Att 006 Napped French Terry Spec_04072021_RFP.pdf

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

INCH-POUND

MIL-TFM-001

6 April 2021

DETAIL SPECIFICATION

CLOTH, NAPPED FRENCH TERRY

This specification is approved for use by the United States Marine Corps and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

1. SCOPE.

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a Napped French Terry Cloth. The fabric is available in one type.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS.

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, documents users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-STD-3064 – Evaluation of Quality of Textile Materials

(Copies of these documents are available online at http://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.3 Other government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to Marine Corps Systems Command, 2200 Lester Street, Quantico, VA 22134 ATTN: SEAL-SE-STDS or emailed to USMC_STDZ_@usmc.mil.

Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the accuracy of this address information using the ASSIST Online database at (https://quicksearch.dla.mil).

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

COMBAT CAPABILITIES DEVELOPMENT COMMAND

http://quicksearch.dla.mil/ mailto:USMC_STDZ_@usmc.mil

MIL-TFM-001 dated 6 April 2021

Fabric Defect Replica Scales

(For Information on obtaining copies of the Fabric Defect Replica Scales please contact U.S. Army Combat Capabilities Development Command (CCDC), Soldier Center, ATTN: FCDD-SCP-WC, 10 General Greene Avenue, Natick, MA 01760-5019.)

FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION

Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

(Copies of this document are available online at http://www.ftc.gov.)

2.4 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM81 - pH of the Water- Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM135 - Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org/.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM E96 - Standard Test Methods for Water Vapor Transmission of Materials ASTM D1424 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling Pendulum (Elemendorf-

Type) Apparatus ASTM D3776/D3776M - Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D3787 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles- Constant-Rate of Traverse (CRT)

Ball Burst Test ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) ASTM F1358 - Effects of Flame Impingement

(Copies of these documents are available online at www.astm.org.)

INFORMA HEALTHCARE

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure –

Principles and Methods of Toxicology, A Wallace Hayes (editor).

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.crcpress.com.)

2.5 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Unless a specified exemption has been obtained, nothing in this document, supersedes applicable laws and regulations.

3. REQUIREMENTS

http://www.ftc.gov/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://asq.org/ http://www.astm.org/

3.1 Inspections.

3.1.1 First article. When specified (see 6.1), a sample shall be subjected to a first article inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.1.2 Conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.1), a sample shall be subjected to a conformance inspection in accordance with 4.4.

3.2 Standard sample. Unless otherwise indicated, the finished fabric shall match the standard sample (see 6.3) for shade and appearance, and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all other characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Materials. The materials shall conform to applicable specifications, and standards required herein.

3.4.1 Basic materials. The basic material for the knit base of the fabric shall be 100% wool.

3.5 Color. The basic material color shall be un-dyed natural.

3.6 Physical Requirements. The fabric shall be a single sided napped French Terry made from 100% wool fiber and shall meet the requirements stated in Table I, when tested as specified in 4.5.

Table I. Characteristic and requirements.

Characteristic Requirement Section 4 Reference Weight – ounces per square yard 10.5 – 12.5 Table IV Burst Strength Initial – pounds (minimum) 75 Table IV Break Strength – pounds (minimum), elongation (percent)

Table IV

Wales 50, 75 Table IV Courses 65, 125 Table IV Tear Strength Wales 4.0 Table IV Courses 8.0 Table IV MVTR - g/m2/24hr (minimum) Upright 1000 Table IV Inverted 3500 Dimensional Stability, percent (maximum) Table IV Wales 15 Table IV Courses 5 Table IV Effects of Flame Impingement No Melt/No Drip Table IV

3.7 Finish. The fabric shall be napped.

3.8 pH. The pH of the water extract of the finished (cloth) shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in Table IV.

3.9 Toxicity. The finished fabric shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.5.7. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.10 Length, width, and put-up.

3.10.1 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.1), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards, and each length shall be put-up on a roll as specified, when examined as specified in 4.5.4.

3.10.2 Width. For Government procurements only, the width of the finished cloths shall be as specified (see 6.1) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage.

3.11 Roll identification.

3.11.1 Face identification. The napped side shall be identified as the face. The face side of the fabric shall be rolled inward.

3.11.2 Fiber identification. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber products Identification Act when examined as specified with 4.2.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification, be uniform and free from defects specified in Table II. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the quality acceptance levels as specified in the contract or purchase order and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.3)

b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4)

4.2 Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.1), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.3 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1.1, shall be examined and tested in accordance with 4.4 through 4.5 for compliance with the appearance, color, finish, design, workmanship, and testing requirements specified in this document.

4.3.1 First article samples and acceptance criteria. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.1), a first article sample shall be provided. The sample unit shall be one (1) continuous 5-yard length of full width cloth.

The presence of excessive defects or failure of any testing (see 6.2) shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.4 Conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.1), conformance inspection, in accordance with 3.1.2, shall consist of the examinations and tests as specified in 4.4 through 4.5. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 and with acceptance quality limits as specified in the contract and/or order (see 6.1). The government reserves the right to inspect and test all components, materials, and end items to determine conformance to stated requirements.

4.4.1 Component and material inspection. unless otherwise stated In accordance with section 4, the components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards.

4.4.1.1 Wool. The wool shall be examined for grade in top form by comparison with the applicable U.S.

Standard. The sample unit shall be 1 yard of undyed top. The sample size shall conform to that in Table III. The lot size shall be expressed in units of one pound. The results from each sample unit shall be reported separately.

The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the grade requirement.

4.5 Inspection. Unless otherwise specified, excluded, amended, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents (see 6.1), all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents.

4.5.1 Visual Inspection. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard on the face side for defects in accordance with MIL-STD-3064, Type V. In the event of a conflict between the defects cited in MIL-STD- 3064 and those in Table II, the table takes precedence.

4.5.2 Roll identification and marking examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for defects as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5.3 Shade variation examination. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variation as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5.4 Length examination. For Government procurements only, during the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length as specified in MIL-STD-3064.

4.5.5 Classification of defects. The required yardage shall be examined for defects as listed in table II. The fabric shall be examined on the face side and the back side. The defects found shall be counted individually, regardless of their proximity to each other, except where two or more defects represent a single local condition of the cloth, in which case only one defect shall be counted. A continuous defect shall be counted as one defect for each yard or fraction of a yard in which it occurs. The sample unit shall be 1 linear yard. The lot size shall be expressed in units of 1 yard each. The acceptance quality limits (AQL) shall be as specified in the contract or order. The sample size and number of rolls shall be in accordance with Table III.

Table II. Defects.

Defect Description Points Any hole, cut, tear, abrasion mark. 4 Edge ravels when pulled outward. 4 Broken or missing yarn, dropped stitch, run. 4 Skewing. 4 Any spot, stain or streak more than 1-inch in combined directions. 4 Any mend. 4 Stretch (stitch tension) knitting tension too high or too loose, washboards. 4 Coarse or fine yarns resulting in noticeable differences in appearance stiffness and thickness.

Twist yarn. 4 Knots greater than Fabric Defect Replica Scale Level D. 4 Slubs greater than Fabric defect Replica Scale Level F. 4 Width not as specified within a tolerance of not less than ½ inch. 4 Color not a good match to reference. 4 Objectionable odor. 4 Slack or tight selvages (when applicable). 4 Any embedded foreign matter or uncleanness. 4 Edges rolled folded, creases, scalloped or corded, baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth. 4 Tackiness (sticky to touch). 4 Pile not napped. 4

4.5.6 Physical requirements verification. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.1), the cloth shall be examined for physical requirements.

4.5.6.1 Physical requirements testing. Unless otherwise specified in the contract (see 6.1), the cloth shall be examined for physical requirements listed in Table I. The methods of testing as specified whenever applicable and as listed in Table IV shall be followed.

4.5.6.2 Sampling and acceptance criteria for verification of physical requirements. Sampling shall be in accordance with table III. The sample unit shall be the five (5) continuous yards full width of the finished cloth per roll of cloth in the sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified in this document.

Table III. Physical requirements verification sampling.

Lot Size Sample Size (# of sample units) 800 or less 2

801 through 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5

Table IV: Physical requirements verification.

Characteristic Requirement Verification Weight Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M Burst Strength Initial Table I ASTM D3787 Break Strength, Elongation Wales Table I ASTM D1424 Courses Table I ASTM D 1424 Tear Strength Wales Table I ASTM D 5034 Courses Table I ASTM D 5034 MVTR, Upright Upright Table I ASTM E 96 Proc B, 24 hrs Inverted Table I ASTM E96 Proc BW, 2 hrs Dimensional Stability Wales Table I AATCC 135, 3 III Aiii Courses Table I AATCC 135, 3 III Aiii Effects of Flame Impingement Table I ASTM F1358 pH 3.8 AATCC TM81

4.5.7 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.1), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the fabric is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.4). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.9) can be demonstrated with historical use data on the finishing treatments used, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.1).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.1). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document, including any amendments.

b. The specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2, 2.3 and 2.4).

c. When first article sample is required (see 3.1.1, 4.3 and 6.2).

d. Number of first article inspection samples (see 4.3.1).

e. Color required.

f. Applicable Government patterns and drawings, including revisions.

g. National stock number.

h. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.2 First article. When first article inspection is required, the contracting officer should provide specific guidance to offerors whether the item(s) should be first article sample, a first production item, or a standard production item from the contractor’s current inventory, and the number of items to be tested as specified in 4.3.

Invitations for bids should provide that the Government reserves the right to waive the requirement for samples for first article inspection to those bidders offering a product which has been previously acquired or tested by the Government and that bidders offering such products, who wish to rely on such production or test, must furnish evidence with the bid that prior Government approval is presently appropriate for pending contract. Bidders should not alternate submit bids unless specifically requested to do so in the solicitation.

6.3 Standard sample. For standard samples, address the procuring activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

6.4 Visual shade matching. In 2019, Option A of AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles was changed to Option C.

NOTE: In case of confusion, the viewing geometry should be “The specimen plane and illumination source will be parallel to each other and aligned so that the light flux is incident at the center of the specimen plane, which is set at a 35° (± 5°) angle relative to the horizontal. The observer will view the specimens at a 90° angle, relative to the plane of the specimens.”

6.5 Sources of Supply.

100% Wool Napped French Terry, 11.5oz, Style # 2196.

Draper Knitting Company 28 Draper Lane Canton, MA 02021-1693 Phone: 1-800-808-7707 http://www.draperknitting.com/

6.6 Subject term (key word) listing.

Knit Wool http://www.draperknitting.com/

CONCLUDING MATERIAL

Custodians: Preparing activity:

Navy – MC Navy – MC

Review activities:

Army – GL Air Force – 11

NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using the ASSIST Online database at https://assist.dla.mil.

https://assist.dla.mil/