Att 4 MIL-DTL-82172D Coat Mans - Summer and Winter Scarlet- Drum and Bugle Corps- Drum Major and Director.pdf

1. SCOPE

1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for scarlet, wool, drum and bugle corps coats.

INCH-POUND

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

8 October 1997

SUPERSEDING

MIL-C-82172C(MC)

21 June 1995

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

COAT, MAN'S - SUMMER AND WINTER, SCARLET,

DRUM AND BUGLE CORPS, DRUM MAJOR AND DIRECTOR

This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

AMSC N/A FSC 8405

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;

distribution is unlimited.

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.

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1.2. Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the

following classes and sizes as specified (see 6.2):

Class 1 - Drum Major Class 2 - Director

Schedule of sizes

(Short, Regular, Long, Extra Long)

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46

1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except that the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2. Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50186 - Cloth, Cotton, Buckram A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered

A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed)

A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52097 - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave Polyester and

Polyester Blend DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage

(General Use) V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple

(Plastic)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

MIL-C-368 -Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 -Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 -Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-L-17507 -Lace, Ornamental MIL-E-17568 -Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic MIL-C-21115 -Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-E-29652 -Eyelets, Metallic and Eyelet Washers, Metallic MIL-DTL-82114 -Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians MIL-DTL-82194 -Ornamentation - For Jacket, Man's Evening

Dress

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.)

2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection By Attributes

(Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, Inc., 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.)

ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys

(Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.)

Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades of Sewing Threads 1968

(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.)

2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern.

3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.3. Materials.

3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the coats and collar and for making the underarm shields, collar eyelet covers, coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of the coat shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368.

3.3.3 Cloth, twill or plain weave polyester or polyester blend.

The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams, reinforcement pieces for the collar eyelets, bindings for the lower edge of the collar, and neck edge of the coat front interlining shall be cut from cloth, polyester or polyester blend, conforming to A-A-52106, except the requirement for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. The polyester or polyester blend shall be khaki, shade 3707 for the armhole and shoulder seam stays, the collar eyelet reinforcement pieces and the binding for the neck edge of front interlining; and black for the binding for the lower edge of the collar interlining.

3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the collar

interlining shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard.

3.3.4.1. Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar

interlining shall be clear plastic stock, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern.

3.3.4.2. Plastic interlining. The plastic interlining must

withstand wet (dry) cleaning. It must not melt or become distorted under wet (dry) cleaning or pressing.

3.3.5 Reinforcement disc. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the side seam, with ring toggles, shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.4. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center.

3.3.6 Padding for collar. The material for padding the collar shall be suitable cotton felt, white, weighing 4.25 to 4.75 ounces per square yard.

3.3.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to the

requirements of class 1 of MIL-DTL-82114.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

3.3.8 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the

requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.9 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to the requirements of type IV of MIL-P-15064.

3.3.10 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armhole shall be

cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply.

3.3.11 Piping. The piping material shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607, conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for piping the shoulder straps, collar, or ornamental sleeve patches (class 1 only); and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of the coat.

3.3.12 Binding. The binding for the collar interlining shall be cut 1 inch wide from the following materials:

a. Upper edge of collar interlining - cloth, polyester/ wool blend as specified in 3.3.11.

b. Lower edge of collar interlining - cloth, polyester and cotton as specified in 3.3.3.

3.3.13 Wigan. The material for reinforcing the bottom edge of the sleeves shall be cloth, cotton, wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming to A-A-52097.

3.3.14 Threads.

3.3.14.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to

A-A-50196 as follows; except the requirements for extractable material shall not apply:

A

B and F

C

I

I

III

Bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching.

Machine felling Making buttonholes in coat.

Hand felling; and hand sewing.

PlyTicket No.TypeUse

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

3.3.14.2. Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to

A-A-52094 as follows:

A

III

I

II

All inside seaming and stitching.

Serging and overedge stitching.

Machine tacking armholes and sewing on buttons.

PlyTicket No.TypeUse

The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2 ply or ticket No. 70, 2 ply may be used.

3.3.14.3. Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, except the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes may be white. The cotton thread for overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge of the coat shall be black. The colored thread shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968).

Thread Color Wet (dry) cleaning Light

Cotton Scarlet Good --- Silk Scarlet Fair Fair Silk Black Good Good

3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198.

The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.16 Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the coat

fronts shall conform to the following requirements:

Cover Material (covering) Metal thread Color of wire Light gold Metal wire (undercoating) Silver and copper Plating material Gold Winding thread Two ply white or yellow cotton thread

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Core (stuffer) Material Cotton thread (soft) Number of threads 7 minimum Ply of thread 2 minimum ColorGold

WeavePlain braided Number of carrier 12 minimum Ends/carriers 6-8 (total 79) ShapeTubular Width 3/8 + 1/16 inch minimum Weight/linear yard 154.5 grams

Metal content (%) Gold 0.3 minimum Silver 0.6 minimum Copper Remainder (traces of nickel and zinc)

Fastness to WaterGood Wet (dry) cleaning Good

3.3.16.1. Collar gold lace. The gold lace for the collar shall conform to type II, class 1, style A of MIL-L-17507.

3.3.17 Buttons.

3.3.17.1. Insignia button. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line for shoulders, belt loops, and ornamental sleeve patches; and 40-line for fronts, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 2 of MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.17.2. Ring toggle. Ring toggles for securing the 27-line

buttons to shoulder straps, belt loops and ornamental sleeve patches shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461.

3.3.17.3. Sewing button. The lower button on the coat front

shall conform to type II, class D, style 20, 40-line of V-B-871 and match the shade of the basic fabric.

3.3.18 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for

closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish, or

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 9.

3.3.18.1. Eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored six to eight scores.

The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-29652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled a black shade.

3.3.19 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination instruction/ identification label and a size label as follows. The coat is intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

3.3.19.1. Combination instruction/identification label. The

combination instruction/identification label shall conform to type V, classes 2 and 14 (combined) of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows:

Collar size:

Nomenclature:

Contract number:

Wool Products Act information:

DRY CLEAN ONLY

3.3.19.2. Size label. The size label shall conform to type V, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S (short), R (regular), L (large), or XL (extra large), as shown by the following example:

40 R

3.3.20 Vinyl piping. The white vinyl cord for piping the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular, with 7/16 inch-wide welt and serrated edges (see 6.5).

3.3.21 Sleeve ornamentation. The sleeve ornamentation for the class 2 coat shall conform to type III, class 2 of MIL-DTL-82194 except that the embroidery yarns used shall be tarnish resistant, synthetic, metallic yarn conforming to MIL-E-17568. This ornamentation shall normally be furnished by the Government and attached during manufacturing of the coat.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

3.3.22 Bias binding. The binding for the underarm shields shall be bias cut of the lining material specified in 3.3.3. The binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and have sized edges.

3.4. Design. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design

shown on Figures 1 through 9: a five-button, single breasted, form-fitting, fully lined coat, having a one-piece front with gold braid; waist and chest darts; a four-piece back without a center vent; belt loop to button; ornamented sleeve ends;

shoulder straps to button; and a standup collar with hooks and eyes for front closure and with a metal eyelet at each end for a removable branch of service insignia. The collar shall have gold lace sewn to the top, lower and ends of the outer edges of the collar as shown in Figures 1, 2, 7 and 8. The front and bottom edges of the coat; the top, bottom and scalloped back edges of the ornamental sleeve patches; and the edges of the shoulder straps shall be piped with the material specified in 3.3.11.

3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the

contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The contractor's working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The standard patterns shall provide a 5/8 inch allowance for center back, 3/4 inch allowance for side seams; and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified in Table I.

Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement, and assembly of component parts.

3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the

materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below:

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Sleeve turnup and sleeve ornament26

Markers

Collar interlining25

Material: Mylar plastic

2Reinforcement (bottom edges of sleeves)

Material: Cloth, cotton, wigan

1Collar interlining23

Material: Cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend

1Collar interlining22

Material: Cloth, cotton, buckram

Front Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Underarm shield Collar lining Collar eyelet cover

Material: Cloth, rayon, lining

Front Front facing, right Front facing, left Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Collar, outer ply Shoulder straps, top ply Shoulder straps, under ply Ornamental sleeve patch, top ply Ornamental sleeve patch, under ply Belt loops

Material: Basic, cloth, wool, tropical

NO. OF CUT PARTSPATTERN NOMENCLATUREITEM

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

3.6. Construction.

3.6.1 Manufacturing requirements. The coat shall be

manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I.

3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats.

3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitching. The stitch, seam and

stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I, indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machines with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material.

3.6.1.3. Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of seams and

stitching (stitch type 301), except ends of a continuous line of stitching when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks shall be secured back of the break line not less than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.4. Shade markings. The component parts of the coat, cut from one piece of wool and lining materials, including pairs of sleeve linings and underarm shields when cut from ends, shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except:

a. Metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on shade tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

g. Cut the cotton felt for padding the collar 1-1/4 inches wide and of sufficient length to fold over the ends of the interlining for each size collar.

f. Cut the cotton buckram and mylar plastic for interlining the collar on the straight in accordance with the pattern furnished.

e. Cut polyester or polyester blend stays for armhole and shoulder seams on the bias, 3/4 inch wide and 4 + 1/4 inches long. Cut the polyester and cotton for binding the neck edge of the coat front interlining on the bias, 3/4 inch wide and approximately 5 inches long. Cut the polyester and cotton for the collar interlining on the straight in accordance with the pattern furnished.

d. Cut the body and collar linings, the collar eyelet covers, and the top ply of the underarm shields from one piece of rayon lining material. All other rayon lining parts may be cut from ends. When pairs of sleeve linings are cut from ends, the shade of the sleeve linings shall match.

Cut the strips for coat hanger and lining securing straps 1-1/8 inches wide.

c. Cut all scarlet wool parts from one piece of basic material, except the following parts may be cut from ends: under ply of the shoulder straps, and under ply of ornamental sleeve patch. Parts cut from ends shall harmonize with the shade of the coat.

b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns.

a. Cut coats in strict accordance with patterns furnished by the Government.

Cutting.1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

a. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.1.4) all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining materials, and pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, to insure uniform shade and size throughout the coat.

Shade marking.3

b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews, which may be expected to develop into holes; scissors or knife cuts; tears; holes; mends or burns in the material affecting appearance.

a. At time of cutting, replace all parts of coat containing holes;

seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, loose or weakening slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes; shade bars and dye streaks; or unsightly slubs, etc., affecting appearance.

Replacement of damaged parts.2

j. Punch the reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the side seam from cloth, cotton buckram. The reinforcement disc shall be 7/8 inch diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center.

i. Cut the wigan for reinforcing the bottom of sleeves on the bias in accordance with the pattern.

h. Cut the piping material (see 3.3.11) for piping the front and bottom edges of coats, edges of shoulder straps, and ornamental sleeve patches (class 1) on the straight. The piping shall be cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for shoulder straps and ornamental sleeve patches, and 1 inch wide for front and bottom edges of the coat. Cut the applicable binding material (see 3.3.12) for the top and bottom edges of the collar interlining on the straight, 1-1/8 inches wide.

Cutting. (cont'd)1

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position the two plies of material for the underarm shields with edges even. Seam the two plies together along the curved side and bottom edges 3/8 inch from the edges.

Finished appearance. The shields shall be finished smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, gathers, or other distortions.

Make underarm shields.6

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Fold each cover in half across the width. Seam 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded side edges.

AA12-16EFa-1 (each side edge)

301a. Turn under the side edges of the collar eyelet covers. Stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching.

Finished appearance. The collar eyelet covers shall finish 1-3/4 + 1/8 inches wide.

Make collar eyelet covers.5

c. Cut the lining securing straps 4-1/2 + 1/4 inches long.

b. Cut the coat hanger 3-3/4 + 1/4 inches long.

AA12-16EFp-1301a. Fold the 1-1/8 inch wide strip of lining material in half lengthwise.

Turn the edges to the inside and seam 1/16 inch from the turned edges.

Finished appearance. The coat hanger and lining securing straps shall finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide.

Make coat hanger and lining securing straps.

b. The use of tickets with any metal fastening devices is prohibited on the rayon lining.

Shade marking. (cont'd)3

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

F (silk)

B (silk)

60 per button-hole (not incl.

bartack)

Button-hole

e. Make a horizontal eyelet end, square bar type buttonhole, cut 3/4 inch long, in each loop midway between the back and front edges.

The inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole shall finish 5/8 inch from pointed end of the loop.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSe-1 (b)

(seamed edge) OSf-1

(folded edge)

301d. Edgestitch the loops uniformly 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded and seamed edges.

c. Trim corners and point for proper turning. Turn loops, working out the point and seamed edges completely.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSe-2 (a)

301b. Seam the two plies together along the side and pointed edges, 3/16 inch from the raw edges.

a. Fold the belt loops in half lengthwise face to face forming two plies.

Finished appearance. The belt loops shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish smooth and flat without puckers, pleats, gathers, or other distortions. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, well worked over the gimp to fit a 27-line insignia button. The gimp and thread shall be pulled through to the underside of the loops. The purling of the buttonholes shall be on the outside.

Make belt loops.7

c. Press the shields smooth and flat with heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

b. Turn the shield right side out, working out the seamed edges completely.

Make underarm shields. (cont'd)6

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

e. Trim and notch the piping in accordance with good manufacturing practice in order to prevent pulling and to eliminate gathers and bulges around the collar end.

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-16SSe-2 (a)

301d. Stitch shoulder strap to piping along the back, front, and collar end, 1/8 inch from the inner edge of the piping.

c. Position the right side of the top ply of the shoulder strap on the hemmed piping with the raw edges of shoulder strap in line with the piping stitching line.

AA12-16EFa-1301b. Turn under one edge of the piping 5/16 inch and stitch through all plies, 1/16 inch from the turned raw edge.

a. The shoulder straps shall be made of two plies of basic material piped with a 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide strip of piping material specified in 3.3.11.

Finished appearance. The shoulder straps shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or other distortions. The piping shall be evenly worked out and shall extend uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the seamed edges of the shoulder strap. The buttonholes shall be clean-cut, well made, well worked over gimp to fit a 27-line insignia button. The gimp and thread shall be pulled through to the underside of the straps. The purling of the buttonhole shall be on the outside.

Make shoulder straps.8

A (silk)

A (silk)

21 per bartack

Bartackf. Securely bartack the end of the buttonhole, catching the ends of the gimp and thread in the bartack. Trim the ends of the gimp and thread.

Make belt loops. (cont'd)7

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

A

A (silk)

21 per bartack

Bartackl. Securely bartack the end of the buttonhole, catching the ends of the gimp and thread in the bartack. Trim the ends of the gimp and thread.

F (silk)

B (silk)

60 per button-hole (not incl.

bartack)

Button-hole

k. Make a horizontal, eyelet end, square-bar type buttonhole, cut 3/4 inch long, in each strap, midway between the back and front edges.

The inside edge of the eyelet end of the buttonhole shall finish 5/8 inch from the outer edge of the piping at the collar end of the strap.

j. Press the shoulder straps smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSk-1 (b)

(without cord and top stitched)

301i. Topstitch the straps uniformly, 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping.

h. Turn straps, working out piped edges completely.

A (silk)

A (silk)

10-16SSk-1 (a)

(without cord)

301g. Stitch along the back, front, and collar end, through all plies, 3/16 inch from the inner raw edge of the piping. Trim any excess material if necessary.

f. Position the top ply on the under ply face to face, with the outer edge of piping and the raw edge of the under ply even with the back notches matching.

Make shoulder straps. (cont'd)8

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

A (silk)

12-16SSk-1 (a)

(without cord)

301g. Stitch along the top, bottom, and scalloped edge, through all plies 3/16 inch from the inner raw edge of the piping. Trim any excess material if necessary.

f. Position the top ply of the sleeve patch on the under ply, face to face, with the outer edge of the piping and the raw edge of the under ply even.

e. Trim and notch the outer edge of piping along the scalloped edge in order to prevent pulling and bulges on the edges.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSe-2 (a)

301d. Join the sleeve patch to the piping along the top, bottom and scalloped edge 1/8 inch from the inner edge of the piping.

c. Position the right side of the top ply of the sleeve patch on the hemmed piping, with the raw edges of the sleeve patch in line with the piping stitching line.

AA12-16EFa-1301b. Turn under one edge of the piping 5/16 inch. Stitch through all plies, 1/16 inch from the turned raw edge.

a. The ornamental sleeve patch shall be made of two plies of basic material piped with a 3/4 inch wide strip of the piping material specified in 3.3.11.

Finished appearance. The ornamental sleeve patch shall be uniform in appearance and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, pleats, puckers, or other distortions. The piping shall be evenly worked out and shall extend uniformly 1/8 inch beyond the seamed edges of the sleeve patch. The eyelets shall be well worked with the purling on the outside of the sleeve patch and shall finish with a 1/8 to 3/16 inch diameter opening.

Make ornamental sleeve patches (class 1 only).

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STCH TYPESTCH

TYPEOPERATIONNO

TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeves at forearm.11

b. Turn the cut edges of the dart toward the forearm edge and press the entire dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSa-1 (cut edges) OSf-1

(folded edges)

301a. Fold the under sleeve, matching the cut edges of the sleeve darts.

Stitch the entire length of the dart, 1/4 inch from the cut edges of the armhole, and taper the line of stitching to zero at the lower folded edges.

Stitch and press dart in under sleeve.

A (silk)

A (silk)

22 per eyelet

Eyeletl. Make one eyelet at each mark, through all plies of the sleeve patches, for attaching insignia button.

k. Mark each sleeve patch, as indicated by marks on pattern, for the location of three eyelets.

j. Press the sleeve patches smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSk-1 (b)

(without cord and topstit-ched)

301i. Topstitch the sleeve patches uniformly, 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping.

h. Turn the sleeve patches, working out the piping completely and forming smooth corners and point at the scalloped side edge.

Make ornamental sleeve patches (class 1 only). (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Finished appearance. The ornamental sleeve patch shall be uniformly stitched to the top sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges. The folded front edge of the patch shall not be topstitched.

The position of the ornamental sleeve patch shall be as shown in Figure 4.

The scalloped edge of the sleeve patch shall be stitched to the sleeve only at the corners and point in order to facilitate removal of insignia buttons when pressing the coat.

Join ornamental sleeve patches to sleeves (class 1 only).

A

A

A

A

8-12

8-12

SSa-1101 or

c. Tack the sleeve to the reinforcement piece along the forearm seam allowance, and along the backarm edges of the top and under sleeve.

Hand or

b. Baste the sleeve and wigan piece together at the mark for the bottom turnup.

a. Position the sleeve on the wigan reinforcement piece with the marks and notches matching.

Baste wigan reinforcement to sleeve.12

c. Mark sleeve end for turnup; and mark the top sleeve for positioning the ornamental sleeve patch with the pattern marker.

b. Spread open the seam and press flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSbd-1 and

SSa-1

301a. Position the top sleeve with upper forearm edge in line with the notch in the armhole edge of under sleeve. The notches in the lower forearm edge of top and under sleeve shall match. Seam top and under sleeves together, 3/8 inch from the forearm edge of the top sleeve, forming a tapered outlet on the under sleeve.

Seam sleeves at forearm. (cont'd)11

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Hand or

a. Turn up the bottom edge of the sleeve to the inside at the mark and baste along the turned edge.

Baste and tack sleeve turnup to reinforcement.

b. Spread open the seam and press smooth and flat without a heated pressing iron.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-1301a. Join the top and under sleeve together at the backarm with a 3/8 inch seam, catching the ends of the wigan reinforcement piece in the stitching.

Finished appearance. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeves at backarm.14

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16LSbj-1301c. Turn back the sleeve patch at the seamline and stitch through the sleeve and wigan along the upper and bottom piped edges. The line of stitching shall be adjacent to the stitching line of the sleeve patch piped edge and shall extend from the turned edge to approximately 1/2 inch over the pointed ends. At the center point, the stitching shall extend approximately 1/2 inch on each side of the point.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16LSa-1301b. Seam the sleeve patch to the sleeve at the mark.

a. Mark the ornamental sleeve patch on the under ply, 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Position the sleeve patch on the sleeve with the marks matching and the bottom edge of sleeve patch even with mark for the bottom turnup of the sleeve.

Join ornamental sleeve patches to sleeves (class 1 only). (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Join the top and under sleeve linings at the backarm with a 3/8 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve lining at backarm.18

AA12-16SSbd-1 and

SSa-1

301a. Position the top sleeve lining with upper forearm edge in line with the notch in the armhole edge of under sleeve lining. The notches at the lower forearm edge of the top and under sleeve lining shall match.

Seam the top and under sleeve lining together, 3/8 inch from the forearm edge of topsleeve lining, forming a tapered outlet on the under sleeve lining.

Finished appearance. The forearm seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats and shall start and finish evenly.

Seam sleeve lining at forearm.17

b. Turn the cut edges of the dart toward the forearm edge and press the entire dart smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

AA12-16SSa-1 (cut edges) OSf-1

(folded edge)

301a. Fold the under sleeve lining, matching the cut edges of the under sleeve dart. Stitch the entire length of the dart, 1/4 inch from the cut edges at the armhole, and taper the line of stitching to zero at the lower folded edge.

Stitch and press dart in under sleeve linings.

AA

C (silk)

4-6

4-6

EFc-1301 or

Hand

b. Tack the raw edge of the turn up portion to the reinforcement wigan piece with blind stitching.

Baste and tack sleeve turnup to reinforcement. (cont'd)

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Turn the sleeve right side out and assemble in pairs. Press the lower half of sleeve smooth and flat, creasing at the forearm and backarm.

the backarm crease shall be on the backarm seam. Remove the basting at lower end of the sleeve.

Press sleeves.21

C (silk)

(silk)

8-10

6-8EFc-1 (b)

Hand or

b. Fell the folded edge of the sleeve lining to the turnup of the sleeve with blind stitching.

Hand or

a. Turn under the bottom edge of the sleeve lining to finish 1 to 1-1/4 inches above the finished end of the sleeve. Baste to turnup of sleeve;

or the sleeve lining may be felled to bottom sleeve without basting.

Finished appearance. The sleeve lining shall not be short, tight, or twisted at bottom of sleeves.

Fell turnup of sleeve lining.20

c. Pull sleeve through lining.

AA6-8

4-6

SSa-1301 or

Hand

b. Tack the sleeve lining to the forearm and backarm seam allowance, respectively, of the top sleeve, commencing at the top edge of the wigan reinforcement piece and extending to approximately 6 inches from the armhole edge at backarm and approximately 4-1/2 inches from armhole edge at forearm.

a. Position the sleeve lining on the sleeve with the upper edge of the lining extending approximately 1 inch beyond the armhole edge of the sleeve.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be seamed to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers or pleats.

Assemble sleeve and sleeve lining.19

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-1301b. Position the two plies of the outer collar together (face up and edges even) and stitch together from end to end, 1/8 inch from upper and lower edges.

a. The outer ply shall consist of two plies of basic material piped at lower edges with 3/4 inch side strip of the piping material specified in

3.3.11. The upper edge is piped with

the white vinyl specified in 3.3.20.

Finished appearance. The piping shall extend at lower, upper, and side edges of the outer ply. Shall be uniformly stitched without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats.

Pipe outer ply of collar.23

AA12-16LSa-1301b. Lap the raw edge of the collar eyelet cover 1/2 to 5/8 inch on the top inside edge of the collar interlining. Seam the covers to the interlining 1/4 inch from the raw edge of the cover. In the finished coat, the collar eyelet covers shall be centered over the eyelet in the collar.

AA12-16SSa-1 (each edge)

301a. Position one ply of plastic, laminated buckram, and polyester or polyester blend cloth together and join with a 1/8 inch seam on the upper and lower edges. The interlining shall finish with the polyester or polyester blend cloth positioned on the inside and the plastic (mylar) on the outside (see Figure 7).

Finished appearance. The interlining is made of one ply of plastic (mylar), one ply of laminated buckram and one ply of polyester or polyester blend cloth. The interlining shall be constructed without twists, pleats or distortions.

Assemble collar interlining.22

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

AA12-14SSa-1301d. Stitch the gold lace to the finished folded edges of the top collar 1/16 inch in from the finished scarlet edges. The lining and eyelet covers shall be facing up. The lace may be stitched without basting provided the proper appearance and neatness requirements are maintained.

AA12-14SSa-1301c. Lap the upper edge of the collar over the top raw edge of collar lining, approximately 1/2 inch, with the lining and eyelet cover facing

up. Stitch collar to lining and eyelet cover 3/16 inch in along the upper edge. The stitching shall extend from center to center of eyelet covers.

AA12-14SSa-1301b. The piping shall be positioned 1/8 inch above the folded upper edge and on the inside of the collar. The piping and collar shall be stitched together from end to end with a 1/8 inch seam from the edge of collar.

(The piping shall be as specified in 3.3.11.)

AA12-14SSa-1301a. Center the interlining assembly on the outer collar. Fold the upper and lower edges of the collar over the interlining assembly and stitch together with a 1/4 inch seam from the folded edge.

Assemble collar.24

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16BSm-3 (b)

301d. Turn back the piping and outer ply at the lower edges, uniformly working the folded edge of the piping beyond the edges. Topstitch the outer ply uniformly, 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping. The vinyl piping on the upper collar edge shall be trimmed even with the end of the collar.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSe-2301c. Seam the 3/4 inch wide strip of piping and vinyl to the two plies of the collar from end to end, 1/8 inch from upper and lower edges.

Pipe outer ply of collar. (cont'd)23

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

A (silk)

22 per eyelet

Eyeletb. Attach metal eyelets on each end of the collar midway between the top and bottom edges and 1-1/2 inch + 1/8 inch from the finished ends.

C (silk)

2-3Handa. Fold the ends of collar to the inside, against the ends of interlining. Tack collar to reinforcement pieces and eyelet covers with overcast stitching.

Finished appearance. The upper piped edges of the collar at each end shall not be visible on the outside of the finished collar.

Fell ends of collar.26

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSc-1 (top and bottom edges) OSf-1 (front edge) SSa-1 (back edge)

301b. Stitch the collar extension tab 1/16 inch from the top, front and bottom edges. Continue the stitching at the back of tab to top row, forming a 1-3/8 to 1/2 inch wide box stitch.

Handa. Turn the top and bottom edges, and the end of the collar lining at the left end of the collar, to the inside of the lining. Baste the turned portion along the top, front, and bottom edges to the body of the lining forming the collar extension tab.

Finished appearance. The collar extension tab shall extend 3/4 to 7/8 inch beyond the folded edge at the left end of the collar.

Make collar extension tab.25

e. Turn the collar lining and eyelet covers at the seam to the inside of collar and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

Assemble collar. (cont'd)24

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Seam front edges of the lining to the back edge of the facing, 3/8 inch from the edge. The stitching shall extend from the top edge of facing to approximately 1-1/4 inches from the bottom edge.

a. Position the lining on the wool facing with the top edges even.

Finished appearance. The lining shall be carefully joined to the facing so that, in the finished coat, the lining shall be smooth and flat along the facing without creases, bulges, overlapping of excess material, or other distortion.

Join front lining to wool facing.29

AA12-16SSa-1 (each edge)

301a. Sew the identification label to the outside of the right facing with a single row of stitches 1/16 to 1/8 inch from each edge.

Finished appearance. The identification label shall be positioned so that in the finished coat, the label shall be midway between front and back edges of the right facing with the bottom edge of the label shall be approximately 4 inches from the bottom finished edge of the coat.

Sew on identification label.28

AA12-16OSf-1301a. Fold the front lining and stitch the waist darts in accordance with marks indicated on the pattern.

Taper the upper and lower ends to a flat point and securely tack the points.

Finished appearance. The darts shall finish without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The stitching shall be 3/8 inch from the folded edge at the center.

Fold and stitch dart in front lining.27

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

Finished appearance. The chest and waist darts shall finish without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The stitching for the waist darts shall be 3/8 inch from the folded edge at the center.

Assemble fronts.34

b. Turn the waist darts toward the side seam and press smooth and flat.

a. Turn the edge of facing lining seam, the side seams and the side back seams toward the back and press smooth and flat.

Press lining seams and waist darts.33

70/2

70/2

70/2

70/2

6-8

6-8 or

a. Overedge stitch together the raw edges of the facing lining seam, side seam, side back seam, and center back seam allowance.

Overedge stitch lining and facing seams.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position and join the front and side back linings at the sides with a 3/4 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The side, back, and front linings shall be carefully joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

Join side back and front linings.31

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Position the backs and join together at the center with a 3/8 inch seam.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position and join the left and right side back linings to the respective center back lining with a 3/8 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The side back lining shall be carefully joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats.

The seams shall start and finish evenly.

Assemble back lining.30

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

70/2

70/2

70/2

70/2

6-8

6-8

EFd-1

EFd-1 or

b. Overedge stitch all raw edges of the joining seams for fronts and back.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position and join fronts to the back at the sides with a 3/4 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The fronts and back shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The seam shall start and finish evenly.

Join fronts and back.37

AA12-16SSa-1301b. Position and join the left and right side backs, with notches matching, to the respective center back with a 3/8 inch seam.

AA12-16SSa-1301a. Position the center back with notches matching and join with a 5/8 inch seam.

Finished appearance. The side and center backs shall be joined without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The seams shall start and finish evenly.

Assemble side backs and center back.36

b. Turn the folded edge of the waist dart toward the side seam and press smooth and flat.

a. Turn the folded edge of the chest dart toward the armhole and press smooth and flat.

Press darts on fronts.35

AA12-16OSf-1301b. Fold fronts and stitch the waist dart in accordance with the marks indicated on the pattern. Taper the upper and lower ends to a flat point and securely tack the points.

AA12-16SSa-1 (cut edge) OSf-1

(folded edge)

301a. Fold the fronts, matching the notches of the chest darts. Stitch the entire length of the darts 3/8 inch from the notches at the upper end. Taper the line of stitching to zero at the lower end.

Assembly fronts. (cont'd)34

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

a. Press the shoulder blades and the armhole tape smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or suitable type pressing machine.

Press shoulder blades and armholes tapes.

b. The tape shall be stitched with slight tension along the lower front edge of the armhole and shall be held taut while stitching along the back edge.

AA12-16SSaa-1301a. Sew the cotton tape to the armhole starting with one end approximately 1 inch above the notch in the fronts and continuing along the lower and back edges of the armhole to approximately 1/2 inch from the shoulder edge.

Tape armholes.39

AA12-16SSaa-1301a. Seam the 3/4 inch wide polyester and cotton stays to the underside of the front at the shoulder edge and upper front edge of the armhole, 1/8 inch from the outer edge. The stay at the armhole shall extend from 1/2 inch below the shoulder seam down the front edge of armhole approximately 4-1/2 inches. The stay on the shoulder shall extend from approximately 1/2 inch from armhole and neck.

Finished appearance. The polyester and cotton reinforcement stay shall be sewn to the armhole and shoulder edges of the fronts without gathers, puckers, or pleats. The top end of the armhole stay and lower edge of the shoulder stay shall form a right angle at the armhole without the stays overlapping each other.

Seam reinforcement stay to armhole and shoulder.

c. Spread open the side and back seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

Join fronts and back. (cont'd)37

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

A (silk)

12-16SSe-2301c. Topstitch the coat to the piped edges uniformly, 3/16 inch from the folded edge of the piping, catching the turned under portion of the piping in the stitching.

b. Turn the piping to the inside, folding the corners smooth and flat and working out the folded edge of piping uniformly, 1/8 inch beyond the edges of the coat.

A (silk)

A (silk)

12-16SSa-1301a. Position the 1 inch wide strip of piping material on the outside of left and right fronts, with edge even with top, front, and bottom edges of coat. Stitch the piping to coat 1/8 inch from edge. The piping shall extend from the bottom right front edge to the collar notch at the top edge of left front.

Finished appearance. The piping shall be uniformly stitched to the coat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats. The piping shall extend from the collar notch at top edge of the right front, along the bottom and up to the collar notch at the top edge of the left front.

Stitch piping to coat.42

c. Where necessary, trim any frayed edges along the right front and bottom.

NOTE: The dressing and shaping shall be performed in the sewing room.

b. The mark line shall be 1 inch from the upper edge to 1-1/8 inches at the waistline. Continue on a straight line from the waistline to the notch at the bottom edge.

a. Mark and shape the left front edge from the top notch to the bottom front notch.

Mark and dress left front.41

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TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements - Continued.

MIL-DTL-82172D(MC)

a. Trim the top edge of coat interlining even with the top edge of fronts from the point of the shoulder to the collar notch.

Trim coat front interlining.44

Hopper

Hand or

b. Baste along the shoulder, allowing room for setting the shoulder pad, working the fullness in the fronts towards the armhole.

Baste along the front of the armhole approximately 1-1/2 inches from the edge. Continue to baste down the back edge of interlining, across the waist dart, to approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of fronts.

Baste along the top edge from the basting stitches for the shoulder to approximately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge. Continue to baste approximately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge to the bottom edge of the fronts.

Hopper

Hand or

a. Position the left and right fronts on the respective coat front interlinings. Baste the interlining and fronts together from approximately 3-1/2 inches down from the shoulder edge to approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge of the front.

Interline fronts.43

f. Press the piped edges of coat smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine.

70/2

70/2

70/2

70/2

6-8

6-8

EFd-1

EFd-1 or

e. Serge stitch the raw edge of the piping at the bottom edge of the coat only.

d. Notch out any excess piping material at the top and bottom front covers to eliminate bulkiness. Trim the inner edge of piping only on the left front from the upper front down to approximately 1 to 1-1/2 inches below waistline, so that the piping will not interfere…