Att 5 MIL-DTL-82156D Coat Mans - Scarlet- Drum and Bugle Corps- Musicians.pdf

e I INCH-POUND I

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

21 October 1997

SUPERSEDING

MIL-c-82156C (MC) 13 June 1995

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, MAN’S - SCARLET, DRUM

AND BUGLE CORPS, MUSICIANS

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE

1, 1.1. scoDe. This specification covers requirements for musician’s scarlet wool drum and bugle corps coats.

1.2. Classification. The coats will be one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2):

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letr-r.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

e ~STRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;

distribution is unlimited.

Source: http://assist.dla.mil -- Downloaded: 2023-01-25T13:14Z Check the source to verify that this is the current version before use.

(Short, 34 35 36

1.3. Individual orders.

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

Schedule of sizes

Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq)-

37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46

When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern except that the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in,sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) .

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50196 A-A-50198 A-A-50199

A-A-52071

A-A-52094 A-A-52097 A-A-52106

Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleachedr or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Wigan, Cotton “Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and ● poIyester Blend

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC)

49 DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage

(General Use)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-c-368

MIL-DTL-3461

MIL-P-15064

141L-E-20652

MIL-c-21115

MIL-DTL-82114

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-191 -

FED-STD-751 -

Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and CaP Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Eyelets, Metallic, Eyelet Washers (General Specification For) Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians

Textile Test Methods Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies specifications, standards, handbooks are Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 of the above available from the Robbins Avenue, Building

40, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a Part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

ASTM E1282 -

(Application for

Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.)

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY ● 10036.)

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. )

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. ●

3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first ,article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, ”shade 2502 (see”6.3), 10.5 ounces, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115.”

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat and collar and for making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coat hanger, straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of the coat, and the front eyelet cover shall be cloth, satin rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of

MIL-C-368.

3.3.3 Cloth, twill or plain weave. The stays for the armhole

and shoulder seams; the reinforcement eyelets; and the binding for the neck interlining and the lower edge of the cut from cloth, twill or plain weave, pieces for the collar edge of the coat front collar interlining shall be polyester or polyester ● e blend conforming to A-A-52106, except the requirement for non-fibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. The color of the cloth shall be natural, for the armhole and shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces, and the binding for the neck edge of the coat front interlining; and black for the binding for the lower edge of the collar interlining.

3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for interlining the

collar shall be cloth, cotton buckram, double texture, laminated starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-501B6.

The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard.

3.3.5 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for the

buttons secured to the back side seam, with ring toggles, shall be punched from cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center.

3.3.6 Paddina for collar. The material for padding the collar a shall be suitable cotton felt, white, weight 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard.

3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of

MIL-OTL-82114 .

3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pad shall conform to the

requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.9 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.10 Stav tape. The stay tape for armholes shall be cotton, unbleached 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirements for non-fibrous material shall not apply.

3.3.11 Piping. The material for piping shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for the piping for shoulder straps, lower edge of collar, and ornamental sleeve patches; and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of e the coat.

3.3.11.l.Vinvl piping.

of the collar shall be serrated edges.

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

The white vinyl piping for the upper edge tubular, with 7/16 inch wide welt and ●

3.3.12 Bias bindinq. The binding for the underarm shields shall be bias cut out of the material specified in 3.3.2., The binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and have sized edges.

3.3.13 m. The material the sleeves shall be cloth, to type I of A-A-52097.

3.3.14 Thread.

3.3.14.l.Silk thread.

as follows, except the not apply.

for reinforcing the bottom edge of cotton wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming

The silk thread shall conform to A–A-50196 requirements for extractable matter shall

Use Type Class Ticket No. Ply

Bartacks and all outside I A seaming and stitching.

Machine felling. o Making buttonholes in coat. I B and”F 3 Hand felling and hand III 3 c 2 selling.

3.3.14.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows:

Use Type Ticket No. Ply

All inside seaming and stitching. III A 3 Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 2 Machine tacking armholes. I 40 3

The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester corer cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 70, 2-ply or ticket No. 50, 2-ply may be used.

3.3.14.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be dyed scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes may be white, and the cotton thread for,overedge stitch the piping at the bottom edge of the ● coats shall be black. The colored threads shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification:

Thread Color Wet (drv) Cleaninq Liqht

Cotton Scarlet Good --

Silk Scarlet Fair Fair Silk Black Good Good

NOTE : See DoD Standard Color Card of Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968.

3.3.15 W. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.16 Buttons.

3.3.16.1.1nsiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line for shoulders, belt loops and-ornamental sleeve patches and 40-line for fronts, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.16.2.Rina toqqles. Ring toggles for securing the 27-line insignia buttons to the belt loops, ornamental sleeve patches and shoulder straps shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.17 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 6.

3.3.17.l.Evelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored with six to eight scores. The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled a black shade.

3.3.18 Labels Each coat shall have a combination

identif=~/instruction label and size label conforming to DDD-L-20. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the a label shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.18.1.Combination identification/instruction label. The combination identification/instruction label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except all printing and the space between lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows:

Nomenclature:

Contract number:

Name of contractor:

Wool Products Act information:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3.18.2.Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The la”belshall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S (short), R (regular), L (long), or XL (extra long) as shown by the following example:

40R

3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design

shown on Figures 1 through 4. The coat shall be seven button, single breasted, form-fitting, fully lined having a one-piece e front; waist and chest darts; a four-piece back without a center vent; belt loops to button; ornamented at sleeve ends; shoulder straps to button; and a stand up collar with hook and eye for front closure and a metal eyelet at each end for removable branch of service insignia. The top and bottom edges of the collar; the front and bottom edges of the coat; the top, bottom, and scalloped back edges of the ornamental sleeve patches; and the edges of the shoulder straps shall be piped with the material specified in 3.3.11.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the

contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The contractor’s working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The standard patterns shall provide 5/8 inch allowance for center back,’ 3/4 inch allowance for side seams, and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I.

Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts.

e 3.5.1 List of pattern Darts. Coats shall be materials specified herein in accordance with indicated below:

cut the from the pattern parts

ITEM I PATTERN NOMENCLATURE INO. OF CUT PARTS

Material basic: Cloth, wool, tropical

1 Front 2 2 Front facing, right 1 3 Front facing, left 1 4 Side back 2 5 Center back 2 6 Top sleeve 2 7 Under sleeve 2 8 Collar, outer ply 2 9 Shoulder straps, top ply 2 10 Shoulder straps, under ply 2 11 Ornamental sleeve patch, top ply 2 12 Ornamental sleeve patch, under ply 2 13 Belt loops 2 14 Underarm shields 2

Material: Cloth, rayon lining

15 Front 2 16 Side back 2 17 Center back 2 18 Top sleeve 2 19 Under sleeve 2 20 Collar lining 1 21 Collar eyelet cover 2 22 Underarm shield 4 23 Front eyelet cover 1

Material: Cloth, cotton buckram

24 Collar interlining 1

Marker

25 Sleeve turnup and sleeve ornamentation marker

3.6. Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coat shall be

manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.

3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam and

stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. Al1 overedge stitching shall be done on serging machine with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material.

3.6.1.2.1 Tackinq and backstitching. Ends all seams and

stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line of stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitches, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. ● Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break not less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3. Shade markings. The component parts of the coat cut

from one piece of wool and lining materials, including pairs of sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets where adhesive causes discoloration or whose adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets.

o TABLE I. Manufact

No OPERATION e

Cuttinq.

a. Cutcoatsin strict accordance with thepatterns furnished by the Government.

b. Cut all materialsin the direction of thewarpas indicated by the directional lines on the patterns.

c. Cut all scarlet wool parts of the coat from one piece of basic material, except the following parts may be cut from ends: under ply of shoulder strapsandunder ply of orneimental sleeve patch. Partscut from ends shall harmonize with the shade of the coat.

d. Cut the body and collar linings, the front eyelet covers, and the top ply of the underarm shields from one piece of rayon lining material.All other rayon lining parts may be cut from ends. Whenpairsof sleeve liningsarecut fromends, the shade of the sleeve linings shall match.

Cut the strips for coat hanger and lining securingstraps1-1/8inches wide.

e. Cut twill or plain weave stays for the armhole and shoulder seams on the bias 3/8 inch wide and 4 i 1/4 inches long. Cut the twill or plain weave for binding the neck edge of the coat front interlining on the bias, 3/4 inch wide and approximately 5 inches long. Cut the twill or plain weave reinforcement pieces of collar eyelets not less than 2 inches long by 1-3/4 inches wide.

f. Cut the cotton buckram for interlining the collar on the straight in accordance with the pattern furnished.

g. Cut the cotton felt, for padding the Collar, 1-1/4 inches wide and of sufficient length to fold over the ends of the interlining for each size collar.

inq :

STCH

TYPE

quirem( ssAn/

STCH

TYPE

t-s.

rCH/Ib

BOB/

LPR

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

No OPERATION

Cuttinq. (cent’d)

h. Cut the piping material (see 3.3.11) for piping the frent and bottom edges of coats, the edges of the shoulder straps, lower edge of collar, and ornamental sleeve patch, on the straight. The piping shall but cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for shoulder straps, and ornamental sleeve patches, and 1 inch wide for front and bottom edges of coat. cut the binding material specified in

3.3.12 for the top and bottom edges of the collar interlining 1-1/8 inches wide on the straight.

i. Cut the wigan for reinforcing the bottom of the sleeves on the bias in accordance with the patteKn,

j. Punch the reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the side seam from cloth, cotton buckram. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center.

Replacement of damaqed parts.

a. At the time of cutting replace any part, of coat containing holes;

seriously weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakening slubs, etc. expected to develop into holes: shade bars and dye streaks; or unsightly slubs etc. , affecting appearance.

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into holes, scissor or knife cuts, tears, mends or burns, in the material, affecting appearance.

Shade marking.

a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.1.3) all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining materials, and pairs of sleeve joinings when cut from ends, to ensure uniform shade and size through the coat.

STCH

TYPE

ssAN/

STCH

TYPE rCH/I? NDL

SOB/

LPR

q requirements - Continued.

No I OPESATION shade markinq. (cent‘d)

b. The use of tickets with any metal fastening devices is prohibited on the rayon lining.

~n ghanaer nd inin ri

Finished appearance. The coat hanger and lining securing straps shall finish 1/4 to 3/0 inch wide.

a. Fold the 1-1/8 inch wide strip of lining material in half lengthwise, turn the edges to the inside and seam 1/16 inch from the turned edges.

b. cut the coac hanger 3-3/4 ? 1/4 inches long.

c. Cut the lining securing scraps 4-lf2 ~ 1/4 inches long.

Make collar eyelet covers.

Finished appearance. The collar eyelet covers shall finish 1-3/4 ~ 1/8 inches wide.

a. Tttrnunder the side edges of the collar eyelet cover and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from foIded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching.

b. Fold each cover in half across the width and seam 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded side edges.

Make unclerarm shiqJ@.

Finished appearance. The shields shall be made from one ply of basic material and shaII finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, gathers, or other distortions.

a. Bind the rounded edge of shield with bias binding, turning under the outside raw edge of the binding only, and catching the turned under portion in the stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

STCH

TYPE

SSAW

sTCH

TYPE

E*1

EFa-1 (each lde edge

Ssa-1

Ssa-1 rCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

A

A

A

SOBI

LPR

A

A

A

A

N(

MIL-DTL-82156D(MC),

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

OPERATION

Make frent evelet cover.

a. Fold front eyelet cover in half lengthwise, turn in the raw top and bottom edges and seam 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the raw edge and folded top and bottom edges.

Make belt loops.

Finished appearance. The belt loops shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, gathers, or other distortions. The buttcmholes shall be clean cut, well made and well worked over gimp to fit a 27-line insignia button. The gimp and thread shall be pulled through to the underside of the loops. The purling of the buttonholes shall be O“ the outside.

a. Fold the belt loops in half lengthwise, face to face, forming two plies.

b. Seam the two plies together along the side and pointed’ edges, 3/16 inch from the raw edges.

c. Trim the corners and point for proper turning. Turn loops, working out completely the po”int and seamed edges. .

d. Edge stitch the 100pa u-tiformly 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded and seamed edges.

e. Make a horizontal, eyelet end, square-bar type buttonhole, cut 314 inch long, in each loop midway between the back and front edges, with the inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole finishing 5/8 inch from pointed end of the loop.

STCH

TYPE

button-holes

SEAw

STCH

TYPE

SSa-1 raw edge Ssc-1

(top and bottom edges )

SSe-2

(a)

SSe-2

(b) (seamed edges ) Osf-1

(folded edges )

;TCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

50 per utt On-hole (not incl.

,artack

NOL

A

A silk)

A silk)

B silk)

BOBI

LPR

A

A (silk)

A (silk)

F [silk)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

I

NO OPERATION

8 tlakebelt 100D.T. (cent‘d)

f. Securely bartack the end of the buttonholes, catching the ends of the gimp and thread in the bartack. Trim the ends of the gimp and thread.

9 pake sboulder 3traDa.

Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish smoth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or other distortions. The piping shall be evenly worked out and shall extend uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the seamed edges of the shoulder straps. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made and well worked over the gimp to fit a 27-line insignia button. The gimp and thread shall be pulled through co the underside of the scraps. The la purling of the buttonhole> shall be on the outside.

a. The shoulder straps shall be made of two plies of basic material, piped with a S/a to 3/4 inch wide strip of piping material specified in 3.3.11.

b. Turn under one edge of the piping 5/16 inch and seam the turned under portion to the body of the piping 1/8 inch from the turned raw edge.

c. Position the right side of the cop ply of the shoulder strap on the hemmed piping with the raw edges of shoulder strap in line with the piping stitching line.

d. Join shoulder strap to piping along che back, front and collar end, 1/8 inch from the inner edge of piping.

e. Trim and notch the piping in accordance with good manufacturing practices in order to prevent pulling and to eliminate gathers and bulges around the collar end.

STCH

TYPE

artack

SEAW

STCH

TYPE

EFa-1

SSe-2 la) rcH/Ifi

1 per srtac)

10-14

10-14

NDL

A silk)

A

A silk)

SOB/

LPR

A [silk)

A

A

(Silk)

NO I OPESATION

9 Make shoulder straps. (cent‘d)

f. Position the top ply on the under ply face to face, with the outer edge of piping and raw edge of the under ply even and back notches matching.

9. Stitch along the back, front, and collar end through all plies 3/16 inch from the inner raw edge of the piping. Trim any excess material if necessary.

h. Turn the straps, completely working out the piped edges.

i. TopStitch the straps uniformly, 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping.

I

]. Press the shoulder straps smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

k. Make a horizcmtal, eyelet end, square-bar type buttonhole cut 3/4 inch long, in each strap, midway between the back and front edges, and with the inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole finishing 5/8 inch from outer edge of piping at the collar end of strap.

1. Securely bartack the end of the buttonhole, catching the ends of the gimp and thread in the bartack. Trim the ends of the gimp and thread.

STCH

TYPE

uttOn-hole artack ssAM/

STCH

TYPE

SSk-1 (a)

(without cord )

SSk-1

(a) (without cord)

SSk-1 (b)

{without ord and tOp-titched)

;TCH/II

10-14

10-14

10-14

60 per ,uttOn-hole

21 per ,artac}

NDL

A silk)

A silk)

A

B silk)

A silk)

A

(Silk)

A

(silk]

A

F (silk)

A (Silk)

BOB/

LPR

o TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

I

NO OPESATION

Make ornamental sleeve oatches.

Finished appearance. The ornament a1 sleeve patch shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish smooth ‘and flat, without twists,gathers, puckers,or otherdistortions.The pipingshall be evenly worked out anc shall extend unifomnly l/B inch beyond the seamed edges of the sleeve patch. The eyelet shall be well worked with the purling on the outside of the sleeve patch and shall finish with a l/E to 3/16 inch diameter opening.

Make ornamental sleeve va~hea.

(cent‘d)

a. The ornamental sleeve patch shall be made of two plies of basic material, piped with a 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide strip of piping material specified in 3.3.11.

b. Turn under one edge of the pipin~ 5/16 inch. Seam the turned under portion co the body of the piping 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

c. Position the right side of the top Ply of sleeve patch on the hemmed piping, with the raw edges of the sleeve patch in line with the piping stitching line.

d. Join sleeve patch to the piping along the top, bottom and scalloped edge 1/8 inch from the inner edge of the piping.

e. Trim and notch the outer edge of piping along the scalloped edge in order to prevent pulling and bulges on the edges.

f. Position the top ply of sleeve patch on the under ply, face to face, with the outer edge of piping and ra~ edge of the under ply even.

STCH

TYPE

SSAMl

STCH

TYPE

EFa-1

SS0-2

(a)

TCH/IN

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

A silk)

S08/

LPR

A

A silk)

NO

MIL-DTL-82156D (MC)

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

OPEAATION

9. Stitch along the top, bottom and scalloped edge, through all plies, 3/16 inch from the inner raw edge of the piping. Trim any excess material if necessary.

h. Turn the sleeve patches, working the piping out completely and forming smooth corners and point at the scalloped side edge.

i. Topstitch the sleeve patches uniformly, 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping.

10 Make ornamental sleeve Datches.

(cent’d)

]. Press the sleeve patches smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

k. Mark each sleeve patch as indicated by the marks on patterns, for the location of three eyelets.

1. Make one eyelet at each mark through all plies of the sleeve patch for attaching insignia button.

Stitch and Press dart in ““der sleeves.

a. Fold the under sleeve, matching the cut edges of the sleeve dart.

Stitch the entire length of the dart 1/4 inch from the cut edges of the armhole, tapering the line of stitching to zero at the lower folded edge.

b. Turn the cut edges of the dart toward the forearm edge and press the entire dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

12 Seam sleeves at forearm.

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

STCH

TYPE

Eyelet ssAM/

STCH

TYPE

SSk-1

(a) (without cord )

SSk-1 (b)

(without cord and tOp- ]titched)

SSa-1 (cut edges ) Osf-1 (folded edge )

TCH/IK

12-16

12-16

?2 per :yelet

12-16

NDL

A silk)

A :silk)

A silk)

A soB/

LPR

A :silk)

A :silk)

A

[silk)

A a requirements - Continued.

No I OPERATION e

a. Position the top sleeve with the upper fOrea~ edge in line with the notch in the armhole edge of the under sleeve and with the notches in the lower forearm edge of top and under sleeves matching. Se.9m the top and under sleeves together 3/8 inch from forearm edge of the top sleeve, forming a tapered outlet on the under sleeve.

b. Spread open the seam and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

Seam sleeves at forearm. (cent‘d)

c. Mark the sleeve end for turnup and mark the top sleeve for positioning the ornamental sleeve patch with pattern marker.

Baste wiqan reinforcement to sleeve.

a. Position the sleeve on the wigan reinforcement piece with marks and notches m8cching.

b. Saste the sleeve and wigan piece together at the umrk for the bottom turnup.

Join ornamental sleeve vatches to top sleeves.

Finished appearance. The ornamental sleeve patch shall be uniformly stitched co the top sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats or raw edges. The folded front edge of the patch shall not be,topstitched.

The dimensions and position of the ornamental sleeve patch shall be as shown in Figure 4. The scalloped edge of sleeve patch shall be stitched to the sleeve at the corners and point only, in order to facilitate removal of insignia buttons when pressing coat.

STCH

TYPE

Hand or

Smrv sTCH

TYPE

Ssbd-1 and

SSa-1

TCH/11

12-16

NDL

A

SOB/

LPR

A

NO I OPERATION

a. Mark the ornamental sleeve patch on the under ply 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Position the sleeve patch on the sleeve with marks matching and with the bottom edge of the sleeve patch even with the mark for the bottom turnup of the sleeve.

b. Seam the sleeve patch to the sleeve at the mark.

Join ornamental sleeve patches to ton sleeves. (cent’d)

c. Turn back the sleeve patch at the seamline and stitch through the sleeve and wigan along the upper and bottom piped edges. The line of stitching shall be adjacent to the stitching line of the sleeve patch piped edge and shall extend from the turned edge to approximately 1/2 inch over the pointed ends. At the center point, the stitching shall extend approximately 1/2 inch on each side of the point.

Seam sleeves at backarm.

Finished appearance.. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

a. Join the top and under sleeves together at the backarm with a 3/8 in;h seam, catching the ends of the wiqan reinforcement piece in the stitching.

b. Spread open the seam and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

lBaste a“d tack sleeve t“rn”p to Ireinforcement.

a. Turn up the bottom edge of the sleeve to the inside at the mark.

Baste along the turned edge.

STCH

TYPE

ssAM/

STCH

TYPE

LSa-1

LSbj-1

Ssa-1

TCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

A silk)

A silk)

A

BOB/

LPR

A

(Silk)

A (silk)

A e~e “1=’”’””-C“”’’”””” a a

NO I OPERATION

b. Tack the raw edge of the turned-up portion to the reinforcement wigan piece with blind stitching.

17 scitch and me ss dart in under sleeve

a. Fold the under sleeve lining, mstching the cut edge of theunder sleevedart. Stitchtheentire lengthof thedart,114inchfromthe cutedgesof thearmhole,tapering theline of stitching to zero at the lower folded edge.

b. Turn the cut edges of the dart toward the forearm edge and press the entire dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

a 18 Seam sleeve linin.aat forearm.

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

a. Position the top sleeve lining with upper forearm edge in line with the notch in the armhole edge of under sleeve lining. With the notches at lower forearm edge of top and under sleeve lining mstching, ses.mthe top and under sleeve lining together, 3/8 inch from the foreatm edge of top sleeve lining, forming a tapered outlet on the under sleeve lining.

19 Seam sleeve lininu at backarm.

Finished appearance. The backazm shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

6. Join the top and under sleeve linings at the backamn with a 3/8 e linch seam.

STCH

TYPE

Hand or

Jorl or

Hand sEAt4/

STCH

TYPE

EFc-1

Ssa-1

[cut edges ) OSf-1 [folded edge )

SSM-1

and

SSa-1

SSa-1

:TCH/It

4-6

4-6

12-16

12-16

12-16

NOL

A [silk)

A

A

A

SOBI

LPR

c (Silk)

A

A

A

NO OPER4TION

20 Assemble sleeve and sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be seamed to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats.

20 Assemble sleeve and sleeve lininq.

[cent’d)

a. Position the sleeve lining on the sleeve with the upper edge of the lini’ngextended approximately 1 inch beyond the armhole edge of the sleeve.

b. Tack the sleeve lining to the forearm and backarm seam allowance, respectively, of the top sleeve, commencing at the top edge of the wigan reinforcement piece and extending to approximately 6 inches from armhole edge at backarm and approximately 4-1/2 inches from armhole edge at the forearm.

c. Pull sleeve through lining.

Fell turnup of sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. The sleeve lining shall not be short, tight, or twisted at the bottom of the sleeve.

I

a. Turn under the bottom edge of sleeve lining to finish 1 to 1-1/4 inches above the finished end’of sleeve. Saste to turnup of the sleeve, or, the sleeve lining may be felled to bottom sleeve without basting.

b. Fell the folded edge of the sleeve lining to the turnup of the sleeve with blind stitching.

22 Press sleeves.

a. Turn the sleeves right side out and assemble in pairs. Press the lower half of the sleeves smooth and flat, creasing at the forearm and backarm. The backarm crease shall b( on the backarm seam. Remove the basting at lower end of the sleeve.

STCH

TYPE

or

Hand

Hand or

Hand or ssAN/

STCH

TYPE

Ssa-1

EFc-1 (b)

TCH/IN

6-8

4-6

8-10

6-B

NDL

A silk) A c silk) o silk)

SOB/

LPR

c [silk) o [silk)

NO I OPEPATION

23 A9seti le c~ ini g.

Finished appearance. The interlining is made of one ply of plastic [mylar), one Ply of laminated buckran and one ply of polyester twill or plain weave cloth. The interlining shall be constructed without twists, pleats or distortions.

a. position the plastic, buckram anc twill or plain cloth together and join with a 1/8 inch seam on the upper and lower edges. The interlining shall finish with the twill cloth on the inside and the plastic on the outside (see Figure

15).

b. Up the raw edge of the collar eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch on the top inside edge of collar interlining. Seam the covers to the interlining 1/4 inch from the raw edge of the cover. In the finished coat, the collar eyelet covers shall be centered over the collar eyelet.

Pioe outer 91v of collar.

Finished appearance. The piping shall extend at upper, lower, and side edges of the outer Ply. It shall be uniformly stitched without twists, gathers, puckers or pleat9.

a. The outer ply of the collar shall consist of two plies of basic material, piped at the upper edge with the vinyl cord and lower edge with 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide strip of the pipingmaterialspecified in 3.3.11.

b. Position the two plies of the collar face up and edges even.

Stitch them together from end to end.

1/8 inch from the upper and lower ?dges.

STCH

TYPE

SSAw

STCH

TYPE

BSa- 1 leach edge)

TCH/11

12-16

NOL

A

BOB/

LPR

A

NO OPEPATION

1.. seam the 5/B to 3/4 inch wide Istrip of piping to the lower edge of the two plies of collar from end to end, 1/8 inch from the upper and lower edges. Seam the vinyl cord to the upper collar edge.

Pipe outer vlv of collar. (cent’d)

d. Turn back the piping and outer ply at upper and lower edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping beyond the edges.

Topstitch the outer ply uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of piping.

Assemble collar.

Finished appearance. The collar shall be assembled without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats. In the finished collar, the end of the lining shall extend approximately 1/2 inch beyond the right end of collar and approximately 2-1/2 inches beyond the left end of the collar for the extension tab. The eyelet c,over shall not be caught in the eyelet.

a. Position the upper piped edge of collar 1/0 inch below the upper bound edge of collar interlining with lower edges of collar’ and collar interlining even. The collar shall extend approximately 1 inch beyond each end of collar interlining.

b. Stitch collar to interlining along the upper and lower piped edge from edge to end. The line of stitching shall be adjacent to stitching of the piped collar edge, catching the eyelet cover in the stitching.

STCH

TYPE

SSAM

STCH

TYPE

SSe-2

BSm-3 (b)

SSa-1 rCH/I?

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

A silk)

A silk)

A silk)

BOB/

LPR

A (silk)

A (silk)

A [silk) a ~e “’=’”’”’s-con’’”””” a Q

NO 0PE2L4TION

c. L.Spthe upper piped edge of collar assembly over the upper raw edge of lining, approximately in half, with the lining facing UP.

Stitch collar to lining and eyelet cover along piped edge adjscent to stitching line of the collar piped edge. The stitching shall extend frOm Center to center of the eyelet covers.

d. Smoothly fold the ends of the collar padding and outer ply to the inside over the ends of the interlining assembly, and press -th and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

25 &s9emble Colla~. (cent’d)

e. Turn the collar lining at the seams to the inside of the collar and press smooch and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

26 Flakecollar extension tab.

Finished appearance. The collar extension tab shall extend 3/4 to 1/8 ,inch beyond the folded edge of the !left end of the collar.

a. ‘Turn che top and bottom edges and ,the end of the collar lining at the ‘left end of the collar to the inside ~of the lining. LWste the turned portion along the top, front, and bottom edges to the body of the lining, forming the collar extension ‘tab.

b. Stitch the collar extension tab 1/16 inch from the top, front, and bottom edges. Continue che stitching at the back of the tab to top row, forming a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 inch wide lbOX stitch.

STCH

TYPE

Hand

SSAw

STCH

TYPE

LSa-1

Ssc-1 !top and bocc.am edges ) Osf-1 (front) SSa-1 (back edge )

12-16

12-16

NOL

A

A silk)

SOBI

LPR

A

A

(Silk)

TABLE 1. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO OPEWTION

27 Fell ends of collar.

Finished appearance. The upper and lower piped edges of the collar at each end shall not be visible on the outside of the finished collar.

a. Fold the ends of collar to the inside, against the end of interlining. Tack the collar to reinforcement pieces and eyelet covers with overcast stitching.

b. Insert one metal eyelet, through all plies of the collar, midway between the upper and bottom edge and 1-1/2 t 1/8 inches from the folded edge of either end of the collar.

28 Fold and stitch dart in front lininq.

Finished appearance. The darts shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats. The stitching shall be 3/8 inch from the folded edqe at the center.

a. Fold the front lining and stitch waist darts i“ accordance with marks indicated on the pattern. Taper the uPPer and 10wer ends to a flat point, and securely tack the poirits.

29 Sew on identification label.

Finished appearance. The identification label shall be positioned so that, in the finished coat, the label shall be midway between front and back edges of the right facing, with the bottom edge of the label approximately 4 inches fro= the bottom finished edge of coat.

a. Sew the identification label to the outside of the right facing with a single row of stitches, 1/16 inch from each edge.

STCH

TYPE

Hand ssAN/

STCH

TYPE

Osf-1

SSa-1 (each edge )

TCH/IN

2-3

12-16

12-16

NDL

c silk)

A

A

80s/

LPR

a A

A a requirements - Continued.

NoI OPEAATION

30 Loin front linina to wool facing.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be carefully joined to the facing so that, in the finished coat, the lining shall be smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material, or other distortion.

a. Position the lining on the wool facing with the top edges even.

b. Seam front edges of the lining tc the back edge of the facing 3/8 inch from the edge. The stitching shall extend from top edge of facing to aPPrOxi~tely 1-1/4 inches from the bottom edges.

31 Assemble back lininq.

Finished appearance. The side back lining shall be carefully joined without gathers, puckers or pleats.

The seam shall start and finish evenly.

a. Position and join the left and right side back linings to the respective center backs lining with 8 3/8 inch seam.

b. Position the backs and join them together at the center with e 3/8 inch seam.

32 Join side back and front liningS.

Finished appearance. The side back and front linings shall be carefully joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

a. Position and join the front and side back linings at the sides with a 3/4 inch seam.

IOvered.aeetitch 1inina and facing

2?A!!12.

a. Overedge stitch together the raw edges of the facing lining, side, side back, and center back seam allowance.

STCH

TYPE

:0=4 ssAn/

STCH

TYPE

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

SSa-1

Ssa-1

TCHII

12-16

12-16

12-16

12-16

6-8

6-8

NDL

A

A

A

A

10/2

70/2

ROBI

LPR

A

A

A

A

70/2

70/2

NO OPEPATION

34 Pres9 linina seams and waiat darts.

a. Turn the edge of facing-lining seam, the side seams, and side back seams toward the back and press smooth and flat.

b. Turn the waist darts toward the side seam and press smooth and flat.

35 Assetile fronts.

Finished appearance. The chest and waist darts shall finish without gathers, puckers or pleats. The stitching for the waist darts shall be 3/8 inch from the folded edge at the center.

35 Assemble fronts. (cent’d)

a. Fold the fronts, matching the notches of the chest darts. Stitch the entire length of the darts 3/8 inch from the notches at the upper end, tapering the line of stitching to zero at the lower end.

b. Fold the fronts and stitch the waist dart in accordance with the marks indicated on t“hepattern.

Taper the upper and lower ends to a flat point and securely tack the points.

Press darts on fronts.

a. Turn the folded edge of the chest darts towards the armhole and press smooth and flat.

b. Turn the folded edge of the waist darts towards the armhole and press smooth and flat.

Assemble back.

Finished appearance. The side and center backs shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

a. Position the center back with notches matching and join with a 5/8 inch seam.

STCH

TYPE

SSAW

STCH

TYPE

Ssa-1 :ut edge Osf-1 (folded edge )

Osf-1

SSa-1

12-16

12-16

12-16

NDL

A

A

A

BOB/

LPR

A

A

A

(l requirements - Continued.

No OPEAATION

b. Position and join the left and right side backs to the respective center back with a 3/8 inch seem.

38 .30in fronts and back.

Finished appearance. The fronts and back shall be joined without gathers, puckers or pleats. The seam shall start and finish evenly.

a. Position and join the fronts co the back at the sides with a 3/4 inch seam.

39 Overedqe stitch front and back seams.

a. Overedge stitch all raw edges of the jOining seams for front and back.

b. Spread open the side and back seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

40 Seam reinforcement stav to armhole and shoulder.

Finished appearance. The polyester and cotton reinforcement stays shall ,be sevn to the armhole and shoulder edges of the fronts without gathers, puckers or pleats. The top end of the armhole stay and lower edge of the shoulder stay shall form a right an91e at the armhole without the stays overlapping each other.

a. Seam the 3/4 inch wide stay to the shoulder edges and upper front edges of the armhole, 1/8 inch from the outer edges. The stay at the armhole shall extend from 1/2 inch below the shoulder seam down the front edge of the armhole approximately 4-1/2 inches; the stay at the shoulder shall extend

8Ppr0XiM6tel Y 1/2 inch from azmhole and neck.

STCH

TYPE

5°0:

ssAf4/

STCH

TYPE

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

EFd-

EFd-

SSaa-1

;TCH/11

12-16

12-16

6-8

6-8

12-16

NDL

A

A

10I2

10I2

A

SOBI

LPR

A

A

70/2

70/2

A

NO 0PER4TION

41 TaPe armholes.

a. Sew the cotton tape to the armhole. Start with one end aPPrOX1_tely 1 inch above the notch in the fronts and continue along the lower and back edge of the armhole to approximately 1/2 inch from the shoulder edge.

b. The tape shall be stitched with slight tension along the lower front edges of the armhole and shall be held taut while stitching along the back edge.

42 Press shoulder blades and armhole

UQSLZ.

a. Press the shoulder blades and the armhole tape smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or suitable type pressing machine.

43 Mark and dress left frOnt.

a. Mark and shape the left front edge from the top notch to the botton front notch.

b. The mark line shall be 1 inch from the upper edge to 1-1/8 inches at the waist line. Continue on a straight line from the waist line to the notch at the bottom edge.

NOTE : The dressing and shaping shall be performed in the sewing room.

c. Where necessary, trim any frayed edges along the right front”and bottom edges.

44 Stitch uiDina to coat.

Finished appearance. The piping shall be uniformly stitched to the coat without twists, gathers, pucker:

or pleats. The piping shall extend from the collar notch at top edge of the right front, along the bottom am up to the collar notch at the top edge of the left front.

STCH

TYPE

sEAN/

STCH

TYPE

Ssaa-1 rCH/1>

12-16

NOL

A

BOBI

LPR

A e TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO OPERATION

a. Position the 1 inch wide strip 01 piping material on the outside of left and right fronts, with edges even with top, front, and bottom edges of coat. Stitch piping to coat 1/8 inch from edge. The piping shall extend from bottm right front edge to the collar notch at the top edge of left front.

44 Stitch r.ivina to coac. (cont”d)

b. Turn the piping to the insida, fold-ing the corners smooch and flat, and working out the folded edge of piping uniformly, 1/8 inch beyond the edges of the coat. Topstitch the piped edges of the coat uniformly 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the pip- ing, catching the turned under portion of the piping in the stitching.

e

c. Cut out any axcess piping material at the top and bottom front corners to eliminate bulkiness. Trim the inner edge of piping on the left front only, from the upper front down to approximately 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the waistline, so that the piping will not interfere with front 0f the buttonholes.

d. Serge stitch the raw edge Of the piping at the bottom edge of the coat.

e Press the piped edge of the coat smooch and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing m8chine.

45 1nterline fronts.

a . Position the laft and right frents on the respective coat front interlinings. Baste the interlinings and fronts together from aPPrOxi~tal Y 3-1/2 inches down from the shoulder edge to approximately 2 irichesup from the bottom edge of the frent.

STCH

TYPE

or

Hand

3°0rl

SPAW

STCH

TYPE

SSa-1

SSe-2 (b)

EFd- 1

EFd-1

Hopper

TCH/I

12-16

12-16

6-8

6-8

NOL

A ;silk:

A silk)

70/2

70/2 sOBI

LPR

A

(Silk)

A (silk)

10/2

70/2

No I OPERATION

45 Interline fronts. (cent’d)

b. Baste along the shoulder, allowing room for setting the shoulder pad, working the fullness in the frent towards the armhole. Baste along the front of the armhole approximately 1 inch from the edge.

Continue to baste down the back edge of interlining, across the waist dart, to approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of fronts. Baste along the top edge from the basting stitches for the shoulder to approximately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge. Continue to baste approximately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge to the bottom edge of fronts.

46 Trim coat front interlining.

a. Trim the top edge of coat interlining even with the top edge of frents, from the point of the shoulder to the collar notch.

b. Notch the top edge of the interlining in line with the collar notch.

c. Remove the stitches joining the front edge of polyester and cotton cloth to coat front interlining, approximately 1/2 inch back from front and top edge of the fronts.

d. Trim the interlining only, even with the front and bottom edges of the fronts.

e. Turn the fronts inside out and trim the interlining only, approximately 1/4 inch back from the frent and top edge of fronts.

f. Trim the shoulder edge of the coat front interlining to aPPIOXimatel Y 314 inch from Shedder at armhole edge of fronts; taper the trimming to 3/8 inch at the neck.

STCH

TYPE

Hand or

SEAW

STCH

TYPE

Hopper

TCH/Ib

NOL

BOB/

LPR

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

NO I OPEPATION

47 Bind front and ton edae 0< Interlining.

a. Smoothly fold the polyester and cotcon, at the top and front edge of the interlining, over the respective raw edges to the underside. Secure the front turned under portion of the polyester and cotton co the body of the interlining with three rows of stitches 1/4 inch apart. Place the first row 1/8 inch from folded front edge and catch the upper turned under portion in the stitching.

48 Bind ton neck edae of interlining.

Finished appearance. The polyester and cotton binding shall be uniformly stitched to the top edge of the coat front interlining from the collar notch co the shoulder point.

e

a. LaP the 3/4 inch wide binding on the outside of the coat front interlining, from the collar notch to the shoulder point, approximately 1/4 inch. Stitch the binding to the interlining, 1/8 inch from the raw edge of the binding.

b. Smoothly fold the free edge of the binding over the top edge and to the underside of the interlining.

Secure the free edge of binding to the interlining with a row of stitches 1/8 inch from the raw edge of the binding.

49 Fell pioino to coat front interlining.

a. Place the inner edge of the piping on the outside of the interlining at the cop, front, and bottom edges. Baste piping to the interlining through the fronts.

b. Fell the upper front and lower inner edge of the piping to the coat front interlining.

c. Pull stitches tab and remove basting from che piping.

STCH

TYPE

or

Hand sEAu/

STCH

TYPE

EFa-1

LSa-1

BSa-1

EFc-1

TCH/11

12-16

12-16

12-16

4-6

4-6

NOL

A

A

A

A silk) A

BOB/

LPR

A

A

A c (Silk)

NO OPERATION

49 Fell DiDina to coat front interlining. (cent’d)

d. Press the left and right. fronts on a suitable type pressing machine.

The chest to conform to the shape of the body.

50 Set belt 100DS.

Finished appearance. The belt loops shall finish vertically straight.

a. Center the belt loops vertically on the side seam with the pointed end towards the bottom of the coat and with the raw edge of the loop in horizontal alignment with the mark for the bottom buttonhole as indicated, by the pattern.

b. Seam the looPs to the coat 1/4 inch from the raw edge.

c. Turn the loop at the seam, with the pointed end towards the top edge of coat, and secure the looP to the coat with a row of stitches 1/4 inch from the raised edge.

51 Join facina to fronts.

a. Position ;he left and right fronts to the respective front facings (face to face) with the waistline notch of the front in line with the…