Attachment 9 - Interagency Fence Specs.pdf

USDI Bureau of Land Management

USDA Forest Service Technology & Development Program

Society for Range Management

Second Printing February 1999

'Pences

'Pences

Sponsored by Vegetative Rehabilitation and Equipment Workshop

Prepared by Missoula Technology & Development Center

Richard Karsky Project Leader

July 1988

5E42D31-Range Structural Equipment ii

The Vegetative Rehabilitation and Equipment Workshop (VREW) is an informal group of Federal and State agencies, universities, professional organ izations, and private citizens concerned with effective land management practices.

This handbook was prepared at their request by the USDA Forest Service Technology and Develop ment Center at Missoula, Montana. Bill Duffy, MTDC Equipment Specialist, was the primary author; Brad McBratney, MTDC Equipment Special ist,· Brenda Holland and DeLynn Colvert completed the text and illustrations. Questions should be directed to Richard Kru:sky, Project Leader, Missoula Technology and Development Center, Bldg. 1, Fort Missoula, Missoula, MT 59801.

Disclaimer

CAUTION: Pesticides can be injurious to humans, domestic animals, desirable plants, and fish or other wildlife-if they are not handled or applied properly. Use all pesticides selectively and care fully. Follow recommended practices for the disposal of surplus pesticides and pesticide con tainers.

The mention of products and companies by name does not constitute endorsement by the USDA, nor does it imply approval of a product to the exclusion of others that may also be suitable.

Introduction Planning

Gathering Site Information Locating The Fence Choosing A Fence Design Clearing The Right-Of-Way Laying Out The Fence Safety

Components Braces And Posts Brace Designs Gates Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 Tools

Fence Options Electric Fences Wire Fences Wood Fences

Bibliography Index iii iv

As part of the continuing effort to develop and test revegetation equipment and provide informa tion about suitable equipment to land managers, the Vegetative Rehabilitation and Equipment Workshop (VREW) has consolidated structural improvement handbooks now scattered through every agency into three volumes:

Fences Facilities for Handling, Sheltering, and Trailing

Livestock Water-Pumping, Piping, Damming, and Storing

This volume describes components and uses of fences and gates and their advantages and dis advantages; costs; and safety, environmental and construction features. Pertinent books and articles are included in the Bibliography. The handbook is intended for use by private, federal, and state range land managers.

Fencing controls the movement of livestock, other animals, and people. Fences help manage grazing and they protect animals, people, and vegetation.

Costs and potential environmental impacts of any fence dictate careful planning. New materials, designs, and construction practices have reduced the cost of some fences, but considerations for wild animal movement, esthetics, recreation, and the environment may increase costs. Timing is also important. Post hole aiggers and post drivers operate better in the spring when the ground is moist but not muddy. The availability of labor and material may also affect timing. Therefore, ob jectives must be carefully studied before a fencing operation begins. Careful planning will insure maximum benefits.

Costs cited in this handbook are general and intended to provide a basis for comparing various fence designs. Costs in your area may be somewhat different than those we have cited.

Introductiofl The following procedures are presented in the order most fencing operations would follow:

1. Coordinate planning with all appropriate land owners and managers

2. Gather site information and choose an appro-priate fence design

3. Secure easements and clear right-of-way

4. Survey and mark land lines

5. Locate fence line

6. Choose fence design

7. Layout fence

8. Plan spacing and location of braces, posts, gates, and cattleguards

9. Set corner, gate, and line braces

10. Set line posts

11. Stretch wire

12. Place stays

13. Ground all wire fences

14. Set gates and cattleguards

(Photo courtesy University of Montana Mansfield Library.)

The first objective when building a fence is to plan its construction carefully. Analyze the site;

consider its topography, its soil, its vegetation;

the materials available and their costs. Consider the users of the area to be fenced-both people and animals. Choose an appropriate design. Secure easements, clear right-of-way, locate the fence, and lay it out.

It is essential that you coordinate planning with anyone who will be affected by the fence. Even when constructing a fence on your own land for example, wildlife migration routes may be dis turbed, so wildlife managers should be consulted.

Consult people who may have permits or leases on or near the area to be fenced. You may want to consult conservation organizations; federal, state, and local government agencies that adjoin the area;

state highway departments; authorized public land users; people who use public access sites; adjacent land owners. Cooperation with all those affected will help avoid possible conflicts and, more impor tantly, make the fence an effective resource tool.

Gathering Site Information A variety of fence designs are available to fit the needs of a site. Consider topography, soil type, visual impacts, recreation use, moisture conditions, wild animal use, and run-off before you chose a design. No single fence design will fit all conditions and if appropriate choices are not made, fences will fail.

Proposed fences must not be constructed in areas planned for future energy, minerals, and road development unless:

a. The fence will not be affected by develop ment or is a required part of the development;

b. The principal features or components of the fence can economically be salvaged and used again;

c. The benefits yielded before the fence is destroyed or abandoned exceed the cost of installing and maintaining the fence.

Planning The analysis of the fencing site should include:

1. Type of Soil-Sandy soils will require more braces and closer spacing than firm soils. Rocky soils may require fences built of rock jacks with figure-four posts or straddle jacks. Marshy areas may require the construction of figurecfour or straddle jack posts with long flotation boards that keep the fence on top of the marsh.

2. Topography-Do not fence into areas where animals are naturally obstructed. Fencing in a straight line up a hill may cause erosion. However, fences should be on as straight a line as possible to reduce the costs. Use the lay of the land to make the fence most efficient. Getting materials to steep sites adds expense.

3. Snow Conditions-Areas of light snow usually do not require special fencing designs. However, blown snow will approximate heavy snow conditions and may require special fence designs.

Moderate snow requires stronger fence than light snow. Fences exposed to heavy snow require straddle jacks with wire or pole fencing, or worm, block and log, post and pole wood fences or let-down fences. Be sure to check the proposed fence line during late winter or early spring. This allows you to identify problem areas and design the most appropriate fence.

4. Water-Fences across gullies or streams may require special braces and designs. Seasonal runoff needs break-away fences or swinging water gaps.

Swinging water gaps or floating water gaps should span running streams.

5. Accessibility-Fences should have easy access for construction and maintenance. Fences have to be constructed where they will accomplish planned objectives, but construct them in the most access ible area possible. Power fences must have access to a power supply-a main line, a solar power panel, or easily exchanged batteries.

6. Boundaries-External property boundaries should be located surveyed, and marked before construction. Exfsting fences usually figure strongly in disputes, so accurate bound~es are essential. Fences along state or county highways may be governed by state or county laws.

Coordinate your planning with approp~ate officials and with adjacent land owners. This not only avoids disputes, but may open opportunities for cost-sharing.

7. People Access-Consider installing narrow walk-through gates, post pass-through openings, or other access structures to improve esthetics and

8. Visual Impact-Select a form, line, color, and texture that blends with the landscape. The most critical locations are along major travel routes and across openings. As much as possible, keep fences out of view. Where practical, fences should be placed slightly inside vegetation surrounding openings. Landforms may reduce visual impact.

A fence across a slope, viewed against a landform and vegetative background, is less offensive than one silhouetted against the sky. Avoid bulldozer clearing or major soil disturbance.

9. Vegetation-Fences may protect natural wetlands, streambanks, woodlands, and plants.

Keep fences away from heavy vegetation and areas of potential blowdown.

10. Animals-Various kinds of animals (horses, cattle, sheep, elk, and deer) and classes of animals ( different ages and sexes) may require specific fence designs. Fences can be built to accommodate or exclude wildlife.

11. Safety-All wire fences must be grounded to protect man and animals from lightning.

Grounding should be done at both ends of the fence line, at each brace panel, on both sides of a gate, on both sides of a power line crossing, and where there is excessive moistureo Drive galvan ized pipe into the ground at these sites and attach a ground wire from this pipe to all the fencing wires.

Precautions should be taken to insure the safety of construction and maintenance crews.

Locating The Fence

Fence lines should be carefully surveyed and clearly marked. Established fences are often the subject of court cases, so be particularly careful in surveying and marking boundary fences. Fence lines to be built inside property lines can be located wherever they meet the land manager's objectives. These objectives include managing vegetation, livestock, wildlife; controlling access to water, gullies, heavy snowbanks, marshes, wildlife migration routes, or areas of high visual impact. When fencing water, be sure to consider wildlife access. Consider the topography of the site in locating your fence and plan to keep con struction and maintenance costs as low as possible.

Choosing A Fence Design

The fence design that you choose depends on a number of factors including the intended purpose, visual impact, soil types, vegetation, topography to be crossed, maintenance requirements, materials available, labor and material costs, weather, and expected life span. No single factor determines the design of fence. Weigh your priorities and choose a fence based on your goals and needs.

For example, a 2-strand smooth wire fence will not keep buffalo in, but can effectively direct people.

Or, a high tensile wire fence with fiberglass posts is a good choice in areas of high snow. The following tables list common designs, their advan tages and disadvantages, and a rough estimate of their costs. By considering all your needs and goals carefully, you can insure the most effective fence possible for the area to be fenced.

A Summary of Fence Designs

Costs Maintenance Material Labor Total

Fence Type Advantages Disadvantages Rating $/Mile $/Mile $/Mile

Conventional Skills & designs for Labor & material costs Medium $2,100 $2,000 $4,100 4-strand barbed construction readily high.

wire available.

Gancho 4-strand Longer life than Wire less workable than Unknown 2,000 2,000 4,000 barbed wire conventional barbed conventional barbed wire. 20-30% less wire.

expensive than con-ventional barbed wire. Lighter weight, less strain.

Woven wire w/top Skills and designs for Labor & material costs Medium 2,800 2,000 4,800

2-strand barbed construction readily, high.

wire available. Good control of sheep & cattle.

Let-down fence Prevents fence damage Labor & material costs High 3,500 2,300 5,800 4-strand barbed in high snow pack & high. Life span short wire high wildlife con- because of wire centration. corrosion.

High-tensile 8-strand Durable. Less expensive Requires special equipment Low 1,700 900 2,600 smooth wire to install & maintain than & techniques to. install.

conventional barbed wire.

Withstands more than other wire. No barbs.

High tensile Very durable. Less Requires special Low 1,900 1,000 2,900

10-strand expensive to install equipment& smooth wire & maintain than techniques to conventional barbed install.

wire. Withstands more than other wire.

No barbs.

Conventional barbed Few posts. Low costs. Not appropriate in rough Low 1,200 600 1,800 wire suspension Long life. Alternative broken country or in w /wood stays for interior & cross- areas of tall, dense fencing. vegetation. Won't detour cattle near water. Great down-fence distance w/post breakage.

Conventional barbed Fewer posts. Low costs. Not appropriate in rough Low 900 500 1.400 wire suspension Long life. Alternative broken country or in w /wire stays for interior & cross- areas of tall, dense fencing. vegetation. Won't detour cattle near water Great down-fence dis-tance w/post breakage.

High-tensile smooth Few posts. Low costs. Not appropriate in rough Low 1,100 600 1,700 wire suspension Long life. Alternative broken ..:ountry or"in w/wood posts for interior & cross- areas of tall, dense fencing. vegetation. Won't detour cattle near water. Great down-fence distance w/post breakage.

A Summary of Fence Designs (continued) Costs

Maintenance Material Labor Total f'ence Type Advanta11es Disadvantages Rating $/Mile $/Mile $/Mile

High-tensile smooth Few posts. Low costs. Not appropriate in rough Low 800 400 1,200 wire suspension Long life. Alternative broken country or in w /steel posts for interior & cross- areas of tall, dense fencing. vegetation. Won't detour cattle near water. Great down-fence distance w/post breakage.

Permanent electric Lower costs than con- Not appropriate in rough Low 1,000 300 1,300 conventional, ventional barbed wire. broken terrain.

barbed wire Long life. Versatile.

Portable twine & Lightweight portable Weathers poorly. Don't High 1,000 40 1,040 3-strand electric easily adjustable. use in lengths over

1,000 feet.

Permanent electric Durable. Low cost. Good Not a physical Low 800 400 1,200 high-tensile, smooth psychological barrier. barrier.

wire, post & stays. Less maintenance.

Jackleg . wire fence Very durable. Withstands Low

:I heavy snowfall. Useful in

.,, areas where it is hard to

-'i dig or drive posts or on ~~i marshy ground w /use of ~ floation boards.

i'I ii Rock jack & Useful in areas where it High material & labor Low ·;1 '~ figure "4" is hard to dig or drive costs.

'Ii posts. Good in light ·J to heavy snow.

l ~ Jack leg - pole Durable. Withstands High material & labor Low :·1 heavy snowfall. Used in costs.

1 areas where digging or ·, driving is impossible.

l Post & pole Durable. Withstands heavy High material & labor Low snowfall. costs.

I Worm Durable. Withstands heavy If logs not available, Low snowfall. high material costs.

~ Labor intensive.

I Log & block Durable. Withstands If logs not available, Low heavy snowfall. high material costs.

1 Labor intensive.

I •I ·1

Not appropriate in rough, 850 450 1,300 I Suspension fence Few posts, less cost. Low

Little maintenance. broken country. Not Long lasting. Low- suitable in tall, dense cost alternative for vegetation. Not an interior and cross- effective cattle fencing. deterrent near watering points. Greater down-fence distance with post breakage.

Seimisuspension fence Few posts, low cost. Suitable only for flat Low An alternative for or slightly undulating interior or cross- terrain. Not as good a fencing. cattle deterrent as suspension or conven-ional fences.

Site Condition

Sandy Soil

Marshy Soil

Rocky Soil

Loam or Clay Soil

Steep Ground

Heavy Snow

Ridgeline

Water Discharge

Fence Design Based on Site Conditions

Fence Design

Double-end line and gate braces""7ipacing up to 80 rods (¼-mile). Single-line braces-"-1lpacing up to 40 rods (1/8-mile ). Use of deadman on corner, end and gate braces. Use two diagonal braces or one horizontal brace with a diagonal brace on corner, end, or gate location. Need to strengthen ground holding capacity.

Add mud sills (two long poles or boards) to the bottom of a jackleg, straddle jack, buck, or figure-four fence.

Use rock jacks or rock cribs for braces. Use buck or jacklegs or figure-fours for line posts. May want to install steel or fiberglass posts.

Single-end line and gate braces, spacing up to 80 rods.

Put line posts in perpendicular to the land.

Jackleg, straddle jack, or buck fence with wire or pole fencing; post and pole fence; worm fence; log and block fence.

Often a good fence-line location. Easy to maintain and allows effective manage ment. Consider a single strand wire.

Infrequent-Normal fence construction with fence held in depressions with weights attached to the posts.

Seasonal or Frequent Construct end braces on either side of depression.

Construct independent braces for fence in depression. Build break-away fence in depression. Build swinging or floating water gap fence.

Running Stream-Construct end braces on either side of stream. Construct sep arate braces for holding swinging or floating water gap fence.

Site Condition

Wildlife Exclusion Fences

Visual Impact

Difficult Accessibility

Fences for Wildlife

Fence Design

Deer-Electric fence desil!ns: double deer fence;

6 ft, 6 in high 10-strand high-tensile strength fence;

8 ft high 15-strand high tensile strength fence.

Antelope-Electric fence designs: 6 ft, 6 in high 10-strand high-tensile strength fence; 8 ft high 15-strand high-tensile strength fence. Woven wire fence 32 in high with one barbed wire strand on the top.

Elk-Power fence designs:

8 ft high 15-strand high-tensile strength fence.

Wood fences are generally more pleasing in areas of high visitor use. Use standard fence designs for low visual impact.

Use steel line posts for reduced weight and bulk, or consider fiberglass posts with a few wood posts for added strength.

Deer-Fence height:

min. 38 in to max. 42 in.

Spacing between top and second wire 12 in. Moveable top wire or two.

Antelope-Cattle fence height: min. 38 in to max. 42 in. Bottom wire at least 18 in above the ground. Bottom wire should be a smooth wire.

Sheep fence height:

min. 38 in to max. 42 in. Bottom wire smooth at least 10 in above the ground. Leave out fence stays in areas where antelope frequently cross.

Provide small cattle guards at 1-mile intervals for antelope to jump over.

Moveable bottom wire or two.

Elk-Fence height:

min. 38 in to max. 42 in.

Attach wooden rail to top wire for visibility. Construct let-down fence. All fence posts should be wood.

Clearing The Right-Of-Way Clearing is usually accomplished at the same time the fence line is layed out. Rights-of-way should be cleared at least wide enough to permit easy construction and maintenance. If the terrain permits vehicle access, clearing should all be on one side of the fence. Adjacent landowners may cooperate in constructing boundary fences and clearing on both side of the fence may be mutually beneficial.

Wire should be strung on the cleared side of the posts. All division or drift fences should be cleared at least 4 feet on each side of the fence line.

Avoid straight line swaths up mountain sides or hills that cause undesirable visual effects. Leave an occasional tree and shape the side of the right-of way to have an undulating or ragged edge.

Slash from clearing along interior and exterior boundary fences should be used for erosion control or dispersed or burned. Slash should be lopped and scattered off the right-of-way. Dead or leaning trees on or near right-of-way lines should be removed. Down logs should be removed only if they will interfere with construction and main tenance or create a hazard. Logs can sometimes tum runoff on slopes away from the right-of-way.

Bulldozers may effectively be used for clearing and providing access routes for crews, equipment, and material, but avoid unnecessary soil disturb ance. Implements like the Klearway brush cutter, the Hydro-ax brush cutter, and horizontal shredders chop brush and leave it on the ground as a mulch and disturb very little soil.

Laying Out The Fence When the right-of-way has been cleared and the fence has been properly surveyed and marked, follow these procedures in laying out the fence:

To lay out fences in heavy undergrowth:

1 Hold a 12· to 15-foot flag at the end of the fence line with the heaviest growth. Check the pole with a level to make sure it is vertical.

2 Place a 5-foot stake at the other end of the fence line.

5' STAKE AT

OTHER END

3 Sight from short stake, B, to pole. Align stake C as far into the thicket as it can be seen.

A

~~ B -~~----~

~",,-\~_,,,,,.,,.. ~ - STAKE;,, __.,

_ , .,,..,r ~ :r'\... ,,rl

-- -_-~---·" ----:~J,.,-

Clear area between stakes B and C for a distance beyond stake C.

5 Continue to place stakes until line is completed.

To lay fences across open, level areas:

1 Set a stake at each end of the proposed fence line. Station someone at one of the end stakes to help align the remaining stakes.

END STAKE

Align and set a stake about 100 feet from the end stake.

Continue setting additional stakes about every 100 feet until complete fence line is staked.

Align each stake with the end stakes. This is easily done with the help of a person at the end stake sighting through to the other end stake.

To lay out fences on open rolling areas:

A

Set a stake at each end of proposed fence line, stakes A and B.

B t..- ENDS OF PROPOSED FENCE LINE -1

C

A

Place two stakes about 10 feet apart on top of the hill so both are visible from either end stake. In case of a valley, place stakes at the lowest position in the valley.

I

D 1c

ALIGN 11 STAKES _.

I I Align the two center stakes, C and D, from one of the other end stakes

D

------ B

Check alignment of the center stakes from the other end stake. Center stakes may have to be moved several times before satisfactory alignment can be secured from both end stakes.

I ',D

C 11 ALIGN

+j STAKES

C D -------

To lay out fence line on contour:

Stake out a smooth curve along a contour strip or terrace. Space stakes about 16 feet apart. If following a terrace ridge, place stakes below the ridge so the terrace can be maintained.

If there is much curve at any one point, select three stakes at the points of greatest curvature.

Stretch string between the first stake, A, and the third stake, C.

Measure distance from the center stake, B, to the string.

5 If the center stake is more than 4 inches from the string, decrease the spacing based on the following tabulation:

Post Spacing for Contour Fences

Distance from center stake to string inches

4 or less 4-5 5-6 6-8 8-14

14-20

Recommended post spacing feet

6 Set posts to the recommended spacing.

Repeat steps 3 to 6 wherever there is a curve.

Check by sight to see that no single post is out of line of the smooth curve. Keepinf a smooth curve will insure that fence wire wil pull equally against each post.

Safety

Precautions must be taken when constructing fences. Anyone building fences is subject to cuts and scratches as well as other accidents. Accidents and injuries can be prevented by always observing safety precautions:

1. Wear tightly woven, tough clothing.

2. Wear heavy-duty, gauntlet-type leather gloves that fit snugly.

3. Wear long pants and high work shoes with heavy soles.

4. Have the right tool for each job; keep it in good condition; and use it only according to manufacturer's directions.

5. Wear safety goggles or eye shields when cutting or tensioning wire, and when driving nails or staples.

6. Never carry nails or staples in pants pockets.

Use a nail apron or tool bag.

7. Use proper shields on power equipment.

8. Wear a hard hat and ear plugs or ear muffs when operating power equipment.

9. Use driving caps on posts as recommended by the driver manufacturer.

10. Keep children and livestock away from all fencing operations.

11. When handling, driving, drilling, nailing, or stapling chemically-treated wood posts or lumber, wear face shields and rubber gloves. Cover unprotected skin. Some people are allergic to wood-preserving chemicals.

12. Never take shortcuts or eliminate such items as safety wires on twitch or twist sticks.

13. Pick up all cut ends of wire, dropped staples and nails. They can cause injury to humans, be eaten by grazing livestock, or damage mower blades.

14. Suspend all fencing operations during electrical storms.

15. Install proper ground wires to wire fences as soon as they are erected.

16. Remember that any wire is an excellent conductor. Be careful when stringing guide wires or line wires so they do not contact power lines. Do not install fences under power lines or near buried power lines.

When you have completed the site analysis, located the fence, chosen an appropriate design, cleared the right-of-way, laid out the fence, and analyzed safety needs, a review of the proposed fencing operation with all those affected will insure that all resource values and needs are met before construc tion begins.

Braces, corner posts, and line posts are the most important components of a fence, since they determine its effectiveness and life expectancy.

Gates, cattleguards and less common components like stiles, ladders, and walk-throughs may be included, depending on the needs at your site.

Braces and posts can be installed in a variety of ways and they are made from a variety of materials-wood, steel, fiberglass and plastic.

Careful planning will help you determine the components appropriate for your fence.

Materials, tools, and construction techniques are described.

Braces And Posts The first step in constructing a fence is to plan and place braces and corners. Braces determine the structural soundness and longevity of any fence line. Corners are braces that are located where there is a change in fence direction. If any brace or post fails, there is a loss of wire tension and fence effectiveness. Design and spacing are determined from such factors as the number of strands of wire used (3 to 15), the type of wire (barbed, woven, high tensile strength), soil type (sand, loam, clay), terrain (level, hilly), animals to be restrained, etc.

Braces may be constructed with either wood or steel posts and in a variety of designs. The following table summarizes the most common designs. Shaded posts in the drawings are the tie-off posts.

Componen~ Corner, line, and gate or fence-end braces (strainers) are an important part of any fence. With the use of high tensile, smooth wire, these strainers are of even greater importance because of the necessity of maintaining the complete fence at the recommended tension. In recent years, the horizontal fence strainer has been accepted as the standard and strongest design. Because suspension fences are subjected to greater tension, double brace assemblies should be constructed every ¼-mile (1,320 feet). In sandy, loose soils, braces may have to be placed every 1,000 feet.

Fence braces fail because of: (1) structural failure;

(2) soil movement or failure; (3) corner or end post pullout. Structural failure of an end brace is usually due to improper design, poorly selected materials, or over-stressed members. By carefully designing fence braces and properly proportioning and sizing the members, structural failures can be all but eliminated. Fence braces also fail when the soil is too weak to support the load, which allows the fence brace to move through the soil.

Soil failures can usually be eliminated by using larger posts or by applying plates. Corner post pullout, when braces lift out of the ground, can be eliminated by using longer fence braces and placing cleats on the post.

j 'i ~i

-;I Ji

.'i i ii

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Common Brace Designs

Braces

(Shaded Posts are the Tie-Off Posts)

Horizontal structurally strong.

Construction procedures well known.

Diagonal Eight percent more re-sistant to overturn than standard horizontal brace;

structurally equivalent to horizontal brace; twenty-five percent less expensive than horizontal brace.

Straddle Jack Stable; transfer fence angle to a single post;

used where it is difficult to dig or drive posts.

Square Rock Crib Used where it is difficult to dig or drive in posts;

vecy stable; used as comer, end, gate, or in-line braces.

Rock Jack Used where it is difficult to dig or drive in posts;

vecy stable; used on comer, end, gate, or in-line.

Wire Fence Cribs Used where it is difficult to dig or drive posts;

vecy stable; used at comer, end, gate or in-line.

WIRE FENCE CRIBS

I I I I

\ I V

I I \1

I I \ I

HORIZONTAL BRACES DIAGONAL BRACES

Buried deadman --@

STRADDLE JACK BRACES (2 types)

Fence

Support rocks

Brace Designs Horizontal Braces

Horizontal braces are structurally sound and appropriate for most fences. They are the most common brace constructed.

Horizontal brace

Anchor post

Parts of horizontal brace.

I 1I

1 LI

( compression member)

"'-._ Brace wire (tension member)

1" lean

1· 8'(min) I r 12' f:

8' (min)

4,2" (min) Double wire bracing

(twisted)

Single panel end and gate brace.

Direction of fence pull

Brace post

Spike (typ) 5-6" dia

1r

I I I I I

I I I I 11 I I u LJ

Single panel in-line braces.

8' Brace (min)

4" Dia Spikes (typ)

5-6" Dia

8'

111 ll ,:lJ2" I I l I LI u LI

~-7'6"-•"'f-4--'• -8'-i Double panel end brace.

4" Dia

I I l I I I L-1

5-6" dia

I l

I I 42" I I , LI-L

8" Dia

I

Double panel gate brace.

4" bracing

I I

I I

I I I I lJ

Double wire bracing (twisted)

Twist stick

I I I I I I

LI

Three-post double panel brace.

8' (min)

' 42" (min)

4" bracing

Direction of stretch direction of stretch 5-6" dia

8' (min) ----H-----------=::.....--1Ft>=~:;i,!::!:::;l;:Jl::::;a:~~=--==:!:1:=1--..,,,,C.~-----,__........1-t-.----

Five-post four-panel brace.

I I If 42" (min)

Double wrap U --~--~ ( typieal~nte, pan cl) • I

10'

Four-post three-panel brace.

Guy wire guard

Note: Telephone anchors or mobile home anchors can be used for deadman.

Angle guy with deadman.

do NOT wrap around post

-\ \ \ }r \ \ \,,.:~ \ \ \ /\7 ' \ I / .,, 1 ./\ ~ ..=/ Twist hole

Deadman

Brace

8' (min)

I I I I I

I 42" (min) I I

I I I I L-1 L_I

1. 8' (min) I End guy with deadman.

8'braces

¼" galvanized rod

Brace post

Interior horizontal deadman.

4" Dia brace

Clamp

Interior diagonal deadman.

Turnbuckles Steel designs have been shown to have ample strength for end, corner, and in-line braces

Horizontal steel braces.

l i

I I I l

Braces on the top and bottom of steep slopes.

The following schematic illustrates some basic horizontal brace designs and their spacing. Level terrain, firm soil and four strands of barbed wire are the only factors considered.

66' - 660' barbed wire

33' - 330' woven wire

-------{i----------

660' -990' barbed wire

330' - 660' woven wire t;[Sl

To install a wood or steel horizontal anchor-and-brace assembly, procede as follows:

1. Mark ground line on anchor-and-brace posts.

Set depth at least 3 feet, 6 inches. The deeper the post, the stronger it will be.

2. Dig a 12-inch diameter hole for anchor post, 3 feet, 6 inches deep.

3. Place post in hole and tamp soil. Replace no more than 6 inches of soil at a time and tamp thoroughly. Install anchor post with a 1-inch lean away from the direction of fence pull. Check occasionally to see that it is properly aligned.

4. Measure from anchor post to first brace post and dig hole for brace post. Use post or pipe that you selected for horizontal brace for measuring distance. It should be at least 8 feet long. If you are using 1 ½-inch pipe or larger, or 2½-inch angle iron or larger, span length may be increased to 10 or 12 feet.

5. Place brace post in hole, but do not tamp.

6. Mark hole for dowel 8 to 12 inches from top of anchor post. If using pipe or angle-iron brace, mark post for notching with member centered 8 to 12 inches from top of post.

7. Bore hole same size as dowel, 2 inches deep.

Be sure to remove all shavings. For pipe or angle iron, make notch about 1h-inch deep.

8. Bore same size holes·to same depth in each . end of horizontal brace member.

9. Insert steel dowel in anchor post.

10. Install brace member on anchor post. Position opposite end on brace post so brace member is parallel with ground line.

11. Insert dowel in brace post. Mark hole for dowel in brace post. Bore hole in brace post same size as steel dowel, 2 inches deep.

12. Install brace member between anchor post and brace post. Replace soil around brace post and tamp.

Mark ground line with crayon g·

&5&-=~-;;;;;~~ ~~~-=- (---~ J l.Atleast~

Check post alignment occasionally

Horizontal brace Brace post location

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1\JJ1N

1111 .1 r · .

g~---

Brace post placed in bole

Bore hole 2" .

deep for dowel

Bore hole of same size and depth in each end

10 Brace member

Anchor post

Position brace member parallel with ground line

\l Bore hole 2"

• , deep for dowel 111~/ 1

,:1~~ 11 11 ~I , Join brace member and brace post

Insert dowel

Replace soil and tamp

To install the brace wire:

1. Drive staple about half its length into brace post, about 4 inches above brace member on opposite side from brace.

2. Drive staple in similar manner on anchor post about 4 inches from ground line opposite side from brace.

3. Unroll enough brace wire for two complete loops around anchor and brace post. Use cord to determine length required. Do not loop wire off roll. Unroll it to avoid kinks.

4. Thread end of brace wire through one staple and then through the other. Repeat to form three wire strands. Remove rough slack from wire.

1-6

4"

5. Wrap wire around anchor post and return toward brace post. Leave enough wire length so end extends about two-thirds of way back to brace post.

6. Cut brace wire from roll, allowing enough wire to wrap around brace post and extend 6 to 12 inches past other wire end.

7. Make splice.

8. Twist brace wire until whole assembly is rigid.

Use a good strong stick, rod, or pipe approximately 18 to 24 inches long. As wire is tightened, tap with hammer where it wraps around post so it will fit smoothly and remain tight. Leave member used for twisting in place. Twisting stick should be attached in such a way that it will not unwind.

Staple

1 loop around brace post

2 complete loops

1 loop around brace post

Staple

Completed splice

Twist stick, pipe, or rod (18" to 24" long)

Splice may be made with pliers

Twist until wire is taut and assembly is rigid

Wooden brace posts can also be set by:

First digging or augering a hole smaller or the same size as the comer, or gate, or first post of the line brace (for a 5-inch post, auger a 5-inch hole) to a depth 12 inches short of the recommended depth. Then, placing the anchor post in the hole and driving it to the correct depth (not less than 42 inches). Finally, installing the anchor post with a 1-inch lean away from the direction of fence pull.

If this method cannot be followed because the hole is larger than the post, then backfill 4 to 6 inches before tamping. Install the anchor post with a 1-inch lean away from the direction of fence pull.

Measure the distance needed for the horizontal brace (compression member) and mark the spot for the brace post. Make sure the posts are aligned with the fence line before setting the brace post.

Follow the same procedure as with the comer, end, gate, or first post of a line brace (anchor post).

T 48"

-+ 48" l"lean

Direction of fence pull

Setting wooden brace posts.

S'

1" lean

Direction of fence pull

._:0-.·7 ...... 36" , ~:::- I .-.__L

.· ·: 48" . , '

• • ·, • 1111·· • o . I - . • If . : \ 1/:

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Tamped soil

There are two methods for attaching the horizontal brace (compression member):

1. Drill a 3/8-inch hole 2 inches deep into the anchor post all the way through the brace post and into both ends of the horizontal brace. Drive a 4-inch long 3/8-inch steel dowel into the anchor post and a 10-inch long 3/8-inch steel dowel into the brace post until it is flush with the inside of the post. Drive the horizontal brace into the 2 inches of steel dowel sticking out of the anchor post.

Now, while supporting the horizontal brace, drive the 10-inch steel dowel into the aligned hole of the brace pole. This will leave some of the steel dowel sticking out of the brace post to support the brace wire (tension member). Drive a 1-3/4 staple half its length into the outside of the anchor post 4 inches above the ground to hold the brace wire (tension members) down on this post. Place two wraps of No. 9 gauge wire or two wraps of No. 12½ gauge high tensile wire around these two points and tie off with ·a figure-eight knot or use three compression sleeves and crimp the two wire ends together. A wrap tie around the steel dowel will also work (see below). Be sure to remove as much slack as possible before tying off. Twist this wire to the desired tension with a stick and secure the stick so the wire will not unwind. The second brace rail for a double brace will be drilled and the steel pin used to hold the brace rail.

2. Notch out a hole on the inside of both posts by drilling holes and chiseling out with a wood chisel. Shape the ends of the horizontal brace (compression member) with an ax or saw if necessary. Set one side of the brace into the comer, end, or gate post (anchor post) and then bring the brace post up to the horizontal brace.

Tamp around the brace post (a maximum 6-incl},), then attach the brace wire (tension member) as described in method 1. It may be desirable to nail the horizontal brace to the posts.

Nails (optional) Direction of pull

1" lean

I I I I I I I I I I \ I V

3 compression sleeves or figure 8 knot

Attaching horizontal brace.

3/8" x 10" steel dowel

May be notched

6" loose soil

Compacted soil

Diagonal Braces

A diagonal fence brace or strainer is structurally equal to the horizontal fence strainer. It requires one less post and only about half the labor to install.

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Diagonal fence strainer

On a high tensile, smooth wire fence, one diagonal strainer can be used for a corner instead of two horizontal braces.

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1 diagonal strainer

2 horizontal braces

Bend the high tensile, smooth wire around the corner and tie it to the corner post. A single diagonal strainer works well for corners greater than 90°, but cattle can straddle the brace and calves can go under it. To avoid the problem, use two diagonal strainers running at the same angle as the fence. These diagonal strainers should be used on corners that are less than 90°.

To install a diagonal brace or strainer:

1. Make the brace as long as possible.

Diagonal strainer

2. Be sure that the end of the diagonal brace that contacts the ground is free to move forward and that it is not blocked by a stake or post. A diagonal brace that bears against a stake or post reduces the ability of the strainer to resist pullout.

3. Although the diagonal brace can bear against the corner post from the middle of the post to the top of the post, it is best to have the contact at the top.

4. When installing a diagonal strainer, the corner post should be set first; then install the diagonal brace; then the bottom holding wire brace; and then attach the wires and set the tension. With this procedure, the lower wire brace will not have to be twisted tight.

5. The diameter of the corner post should be as large as possible.

6. If one diagonal strainer will not hold the fence tension, a second diagonal strainer should be installed with each strainer taking half the tension of the fence.

LI

Fence tied off here so each strainer can take half the fence tension

Use two diagonal strainers to hold soft soil. One horizontal and one diagonal strainer can also be used. Each of the diagonal strainers takes half of the tension in the fence; therefore, the fence must be tied off at each diagonal strainer. When using the diagonal strainer as a line brace, do not over tension the brace wires or the vertical post can be jacked out of the ground. However, high tensile, smooth wire eliminates the need for line braces.

I ,- I I I I u

Fence tied off at each diagonal strainer

I I 2 diagonal strainer

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1 horizontal and 1 diagonal strainer

The Kiwi Diagonal Brace requires less material and less construction time than a standard double brace while providing equal strength. Kiwi has developed construction techniques and high quality materials for this brace that are particularly well suited for high tensile fencing.

Components for building the Kiwi Brace are:

1. one 24-inch piece max-ten 200 high tensile wire

2. one 6-inch x 8 foot pressure treated end ( or comer) post

3. one 4-inch x 10-foot pressure treated diagonal post

4. one Kiwi galvanized brace rod ½-inch x 10 feet x 6 inches

5. four 2-inch hot dipped galvanized staples

6. one Kiwi reinforced concrete brace block 4 inches x 12 inches x 20 inches

7. one 3/8-inch x 10-inch galvanized brace pin

:~ To construct the Kiwi brace: ,.

1. Drive 6-inch x 8-foot post, small end first, at least 42 inches into soil; or, set by hand, bit end first. Tamp soil tightly around post in 6-inch layers or use alternating 6-inch layers of dry concrete mix and soil. Soil moisture will set the concrete.

2. Place precast brace block approximately 8 feet, 6 inches from end post.

Kiwi diagonal with a float foot.

~-=---1 I I I I I I I I

42" (min)

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t Driven post

Hand set post with bell bottom r· I I I I I I

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6" dry concrete

End post

Precast brace block

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3. Hold 5-inch x 10-foot diagonal post in place and mark proper angles for cutting; then cut the appropriate amount from the diagonal post.

4. Holding the cut 5-inch diagonal post between two top wire spacings, drill a 3/8-inch hole at a shallow angle (approximately 15°) through the diagonal post, and into the 6-inch end post; then drive the 10-inch brace pin into the hole.

5. Drill a 5/8-inch hole through the 6-inch end post about 4 inches up from ground level. Also drill through the 4-inch diagonal post in the brace block end. These holes should be drilled parallel to the ground and facing each other in line with the fence.

6. Install brace rod (remove the nut and flat washer), leaving the curved washer in place. Start the rod into the previously drilled hole; drive it toward the block and insert into the bottom hole drilled into the diagonal post. Replace the washer and the nut and tighten the brace rod until the nut is snug against the diagonal post (approximately 40 feet/pounds of torque).

7. Install the safety wire by stapling one end of the wire to the end post just below and to the side of the diagonal post; then staple again. Take the wire under, over, and underneath the diagonal post. Pull the wire tight and double staple the wire to the opposite outer edge of the end post.

Cut

~l----------::l--1,,,,_ ______ ......,A:::L.--

Jo

Brace pin

Drill 5/8" hole

Safety wire d11

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6"

Drill 3/8" hole

Drill 5/8" hole _j !

4"

Staples

Detail

For comer angles 90° or more, use single diagonal brace.

Single diagonal brace ---

More than 90°

For comer angles less than 90°, use two diagonal braces.

Less than 90°

2 diagonal braces

For 12° slope or less, set end post vertically.

Set post vertically _______ ... -

__ -:::-,- 1,'1,0 g\o\le :, \J\lto t I ,, t I l., For more than 12° slope, set end post at right angle to terrain.

4 twisted strands of No. 12 smooth wire

S~eel post at ;45° angle with plate driven at right angles to fence line

Plate

Steel stretch panel.

Smooth No. 9 wire

Steel post at 45° angle with plate driven at right angle to fence line

Plate at right angle to fence line

Steel comer, angle, or gate panel.

Steel diagonal-brace ends and corners have been used satisfactorily by setting the end or comer post in concrete and placing the diagonal braces in concrete. However, mixing the concrete and waiting for the concrete to cure add time and effort to the operation.

Steel corner post

Steel diagonal•brace ends l: i :_ Concrete n ~ ~ -~ .. •;

A steel dirt-set diagonal-brace end and corner has been found to withstand normal fence tension.

It is simple, relatively easy to install, about half the cost of the steel horizontal-brace assembly, and it can be installed with a post driver.

Pl[()

Anchor plates expanded

To install commercial fence brace panels, follow these procedures:

1. Drive post No. 1. Post should be 7 feet long at least.

2. Clamp large brace panel to the post.

3. Drive Post No. 2. As the post is driven, angle it slightly for post hole driver to clear the brace panel. Be sure to keep the post tight against the brace panel.

4. After driving Post No. 2., hold it tightly against the top of large brace panel. At the same time, secure both large and small brace panel at the top of the post with a clamp. Next, secure box brace panels at the bottom of the post. If rocky soil prevents post from fitting tightly against brace panel, use spacers (available at your dealer) between post and brace panel to insure a tight fit.

5. Drive Post No. 3 and secure small brace panel to it.

6. On slopes or grades, adjust the brace up or down to be sure that the leg is touching the ground.

Post No. 1

Brace plate

Large brace panel

Post No. 2 Post No. 3

II

II

Small brace panel

Adjust small brace panel on slopes or grades

Leg touches ground

This design may lead to ---------t....'!1- high maintenance costs

I Turnbuckle : 1 Turnbuckle

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Buried anchor Screw in type anchor

Low-cost tension member line brace to replace standard line brace.

Direction of pull

This design may lead to -,,....---------~--- high maintenance costs

~-A Rebar gives 1 1 ~) longer life than L..1 if tie wires are buried

Railroad __,,/,,"!J' tie plate

Low-cost tension member line strainer using earth anchors for replacement of a standard line strainer.

,, I

Direction of pull

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1:101 1,(-u J I/ 1, Swinging foot t ,J/ ~

1': l Swinging foot I ( wire tied tightly) I /ti

(wire tied tightly) 4 I Bedlog fr I

~C.I I ..,_J~

No. Swire (must pull at

-- center of foot)

Rot-proof material 10 to 14 inches long

1-Place foot in by hand

2-Drive back of foot with hammer

3-Staple with one staple

4-Continue driving foot until it is flat on the bottom of the hole

5-Finish stapling (3 staples)

/I I ,M I cu

4"-6"

The New Zealand brace primarily used for electric fences.

Stay block

Staple pattern

Straddle Jack Braces

Straddle jack braces are used in terrain where it is difficult to dig or drive posts. Straddle jack braces are very stable.

Corner brace foot straddle jack fence.

End brace or gate brace for straddle jack fence.

TWO METHODS OF ANCHORING FENCE BUCK:

T 3'

_j__

{ / '1. No. 9 wire 1 1

Crosstie lrod~

I I I

I I About75lb LJ

~ stone anchor 9 , ----•-Ii-•--- G' __ _, \ u

Where hole cannot be dug, cover large anchor stone with other stones and twist wire

Anchor buck every 10th rod

Hole is directly below crotch on fence line

Method of anchoring 3 posts with 1 anchor stone

This design may lead to high maintenance. Buried wires are susceptible to rust

Square Rock Cribs

Square Rock Cribs may be used for fence comers, fence ends, or at gates where rock jack-post and figure-four fences are constructed. Or, they may be used to hold fence lines in place. They are stable and are constructed where it is difficult to dig or drive posts.

Rocks

I Nails

4'6"

TOP VIEW

Platform i---Aitemate each way

Nails

Use of square rock crib for crossmg dry draws

The comer gate jack is an alternative to a rock crib brace. At gates and fence ends, the leg per pendicular to the fence should be shortened to about 5 feet.

8 'O" comer jack 4 '6" gate jack for leg perpendicular to fence line

Rocks (about 500 lbs on platform) \---s•o"

/ I _____--i .... -✓

Brace rocks

CORNER VIEW

4'6"

TOP VIEW

Flooring (unnailed)

Joist

Diagonal braces

Ground piece

~ Brace rock

Flooring (unnailed)

--', I

Ground iece

Rocks Brace rock _.----· '- /

SIDE VIEW

I

I

Rock Jacks

Rock Jacks are construct.ed where it is difficult to dig or drive posts. They are stable and can be construct.ed at comers, fence ends, gat.es, or in-line.

They are constructed as follows:

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----- 16' to 18'----•-il

10"

~ 40" !--- /Double "T" pos~ I I Double "T" posts

/4 .~ J4...------....... "--,S: ~: l.

Notes: Posts are 51/2" steel "T".

Diagonal braces: 2 strands 121h gauge barbed wire.

All wires to be double wrapped around posts ·

I-Construct crib and set double "T" post.

2-Allow 12" to 18" overlap No. 1348 nonclimbable wire 3' high (tie crib wire to 4 posts at top, center, and bottom.

3-Stretch and tighten brace wires between crib and double "T" post (twist top 2 brace wires together).

4-Fill crib with rocks less than 20" dia., max. void 6" largest measurement.

5-Stretch line wires to double steel posts.

• 10"

12"

If M d !...! u LJ

~16'to18'~

'""•---- 16' to 18' ----1•...i•l

Wire Fence Cribs

Wire Fence Cribs are used where it is difficult to dig or drive posts. Wire fence cribs are stable.

They are constructed at comers, fence ends, gates, or in-line.

Wire cross tie.

4'0"

Wire cross ties

Splice ends together to form crib and staple together Level bed for crib

Rock crib corner post

Treated timber placed 4' woven wire, 2"x4" in center of crib 12¼ guage, secured around outside 5¼' steel posts ( 4 posts)

II

Gate

Rock crib gate post

Use this wire only when gate is installed next to rock crib.

The wire will be attached to the same post and within 2 inches of the gate lever

4' woven wire, 2"x4", 12¼ gauge, 12'8" ~ong formed to make cnb

Fence anchor stay set on rock

I j....-- 5¼' steel posts (4) ,, ,,17 'i V

Li 2 strands 12¼ gauge barbed wire twisted tight

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Double steel posts used to stretch from

Scrap iron anchor

Rock crib.

f 39" to 46"

No rock spaces larger than 6" in crib.

The woven wire ends will have 12" overlap and be wired to itself, using the ends of each longitudinal wire to make a splice with at least 4 turns. The wire shall be attached to each post in the crib at the top and bottom wires and at a minimum of 2 intermediate horizontal wires.

Corners And Gate Posts

Comer and Gate Post Braces are perhaps the most important component of high tensile wire fences.

These braces must be sturdy and durable. Pro cedures for construction of various fence designs follow:

Direction of pull

8 'x4" second brace post

8'x5" first Twist stick brace post

Gate installed after S'x6" 8'x6" final wire tensioning gate post end post

Guide wire I I

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Twist stick

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2 complete wraps I / max-ten 200 wire lJ

--- Direction of pull m :, l II p I : Guide wire I I All posts I I I II driven 4' 1 I 1J 11…