Attachment 2 - PD 83-9 Cloth Tropical Polyester Wool.pdf

AERONAUTICAL SYSTEMS CENTER PURCHASE DESCRIPTION AESC 83-9

311TH HUMAN SYSTEMS WING 21 JUNE 1990

AIR FORCE CLOTHING DIVISION

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, TROPICAL, POLYESTER/WOOL

1. SCOPE

1.1 This purchase description covers two types of tropical polyester and wool Air Force washable cloth. Type I shall be identified as Air Force Blue Shade 1581. Type II shall be identified as Air Force Blue Shade 1626.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Issues of documents. The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods

MILITARY

MIL-STD-1O5 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

ASTM-D3951 Commercial Packaging of Supplies and Equipment

(Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

LAWS AND REGULATIONS

US DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top

(Application for copies should be addressed to the US Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20302.)

Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939

PD AESC 83-9

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.)

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Standard sample. The dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 Fibers.

3.2.1.1 Polyester fiber. The fiber shall be polyethylene terephthalate.

Fiber length of the polyester shall be 3 inches minimum.

3.2.1.2 Wool. The wool shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 62’s U.S. Standard, when tested as specified in 4.3. Fiber length of the wool shall be 3 – 3 1/2 inches average minimum.

3.2.2 Yarns. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester and wool, spun into single yarns for both warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain not more than 83 percent polyester and the remaining percentage wool based on the dry weight of the desized specimen. Tests shall be made as specified in 4.3.

The fabric shall be manufactured utilizing yarn spun on the long staple fiber length worsted spinning system.

3.3 Color. The color of the dyed and finished Type I cloth shall be shade Air Force Blue 1581. The color of the dyed and finished Type II cloth shall be shade Air Force Blue 1626. The Type I and Type II cloth shall match the standard sample.

3.3.1 Matching. The dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample under artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500 Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800 Kelvin.

3.3.2 Colorfastness. The dyed and finished cloth shall show fastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), croaking, perspiration and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample has been established or designated as applicable to colorfastness, the dyed and finished cloth shall show "good" fastness to laundering (after 3 cycles), perspiration and light, and shall show a Munsell Value for crocking not lower than 8.5. Tests shall be made as specified in 4.3.

3.4 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table 1 when tested as specified in 4.3.

TABLE I

Weight Yarns per inch Breaking Strength Tear Strength oz/sq yd Minimum - lbs. Minimum Minimum Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Type I

4.0 4.6 66 59 100 80 3.5 3.0

Type II 5.0-6.0 55 44 125 100 10.0 8.0

3.4.1 Weave. The weave shall be a plain weave (1X1).

3.4.2 Width. The width, exclusive of selvage, shall be a minimum of 60 inches, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2).

3.5 Finish. The cloth shall be scoured, heat set, brushed, singed, sheared, pressed and decated so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample.

3.5.1 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.3.

3.5.2 Pilling. The finished cloth shall show no more pilling than that of the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.3.

3.6 Appearance rating. The cloth shall be processed so that the dyed and finished cloth shall have an average appearance rating no less than 3.5 when tested after 5 launderings as specified in 4.3.

3.7 Dimensional stability. The finished cloth shall have dimensional changes of not more than 2.0 percent in the warp or filling direction when tested as specified in 4..3. The preshrinking process used shall not be identified by name or trademark either on the cloth, ticket or package.

3.8 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be finished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in PPP-P-1134.

3.9 Fiber identification. Each roll or cloth shall be labeled, ticketed, for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.10 Marking. The back side of the cloth shall be identified by. applying a stamping on that side or the cloth with the word “BACK” at each end of the piece.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this purchase description. The demerit points per 100 square yards (84 m) when calculated as specified in section 4, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a 1 to 1-1/2 inch long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect.

A red string shall represent a three or four point defect and a white string shall represent a one or two point defect.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for instruction shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105 except where otherwise indicated hereinafter.

4.2.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.2.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4.2.2.l through 4.2.2.4.

4.2.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards (91 m) only 100 yards (91 m) shall be examined. All defects as defined in Section 1 of FED-STD-4, which are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet), (91 m) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.2.2.1.1 except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scale (6.4), D for slubs and B for knots, shall be scored. No linear yard (increments of 1 yards (0.9l m) on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be 20 rolls selected from 20 containers. The 1ot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards (84 m2) of the total yardage examined exceeds 20.0 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards (816 m2) of two or more individual rolls exceeds 33.0 points. If no individual roll exceeds the point level, the lot shall be acceptable with respect to this characteristic. If one roll exceeds the point level, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for the individual roll quality examination. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more rolls in the second sample exceeds the point level.

Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Total points scored in sample X 3600 = Points per 100 Contracted width of cloth (inches) X total yds inspected sq yds (84 m2)

4.2.2.1. Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

For defects 3 inches (76 mm) in any dimension - one point

For defects exceeding 3 inches (76 mm), but not - two points exceeding 6 inches (152 mm) in any dimension

For defects exceeding C itches (152 mm), but not - three points exceeding 9 inches (229 mm.) in any dimension

For defects exceeding 9 inches (229 mm) in any - four points dimension

NOTE: The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard (0.9 m) in which they occur:

Edges of roll build up or softness of roll in body of cloth

Width less then specified

Poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or cloudy

Excessive neppiness

Shading defects: shaded side to side, side to center, end to end

4.2.2.2 Individual rolls. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any length found to be less than the minimum specified or more than two yards (1.8 m) less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a detect with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length.

4.2.2.2.1 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the roll tickets. The rolls examined shall be those selected for the examination of individual rolls.

4.2.2.3 Examination for shade variation. During the yard-by-yard examination each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation.

Any roll in the sample exhibiting uneven shade, shade variation side to side, side to center, or end to end shall be cause for rejection or the entire lot represented by the sample.

4.2.2.4 Examination for face marking, and compliance with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects listed below. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more or the following defects are present in the sample:

Contain identification of a preshrinkage process by name or trademark on cloth or ticket.

Back stamping missing from either both ends.

Not labeled or ticketed in accordance with the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

4.2.3 Packaging inspection. Examination shall be made in accordance with the provisions of PPP-P-1134 to determine that packing and marking comply with section 5 requirements.

4.3 Tests. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191 wherever applicable and as listed in table II shall be followed. The physical and chemical values specified in section 3 apply to the average result of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test methods. The sample unit shall be 4 continuous yards (3.6

m) full width of the finished cloth. A 1/4 yard (.23 m) full width of the dyed untreated cloth shall also be submitted, for nonfibrous materials testing. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one yard each. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. All test reports shall contain the individual value utilized in expressing the final results. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) (.9l meter) Sample site (units)

800 (731 m) or less 2

801 (732 m) up to and including 22,000 (21,108 m) 3

22,001 (20,109 m) and over 5

TABLE II. Test methods

Requirement Test Characteristic Paragraph Method__

Fiber content (percentage) 3.2.2 2102

Yarn (single)

Warp 3.2.2 Visual 1/

Filling 3.2.2 Visual 1/

Colorfastness to

Wet Dry Cleaning 3.3.2 5622

Laundering (After 3 cycles) 3.3.2 5614 2/

Crocking 3.3.2 5651

Perspiration 3.3.2 5680

Light 3.3.2 5660

Weight 3.4 5041

Yarns per inch (cm) Warp 3.4 5050

Filling 3.4 5050

Tear Strength Warp 3.4 5132

Filling 3.4 5132

Breaking Strength Warp 3.4 5100

Filling 3.4.1 5100

Weave 3.4 Visual 1/

Appearance rating 3.6 4.3.1

TABLE II. Test methods (cont’d)

Requirement Test Characteristic Paragraph Method__

Dimensional stability 3.7 4.3.1 pH 3.5.1 2811

Pilling 3.5.2 5320

1/ One determination per sample unit and the result reported as pass or fail.

2/ The specimens shall be dried after each of the three laundering cycles.

4.3.1 The following apparatus and materials are required:

(a) The wheel wash method will be used in accordance with Federal Standard 191A Textile Test Methods, Method 5614, 5550, and paragraph 4.1.1.

(b) Drying method for testing will be used in accordance with Federal Standard 191A Method 5556 and paragraph 4.1.4. These Standards are available on the internet at www.dodssp.daps.mil.

(c) AATCC Standard Detergent 124 or equivalent.

(d) Dummy pieces for ballast - 36 x 36 inches (914 X 914 mm) hemmed pieces of similar cloth which when added to test specimens will make an approximately 4-pound (1.8 kg) load.

4.3.1.1 The following materials are required for evaluation of the samples:

Overhead lighting procedure. Apparatus shall be as specified in AATCC Test Method 124-l978, Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings. In addition, AATCC three dimensional Durable Press Replicas shall be required.

4.3.1.l.1 Evaluation shall be conducted in a room where the only source of light will be that used for observation. To prevent unwanted reflection of light that will interfere with observation, the walls of The room may be painted a flat non-reflecting black or blackout curtains may be hung on each side of the viewing area.

4.3.1.2 Test for appearance and dimensional stability after laundering.

4.3.1.2.1 Preparation of specimens. Three specimens 22-X 22 inches (559 X 559 mm) measured parallel to the warp and filling shall be cut from a portion of the cloth sample. One specimen shall be cut from each side of the sample unit to within three inches (76 mm) of the selvages and the third specimen shall be taken from the center. No two specimens shall contain the same filling yarns. The specimen shall be conditioned to equilibrium under Standard Conditions in accordance with FED-STD-191. The conditioned specimens shall be laid without tension on a flat surface, care being taken that the cloth is free from wrinkles or creases. Three distances, each a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm), shall be measured and marked off parallel to each of the warp and filling directions of the specimen. Each pair of markings shall be a minimum of 6 inches (152 mm) from each other and not closer than one inch (25 mm) to the edges of the specimen. The distance may be marked with indelible ink and a fine pointed pen, or by sewing fine threads into the cloth, or by stamping. The samples shall then be laundered in accordance with 4.3.1.2.2.

4.3.1.2.2 Laundering. Place the three 22 X 22 inch (559 x 559 mm) specimens in the washer. The washing load shall be 4 ± 1/4 pounds (l.8 ± .1 kg). Dummy pieces shall be added to the machine, along with the specimens to make up the 4 + 1/4 pounds (1.8 ± .1 kg). Fill to the full water level of the washer with water of a hardness not to exceed 50 parts per million and at a temperature of 115° ± 5° F (46° + 2° C) and the rinse temperature shall be 80° ± 5° F (26 + 2° C). Add 140 ± 1 grams of detergent. Set the washer for a 12 minute cycle on the "Permanent Press" setting. Allow the washing to proceed automatically through the final spin cycle. Remove the specimens immediately at the completion of the final spin and separate from the dummy pieces and each other if tangled. Place the complete washed load (4 pounds) (1.8 kg) in the dryer and dry at a permanent press setting with a ten minute cool cycle. Operate the dryer until the load is dry and continue tumbling 5 minutes with the heat turned off (cool down cycle). Remove the load immediately after the machine stops. Repeat the wash and dry cycles for 5 complete cycles. All the specimens are removed and are conditioned to equilibrium in accordance with FED-STD-l9l.

4.3.1.2.3 Evaluation. Three trained observers shall evaluate each sample unit for appearance characteristics. The observers shall make their evaluations independent of each other. Each observer shall evaluate each specimen for appearance as it hangs on the viewing board while standing in front of the viewing board and four feet back from it.

4.3.l.2.4 Evaluation of the appearance of the cloth. The overhead lighting shall be used. Mount each 22 X 22 inch (559 X 559 mm) sample on the viewing board with the center of the specimen five feet from the floor. Place three-dimensional plastic replicas on each side of the specimen with the centers five feet from the floor to facilitate comparative rating. The specimen shall be rated according to the appearance on the plastic replica that most nearly matches the appearance of the cloth. No estimated rating falling between the approved replicas shall be given. The average of the rating values assigned for appearance of the cloth by the observers rounded off to the nearest 0.1 rating shall be the rating for the specimen. Each rating value given by the observers for the appearance of the cloth shall also be reported.

4.3.l.2.5 Dimensional stability. After evaluation for appearance is made, the three 22 X 22 inch (559 X 559 mm) specimens shall be laid out without tension on a flat surface in the standard atmosphere. Care shall be taken that the specimens are free from wrinkles and creases. The previously measured distance marked at the specimens shall be measured in both the warp and filling directions. The dimensional stability of the specimens shall be calculated as follows:

Dimensional change, percent = A-B X 100 A

Where A = Average of initial measurements (3 specimens)

B = Average measurements after laundering (3 specimens)

The dimensional change of the sample unit in the warp and filling directions shall be the average of the specimens tested in each direction respectively and shall be reported separately to the nearest 0.1 percent. The individual values used to calculate the average shall also be reported.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation. Preservation shall be Commercial.

5.1.1 Commercial. The cloth shall be preserved in accordance with MIL-STD-ll88.

5.2 Packing. Packing shall be Commercial.

5.3 Commercial packing. Cloth preserved as specified in 5.1 shall be packed in accordance with ASTM-D3951.

6. NOTES

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this purchase description is intended for use in the manufacturing of optional shirts, blouses for the United States Air Force Optional Program.

6.2 Ordering data. Procurement documents should specify the following:

(a) Title, number and date of this purchase description.

(b) Width if other than specified (see 3.4.2).

(c) Length it other than specified (see 3.8).

6.3 Standard sample. A standard sample may be obtained upon written request to 311 HSW/YACLC, Bldg. 55, 2255 Monahan Way, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7009.

6.4 Sears Fabric Defect Scales are available from Sears Roebuck and Company, Department 733Q, "Fabric Defect Replica Kit," Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684.

Prepared by: U. S. Air Force 311 HSW/YACLC, Bldg 55 2255 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7009