Attachment 5 - AESC 82-2 Poly Wool Bl 1583.pdf

AERONAUTICAL SYSTEMS' DIVISION

DEPUTY FOR AERONAuTICAL EQUIPMENT

LIFE SUPPORT SYSTEMS PROGRAM OFFICE

CLOTHING DIVISION

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION AESC 82-2

19 APR 1982

CLOTH, TROPICAL: POLYESTER/WOOL

SCOPE

1.1 Scope.

Blue 1583.

This Purchase Description covers polyester/wool blend tropical cloth, 2.

APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 The following documents of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a part of this Purchase Description to the extent specified herein:

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

PPP-P-1132 -Packaging and Packing of Woolen, Worsted and Wool Blend (Synthetic Fiber; Cotton) Fabrics

MILITARY

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED~STD-191 -Textile Test Methods

MILITARY

MIL-STD-655 -Provision for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends

(Copies of specificationst standardst drawings and publications required by suppliers in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.)

LAW AND REGULATIONS

US Department of Agriculture

Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top

(Application for copies should be addressed to the US Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington DC 20402.)

Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents Government Printing Office, Washington DC 20402.)

2.2 Other Publications. The following document forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless a specific issue is identified, the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply: !

Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Method No. 128-1969 -Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics Appearance Method

(Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC, POBox 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709.

3. REGUIREMENTS

3.1 Standard Sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3.)

3.2 Materials.

3.2.1 F:;be;~..

3.2.1.1 Wool. The stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than-64ls US Standard, when tested as specified in 4.2.1. The use of noils, laps or other wool manufacturing by-product is prohibited.

3.2.1.2 Polyester. The stock shall be semi-dull, 3 denier polyester fiber, made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate (see 4.2.1 and 6.6). The denier and fiber length _shall be suitable to blend adequately with the specified wool grade and meet the require-ments of the specificati~n~ The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited.

3.2.2 Yarn.

2.

3.2.2.1 Polyester-Wool Blend. The polyester fiber and wool fiber shall be blended and spun into a 3-plyyarn for both warp and filling. The finished cloth shall consist of the fo1lowing fiber percentages based on the ove~'-dry weight when tested as specified in 4.4:

55 percent (min), 60 percent (max) polyester fiber, 3 denier

40 percent (min), wool fiber, 64's US Standard (or finer

NOTE: Selvage yarn. To prevent edges of cloth from building-up when rolled, 3-ply yarns used in the selvage may be made of a finer count than those used in the body of the cloth. The same wool/polyester fiber used in the body of the cloth shall also be used in the selvage yarns.

3.3 Color. The color shall be Blue 1583 and shall match the standard sample.

The color shall be obtained by piece dyeing. Monotone shades regardless of blend composition shall present a solid appearance with no more heatheriness than is displayed by the standard sample.

3.3.1 Matching. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample under artificial daylight having a color temperature of 75000 Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 28000 Kelvin.

3.3.2 Colorfastness. The fi~ished cloth shall show fastness to wet dry-cleaning, crocking, perspiration and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sam~le has been established or designated as applicable to colorfastness, the finished cloth shall show " good II fastness to wet drycleaning, perspiration and light, and shall show a Munsell Value for crocking not less than 8.5. The fastness to light exposure time for good fastness shall be 40 stamdard fading hours. Tests shall be as specified in 4.4.

3.4 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.

TABLE!. Physical Requirements

Weight Per Yarns Per Breaking Shrinkage Linear Yard Inch Strength Percent 56 Inch Minimum Width Basis (Minimum) (Pounds) (Maximum) Weave

Filling FillingOunces Warp Warp Warp Filling

10.5 (:to.5) 53 46 100 80 2.5 2.0 Plain

3.4.1 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the width for the cloth shall be not less than 60 inches exclusive of selvages.

3.5 Finish. The cloth shall be scoured, brushed, sheared, --

pressed and decated so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample. The finished cloth shall show no more creping after shrinkage test than exhibited by the standard sample. The finished cloth shall not show wrinkling to a degree greater than as shown by the standard sample after one dry cleaning. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.

3.5.1 Pilling. The cloth shall be singed and finished to show no more pilling than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4 (see 6.6).

3.5.2 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no lessthan 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.

3.6 Selvages. The selvages shall be no thicker than thirtY~five percent more than the body of the cloth when tested as specified in 4.4. The selvages shall be so constructed that in the finished cloth they shall lie flat when the material is laid out for cutting.

3.7 Length and Put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2) the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards, or as specified by procuring activity. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in PPP-P-1132.

3.8 Wool Content Label. Cloth manufactured under this specification shall --~ be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 (see 2.1). :",

3.9 Marking. The back of the cloth shall be marked "BACK" at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height (see 4.2.2.3). The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking medium used commercially.

3.10 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in section 4 shall not exceed the established maximum point value.

Each defect shall be marked with a 1 to 1-1/2 inch long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A red string shall represent a three or four point defect and a white string represents a one or two point defect (see 4.2.2.5).

4 QUALTIY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Responsibility for Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the supplier is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or order, the supplier may use his own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.

4.1.1 Certificate of Compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification.

4.2 Quality Confonnance Inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with" MIL-STD-655, except when otherwise indicated here-in-after.

4.2.1 C~mpon~nt andM~terial Inspection. In accordance with 4.1, above, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings and standards, unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification, or applicable purchase document.

TABLE II. Component Test Method

Requirement Test Characteristic Paragraph Method--

Polyester Identification 3.2.1.2 4.4.1 .!/

1/ Unless otherwise specified, a certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirement.

4.2.1.1 ~. The wool shall be examined for grade (see 3.2.1.1) in undyed top form by comparison with the applicable US Standard (see 2.1). In the event of a dispute, the wool grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). The sample unit shall be 1 yard of undyed top. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be as shown in the table below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 pound. The result from each sample unit shall be reported separately. The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the required grade.

Lot Size (Pounds) Sample Size

800 or Less 801 up to and including 22,000 22,001 and Over

5.

4.2.1.2 In-Process Inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to assure that only approved components are used and that the dyeing and singeing requirements have been adhered to (see 3.3 and 3.5.1), The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.2.2 Examination of the End Item. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4.2.2.1 through 4.2.2.5.

4.2.2.1 Yard-by-yard Examination. The yard-by-yard examination shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655. The fabric quality shall be Grade 12.

4.2.2.1.1 Limits of Slubs and Knots. Only slubs and knots, which exceed "0" for slubs and "(" for knots, on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.7) shall be scored.

4.2.2.2 Examination for Length.specified in MIL-STD-655. - The examination for length shall be as

4.2.2.3 Examination for Back Marking and Compliance with the Wool Products Labeling ct. he examination for back marking and comp iance with the Wool Products Labeling Act shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655.

4.2.2.4 Examination for Shade Match and Finish, Individual Rolls. Each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade match see 3.3.2) and finish (see 3.5). A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade match or finish. The sample unit shall be a 4-inch by 20-inch swatch of the cloth. A sample unit shall be drawn from each roll in the lot.

4.2.2.5 Examination for Defect Marking (Stringing of Defects).for defect marking shall be specified in MIL-STD-655. - The examination

4.3 Examination of Preparation for Delivery Requirements. Examination shall be made in accordance with the provisions o-f PPP-P-1132, to determine that packaging, packing and marking complies with the section 5 requirements.

4.4 Tests. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable and as listed in Table III shall be followed. The physical and chemical values specified in section 3 apply to the result of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test method. The sample unit shall be 4-1/2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one yard. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final result. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be in accordance with the following:

Sample Size

Lot Size (Yards)

800 or Less 801 up to and including 22,000 22,001 and Over

TABLE III. Test Methods

Requirement Test Characteristic Paragraph Method~

Yarn Ply 3.2.2.1 Visual

Fiber Percentage 3.2.2.1

3.3.3 3.3.3 3.3.3 3.3.3

Colorfastness:

Wet Dryclea.ning Crocking Light Perspiration

Wei ght 3.4

Yarns Per Inch:

Warp Filling

3.4 3.4

Breaking Strength:

Warp Fi 11 i ng

3.4 3.4

Shrinkage:

Warp Filling

3.4 3.4

Weave 3.4 Visual 2/

Creping After Shrinkage 3.5 Visual 3/

Wrinkle Recovery 3.5 4/

Pilling 3.5.1 5320 5/ pH 3.5.2

Selvage Thickness 3.6 5030

1/ As specified in MIL-C-43665.

2/ One determination per sample unit and the results reported as "pass" or "fail".

3/ Each shrinkage test specimen shall be visually examined for creping and the results reported as "pass" or "fail". Failure of anyone of the test specimens shall be cause for rejection.

4/ Wrinkle recovery. The specimens shall be drycleaned in accordance with Method 5580 of FED-STD-191, except that the specimen shall not be marked and evaluated for shrinkage and shall not be pressed.

Wrinkle recovery shall be evaluated in accordance with AATCC Method 128-1969.

5/ The pilling test shall be conducted in accordance with Method 5320, except that five specimens of the test cloth and one specimen of the standard sample shall be used concurrently.

4.4.1 Polyester Identification. The polyester fiber shall be dyed at the boil, with Basic Red #14, using Orthophenylphenol as a carrier, at a pH of 5 :t.25 for one hour. Known samples of both the homopolymer type polyester and modified polyester shall be dyed simultaneously as a guide. The modified polymer will dye to a red shade, the homopolymer will show not more than a slight stain. This test is applied to the undyed fiber.

4.4.1.1 Fiber. The polyester filament shall be insoluble in each of the followingSOTii""ents: acetone (boiling), 70 percent sulfuric acid, 5.0 percent sodium hydroxide (boiling), and methylene chloride (boiling). The methylene chloride shall be prepared by mixing nine parts reagent methylene chloride with one part U.S.P. (95 percent) ethyl alcohol. The methylene chloride solution is extremely toxic and adequate ventilation or use of fume hood is recommended. Unless otherwise specified the above solvents shall be used at room temperature, using 100 times as much reagent as fiber. The fiber shall remain in the solvent for ten minutes with intermittent stirring.

This is a visual qualitative test.

5. PREPARATION FOR DELIVERY

5.1 Put-up and Packaging.

specified (see 6.2).

Put-up and packaging shall be level A or C as

5.1.1 Levels A and C. The cloth shall be put up and packaged in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132, except that the moth repellent requirements shall not apply.

Packing shall be level A, B or C, as specified (see 6.2)5.2 Packing.

8.

5.2.1 levels A, Band C. The cloth shall be packed in accordance with the applicable requirements of PPP-P-1132.

5.3 Marking. In addition to any special marking required in the contract or order, shipments shall be marked in accordance with the requirements of

PPP-P-1132.

6.

NOTES

6.1 Intended Use. The cloth is intended for use in the manufacturing of Mess Dress Uniforms for officers and enlisted personnel of the US Air Force, Department of Defense.

6.2 Ordering Data. Procurement documents should specify the following:

Title, number and date of this Purchase Description.a.

Color (see 3.3).b.

Width of cloth, if other than 60 inch width is required (see 3.4.1c.

Minimum length, if other than specified (see 3.7).d.

e. Selection of applicable levels of put-up packaging and packing (see

5.1 and 5.2).

6.3 Standard Sample. For access to standard sample, address the procuring office issuing the invitation for bids.

6.5 Notes of Caution to Manufacturers.

6.5.1 Polyester Fiber Type. The choice of the polyester fiber type should be made by the supplier for a minimum pilling tendency and the fiber which will meet the colorfastness level of the specification (see 3.2.1.2).

6.5.2 Fiber Length. The longest staple length commensurate with the staple of the wool, with proper twist multipliers to prevent pilling, should be used in the manufacture of this cloth (see 3.2.1.2).

6.5.3 Twist in the Yarns. The twist in the yarns for both the singles and the ply shall be such that the polyester fibers shall be so locked within the yarn structure that migration in subsequent processing and in the weaving of the cloth will not form pills (see 3.2.2.2).

9.

6.5.4 Singeing. The cloth should be closely singed in order to minimize the amount of pilling (see 3.5.1).

6.6 Sears Fabric Defect Scales are available from:

Sears, Roebuck and Company Department 733Q "Sears Defect Replica Kit" Sears Tower Chicago IL 60684

Custodians: Preparing Activity:

Air Force -11 Air Force -11

10.