Attachment 8 - Wildlife Friendly Fence Guide.pdf

Second Edition Revised and Updated

How to Build Fence with Wildlife in Mind

Acknowledgements Since the original publication of

A Landowner’s Guide to Wildlife Friendly Fences in 2008, the idea of “building fence with wildlife in mind” has taken off like wildfire across the West. Other states have built on that original publication and produced their own fence manuals, and this author wrote a companion volume for Wyoming, A Landowner’s Guide to Fences and Wildlife, published by The Wyoming Land Trust.

For this second edition, the material has been revised and updated, benefitting from the creative ideas and practical experience of landowners and resource professionals who have adopted a wildlife friendly approach to their operations. Joe Weigand, Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks private land wildlife specialist, provided department funding and personal guidance for the project, as well as his extensive expertise from testing various fence solutions with landowners.

A special thanks to everyone who contributed their insights, research, photographs and manuscript reviews.

Chris and Leo Barthelmess, Ralph Burchenal, John Kountz, Jeff Laszlo, Marina Smith, Wayne Ternes, Juanita Vero, the Anaconda Gun Club and the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation partnered with Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks to test fence designs in various livestock and wildlife situations and offered invaluable insights and sugges-tions. FWP biologist Jay Kolbe provided fence specifications, photos and other invaluable contributions to the project.

Steve Primm and Seth Wilson of People and Carnivores, and FWP bear biolo-gists Kim Annis, Tim Manley, and Mike Madel, contributed their expertise on fencing to exclude predators. Shawn Cleveland and Andrew Jakes shared their experiences and photos from the Trans-boundary Pronghorn Project. Montana Department of Transportation provided

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Cover Photo: Jeffrey P. Strickler; inset photo: donaldmjones.com

Acknowledgements

Author Christine Paige Ravenworks Ecology Jackson, WY chrispaige@gmail.com

Editor/Publisher Joe Weigand Private Land Wildlife Specialist Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks Helena, MT joweigand@mt.gov

Graphic Design Nancy Seiler Missoula, MT nancy@nancyseiler.com

Illustrations E.R. Jenne Illustration Missoula, MT edjenne@earthlink.net

Citation Paige, C. 2012. A Landowner’s Guide to Wildlife Friendly Fences.

Second Edition. Private Land Technical Assistance Program, Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks, Helena, MT. 56 pp.

photos, specifications, and experiences with highway right-of-way fence.

Bryce Andrews conducted inter-views and wrote many of the profiles detailing landowner and ranch manager experiences. Many other landowners, biologists, and resource professionals in Montana and throughout the U.S. also contributed their expertise, references, and photographs, considerably adding to the breadth of innovative ideas.

My deep appreciation to Ed Jenne for his wonderful illustrations and to Nancy Seiler for her beautifully creative talent in layout and design. Any errors in this manual are mine alone.

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Wildlife and Fences

Problem Fences

Wildlife Friendly Fences

Friendly Designs

Remedies for Existing Fences

Residential Fences

Fence Alternatives

If You Must Exclude

Deterring Large Predators

Getting Help

Sources

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Table of Contents

Why build wildlife friendly fences?

Fences are essential for controlling livestock and trespass, and countless miles of fence crisscross the West like strands of a spider’s web. Fences define and separate ranches and farms, outline property boundaries, enclose pastures and rangelands, and prevent livestock from straying onto highways.

Yet those miles of fence can also create hazards and barriers for wildlife, from big game animals to birds. Fences can block or hinder daily wildlife movements, seasonal migrations, and access to forage and water. Wildlife may avoid areas with too many fences to negotiate. For example, pronghorn choose seasonal ranges with lower fence densities (Sheldon 2005). When animals collide with or become entangled in fences they can be injured or killed, and wildlife damage to fences can be costly and frustrating for landowners.

Fence Law in Montana Fence In or Fence Out?

Most of Montana is classified as open range, which means that by law landowners are responsible for “fencing out” neighboring livestock, and a livestock owner is not liable for trespass or damage if a property is not adequately fenced. This custom has deep roots in Montana’s history and ranching traditions.

However Montana’s open range law applies only to cattle. Bison, sheep, and other livestock must be fenced in (Mont. Code Ann. § 81-4-201).

If the area you live is classified as “closed range,” however, the livestock owner is responsible for “fencing in” all livestock. Incorporated cities and towns are classified as closed range. Counties may also create “herd districts” in unincorporated rural areas that are classified as closed range. If you’re unsure if your area is open or closed range, contact the Montana Department of Livestock (MDOL; www.liv.mt.gov.)

In practice, many livestock operators fence their property and pastures to better manage their livestock and range resources. Where their pastures adjoin federal lands, livestock owners are also responsible for preventing their livestock from illegally trespassing on those lands.

Along railroads, the railroad company must build and maintain fences to keep livestock from wandering onto the tracks. Similarly, the Montana Department of Transportation (MDT) can construct fences along highways to prevent livestock from wandering into the right-of-way.

Legal Fence Montana Code defines a legal fence as one of several possible designs

(Mont. Code Ann. § 81-4-101). Generally, a legal fence is one constructed well enough to keep out or contain livestock. While the code defines heights for a legal fence, it also stipulates that “all other fences made of barbed wire, which shall be as strong and as well calculated to protect enclosures” as the standards specified are also legal. All “rivers, hedges, mountain ridges and bluffs, or other barriers over or through which it is impossible for stock to pass” are also included as legal fence.

Posting Against Trespass In Montana, notice against trespass on private land must be placed on a post, structure, or natural object, either by written notice or with at least 50 square inches of fluorescent orange paint. For metal fence posts, the entire post must be painted. Notice must be placed at each outer gate and normal point of access to the property, including both sides of a water body wherever it intersects an outer boundary line (Mont. Code Ann. § 45-6-201).

Other Regulations Check your local covenants and county and city offices for specific fence regulations. If your property adjoins a state highway, contact MDT regarding options for modifying highway right-of-way fences for wildlife (www.mdt.mt.gov).

Many wildlife friendly fence designs are easy and low-cost, or save money by reducing future fence repair.

Not all fences create problems for wild animals. By tailoring fence design and placement, you can reduce wildlife injuries and decrease damage to your fence. Many of these methods are low-cost or can save money in the long-run by reducing the need for future fence repair.

This guide will help you construct and modify fences and crossings that are friendlier to wildlife while still meeting fencing needs. It will also help you with sources for technical assistance and possible cost-share opportunities.

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Wildlife and Fences

Problem Fences Deer, elk, moose, bighorn sheep, and pronghorn are all capable of jumping fences, but many common fence designs and situations can snare and injure these and other wildlife.

Wire strands can readily entangle legs, especially if wires are loose or spaced too closely together. Deer, elk, and other wildlife often bear scars from wire barbs. A torn ligament, strained leg, or infection can reduce an animal’s chance of survival, and if animals can’t pull free at all, they die slowly of trauma and dehydration.

Animals can be blocked by fences that are too high, impermeable, buried in deep snow, or on steep slopes. Young, pregnant, or winter-stressed animals may have a particularly difficult time clearing fences.

Some fences, especially woven wire fence, can be a complete barrier to fawns and calves even if adults can still jump over. Separated from their mothers and stranded from the herd, the youngsters often curl up and die of exposure and dehydration. Woven wire can snare and strangle medium-sized animals and livestock if they push their heads through the wire mesh, and may block animals such as bears and bobcats that are too large to slip through.

Winter-stressed, pregnant and young animals may especially have trouble clearing fences. An injury or infection from tangling with fences can reduce an animal’s chance of survival. If animals can’t pull free at all, they die of trauma and dehydration.

If woven wire is topped with one or more strands of barbed wire, the fence becomes a complete barrier, especially for fawns, calves, pronghorn and other animals that are incapable or unwilling to jump over such a fence.

Animals trying to leap a woven wire fence topped by barbed wire are even more likely to tangle a leg between the top barbed wire and the stiff woven wire.

In urban areas, fences topped with barbs or pointed spikes, such as decorative iron fences, can trap or impale leaping deer and other animals.

Large, low-flying birds, too, may collide with fences and break wings, impale themselves on barbs, or tangle in wires. Ducks, geese, cranes, swans, grouse, hawks, and owls are especially vulnerable. Waterfowl fly into fences that run near or across waterways, and hawks and owls may careen into fences when swooping in on prey.

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Above: After crossing a highway, a black bear desperately searches for a way through a woven wire fence, finally climbing a power pole to leap over.

Above: This peregrine falcon died when it collided with a fence while diving on killdeer. Many birds are vulnerable to fence collisions.

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What kinds of fence cause problems for wildlife?

Fences that:

together;

• can impale or snag a leaping animal;

• are difficult for running animals or birds to see;

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Antlered animals can become fatally tangled in poly rope fence and loose barbed wire.

Maintaining fence tension and using high-tensile wire for electric fences can help prevent such losses.

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Above: This badly tangled pronghorn was fortunately freed by the photographer, who was able to clip the wires.

Elk, deer, and other ungulates often die if their legs tangle in wire fences. Woven wire topped with barbed wire was found to be the most lethal type of fence, especially for young wild ungulates.

The Bottom Line: Hard Numbers Recently, researchers at Utah State

University completed a study of wildlife mortality along more than 600 miles of fences in the rangelands of northeast-ern Utah and northwestern Colorado (Harrington 2005, Harrington and Conover 2006). By repeatedly driving and walking fencelines over two seasons, they tallied the number of mule deer, pronghorn, and elk carcasses they found caught in fences and lying next to fences. They also studied which fence types caused the most problems.

Here are their key findings:

Snared and Entangled

• On average, one ungulate per year was found tangled for every 2.5 miles of fence.

• Most animals (69% of juveniles and 77% of adults) died by getting caught in the top two wires while trying to jump a fence.

• �Juveniles are 8 times more likely to die in fences than adults.

• Mortalities peaked during August, when fawns were weaned.

• Woven wire fence topped with a single strand of barbed wire was the most lethal fence type, as it easily snared and tangled legs between the barbed wire and rigid woven wire.

• 70% of all mortalities were on fences higher than 40".

Blocked and Stranded

• Where ungulates were found dead next to but not in fences, on average one ungulate per year died for every

1.2 miles of fence.

• 90% of these carcasses found near fences were fawns lying in a curled position – probably separated from their mothers when they could not cross.

• Most of these indirect mortalities were found next to woven wire fences.

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TIP:

If you attempt to rescue a tangled and struggling animal, and you can safely do so, cover its head with a cloth or coat to help calm it.

The best situation for wildlife is open habitat with no fences at all. Wherever possible, remove obsolete fences that are no longer needed.

Where you need to fence, less fence is better. Established fences can be modified to allow easier passage, and new fence can be designed with wildlife in mind.

To get started, consider your needs and create a plan. You can tailor any of the designs in this guide to your specific needs.

When you design your fence, consider:

streams, and wetlands;

movements in the area;

• presence of water, food, and cover for wildlife;

• presence of young animals.

First consider these questions:

1. What is the purpose of the fence?

Do you need to mark a boundary?

Deter trespass? Enclose or exclude livestock? If your fence is for livestock, what kind, in what seasons, and for how long?

Your purpose should determine your fence design and placement.

2. What is the topography?

Are you fencing on hills, in rocky country where posts cannot be driven, or near or across streams or wetlands?

Design your fence to avoid creating traps for wildlife.

3. Which wildlife species are in your area?

Build fence or crossings that both young and adult animals can negotiate.

4. What are the daily or seasonal wildlife movements in the area?

Do animals calve or nest nearby?

Does wildlife migrate through to winter or breeding areas?

Allow movement and access through natural corridors and habitats.

haystack fence children’s play area moveable/ seasonal power fence lay-down fence lay-down fence elk migration wildlife access to water and travel corridor

Getting Started

Most fences can be designed or modified to allow easier and safer passage for wildlife.

Wildlife Friendly Fences

Fence and Crossing Placement Placement of fences is just as important as the type of fence used.

Fences need not restrict wildlife movement everywhere on your property.

Wherever possible, design your fence to provide wildlife free travel to important habitats and corridors, as well as access to water. Wetlands and riparian habitats are especially important for all wildlife.

Watch for daily and seasonal wildlife movement patterns and look for trails.

Use impenetrable, special-purpose fence only in specific areas where it is critical, such as calving or lambing pastures, haystacks, gardens, orchards, children's play areas, or kennels.

Design property boundary fence so wildlife can easily cross, or with gaps or lay-down sections for wildlife passage whenever and wherever livestock are not present.

Work with your land’s topography.

Swales, gullies, ridges, and stream corridors can funnel wildlife through an area. Keep these open to allow wildlife passage and avoid topography traps.

A fence of any height is more difficult to cross when placed across a steep slope or next to a deep ditch.

As ground slope increases, the height

0% slope

42"

30% slope

62"

50% slope

75"

Slope increases barrier

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Tailor your fences to specific needs and allow wildlife access to water, important habitats, and travel corridors.

Good Fence Placement Tips

• Look for wildlife trails and watch for seasonal patterns.

• Provide wildlife access to riparian habitats, water holes, and other high quality habitats.

• Provide passage along swales, gullies, ridges. and stream corridors.

• Use the appropriate fence design for each activity.

• On slopes and in natural travel corridors, plan for wildlife crossings.

C hr ist in e P aig e an animal must jump to clear the fence increases considerably. For instance, a 42" fence may be passable on level ground, but a slope of only 10% increases the effective fence height to 48.6"; a slope of 30% increases effective height to 62"; and on a 50% slope animals encounter an obstacle 75" high. Fences on steep slopes become nearly impossible for animals to jump over without injury.

Wildlife Friendly Fences smooth barbed barbed smooth

18" preferred (16" minimum)

40" preferred (42" maximum)

Increase visibility with a PVC cover, high-visibility wire, flagging, or a top rail. 12"

Ideal Wildlife Friendly Fence

The friendliest fences are very visible and allow wild animals to easily jump over or slip under the wires or rails.

An Ideal Fence A fence that is friendly to wildlife should:

• Allow animals to jump over and crawl under easily without injury;

• Be highly visible for both ungulates and birds.

You can combine or tailor many of the ideas presented in this guide to your specific situation.

The top wire or rail should be low enough for adult animals to jump over, preferably 40" or less, and no more than 42" high. The distance between the top two wires should be no less than 12" apart. Deer and elk easily tangle their back legs if the top wires are closer together.

The bottom wire or rail should be high enough for adult pronghorn and young wild ungulates to crawl under. The bottom wire should be a minimum of 16" from the ground and preferably at least 18." Take advantage of small dips, swales, and gullies to provide a slightly larger gap below the fence and allow animals to pass under easily. Many cattle ranchers have found that although a small calf may slip under the higher bottom wire, it can also easily slip back again to its mom and not be stranded on the wrong side of the fence.

The Wildlife Friendly Fence: A Livestock/Wildlife Compromise These standards will control cattle in most situations and allow for easier wildlife passage.

Fences should have top wires low enough for adult animals to jump, bottom wires high enough for wildlife to crawl under, and minimize the chance of tangling. We recommend:

• A top wire or rail preferably no more than 40" and a maximum of 42" above the ground;

regularly maintain wire stays that are easily bent;

Increasing visibility using a top rail, high-visibility poly-wire, flagging, or oth-er markers can help ungulates and birds better avoid or navigate fences. Using smooth wire – such as barbless twisted wire – for the top and bottom strands will prevent snagging and injuries.

Use electric tape or braid only for temporary applications. It should be removed or lowered to the ground when livestock are not present.

In some situations, fence stays can help maintain distance between strands, prevent sagging, and reduce the chance of entanglement. However, wire stays are easily bent over, collapsing the fence and creating a three-dimensional hazard, and need to be regularly maintained. An alternative is a stiff plastic or composite stay or fiberglass post that flexes but maintains its shape.

In wildlife migration areas, drop-down fence, lay-down fence, or other crossings can be incorporated into fence sections for seasonal wildlife passage. Good husbandry practices go hand-in-hand with wildlife friendlier fences. Livestock that have good forage and the security and companionship they want are much less likely to test or challenge fences.

Although calves may slip under a higher bottom wire, they can also slip back again to mom and not be stranded.

Friendly Designs

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Visibility Running animals and low-flying birds may not see a wire fence clearly against the landscape. Making a fence highly visible prevents collisions, and can help animals judge the height of a fence for jumping.

One solution is a top rail. A rounded rail is preferable as it sheds snow more easily – heavy snow buildup can sometimes deter elk and deer from crossing. For wire fences, an inexpensive modification is to slip sections of small-diameter PVC pipe over the top strand.

Smooth wire fences, especially high-tensile wire, may be essentially invisible to animals. Depending on the type of fence, these can be made more visible by adding PVC pipe, flagging, fence markers, or highly-visible polywire or polytape on the top strand. Twisted barbless cable is more visible than a single wire strand, and high-visibility wire is available in many

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High visibility helps wildlife negotiate fences. It is especially important in grasslands and near creeks and wetlands to protect low-flying birds, such as grouse, owls, and swans. PVC pipe, flagging, or black and white wire or tape all help wildlife see fences.

C hr ist in e P aig e forms – tape, braid and polymer-coated wire – many of which can be electrified if needed. White wire is the most visible in summer, but black and white wire or tape makes the fence visibly obvious against both summer vegetation and snow.

Markers for Wire Fence For barbed or woven wire fence:

• Cut several 12′ strips of “undersill” or trim strips of white vinyl siding, available at home hardware centers.

• Cut strips to 3" pieces. Use tin snips for small projects or, with proper ventilation, use a 10" miter saw with a 200-tooth blade to cut up to 16 pieces at a time for larger projects.

increases detection in low light. Or use both black and white markers for visibility against snow and vegetation.

• Snap pieces onto fence wires – they are held in place between barbs.

Wyoming Game and Fish has found that, for each 16' section of fence, a minimum of two pieces with reflective tape on the top wire is effective. Or, alternate four pieces of black and white markers on the top wire. Marking a lower or bottom wire will increase visibility for pronghorn and other wildlife.

For smooth wire fence:

• To keep the vinyl siding markers from sliding, crimp a ferrule, twist a small spring, or tighten a UV-resistant zip-tie (tie-wrap) onto the wire on each side of the marker. Although this adds time to installation, it keeps the markers in place. Crimping the marker itself causes the marker to wear and break.

• An alternative is to make flags from reflective tape that can adhere to the wire.

(Note, however, that reflective tape will conduct power on a hot wire.)

• Some commercially made markers available online or in ranch supply outlets may work better on smooth wire.

• Place a minimum of two flags per 16' section of fence on the top wire; or up to four on the top wire and three on the middle or bottom wire.

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Fence Flags for Grouse and Other Birds

Fence flags or markers dramatically increase visibility of wire fences for wildlife, especially birds, and help animals avoid and negotiate fences.

Research on sage-grouse in Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana has shown that fence markers can reduce fence collisions by 70% to more than 80%.

Research on sage-grouse and other prairie grouse has shown that fence collisions are common and widespread, especially near breeding areas.

Grouse fly fast and low into their mating areas (called “leks”) just before dawn and, in the dim light, are vulnerable to colliding with nearby fences.

However marking fence for visibility can dramatically reduce collisions by 70% to 83% (Christiansen 2009; Stevens et al. 2012b).

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M ed ia vinyl markers smooth or barbed

18"

Durable Markers on Wire Fence

Durable and lightweight fence markers can be cut from strips of vinyl siding trim. The trim strip has a lip that easily snaps onto fence wires.

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Not every mile of fence needs to be marked for grouse. Marking is most important where there are high densities of birds: within 1.2 miles of a lek and in wintering areas. Also, sage-grouse are most vulnerable to collisions in open, flat, or rolling country, and in areas with many fences (>1.5 miles of fence per square mile; Stevens et al. 2012a, 2012b).

A relatively inexpensive and durable marking technique uses 3" flags cut from vinyl “undersill” or trim siding strips.

The undersill siding has a lip that can be snapped onto barbed wire fence, with the barbs keeping the markers from sliding.

As an alternative, commercially produced fence markers can be purchased through a number of retail and mail order outlets.

For example, the Firefly Diverter (www.fireflytechproducts.com) has UV-visible reflective tape. Fly Safe (www.flysafellc.com) works on barbed wire. The See-A-Fence marker (www.

knifesedgellc.com/seeafence.html) and Fence-flag (www.fenceflag.com) work on smooth wire fence.

While marking the top wire only is effective for grouse, adding markers to lower wires may also help pronghorn and other wildlife that slip under fences.

Sites with Low or Seasonal Livestock Use

Not all situations require a 5-strand barbed wire or woven wire fence. Many situations with low or seasonal livestock use can be fenced with a 3-strand smooth wire fence, various types of post and rail fences, or moveable electric fence.

Seasonal pastures, cross fences, and horse pastures lend themselves to designs that are much more permeable for wildlife.

3-Strand Smooth Wire Fence Use 3 strands of smooth (barbless) wire. To increase visibility, use coated wire or barbless twisted cable – the latter can also be more durable than single strand smooth wire. (Note that high-tensile wire should only be used for electrified applications. High-tensile can also be difficult for animals to see, and horses can sometimes be cut by high-tensile wire.)

In the center of bighorn sheep winter range, this smooth wire fence replaced old 4- and 5-strand barbed wire fence. The fence is 3-strand smooth wire with a 39" top wire and 16" bottom wire. Bighorn sheep now readily hop over and duck under the fences.

3-Strand Smooth Wire Fence

16.5′ all smooth wires

18"

28-30"

40" preferred (42" maximum) wood or steel posts

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3-Strand Smooth Wire Fence

ground; maintain 12" spacing with the top wire.

• �Bottom wire 18" above the ground.

intervals.

• �To increase visibility, use coated wire or double twisted smooth wire.

F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T Wildlife Friendly Klick Ranch

“When I drove in here yesterday, I parted mountain sheep like Moses did the Red Sea.” Dick Klick is talking about the road to his place at Castle Reef, 23 miles west of Augusta, Montana. Dick and his wife, Nancy, winter their horse herd here, and have made some adjustments to deal with the bighorn sheep, deer and elk that share their property.

On their winter place, the Klicks build mostly four-wire fence. The top two wires are barbed, while the bottom two are smooth. The top wire is hung 54" from the ground, and the wires are spaced 10" apart (24"–34"–44"–54" spacing). The fence hangs from six foot steel posts spaced on 17-foot centers.

Although the top wires are very high, the high clearance under the bottom wire allows wildlife to easily slip under and avoid accidental entanglement. When Dick notices an area that is used consistently by wildlife, he often pulls staples on sections of his bottom wire, raising it up to the level of second wire to make crossing even easier. Even modified this way, the fences effectively contain his horses.

In the summer, the Klicks graze their horses at the head of the Gibson Reservoir, on a 3,000-acre Forest Service allotment bordering the Bob Marshall Wilderness.

Their place is remote, accessible by jet boat or horse depending on the season.

On the doorstep of the Bob Marshall, the Klick’s allotment is used extensively by wildlife. In summer and early fall, the horses share the range with a large number of elk. Wherever possible, the Klicks have relied on natural barriers such as cliffs, steep slopes, and box canyons to contain their horses. To keep wildlife from damaging the three miles of fence they’ve built on the allotment, Dick and Nancy have experimented extensively with design, location, and wire spacing.

On their summer place, the layout they favor is two barbed wires, the top wire at 48", the bottom wire 8" below that at 40", leaving ample clearance below. “It’s 99% good for holding horses,” says Dick. “The bull elk jump it, and everything else goes under easily, without even causing a ripple.”

Dick stresses the importance of fence visibility in reducing wildlife conflicts.

He finds that fencing through dense trees often results in wildlife damage.

Because of this, he generally leaves a buffer zone between his fence and the tree line in meadows. When forced to go through trees, and if his Forest Service lease allows it, Dick clears a pathway on either side of the fence to increase its visibility to wildlife.

Replacing old fence with new, more wildlife friendly designs takes thought and effort, but Dick seems happy with the balance he’s struck. The new fences are easier to maintain, and stand up better to wildlife crossings and snow drifts.

“I’m getting older,” Dick says. “I don’t like to see a quarter-mile of fence strewn across the place by wildlife. We must work with animals up here.”

– Bryce Andrews

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Christine Paige

Seasonal Electric Wire Fence A flexible electric fence that allows passage for elk and other ungulates can still be effective for livestock, particularly horses trained to electric fence. It can be laid down seasonally to allow free wildlife passage. This fence is useful for keeping livestock out of sensitive habitats or for short-duration grazing where permanent fence isn’t desired.

To work properly, this fence needs to flex as elk and other animals pass over it. Install as few rigid post supports as possible, and use the minimum recommended wire tension. Placing the energizer toward the middle of the fence will afford the greatest electrical efficiency.

This 2-strand seasonal power fence can be used where livestock are trained to electric fence.

Wooden posts brace the ends. The fiberglass posts can be laid down when the fence is not in use.

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Seasonal Electric Wire Fence

be used if ground is soft).

polymer-covered wire no higher than 42" height, electrically charged (medium-tensile 12-gauge plastic-coated wire is satisfactory).

fence is laid down.

• �Use insulators for attaching hot top wire to wooden posts; grounded wire can be stapled or clipped directly to wooden posts.

• �Use a solar electric energizer (size and placement depends on the run length of fence).

• Hard-wiring is an option when a power source is readily available.

“Zero maintenance – it’s been amazing,” says Juanita Vero of her new stretch of electric fence. Juanita, the fifth-generation owner and manager of the E Bar L guest ranch in Montana's Big Blackfoot Valley, has fixed her share of damaged fence. On the E Bar L, 80 head of horses share 4,000 acres of range with large numbers of deer and elk.

F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T Collaboration in the Blackfoot Valley

The vast majority of fences on the property are built with three- or four-barbed-wires hung from steel posts. Though these designs worked well on some parts of the ranch, they often failed when built across elk migration corridors. One particularly troublesome stretch ran for a half mile along the edge of an irrigated hay pasture.

Elk crossed the fence on their daily circuit between the Blackfoot River and a stand of timber, frequently causing damage. The Veros were ready for an innovative approach to fencing, and they sought the help of Jay Kolbe, Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks biologist, to help design the project.

Under an agreement to evaluate the design, and splitting costs and labor, FWP and the Veros built a two-wire electrified fence on 1" diameter fiberglass posts spaced

They use temporary electric fence to divide pastures into smaller units, allowing them to better control the way their herd grazes.

Because this polywire fence is a single-strand design, it is highly permeable to wildlife.

Although most fence on the property remains barbed-wire, and the cost of replacing it with electric fence is high enough to be prohibitive, Juanita is upbeat about the potential for future innovation: “The best thing of all is that we have good agency people like Jay to work with, and a history of collaborative conservation in the Blackfoot Valley to build on.”

– Bryce Andrews Ju an ita

V er o

Photo: Dave Hucker

When I asked my 91-year-old grandfather if the fence project was a success, he quipped, “We wouldn’t do it if it wasn’t gonna work.”

– Juanita Vero approximately 32' apart. The top wire, hung 48" off the ground, is a high-visibility, plastic-sheathed, conductive wire designed especially for horses. The lower ground wire, hung at 40", is standard 12.5 gauge high-tensile steel.

The new fence works well. “Elk go right through it,” Juanita says. “When nobody is putting pressure on them, even the big bulls go under with no problem.” It holds their herd of horses well, too, although Juanita remains uncertain whether the fence would adequately contain other types of livestock.

The Veros have experimented successfully on other parts of the ranch.

A temporary electric fence can be used to keep livestock out of sensitive areas or to manage pasture use, and is easily negotiated by most wildlife.

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Moveable Electric Wire Fence Moveable electric fence can be used for short-duration grazing, to keep livestock out of sensitive areas such as wetlands, or for other situations where livestock need to be temporarily controlled. This fence works well for livestock that have been previously trained to electric fence.

The design can be tailored to your situation, but a simple fence can be constructed using high-visibility tape or “turbo wire” and fiberglass posts or plastic-insulated steel posts. A moveable fence can use either a single hot wire (when there is sufficient moisture for an adequate ground) or two wires, the top one hot and the lower wire grounded.

Moveable posts on the market include designs with hooked or pigtail tops for quickly stringing wire, and a tread-in base.

These can be rapidly set up and moved as needed.

Moveable Electric Wire Fence

• Use 40" to 42" fiberglass or plastic-insulated steel posts, designed with hooks or loops for wire and tread-in spikes at the base.

• Place one to two strands of high-visibility tape or polymer-covered turbo wire. If using two wires, the top should be hot, the lower wire grounded. Top wire should be no higher than 42";

lower wire no lower than 18".

• Use a solar electric energizer (size and placement depends on the run length of fence).

Tips on Electric Fences Most electric fence problems are caused by poor grounding. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for grounding the energizer and fence for your fence type and conditions. The number of ground rods needed may vary; a maximum reading of 0.2kv on a volt meter in dry conditions indicates an adequate ground. Wooden and steel fence posts require insulators for attaching hot wires; ground wires can be stapled or clipped on directly.

Fiberglass and plastic line posts do not need insulators, but do require special clips for attaching wires. Check the fence regularly to be sure it is charged. Se th W ils on

18-22"

40"

Post and Rail Fence all smooth wires

18"

12"

40"

Post and Wire Fence

Post and Rail Fence A post and rail fence is highly visible to wildlife and can be constructed for situations with or without livestock.

Rail fences can either use a top rail with wires below, or two to three rails total.

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Post and Rail Fence

• Use pressure-treated 6′ to 8′ posts, spaced 10′ to 14′ apart.

• Use pressure-treated poles for top rail, placed no more than 40" above the ground. A half-round rail will attach more snugly and require shorter bolts.

• Place smooth lower wires at 18" and 28" above the ground.

Second wire should be at least 12" below top rail.

• OR use pressure-treated poles for lower rails, the bottom rail placed with at least 18" clearance from the ground.

A 2-rail fence is preferable to a 3-rail fence for wildlife. Unless the fence is quite low, use rounded poles for the top rail rather than a square or split-rail to prevent too much snow build-up in winter, which can deter elk and deer. Also, unless the fence is low enough to be easily jumped over and there is ample clearance underneath, boards or planks are not recommended, as these can create a visual barrier.

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Sites with High or Continuous Livestock Use

Most livestock pastures do not require a 5- to 6-strand barbed wire fence. In many situations, a 3- or 4-strand barbed wire fence, a combination of smooth and barbed wire, or a high-tensile electric fence will work well for livestock control, particularly if the pasture quality inside the fence is as good or better as outside the fence.

Tips for Livestock Fences Sheep, bison, and cows with calves may require a more imperme-able fence for control. If you must use fences with woven wire or more than four wires follow these tips:

• �Consider the placement of the fence perimeter carefully, and limit the extent of impermeable fence wherever possible.

• Avoid excluding wildlife from streamsides and water sources, or cutting off migration and travel corridors.

• Keep the fence height to a maximum of 40" to 42" and create periodic crawl-openings for fawns and calves by raising the bottom 18" from the ground, placed where animals typically travel.

• Avoid topping woven wire fences with barbed wire. In any situation, allow 12" between the top wire and the next wire below – whether barbed or woven wire.

• Create seasonal openings using lay-down fence sections or gates to open the fence during months when livestock are not present. Create seasonal openings by leaving a gate open, lowering rails or wires, or using sections of lay-down fence during months when livestock are not present.

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Sheep and Cattle 4-Strand Barbed Wire Fence (Adapted from Wyoming Game and Fish Dept., 2004)

Recommended Wire Heights Above the Ground Cattle Sheep Sheep and Cattle

Top wire 40" to 42" barbed 32" barbed 38" barbed

2nd wire 28" barbed 22" barbed 26" barbed

3rd wire 22" barbed 16" barbed 18" barbed

4th wire 16" to 18" smooth 10" min. smooth 10" min. smooth

4-Strand Wire Fence for Cattle or Sheep

Woven wire fence, the most commonly-used type of fence on sheep range, is also the most problematic for wildlife. It can block wildlife passage, particularly for fawns, calves, prong-horn, and medium-sized animals unable to jump fences. When combined with barbed wire, it has the highest rate of entanglements for wildlife.

An alternative for sheep and cattle range is a 4-strand barbed wire fence that controls livestock but still allows for passage of pronghorn, deer, moose and elk.

For cattle, use a wire spacing of 18"–22"–28"–40"/42". The top wire should be at 40" to 42" or less. Allow 12" between the top two wires and 18" between the bottom wire and the ground.

Use a smooth bottom wire.

Sheep require a low fence that would block most wildlife from crawling beneath the fence. However, a 4-strand fence for sheep can have a top wire no more than 32" high, which is low enough for most wildlife to jump. Allow at least 10" between the top two wires. A lower fence is easier for deer and elk to jump over, and the 10" spacing between top and second wire will usually be adequate.

The bottom wire should be smooth wire and at least 10" above the ground.

Combination Smooth and Barbed Wire Fence

In many situations, a combination of smooth wire and barbed wire can effectively contain livestock and allow for easier wildlife passage. Smooth wire can be used for the top and bottom wires and one to two barbed wire strands are used for the center strands. Barbless twisted cable wire or coated wire will increase visibility for wildlife. The top wire should be 40" to 42" high or lower, and the bottom wire at least 18" above the ground to provide wildlife clearance.

Allow at least 12" between the top and second wires.

Combination Smooth and Barbed Wire

• Place top smooth wire at

40" to 42" maximum height – barbless twisted cable wire or coated wire is recommended.

• Allow at least 12" between top and second wires.

• Place bottom smooth wire at least 18" from the ground.

• Use barbed wire for center two wires.

A bottom smooth wire aids passage for pronghorn and other wildlife.

barbed

16-18" barbed barbed smooth

24"

40-42" 12"

4-Strand FENCE with Bottom Smooth Wire

Wire Suspension Fence Suspension fences have been used successfully on ranches for decades, and with modern materials they are proving to be durable, long-lasting, and low-maintenance. Wires are suspended across a long run between anchor posts, with fence stays placed at regular intervals to keep the wires from tangling. The fence is flexible and resilient when struck by large animals, allowing elk, deer, and moose to pass over easily, yet immediately returns to shape and effectively contains livestock.

A wildlife friendly suspension fence uses no more than four wire strands.

Anchor posts are spaced at least 50' apart, up to a maximum of 100' apart, or much closer in uneven terrain. Adequate bracing is essential to maintain wire tension. Posts may be treated wood, metal, or one of the commercially available bracing systems (for an example, see Southwest Fence Systems braces at www.swfence.com).

To maintain wire spacing, light-weight wood, fiberglass, or composite stays are evenly spaced between the posts.

Be sure stays hang free of the ground and won't catch on vegetation and twist the fence as animals pass over. The stays also reduce tangling and improve visibility for wildlife and livestock. Twisted wire stays are not recommended, as they are easily bent by wildlife passing over the fence, increasing fence maintenance and the risk of entanglement.

Place the top wire no higher than 40" to 42", the bottom wire at 18", and maintain 12" between the top two wires.

A variety of barbed and smooth wire combinations can be used, depending on the situation. For example, use a bottom smooth wire where pronghorn or young deer, elk, or moose are present.

A top smooth wire will aid passage for adult deer, elk, or moose. Use smooth wire for both bottom and top wires in areas with both pronghorn and elk, or both adult and young animals.

Suspension fence has the advantages of using far fewer posts than conventional fence – a savings in materials and labor, and a benefit where posts are difficult to drive. It also reduces or nearly eliminates long-term maintenance.

This suspension fence has a top smooth wire and the stays are unanchored poles, allowing the fence to flex as wildlife passes over or under. Fiberglass or composite stays can also be used.

WIRE SUSPENSION Fence

50-100'

16-18"

40-42"

12"

Wire Suspension Fence

• Place anchor posts 50' to 100' apart; closer in uneven terrain.

• Use sufficient bracing to maintain wire tension.

• Use a maximim of 4 wires:

maximum 40" to 42" top wire, minimum 18" bottom wire, and 12" between the top two wires.

• Evenly space lightweight fence stays (wood, fiberglass, or composite) between the anchor posts. Easily bent wire stays are not recommended.

• Use smooth wire on top and bottom to ease wildlife passage.

• Suspension fence should be periodically checked for twisting, especially during peak migration/movement periods.

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F E N C E S O L U T I O N S P U T T O T H E T E S T

Better Grazing , Thriving Streams and More Wildlife on the Granger Ranches

Jeff Laszlo is the fourth generation to operate the Granger Ranches, his family’s traditional cattle ranch in Montana’s Madison Valley. Spanning 13,000 acres between the soaring Madison Range and trout-laden Madison River, the ranch is a significant corridor for wildlife that move daily and seasonally through the valley, north and south, east and west.

In Jeff ’s grandfather’s day, the family operated under the best understanding of husbandry of the time, draining wetlands, diverting streams, and creating a system of ditches to irrigate pastures. Today Jeff has taken a different approach to managing the ranch resources.

“We were looking for new ways to do business,” he explains. In 2005, Jeff and his family undertook a long-term wetland and stream restoration project across the ranch.

With technical expertise and financial help from a wide variety of non-profit, state and federal agency partners, Jeff has restored nearly 700 acres of river-bottom wetlands and 10 miles of spring-fed stream channels.

The spring creeks once again hold trout, and in less than five years the birds have flourished from only 10 species to more than 100.

As part of the project, Jeff installed wildlife friendly suspension fence to keep his cattle out of the rejuvenating wetlands and streams while allowing wildlife to move through. FWP biologist at the time, Craig

Jourdonnais offered help with the Granger Ranches’ fence projects. “Working together leads to a lot of interesting possibilities,” says Jeff. He liked the design so much he has installed wildlife friendly fence throughout the ranch, wherever old fences need replacement.

Jeff uses a 4-wire suspension fence, with his top wire no higher than 40" and bottom wire at 18" off the ground, the middle wires evenly spaced. Treated wood anchor posts are driven 50' apart and 3 wooden stays keep the wires spaced and taut. The fence then flexes and rebounds as elk, deer, or pronghorn pass over or under it.

On the uplands, where they have a lot of pronghorn, Jeff uses a smooth bottom wire to make passage under the fence easier. On the river bottom, they have more moose, so he reverses the design and uses a smooth top wire with three lower barbed wires.

“It’s a better way to fence than standard 5-wire barbed,” he explains. “First, we like wildlife and have a lot on the ranch, and second, the suspension fence requires a lot less maintenance.”

In addition to the permanent suspension fences, Jeff (in partnership with the Madison River Foundation) uses seasonal single poly-wire electric fence to intensively manage his grazing, especially in the river bottom where annual freezing and overflows make permanent fencing impossible to maintain. The seasonal fence allows Jeff to rotate pastures, control exactly where his cattle graze, and closely manage his grass.

“It produces better calves and leaves the land in better condition,” Jeff explains. “It’s important to me financially, but also important to me to leave better habitat.

People value owning property with great wildlife values.”

The intensive grazing management, he continues, “is especially important in a year like this with dry conditions and short grass.

It’s important to use the grass efficiently and not overuse it, which would potentially create costly issues – such as weeds and ground left less productive for future years.”

“The typical ranch can’t do this type of thing without partnerships, and that requires developing trust.” Jeff adds. “I was willing to try a few things and learned there’s a lot of common ground. We really appreciate the support that FWP has given the ranch. It has resulted in benefits for us as a ranch and for FWP᾽s management of wildlife resources. It really makes sense for agricultural producers to use wildlife friendly fences, as they are less costly, allow for flexibility, and seem to last longer.”

On the Granger Ranches, extensive restoration of spring creeks and wetlands plus broad use of wild-life friendly fences have not only improved grazing and increased habitat for wildlife, but reduced…