Attachment 1 - PD WNUV 15-08 Worsted Wool Fabric.pdf

INCH-POUND

PD WNUV 15-08

28 September 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, WOOL WORSTED, TWILL

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

[This page is left intentionally blank.]

INCH-POUND

PD WNUV 15-08

28 September 2015

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, WOOL WORSTED, TWILL

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way

Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to

AFLCMC/WNUV, AFUO, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for worsted wool twill cloth intended for use in the manufacture of the Air Force men’s and women’s premium service dress uniforms.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this document, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL STANDARDS

FED-STD-4 Glossary of Fabric Imperfections

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS

MIL-STD-655 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends

(Copies of the above documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 4/D, Philadelphia, PA 19111- 5094.)

2.2.2 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other

Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.)

Rules and Regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act

(Copies of this document may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S.

Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.)

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (USDA)

United States Standards for Grades of Wool

(Copies of this document may be obtained from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, USDAA Marketing Service Information Office, Room 3510-S, P.O. Box 96456, Washington, DC 20090- 6456.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 81 pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabric: Appearance Method AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Dry-Cleaning AATCC 158 Dimensional Changes on Dry-cleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP 9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of AATCC Technical Manuals are available online at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ-Z 1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.asq.org or http://www.ansi.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 N. Plankinton Ave., Milwaukee, WI 53203 or from the American National Standards Institute, 25 West 43rd St., 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D519 Standard Test Method for Length of Fiber of Wool Top ASTM D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling

Pendulum (Elmendorf Type) Apparatus ASTM D1776 Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D1907 Standard Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number_ by the

Skein Method ASTM D2130 Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by

Microprojection ASTM D3511 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface

Changes to Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling Tester ASTM D3774 Standard Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric ASTM D3775 Standard Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776 Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D4966 Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics

(Martindale Abrasion Tester Method) ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile

Fabrics (Grab Test)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.)

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND COMPANY

Sears Fabric Defect Kit

(Copies are available from Sears, Roebuck and Company, Department 817HG, FC568B, 3333 Beverly Road, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test-Modified Draize Procedure-Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition), A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.

(Copies are available online at http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

http://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/

3.1 Pilot lot. When specified (see 6.3), a sample shall be subjected to pilot lot inspection in accordance with see 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Cloth description. The cloth shall be 100% worsted wool with a 2/1 right hand twill weave as specified in 4.5.

3.2.1 Standard sample. The dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, appearance, colorfastness, hand and finish. The finished cloth shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

3.3 Materials.

3.3.1 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3.2 Wool Fiber. The wool stock shall not be lower in grade than 70’s in accordance with United

States Standards for Grades of Wool when tested. The use of noils, laps, or any other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited. The wool shall be visually examined for grade in scoured form prior to dyeing, picking, or carding by comparison with the applicable U.S. Standard. The examination for grade shall be performed on a composite sample of 1 pound (0.45 KG) of scoured wool for each 10,000 pounds (4500 KG) or fraction thereof in the lot. The composite sample shall be selected from not less than 10 percent of the bags/bales in the lot. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more composite samples fail to meet the requirements. The sample unit shall be 1 yard (0.91 m) of undyed top (see.4.4.1).

3.3.3 Yarn. The wool stock shall be thoroughly scoured, blended, carded, and evenly spun on the worsted system into 2 ply/47 count yarn for both warp and filling directions (see 4.5).

3.4 Color. The cloth shall be dyed to match Air Force shade Blue 1660. The color of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample (see 6.2). The color shall be applied in stock or top form.

3.4.1 Visual shade matching. Each roll in the finished lot shall be examined visually for shade match, appearance and finish. When viewed as specified in 4.4.3.3, the fabric shall be a good match to its respective standard sample. A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade match, appearance and finish. The results shall be reported as pass or fail.

3.4.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show gray scale for color change ratings for colorfastness to dry cleaning, perspiration, and light as well as chromatic transference scale ratings for crocking equal to or better than those specified in Table I.

3.5 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.1. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.6 Physical Requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements listed in

Table I.

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Fiber content (finished cloth) (min.) 99% wool Fiber length, worsted wool (inches) 3.0-3.5 Fiber fineness 20.59 micron-70’s Width (inches) (min.) 60 Weight (oz./yd.2) (min.)

6.25

Yarn ply Warp 2 ply Filling 2 ply Yarn Worsted Count Warp 47 Filling 47 Yarns per inch (min.)

Warp 85 Filling 52 Colorfastness to: (min.)

Dry cleaning 4.0 Crocking Dry 4.0 Wet 4.0 Perspiration 4.0 Light (after 40 hours) 4.0

TABLE I. Physical requirements - continued.

Characteristic Requirement

Breaking strength (min. lbs.)

Warp 100 Filling 50 Tearing strength (min. lbs.)

Warp 2.5 Filling 2.5 Dimensional stability

Warp and filling (max. %) Dry cleaning 2.5 Steaming 2.5 Wrinkle Recovery Test (min.) 4.0 Weave 2/1 RHT Abrasion (min.) 4.0 at 20,000 rubs (Option 2) Pilling (min.) 4.0 pH 5.5-8.5

3.6.1 Width. The width of the finished cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvage when fly shuttle looms or tuck-in selvage looms are used. For all other shuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be between the last warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe(s).

3.6.2 Finish. The finished cloth shall be equal to or better than the standard sample as specified in 3.2.1 and 4.4.3.3.1.

3.7 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls in accordance with the industry’s standard practice.

3.8 Wool content. The finished cloth shall contain not less than 99 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.5.

3.9 Wool content label. Cloth manufactured under this document shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act.

3.10 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act as specified in 2.2.2.

3.11 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall be uniform in quality and free from irregular defects that can affect usage or durability and the defects specified in FED-STD-4.

3.12 Fabric back Identification. The back side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping on that side with the word “back” at each end of the roll.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. Pilot lot inspection (see 4.2)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 Pilot lot inspection. The pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample size will be as specified and shall be inspected for appearance, shade, and finish defects when tested as specified in 4.4 and 4.5. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the pilot lot.

4.2.1 Pilot lot samples. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), the number of samples for pilot lot inspection shall be 5 yards. The sample unit shall be one yard and the lot size shall be expressed in units of yards.

4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this document. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The sample unit shall be one yard and the lot size shall be expressed in units of yards.

4.4 Inspection methods.

4.4.1 Wool grade examination. The wool shall be visually examined for grade (see 3.3.2) in undyed top form by comparison with the applicable United States Standard. In the event of a dispute, the wool grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). The sample unit shall be 1 yard of undyed top prior to blending with nylon or polyester fibers. The sample size shall be as shown below. The result from each sample unit shall be reported separately.

Lot size (pounds) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail the meet the required grade.

4.4.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point during any phase of the manufacturing operation to assure that no laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products are used (see. 3.3.1, 3.3.2, and 3.3.3), and that the dyeing requirements have been adhered to (see 3.4). The Government reserves the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance.

4.4.3 Visual examination. The cloth shall be examined on face side only for all defects defined in Section I of MIL-STD-655 which are clearly visible at normal inspection distance (three feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points except that only those slubs and knots which exceed the limits show on Sears Fabric Defect Scale, “D” or “3-1/2” for slubs and “C” for knots, shall be scored. No linear yard (increment of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined exceed 30 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of two or more individual rolls exceed 45 points. If one roll exceeds the point level per 100 square yards, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for the individual roll quality. If one or more rolls in the second sample of 20 exceeds the individual point value, the lot shall be rejected. Point computation for the lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

4.4.3.1 Demerit point computation.

Total points scored in sample × 3600 = Points per 100 square yards Contracted width of cloth (inches) × total yards inspected

4.4.3.2 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows.

a. For defects up to and including 3 inches in any dimension – one point.

b. For defects exceeding 3 inches but not exceeding 6 inches in any dimension – two points

c. For defects exceeding 6 inches but not exceeding 9 inches in any dimension – three points

d. For defects exceeding 9 inches in any dimension – four points.

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in which they occur.

e. Baggy, ridgy or way cloth

f. Non-uniformity of shade (poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or cloudy)

g. Excessive neppiness

4.4.3.3 Visual examination for shade, hand and finish. The sample unit shall be a 4-inch by

20-inch swatch of cloth.

4.4.3.3.1 Cloth. The cloth shall be evaluated for shade match, appearance and hand. The finished cloth shall be viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (+ 200) Kelvin, with illumination of 100 (+20) foot candles and under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (+200) Kelvin to determine if it is a good match to its respective standard sample.

4.4.3.4 Examination for back marking and compliance with the Wool Products Labeling Act. The examination for back marking and compliance with the Wool Products Labeling Act shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655 (see 6.2).

4.5 Finished cloth tests. The cloth shall be tested as specified in Table II. The finished cloth shall be conditioned as directed in ASTM D1776. The sample unit shall be 3-1/2 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (sample units)

800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3

22,001 and over 5

All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

TABLE II. Finished cloth tests.

Characteristics Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Fiber content (finished cloth) (min.) 3.6 AATCC 20A Fiber length (worsted wool) (inches) 3.6 ASTM D519 Fiber Fineness 3.6 ASTM D2130 Width (inches) (min.) 3.6.1 ASTM D3774 Weight (oz./yd.2) (min.)

3.6 ASTM D3776, Option C

Yarn ply Warp 3.6 Visual 1/ Filling 3.6 Visual 1/ Yarn Worsted Count Warp (min.) 3.6 ASTM D1907 Filling (min.) 3.6 ASTM D1907 Yarns per inch (min.)

Warp 3.6 ASTM D3775 Filling 3.6 ASTM D3775 Colorfastness to: (min.)

Dry cleaning 3.6 AATCC 132 2/ Crocking Dry 3.6 AATCC 8 3/ Wet 3.6 AATCC 8 3/ Perspiration 3.6 AATCC 15 4/

TABLE II. Finished cloth tests - continued.

Characteristics Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Light (after 40 hours) 3.6 AATCC 16, Option 1 or 3 5/ Breaking strength (min. lbs.)

Warp 3.6 ASTM D5034 Filling 3.6 ASTM D5034 Tearing strength (min. lbs.)

Warp 3.6 ASTM D1424 Filling 3.6 ASTM D1424 Dimensional stability-Warp and Filling (max. %)

Dry cleaning 3.6 AATCC 158 Steaming 3.6 AATCC 158 6/ Wrinkle Recovery Test (min.) 3.6 AATCC-128 Weave 3.6 Visual 1/ Abrasion (min.) 3.6 ASTM D4966 Option 2 7/ Pilling (min.) 3.6 ASTM D3511 pH 3.6 AATCC 81

1/ One determination per sample unit and the results reported as “pass” or “fail”.

2/ The specimen will be evaluated for color change using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure

1.

3/ The AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 shall apply.

4/ The specimen will be evaluated for color change using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure1.

Only the stain on the wool fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2.

5/ The specimen shall be exposed to Option 1 for 40 hours or Option 3 for 170 kilojoules.

The specimen shall be rated for color change using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.

6/ A specimen of 22 inches x 22 inches shall be hot pressed at 325oF (±4.00F) for 25 seconds, vacuumed for 5 seconds, and cooled for 30 minutes. Measurement from each of 3 specimens shall be taken from the mark size of 18 inches x 18 inches. As an alternative, a similar Steam Test Method from ITG-Burlington Finishing is acceptable.

7/ Five specimens of the test cloth and one specimen of the standard sample shall be used concurrently.

4.5.1 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure. (See 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.5) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this specification is intended for use in the manufacture of uniform items for wear by male and female personnel of the United States Air Force (USAF).

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this specification.

b. Type of cloth required (see 3.2).

c. Applicable shade standard sample (see 3.2.1).

d. When pilot lot inspection is required (see 3.1 and 4.2).

e. When required, yard-by-yard examination (see 4.4.3 through 4.4.3.4).

f. When toxicity testing is required a lab report or historical data shall be submitted that material meets the requirement. (see 4.5.1).

g. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the

Government activity responsible for conducting the pilot lot inspection program

h. Packaging required (see 5.1)

6.3 Pilot lot. When pilot lot inspection (see 3.1) is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be pilot lot sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.2. Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for pilot lot inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or tests, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.4 Informational requests. For access to information such as purchase descriptions, standard shade samples, etc. go to Defense Logistics Agency Troop Support, Clothing and Textile website for their Specifications/Patterns/Drawing Request Form, http://www.troopsupport.dla.mil/Portal/sreqfrm.aspx. Complete the request form and then submit form. Requests to use equivalent materials and/or components or to make changes to the purchase description should be sent to the contracting officer for the approval by the military services.

6.5 Source of supply. Point of contact at Sears, Roebuck and Company is J. Graf, phone number 847-286-8952, fax 847-286-5991 for the Sears’ Fabric Defect Kit.

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Cloth, Dress Clothing

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force-11 Air Force Uniform Office (AFUO)

AFLCMC/WNUV-TAC

Area B, Building 63 1901 Tenth St.

Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, OH 45433-7605 http://www.troopsupport.dla.mil/Portal/sreqfrm.aspx