to Type I, three ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine edge stitching shall be black and conform to Type 1, No. A, three ply of A-A-50196, The polyester thread for machine felling and blind stitching shall conform to Type I, Class 1, Letter Size A of V-T-285. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for temporary basting shall be commercial cotton or the same thread used seaming the coats. As an option, a monofilament synthetic thread may be used for the basting operations where the thread is required to be removed. If a monofilament synthetic thread is used, the coat will subsequently be given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the monofilament synthetic thread is soluble. Any residue remaining on the coat after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. The nylon thread, if used for padding the lapel and bridle, shall conform to Type III. Letter Size, 000 of V-T-295. The nylon thread used for hand felling shall conform to Type IV, Sizes A and C, two-ply of V-T-295.

SPECIFICATION A-A-52094

APPLICATION TYPE Ticket No. Ply

3.1.15 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Class B, short shank (Wings & Star) of Specification MIL-B-3461. The size of the buttons shall be 30 line for the front and 25 line for the pockets. The buttons for the flaps of the inside lower hanging pockets and of the breast pocket shall be furnished with the split pin or the ring type toggles specified in MIL-B-3461. The stay buttons conform to Type II, Class D, Style 15, Size 18 line of V-B-871. The contractor may also use a machine lock stitch instead of a stay button. The color of the stay button shall approximately match the basic fabric.

3.1.16 Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 3, of MIL-P-15064.

3.1.17 Identification Of Coat. Each coat shall have a combination contractor, and care label and a removable hard paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3.1.17.1 Combination Contractor, Identification and Care Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, and conforming to Type VI, Classes 1, 2, 10 and 14 of Specification DDD-L-20. The label shall show the following information:

Item Description *

Size **

Cadet Name

Supplier’s Name *

Fabric Content *

Care Instruction *

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3.1.17.2 Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable HARD PAPER size ticket shall be approximately 2”x 3” and be of a regular commercial hard paper construction with two holes at each corner. The letter and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 12 Regular shall be expressed as 12 R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2 in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all coats the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve.

3.1.17.3 Care Label. A 2 1/2” x 2 1/2” label shall be sewn on inside right front facing. Top of label shall be 8” from the bottom edge of coat and 1/4” from facing seam line. Label shall be completely sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.

3.2 Design. The coat shall be semi-fitted, single breasted, and fully lined. It shall have a 4 button front closure, shoulder-mark loops, square notched collar, 3/4” sleeve braid, and 2 lower pocket flaps. The center front closure shall be square and not rounded at the hemline (see Fig. 2).

3.3 Construction. The coat shall be constructed in accordance with Table II; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed therein. Additional pressing, basting, or holding stitching to facilitate manufacture may be used, provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished coat. Manufacturer shall supply a step-by-step description of his operating procedure.

3.3.1 Stitches and Seams. Stitch and seam types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Wherever 2 or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with Stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back stitched not less than 1/4” Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break 1/2” to 1”. The stitches per inch specified herein shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum permitted.

3.3.2 Pressing. Unless otherwise specified herein, all pressing shall be accomplished by heated pressing iron or machine. A steam-pressing machine shall be used for No. 15, No. 20, and No. 36 of Table II.

3.3.3 Fusing. Fuse the coat parts in accordance with the procedures recommended by the producers of the fusible materials.

3.3.4 Before Production Requirements

3.3.4.1 Bid Samples. When required (see 6.2). The contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for evaluation, one finished coat--women’s service, size 12 regular--conforming to the requirements of this specification.

3.3.4.2 First Articles. When required (see 6.2) and before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one finished coat--women’s service, size 12 regular--conforming to the requirements of this specification. Contractors are notified that, where articles have been previously furnished and been accepted (within the last 5 years), the requirement for first article approval will be waived.

3.3.4.3 Other. Contractors must have the ability to develop and grade-working patterns from bid samples or prototype garments submitted.

3.4 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns for the pattern parts, listed in Table III. The standard patterns have a seam allowance of 3/4” for the center back seam, for the seams joining the backs to the sides, and for the seams joining the side lining to the back lining; 3/8” for the seams joining the sides to the fronts and for the seams joining the side lining to the front lining; 1/4” for sewing the facing to the fronts except for sewing the assembled lining to the back edge of the front facings to the notch at the bottom of the front facings; 3/4” for the center back lining seam; and 3/8” for sewing the assembled lining to the back edge of the facings to the notch at the bottom of the front facings and for any other seams. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for making the manufacturer’s working patterns. The standard patterns and the manufacturer’s working patterns shall be identical in size and shape.

3.4.1 Changes To Patterns. All approved pattern changes due to ideas adopted by the USAFA Uniform Board shall be forwarded to 10LRS/LGRCU. The Government furnished master pattern and approved changes shall be returned to 10LRS/LGRCU, USAF Academy, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210, prior to the last shipments being received by the USAFA after the contract has ended.

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TABLE II - MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS REQUIREMENTS

Seam and

a. The coats shall be cut in strict accordance with the patterns, which show size, directional lines for cutting, markings and notches for assembling of all parts. Each part in the top ply of the main lay of each material shall be cut from one piece of material.

(1) The basic material shall be spread face-to-face; that is, the face of one ply of the material shall be over and against the face of the next ply below. The basic material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths. The spread of the basic material shall not be more than 80 single plies (40 coats high). Care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched and so that one side of the lay is even. Perforated paper markers and plain papermakers shall not be used on the basic material; however, the use of a felt back paper marker shall be permitted. Drill marking shall not be used. The top collar shall be cut across the width of the material. All parts of the coat shall be cut from one piece of material. The darts shall not be cut, but shall be sewed and pressed toward the center seam.

(2) The rayon material for the body lining, the sleeve lining and the inside pocket lining shall be cut with the warp in strict accordance with the patterns. The sleeve lining and the inside pocket lining may be cut from ends; however, the sleeve lining parts shall match in shade and the sleeves shall match each other in shade.

Seam and

(3) Unless otherwise specified herein, all the materials for trimming the coat shall be cut in accordance with the patterns. The material for interlining the coat fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp. The material for interlining the coat bottom, the cotton buckram material for interlining the collar, and the material for the undercollar shall be cut in accordance with the directional lines or the patterns. The twill cloth material for interlining the shoulder loops and the cotton wigan material for interlining the sleeve bottom shall be cut on the bias.

a. Any part containing a shade bar, a hole or a weakening defect such as a smash, a multiple float, a knot, or a loose slub shall be replaced at the time of cutting.

b. Any part that is damaged by a needle chew, a tear, a scissor or knife cut, a mend, or a burn, shall be replaced during the manufacturing process.

Seam and

a. Fuse the front and side interlining pieces to the basic fabric.

b. Fuse the shoulder loops, front facings, sleeve bottom, underarm, pocket, bottom hem, back shoulder and top collar to the basic fabric.

c. Fuse the fusible felt chest piece to the non-fusible shoulder piece.

d. Fuse the fusible felt chest piece and non-fusible shoulder piece to the non-fusible chest piece.

b. Press forearm seam open and flat by laying undersell smooth on a pressing table, keeping the top sleeve short between the notches and maintaining the curvature of the undersell during pressing operation.

c. Establish the finished sleeve length and mark bottom turn up. Mark location of lower edge of the sleeve braid which shall be 3” +/- 1/8” above the turn up sleeve.

Seam and

d. Position the sleeve on top of the sleeve wigan interlining so that the top lower edge of the braid stitching shall catch through the interlining. The interlining shall extend 1” below the bottom turn up of the sleeve.

f. Fold bottom turn up of sleeve and press. Press sleeve braid flat.

h. Press back arm seam by placing the sleeve on a curved pressing stand and press seam open keeping sleeve short around the elbow area.

301 or

Hand

4-6

1-2 50/2

50/2

50/2 50/2

50/2

50/2

Seam and

Hand

1/2-1 A

30/3 A

Machine

d. Fell bottom of the sleeves. Felling may be performed with the lining turn up.

e. Turn the sleeves to right side and pair together the right and left sleeve.

Seam and

Ssm-8

(See

Table II)

b. Press the undercollar flat.

c. Shape undercollar by marking undercollar with properly sized shaper and cutting away excess collar material. Mark width of collar stand on undercollar.

d. Place machine stitch on break line.

e. Trim interlining 1/8” from lower neck edge of undercollar.

h. Press collar.

i. Remove basting, trim excess top collar and turn collar.

Seam and

k. Place second basting approximately 1” in from edge of collar and work required fullness at edge of collar. The third basting shall be along the break line of the undercollar.

l. Press collar, shape collar by pressing, stretch edge of top collar if necessary. Fold collar and press collar stand on the breakline of the collar approximately 5” at the center back of the collar.

m. Trim away the lower edge of the top collar leaving the required seam allowances.

NOTE: The dart shall not be cut, but be sewed and pressed toward the center seam.

Seam and

d. Sew a 1/4” wide tape to the neck of the back 1/4” from the edge of the outlet. The tape shall be sewn flat.

e. Press the darts. The dart shall be pressed flat and folded toward the back center seam.

f. Press the side body seams and back seam open. Seams shall not be stretched during pressing operation. Press tape on armhole smooth and solid, keeping armhole short.

NOTE: The bust pleat may be formed when the fronts are joined to the side fronts of the lining.

Seam and

Press the lining and the facing flat, and the fold shall be toward the center seam of the back. Press front side body seam; the fold shall be toward the side seam. Press the side seam, and the fold shall be toward the back center seam. Press the center seam of the lining and form a pleat at least 1” deep from the top of the lining down to the step of the diagonal cut.

Place the combination contractor and identification label on the front facing of the right front. Top shall be 8” from the bottom of the coat and 1/4” from the front facing seam line.

Seam and

304 &

301 or

Fsa-1 or

Fsd-3 4-8 or

4-8 &

12-14 or

4-8 70/2

70/2

A

70/2 70/2

70/2

A

70/2

e. Press front darts, side seams, and the armhole tape, keeping the armhole and side seams short.

Seam and

hopper or hand

NOTE: The 5/8 inch wide tape shall be adjacent to but behind the break line of the lapel and shall extend above the gorge seam at least 1 inch and within 2 and 2 1/2 inches of the front edge at the bottom point.

c. Sew a 1/4 inch wide tape to each armhole from 1 inch above the seam that joins the side to the front to the notch at the underarm.

Ssm-2

Ssm-2 4-6

Seam and

a. Mark the position of the top and the bottom buttonholes on the right front in accordance with the pattern marks. Mark the position of the third and fourth buttonholes equidistant between the marks for the top and the bottom buttonholes.

or B

Nylon or F

Nylon B or C

Silk or

B Nylon or F

Nylon Button-hole

Stitches

Per

Button-hole,Not

Include

Bartack

As Above

NOTE: The buttonholes shall be 7/8 inch long. They shall be cut first, eyelet end, square-bar buttonholes. They shall be worked over gimp, the gimp pulled through the underside of the buttonholes. The eyelet of each buttonhole shall be 1/2” to 5/8” from the edge of the front. The bartacking and the buttonhole making shall be separate operations.

d. Bartack the end of each buttonhole

NOTE: If the bartacking of the buttonholes is done by hand.

The bartack shall be not more than 3/16” long.

A Silk or 0

Nylon or A

Nylon A Silk or o

Nylon Bartack or Hand

Stitches/

Bartack

10-12

Stitches/ Bartack

Seam and

After the lapels are quilted, they shall be pressed on left and right front chest form steam pressing machine. The front edge shall effect a straight line from the top buttonhole to the bottom of the coat.

Position the lapel shaper at the point of the shoulders and mark lapel. Mark front of coat from lapel down to the bottom of coat. Establish the required length of the coat at back center seam. Add 1 1/4” bottom turn up. Shape lapel fronts and bottom by cutting off excess material. Trim the interlining not more than 1/4” away from the edge of the lapels and the bottom of the front. The bottom turn up is extended to the edge of the front to permit possible lengthening of the coat.

Hopper

1-2

Hand

to

70/2

Seam and

NOTE: Before edge seams are pressed open, the edges must be pressed flat and the facing bastings removed.

Hopper or Hand

b. Working the facing away from the edge of the coat, place a second basting along the edges approximately 1” in from the edge in the front. Base along and across the lapel. A third basting shall be placed along the lapel break line.

c. Baste along the edge of the facing, distributing the required fullness over the bust area.

d. Tack facing to interlining.

e. Tack the bottom turn up of the coat to the bottom interlining. The tacking stitches at the facing and bottoms shall not be exposed on the outside of the coat.

Seam and

b. Form a pleat 1” deep by folding the lining and basting over the center seam. The pleat shall face the right armhole.

or

d. Place a basting along the bottom of the back approximately 4” above the bottom turn-up.

e. Trim away the excess lining from the bottom turn-up.

f. Fold the edge of the lining and baste. Fold of the lining shall be approximately 3/8” away from the bottom turn-up.

g. Fell bottom bottom-up of lining with blindstitch.

h. Turn the coat; trim away the excess lining around the neck, shoulders and armhole.

b. Cut four loops 1 7/8” long for each coat.

Seam and

c. Front end of loops shall be turned under prior to stitching onto coat. Back end of loops shall be caught in shoulder-seam stitching.

e. Second loops on each shoulder shall finish 1 1/8” long parallel with first loop and be 2 3/4” up from first loop but not more than 3 3/4” up from armhole seam, see Figure 3. Opening of second loops shall be 1”.

NOTE: Measurement for placement of shoulder loops shall be taken along the shoulder seam.

b. Press the shoulder seams open, without stretching the seams.

c. Turn under the edges of the back lining.

Seam and

a. Chalk mark the neck outlet on the back and the front of the gorge, as indicated by the pattern, 5/8” at the back and shoulder seams, tapering to 3/8” at the label break line and the step notch of the lapel.

2-4

4-6

NOTE: In place of hand felling, the 801 machine felling stitch may be used.

Seam and

Press the fullness of each sleeve flat all around the armhole. Open the seam across top from the back notch to not less than 4” forward of the shoulder seam. The armhole seam should not be pressed open.

Seam and

OR

c. As an alternate to Operation 31a and 31b, the armholes may be tacked by machine with a loosely formed elastic stitch and if so tacked, Operation 31b may be omitted.

NOTE: The requirement for backstitching is applicable to the hand tacking of the armholes only.

d. Trim away the excess lining and shoulder pad.

3-4

4-6

6-8

A Silk or Nylon

Seam and

b. Fell the bottom edge of the lining to the coat by hand or machine.

c. Fell the lower back edge of the facings to the hem and the bottom corners of the lining at the joining of the lining to the facing. The bottom edge of the facing shall not extend below the bottom edge of the coat.

NOTE: A silk or nylon thread shall be used on all hand felling. Nylon thread similar to RICE Brand, Size Z-15 shall be used for machine felling.

a. Examine the coat on its equivalent sized model form to insure proper assembly of parts. The sleeves shall hand balance evenly; the front and back shall have a roll effect. The collar edges shall not curl. The fronts shall be even at the bottom and shall not overlap diagonally or spread apart. There shall be no visible breaks, creases, or twists at the side or the shoulder.

b. Correct improper joining or defective assembly before completing the coat.

Seam and

a. Place the coat on a hanger after the first pressing operation in the final press until completion of pressing.

b. Press the fronts on a left and right bust machine or pressing machine of a suitable type to obtain the desired shape and appearance with good manufacturing practices. The front edge shall produce a straight line from the top buttonhole to the bottom of the coat.

c. Press the back arm and forearm seams of the sleeves (sleeve seam machine). The sleeves shall be roll pressed.

d. Press the back.

e. Press the collar (collar machine). The collar break line shall be pressed firm from shoulder point to shoulder point. The lapels and the collar shall be soft roll pressed without a break line from shoulder point to the first top buttonhole.

f. Press the armholes and the shoulders (armhole machine).

g. Crease the lower half of each armhole solid on the inside edge of the armhole.

h. Block the armholes around the arm and shoulder area.

i. Press the coat lining smooth; press the pleat in the center back, using a utility hand iron.

j. Remove gloss, wrinkles, creases, and all pressing impressions.

Seam and

b. Four corresponding buttons shall be sewn at the back edge and center of the buttonholes. If sewn by hand, the sewing shall be backstitched with not less than 2 stitches, and the ends of the stitching shall be hidden.

c. Attach 25 line button through each pocket flap buttonhole, with shank of buttons inserted through the eyelets and secured with a pin toggle.

NOTE: The Star and Wings shall be upright position.

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Table III List of Patterns

Back

Top Sleeve

Under Sleeve

Top Collar

Shoulder Loop

Front Facing

Pocket Flaps

Side

Side Lining

Back Lining

Top Sleeve Lining

Under Sleeve Lining

Side Interlining

Top Collar

Sleeve Bottom Interlining

Shoulder Loop Interlining

Front Facing Interlining

3.4.2 Pattern Parts. The coat shall be cut from the materials as specified in accordance with the number of parts specified in Table III.

3.5 Identification of Product. Each coat shall have a combination contractor and identification label and a size label. The end item is intended to be dry-cleaned.

3.6 Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of the Class 1 coat shall conform to Table IV and Class 2 to the made-to-measure ticket.

3.7 Workmanship. The coat shall be clean, well finished, well pressed, and meet all requirements of this specification.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISION.

4.1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.2 Inspection for Acceptance. Unless otherwise specified herein, inspection shall be in accordance with ANSI-Z1.4-2008.

4.2.1 Testing of Components. Unless otherwise specified herein or by the applicable purchase document (see 6.2), the components of the coat shall be tested in accordance with the applicable subsidiary specifications referenced herein to the extent applicable. The methods of testing shall be as specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable. All requirements shall be applicable to the sample unit. Except for the braid, the lot size and the sample unit for testing the components shall be in accordance with the applicable subsidiary specifications. The lot size for testing the braid shall be 5 yards. The inspection level for each component shall be S-1 of ANSI-Z1.4-2008. The acceptable quality level for this visual examination shall be 2.5 DHU for Major defects, 15.0 DHU for Major and Minor A (combined) defects, and 40.0 DHU for total (Major, Minor A, and Minor B) defects.

4.2.2 Examination of Finished Measurements. The coat shall be examined for conformance to the finished measurements specified in Table IV. The inspection level for the examination on of the finished measurements of the coat shall be S-3 of ANSI-Z1.4-2008. The acceptable quality level for the examination of the finished measurements shall be 4.0 DHU for defects (one class). Any finished measurement of the coat deviating from the finished measurements specified in Table IV shall be classified as a finished measurement defect. Sleeve inseams of the coat uneven in length by more than 1/2” shall be classified as a finished measurement defect. The following format shall be used:

Finished Measurements:

a. Chest

Any measurement deviating from the nominal

b. Waist dimensions and tolerances specified in

c. Coat Length

Table IV shall be scored as a size measurement

d. Sleeve Inseam defect.

Note: Measurements shall be made as described in footnotes below Table IV.

Inspection levels and acceptable quality levels (AQL’s) expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) shall be in accordance with ANSI-Z1.4-2008, as follows:

For defects listed on Table V and Table VI (General and Detailed Defects):

AQL

INSPECTION LEVEL

Major

2.5

II

Major and Minor A

15.0

Major, Minor A and Minor B

40.0

(Combined)

For defects listed in Table IV

Finished Measurements:

One Class

4.0 S-3

TABLE IV FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (in inches)

SHORT

REGULAR

TOLERANCE: +/- 3/8” BUST, +/- 3/8” SWEEP, +/-1/4” BACK LENGTH, +/- ¼” SLEEVE LENGTH

TABLE IV FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (in inches)

LONG

X-LONG

TOLERANCE: +/- 3/8” BUST, +/- 3/8” SWEEP, +/-1/4” BACK LENGTH, +/- ¼” SLEEVE LENGTH

The finished measurements shall be taken as follows: Measure the 1/2 bust at the underarm, across the front, from armhole to armhole. Measure the 1/2 sweep at the sweep of the coat. Measure the total back length from the center back, bottom of undercollar, to the finished hem. Measure the sleeve inseam, along the seam inseam, from the armhole seam to the bottom of the sleeve.

2/ The tolerance for the finished measurements shall be + 3/8” for the 1/2 bust, and the 1/2 sweep; and

+/- 1/4” for the total back length and the sleeve inseam.

TABLE V.

MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES. 1/

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B

SHADED PARTS.

CLEANNESS

MINOR

MAJOR A B

CUTTING.

a. Any part (except top collar, undercollar) not cut on straight warp direction of cloth.

X

PRESSING.

MINOR

MAJOR A B

CLASSIFICATION

MINOR

MAJOR A B