Att 1 MIL-DTL-28950C Blues Officers Blouse MILSPEC.pdf

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a blue dress coat, with belt.

1.2. Classification. The coats will be of one type in the

following sizes as specified (see 6.2).

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

8 October 1997

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-28950B(MC)

26 July 1994

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, MAN'S - DRESS; BLUE (OFFICER'S)

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;

distribution is unlimited.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2023-02-06T22:31Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

Schedule of sizes

Short Regular Large Extra Large

36 36 36 36 38 38 38 38 40 40 40 40 42 42 42 42

44 44 44 46 46

1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool Under Collar Cloth A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed)

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, or Polyester Blend V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple

(Plastic) DDD-L-20 - Labels: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage

(General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-DTL-3461 - Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-3738 - Cloth, Elastique, Wool MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-L-15040 - Label, Garment (Woven, Rayon) MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-F-15065 - Coat Fronts MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-751 - Stitch, Seams, and Stitching

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men's Dress

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.)

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool gabardine, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176, 10.6 ounces, blue, shade 2312. An optional fabric is cloth, wool, elastique, conforming to type II of MIL-C-3738, 16 ounces, blue, shade 2309.

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat, standard belt, pocket flaps, buttonhole tab for sword slit, collar and vent; for making the belt fastener; and for the facing of the inside pocket shall be cloth, rayon, twill, 3.7 ounces, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The color of the cloth shall be black, shade 2604 (see 6.3).

3.3.3 Under collar cloth. The sword slit patch and collar tab shall be made of wool flannel, under collar cloth, conforming to A-A-50067. The color of the cloth shall be of an approved shade to closely match the basic material of the coat (see 6.3).

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

3.3.4 Bias binding. The binding for the upper edge of the

front pockets, the back edge of the facings, the raw edge of the button turnup, and the raw edge of seam allowances shall be bias-cut out of the lining material specified in 3.3.2. The bias binding for the seams, facings and bottom turnup shall be 3/4 inch wide, and for the top edge of pockets shall be 1-1/8 inches wide. The binding shall have sized edges.

3.3.5 Polyester twill. The material for making the inside

breast pocket, stay pieces for the front pockets, stays for the armhole and shoulder seams and the lower edge of armhole, inside pocket support, collar interlining, and the reinforcement pieces for the upper front pocket snap fasteners shall be cloth, polyester twill, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The polyester twill shall be black. The requirements for non-fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply.

3.3.6 Belt interlining. The material for interlining the

standard belt shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, natural color, conforming to type I of A-A-50186.

3.3.7 Collar, interlining. The material for interlining the

collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, a laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the finished laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard.

3.3.8 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to type XI of MIL-C-15065, except that the cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth and the polyester twill cloth for the stays shall be dyed black.

The dyed polyester twill shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only. The dyeing of the cotton warp, hair filling cloth shall be accomplished with a selected direct dye and the dyed cloth shall be after treated, preferably with copper sulfate to meet the requirements as specified herein. The dyed cotton warp, hairwool filling cloth shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.8.1. Fusible for coat fronts and back vent (alternate). The coat front and vent may be fused using a woven twill cloth conforming to type II, style B, class 1 of MIL-C-44296 in black or charcoal gray shade.

3.3.8.1.1 Chest pieces. Construction and application of chest piece and required components shall be the same as required in MIL-C-15065. Components requiring haircloth are the chest

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

pieces, top front reinforcement pieces and wedge pieces. The flannel felt shall be the same as stated in MIL-C-15065, paragraphs 3.3.4.1 and 3.3.4.2. The polyester twill cloth required for stays and coverings shall be the same as stated in MIL-C-15065, paragraph 3.3.3. As an alternate, needle pouch fabric in lieu of flannel is permitted.

3.3.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type

I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.10 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.11 Hanger braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be

cotton or rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength 50 pounds, color black conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371.

3.3.12 Tape, cotton. The cotton tape shall conform to type II of A-A-52071; 1/4 inch wide for armholes, back vent and waist seam and 3/8 inch wide for front edges of coat.

3.3.13 Thread.

3.3.13.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to

A-A-50196. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No. A for all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No.

B and ticket No. F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads, respectively; and ticket No. O for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply of A-A-50196.

3.3.13.2. Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to

A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching, overedge stitching, and for belt and belt fastener buttonholes; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and machine tacking armholes. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199 ticket No. 50, 2 or 3-ply may be used for seaming and ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used for overedging.

3.3.13.3. Synthetic thread. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed.

3.3.13.4. Color and colorfastness. All threads shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043, (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968) except cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes may be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good fastness to light.

3.3.14 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 showing good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.15 Buttons.

3.3.15.1. Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, officer design, 27-line and 40-line, regular shank conforming to type I, style 4, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. Ring toggles for securing buttons to pockets shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.15.2. Sewing hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to type II, class D, style 4, 22-line, style 20, 34-line, and style 25, 16-line of V-B-871. The color shall be white for the collar and black, shade BT, cable No. 62001 for the rest of the coat (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966).

3.3.16 Fasteners, snap. The snap fasteners for the upper

pockets and flaps shall be brass, black japanned finish or black chemical finish in accordance with MIL-F-495, followed by clear lacquer coating, round or square style, rolled edge, size 1/0, sew-on type.

3.3.17 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for

closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish, or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 1.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

3.3.17.1. Closure finish. All surface and edges of the hook and eye shall be clean, smooth, and free from burrs, tool marks, sharp edges and roughness. The hook and eye shall be thoroughly and completely lacquered with the best available quality of black japanned lacquer. The dry lacquer film shall be continuous, level, adherent, free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions that may affect appearance or serviceability. All apertures of the finished lacquered hook and eye shall be completely open and free of any lacquer film or black chemical finish.

3.3.18 Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label and size label conforming to DDD-L-20 and a woven instruction label conforming to MIL-L-15040 and the following. The coat is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning.

3.3.18.1. Identification label. The identification label shall be type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be as follows:

Nomenclature:

Contract number:

Name of contractor:

Wool Product Act information:

NOTE: Size of character for "Name of contractor" shall be a minimum 8 point (approximately 3/32 inch).

3.3.18.2. Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S (short), R (regular), L (large), XL (extra large), as shown by the following example:

40 R

3.3.18.3. Woven instruction label. The woven instruction label shall conform to size C of MIL-L-15040. The content and format shall be as shown in Figure 2. The letters for the caption shall be not less than 5/32 inch in height and all other letters and figures shall not be less than 1/8 inch in height.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

3.4. Design. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design

shown on Figures 3, 4 and 5, a five-button, single breasted, quarter or fully lined coat with separate belt, having a skirt-type front with side body pieces, waist seam and waist darts, upper patch pockets and lower bellows pockets with worked eyelets for detachable insignia buttons and with flaps to button, a four-piece back with lined vent, ornamental sleeve cuffs, one inside breast pocket with vertical piped opening, shoulder straps to button, and a stand-up collar with single hook and eye for front closure. Coats shall have a sword slit in waist seam at left side with a lined tab on inside to button.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished to the

contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The contractor's working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide 3/16 inch allowance for seams at the top and front edges of coat, and for pocket flap and shoulder strap seams; 3/4 inch allowance for side seams; 5/8 inch allowance for center back seam and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the

materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated below:

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

Material: Cloth, cotton buckram (single ply)

1Collar interlining37

Material: Cloth, buckram, cotton (double textured;

double ply)

Inside breast pocket Stay, snap fastener Stay, upper pocket Stay, lower pocket Collar interlining

Material: Polyester twill

Front Yoke Top sleeve Under sleeve Pocket flap, upper Pocket flap, lower Vent lining Sword slit tab lining Inside breast pocket facing Collar lining Belt lining (standard belt)

Material: Cloth, rayon lining

Front, upper Front, lower Facing, right Side body (front) Facing, left Center back Side back Top sleeve Under sleeve Sleeve cuff Collar (outer ply) Shoulder strap, top ply Shoulder strap, under ply Pocket, upper Pocket, lower Pocket flap, upper Pocket flap, lower Belt (standard) Belt (optional) Sword slit tab

Material: Basic

NO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

Sleeve cuff marker46

Marker

Finished pocket shaper, upper Finished pocket shaper, lower Finished pocket flap shaper, upper Finished pocket flap shaper, lower Left vent shaper

Shapers

Sword slit patch Collar tab

Material: Cloth, flannel, wool

1Belt interlining (standard belt)38

NO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

3.6. Construction. The coats shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. The stitch, seam and

stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raw edge without cutting the material.

3.6.1.1. Tacking and backstitching. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break line not less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.2. Shade markings. The component parts of the coat cut

from one piece of basic material, and lining material, including pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Cut fronts, yoke, collar and vent lining parts of the coat and facing for inside pocket from one piece of rayon lining material. All other rayon lining parts may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut from ends, the shade of the linings shall match each other. The belt lining shall be cut 2-1/4 inches wide, and the belt fastener shall be cut 1-5/8 inches wide. Bias binding shall be cut 3/4 inch wide for edge of bottom turnup, back edge of facings, and for edges of seam allowances and 1-1/8 inches wide for top edge of pockets.

c. Cut all wool or polyester/wool parts of the coat, including belts, from one piece of basic material, except the following parts may be cut from ends, but when so cut, the parts shall harmonize with the shade of coat: under ply of shoulder straps, sword slit buttonhole tab, belt loops and belt keeper may be banded 1 inch wide.

b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns. The straight of the cloth indicates the warp direction.

a. Cut coats in strict accordance with patterns furnished.

Cutting.1

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TYPE

STCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

b. The use of tickets with metal fastening devices or sewn-on tickets is prohibited on the rayon lining (see 3.6.2.).

a. Mark all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining materials, and the pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the coat.

Shade marking.3

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns.

a. Replace at time of cutting any part containing damages, such as holes or seriously weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into holes.

Replacement of damaged parts.2

i. The use of drill holes is prohibited.

h. Dress the left vent in accordance with the shaper furnished.

g. Cut collar interlining in accordance with the pattern furnished.

f. Cut belt interlining on the straight 1-5/8 inches wide.

e. Cut polyester twill stays for armhole and shoulder seams and lower edge of armholes on the bias. Cut stays for armhole and shoulder seams and lower edge of armholes, 3/4 inch wide and 4-1/2 + 1/4 inches long for the shoulder and armhole seams and 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches long for the lower edge of the armhole.

Cutting. (cont'd)1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

AA10-14EFp-2301b. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, turn in the raw edges, and stitch 1/8 inch from each side, catching turned edges in the stitching to form a 1/2 to 5/8 inch wide band. Cut the fastener 6-1/2 inches long.

a. The belt fastener shall be made from a 1-5/8 inch wide strip of rayon lining material.

Finished appearance. The belt fastener shall finish 1/2 to 5/8 inch wide and shall finish smooth and flat without pleats, gathers, puckers or other distortions. The buttonhole shall be clean cut and well made to fit a 22-line sewing hole button. The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the fastener.

Make belt fastener (standard belt only) (see Figure 6).

AA28 per bartack

Bartackd. Cut the keeper 4-1/2 inches long, fold in half, end to end, and join the ends with a bartack across the width of the keeper. The finished keeper shall measure 2-1/8 + 1/8 inches from bartack to folded end.

c. Cut the loop for the left and right sides of the coat 5-1/2 inches and 3-1/2 inches long, respectively.

A (silk)

(silk)

12-16EFh-1406b. Fold the sides of the strip lengthwise towards the center, abutting the raw edges, and join the edges together with a covering stitch.

a. The belt loops and keeper shall be made from a 1 inch wide strip of basic material.

Finished appearance. The belt loops and keeper shall finish 1/2 inch wide and shall finish smooth and flat without pleats, gathers, puckers, or other distortions. The stitching shall be uniformly 1/8 inch from the finished edges.

Make belt loops and keeper.4

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

A (silk) or A

A (silk) or A

12-16SSa-1301d. Fold the end of the basic material in half lengthwise to the outside, and stitch across the width of the basic material 1/8 inch from the end.

c. Turn lining and basic materials back at the top and bottom unseamed edges of the belt and trim the interlining approximately 1-1/4 inch back from the end.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-1301b. Place the interlining material between the basic and lining materials and seam together uniformly 1/8 inch from upper and lower edges, with the raw edges of lining and basic materials turned in and caught in the stitching. The stitching shall extend from one end of belt to approximately 1-1/4 inches from the opposite end.

The lining shall be 1/16 inch back from the finished edge of belt.

a. The standard belt shall be made of one piece of basic material, lined with rayon lining and interlined with buckram.

Finished appearance. The belt shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, puckers, or raw edges. the pointed end of the belt shall be well formed with the turned in edges securely caught in the stitching. The buttonhole shall be clean cut and well made.

Make standard belt (see Figure 6).6

AA50 per button-hole

(incl.

tack)

Button-hole

c. Turn under one end of the fastener 1-1/2 inches and make a horizontal straight type buttonhole cut 5/8 inch long through the center of the turned under portion. the ends of the buttonhole shall be securely tacked.

Make belt fastener (standard belt only) (see Figure 6). (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

24/421 per button

101j. Securely sew one button at each mark. The button for the buckle end shall properly engage buttonhole in buckle end and shall be sewn through all plies of material. The button for the belt fastener shall be sewn through the lining and interlining only.

i. Mark location for sewing two 22-line sewing hole buttons to lining side of belt. The center of the button for the buckle end shall be 3-5/8 + 1/8 inches from the overedge stitched end of the belt. The button for the belt fastener shall be positioned in accordance with mark on pattern for each size belt. The buttons shall be securely sewn to the belt with the end of the stitching securely tacked.

AA50 per button-hole

(incl.

tack)

Button-hole

h. Make a horizontal straight type buttonhole, cut 5/8 inch long, midway between upper and lower finish edges of the belt to fit a 22-line sewing button, with the center of the buttonhole 1 + 1/8 inch from the buckle end, and with both ends of buttonhole securely tacked. The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the belt.

g. The finished width of the belt shall be 1-3/4 (+1/16, -1/8) inches.

The finished length of the belt for each size coat shall be as shown in Table II.

A

A

A

A

10-14

10-14

EFd-1

EFd-1 or

f. Close the opposite end of the belt with serge stitching.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSc-1301e. Turn the end of the belt, working out the point. Turn under the upper and lower edges of the lining, and seam the lining to the belt 1/8 inch from the folded edges of the belt closing the end and forming a point at the center of the finished end.

Make standard belt (see Figure 6).

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

e. Evenly trim the pointed end of the belt for proper turning. Turn the belt through the open end, completely working out the point.

AA12-16SSe-2 (a)

301d. Close the pointed end of the belt with a 1/4 inch seam along the slanted edges.

c. Spread open the seam and press the belt smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Fold the piece in half lengthwise forming two plies. Join the two plies together with a 3/8 inch seam.

a. The optional belt shall be made of one piece of basic material.

Finished appearance. The belt shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, puckers or raw edges. The pointed end of the belt shall be well formed. The buttonhole shall be clean cut and well made. The ends of the buttonhole shall be securely tacked.

Make optional one piece belt (see Figure 7).

m. Clean and press belt as specified in operation 7.k and 7.l.

A (silk)

A (silk)

28 per bartack

Bartackl. Turn under the raw end of the fastener 1/2 inch and bartack the fastener to the belt through all plies 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the folded edge.

The bartack shall be across the entire width of the fastener and shall be finely stitched in order to not have an objectionable appearance on the outside of the belt. The fastener, when buttoned, shall be smooth and flat without twisting or bulging.

k. Mark location for sewing belt fastener to lining side of belt, in accordance with mark on pattern for each size belt.

Make standard belt (see Figure 6).

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

k. Trim the ends of the stitching and remove all loose ends of thread from the belt. Remove all spots and stains from the belt without injury to the material.

24/46 per button (double thread)

Handj. Securely sew the button at the mark on the belt to properly engage buttonhole in buckle end. On the finished belt, the button shall be 3-5/8 + 1/8 inches from square end of belt.

i. Mark the location for sewing one 22-line sewing hole button to the underside of the belt. The button shall be sewn to the belt with the end of the stitching securely tacked.

F (silk)

B (silk)

60 per button-hole

(incl.

tack)

Button-hole

h. Make a horizontal eyelet end, taper-bar type buttonhole, cut 5/8 inch long, in the center of the belt.

The inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the buckle end of the belt.

The buttonhole shall be well worked over the gimp to fit a 22-line sewing hole button. The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside of the belt.

g. The finished width of the belt shall be 1-3/4 (+1/16, -1/8) inches.

The finished length of the belt for each size coat shall be as shown in Table II.

A (silk) -or-

A (silk)

A (silk) -or-

A (silk)

12-16OSf-1 (top and bottom edges) SSe-2 (b)

(pointe d end) SSc-1

(square end)

301f. Topstitch the belt uniformly 1/8 inch from top and bottom folded edges and seamed end, turning in the square end of the belt 1/4 inch and catching the turned-in portion of the stitching. The seam of the belt shall finish off center.

Make optional one-piece belt (see Figure 7). (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

A

C (silk)

21 per fastene r (min) 21 per fastene r (min)

3-4 (double thread) (not incl.

tack) or or

Hand

b. Sew the stud part of the snap fastener 3-1/2 to 3-3/4 inches from the folded edge of the belt on the outside. When stud part is sewn by hand, the stitching shall be tacked off with not less than two stitches.

A

A

A

A

21 per fastene r (min) 21 per fastene r (min)

3-4 (double thread) or or

Hand

a. Sew the socket part of the snap fastener to the inside point of the belt 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the point.

Finished appearance. The snap fasteners shall be securely attached to the belt. On the finished coat, the belt ends shall be fastened without misalignment or gap. On the standard belt, the fasteners shall be stitched through the interlining only.

On the optional belt, the stitching shall not show on the opposite side of the belt.

Attach snap fasteners.8

l. Place the belt keeper on the belt at the square end and secure by buttoning the end. Press the belt smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. Ends of the keeper shall be spread open and pressed flat on the underside at the center of belt.

Make optional one-piece belt (see Figure 7). (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

or A

(silk)

A or A

(silk)

12-16SSe-2 (b)

301d. Turn the flaps, working the edges, corners and point out completely.

Topstitch the flaps uniformly 1/8 inch from the seamed edges, working the lining back from the finished edge of the flaps.

A or A

(silk)

A or A

(silk)

10-14SSe-2 (a)

301c. Seam the lining to the basic material 3/16 inch from the side and bottom edges, evenly trimming the edges for proper turning.

A

A

A

A

21 per fastene r (min) 21 per fastene r (min)

3-4 (double thread) (not incl.

tack) or or

Hand

b. Securely sew the stud part of the snap fastener to the lower corners of the lining of the upper pocket flaps, through the small triangular shaped twill stay piece. On the finished flap, the fastener shall be midway between the side and bottom finished edges 3/8 to 1/2 inch back from the corners. When stud part is sewn by hand, the stitching shall be tacked off with not less than two stitches.

a. The pocket flaps shall be made of one ply of basic material, lined with rayon lining.

Finished appearance. The pocket flaps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges and shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket flap shaper. The seamed edges, the corners and point of the flaps shall be well worked out and the lining shall not be visible on the outside of the flaps. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, properly positioned, well worked over gimp to fit a 27-line insignia button, and the stitching shall be securely caught in the basic material. The ends of the gimp shall be pulled through to the underside of the buttonholes and the purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside of the flaps. The buttonholes shall be the cut-first type.

Make upper and lower pocket flaps.9

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

AA10-14SSe-1301b. Secure the pleat with a row of stitches 1/16 inch from top and bottom edges, respectively. Trim the lower corners of the pockets.

a. Form a vertical box pleat on the outside center of upper pockets with a heated creasing machine. The pleat shall be 1-1/2 inches wide.

Finished appearance. The binding shall be uniformly stitched and shall not be tight or full causing puckers, gathers, or pleats; the basic material and both edges of binding shall be securely caught in the stitching. The pleats shall be vertically centered and the folded side edges of the pleats shall be parallel. The pockets shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the pattern.

Make upper pockets.10

A (silk)

A (silk)

21 per bartack (min)

Bartacki. Securely bartack the end of buttonholes, and trim the ends of the gimp.

F (silk)

B (silk)

38 per button-hole (min) (not incl.

bartack

Button-hole

h. Make a vertical eyelet end, square- bar type buttonhole, cut 3/4 inch long through the center of each pocket flap, with the inside edge of the eyelet 5/8 + 1/8 inch above the center point.

A

A

A

A

8-10

8-10

EFd-1

EFd-1 or

g. Join the raw edges of the lining and flap together with overedge stitching.

f. Mark and trim top edge of flaps so that in the finished coat the length of the flaps at center point and sides shall conform to measurements shown in Table III.

e. Press the flaps smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

Make upper and lower pocket flaps.

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

or

Hand

l. Turn under the side and bottom edges of pocket at the marks and baste along the edges.

k. Mark the patch pocket in accordance with the pocket shaper and trim the lower corners of the pocket for better turning.

AA10-14BSc-1301j. Bind the upper edge of pockets with 1-1/8 inch wide binding, with the pleat closed and both edges of the binding turned under and caught in the stitching 1/16 inch from the inner folded edges of the binding.

i. Press pleat flat and smooth with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

Hopper301h. Baste the center of the pleat by machine.

AA10-14SSa-1301g. Form the pleat and seam across the top and bottom edges, respectively, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

AA10-14OSf-1301f. Fold the pocket in half lengthwise and stitch 1-1/2 inches from folded edge.

-or-

e. Turn under and crease the side and bottom edges of the pockets in a heated edge creasing machine.

AA10-14BSc-1301d. Bind the upper edge of the pockets with 1-1/8 inch wide bias binding, with the pleat closed and both edges of the binding turned under and caught in the stitching 1/16 inch from the inner folded edges of the binding.

-A6-8SSm-1103c. Tack the abutted edges of the pleat together on the inside of the pocket with blind stitching.

Make upper pockets. (cont'd)10

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

g. The pockets shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the finished pocket shaper.

f. Press entire pocket smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine, evenly creasing the edges.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16OSf-1301e. Trim the corners and turn pockets, working out the corners completely.

Turn under side and bottom edges of pockets to form bellows, and topstitch uniformly 1/8 inch from folded edges.

d. Spread open the corner seams of pockets and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Seam lower corners of pockets 3/8 inch from the serged edges.

AA10-14BSc-1301b. Bind the upper edge of the pockets with 1 to 1-1/8 inch wide bias binding, with both edges of binding turned under and caught in the stitching 1/16 inch from the inner folded edges of the binding.

AA6-10SSa-1503 or

a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of sides, bottom corners and bottom of pockets.

Finished appearance. The binding shall be uniformly stitched and shall not be tight or full causing puckers, gathers, or pleats. The basic material and both edges of binding shall be securely caught in the stitching. The pockets shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with finished pocket shaper.

Make lower pockets.11

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

A (silk)

21 per bartack (min)

Bartackf. Securely bartack the end of the buttonholes and trim the ends of the gimp.

e. The buttonhole shall be well worked over gimp and the ends of the gimp shall be pulled through to the underside of the buttonhole.

F (silk)

B (silk) per button-hole (min) (not incl.

bartack

Button-hole

d. Make a horizontal eyelet-end, square bar type buttonhole, cut 3/4 inch long, in each strap midway between the back and front edges and with the inside edge of the eyelet placed so that in the finished coat, the end of the shoulder strap will be 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the edge of the collar and with the purling to finish on the outside of the strap.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSe-2 (b)

301c. Turn the straps, working the seams out to the edges. Topstitch the strap uniformly 1/8 inch from the seamed edges.

AA10-14SSe-2 (a)

301b. Seam the two pieces together 3/16 inch from the edges at the front, back and collar end, evenly trimming all edges of the strap to proper turning.

a. The shoulder straps shall be made of two pieces of basic material.

Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, properly positioned, well worked over gimp to fit a 27-line insignia button, and caught in the basic material. The gimp shall be pulled through to the underside of the buttonhole, and the purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside of the shoulder straps.

Make shoulder straps.12

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

C

2-3Handd. Smooth fold the outer ply over the upper and lower edges of the interlining. Tack the portion of outer ply folded to inside at the lower edge to polyester twill interlining. Stitching shall not be through outer ply of collar.

AA10-14LSa-1301c. Lap the upper edge of polyester twill side of interlining approximately 1/2 inch on the inside of the upper edge of the collar outer ply and seam together 1/4 inch from the raw edge of interlining. The outer ply shall extend not less than 1 inch at each end of collar interlining.

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Seam polyester twill and cotton buckram together 1/8 to 1/4 inch from all edges and trim polyester twill even with edges of buckram.

a. The collar shall be made of one ply each of basic material, polyester twill, cotton buckram and lining.

Finished appearance. The completed collar shall finish smooth and flat without distortion. Edges shall be uniformly even. The edge stitching shall be uniform.

Make collar (see Figure 8).13

h. On the finished coat, the straps shall measure 2-3/8 + 1/8 inches wide at the armhole seam and shall taper to 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches at the eyelet end of the buttonhole.

g. Press the straps smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. The strap shall be uniform in shape and size in accordance with the pattern. The seams shall finish at the edges of the straps.

Make shoulder straps. (cont'd)12

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

Finished appearance. The upper curved edge of cuffs shall be properly formed and creased and the cuffs shall be uniformly stitched to sleeves.

Join cuffs to sleeve.15

b. Spread open the seam and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position the top and under sleeves with notches matching and join at the forearm with a 3/8 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeves at forearm.14

A (silk)

A (silk)

20 per eyelet (min)

Eyeleth. Make one eyelet through all plies at each end of the collar midway between top and bottom edges and 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches from finished ends. The eyelet shall be well worked with the purling on the outside of the collar and shall finish with a 1/8 inch diameter opening.

g. Turn collar lining at the seam to the inside of the collar and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

AA

(silk)

12-16LSa-1 (top edge) OSf-1 (ends)

301f. Lap approximately 1/2 inch of the top inside edge of the collar on the raw top edge of the collar lining with the lining face up. Stitch collar uniformly 1/8 inch on both front and top edges, catching the collar lining in the stitching at the upper edge.

The lining shall extend a minimum of 1 inch beyond each end of the collar.

C (silk)

2-3Hande. Fold the ends of outer ply to inside ends of interlining and tack to polyester twill with overcast stitching, turning under the upper and lower edges sufficiently so as not to be visible in the finished collar.

Make collar (see Figure 8). (cont'd)13

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

4-6

Hand or

a. Turn the cuff outlet to the inside, in accordance with notches, against the bottom end of sleeves, and baste along the turned edge of cuff.

Tack cuff to sleeve.17

b. Spread open the sleeve and cuff seams and press flat with a heated pressing iron. Trim ends of cuff if necessary.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Join the top sleeve to the under sleeve at the backarm with a 3/8 inch seam, catching the ends of the cuffs in the seam.

Finished appearance. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve at backarm.16

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16LSd-1301d. Position the cuffs at the mark on the sleeve and seam uniformly 1/8 inch from the upper edge of cuff.

c. Mark the sleeve in accordance with the pattern for positioning the cuffs, with notch matching the forearm seam line and with the lower raw edge of the sleeve and marker even.

4-6101b. Turn under the upper edge of the cuff, forming the finished curved edge in accordance with the shape of the pattern. Press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine, creasing the upper edge of cuff, or the cuff may be basted instead of pressed.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Fold the cuff lengthwise at the point with wrong side out. Tack the point 1/8 inch from the raw edges.

Turn cuff completely working out the point.

Join cuffs to sleeve. (cont'd)15

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

Finished appearance. The sleeve linings shall not be short, tight or twisted at bottom of sleeves.

Fell turnup of sleeve lining; press sleeves.

AA6-8SSa-1301b. Seam sleeve lining to top sleeve, backarm and forearm seam allowance respectively, commencing approximately 4 inches above finished bottom edge of sleeve and extending to approximately 6 inches below armhole edge at the backarm and approximately 4-1/2 inches below armhole edge at the forearm.

a. Properly position the sleeve lining on the sleeve with the upper edge of the lining extended 3/4 to 1 inch beyond the armhole edge of the sleeve.

Finished appearance. The sleeve linings shall be properly positioned and seamed to sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats.

Assemble sleeve and sleeve lining.19

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Position the top and under sleeve lining pieces in accordance with notches on pattern and join at the forearm and backarm, respectively, with a 3/8 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The sleeve lining shall be uniform in appearance, uniformly stitched an shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve linings.18

c. On the finished coat, the length of the cuff shall be 3-1/4 + 1/4 inches at the front and back creased edges and 6 + 1/4 inches at the point.

A4-6SSm-1103b. Tack the raw edge of the cuff to the body of the sleeve with blind stitching.

Tack cuff to sleeve. (cont'd)17

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

-or-

AA10-14OSf-1301a. Fold the yoke lining in accordance with the notches on the pattern to form a 1/2 inch wide pleat at the center back. Tack lengthwise along the pleat in line with the notches for a distance of 1 to 1-1/2 inches at the top end.

Finished appearance. The pleat shall be uniform in width and shall finish smooth and flat without puckers or pleats.

Make center pleat in yoke lining.22

AA10-14EFb-1301a. Hem the bottom edge of the yoke and front linings, respectively, with the raw edge turned under and caught in stitching 1/16 inch from the folded upper edge of the hem.

Finished appearance. The hem shall be uniformly stitched, uniform in width, and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats. The hem shall be 3/8 + 1/8 inch wide.

Hem yoke and front lining.21

c. Turn sleeves and assemble in pairs. The lower half of sleeve may be pressed smooth and flat, creasing at the backarm and forearm. The backarm crease shall be on the backarm seam.

(silk)

C (silk)

(silk)

C (silk)

6-8

8-10

EFc-1 (b) or

Hand

b. Fell the folded edge of sleeve lining to turnup of the cuff with blind stitching. The bottom of sleeve lining may be felled without basting.

4-6

Hand or

a. Pull sleeves through lining and turn under the bottom edge of sleeve lining to finish approximately 1-1/4 inches above the finished end of the sleeve, and baste to turnup of cuff.

Fell turnup of sleeve lining; press sleeves. (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

c. Press the facing-lining seam, the underarm dart, and the bottom edge of the lining smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron with the raw edges of the underarm daft and facing-lining seam toward the side.

AA10-14SSa-1301b. Seam the front edge of the lining to the back edge of the facing 3/8 inch from the edge.

a. Position the lining on the facing with the top edges even and bottom finished edge of the lining matched with the notch in the back edge of the facing to ensure proper seaming.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be carefully and properly aligned and seamed to the facing so that in the finished coat, the lining shall be smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material or other defect or distortion.

Seam facing to front lining.24

AA10-14SSa-1301a. Fold the front lining, matching the cut edge of the underarm dart.

Stitch lengthwise along the dart tapering from 1/4 inch at the armhole to a point at the lower end as indicated by the mark on the pattern.

Finished appearance. The dart shall be tapered to a point at the lower end and shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats.

Stitch dart in front lining.23

AA10-14OSf-1301b. Form the pleat by stitching across top pleat at neckline. Press the pleat smooth and flat with the top to the bottom edges of the yoke lining with a heated pressing iron. The folded edge of the pleat on the outside of the yoke shall be towards the left side.

Make center pleat in yoke lining.

(cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

AA10-14SSa-1301i. Tack the ends of the piping at the underside, catching the tongue notches at each end of the pocket opening in the tacking.

AA10-14BSp-2301h. Turn the pocket through the opening to the inside. Form the piping at the front and back edge of the opening. Topstitch the front and back edges of the pocket opening adjacent to the seamed outer edges of the piping.

g. Cut the facing only for the pocket opening midway between the two rows of stitches. Tongue notch each end of the opening.

AA10-14SSv-1301f. Seam the pocket to the facing through all plies, with one row of stitches 3/16 to 1/4 inch on each side of the mark for the pocket opening

e. Position the two front edges of pocket in lining with the mark for the pocket opening, with the pocket facing next to the front facing.

d. Mark the left facing for the position of the pocket opening as indicated by the marks on the patterns.

AA10-14SSa-1301c. Seam the remaining three edges of label to pocket material 1/16 inch from each edge.

AA10-14LSd-1 (each edge)

301b. Position the rayon facing on the two pieces of pocket material with the top and front edges even. Turn under the inside and bottom edges, respectively, of the facing and seam to the pocket 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the lower edge of the identification label in the stitching at the inside edge of facing.

a. The inside pocket shall be made of two pieces of polyester twill with a facing of rayon lining at the vertical piped pocket opening.

Assemble inside pocket on left facing (see Figure 9).

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)

AA10-14BSb-1301a. Bind the raw back edge of the facing with 3/4 to 7/8 inch wide bias binding, turning under the outside raw edge of binding only, and catching the turned under portion in the stitching 1/16 inch from the inner folded edge.

The binding shall extend from the bottom edge of facing to not less than 1 inch above bottom finished edge of lining.

Finished appearance. The binding shall be uniformly stitched and shall not be tight or full causing puckers, gathers, or pleats. The basic material and edges of binding shall be securely caught in the stitching.