Attachment 6 - PD WNUV 13-02.pdf

INCH-POUND

PD WNUV 13-02

28 June 2013

SUPERCEDING

YAG 94-1B

15 SEP 2008

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TEXTURIZED, WOVEN, TWILL, POLYESTER

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNUV, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A:Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

[This page is left intentionally blank.]

INCH-POUND

28 June 2013

SUPERCEDING

YAG 94-1B

15 SEP 2008

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TEXTURIZED, WOVEN, TWILL, POLYESTER

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way

Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNUV, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A:Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for polyester texturized twill cloth.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this document. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this document or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this document, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections (DoD Adopted)

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Ave., Bldg 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.

Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

LAWS AND REGULATIONS

15 U.S.C. 70

Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies may be obtained without charge from http://ww.ftc.gov/index/htm or the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington DC 20580-0001.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL – TEST METHODS

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC 79 Absorbency of Textiles AATCC 117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning AATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home Laundering AATCC 158 Dimensional Changes on Dry-Cleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method

AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL – EVALUATION PROCEDURE

EP- 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies of these technical manuals are available online at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ-Z 1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at www.ansi.org and www.asq.org or from the American National Standards Institute, 25 West 43rd St., 4th Floor, New York NY 10036 and the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Ave., Milwaukee WI 53203-2914.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D3107 Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns

ASTM D3512 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester

ASTM D3775 Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776/D3776M Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics

(Grab Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

NEW

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Standard sample. The cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).

3.2 Material.

3.2.1 Yarn. The yarn shall be two-ply multifilament polyester yarn that has been textured by the false twist or friction twist process in accordance with good commercial practice. The number of filaments per single yarn ply shall be between 30 and 36. All yarns shall have the same number of filaments. The yarns shall be of the modified cross section anti-glitter type, and shall be post plied with from 0 to 3.5 turns per inch.

3.3 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be Shade Air Force Blue 1625 and shall match the standard sample.

3.3.1 Matching. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered lamps, which approximate artificial daylight, having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (± 200) K with illumination of 100 (± 20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 (± 200) K.

3.3.2 Colorfastness. The finished dyed cloth shall show fastness to light, dry-cleaning, perspiration, laundering, dry heat and crocking equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample has been established or designated as applicable to colorfastness, the finished cloth shall show “good” fastness to light, dry-cleaning, perspiration, and laundering and shall show a 9-Step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating for crocking not lower than 3.5. The fabric shall have a colorfastness to dry heat rating for color change and staining not less than 3.5 at 350º F. Testing shall be as specified in Table II.

3.4 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in Table II.

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT

Yarns per inch (min):

Warp 67 Fill 60

Colorfastness:

Light 20 hr. Equal to standard Perspiration Equal to standard Dry-cleaning Equal to standard Laundering Equal to standard Dry heat 3.5 or better

Crocking (min):

Dry 3.5 Wet 3.5

Table I moved from 3.4.2

TABLE I. Physical requirements- Continued.

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT

Weight oz/sq yd (min) 6.5 (± 0.3) Breaking strength (lbs min):

Warp 200 Fill 180

Dimensional stability (5 launderings):

Shrinkage

Warp 2.0% Fill 2.0%

Elongation Warp 1.0% Fill 1.0%

Dimensional stability (1 dry-cleaning):

Shrinkage

Warp 2.0% Fill 2.0%

Elongation Warp 1.0% Fill 1.0%

Absorbency (max):

Original 5 seconds After 40 launderings 20 seconds

Pilling (min) 4.0

3.4.1 Weave. The weave shall be 2 up – 2 down right hand twill.

3.4.2 Usable width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the usable width shall be no less than 59.75 inches.

3.5 Finish. The finished cloth shall show the character of finish and hand shown by the standard sample.

3.6 Dimensional stability.

3.6.1 Dimensional stability to laundering. The finished cloth shall not shrink more than 2.0 percent or elongate more than 1.0 percent in either the length or width direction after five (5) launderings when tested as specified in Table II.

3.6.2 Dimensional stability to dry-cleaning. The finished cloth shall not shrink more than 2.0 percent or elongate more than 1.0 percent in length or width direction after one (1) cycle of dry-cleaning when tested as specified in Table II.

3.6.3 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous length, each roll not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put up full width in a roll in accordance to industry standard and practices.

3.6.4 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.6.5 Face identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping the face side with the word “FACE” on each end of the roll.

3.7 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in 4.3.1.1, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a metallic flag or a 1 to 1-1/2 inch long string.

The metallic flag shall be adhered to the selvage or the string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A metallic flag may represent a defect of any point value. A red string shall represent a three- or four-point defect and a white string shall represent a one- or two-point defect.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor may use facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the document when such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

4.1.2 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the requirement characteristics of this purchase description and shall conform to the producer’s own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.1.3 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced standards and publications unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description.

4.2 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests of this purchase description.

4.3 Methods of inspection.

4.3.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined.

When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in section III of FED-STD-4, which are clearly noticeable at an inspection distance of three

(3) feet, shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.3.1.1. No linear yard (increments of one (1) yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one (1) roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four (4) points. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (rolls) 1/

3200 or fewer 8 3201 up to and including 10,000 13

10,001 or more 20

1/ No more than one (1) roll shall be taken from any shipping container unless the number of shipping containers in the lot is less than the required number of rolls, in which case all shipping containers shall be present in the sample.

The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined, exceed

10.0. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards, of two (2) or more individual rolls, exceed 15.0. If one (1) roll exceeds 15.0 points per 100 square yards, a second sample shall be examined only for individual roll quality. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more rolls in the second sample exceed 15.0 points per 100 square yards. Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Total point s scored in sample × 3600 = Points per 100 square yards Contracted width of cloth (inches) x total yards inspected)

4.3.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

Defects in any dimension Points Up to three (3) inches 1 Exceeding three (3) inches, but not exceeding six (6) inches 2 Exceeding six (6) inches, but not exceeding nine (9) inches 3 Exceeding nine (9) inches 4

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur:

Bowed or bias filling exceeding two (2) inch deviation from normal alignment Baggy, ridged or wavy cloth Objectionable odor Width less than specified Uneven weaving Tight selvage Tight warp end

4.4 Tests. The testing specified in Table II shall be followed.

TABLE II. Test methods.

CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT

PARAGRAPH TEST METHOD

Yarns per inch (min):

Warp 3.2.1 ASTM D3775 1/ Fill 3.2.1 ASTM D3775 1/

Colorfastness:

Light 20 hr. 3.3.2 AATCC 16, Option A or E Perspiration 3.3.2 AATCC 15 Dry-cleaning 3.3.2 AATCC 132 Laundering 3.3.2 AATCC 61, 3A Dry heat 3.3.2 AATCC 117 2/

Crocking (min):

Dry 3.3.2 AATCC 8 Wet 3.3.2 AATCC 8

Weight oz/sq yd (min) 3.4 ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C Breaking strength (lbs min):

Warp 3.4 ASTM D5034 Fill 3.4 ASTM D5034

Dimensional stability to:

(5 launderings) Shrinkage

Warp 3.4, 3.6.1 AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, iii Fill 3.4, 3.6.1 AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, iii

Dimensional stability to:

(5 launderings), continued Elongation

Warp 3.4, 3.6.1 AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, iii Fill 3.4, 3.6.1 AATCC 135, Table I, method 3, III, iii

Dimensional stability to:

(1 dry-cleaning) Shrinkage

Warp 3.4, 3.6.2 AATCC 158 Fill 3.4, 3.6.2 AATCC 158

Elongation Warp 3.4, 3.6.2 AATCC 158 Fill 3.4, 3.6.2 AATCC 158

Absorbency (max):

Original 3.4 AATCC 79 After 40 launderings 3.4 AATCC 79

Pilling (min) 3.4 ASTM D3512 3/, 4/

NOTES:

1/ The supplier shall submit a Certificate of Compliance for these characteristics.

2/ Set temperature at 356o F.

3/ Modified with sandpaper.

4/ Run for 15 minutes.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements.

Packaging requirements are maintained by the inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this purchase description is intended for use in the manufacture of optional service dress items for the United States Air Force Optional Uniform Program.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of the purchase description.

b. Class of cloth required (see 1.2).

c. Quantity required.

d. Minimum length, if other than specified (see 3.6.3).

e. Minimum width, if other than specified (see 3.4.2).

6.3 Standard sample and purchase description. Requests for a shade sample should be addressed to:

AFLCMC/WNUV TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH.

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Absorbency AF Optional Purchase Program Breaking strength Dimensional stability Fiber content Pilling Service coat Weave

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodian: Preparing Activity:

Air Force − 11 Air Force − 11

NEW