Spec_2010-5 _100604 _Skirts.DOC

USAFA CU 2010-05

4 June 2010

SUPERSEDING

USAFA CU 2010-05

20 July 2006

USAFA CU 2010-05

4 June 2010

SUPERSEDING

USAFA CU 2010-05

20 July 2006

UNITED STATES AIR FORCE

SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 2010-05

4 JUNE 2010

SKIRTS, WOMEN’S CADET, SERVICE

SKIRTS, WOMEN’S CADET, SERVICE

1. SCOPE.

1. 1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for women’s skirts, tropical: wool, polyester/wool.

1. 2 Classification. The skirts shall be of one type in the following classes and sizes as specified :

Class 1 Stock

Class 2 Made to Measure

SCHEDULE OF SIZES

EXTRA

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2. 1 The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein:

SPECIFICATIONS

Federal

Military

STANDARDS

Federal

Military

CID

ASTM

ANSI

Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by suppliers in connection with specified procurement functions shall be obtained from the following information. Questions on specification information can be obtained through the direction of contracting officer.

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS. Standard Test Method for Apparent Bending Modulus of Plastics by Means of a Cantilever Beam. ASTM - D-747-02. To order copies of this ASTM Standard Log on to: http://www.astm.org or write to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street. Philadelphia PA 19107.

To obtain a copy of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008 call: American National Standard, at 1800-854-7179 or write to: American Society for Quality Control, 611 East Wisconsin Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53202.

Source of Government Documents: Copies of military and Federal documents available from:

Standardization Documents Order Desk

Bldg. 4D

700 Robbins Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094

ASTM Test Methods: Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.

AATCC Test Method: Application for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), PO Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.

3. REQUIREMENTS.

3. 1 Guide Sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the supplier (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern.

3. 2 Materials.

3.2.1 Basic Material.

3.2.1.1 The basic fabric for the service coat shall be 10 -ounce cloth, tropical: wool, polyester/wool, USAFA blue shade 540, conforming to MIL-C-21115, as supplemented by USAFA Supplement 1, 28 March 1996. The government shall be responsible for sponging the fabric so that the maximum shrinkage after sponging shall be no more than 3% in either the warp or the filling direction.

3.2.1.1.1 Lining shall be class 3 satin lining in accordance with MIL-C-368.

3.2.2 Tape. The tape used to finish the bottom of the skirt shall be 1/2” +/-1/16” wide, plain weave, woven of continuous filament rayon yarn. The tape shall weigh not less than 5.0 ounces per gross yard and shall contain not less than 66 ends. The tape shall show good fastness to the wet-dry cleaning and crocking when tested as specified in 4.2.1. This tape shall be provided by the contractor in rolls and in sufficient quantities to satisfy the requirement of the skirts being procured. The tape shall be forwarded to the Academy when the first shipment of skirts is made.

3. 2. 3 Hanger Loop Braid. The material for the hanger loop shall conform to Type IX, Class 1, of MIL-B-371. The color shall match the basic material and shall show “good” fastness to crocking and wet dry cleaning. The hanger loops may be made from the rayon tape specified in paragraph 3.2.2.

3. 2. 4 Identification of Skirt. Each skirt shall have a combination contractor, identification, and care label and a removable hard paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.

3. 2. 4.1 Combination Contractor, Identification and Care Label. Will be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, and conforming to Type VI, Classes 1, 2, 10 and 14 of Specification DDD-L-20. The label will show the following information:

ITEM DESCRIPTION______________________*_______________________________

CONTRACT NUMBER_________*___________CONTRACT DATE________*______

SIZE___________________________________**________________________________

CADET NAME____________________________________________________________

SSN______________________________________SQUADRON_____________________

SUPPLIER’S NAME_______________________*________________________________

FABRIC CONTENT_______________________*________________________________

CARE INSTRUCTIONS____________________*________________________________

* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.

** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using a permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.

3. 2. 4.2 Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable HARD PAPER size ticket shall be approximately 2” x 3” and be of a regular commercial hard paper construction with two holes at each corner. The letter and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 30 Regular shall be expressed as 30 R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2 in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. The ticket shall be tacked at all corners to the left side of the skirt below top edge of the waist band.

3. 2. 5 Thread. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread used for all sewing operations shall conform to Table IA. If an automatic machine that sews and shanks (wraps) a button in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed nylon, monocord, Special No. 5, and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length of 2150 yards per pound and shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness to wet dry cleaning and to light in accordance with the test method requirements of V-T-295. All thread used for sewing operations shall be black. The thread shall have colorfastness to wet dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample. If no standard sample is available, the thread shall have good colorfastness to wet dry cleaning and light.

TABLE IA Cotton Thread

Spec. Ticket No.___ _______Ply_________

1/ Except for an automatic machine that sews and shanks a button in one operation.

3. 2. 5.1 Color and Colorfastness. The color of thread shall be black. The thread shall show fastness to wet dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the thread shall show “good” fastness to wet dry cleaning and light.

3.2.6. Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, black, Type II or Size 8, conforming to A-A-50198. The gimp shall have colorfastness to wet dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. If no standard sample is available, the gimp shall have good colorfastness to wet dry cleaning.

3. 2. 7 Button. The button for the waist tab shall be black or navy blue and shall conform to Type II, Class D, Style 20 or 21, Size 24 line of V-B-871.

3. 2. 8 Slide Fastener. The slide fastener shall be Type I, Style 4, short tab pull, Size L, brass or zinc chain, 7 inches in length, conforming to A-A-55634. The color of the tape shall match that of the basic fabric.

3. 2. 8.1 Colorfastness. The slide fastener tape shall show fastness to wet/dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available; the tape will show good fastness to wet/dry cleaning.

3. 3 Design. The skirt is straight skirt, containing five gores, three panels at front and two panels at back, and an inside change pocket. The back panel shall have a dart on each side. There shall be a slide fastener closure on the left side, and the waistband shall be finished with two buttons and buttonholes placed according to the pattern. The skirt shall be fully lined.

3. 4 Figures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. In the event of any inconsistencies between the specifications and the figure, the specification shall govern.

3.5. Patterns. The USAF Academy shall furnish, upon request, one properly sized and identified master pattern. The contractor shall not alter the USAFA master pattern in any way, but shall grade it up and down to develop his working patterns for the required sizes. Unless otherwise indicated, the master pattern will provide 1-1/4” seam allowance for the center back seam (2 1/2” total seam allowance), 3/4” seam allowance for the side and front seams (1 1/2” total seam allowance) and 3/8” seam allowance for the waistband.

3. 5. 1 List of Patterns Parts. The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from materials as specified and in accordance with the number of parts required for the manufacturing process, as indicated in Table I.

3. 5. 2 Waistband Interlining. Interlining for waistband shall be black and shall conform to Class 1 of A-A-52106 or to Type I of A-A-50186 or fusible fabric.

TABLE I - LIST OF PATTERN PARTS

3. 6 Construction.

3. 6. 1 Stitches and Seams. Stitch, and seam types specified in Table II shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Whenever two or more seams or stitching types are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained with no tight or loose stitching.

3. 6. 1.1 Stitches Per Inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table II

3. 6. 1.2 Thread Breaks and Ends of Seam. Ends of all seams and stitching, except on darts and button reinforcement pieces, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2”. Thread breaks shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2”. The thread ends at bottom of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 1/2” to 3/4”.

3. 7 Manufacturing Operations Requirements. The skirts shall be manufactured in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table II. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed. Any basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished skirts.

3. 7. 1 Shade and Size Marking. The component parts of the skirt shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Adhesive type tickets, which leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after removal of tickets.

3. 7. 2 Pressing. All pressing as required in Table II shall be performed with a heated pressing iron or machine. All seams and darts shall be pressed as described in Table of Operations.

3. 8 Sample Approval.

3. 8. 1 Bid Samples. When required the contractor will submit one bid sample to the contracting officer for evaluation.

3. 8. 2 First Article. When required before production is commenced, the contractor will submit to the contracting officer, for approval, one skirt conforming to the requirements of this specification for Size 12, Regular.

NOTE: This requirement may be waived if a prior contractor receives the contract for this item.

3. 8. 3 Table II Description of Operation.

Top Bottom

a. Spread the material without tension so that the cut parts from the top and bottom plies will match the pattern.

b. Cut the skirts in strict accordance with the work patterns, which show directional lines, size and notches for assembly of parts. Directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction of the material.

c. Cut all basic parts of the skirt out of the same piece of material.

d. Cut the braid or tape for hanger loops (two each) of sufficient length to measure 1 1/2” + 1/4” long (folded) in the finished skirt (see Operation 8) e Cut the rayon lining in strict accordance with the patterns. The directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction of the lining material.

f Cut cotton silesia for the waistband interlining. The silesia shall be cut on a bias, and it shall be the same dimension as the waistband. Option: Interlining may be fused to waistband.

Silesia: A lightweight, smoothly finished twilled fabric cotton for garment interlinings.

Care should be exercised during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to assure that material defects and damages are replaced with non-defective and properly matched material.

Top Bottom

All the component parts cut from the basic material must have an ISO-BAR identification ticket to insure a uniform shade and size of the skirt. Perforated paper markers and plain paper markers shall not be used on the basic fabric. Drill marking for positioning of back dart shall not be used.

a. Fold darts according to marks as indicated on pattern and sew from top to nothing ending 3/4” to 1” below thread mark.

b. Press darts flat with inside folded edge toward center back seam, on finished skirt.

b. Join side body front panel to front. Size of seam taken shall be according to marks on pattern, and as described in the seam allowance.

d. Press seams open. The seams shall be held short and not stretched during pressing operation.

Top Bottom

b. Press seams open.

NOTE: The specified seam allowances shall be maintained on all joining operations. All seams shall be smooth; all notches much match. The top and bottom of the component parts shall be even. The proper stitch tension and the specified stitch per inch shall be maintained.

Finished Appearance: The placket shall be smooth and flat. The stops at top of fastener shall not be more than 1/2” below waistband on the finished skirt. The front skirt shall completely cover the slide fastener when slide fastener is closed, and the front skirt shall overlap the back skirt slightly at the bottom of placket without pleats or puckers on the outside. The stitching shall not interfere with the operation of the slider. The bottom stop on slide fastener shall be positioned not more than 1/4” above or below the top end of side seam.

a. The raw edges of the placket and facing shall be either pinked or serged, same as seams on skirt.

c. Pink side and bottom edge of placket piece may be narrowed to finish.

or

h. Enclose raw edge side into lining and topstitch for cleaner finish.

a. From the tropical fabric, cut one piece 11” long, 4 3/4” wide with a 1/4” seam allowance.

b. Make a welt 1 1/2” wide, including a seam allowance of 1/4” for turn-under.

c. Fold the fabric 6 1/2”; the fold shall be 2 1/2” above the pocket opening.

d. Stitch around the pocket, reverse the pocket and press.

f. The pocket shall be located in the middle of the side gore on the right side.

b. Press the back dart toward the center back.

b. Pink the seams, maintaining the specified seam allowance.

d. Pink or serge the bottom edge of the skirt lining.

b. Pink the edges of the seam allowances and the edges of the left side opening.

Top Bottom

a. Join lining to skirt at left side placket opening. Place skirt flat with wrong side of fabric up. Place wrong side of lining on top of skirt with right side of lining facing up.

e. Adjust lining in skirt and stitch lining to skirt at the waistline, with 1/4” seam. The panel seams of the lining shall be in line with the panel seams of the skirt.

NOTE: the finished skirt lining shall be 2 1/2 (+ 1/4) inches above finished skirt outer shell.

Top Bottom

Finished Appearance: The waistband width shall be uniform and the pointed end shall be on the front. The hanger loops shall be positioned over the right side seam and directly back of placket. The labels shall be positioned side by side on center of front with the size label on the left side (when skirt is worn) and the combination label shall be on the right side (when the skirt is worn). The stitching shall not be through the label printing.

OR

c. As an alternate method, the pointed and straight end of waistband may be seamed, trimmed, and turned prior to setting waistband to skirt.

Sse-2(b)

Osf-1

Top Bottom

Finished Appearance: The buttonholes shall be cut-first or cut-after, eyelet-end-taper-bar or square-bar type. The inside edge of eyelet shall be 1/2” from pointed end and 3/8” to 5/8” from straight end. The buttonholes shall be centered (1/4” off center tolerance) on waistband.

50,56 not including tack per buttonhole 50/3 50/3

a. Mark or gauge position for the buttons on the waistband to correspond with buttonholes.

b. Sew the buttons on marks indicated at ends of waistband as follows:

(See

Fig 2)

Top Bottom

Trim thread-ends and remove all loose threads, spots, stains and shade tickets.

a. Press the entire skirt.

b. Examine skirt; remove gloss marks, wrinkles, and impressions from thread, tickets or seams.

3. 9 Measurements. The unhemmed skirt shall conform to the finished measurements in Table III.

TABLE III - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Table of Finished Measurements

(In Inches)

TABLE III - FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (cont)

1/ The skirt shall be buttoned, placed flat upon a table, and measured as follows: Measure the 1/2 waist, from folded edge to folded edge, at the waist opening. Measure the 1/2 hip of sizes extra short and short, from folded edge to folded edge, 1/4” above the side opening. Measure the 1/2 hip of the size regular, from folded edge to folded edge, at the side opening. Measure the 1/2 hip of the sizes long and extra long, from folded edge to folded edge, 1/4” below the side opening. Measure the length from the top edge of the waist opening to the bottom edge of the skirt. Measure the 1/2 bottom sweep, from folded edge to folded edge, 3” from the bottom raw edge.

3. 10 Workmanship. The finished skirts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification or comparable construction.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4. 1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4. 1. 1 Certificate of Compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2. Inspection. Unless otherwise specified herein, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008.

TABLE IV. Testing Components and Materials

Rayon Tape (See Paragraph 3.2.2)

Yarns Per inch:

Braid (If Used); (See Paragraph 3.2.3)

1/ A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement; however, the Government will reserve the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

2/ The test method shall be 5020 of FED-STD-191, except that one determination shall be made.

3/ The average for ounces per linear yard shall be multiplied by 144 to yield ounces per gross yards.

4/ The test method shall be 5100 of FED-STD-191, except that the breaking strength shall be determined on the full width of the braid and the jaw dimensions shall be greater than the width of the braid.

4. 2. 1 End Item. The end item shall be examined for defects as specified in Table V and Table V. The sample unit for the examinations shall be one skirt.

4. 2. 1. 1 Size Measurements.

Finished Measurements

c. Length

d. Bottom Sweep

NOTE: Measurements will be made as described in footnotes below Table III.

4. 2. 1.2 Inspection and Acceptable Quality Levels. Inspection levels and acceptable quality levels (AQL’s) expressed in defects per hundred units (DHU) will be in accordance with ANSI ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008, as follows:

For defects listed on Tables V * VI (General and Detailed Defects):

(Combined)

For defects listed in 4.2.2.1

(Measurements):

4. 2. 2 Examination of Packaging, Packing, and Marking. An examination shall be made to determine compliance with the requirements specified herein for packaging, packing, and marking, see ASTM-D1974. The sample unit shall be one shipping container fully prepared for delivery except that it need not be sealed. The lot size shall be the number of containers in the end item inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-2 of ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-2008. The acceptable quality level shall be 2.5 DHU. The shipping container fully prepared for delivery, except for sealing, shall be examined for the defects listed in Table VII.

5. PACKAGING

5/1 Preservation-Packaging. Preservation-packaging shall be Level A or C as specified (see paragraph 6.2 (c)).

TABLE V. GENERAL DEFECTS

CLASSIFICATION

1. PRESSING

c. Gloss, wrinkles, creases, or impressions from thread, tickets, or seams.

X

d. Any seam not pressed open.

X

X

f. Any dart not turned in the same direction for its entire length.

X

2. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP DAMAGES.

b. Any hole up to and including 1/8” on the inside of skirt, or lining.

X

c. Any hole more than 1/8” on the inside of skirt, or lining.

X

CLASSIFICATION

f. Weakening defect consisting of a multiple float or slub on inside of skirt.

X

i. Unsightly slub or shade bar on inside of skirt.

X

j. Pulled thread on outside of skirt.

X

3. SHADED PARTS

4. CLEANNESS

a. Spot or stain on outside, clearly noticeable.

X

b. Spot or stain on inside, clearly noticeable.

X

c. One or more shade tickets not removed.

X

e. Thread ends (except at ends of darts) not trimmed, loose threads not removed, or thread ends at ends of darts less than 1/2” or more than 3/4” long.

X

5. COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

CLASSIFICATION

6. SEAMS AND STITCHING

b. Part of material caught, for a distance up to and including 1/4”, in unrelated operation or stitching.

X

d. Ends of stitching except a continuous line of stitching or pointed ends of darts (if not caught in other seams or stitching) backtacked less than 1/4 inch.

X

e. Stitching overlapping ends of thread break less than 1/2 inch.

X

f. Ends of a continuous line of stitching overlapped less than 1/2 inch.

X

g. Gage of stitching irregular, i.e., unevenly gaged or corresponding stitchings not uniform (to be scored only if condition exists along major portion of seam).

X

h. Gage of stitching not within range of gage specified or various more than 1/16” if no range is specified.

X i Stitches (except buttonhole) broken or missing up to and including 1/4 inch.

X

j. Stitches (except buttonhole) broken or missing more than 1/4” but not more than 1/2 inch.

X

l. Stitches skipped 1/4” to 1/2” inclusive.

X

CLASSIFICATION

n. Run-offs 1/4” to 1/2” long inclusive.

X

o. Run-offs more than 1/2” long.

X

p. Raw edge more than 1/4” long.

X

q. Not specified seam or stitch type.

X

r. Stitches per inch more than maximum specified (to be scored only if condition exists on major portion of seam or stitching).

X

s. Stitches per inch less than minimum specified (to be scored only if condition exists on major portion of seam or stitching).

X

u. Stitch tension loose (loops of top or bottom thread exposed) for a distance of 1/2” to 1” inclusive.

X

v. Stitch tension loose (loops of top or bottom thread exposed) for a distance more than 1 inch.

X

7. BUTTONHOLE

a. Gimp omitted.

X

b. One or more broken or continuous skipped stitches in buttonhole.

X

c. Buttonhole uncut.

X

d. End(s) of buttonhole not securely bartacked

X

CLASSIFICATION

f. Cut length of buttonhole less than 5/8” or more than 3/4 inch.

X

g. Purling not on outside of waist tab.

X

h. Ragged buttonhole.

X

8. BUTTON

a. Button missing, broken, and insecure.

X

b. Tacking stitches on hand-sewn button omitted or insecure.

X

c. Buttons not specified type, size, or color.

X

LABELS

c. Identification label (is combination label is not used) omitted, incorrect, or illegible.

X

d. Stitching through printing on label.

X

e. Identification label (if combination label is not used) not positioned on center front waist facing with the size label on left side.

X

f. Combination label (if used) off center of center front waist facing more than 1/2 inch.

X

CLASSIFICATION

10. COMPONENTS AND ASSEMBLY

TABLE VI. DETAILED DEFECTS APPLICABLE TO SPECIFIC PARTS

CLASSIFICATION

1. INSIDE CHANGE POCKET

a. Pocket opening less than 4 1/4” + 1/8 inch.

X

d. Not within 1/4” of proper lateral location.

X

e. Pocket opening uneven with top of waistband by more than 1/8 inch.

X

f. Pocket opening not uniform from top of waistband.

X

2. WAISTBAND

a. Waistband twisted.

X

b. Width of waistband not uniform by more than 1/8 inch.

X

c. Ends of waistband not turned under.

X

d. Waistband-to-skirt joining seam line exposed on outside for a distance of 1” or more.

X

CLASSIFICATION

e. Ends of any hanger loop not securely caught in waistband-to-skirt joining seam.

X

f. Length of hanger loop (folded) less than 1 1/4” or more than 1 3/4 inches.

X

g. Any hanger loop 1” or more from either side of right side seam line or folded end of waist facing on the back edge of left side opening.

X

h. Fullness on outside of waist facing.

X

j. Waistband containing more than one piecing.

X

k. One or both hanger loops omitted.

X

n. Top stitching exposed on outside of skirt.

X

o. Top stitching not full length specified.

X

p. Folded end of hanger loop not facing bottom of skirt.

X

3. SKIRT SIDE OPENING

CLASSIFICATION

b. Inside purled edge of buttonholes eyelet less than 7/16” or more than 9/16” from pointed end of waist tab.

X

c. Welt edge stretched or twisted.

X

d. Welt stitching irregular.

X

e. Row of stitching on back edge of left side opening exposed beyond edge of welt on front when slide fastener is closed.

X

h. Slide fastener tapes stitched too loose or too tight, causing front or back edge of opening to bulge when fastener is closed.

X

i. Stops at top of slide fastener more than 5/8” from top of finished skirt or lining.

X

k. Bottom stop on slide fastener extending more than 1/4” above or below top end of side seam line.

X

l. Waist tab not securely caught in welt stitching.

X

m. Welt stitching on front of side opening less than 1/2” or more than 5/8” from the folded edge of the front.

X

4. DARTS

a. Any dart twisted or puckered.

X

b. Ends of any dart less than 1/4” or more than 3/4” below drill holes.

X

CLASSIFICATION

c. Corresponding darts not positioned uniformly from joining seam line of side fronts to fronts in skirt or lining by 1/2” or more.

X

d. Inside folded edge of any front or back dart not turned toward center front or back respectively in the skirt or lining.

X

e. Corresponding darts in skirt or lining not the same length by more than 3/8 inch.

X

f. One or more darts omitted.

X

5. PINKING OR SERGING

a. Width of front and back seam allowance(s) (after pinking) in skirt or lining less than 5/8 inch.

X

c. Pinking or serging omitted more than 3” on any seam allowance or on front or back side opening edges in skirt or lining or bottom edge of skirt.

X

6. HEM TAPE

TABLE VII. EXAMINATION OF SHIPPING CONTAINERS

Number of skirts per intermediate package more or less than required.

Size shown on one or more skirts not size shown on container. 1/

1/ One intermediate package from each container in the sample will be examined for this defect.

5. PACKAGING

5.1. Preservation-Packaging. Preservation-packaging shall be Level A or C as specified (see paragraph 6.2).

5. 1. 1 Level A.

5. 1. 1. 1 Unit Packaging. Each skirt shall be laid out flat. A sheet of 20 pound minimum basis weight kraft paper measuring approximately 26” by 22” shall be placed on top of the skirt. Two lengthwise parallel folds shall be made by folding the skirt and paper as a unit, resulting in a folded width of 12”. When the width of the kraft paper exceeds that of the skirt, the excess paper may be folded over to the same width of the skirt. The top of the skirt shall then be folded downward to form a unit package measuring approximately 18 1/2” by 12”. Each folded skirt shall be placed in a flat style, clear polyethylene film bag of 0.00125” thickness (+ 25 percent tolerance). The polyethylene bag shall be formed with heat sealed seams that are straight, continuous and parallel to each other and the formed edges of the bag. The bag may be fabricated from polyethylene film, tubing or sheeting. The bag shall be not less than 1” greater in length than the folded garment. The unsealed opening shall be at the smaller dimension of the bag.

5. 1. 1. 2 Intermediate Packaging. Ten skirts of one class and size only, packaged as specified in paragraph 5.1.1.1, shall be further packaged in a fiberboard box conforming to ASTM-D 1974. This unit packages shall be alternated end for end, 10 in depth, within the fiberboard box. Inside dimensions of the box shall approximate 18 1/2” in length, 12” in width, and 4” in depth. Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Two ounces of naphthalene flakes shall be uniformly distributed throughout the contents of each box, except where skirts are made from cloth pre-treated with a moth repellent. Box closure shall be secured with 2” minimum width gummed paper tape applied at the center of the length opening and extending along the bottom and up each side at least 3”.

5. 1. 2 Level C. Skirts shall be preserved packaged to afford adequate protection against deterioration and physical damage during shipment from the supply source to the first receiving activity. The contractor may use his standard practice when it meets these requirements.

5. 2 Packing. Packing shall be Level A, B, or C as specified (see paragraph 6.2).

5. 2. 1 Level A Packing. Thirty skirts of one class and size only, packaged as specified in paragraph 5.1, shall be packed in a fiberboard shipping container conforming to ASTM-D 1974. Level A packages shall be packed flat, three in depth within a shipping container. Inside dimensions of each shipping container shall approximate 20 1/2” in length, 14” in width, and 13 1/2” in depth. Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Each shipping container shall be closed in accordance with Method III, waterproofed in accordance with Method V, and reinforced as specified in the appendix of the container specification. Toward the end of the contract or when there are less than the required amount per shipping container of the same class and size, mixed sizes of the same class may be packed within the same shipping container.

5. 2. 2 Level B Packing. Thirty (30) skirts of one class and size only, packaged as specified in paragraph 5.1, shall be packed in a fiberboard shipping container conforming to Style RSC, type CF or SF, variety SW, class domestic, grade 275 of Specification ASTM-D 1974, with a bursting strength of 275 psi. Level A packages shall be packed flat, three in depth within a shipping container. Inside dimensions of each shipping container shall approximate 27” in length, 17” in width, and 11” in depth. Approximate dimensions are furnished as a guide only. Each shipping container shall be closed in accordance with method II as specified in the appendix of the container specification. Toward the end of the contract, or when there are less than the required amount per shipping container of the same class and size, mixed sizes of the same class may be packed within the same shipping container.

5. 2. 2.1 When specified (see paragraph 6.2), the shipping container shall be a grade V3c, V3s, or V4s fiberboard box fabricated in accordance with ASTM-D 1974 and closed in accordance with Method III as specified in the appendix of the box specification.

5. 2. 3 Level C Packing. Skirts packaged as specified in paragraph 5.1, shall be packed in a manner to insure carrier acceptance and safe delivery at destination at the lowest transportation rate for such supplies. Containers shall be in accordance with Uniform Freight Classification or National Freight Classification, as applicable.

5. 3 Marking. In addition to any special marking required by the contract or order, intermediate packages and shipping containers shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129N.

5. 3. 1 Polyethylene Bagged Packages. Polyethylene bagged packages shall have the required identification information legibly printed or stamped in black directly on the bag across the center face or on a white paper label inserted within the bag so as to permit ready identification.

5. 3. 2 Labels, Mixed Sizes. Each shipping container, packed with mixed sizes of one class only, shall have securely attached to the end and side, directly under the printing or stenciling, a white paper label 5” by 4” with the words “MIXED SIZES” plainly stamped or printed thereon, and under these words shall be legibly stamped or printed the correct quantity and sizes contained therein.

6. NOTES

6. 1 Intended Use. The skirts are intended for wear by women cadet personnel at the United States Air Force Academy.

6.2. Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Class and size required (see paragraph 1.2.).

c. Selection of applicable levels of packaging and packing (see paragraphs 5.1 and 5.2).

d. When weather resistant grade fiberboard shipping containers are required for Level B packing (see paragraph 5.2.2.1).

6. 3 Samples. For access to samples, address the procuring office issuing the invitation for bids.

6.4. Figures 1 and 2 show general design and are for information only.

USAF Academy CO

Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210

REVIEWING ACTIVITY:

Director, Cadet Logistics (10LRS/LGRC)

USAF Academy

Colorado Springs CO 80840-8210

Figure 1.

Figure 2.