DRAFT MIL-DTL-28950D.pdf
Detail Specification Rev. D PDF 4 MB Posted
- Attached to
- Coat, Man's – Dress; Blue (Officer’s)
- Solicitation number
- MIL-DTL-28950D(MC)
- Issued by
-
United States Marine Corps
About this file
This is a detail specification for a man's blue dress coat (officer's) worn by male officers of the United States Marine Corps. The specification covers a five-button, single-breasted, fully lined coat with belt in four size ranges (Short, Regular, Long, Extra Long) with chest sizes from 36 to 46 inches.
The coat shall be constructed from polyester/wool gabardine in dark blue shade 2312 conforming to MIL-DTL-10176, with an alternate option of wool elastique cloth in dark blue shade 2309 conforming to MIL-DTL-3738. The lining material must be acetate in either twill or satin weave with specified breaking strength, colorfastness to perspiration and dry cleaning, and dimensional stability requirements. The coat includes specialized components such as shoulder pads conforming to MIL-DTL-15064, metal gold-plated insignia buttons (27-ligne and 40-ligne) conforming to MIL-DTL-3461, collar closure hooks and eyes in cartridge brass with dull flat black finish, and snap fasteners in brass with black japanned or chemical finish. The coat features upper and lower bellows pockets with worked eyelets for detachable insignia buttons, flapped pockets, one inside breast pocket with vertically-piped opening, ornamental sleeve cuffs, shoulder straps with buttons, and a stand-up collar with hook and eye closure. A separate belt is included with snap fastener attachment and sewing hole button. Finished measurements are specified for half chest, half waist, back length, collar length, belt length, sleeve length, and collar height with defined tolerances for each size. Construction criteria are detailed in Appendix A, including stitch types, seam types, and stitches per inch for 50 operations from cutting through final pressing. First article and conformance inspection requirements are specified, with visual examination criteria covering 39 defect categories and dimensional examination against the specified finished measurements. The document references multiple Federal and military specifications for materials and components, including interfacing, thread, buttons, and construction standards. Approval authority is the United States Marine Corps with distribution approved for all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
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| CCF_MIL-DTL-28950D.xlsx | Rev. D | Coat, Man's – Dress; Blue (Officer’s) | |
| Att 1 MIL-DTL-28950C Blues Officers Blouse MILSPEC.pdf | Rev. C | Officers' Dress Uniforms |
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| Agency | Files |
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| United States Marine Corps | 3 |
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| CCF_MIL-DTL-28950D.xlsx | XLSX spreadsheet |
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Text version
NOTE: This draft, dated 13 April 2026, prepared by United States Marine Corps, has not been approved and is subject to modification. DO NOT USE PRIOR TO APPROVAL. (Project 8405-2026-005)
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-MA-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using ASSIST at https://assist.dla.mil.
AMSC N/A FSC 8405
Distribution Statement A. Approved for public release: distribution is unlimited.
MIL-DTL-28950D(MC)
DRAFT
SUPERSEDING
MIL-DTL-28950C(MC)
8 October 1997
DETAIL SPECIFICATION
COAT, MAN’S – DRESS; BLUE (OFFICER’S)
This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. SCOPE
1.1 Scope. This specification covers requirements for a man’s blue dress coat, with belt, worn by male officers of the United States Marine Corps.
1.2 Classification. The coat is of one type in the following sizes and lengths (see table I), as specified (see 6.2).
1.2.1 Schedule of sizes.
TABLE I. Schedule of sizes.
Short Regular Long Extra Long
36 36 36 36 38 38 38 38 40 40 40 40 42 42 42 42 44 44 44 44 --- 46 46 ---
1.3 Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the finished measurements may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices.
INCH-POUND
mailto:USMC_STDZ@usmc.mil
DRAFT DATED 13 April 2026
2. APPLICABLE PUBLICATIONS
2.1 General. The publications listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include publications cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, users of this document are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of publications cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.
2.2 Government publications.
2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these publications are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS
C-F-206 - Felt Sheet: Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
A-A-50067 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool
A-A-50129 - Cloth, Flannel, Lightweight
A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole
A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered
A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose
A-A-52105 - Cloth, Interfacing, Cotton, or Synthetic Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool, Rayon or Synthetic Filling
A-A-59826 - Thread, Nylon
A-A-59992 - Cloth, Interfacings: Woven, Cotton, and Synthetic
A-A-59994 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple (Plastic)
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
MIL-DTL-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular
MIL-DTL-495 - Finish, Chemical, Black, for Copper Alloys
MIL-DTL-3461 - Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap
MIL-DTL-3738 - Cloth, Elastique, Wool
MIL-DTL-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool
MIL-DTL-15040 - Labels, Garment (Woven, Rayon)
MIL-DTL-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head
MIL-C-15065 - Coat Fronts
MIL-DTL-32075 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)
MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS
MIL-STD-1490 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men’s Dress
(Copies of these publications are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)
https://quicksearch.dla.mil/
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these publications are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
AATCC TM8 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter
AATCC TM15 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC TM20A - Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative
AATCC TM132 - Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning
AATCC TM158 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene:
Machine Method
(Copies of these publications are available online at www.aatcc.org.)
AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)
ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
(Copies of this publication are available online at https://asq.org.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
ASTM D1777 - Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics
ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric
ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
ASTM D6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
(Copies of these publications are available online at www.astm.org.)
2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3. REQUIREMENTS
3.1 Inspections.
3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.
3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to conformance inspection in accordance with 4.4.
3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous lifecycle costs.
3.3 Design. The coat, a five-button, single-breasted, fully lined coat with separate belt, uses the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on figures 1, 2, 3A, and 3B. The coat has a skirt-type front with side body pieces, waist seam and waist darts, and a four-piece back with lined vent. The coat has upper patch pockets and lower bellows pockets with worked eyelets for detachable insignia buttons and with flaps to button, and one inside breast pocket with vertical -piped opening. Lower corners of upper pocket flaps may be secured with snaps or sewn down. The sleeves have ornamental cuffs. The coat has shoulder straps with buttons and a stand-up collar with a single hook http://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ https://www.astm.org/ and eye for front closure. The inside of the collar has a lining covering the hook and eye and sewn buttons for the attachment of a collar strip.
3.3.1 Figures. Figures 1 through 12 are provided for informational purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and figures, the written specification shall govern.
3.4 Materials and components.
3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a polyester/wool gabardine, dark blue shade 2312, conforming to MIL-DTL-10176, type II, class 12, when tested in accordance with 4.6.1.
3.4.1.1 Alternate basic material. As an alternate, the coat may be made from a wool elastique cloth, 16 ounces per linear yard, dark blue shade 2309, conforming to MIL-DTL-3738, type III, when tested as specified in 4.6.1.
3.4.2 Lining. The material for lining the coat, standard belt, pocket flaps, collar and vent; for making the belt fastener; and for the facing of the inside pocket shall be an acetate lining material, twill or satin (alternate) weave, conforming to the requirements specified in table II when tested as specified in 4.6.1.
TABLE II. Lining requirements.
Characteristic Twill requirement
Satin requirement
Shade Black or good match to basic material Fiber identification Acetate Yarns per inch (minimum)
Warp 120 288 Filling 68 68
Weight, ounces per square yard (minimum) 3.8 4.9 Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)
Dry: Warp 74 83 Dry: Filling 49 117 Wet: Warp 54 54 Wet: Filling 34 77
Colorfastness to perspiration, rating (minimum) (see 6.7) Color change 5 5 Staining on cotton 3.5 5 Staining on wool 4.5 5
Colorfastness to dry cleaning, rating (minimum) (see 6.7) Color change 4.5 5 Staining on cotton 4.5 5 Staining on wool 4.5 5
Colorfastness to crocking, wet and dry, rating (minimum) 3.0 4.5 Dimensional stability to dry cleaning, percent (maximum)
Individual sample unit ±3.5 ±3.5 Lot average ±3.0 ±3.0
3.4.3 Under collar cloth. The collar tab shall be made of wool flannel, under collar cloth, conforming to A-A-50067. The color of the cloth shall match the basic material of the coat (see 6.3).
3.4.4 Bias binding. The binding for the upper edge of the front pockets, the back edge of the facings, the raw edge of the button turnup, and the raw edge of seam allowances shall be bias-cut out of the lining material specified in 3.4.2. The bias binding for the seams, facings, and bottom turnup shall be 3/4 inch wide, and the bias binding for the top edge of pockets shall be 1-1/8 inches wide. The binding shall have sized edges. Armhole binding shall be cut 3/4 to 1 inch wide.
3.4.5 Polyester twill. The material for making the inside breast pocket, stay pieces for the front pockets, stays for the armhole and shoulder seams and the lower edge of armhole, inside pocket support, collar interlining, and the reinforcement pieces for the upper front pocket snap fasteners (if used) shall be cloth, polyester twill, conforming to A-A-52106, class 1. The polyester twill shall be black.
3.4.6 Belt interfacing. The material for interfacing the standard belt shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, natural color, conforming to A-A-50186, type I.
3.4.7 Collar interfacing. The material for interfacing the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to A-A-59992, type III, class 7. The weight of the finished laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard.
3.4.8 Coat fronts and chest pieces. The coat fronts and chest pieces shall conform to the following requirements. Figure 12 is provided for information and guidance only.
3.4.8.1 Basic material for coat fronts. The basic material for the coat fronts shall be cotton warp and hair-wool filling interfacing cloth meeting the requirements of A-A-52105, type II, dyed black.
3.4.8.2 Haircloth. The 2-ply cotton warp and natural horsehair filling cloth and the polyester twill cloth for the stays shall be dyed black. The dyed polyester twill shall show fastness to dry cleaning only. The cotton warp, hair filling cloth shall be dyed black, shall have not less than 60 ends and 40 picks per inch, shall weigh not less than
4.5 ounces per square yard, and shall contain no sizing.
3.4.8.3 Polyester and cotton cloth. The polyester and cotton cloth for stays, chest piece bottom covering, and top front corner reinforcement covering shall meet the requirements of A-A-52105, type II, undyed.
3.4.8.4 Padding. The padding for the chest shall be either felt or flannel. The felt shall be pressed wool conforming to C-F-206, type III (roll felt), classification 11A2. The flannel shall be unbleached, double-napped, conforming to A-A-50129. As an alternate, needle punch fabric with similar thickness and weight properties as those specified for felt is permitted.
3.4.8.5 Fusible for coat fronts and back vent (alternate). The coat front and vent may be fused using a woven twill cloth conforming to MIL-C-44296, type II, style B, class 1, in black or charcoal gray shade.
3.4.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to MIL-DTL-15064, type I, class 2.
3.4.10 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to MIL-DTL-15064, type IV.
3.4.11 Hanger braid. The braid for the hanger loop shall be black cotton tubular flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, with a minimum breaking strength of 50 pounds, conforming to MIL-DTL-371, type VIII, class 1.
3.4.12 Tape, cotton. The cotton tape shall conform to A-A-52071, type II, class 1; shall be 1/4 inch wide for armholes, back vent, and waist seam; and shall be 3/8 inch wide for front edges of coat.
3.4.13 Thread. The threads used in the construction of the coat shall conform to the requirements of the thread commercial item descriptions cited in table III when tested as specified in 4.5.1. The threads shall match the shade requirements specified in table III. The shade of the basic material can be found in 3.4.1.
3.4.13.1 Colorfastness. All threads, except the thread used for basting, shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration, and dry cleaning equal to or better than “3-4” when tested as specified in 4.6.1.
TABLE III. Thread requirements.
Use (seam type) Description Document Tex Ply Shade Seaming (301) Cotton-covered polyester core A-A-50199, type I 36-45 for needle and bobbin 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Seaming (401) Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type I 36-45 for needle 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material 31-35 for looper 2
Overedging (504 and 505)
Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type I 31-35 for needle and looper
2 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Raise, edge, and topstitching
Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type I 36-45 for needle and bobbin
2 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Buttonholes Nylon, twisted, soft finish
A-A-59826, type I, class A
45-46 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material 90-101 3 or 4
Buttonhole reinforcement
Cotton gimp A-A-50198, type I or II soft or glazed finish
210 -- Black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 showing good fastness to dry cleaning
Buttons Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type I 61-70 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Snap fasteners Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type I 36-45 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Eyelets Nylon, twisted, soft finish
A-A-59826, type I, class A
45-46 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Felling Nylon, tailoring, twisted multiple cord, soft finish
A-A-59826, type VI
24 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Machine tacking armholes
Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type I 61-70 2 or 3 Good match to the shade of the basic material
Tacking (103 or hand)
Cotton-covered polyester core
A-A-50199, type IV
36-45 2 Good match to the shade of the basic material 31-35 2
Basting Cotton-covered polyester core, nylon, or monofilament synthetic White or clear
3.4.14 Buttons.
3.4.14.1 Insignia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold-plated, officer design, 27-ligne and 40-ligne, regular shank conforming to MIL-DTL-3461, type I, style 4, class A, subclass 1. Ring toggles for securing buttons to pockets shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. Insignia buttons shall be attached in such a way that the head of the eagle is upright (±20 degrees) on all locations, except for the shoulder straps, and towards the collar (±20 degrees) on the shoulder straps.
3.4.14.2 Sewing hole buttons. The sewing hole buttons shall be melamine formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to A-A-59994, type I, class A. The color shall be white style 25, 16-ligne for the collar; black style 4, 22-ligne for the belt; and black style 20, 34-ligne for the bottom button of the front closure.
3.4.15 Fasteners, snap. The snap fasteners for the upper pockets and flaps (if used) and for the belt shall be brass, black japanned finish or black chemical finish in accordance with MIL-DTL-495, followed by clear lacquer coating, round or square style, rolled edge, size 1/0, sew-on type.
3.4.16 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye closure for the collar shall meet the requirements of table IV and shall have the appearance and the dimensions specified in figure 4. A known source for a hook and eye closure that has been found to be acceptable for use on the end item is provided in 6.5.
TABLE IV. Collar closure hook and eye requirements.
Characteristic Requirement
Material Cartridge Brass 70/30 (UNS Alloy C27000) Color/finish Dull flat black Coating type Lacquer, clear, commercial grade Coating application Continuous, level, and adherent
Completely coating the hook and eye Free from lint, dust, or other foreign inclusions
Coating tackiness No tackiness Attachment holes Completely open, free of any lacquer or black finish Edges and surfaces Clean and smooth
Free from burrs and tool marks No sharp edges or roughness
3.4.17 Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label and size label conforming to 3.4.17.1 through
3.4.17.3. The coat is intended to be dry-cleaned, and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning.
3.4.17.1 Identification label. The identification label shall be MIL-DTL- 32075, type VI, class 1, and shall measure not less than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be as follows:
Nomenclature:
Contract number:
Name of contractor:
Wool Product Act information:
NOTE: Size of characters for “Name of contractor” shall be a minimum 8 point (approximately 3/32 inch).
3.4.17.2 Size label. The size label shall be MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 2, and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S (short), R (regular), L (long), XL (extra long), as shown by the following example:
40 R
3.4.17.3 Woven instruction label. The woven instruction label shall conform to MIL-DTL-15040, type II, size C. The content and format shall be as shown in figure 5. The letters for the caption shall be not less than 5/32 inch in height, and all other letters and figures shall not be less than 1/8 inch in height.
3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished to the contractor by the Government (see 6.2). The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The contractor’s working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide
3/16-inch allowance for seams at the top and front edges of coat, and for pocket flap and shoulder strap seams;
3/4-inch allowance for side seams; 5/8-inch allowance for center back seam; and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified in appendix A. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, and directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts.
3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated in table V.
TABLE V. List of pattern parts.
Material Item Cut Parts Basic material (see 3.4.1) Front, upper 2
Front, lower 2 Facing, right 1 Side body (front) 2 Facing, left 1 Center back 2 Side back 2 Top sleeve 2 Under sleeve 2 Sleeve cuff 2 Collar (outer ply) 1 Shoulder strap, top ply 2 Shoulder strap, under ply 2 Pocket, upper 2 Pocket, lower 2 Pocket flap, upper 2 Pocket flap, lower 2 Belt 1 Belt optional 1
Lining (see 3.4.2) Front 2 Yoke 1 Top sleeve 2 Under sleeve 2 Pocket flap, upper 2 Pocket flap, lower 2 Inside breast pocket facing 2 Collar lining 1 Belt lining 1
Under collar cloth (see 3.4.3) Collar tab 1
TABLE V. List of pattern parts – Continued.
Material Item Cut Parts Polyester twill (see 3.4.5) Inside breast pocket 2
Stay, snap fastener 4 Stay, upper pocket 2 Stay, lower pocket 2 Collar interlining 1
Collar interfacing (see 3.4.7) Collar interlining 1 Belt interfacing (see 3.4.6) Belt interlining 1 Shapers Finished pocket shaper, upper 1
Finished pocket shaper, lower -- Finished pocket flap shaper, upper -- Finished pocket flap shaper, lower -- Left vent shaper --
Marker Sleeve cuff marker --
3.6 Construction. The coats should be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in appendix A. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in appendix A; however, the finished coat shall meet the appearance descriptions specified in
3.6.1.4 and the same performance as a coat made in accordance with the operations specified in appendix A.
3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in appendix A conform to ASTM D6193. The number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in appendix A. All overedge stitching shall be performed on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raw edge without cutting the material. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of 1/4 inch or less.
3.6.1.1 Tacking and backstitching. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitches, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break line not less than 1/2 inch.
3.6.1.2 Shade markings. The component parts of the coat cut from one piece of basic material, and lining material, including pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:
a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.
b. Sew-on shade tickets.
c. Adhesive type tickets that show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.
3.6.1.3 Construction operations. Appendix A includes a recommended procedure for assembly of the coat.
3.6.1.4 Finished appearance. The finished coat shall have the following appearance attributes:
a. The belt loops and keeper shall finish 1/2±1/8 inch wide and smooth and flat.
b. Each shoulder strap shall finish smooth and flat and shall be in accordance with the shoulder strap finished shaper. The pair of shoulder straps shall be uniform in appearance.
c. The one-piece belt shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, pleats, puckers, or raw edges. The pointed end of the belt shall be well-formed. The snap fastener shall be securely attached to the belt. The stitching shall not show on the outside of the belt. The finished width of the belt shall be 1-3/4+1/16, -1/8 inches.
d. The completed collar shall finish smooth and flat without distortion. The edges shall be uniformly even.
The edge stitching shall be uniform.
e. The forearm and back arm seams shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.
f. The sleeve lining shall be properly positioned and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, puckers, or gathers. The seams shall start and finish evenly.
g. The sleeve lining shall not be short, tight, or twisted at the bottom of sleeves.
h. The inside pocket shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat without causing any distortion.
i. The lining shall finish smooth and flat along the facing/lining joining seam without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material, or other defect or distortion.
j. The armhole shields shall finish without puckers, gathers, or raw edges. The basic material and both edges of the binding shall be securely caught in the binding stitching.
k. The side and center back shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The folded edge of the left vent shall be in vertical alignment with the center back seam. The left center back shall overlap the right center back not less than 2-3/4 inches when measured at the bottom edge of the coat.
l. The edge of the right side of the vent shall extend beyond the center seam allowance of the left back part.
m. The reinforcement stay pieces shall be sewn to the armhole and shoulder edge of the front without gathers, puckers, or pleats.
n. Each front shall consist of a front panel, a side front panel, and a side front dart panel. The panels shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats.
o. The back and fronts shall be carefully joined at the sides without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats.
p. The belt loops shall finish aligned with each side seam and measure 2+1/8, -0 inches long from the top to bottom folded edges.
q. The shoulder seam shall finish without a distorted appearance, with the front and back seam lines matching.
r. The shoulder straps shall be uniformly stitched to the coat without twists, fullness, or tightness. On the finished coat, the strap shall be 2-1/4±1/8 inches wide at the armhole seam and shall taper to 1-3/4±1/8 inches at the eyelet end of the buttonhole. The rounded end of the strap shall be 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the lower edge of the collar in the finished coat.
s. The neckline shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, or puckers. The size label shall be centered between the ends of the hanger loop. In the finished coat, the hanger loop opening shall be 2±1/8 inches long when measured along the lower edge of the collar lining.
t. The collar shall be carefully joined to the coat without twists, puckers, pleats, raw edges, or distortion.
u. The coat shall be uniformly edge stitched without distortion. The stitching shall be uniformly 1/8 inch from the edge.
v. The armhole sleeve seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats. The front edge of the sleeve shall crease at the sleeve bottom and shall finish 1 inch in front of the front/side front seam.
w. The sleeve armhole shall not be distorted or puckered due to stretching of the sleeve head pads and lining at the armhole.
x. The front buttonholes shall be eyelet end, square bar, cut first type. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well worked over gimp, with the stitching of the buttonhole securely caught in the basic material. The purling of the buttonhole shall finish on the outside. The buttonhole shall finish clean and shall be positioned according to the pattern marks. The inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole shall be 5/8±1/16 inch from the front edge.
y. The hook and eye shall be positioned to properly engage each other, effecting a flat, smooth closure at the front of the collar without misalignment.
z. The coat shall be well pressed throughout with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine to obtain the desired shape and appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practices, ensuring no shine or gloss.
3.7 Finished measurements. The finished measurements shall conform to the measurements shown in table VI, table VII, and table VIII when measured as specified in table VII. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches. For all sizes and lengths, the right forepart shall overlap the left forepart at the bottom. To measure the coat lying flat, match the side seams with the bottoms even. The left shall be 3-3/4±1/4 inches from the outer finished edge of the right front.
TABLE VI. Finished measurements.
Size A:
Half Chest
B:
Half
Waist
C:
Back
Length
D:
Collar Length
E:
Belt
Length
F:
Sleeve Length
G:
Collar Height
36S 18-1/2 14-3/8 28-3/4 15-1/2 38-3/4 17 2 38S 19-1/2 15-3/8 29 16 40-3/4 17 2 40S 20-1/2 16-3/8 29-1/4 16-1/2 42-3/4 17 2 42S 21-1/2 17-3/8 29-1/2 17 44-3/4 17 2 36R 18-1/2 14-3/8 29-3/4 15-1/2 38-3/4 18 2 38R 19-1/2 15-3/8 30 16 40-3/4 18 2 40R 20-1/2 16-3/8 30-1/4 16-1/2 42-3/4 18 2 42R 21-1/2 17-3/8 30-1/2 17 44-3/4 18 2 44R 22-1/2 18-3/8 30-3/4 17-1/2 46-3/4 18 2 46R 23-1/2 19-38 31 18 48-3/4 18 2 36L 18-1/2 14-3/8 30-3/4 15-1/2 38-3/4 19 2 38L 19-1/2 15-3/8 31 16 40-3/4 19 2 40L 20-1/2 16-3/8 31-1/4 16-1/2 42-3/4 19 2 42L 21-1/2 17-3/8 31-1/2 17 44-3/4 19 2 44L 22-1/2 18-3/8 31-3/4 17-1/2 46-3/4 19 2 46L 23-1/2 19-38 32 18 48-3/4 19 2
36XL 18-1/2 14-3/8 32-1/4 15-1/2 38-3/4 20 2
38XL 19-1/2 15-3/8 32-1/2 16 40-3/4 20 2
40XL 20-1/2 16-3/8 32-3/4 16-1/2 42-3/4 20 2
42XL 21-1/2 17-3/8 33-1/8 17 44-3/4 20 2
44XL 22-1/2 18-3/8 33-3/8 17-1/2 46-3/4 20 2
Tolerance ±3/4 ±3/4 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4 ±1/8
TABLE VII. Methods of measure.
Letter Measurement Method 1/ Measurement Depiction A Half Chest Measurement from folded edge to folded edge, in line with the pit of the armhole.
B Half Waist Measurement at waist joining seam from folded edge to folded edge.
C Back length Measurement along center back seam from outer collar seam to bottom of coat.
D Collar length Measurement with the coat opened
(unbuttoned), length from front edge to front edge at the center of the collar, taken on the inside of the collar.
No image available
E Belt length Measurement, with belt removed from the coat, from point to square end of belt along the center of belt.
No image available
F Sleeve length Measurement along inseam from pit of armhole to bottom edge of sleeve.
G Collar height Measurement from top edge of collar to bottom edge of collar, taken on the outside of the collar.
FOOTNOTE:
1/ Except for measurement D, the coat is buttoned and lays flat upon a table.
TABLE VIII. Pocket and flap measurements (inches). 1/
Size (Short, Regular, Long, Extra-Long) 36-38 40-42 44-46 Pocket Upper Lower Upper Lower Upper Lower
Length of flap at center point 2-7/8 3-3/4 2-7/8 3-3/4 2-7/8 3-3/4 Length of flap at sides 2-1/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 2-1/4 2-1/8 2-1/4 Width of flap at top edge 4-3/4 7-3/4 5-1/4 8-1/4 5-3/4 8-3/4 Width of pocket at top edge, side to side 4-1/2 7-1/2 5 8 5-1/2 8-1/2 Width of pocket at bottom edge, side to side 4-7/8 10 5-3/8 10-1/2 5-7/8 11 Length of pocket, top edge to bottom edge
Coat length
Short 6 10-1/2 6-1/4 10-1/2 6-1/4 10-1/2 Regular 6 10-3/4 6-1/4 10-3/4 6-1/4 10-3/4 Long 6 11 6-1/4 11 6-1/4 11 Extra Long 6 11-3/4 6-1/4 11-3/4 6-1/4 11-3/4
1/ Tolerance on all measurements is ±1/8 inch.
3.8 Workmanship. The finished coat shall conform to the quality of product established by this document.
Defects shall not exceed the established acceptance quality limits (AQL) (see 6.2) and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.
4. VERIFICATION
4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:
a. First article inspection (see 4.3).
b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4).
4.2 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the test conditions specified in MIL-STD-1490.
4.3 First article inspection. First article inspection shall be performed when a first article sample is required (see 3.1.1) in accordance with the inspection conditions of 4.2 and the material and component sampling of 4.5.1 through 4.5.3. This inspection shall include the examinations and tests of 4.6.1 through 4.6.4 for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements specified in this document.
4.4 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall be performed when specified (see 6.2) in accordance with the inspection conditions of 4.2 and the material and component sampling of 4.5.1 through 4.5.3.
This inspection shall include the examinations and tests of 4.6.1 through 4.6.4 for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements specified in this document.
4.5 Sampling and acceptance criteria.
4.5.1 Material sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), sampling shall be in accordance with table IX. Acceptance criteria shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2).
TABLE IX. Material sampling.
Lot size Sample size (sample unit) 800 or less 2
801 through 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5
4.5.2 Component sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in referenced documents or procurement documents (see 6.2), the unit for expressing lot size and sample unit for testing each component shall be in accordance with the applicable referenced document and table X. The component lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any examination or test requirements specified in this document.
TABLE X. Component sampling.
Component Lot size expressed as Sample unit for testing Lining Yards 3 yards full width Collar padding Yards 1/4 yard full width Collar closure hook and eye 100 (each) 2 (each) hook and eye Snap fastener 100 (each) 2 (each) male and female
4.5.3 End item sampling and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.2), sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The sample unit shall be one finished coat.
The lot size shall be expressed in units of coats. The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing as specified (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the lot.
4.6 Inspection methods.
4.6.1 Component and material examinations and tests. Components and materials shall be examined and tested in accordance with the examinations and tests specified in tables XI through XV, unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this document or applicable procurement documents (see 6.2).
TABLE XI. Component and material verification.
Material Requirement Verification Basic material 3.4.1 MIL-DTL-10176 Alternate basic material 3.4.1.1 MIL-DTL-3738 Lining 3.4.2 As listed in table II Collar tab 3.4.3 A-A-50067 Armhole shield binding 3.4.4 As listed in table XII Inside breast pocket and stay pieces 3.4.5 A-A-52106 Belt interfacing 3.4.6 A-A-50186 Collar buckram 3.4.7 A-A-59992 Floating chest piece: haircloth 3.4.8.2 MIL-C-15065 Floating chest piece: chest piece padding 3.4.8.4 As listed in table XVI Fusible interfacing: front and side panels, center back neck and center vent (woven or weft knit)
3.4.8.5 MIL-C-44296
Shoulder pads 3.4.9 MIL-DTL-15064 Sleeve head pads 3.4.10 MIL-DTL-15064 Hanger braid 3.4.11 MIL-DTL-371 Tape: woven tape 3.4.12 A-A-52071
Tape: fusible tape 3.4.12 MIL-C-44296
TABLE XI. Component and material verification - Continued.
Material Requirement Verification Threads 3.4.13 Per specific thread specification listed in table III Thread, shade 3.4.13 Visual 1/ Thread, colorfastness (black threads only) 3.4.13.1 Per specific thread specification listed in table III Buttons: insignia buttons 3.4.14.1 MIL-DTL-3461 Buttons: sewing hole for collar 3.4.14.2 A-A-59994 Buttons: sewing hole for belt 3.4.14.2 A-A-59994 Fastener, snap 3.4.15 As listed in table XV
Collar closure hook and eye 3.4.16 As listed in table XIV Identification label 3.4.17.1 MIL-DTL-32075 Size label 3.4.17.2 MIL-DTL-32075 Woven label 3.4.17.3 MIL-DTL-15040
1/ Results reported as pass or fail.
TABLE XII. Lining verification.
Characteristic Requirement Verification Shade 3.4.2 Visual 1/ Fiber identification 3.4.2 AATCC TM20A Yarns per inch: warp and filling 3.4.2 ASTM D3775 Weight 3.4.2 ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C Breaking strength 3.4.2 ASTM D5034
Dry: warp and filling Wet: warp and filling
Colorfastness to perspiration 3.4.2 AATCC TM15 Color change Staining on cotton Staining on wool
Colorfastness to dry cleaning 3.4.2 AATCC TM132 2/ Color change Staining on cotton Staining on wool
Colorfastness to crocking 3.4.2 AATCC TM8 Dimensional stability to dry cleaning 3.4.2 AATCC TM158 2/ Width (armhole shield binding only) 3.4.4 Visual 1/ Edge finish (armhole shield binding only) 3.4.4 Visual 1/
FOOTNOTES:
1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.
2/ AATCC specifies using perchloroethylene, which is strictly regulated. Other dry-cleaning methods may be used to perform this testing. If other methods are used, they should be cited in the reporting of results.
TABLE XIII. Floating chest piece: chest piece padding verification.
Characteristic Requirement Verification Fiber identification 3.4.8.4 AATCC TM20A Color 3.4.8.4 Visual 1/ Construction 3.4.8.4 Visual 1/ Weight 3.4.8.4 ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C Thickness: initial and after 3 dry cleanings and steam pressings
3.4.8.4 ASTM D1777 2/
Breaking strength: machine and cross direction 3.4.8.4 ASTM D5034 Shrinkage after 3 dry cleanings and steam pressings:
machine and cross direction
3.4.8.4 4.6.1.1 2/
FOOTNOTES:
1/ Results recorded as pass or fail.
2/ Any commercial dry-cleaning method may be used. Material shall be steam pressed after each dry cleaning.
TABLE XIV. Collar closure hook and eye verification.
Characteristic Requirement Verification 1/ Material table IV Standard commercial 2/ Appearance 3.4.16 Visual Dimensions 3.4.16 Visual Color/finish table IV Visual Coating type table IV Visual 2/ Coating application table IV Visual 2/ Coating tackiness table IV 4.6.1.2 Attachment holes table IV Visual Edges and surfaces table IV Visual
FOOTNOTE:
2/ May be addressed through a certificate of compliance (see 6.7)
TABLE XV. Snap fastener verification.
Characteristic Requirement Verification 1/ Material 3.4.15 Standard commercial Color/finish 3.4.15 Visual Coating type 3.4.15 Visual Style 3.4.15 Visual Edge finish 3.4.15 Visual Size 3.4.15 Visual Application 3.4.15 Visual
4.6.1.1 Dimensional stability of floating chest piece: chest piece padding. Three specimens, 22 by 22 inches, shall be cut from the polyester material (see 3.4.8.4), parallel to the machine and cross machine directions, and no closer than 3 inches from the selvage. An 18-inch square shall be marked within the 22-inch specimen with indelible ink. No marks shall be closer to the edge of the specimen than 1 inch. The specimen shall be commercially dry-cleaned three times using a solvent-based solution. Samples shall be bottom steam pressed after each dry cleaning for 20 seconds in a non-locked position and vacuumed for 10 seconds.
4.6.1.1.1 Dimensional stability calculation. Each of the three 22- by 22-inch specimens shall be laid out without tension on a flat surface. Care should be taken that the specimens are free from wrinkles and creases. The previously measured distances marked on the specimen (initial measurement, 18 inches) in each direction (machine and cross) shall be remeasured to the nearest 1/16 inch, recorded, averaged, and calculated for dimensional change.
The dimensional change of the sample unit (3 specimens) shall be calculated to the nearest 0.10 percent using the following formula:
Dimensional change percent = (A-B)/A×100 Where: A = Average of initial measurements B = Average measurements after dry cleaning
4.6.1.2 Tackiness of collar closure hook and eye. At room temperature (60 to 80 °F), a piece of commercial tissue paper shall be pressed against the lacquered surface of a hook and eye for 30 seconds, using the thumb and two fingers to exert pressure. After 30 seconds, the paper shall be removed from the surface. Any evidence of tissue adhering to the surface shall be scored as a failure.
4.6.2 In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be performed at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details, which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with the requirements specified in section 3. Materials and components which contain defects and damages, as defined in the visual examination of 4.6.3, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished coat shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the visual examination of 4.6.3.
4.6.3 Visual examination. The coat shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking. The defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified in 4.6.3.1.
Inspection for defect categories I through XII shall occur when the coat is on the model form or when spread out on a table, inspection for defect categories XIII through XXV shall occur when the coat is completely buttoned on a model form, and inspection for defect categories XXVI through XXXIX shall occur when the coat is spread out on a table. The inspection conditions and the AQLs shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2).
4.6.3.1 Classification of defects. All defects shall be classified as indicated in table XVI.
TABLE XVI. Classification of defects.
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
I. BARTACKS a. One or more missing, loose, or misplaced (except bartacks on the buttonholes)
II. BUTTONHOLES a. One or more omitted, added, or wrong type 101
b. Not corresponding to the size of the button:
(1) Too small, not permitting the button to enter the buttonhole 102
(2) Too large, 3/8 inch or more longer than the diameter of the button (measured at the inside of the purling)
c. Buttonhole not securely caught on the fabric, causing the stitching to pull away from the fabric
d. Bartack missing or loose on:
(1) One buttonhole 203
(2) Two or more buttonholes 104
e. Bartack misplaced, not serving intended purpose on one or more buttonholes
f. One or more broken stitches in:
(1) One buttonhole 205
(2) Two or more buttonholes 105
g. More than 2 skipped stitches in one or more buttonholes: 206
h. Ragged edge, affecting appearance 207
i. Any uncut buttonhole 208
j. Gimp omitted in one or more buttonholes or the end of the gimp not pulled through to the underside
TABLE XVI. Classification of defects – Continued.
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
II. BUTTONHOLES
(continued)
k. Stitches per buttonhole (not including the bartack) less than the minimum specified by:
(1) One or two stitches 210
(2) Three or more stitches 106
l. One or more buttonholes finished with the purling on the underside
III. BUTTONS a. One or more missing, loose, defective, or improper size or type 1/ 211
b. One or more buttons sewn with the head of the eagle in other than the specified position (see 3.4.14.1)
IV. CLEANNESS a. Any spot or stain that cannot be easily removed with a moistened cloth and that is clearly noticeable from a distance of three feet
(1) On the outside 108
(2) On the inside 213
b. Two or more thread ends not trimmed throughout the garment, one or more bastings not removed, or two or more shade tickets not removed
c. Any residue of synthetic thread (when used) not brushed off or removed
V. COMPONENTS
AND ASSEMBLY
a. Any component part or required operation omitted (not otherwise classified in this table)
(1) Affecting appearance or serviceability 109
(2) Not affecting appearance or serviceability 216
b. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not herein classified)
(1) Affecting appearance or serviceability 110
(2) Not affecting appearance or serviceability 217
VI. CUTTING a. Any component part of the basic material not cut in accordance with the patterns or not cut in accordance with the specified requirements
b. Any non-basic material component not cut in accordance with the patterns or not cut in accordance with the specified requirements
VII. EYELETS a. One or more omitted or added 112
b. Wrong type 219
c. Eyelet not securely caught in the fabric, causing the stitching to pull away from the fabric
d. Diameter of the inside opening less than 1/8 inch or more than 1/4 inch
e. Any eyelet uncut 221
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
VII. EYELETS
(continued)
f. One or more broken stitches in:
(1) One eyelet 224
(2) Two eyelets 225
g. More than two skipped stitches in one or both eyelets 226
VIII. HOOK AND
EYE
a. Hook or eye omitted 113
b. Not specified type or size 227
c. Hook or eye not securely tacked to the ends of the collar 228
d. Not aligned, causing the collar ends to be uneven by 1/4 inch or more when the front is buttoned and the hook and eye are fastened
IX. MATERIAL
DEFECTS AND
DAMAGE
a. Any hole, cut, tear, smash, mend, burn, scorched area, shade marking, or open place:
(1) On the outside (any dimension) 115
(2) On the inside (longest dimension in any direction
(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive 229
(b) More than 1/4 inch 116
b. Loose yarn, misweave, area of no dye penetration, dye streak, or woven-in waste: more than 1/4 inch (largest dimension in any direction) on the outside
c. Permanent fold, pleat, or crease in the cloth (when caught in seaming or stitching) on the outside
d. Visible needle hole(s) (no thread present) or needle chew (i.e., presence of scuffed or broken yarns caused by stitching)
(1) On the outside:
(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive 231
(b) More than 1/4 inch 119
(2) On the inside, more than 1/2 inch 232
e. Knot or slub on the outside 2/ 233
X. PRESSING a. Burned, scorched, or area with shine or gloss
(1) Affecting appearance or serviceability 120
(2) Not affecting appearance or serviceability 234
b. Pressing omitted - entire garment 235
c. Armhole stretched
(1) Affecting appearance or serviceability 121
(2) Not affecting appearance or serviceability 236
d. Poorly pressed (unless otherwise indicated) 237
e. Basting or pressing impression not removed 238
f. Gloss not removed 239
g. Armholes not blocked or poorly blocked 240
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
X. PRESSING
(continued)
h. Edge bulky (i.e., not pressed solid) 241
i. Inside of the armhole not creased as required 242
j. Armhole seam not pressed open across the top as required 243
k. Sleeve not creased at the front or back arm seam as specified 244
l. Wrinkles not removed 245
m. Lining not pressed smooth 246
XI. SEAMS AND
STITCHING
a. Accuracy of seaming:
(1) Any seam twisted, gathered, puckered, or pleated 247
(2) Part of the garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching
(a) Affecting appearance or serviceability 122
(b) Not affecting appearance or serviceability 248
(3) Unsightly hand felling or blindstitching exposed on the outside of the coat, affecting appearance
(4) End of any stitching (when not caught in other seams or stitching) not backtacked or backstitched as required
(5) Wrong shade of thread or two shades of thread used on the outside of the coat, affecting appearance
b. Gage of stitching (edge, raise, and topstitching):
(1) Irregular (i.e., unevenly gaged, or various stitchings not uniform, affecting appearance)
(2) Gage varies more than 1/16 inch when no range is specified 252
c. Open seams: 3/
(1) On the outside:
(a) Up to 1/4 inch, inclusive 253
(b) More than 1/4 inch, but not more than 1/2 inch 254
(c) More than 1/2 inch 124
(2) On the inside, except machine felling:
(a) Up to 1/2 inch, inclusive 255
(b) More than 1/2 inch 256
(3) Machine felling:
(a) Up to 1 inch, inclusive 257
(b) More than 1 inch 258
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
XI. SEAMS AND
STITCHING
(continued)
d. Raw edges: 4/
(1) On the outside:
(a) More than 1/8 inch, but not more than 1/4 inch 259
(b) More than 1/4 inch 125
(2) On the inside:
(a) More than 1/8 inch, but not more than 1/4 inch 260
(b) More than 1/4 inch 118
e. Stitch tension:
(1) Loose tension resulting in a loose seam (stitches grin) 126
(2) Loose tension on raised, edge, or top stitching, resulting in loosely exposed bobbin or top thread
(3) Tight tension (stitches break when normal strain is applied)
f. Stitches per inch less than the minimum specified by: 5/
(1) Two or three stitches (except label stitching) 262
(2) Four or more stitches (except label stitching) 128
(3) One or more stitches on label 262b
h. Wrong stitch or seam type 263
i. Stitching skipped or broken (on edge, raised, or topstitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched):
(1) 1/4 inch or more, but not more than 1/2 inch 264
(2) More than 1/2 inch 165
XII. SHADED
PARTS
a. Any shaded part on the outside of the coat 129
b. Any lining part shaded 265
XIII. COLLAR
CONSTRUCTION
a. Interfacing or buckram omitted 130
b. Interfacing or buckram tight or twisted, causing puckers on the collar, affecting appearance
c. Tight at the joint to front or back, causing puckers or pleats at the neck of the coat, affecting appearance
d. Collar ends overlapping when fastened 267
e. Collar ends gap more than 1/4 inch when fastened 132
f. Center of the eyelet from the finished end of the collar less than 1-3/8 inches or more than 1-5/8 inches
g. One or both eyelets off-center with the top and bottom edges of the collar by more than 1/16 inch
h. Collar off-center by more than 1/4 inch 134
i. Finished height of the collar less than 1-5/8 inches or more than 1-7/8 inches
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
XIII. COLLAR
CONSTRUCTION
(continued)
j. Collar irregular in height by 3⁄16 inch or more 135
k. Front finished ends of the collar uneven in height by 3/16 inch or more
l. End of the collar distorted, twisted, or crooked, caused by hand felling or hand stitching exposed on the outside of either collar end
m. Hand tacking at lower corner of the collar to the coat insecure or omitted
XIV. ALIGNMENT
OF FRONT
BUTTONS AND
BUTTONHOLES
a. Not aligned, causing a noticeable bulge or twist on the front when buttoned, affecting appearance
XV. LENGTH OF
BUTTONED
FRONTS
a. Right front at the corner shorter than the left front at the bottom by:
(1) More than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch 273
(2) More than 1/4 inch 137
b. Right front at the corner longer than the left front by:
(1) More than 1/4 inch but not more than 3/8 inch 274
(2) More than 3/8 inch 275
c. Left front at the corner exposed beyond the bottom of the right front by more than 1/8 inch
XVI. SHOULDER a. Improperly sewn, causing the shoulders or back to twist
(1) Affecting appearance or serviceability 138
(2) Not affecting appearance or serviceability 277
XVII. SHOULDER
PADS
a. Not completely caught in the armhole tacking 278
b. Misplaced, not serving intended purpose (i.e., too far back or too far forward)
c. One or both pads omitted 139
XVIII. SHOULDER
STRAPS
a. Misplaced (i.e., one shoulder strap further forward or back from the position of the other strap, affecting appearance)
b. Shoulder strap stitched to the coat too full or twisted, or stitched to the coat too tight, causing fullness or twist on the front or back of the coat
c. Poorly shaped 141
d. Shoulder seam exposed beyond the back edge of the shoulder strap (except the rounded end)
e. Width of the shoulder strap at the armhole seam:
(1) Less than 2-3/8 inches, but not less than 2-1/8 inches 282
(2) More than 2-5/8 inches, but not more than 2-7/8 inches 283
(3) Less than 2-1/8 inches or more than 2-7/8 inches 166
Component Defect Classification
Major Minor
XVIII. SHOULDER
STRAPS
(continued)
f. Width of shoulder strap across the center of the insignia button:
(1) Less than 1-5/8 inches, but not less than 1-1/2 inches 286
(2) More than 1-7/8 inches but not more than 2 inches 287
(3) Less than 1-1/2 inches or more than 2 inches 167
g. Rounded end of the shoulder strap positioned less than 1/4 inch or more than 3/8 inch from the…
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