Spec_2050-03 _100604 _WOct.DOC
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SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 2050-03
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USAFA CU 2050-03
4 June 2010
SUPERSEDING
USAFA CU 2050-03
30 December 2002
USAFA CU 2050-03
4 June 2010
SUPERSEDING
USAFA CU 2050-03
30 December 2002
UNITED STATES AIR FORCE
SPECIFICATION USAFA CU 2050-03
4 JUNE 2010
OVERCOAT, WOMEN’S CADET
OVERCOAT, WOMEN’S CADET
1. SCOPE.
1.1 Scope. This specification outlines requirements for overcoats worn by cadets at the United States Air Force Academy, Colorado Springs CO.
1.2 Classification. Overcoats shall be of one type in the following classes as specified (see 6.2):
Class 1 Stock
Class 2 Made to Measure
1.3 Finished Measurements.
1.3.1 Class 1, Stock. Finished measurement of these overcoats shall conform to dimensions specified in Table II.
1.3.2 Class 2, Made to Measure. Finished measurements of these overcoats shall be derived from individual measurements taken by the contractor.
1.4 Sizes. Overcoats shall be furnished in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2):
SCHEDULE OF SIZES
| SHORT |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 9 |
| 10 |
| 11 |
| 12 |
| 13 |
| 14 |
| 15 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| REGULAR |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 9 |
| 10 |
| 11 |
| 12 |
| 13 |
| 14 |
| 15 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| LONG |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 9 |
| 10 |
| 11 |
| 12 |
| 13 |
| 14 |
| 15 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
| X-LONG |
| 6 |
| 8 |
| 9 |
| 10 |
| 11 |
| 12 |
| 13 |
| 14 |
| 15 |
| 16 |
| 18 |
| 20 |
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.
2.1 Documents. The following documents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein:
SPECIFICATIONS
Federal
| V-B-871 |
| Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic) |
| V-T-295 |
| Thread, Nylon |
Military
| MIL-DTL-32075 |
| Label, for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) |
| MIL-B-3461 |
| Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap |
| MIL-C-368 |
| Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon |
| MIL-C-3738K |
| Cloth, Elastique, Wool, Type II, Class 1 |
| MIL-P-15064 |
| Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head |
| MIL-C-43718 |
| Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon |
STANDARDS
Federal
| FED-STD-191 |
| Textile Test Methods |
Military
| MIL-STD-129 |
| Marking for Shipment and Storage |
CID
| A-A- 52094 |
| Thread, Cotton |
| A-A-50067 |
| Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth |
| A-A-50198 |
| Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole |
| A-A-50196 |
| Thread, Silk |
| A-A-50186 |
| Cloth, Buckram, Cotton |
| A-A-52071 |
| Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) |
| A-A-55187 |
| Braid, Textile (Flat) |
| A-A-52105 |
| Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp, and Spun Hair Wool or Rayon Filling |
| A-A-500767 |
| Cloth, Flannel Wool |
| A-A-3174 |
| Plastic Sheet and Strip, Thin Gauge, Polyolefin |
| A-A-52097 |
| Cloth, Wigan, Cotton |
ASTM
| ASTM-D6193 |
| Stitches, Seams and Stitching |
ANSI
| ANSI-Zi.4 |
| Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes |
2.2 Standards Sources Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement specific procurement functions shall be obtained by the following organizations:
FOR COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION, FEDERAL OR MILITARY STANDARDS AND SPECIFICATIONS Write to:
Document Automation and Production Service, Building 4/D
700 Robbins Avenue
Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.
FOR AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIAL
Write or call:
ASTM 100 Barr Harbor Dr, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959
Phone (610) 832-9585 for The Color association of the united states
Standard Color Card of America, Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads Applications for color cards should be addressed to:
Color Association of the United States, Inc
343 Lexington Avenue
New York, NY 10016-0927
FOR AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARD INSTITUTE
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 American National Standard, etc.
Write or call:
ASTM
1819 L Street NW 6th floor
Washington, DC, 20036
Phone: 212-642-4900 (customer Service)
2.3. Order of Precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
2.3.1 Regarding Documents. The documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids shall apply.
3. REQUIREMENTS.
3.1 Samples. Samples are furnished only for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. Except for such variations in the design, appearance, quality, construction and workmanship in all respects not covered by this specification shall be equal to the sample (see 6.2).
3.2 Sample Approval.
3.2.1 Bid Sample. A sample is required (see 6.2). The contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for evaluation, the following items:
3.2.1.1 One finished overcoat, Class 1, Size 10 Regular, conforming to the requirements of this specification.
3.2.2 First Article. A first article is required (see 6.2). Before each production is commenced, the contractor shall submit to the contracting officer, for approval, the following item:
3.2.2.1 One finished overcoat, Class 1, Size 10 Regular, conforming to the requirements of this specification.
NOTE: This requirement may be waived if a prior contractor receives the contract for this item.
3.2.3 Fabrication and Assembly of Sample. A sample shall be made by the contractor and shall meet all requirements outlined in this specification. The sample shall use parts and materials, and be assembled in a manner identical to that to be used in production.
3.2.4 Statement. A statement comprising the following shall accompany sample:
3.2.4.1 Identity of the plant where the samples were fabricated and date when its assembly was completed.
3.2.4.2 Certification. Certification that the sample has been completely fabricated using parts, materials, processes and techniques in accordance with this specification and is identical to those to be used by the contractor in production.
3.3 Materials.
3.3.1 Basic Fabric. Shall be cloth, elastique, wool, USAF Academy Blue, Shade 500, 18.05 ounces, conforming to Specification MIL-C-3738K, dated 31 March 1987.
3.3.2 Cloth, Rayon, Lining. The lining shall be cloth, rayon, satin, Shade 1086, 4.5 ounces per square yard, conforming to Class 3 of Specification MIL-C-368.
3.3.3 Coat Fronts. The materials for the coat fronts shall conform to the following requirements:
3.3.3.1 Padding. Material shall be cloth, cotton, flannel or felt, unbleached, double napped, 4.0 to 5.5 ounces per square yard, texture 38 warp x 34 filling per inch (minimum), breaking strength 30 warp x 25 filling (minimum) and shrinkage shall not exceed 2.0 percent (maximum) in either warp or filling.
3.3.3.2 Canvas. The canvas for the fronts and revers shall be cloth, cotton, warp and worsted-spun-hair filling, conforming to Type I of Specification A-A-52105.
3.3.3.3 Twill Cloth. Material for the interlining stays shall be twill cloth, black, 4.3 ounces per square yard, conforming to Class 1 of Specification MIL-C-43718.
3.3.3.3.1 Shoulder Piece Material. The material for the shoulder pieces for the front interlining shall be either 2 ply cotton warp and natural horsehair filling cloth undyed or 2 ply cotton warp and 520 denier monofilament nylon filling cloth undyed.
3.3 3.4 Haircloth. The material for the extra chest piece and extra shoulder piece for the fronts shall be haircloth, 30/2 ply cotton warp and natural horsehair filling, texture 60 warp x 60 filling per inch, shall weigh 6.75 ounces per square yard (minimum) and contain no sizing compounds. The horsehair shall meet current quarantine laws and pertinent regulation of the U. S. Department of Agriculture as set forth in the code of Federal Regulations. NOTE: Monofilament 520 denier may be substituted for horsehair.
3.3.4 Undercollar Material. The material for the undercollar shall conform to A-A-50067, Shade 1549, except that the colorfastness requirements to perspiration and crocking shall not apply.
3.3.5 Collar Interlining. The material for the collar interlining shall conform to Type I, Class 2, natural or bleached, of A-A-50186.
3.3.6 Shoulder Pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-P-15064.
3.3.7 Sleeve Head Pads. The sleeve pads shall conform to Type IV of Specification MIL-P-15064 except the pad shall consist of one layer instead of two layers of cotton wadding.
3.3.8 Twill Cloth.
3.3.8.1 The material for the left vent, tape stay across neck, bi-swing back stays, belt interlining, armhole, shoulder and pocket stays shall be twill cloth, black, 4.3 ounces per square yard, conforming to Class I of Specification MIL-C-43718.
3.3.9 Wigan. The material for interlining sleeve bottoms shall be cloth, cotton, wigan, natural color, 3.6 ounces per square yard, conforming to Type II of Specification A-A-52097.
3.3.10 Tape. The tape shall be cotton, unbleached, herringbone twill weave and fully shrunk, conforming to Class 1 of Specification A-A-52071. The widths shall be 1/4” for staying armholes and 5/8” for staying front and bottom edges.
3.3.10.1 The tape shall be preshrunk so that it will not shrink more than 2.0 percent. The preshrinking process shall not be identified by name or trademark on the tape, the ticket, or the package.
3.3.11 Braid for Coat Hanger. The braid for coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular, flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16” wide, and shall have a breaking strength of not less than 75 pounds. The color shall be black and have a good fastness to crocking when tested in accordance with Method 5650 of Fed. Test Method Std. 191.
3.3.12 Sleeve Braid. The braid for each sleeve shall be braid, mohair, flat, one inch wide. The color shall be Cable Color No. 70090. The braid shall conform to Type I, Class 1, of A-A-55187.
3.3.13 Thread.
3.3.13.1. Cotton Thread. The thread for temporary basting shall be a good commercial grade of cotton thread. The cotton thread specified in Table I of this specification shall be thread, cotton, conforming to Specification V-T-276, as follows:
| USE |
| TYPE |
| TICKET NO. |
| PLY |
| Seaming Front Interlining |
| IA2 OR IB2 |
| 70 |
| 2 |
| Seaming Front Interlining |
| IC2 |
| A |
| 3 |
| Machine Stitching |
| IC2 |
| A |
| 3 |
| Armhole Tacking |
| IC2 or IB2 |
| A |
| 3 |
| Sleeve Tacking |
| IA2 or IB2 |
| 30 |
| 3 |
| Button Sewing |
| IB3 |
| 16-20 Black |
| 4 |
3.3.13.2 Silk and Nylon Thread. The thread specified in Table I of this specification shall conform to Specifications A-A-50196 and V-T-295 as follows:
| USE |
| TYPE |
| TICKET NO |
| PLY |
| Machine Stitching |
| I |
| A, B, O |
| 3 |
| Padding of Collar |
| Nylon |
| Machine Buttonholes & Bartacks |
| I |
| F, B, A |
| 3 |
| Hand Felling |
| III |
| A, C Skein, Waxed or Nylon |
| 2 |
3.3.13.2.1 Nylon Thread. If an automatic machine which sews shank buttons imitating hand sewing is used, the thread shall be nylon waxed monocord, having a minimum breaking strength of 11 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 3,250 yards and shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness in accordance with test methods outlined in V-T-295. The nylon thread for padding lapel and bridle, if used, shall conform to Type III of V-T-295. The nylon thread used for hand felling shall conform to Type IV, Sizes A and C, 2-ply of V-T-295.
3.3.13.3 Color and Colorfastness. All colored thread shall match the shade of basic fabric or be black and shall show “good” colorfastness to light, perspiration and wet/dry cleaning. Tests shall be performed as specified in Specifications V-T-276 and A-A-50196, as applicable.
3.3.14 Gimp for Reinforcing Buttonholes. The gimp thread shall be cotton buttonhole thread, conforming to Type I or Type II, Size No. 8, of Specification A-A-50198.
3.3.15 Buttons, Metal. The buttons for each side of the front shall be 36-line and conform to Type I, Style 1, Class B (Wings & Star) of Specification MIL-B-3461. Buttons for the left front shall be 36-line, regular shank, with a 5/16” shank. Buttons for the left front (decorative) shall be flat eye counter sunk back.
3.3.16 Buttons, Plastic. Stay buttons shall be Type II, Class D, melamine formaldehyde, 4 holes, conforming to Specification V-B-871. The color shall approximately match the basic fabric.
3.3.16.1 There shall be five (5), in style 15, 18-line buttons for staying the metal buttons on the right front.
3.3.16.2 There shall be two (2), in style 20, 34-line stay buttons for staying the top and bottom metal buttons on the left front. These buttons shall be wrapped, forming a shank to coincide with the two buttonholes on left front and to secure the left front on the inside.
3.3.17 Pocketing. Material for the lower inside hanging pockets shall be a natural, soft, filled cotton cloth, single warp and filling yarns, plain weave, napped on one side only. The finished material shall conform to the following physical requirements:
| WEIGHT: |
| 6.0 ounces per square yard (minimum) |
| TEXTURE |
| Warp 44 x filling 40 (minimum) |
| TENSILE: |
| Warp 60 x filling 35 (minimum) |
| COLOR: |
| The color of the pocketing fabric shall show “good” color fastness to laundering, wet dry cleaning, perspiration, and wet dry crocking |
3.4 Design. The design of the overcoat shall be as shown in Figures 1 and 2 of this specification, with all components in accordance with USAF Academy master patterns or contractor’s patterns. The overcoat shall be five buttoned, double breasted, and fully lined. It shall have two lower hanging pockets with flaps. The back shall have a center vent, bi-swing at each side of armhole, and half belt stitched to back at the waistline. The lapel shall be wide revers buttoned down, with the collar to conform in shape and dimension to the requirements of the master pattern and specification.
3.4.1 Pocket Flaps. The pocket flaps shall have a straight lower edge with pointed corners, and the flaps shall be parallel with the edges of the overcoat at both the front and the bottom. Flaps shall be lined with basic fabric lining material.
3.4.2 Sleeves. Sleeves shall be trimmed with braid. The lower edge of braid shall be 3” up from the bottom edge of the finished sleeve.
3.4.3 Buttons. The bottom front buttons and buttonholes shall be in line with the top edge stitching of the pocket flaps. The front buttons shall be in horizontal and vertical alignment and taper towards each other down the front (see Figure 1). All buttons shall be sewn onto the overcoat front with the “Star and Wings” upright. The buttons shall be placed so that the ends of collar shall close evenly on the front.
3.4.4 Shoulder-Board Loops. Two elastique shoulder board loops shall be placed in the proper position on each shoulder as shown in Figure 3 so that the shoulder boards are in the center of the shoulder from front to back. The outside edge of shoulder boards shall be even with the outside edge of the shoulder seams.
3.4.5 Length. The length of all Class 2 made-to-measure overcoats shall finish in accordance with each individual’s measurement form. The stock coat shall finish according to Table II.
3.5 Patterns. The Government/USAFA will furnish, upon contractor request, one properly sized and marked standard/master pattern for grading and development of necessary working patterns. Except for grading allowances, the contractor’s working patterns shall be identical to the Government furnished master patterns. The contractor must have the ability to grade this master pattern up and down to required sizes. Master patterns and USAFA approved changes, if any, shall be returned to the USAF Academy/
10LRS/LGRCU, Colorado Springs CO 80840-8021 upon completion or termination of contract.
3.5.1 Allowances. The patterns provide for the following allowances: 1/4” for rever and front edge seams, 3/4” outlets on the side seams and center back seam, 1/2” outlet on front of undersleeve, 2 1/4” turn-up for sleeve, 2 1/4” turn-up for sleeve lining, 1 1/4” turn-up for bottom hem and a 3/8” seam allowance for all other seams unless otherwise specified herein.
3.6 Identification of Overcoat. Each overcoat shall have a combination contractor, and care label and a removable hard paper size ticket with Code 39 bar code.
3.6.1 Combination Contractor, Identification and Care Label. Shall be cloth, cotton, permanent-coated, and conforming to Type VI, Classes 1, 2, 10 and 14 of Specification MIL-DTL-32075. The label shall show the following information:
ITEM DESCRIPTION______________________*_______________________________
CONTRACT NUMBER_________*___________CONTRACT DATE________*______
SIZE___________________________________**________________________________
CADET NAME____________________________________________________________
SSN______________________________________SQUADRON_____________________
SUPPLIER’S NAME_______________________*________________________________
FABRIC CONTENT_______________________*________________________________
CARE INSTRUCTIONS____________________*________________________________
* Applicable data to be inserted by the contractor when labels are printed.
** Applicable data to be stamped in by contractor using permanent-type black ink after labels are printed.
3.6.2 Removable size/bar code ticket. The removable HARD PAPER size ticket shall be approximately 2” x 3” and be of a regular commercial hard paper construction with two holes at each corner. The letter and numbers for the size ticket shall be 1/4” high. Size 10 Regular shall be expressed as 10 R, etc. The code 39 bar code shall be 1/2 in height and shall reflect the stock number of the garment. For all coats the label shall be tacked to the outside, lower part of the left sleeve. Label shall be sewn on the right side of facing, approximately 10” down from shoulder seam. Label shall be sewn on all four sides, not to cover the printing.
3.7 Inspection of Cloth, Elastique.
3.7.1 When the basic fabric is provided as Government-furnished property, the contractor is required to inspect the basic material. Defects shall be indicated with ‘RED” strings for major defects and “WHITE” strings for minor defects.
3.8 Construction.
3.8.1 Stitches and Seams. Stitch, seam and stitching types as specified in Table I shall conform to ASTM-D6193. Whenever two or more methods are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used.
3.8.2 Stitches per Inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I.
3.8.3 Thread Breaks and Ends of Seams. Thread breaks and ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks on raised or edge stitching shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Using Stitch Type 301 shall be used to repair skipped stitches or thread breaks on Stitch Type 401 seams.
3.8.4 Buttonholes. The buttonholes for front of overcoat shall be the eyelet-end, square-bar, cut-first type, reinforced with gimp with the stitching securely caught in the fabric and the purling finishing to the outside. The ends of the buttonholes shall be bartacked the width of the bar section, catching ends of thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to the underside of buttonhole.
3.9 Manufacturing Operation Requirements. The overcoats shall be made by and with the use of all operations listed in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I. The coat shall be made as a complete open-tailored overcoat with convertible collar and revers.
3.9.1 Pressing. Pressing specified in Table I shall be performed by use of a heated pressing iron or machine.
3.9.2 Shade Marking. The component parts of the overcoat shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size through the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:
(1) Corrosive metal fastening devices.
(2) Metal fastening devices used on the rayon lining.
(3) Sew-on shade tickets.
(4) Adhesive-type tickets, which show discoloration and the adhesive mass, which adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.
3.10 Workmanship. The finished overcoat shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable-quality levels.
3.11. Finished Measurements. The finished measurements of the Class 1 overcoats shall conform to the measurements as specified herein and in Table II.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 1. |
| Cutting of Materials |
a. The material shall be spread face to face, i.e., the face of one ply of material shall be over and against the next ply below. The spread of cloth shall be not more than 80 single plies (40 over-coats high).
b. The material shall be carefully laid up in uniform widths and lengths and care shall be taken in spreading the material so that the plies are not stretched or full and so that one side of the lay is even. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.
c. The overcoats shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished which show size, shape, directional lines for cutting and also notches for proper assembling of all parts. Drill marks for positioning pockets and flaps are prohibited. Perforated paper markers are prohibited on the wool, elastique cloth. Paper markers with a felt backing may be used.
d. All components of the overcoat shall be cut out of one piece of material.
e Cut waist neck and underarm darts as marked on the pattern.
f The pocket flaps, half belt and topcollar shall be cut across the width of the material.
g. The two undercollar pieces shall be cut on the bias
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
Bottom
h. Thread marks or pattern marker shall be used for indicating the placement of the pockets, flaps, buttonholes, buttons and front darts.
| 2. |
| Cut Rayon Lining. |
a. The cloth rayon lining for the body of the overcoat and sleeves shall be cut in the direction of the warp and in strict accordance with the patterns furnished. The sleeve linings may be cut from ends.
b. When sleeve and flap lining are cut from ends the parts shall match and the sleeves shall match each other.
c. Each component part in the top ply of the main lay shall be marked with the size of the garment.
| 3. |
| Cut Trimmings. |
a. The canvas interlinings for coat fronts shall be cut in the direction of the warp.
b. The haircloth for the extra chest piece shall be cut so that the warp is parallel with the break line. The haircloth for the extra shoulder piece shall be cut in the direction of the warp.
c. The twill cloth for the armhole, shoulder, front interlining stays, underarm seam at lower part of armhole shall be cut on the bias. The belt interlining, bi swing backstays, reinforcing buttons and buttonholes and pocket stays shall be cut in the direction of the warp. The twill cloth for taping the back of the neck shall be cut across the width of the cloth.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
3.
Cont Bottom
d. The two pieces of collar canvas interlining and the wigan for the sleeve buttons shall be cut on the bias. The collar canvas interlining shall not be cut in one piece.
e. The flannel padding for the coat front shall be cut in the direction of the warp.
f. The material for the inside hanging lower pockets and change pocket shall be cut in the direction of the warp and the napped side shall be on the inside of the finished pockets.
g. The cloth, rayon lining for binding the top edge of the bottom turn up shall be on the inside of the finished pockets.
h. The cloth, rayon lining for binding the top edge of the bottom turn up shall be 1” wide and cut on the bias.
| 4. |
| Replacement of Damaged Parts. |
a. Replace at time of cutting any parts containing shade bars, holes or weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats and loose slubs likely to develop into a hole.
b. Replace any parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 5. |
| SHADE MARKING. |
a. Shade mark all component parts of the overcoat except those cut from ends (see 3.9.2). Sleeve linings, whether cut from ends or in the main lay, shall be shade marked.
b. The numbering shall at times start from the same position for all parts; for example, if the ply number 1 is used for the top ply, then the top and the next ply below facing the top ply must be number 1 for all parts.
| c. Spread shoulder dart as indicated by patterns and seam wedge piece of canvas to interlining at shoulder dart with the edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on underneath side of interlining. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| 6. |
| MAKE INTERLINING FOR FRONTS. |
| a. Seam together through twill cloth stay pieces overlapped edges of waist dart and lower edge of waist dart at back edge of interlining. The overlapped edges may be stitched together prior to stitching through twill cloth stay piece. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| b. The armhole dart shall be open with a wedge piece of canvas stitched to the bottom side of dart with edges overlapping. The wedge piece shall be on underneath side of interlining. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| c. Spread shoulder dart on haircloth or monofilament chest piece of interlining and seam wedge piece of haircloth or monofilament to chest piece at shoulder dart with the edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on underside of haircloth or monofilament chest piece. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
6.
cont
| d. Spread shoulder dart on extra shoulder piece of haircloth and seam wedge piece of haircloth to shoulder piece at shoulder dart with the edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on topside of shoulder piece. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| e. The armhole dart on haircloth chest piece of interlining shall be open with a wedge piece of haircloth stitched to bottom side of dart with edges overlapping. Wedge piece shall be on topside of haircloth chest piece. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| f. Position haircloth chest piece of interlining on front interlining in accordance with marks on patterns and seam chest piece on front and bottom edges to front interlining. Wedge pieces on the interlining and haircloth chest and shoulder pieces shall finish on the inside between the chest piece and the interlining. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| g. Place additional row of zig zag stitching vertically through center of chest piece. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
| h. The canvas shall extend beyond the shoulder, armhole, and side of interlining. Shoulder portion of interlining shall be left open to accommodate the shoulder pad. |
| 304 |
| 4-8 |
| 70/2 |
| 70/2 |
i. Mark Fronts. The size of coat front shall be legibly stamped with indelible black ink on the lower end of each left and right front and in letters not less than 1/2” in height. The size marking shall include AFA, the numerical designation (see 1.4) followed by the letter S for Short, R for Regular, L for Long, and XL for Extra Long. An example of this marking is 10R.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 7. |
| MAKE FRONTS. |
| a. Sew the cut out front neck darts, starting at top of dart with 3/8” seam, and taper to nothing approximately 1” beyond the end of the dart. Sew front waist dart starting approximately 1” above the end of the dart and ending approximately 1” below the end of the dart. Join underarm dart with 3/8” seam. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12-14 |
| A A |
| b. Sew a 1/4” tape on each front from front neck dart to within 1/2” of shoulder. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12-14 |
| A A |
| c. Sew a strip of bias cut twill cloth on each shoulder starting at 1 1/2” away from neck to 1” away from armhole. Sew bias tape to armhole, starting 1” below shoulder and stopping 1” away from front armhole. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 8-10 |
| A A |
| d. Sew 1/4” tape to armhole starting approximately 2” above the front notch, holding tape firm at front. Continue sewing and hold tape easy at the base of armhole. Continue sewing tape and hold taut at back of armhole, from armhole dart to side seam. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 8-10 |
| A A |
| 8. |
| PRESS FRONT DARTS AND ARMHOLES. |
a. Press front darts and underarm dart seams open solidly with a heated iron, holding front waist darts and underarm dart seams short and the front of the overcoat straight. Press armhole tapes flat.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 8. cont |
| b. Press fronts individually on a chest pressing machine keeping the fronts and front darts straight. |
| 9 |
| MARK FRONTS FOR POCKETS. |
a. Mark fronts for position of lower pocket openings and pocket flaps as indicated by patterns.
b. Measure front edges of pocket mark to ascertain that the pockets are parallel with front edge of the overcoat.
| 10. |
| MAKE FLAPS. |
| a. Seam lower pocket flaps, trim, turn, work out corners and single stitch edges 1/2” gage. |
| 301 |
| SSe-2 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
b. Press flaps smooth and flat with hand iron or pressing machine.
c. Mark flaps with shaper to assure proper size. The flaps shall conform to finished flap shapers.
d. Mark across top of flap and trim the excess fabric.
| 11. |
| MAKE CHANGE POCKET |
| a. Stitch a facing of basic fabric to one end of pocket. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| b. Stitch a facing of rayon lining fabric to other end of pocket. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
| c. Slit the top of cotton flannel pocketing material the width of the change pocket. Turn under front edge of pocketing and top stitch front edge of change pocket 1/2”. Stitch change pocket to front of pocketing 3/16” gage. Stitch back part of change pocket to back side of rayon facing material 1/16” gage. Stitch completely around change pocket to back side of pocketing material. |
| 301 |
| LSd-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
d. The top edge of the change pocket is to be even with the joining seam of the pocketing and rayon-facing piece and measure 3 1/2” wide and 4” deep. The change pocket shall be on the inside of the right pocket of the overcoat only.
| 12. |
| MAKE POCKETS AND STITCH ON FLAPS. |
| a. The pocket portion that has been faced with basic fabric shall be stitched on the overcoat front to marks performed in Operation 9. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| b. The pocket flaps shall be stitched on the overcoat to marks performed in Operation 9. Both the pockets and flaps shall be stitched through a twill cloth stay piece on the underside of overcoat. Twill cloth stay piece shall extend to and be caught in the side seam stitching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
c. Cut opening, between the pocket and flap stitching through the overcoat and twill cloth stay. Notch corners and turn pocket through opening.
| d. Open seam and single stitch through seam forming a 3/8” lower welt. Tack corners of welt on the underside to pocket. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
| e. Turn the flap down with the flap seam up and stitch flap seam through the pocket and lining-facing piece. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| f. Tack corners through both sides of pocket and seam around the pockets. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| g. Raise stitch the top of flap, 1/2” gage, forming a 1/2” welt with ends of the welt tacked on the outside. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
h. Pocket shall be approximately 8” deep when finished.
| i. Tack twill cloth stay piece to edge of side seam outlet 1/4” gage. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| 13. |
| PRESS FRONTS WITH POCKETS. |
a. After pockets and flaps have been sewn on, the fronts shall be individually pressed on a breast pressing machine, keeping the front edge a straight line and holding the underarm seam short.
b. Press pockets and fronts individually on a breast machine prior to basting interlining.
| 14. |
| BASTE FRONTS TO INTERLINING. |
a. Spread and smooth out fronts on the interlining, which shall extend beyond the gorge, shoulders and armhole.
| b. Baste fronts to interlining with the first row of basting from below the shoulder point, through the center of the breast, following in front of the waist dart, down through pocket flap and pocket to bottom of overcoat. |
| 301 |
| Hopper |
or
Hand
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
| c. Tack front darts to the interlining. Securely tack lower pocket stay to interlining at front. |
| 301 |
| Hopper |
or
3 - 4
| d. Baste second row of basting across shoulder allowing room for setting shoulder pads; baste around armhole and down back edge of interlining to top edge of lower pocket flap inserting breast fullness. Baste third row of basting along break line of rever and down front edge of interlining to bottom of overcoat. Baste a fourth row of basting vertically in between the first and third rows of basting and 1” in front of pocket edge. |
| 301 |
| Hopper |
e. Trim away excess canvas around shoulder and armhole. Insert shoulder pad between canvas and flannel in proper position and securely basted to interlining.
| 15. |
| PRESS FRONTS AND INTERLINING. |
Under press the fronts individually on right and left steam overcoat chest pressing machine. The front edge of the forepart shall be straight. Press revers on a steam jumper machine.
| 16. |
| MAKE HALF BELT. |
| a. Twill cloth shall be basted to belt as it is folded, catching twill cloth and belt in the fold. |
| 101 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
b. Raw edges of belt shall be abutted on the underside and basted to hold. Belt shall be pressed and attached to the overcoat.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
c. Press belt smooth and flat. Half belt to finish 2 1/8” (+ 1/8”) wide after pressing.
Note: Width of finished belt shall be 2 1/8” +1/8” wide.
| 17. |
| MAKE BACK. |
| a. Stitch a 1/4” tape along the outside crease edge of the bi-swing. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| b. Stitch a 1/4” tape to back armhole from the side seam to within 3/4” of the shoulder. Hold tape taut; approximately 3/8” “take-up” shall occur. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| c. Form bi-swing by folding outside edge of bi-swing and stitch with 1/2” gage. Fold and stitch inside edge of bi-swing and stitch with 1/8” gage. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| d. Fold bi-swing in place according to notches and top stitch from shoulder down 2 1/2” to 3” on top of bi-swing stitch. Stitch lower edge of bi-swing starting at 2 1/2” above bi-swing fold and stitch down and across to end of side seam. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| e. Seam a 2” wide strip of twill cloth back of crease edge of left vent. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| f. Fold back edge of right vent 1/2” and stitch down with 1/4” gage stitch. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| g. Join back seam with 3/4” seam as indicated by notches. Stitch down to 3/8” below top of vent and stitch across top of vent. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
| h. Seam 5/8” wide strip of cross cut twill cloth tape across top of neck at back extending from shoulder seam to shoulder seam across center seam. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
i. Fold right vent according to notch and baste vent.
j. Baste half belt in proper position and stitch belt through and across back with 1/2” gage at top and bottom edges of the belt.
| k. Notch right back seam at vent and press seam open. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
l. Place the whole armhole, front and back, on a pressing buck and press smooth and solid holding armhole short. Press the belt and center vent smooth.
| 18. |
| JOIN LINING TO BACK. |
| a. Join back seam of lining from the neck area to the top of the vent opening. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| b. Join left vent lining to left vent with 3/8” seam. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| c. Fold edge of right lining and place on top of right vent and stitch lining to vent 1/8” stitch. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| d. Sew Velcro and pile to vent. Sew a 3/4” x 3/4” strip of Velcro to left vent, catching through the folded vent and the twill cloth interlining. The Velcro shall be placed in the center of the folded vent approximately 8” below the top stitching of the vent. The pile on the right vent shall be sewn through the right vent and lining and it shall correspond with the Velcro when the vent assembly is completed. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
e. In sewing the lining to the vent a 1” pleat is required to form a bellows at the bottom turn up of the overcoat.
| f. Form a 1” pleat and baste lining on center seam. |
| 301 |
or
| g. Systemize the lining on back and place a second basting starting from center seam along the shoulder seam around the armhole and continue basting down to the edge bottom of the coat. This basting shall be placed on both sides of the back and far enough away from the shoulder and side seams so that it shall not interfere with the joining of side seams. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| h. Top stitch left vent from top of vent to bottom of back with 1 3/4” + 1/8” stitch. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| i. Form a diagonal box stitch at the top of the vent 1/2” side catching through the right and left vent and through the lining. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| 19. |
| JOIN SIDE SEAMS. |
| a. Join side seams with a 3/4” seam allowance catching ends of half belt in the stitching. |
| 301 |
| SSa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
b. Press the side seams open and flat. Hold the waistline short.
| 20. |
| MEASURE COAT LENGTH AND SHAPE THE REVERS (LAPELS) AND BOTTOM. |
a. Measure coat to exact length.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
b. Place rever shaper on revers, mark and shape revers, fronts and bottom of coat. The left vent should be marked 1/8” longer than the right vent.
c. When marking front of pocket check to see that the front line of the pocket flaps are parallel to the front edge.
d. Trim canvas from rever and front edges 1/4” from edge.
e. Back edge of interlining at bottom may be cut diagonally so that the bottom edge is not caught in the tape blind stitching across bottom.
| 21. |
| BIND THE BOTTOM. |
| Bind the bottom turn-up edge of the overcoat with a 1” bias cut rayon. |
| 301 |
| Bsb-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A |
| 22. |
| MAKE LININGS. |
| a. Join underarm darts. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A |
| b. Join front lining to facing, with proper fullness distributed in chest area, and ease lining to lower part of facing. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| c. Sew contractor’s label on the right side of facing, approximately 10” down from shoulder seam. Sew label on all four sides. |
| 301 |
| Lsd-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
d. Press the facing and front dart toward side seam.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 23. |
| BASTE FACINGS TO OVERCOAT. |
a. Match and fit the completed lining to the overcoat.
b. Baste facing to overcoat, working in fullness over the chest area. The facing along the edges shall be smooth with the facing being held taut across the revers and bottom of front.
Hand or machine 1” to 2” long
| 24. |
| JOIN FACINGS AND FRONTS WITH TAPE. |
a. Join the facing and fronts together 1/4” from the rever notch across top of rever, down to bottom corner of the front and across bottom edges of overcoat to the vent with a 5/8” wide stay tape positioned on the interlining side of fronts and caught in the stitching.
| b. The 5/8” tape shall extend from rever notch across the top of rever, down front and across bottom of edges of overcoat to the vent. Sew tape with normal tension along top and front edges of rever and with slight tension on front edge of overcoat. |
| 301 |
| Ssd-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| c. Fell inside edge of tape to overcoat front interlining. |
| 103 |
| Ssm-1 |
or
Hand
| 4 - 6 |
| O A |
d. Press fronts and bottom edges solid and flat; pull out facing basting. Press front edges open starting at top of the rever and press down to the bottom of the coat.
e. Trim the excess material around the rever and bottom of the coat and turn edges.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 25. |
| BASTE EDGES. Work out the rever points and the bottom corners of the fronts. Baste the edges, revers and bottom. Left vent to be 1/8” longer than right vent. Edges and revers to be properly worked out. The edge seam of the revers and front shall be worked to the inside; the edge seam shall not be exposed to the front of the overcoat. |
| 101 |
or
Hand
| Ssa-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
2 - 4 Hopper
| 26. |
| SECOND BASTING OF FACINGS. |
| a. Place second basting along the front and rever approximately 1” away from the edge. |
| 301 |
or
Hand
| Ssa-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
| b. Starting at the front neck dart baste down the approximate break line of the front. |
| 301 |
or
Hand
| Ssa-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
| c. Place fullness over the chest area of the coat and baste facing. |
| 101 |
or
Hand
| Ssa-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
| d. Fell the back edge of the facings to the interlining with blind stitching from the bound edge of the bottom turn up to not more than 3” below the shoulder edge. |
| 103 |
| Efc-1 |
| 6 - 8 |
| O O |
| 27. |
| JOIN LINING. |
| a. Join side seam of front lining to side seam of back lining with ¾” seam. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
b. Press seam flat with back folded over front.
| 28. |
| BASTE LINING. |
a. Smooth out lining.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
| b. Baste pleats at armhole. The pleats shall be basted lengthwise/vertical along the facing. The pleats shall be one inch deep, approximately eight inches long starting at the shoulder seam, and 1 1/2 inches in from the rever facing. Continue basting around armhold toward side seam; smooth out lining, work in proper fullness of lining. Continue basting along side seam to approximately 8” from bottom of overcoat. Continue basting back to the front facing. Baste lining on right front in same manner, starting at the bottom front facing to side seam to around armhole. |
| Hand |
or machine
1” to 2”
Hopper
c. Allowing for 1” bellow turn up of lining at bottom turn up, trim away excess lining.
| d. Tuck in the trimmed raw edge of lining into the bottom turn up and place basting along edge of seam binding, catching the lining. |
| Hand |
or machine
1” to 2”
| e. Position the bellows turn up and baste in place along the bottom turn up of the overcoat. |
| Hand |
or machine
1” to 2”
f. Turn coat and trim excess lining and facing around neck, shoulders, armhold, and back.
| 29. |
| FELL LINING. Blind stitch lining on the bottom; stitches shall not show through to the outside of the overcoat. |
| 301 |
| Efc-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
| O O |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 30. |
| MAKE SHOULDER BOARD LOOPS. |
| a. Make shoulder board loops. A strip of elastique shall be folded to center with the edges overlapped and double stitched 3/16” to 1/4” gage with a covering stitch on the underside. Loops shall finish 3/8” wide, se Figure 3. |
| 406 |
| Efh-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
A A
b. Cut four loops 1 7/8” long for each coat.
c. Front end of loops shall be turned under prior to stitching onto coat. Back end of loops shall be caught in shoulder seam stitching.
| d. First loops on each shoulder shall finish 1 3/8” long and be located 3/4” to 1” up from armhole seam, see Figure 3. Opening of first loops shall be 1 1/4”. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| e Second loops on each shoulder shall finish 1 1/8” long parallel with first loop and be 2 3/4” up from first loop but not more than 3 3/4” up from armhole seam, see Figure 3. Opening of second loops shall be 1”. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
NOTE: Measurement for placement of shoulder loops shall be taken along the shoulder seam.
| 31. |
| JOIN SHOULDERS. |
| Join shoulder seams with a 3/8” seam allowance working in fullness on the back between notches. Catch ends of shoulder board loops in the stitching. Position folded edge of bi-swing to finish even with edge of armhole at shoulder seam |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
A A
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 32. |
| PRESS SHOULDER SEAMS. |
a. Press seam open with a heated iron or pressing machine over suitable block, holding shoulder short and to the front.
b. Press ends of shoulder board loops toward the front.
| 33. |
| BASTE PART OF SHOULDER. Baste the upper Hand portion of shoulders and across the back by hand. |
| 34. |
| MAKE THE UNDERCOLLAR. |
a. Join undercollar stand to undercollar matching the notches.
b. Place edge of undercollar stand interlining along and below the collar seam, and stitch interlining to under collar stand. The interlining shall be stitched to the undercollar stand with at least 5 rows of stitching approximately 1/4” apart.
| c. Turn the seam toward undercollar stand, place undercollar interlining on top of seam and stitch interlining catching through the lap seam and undercollar stand. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
A A
| d. Pad interlining to undercollar with at least nine to ten rows of blind stitching. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
e. Press collar smooth, press break line, shape collar by stretching over the shoulder area as required.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
f. Place properly sized shaper on the collar and mark the collar. Shape collar by cutting away the excess material.
NOTE:Using dies conforming to required shape and dimension may perform the collar shaping operation.
g. Trim 3/16” of canvas interlining at the collar stand.
| 35. |
| MAKE THE TOP COLLAR. |
| a. Sew top collar stand to top collar with 1/4” seam matching the notches. Open seam and stitch down both sides of seam with stitch 1/16” in from edge. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
b. Press and shape top collar, stretch over shoulder area as required.
| c. Baste undercollar to top collar putting fullness over shoulder and at the collar points. |
| Hand |
or
2 - 4
| d. Sew undercollar to top collar with 1/4” seam. Sew ends and top edges of collar, making sure corners are slightly rounded. |
| 301 |
or
Hand
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
e. Remove basting and press collar seam open.
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
| f. Baste along edge of collar working top collar edge beyond undercollar. Place another row of basting one inch away from edge; work in fullness over shoulders and points of collar. |
| Hand |
or
Machine
2 - 4
g. Press completed collar.
| h. Baste along edge of collar working top collar edge beyond undercollar. Place another row of basting one inch away from edge, work in fullness over shoulders and points of collar. |
| Hand |
or
Machine
2 - 4
i. Press completed collar.
j. Trim away excess top collar at the bottom edge of collar.
| 36. |
| ATTACH COLLAR TO OVERCOAT. |
a. Mark the collar stand and the gorge of the overcoat.
b. Join the top collar to facing, starting at the front neck dart and continue sewing to the end of the facing. Stop and join other end of collar to facing in the same manner.
| c. Notch facing 5” in from the edge of collar. Starting from the right side, open seam and tack seam to the front and interlining. Continue sewing collar across the shoulders and across the neck to the left side of the collar, catching the hangar in this operation. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| d. Baste undercollar to overcoat along the marking, matching center notch to back center seam, and placing required fullness over the shoulder area. |
| 301 |
2 - 4
| e. Hand tack the corners of the collar before edge stitching. |
| Hand |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 37. |
| Stitch the edges, revers, collar and bottom with a 1/2” gage, stopping at the end of the facing. |
| 301 |
| Sse-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
A A
| 38. |
| MAKE BUTTONHOLES ON FRONT |
a. Mark the location of 5 horizontal buttonholes on the left front as indicated by the patterns. The bottom buttonhole shall be approximately in line with the pocket opening. The top buttonhole shall be 1 1/4” below top edge of left rever front. The remaining buttonholes shall be equally spaced between the top and bottom buttonholes.
b. The two buttonholes on the right front shall correspond with the top and bottom buttonhole on the left front.
| c. Make a “cut first”, horizontal, eyelet end, square bar type buttonhole at each of the marks on the left and right fronts to fit a 36-line button worked over gimp. The inside edge of the eyelet shall be 7/8” from the front edge of the overcoat. |
| Button |
hole
Machine
85 - 90 per button-hole, not including bartack F B
d. The bartack shall catch thread and gimp with the gimp pulled through to underside. The bartacking shall be a separate operation from buttonhole making. The purling shall finish on the outside of the fronts.
| e. Securely bartack the ends of each buttonhole and trim the ends of the gimp. Note: Black colored thread shall be used for all buttonholes and buttonhole bartacking operation. |
| Bartack |
per tack A A
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
Top Bottom
| 39. |
| PRESS EDGES. Press the edges of the collar, revers and front and bottom turn up of the overcoat on an edge-pressing machine. Pressing of edges, bottom and collar shall be a firm and solid pressing and the edges and bottom shall be pressed short. |
| 40. |
| MAKE SLEEVES. |
| a. Join the forearm seam of the sleeve distributing fullness between notches with a 3/8” seam allowance on top sleeve and 1/2” outlet on front of undersleeve. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
b. Press forearm seam open and flat by laying undersleeve smooth on a pressing table, keeping the top sleeve short between the notches. Maintain the curvature of the undersleeve during this pressing operation.
c. Establish the finished sleeve length and mark bottom turn up. Mark location of lower edge of the sleeve braid, which shall be 3” + 1/8” above the turn up mark.
d. Position the sleeve on top of the sleeve wigan interlining. The wigan interlining shall extend from the sleeve braid to 1” below the bottom sleeve turn up.
| e. Sew on braid to sleeve on top and lower edges with a 1/16” gage. Lower edge of the stitching shall catch the wigan interlining. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| NO. |
| TABLE I |
DESCRIPTION OF OPERATION
| Stitch Type |
| Stitches Per Inch |
| Seam and Stitching Type |
| Thread |
f. Fold bottom turn up of sleeve and press. Press sleeve braid flat.
| g. Join the back arm seam of the sleeves with a 3/8” seam allowance catching wigan and braid in the seam. The braid shall join evenly at the back arm seam in the finished sleeve. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
h. Press back arm seam by placing the sleeve on a curved pressing stand and press seam open, keeping sleeve short around the elbow area.
| i. Blind stitch the top edge of the turn up to the wigan. No stitches shall show through to the outside of the sleeve. |
| 301 |
| Ssm-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
| O O |
| 41. |
| MAKE SLEEVE LINING. Join the forearm and the back arm seams of sleeve lining. |
| 301 |
| Ssa-1 |
| 12 - 14 |
| A A |
| 42. |
| TACK SLEEVE LININGS TO SLEEVES. |
| a. Tack forearm and back arm seams of sleeve lining to forearm and back seam of sleeve. Ease the lining on a little. The tacking is to start 5” above the turn up edge of the sleeve and sleeve. Both the start and finish are to be securely backstitched. |
| 101 or |
301 or
Hand
| Ssa-1 |
| 4 - 6 |
| b. Baste turn up of sleeve lining to the sleeve. Sleeve lining is to be 1” from the edge of the sleeve. The turn up of sleeve lining is to be not less than 2 1/4”. |
| Hand |
2 - 4
| c. The sleeve lining may be felled to the bottom of the sleeve without basting. |
| Hand or |
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