Attachment 003 - 11-PD 20017USMC PTU Short Draft.pdf

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Physical Training Uniform
Solicitation number
M67854-21-R-1804
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This is a draft purchase description for a Marine Corps Physical Training Uniform. The document specifies requirements for a PT short including materials, components, patterns, construction, workmanship, inspection, and packaging. Key details are that the PT short shall be a mid-length athletic style short made of moisture wicking knit fabric in Marine Olive Drab Green. It must have mesh side panels, zipper pockets, reflective heat transfer graphics, and meet detailed dimensional and testing requirements. The document provides construction details and defines defects and inspection sampling plans. It is intended to communicate requirements for a PT short to potential contractors in advance of a planned solicitation for physical training uniforms.

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11-PD 20017USMC

(DATE)

INITIAL

DRAFT PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

SHORT: PHYSICAL TRAINING UNIFORM

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Marine Corps and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

MARCORSYSCOM

2200 Lester Street

Quantico, VA 22134

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to

USMC_STDZ_@usmc.mil. .

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

11-PD 20017USMC (DRAFT)

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Physical Training Uniform (PTU) Short. The PT Short is intended for wear by Marine Corps (USMC) personnel.

1.2 Schedule of sizes. The PT Short is furnished in the following sizes (see 6.2):

Schedule of sizes

Size XX Small X Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XXXX- Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50198 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester- Covered

A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking) (Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENCE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 LABEL: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM 61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After home Laundering AATCC TM 143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated

Home Laundering AATCC TM 150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Color Staining https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://quicksearch.dla.mil/

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manual are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Table for Inspection of Attributes (DoD Adopted)

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or http://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 Standard Test Method for Sewing Threads

ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be as specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The PT Short shall be a mid-length athletic style short, shell in Marine Olive Drab (OD) Green 522, and shall have wicking and anti-odor treatments. The waist shall have a width of 1 inch, 2 buttonholes to insert the drawstring. The tunnel opening for the drawstring shall be on the inside of the waist. Each side of the PT Short shall have a mesh knit side panel inserts, 6 1/2 inch welt zipper pockets, and 1-3/4 inch vents at the bottom and a liner. The lower left leg shall feature a reflective heat transfer eagle, globe, and anchor (EGA) and striping (see figure 4).

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the PT Short shall be, Marine Olive Drab (OD) Green 522, knit with antimicrobial and fiber moisture management properties.

The material shall conform to the Fabric Salient Characteristic Requirements in listed in 6.2.

https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.5.2 Side Panel Insert. The breathable side panel knit of the PT Short shall be polyester mesh knit in black and Fabric Salient Characteristic Requirements in 6.2. The material have a durable treatment with anti-microbial and moisture management finish.

3.5.3 Liner material. The PT Short liner material shall be knit in Black color with antimicrobial and fiber moisture management properties and conform to the Fabric Salient Characteristic Requirements in 6.2.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Pocketing. Pocketing material shall be the basic material for the PT Short.

3.6.2 Waistband elastic. The elastic for the waistband shall be 1 inch knitted elastic, 35 percent elastic 65 percent polyester, elongation 120 percent ±10 percent, finished picks/inch 50, warp and fill 1/150 textured polyester, elastic element 34 gauge extruded latex The color shall be natural, unbleached, or dyed black.

3.6.2.1 Draw cord. The polyester knitted round draw cord shall be on the inside of the waist and shall be a good shade match to the basic material. The draw cord end shall be knotted 1 inch from end to prevent raveling

3.6.2.2 Slide fastener. Slide fastener shall be a non-separating with an automatic lock slider, square tapered tab pull, No. 3 continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the coil, tape, and slide fastener square tapered pull shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed tape shall show a colorfastness rating of 4.0 to laundering after 5 launderings when evaluated using the Table VI.

3.6.3 Thread. The thread shall be polyester core polyester covered, Tex 27 is used for single needle operations as well as the needles of the overlock machines and Tex 24 used for the loopers for the overlock and coverstitch machines conforming to A-A-50199 Type II. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The thread shrinkage shall be less than 3 percent when tested using ASTM D204 in Table VI.

3.6.3.1 Thread (gimp) for reinforcement buttonholes and bartacks. The thread (gimp) for reinforcing the buttonholes and bartacks shall be soft finish, Tex 40 of A-A-50198 Type I. The color shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6.3.2 Color. The color of the thread shall have a good match to the basic material.

3.6.4 Reflective Material. The photometric performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance with ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel and Headwear. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements prior to test exposure and photometric measurements after the following test exposures: abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have a minimum initial level of reflectivity of 300 cd/lux/m2 and have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 after 50 wash cycles following AATCC 135 Test Method (1), IV, (A)i specified in Table VI. A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement (see 4.6).

3.6.4.1 Flaking and delamination after launderings. Reflective tapes shall show no signs of flaking, peeling or delaminating after 50 launderings in accordance with AATCC TM 135, (1), IV, (A)I specified in Table VI. A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement (see 4.6).

3.6.4.2 Reflective back leg stripes. The back of the PT Short shall have silver reflective striping conforming to the specified dimensions. The reflective shall be placed according to the the markers on the pattern. (Figures 6 and 7)

3.6.4.3 Reflective front left USMC Logo. The reflective USMC Logo shall be positioned on the lower left front of the PT Short, size and dimensions specified as 2.89 inches x 3 inches shall be placed as indicated with the marks on the pattern. (Figures 4 and 5)

3.6.5 Labels. Each PT Short shall have size and appropriate identification/instruction labels. All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements. Additional testing shall be as specified in Table VI. The label shall have good colorfastness to laundering after 3 launderings when tested in accordance with AATCC TM 61.

3.6.5.1 Combination size/identification/instruction label. The heat transfer label for the All Purpose Shorts shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type III, Class14. The identification/size/care heat transfer label for Type I shall be placed 1 1/2 inches down from inside waistband seam, the label shall be sized from approximately 1-7/10 inches width by 2-2/5 inches long, and shall contain the following text for washing instructions:

USMC

MEN’S

MADE IN USA

SIZE

SHELL: (FIBER CONTENT)

LINER: (FIBER CONTENT)

SIDE PANEL: (FIBER CONTENT)

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH LIKE

COLORS

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTNER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

3.6.5.2 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tags shall be standard bleached sulfate that has a basic weight of 100 pounds.

The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each item by a fastener or the bar code and UPC code tags may be attached as a sticker to the outside of individual poly bag. The tags shall be clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The barcoding element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN).

There shall be a 12-digit UPC number assigned for all NSNs by the contracting activity. The initials UPC must appear beneath the code. The barcode for NSN and UPC type shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or placed on all shipping cartons on which the NSN appears.

3.7 Patterns. Government patterns that show directional lines, size, and notches for the proper assembling of the parts of the PT Short will be furnished by the Government (see 6.5). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance.

TABLE I. Seam allowances.

Seam Allowance Pattern 3/8 inch For side panel, front/back rises, inseam, pocket, vent, liner inseam, liner rises and liner crotch gusset 3/4 inch For shell and liner hem 1/4 inch For Liner attachment to waist and side seams of ID pouch pocket

3.7.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the PT Short shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated.

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature

CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts

A. Basic Material

Front PDXXX-FRONT 2 Back PDXXX-BACK 2

Zipper Facing PDXXX-ZIPPER_FACING 2 Pocket Bag PDXXX-POCKET_BAG 4

B. Mesh Material

Side Panel PDXXX-SIDE_PANEL 2

C. Liner Material Liner PDXXX-LINER 2

Crotch Gusset PDXXX-CROTCH_GUSSET 1 ID Pocket PDXXX-ID_POCKET 1

3.8 Construction. The PT Short shall be constructed in conformance with figures 1-5; the stitches per inch specified in Table V shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the PT Short shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished PT Short.

3.8.1 Stitches and seams. Stitching and seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the PT Short. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.8.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.8.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the end of the stitching. When making the repair, the ends of the stitches are not required to be backstitched.

b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the defective area; continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

3.8.1.2 Types 401, 406, 502, 503 and 504 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished PT Short. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.10.1.1.1 a and b, except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.

3.8.1.3 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch.

The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301. Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted

3.8.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

3.8.2 Buttonhole. There shall be two vertical buttonhole shall be straight cut, purl or whip type, and the finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 inch. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused within 1/8 inch of the tack. The buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made, and correctly positioned.

3.8.3 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table III. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching (see Table IV).

Table III. Bartack Placement.

Bartack Numbers

Bartack Location Direction Size of Tack

Stitches per Tack

# of Bartacks

Total #

1 Top of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 1/2" 21-28 1 2

2 Bottom of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 1/2" 21-28 1 2

3 Top of vent centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 1/2" 21-28 1 2

3.9 Manufacturing operation requirements. The PT Short shall be manufactured in accordance with the stitch and seam requirements specified in Table IV. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or loose.

TABLE IV. Stitches and seam requirements.

Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

301 LSq-2(B) 10-12 301 SSc-2(B) 10-12 301 SSs-1 10-12 506 SSa-1 16-18

401 EFA-2 10-12

406 EFa-2 12-14

502 or 503 or 504 SSa-1 8-10

3.10 Finished measurements. The PT Short shall conform to the finished measurements (given in inches in Table V).

TABLE V. Finished measurements, PT Short (inches).

Size 1/2 Waist (relaxed)

(A)

1/2 Hip (B)

1/2 Thigh

(C)

1/2 Leg Open

(D)

Inseam (E)

Front Rise (F)

Back Rise (G)

Side Seam Pocket Open

(H)

2X-Small 10-1/4 17 11-1/4 10 8 ¼ 11-1/2 14-1/2 6-1/2

X-Small 11-3/4 18-1/2 12 10-3/4 8 ¼ 12 15 6-1/2

Small 13-1/4 20 12-3/4 11-1/2 8 ¼ 12-1/2 15-1/2 6-1/2

Medium 14-3/4 21-1/2 13-1/2 12-1/4 8 ¼ 13 16 6-1/2

Large 16-1/4 23 14-1/4 13 8 ¼ 13-1/2 16-1/2 6-1/2

X-Large 18-1/4 25 15-1/4 14 8 ¼ 14-1/8 17-1/8 6-1/2

Size 1/2 Waist (relaxed)

(A)

1/2 Hip (B)

1/2 Thigh

(C)

1/2 Leg Open

(D)

Inseam (E)

Front Rise (F)

Back Rise (G)

Side Seam Pocket Open

(H)

2X-Large 20-1/4 27 16-1/4 15 8 ¼ 14-3/4 17-3/4 6-1/2

3X-Large 22-1/4 29 17-1/4 16 81/4 15-3/8 18-3/8 6-1/2

4X-Large 24-1/4 31 18-1/4 17 8-1/4 16 19 6-1/2

TOL. ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

Liner Finished Dimensions

Size ½ Leg Opening (I) Inseam (J) ID Pocket Length (K) 2X-Small 6-3/4 4 3

X-Small 7-1/4 4 3

Small 7-3/4 4 3

Medium 8-3/8 4 3

Large 9-1/8 4 3

X-Large 9-7/8 4 3

2X-Large 10-5/8 4 3

3X-Large 11-3/8 4 3

4X-Large 12-1/8 4 3

TOLERANCE ±1/4 ±1/4 ±1/4

3.10.1 Methods of measurement. The PT Short shall be laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows: (see Figure 8 for a visual of how to measure the PT Short)

(A) 1/2 Waist (relaxed) Measure across top of Shorts waistband with elastic relaxed.

(B) 1/2 Hip Measure across front of Shorts at the bottom of the side seam pocket, bartack to bartack

(C) 1/2 Thigh Measure straight across the front starting at the crotch point, from folded edge to folded edge

(D) 1/2 Leg Opening With side vent closed, measure straight across front hem of the Shorts, folded edge to folded edge

(E) Inseam Measure along inseam from crotch point to bottom of hem

(F) Front Rise Measure along front rise seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam

(G) Back Rise Measure along back rise seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam

(H) Side Seam Pocket Opening

(I) 1/2 Leg Opening Liner

(J) Inseam Liner

Measure from bartack to bartack of side seam pocket opening

Measure straight across front hem of the liner, folded edge to folded edge.

Measure along liner inseam from crotch to bottom of hem

3.11 Workmanship. The finished PT Short shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each PT Short shall be examined; draw cord shall be loosely knotted and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. The PT Short containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in Table VIII. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1.

The sample size will be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable purchase document.

4.3.1.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table VI shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table VI shall be followed. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified.

Component Lot size unit Sample unit Thread Spool 3 each size Label Piece 3 each label

(K) ID Pocket Length

Measure along finished edge of pocket from waist joining seam to bottom of pocket bag

Slide fastener tape Piece 1 each size Reflective Sheet 1 each design

TABLE VI. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Thread Shrinkage 3.6.3 ASTM D204

Label Colorfastness to laundering 3.6.5 AATCC TM 61, 2A

Slide fastener Tape

Colorfastness to laundering 3.6.2.2 AATCC TM 61, 2A 1/

Reflective Flaking and delamination 3.6.4.2 AATCC TM 135 (1), IV, (A)i

Reflectivity 3.6.4.1 ANSI-107 AATCC TM 135 (1), IV, (A)i

1/ Only test one longest slide fastener tape in each size of the garment.

4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects. Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.3.3 End item testing. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished PT Short shall be examined in accordance with Table VII and shall have a rating of 4.0 or greater after five launderings. This requirement shall be applicable to all seams.

4.3.3.1 Reflective durability requirements. After application of the symbols on the garments, an additional test shall be performed to ensure proper application of the transfers. The garments shall be washed at a water temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit with a mild detergent for fifty cycles with the machine set on a normal/cotton sturdy cycle. Three samples of each garment shall be tested in accordance with AATCC TM 150 (1), IV, (A)i specified in Table VII. A visual inspection shall be performed after the fifty cycles. There shall be no evidence of flaking, peeling or delaminating. A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement (see 4.6).

4.3.3.2 End item dimensional stability after laundering. End item shall not shrink or extend more than 5 percent in length after 5 launderings in accordance with AATCC TM 150 (1), VI, (A)i specified in Table VII.

TABLE VII. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Seam Appearance 4.3.3 AATCC TM 143 (1), IV, (A)i

Reflective durability after 50 washes (flaking and delaminating)

4.3.3.1 AATCC TM 150 (1), IV, (A)i

Dimensional stability after 5 launderings 4.3.3.2 AATCC TM 150 (1), IV, (A)i

4.3.4 End item dimensional inspection. In accordance with 3.10, finished PT Short shall meet the measurements in Table V when measured as specified in 3.10.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

4.4 End item visual examination. Finished PT Short shall be examined for PT Short visual defects in accordance with the defects listed in Table VIII. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item examinations of PT Short, dimensional examination, and packaging inspection shall be performed in accordance with AQL 2.5.

TABLE VIII. Defects.

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A Minor

B

a. Any hole *

b. Abrasion damaging the fabric *

c. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole.

d. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside of PT Short *

e. Needle chew that might develop into hole *

f. Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn *

g. Needle holes in outer fabric X

Shaded Parts

a. Any shaded parts on outside of PT Short *

b. Color not as specified X

Cleanliness

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of PT Short X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of PT Short X

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of PT Short or two or more markings not removed

X

Components

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein) *

b. Any component part omitted (not classified herein) *

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A Minor

B

c. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

d. Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full to the degree that serviceability or appearance is affected.

Bartacks

a. One bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

b. Two bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

c. Three or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

d. Any bartack not specified length X

Seams and Stitching

a. Seam distorted, twisted, pleated, or puckered *

b. Any part of PT Short caught in unrelated operation or stitching *

c. Thread(s) used on outside of PT Short not same shade of not satisfactorily matching shade of PT Short

X

d. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked

X

e. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of PT Short X

f. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

X

g. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified

h. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch 2/ X

i. Open seam over 1/4 inch 2/ X

j. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 in inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

X

l. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of PT Short 3/

m. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of PT Short 3/ X

Minor

A Minor

B

n. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of PT Short 3/

X

o. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of PT Short 3/ X

Seams and Stitching – Continued

p. Run offs more than ½ inch but not more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

q. Run offs more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

r. Seam or stitch not specified type X

s. Loose tension resulting in loose seam X

t. Loose tension on edge or top stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread

X

u. Tight tension 5/ X

v. Stitches per inch on major portion of PT Short one or two less than specified

X

w. Stitches per inch on major portion of PT Short three less than specified X

x. Stitches per inch on major portion of PT Short four or more less than specified

X

y. Stitches per inch on major portion of PT Short more than specified X

z. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more

X

aa. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced X

bb. Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability

X

cc. Topstitching not finishing as specified X

dd. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch X

Reflective Heat Transfer

a. Heat transfer stripe applied incorrectly *

b. Heat transfer stripe placement not as specified *

c. Heat transfer USMC symbol applied incorrectly *

d. Heat transfer USMC symbol placement not as specified *

Labels

a. Label missing, incorrect, or illegible X

b. Label positioned or attached incorrectly X

Minor

A Minor

B

c. Heat transfer Label applied incorrectly *

d. Heat transfer Label placement not as specified *

e. Label text peeling *

Pockets

a. Pockets not similar in shape X

b. Pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch X

d. Key pocket not constructed or positioned correctly X

Waistband

a. PT Short twisted or pleated by stitching forming waistband X

b. Distance between stitch lines on waistband less than 7/8 inch or more than 1 1/8 inch

X

c. Waistband stitching varying more than 1/8 inch X

d. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed X

e. Waistband curling X

g. Drawstring missing or not functioning X

PT Short Legs

a. Hem uneven by more than 1/8 inch X

Dimensions

a. Measurement of item not as specified X

Bar Codes and Packaging

a. Bar code or UPC code omitted or not readable by scanner

b. Human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible

c. Bar code not visible on folded, packaged item

Bar Codes and Packaging – Continued

d. Bar code causes damage to the item

e. Any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order

* Defects marked with an asterisk are major defects if they affect serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability.

1/ If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is non weakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein.

2/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge or top stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.

3/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Run offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams.

5/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.

4.5 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.6 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The PT Short is intended for wear by USMC personnel.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Sizes, required (see 1.3).

c. Quantity required.

d. When a first article sample is required (see 3.1).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

f. Issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

g. Conformance inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

h. Fabric Salient characteristics requirements (Table 1 in the Physical Training Uniform SOW).

i. Graphic placement and size approval

6.4 Subject term (key word) listing.

Short

PTU

FIGURE 1. Front view PT Short and Liner.

FIGURE 2a. Side vent detail PT Short.

FIGURE 2b. Pocket detail PT Short.

FIGURE 3. Back view PT Short and liner.

FIGURE 4. EGA Logo front left leg heat transfer graphic.

FIGURE 5. PT Short Reflective EGA Logo Placement.

FIGURE 6. Leg stripes heat transfers.

FIGURE 7. PT Short Reflective Leg Stripes Placement.

FIGURE 8. PT Short, How to measure.

FIGURE 8. Method of Measure.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC

Review activities:

Navy – MC

DLA – CT

1. SCOPE
Schedule of sizes
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENCE SPECIFICATIONS
AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ANSI/ASQ)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
3. REQUIREMENTS
TABLE I. Seam allowances.
TABLE II. List of pattern parts.
3.9 Manufacturing operation requirements. The PT Short shall be manufactured in accordance with the stitch and seam requirements specified in Table IV. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching...
Pattern
Seam Allowance
4. VERIFICATION
TABLE VI. Component tests.
TABLE VII. End item testing.
Test Method
Characteristic
Requirement
Test Method
Requirement
Characteristic
Component
5. PACKAGING
6. NOTES

File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .