5100_92M (1) Pants Flame Resist.pdf

5100-92M

Amendment 1

November 3, 2023

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

FOREST SERVICE

SPECIFICATION

PANTS, FLAME-RESISTANT ARAMID

This amendment forms a part of Forest Service Specification 5100-92M dated January 15, 2010.

2.2.1, add the following:

V-B-871 – Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic)

2.2.1, delete reference to FD-STD-123 and replace with:

MIL-STD-129 – Marking for Shipment

2.2 – Delete: “1977-2005 - Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting, 2005 Edition” and replace with

1977 - Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting and Urban Interface Fire

Fighting, 2022 Edition

3.2 – Delete without replacement the second sentence: "In addition, the materials and components shall comply with

NFPA 1977 (3.1.1).”

Add the following:

3.2.1.1 Alternate cloth, front pockets (all types). As an alternate for the Type I or Type II front pocket material a

7.0 oz/sq.yd 100 percent (%) cotton material may be used for the front pockets only. The cloth shall meet the requirements of National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Standard 1977, Protective Clothing and

Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting and Urban Interface Firefighting. The color for the alternate material shall be Tan 499, Sage Green, and/or Ground Shade. The alternate material shall meet the following requirements:

Requirements for alternate front pockets material

Characteristic Requirement

Type I Type II

Weight, oz./sq.yd.

minimum 7.0 7.0 maximum 8.5 8.5

Breaking strength, pounds (minimum)

Warp 100 100

Filling 70 70

Tearing strength, pounds , Dry (minimum)

Warp 5.0 5.0

Filling 6.5 6.5

Dimensional stability, percent (After 5 laundering cycles)(maximum)

Warp and Filling:

5100-92M Amendment 1

Individual Sample 3.5 3.5

Lot Average 3.0 3.0

Laundering (4 Cycles) 1/

All colors (Color change and Staining) (minimum) 3.0 3.0

Crocking (wet and dry) 2/

All colors (minimum) 3.5 3.5

Perspiration (acid & alkaline)1/

All colors (Color change and Staining) (minimum) 3-4 3-4

Flame resistance:

Initial -

After Flame, seconds (maximum) 2.0 2.0

After Glow, seconds (maximum) 10.0 10.0

Char Length, inches (maximum) 4.0 4.0

Flame resistance:

After 25 launderings -

After Flame, seconds (maximum) 2.0 2.0

After Glow, seconds (maximum) 10.0 10.0

Char Length, inches (maximum) 4.0 4.0

3.2.5, 3.2.5.1, and 3.2.5.2, delete and replace with the following:

3.2.5 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to type II, class D, style 26, size 30-ligne of V-B-871. The button color for both type I and II pants shall be a Foliage Green 504, or a good approximation, and shall have a dull finish.

3.2.10.1 – delete the label as shown and replace with the following:

(The following information shall be printed in letters at least 3/32 inch in height)

THIS WILDLAND FIRE FIGHTING PROTECTIVE GARMENT MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS OF

NFPA 1977, STANDARD ON PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT FOR WILDLAND

FIRE FIGHTING AND URBAN INTERFACE FIRE FIGHTING, 2022 EDITION.(1/)

(The following information shall be printed with letters at least 1/16 inch in height.)

[Authorized mark of certifying organization] (2/)

DATE OF CERTIFICATION [mm/yy (as a minimum) ] (2/)

PANTS, FLAME-RESISTANT ARAMID, Type (I or II) (2/)

NSN: [ - - - ] (2/)

US FOREST SERVICE SPECIFICATION 5100-92M

MATERIALS CONTENT: (TYPE I: 93 % META-ARAMID, 5% PARA-ARAMID, 2%

ANTISTATIC or TYPE II: 60% PARA-ARAMID, 40% META-ARAMID BLEND)(2/)

SIZE: [ ] (2/)

[Manufacturer's name] (2/)

[Manufacturer's address] (2/)

[Country of origin] (2/)

CONTRACT NUMBER: [ ] (2/)

[Manufacturer's garment identification number, lot number, or serial number] (2/)

DATE OF MANUFACTURE: [mm/yy] (2/)

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

a. Machine wash hot. NO BLEACH.

b. Wash separately from flammable, lint-producing fabrics.

c. Rinse thoroughly. Soap or detergent residues will burn.

d. DO NOT STARCH. Starch will burn.

e. Tumble dry medium. Remove garment promptly.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL (3/)

1/ Or more current revision as applicable.

2/ The manufacturer shall insert the applicable information.

3/ When a split label is used, this legend shall appear on both labels.

Delete 3.2.10.2 and replace with the following:

3.2.10.2 Size label. The size label shall finish a minimum of 1 inch wide and shall be long enough to allow a 1/4 inch seam allowance at each end. The numbers and lettering for pants size shall be a minimum 3/8 inch high and a minimum 3/16 inch wide. The numbers and lettering for the NFES number shall be a minimum of 3/16 inch high and 1/8 inch wide. The label shall be white, the numbers and lettering shall be black. The size label shall consist of the waist range in inches and the inseam (SHORT, REG, or LONG), separated by a space (i.e. 26-30 SHORT), and the NFES number. The label shall be written like the following example:

30-34 REG

NFES

Add the following new paragraph:

3.2.12 Reflective Striping. The striping shall be 3M Scotchlite Reflective Material – Comfort Trim style #5535, segmented, 7/8 inch width. Reflective trim shall be applied using a heat press set at 350-375 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-20 seconds with 30-40 pounds per square inch. Striping is applied to cargo pocket flaps in accordance to

NTDP 1170. Striping adherence shall be tested according to 4.4.2.3.

Pants, Type I

Waist Range Short

NFES #

Reg

Long

24-28 2737 2738 - 26-30 2800 2700 2841 28-32 2801 2701 2843 30-34 2802 2702 2844 32-36 2803 2703 2845 34-38 2804 2704 2847 36-40 2805 2705 2848 38-42 2806 2706 2849 40-44 2807 2707 2850 42-46 - - - 44-48 2842 2846 2851 46-50 - - - 48-52 - - -

Pants, Type II

Waist Range Short

NFES #

Regular

24-28 - - - 26-30 2954 2955 - 28-32 2956 2944 - 30-34 2957 2945 - 32-36 2958 2946 2293 34-38 2959 2947 2294 36-40 2963 2948 2295 38-42 2964 2965 2296 40-44 2966 2967 - 42-46 - - - 44-48 - - - 46-50 - - - 48-52 - - -

Table I – delete and replace with the following:

Table I. List of pattern parts

Material Pattern nomenclature Cut parts

Basic material

(see 3.2.1)

Front 2

Back 2

Fly 2 right and 1 left

Cargo pocket 2

Cargo pocket flap 2

Hip pocket 2

Hip pocket flap 2

Waistband 1

Facing and Bearer 2

Front pocket 2

Alternate material

(see 3.2.1.1)

Front pocket 2

3.3, delete and replace with the following:

3.3 Design. The pants have two front quarter top pockets, two cargo pockets with flaps closed with hook and pile tape, two hip patch pockets with flaps closed with hook and pile tape, hemmed bottoms with cuff straps, zipper front closure, and waistband button closure.

3.5.5, delete and replace with the following:

3.5.5 Button. The complete and assembled buttons and thread shall sustain a pull of not less than 40 pounds without deforming or separation of the components or assembly.

Table III – delete Operation 6 and replace with the following:

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

Thread

6. Make two (2) front pockets

a. Attach Facing and Bearer. SN 301 LSd-1 9-13 70-80

b. Fold pocket in half with the insides out, position at notches and stitch to close bottom and back edge of pocket.

515 or 516 SSe-2(b) 9-13 70-80 (chainstitch)

35-40 (overedge)

c. Turn pockets right side out and topstitch 1/4

+/- 1/16 inch from bottom and back edge of pockets

301 SSe-2(b) 9-13 70-80

Table III – step 11, Delete “LSc 2” and replace with “LSas-2”

Table III – Step 25. Delete and replace with the following:

25. Set and topstitch waistbands

Finish appearance. The waistband shall be sewn on flat and smooth without fullness, gathers, or pleats. The waistband shall finish 1-1/2 1/8 inch.

NOTE: When attaching waistband, capture zipper tape in waistband.

a. Attach waistband to fronts and back with 1/8 inch gage stitching.

301 or 401 LSe-1 9-13 70-80

b. Top stitch top of waistband folded edge with 1/8 inch gage.

301 or 401 OSf-1 9-13 70-80

c. Overedge front waistband ends. 503 or 504 EFd-1 9-13 35-40

d. Turn in end of right waistband 2 1/8 inch and stitch along top of waistband 1/8 inch below top for 1-5/8 1/16 inch starting at the front edge; turn and stitch down to overlap stitching on right front by a minimum of 5/8 inch. The use of a “U-tack” on both ends of waistband is acceptable.

301 SSa-1 9-13 70-80

e. Turn in end of left waistband 2 1/8 inch and stitch along top of waistband 1/8 inch below top, for 1-5/8 1/16 inch starting at the front edge, turn and stitch down to overlap stitching on the left front curve by a minimum of 5/8 inch. The use of a “U-tack” on both ends of waistband is acceptable.

301 SSa-1 9-13 70-80

Table III – step 28, Delete Manufacturing operations “Bartack fly and front pockets” and replace with “Bartack fly, crotch, and front pockets”

Table III – add the following as step 28d:

28 d. Bartack between stitch lines of the crotch seam midway (+/- 1/2 inch) between the base of fly and seat/inseam junction

1/2 inch

Bartack

28 per bartack

35-40

Table III – Step 29b, delete and replace with:

b. Attach a tack button on right waistband to correspond with buttonhole in left fly at waistband, and in line with right fly slide fastener.

301 15-17 per button

70-80

4.3.2, delete "Button and Tack (3.2.5.1, 3.2.5.2)" and replace with the following:

Button (3.2.5.)

Add the following new paragraph:

4.3.4.1 Reflective Striping Adherence. To ensure proper striping adherence, first article submission shall include 2 additional complete pants that have endured 5 home-style (either top or front load) laundry cycles - wash (hot water, 115 – 135 F) and dry (high, 115 – 135 F). No signs of peeling, curling or cracking allowed.

Table IV – delete section labeled “Tack Button and Button Tack” and replace with the following:

Button

a. Missing. 3

b. Wrong type, size, color, or finish. 3

c. Misplaced. 1

d. Improperly set. 2

e. Button not clean, evidence of oil, grease, or dirt 1

f. Rough or sharp edge, burr or sliver, dent, dig, pits or wrinkle on button 2

g. Button cracked, broken, or malformed. 2

5.2 – Delete and replace with the following:

5.2 Packing. Thirty (30) pairs of pants of one size, packaged in accordance with 5.1.1 shall be packed into a Type CF, Style RSC, Variety SW, Grade 350 (55 ECT) of ASTM D 5118; size shall be 24" L x

15-1/2" W x 17" D, the closure shall be in accordance with method IV of the appendix. The box shall comply with the Uniform Freight Classification and the National Motor Freight Classification."

6.4 Known sources. Add the following new source:

Reflective Striping

3M Corporation

Minneapolis, MN

888-364-3577

Delete FIGURE 2 – PANTS – FRONT and replace with:

Delete FIGURE 3 – PANTS – BACK and replace with:

Delete Figure 4 and replace with the following:

User Instructions (Remove only by end user)

Pants, Flame-resistant. US Forest Service Specification – 5100-92

1. Pre-Use Information

a) Safety Considerations. Use this garment in conjunction with all other required PPE, including helmet, gloves, flame-resistant shirt, leather boots and fire shelter. This garment should be used only by personnel who have completed the required formal training courses for wildland fire fighting operations and fully understand the limitations and use of this garment.

b) This garment provides limited thermal and physical protection from the hazards associated with wildland fire fighting.

c) This garment should not be marked.

d) The protective properties of this garment cannot be tested by users in the field.

e) The contractor warranties this garment to be free from defects in workmanship and materials for one year after date of purchase. The warranty assumes that the garment is used by trained personnel following accepted wildland fire fighting procedures.

2 Preparation for Use, Donning/Doffing

a) Sizing/Adjustment: Pants should be loose fitting. Pants are available in 6 waist sizes with short, regular or long inseam length options.

b) Interface Issues: These pants are an outer garment; undergarments should be made of 100% cotton, wool, silk, aramid or other flame resistant materials.

c) Recommended storage: Clean and dry these pants properly before storage. Store in a dry place - out of direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.

3. Inspection Frequency and Details

Inspect garment upon receipt and after each cleaning. Inspect for holes, tears and proper operation of fasteners.

4. Maintenance and Cleaning

a) Do not use this garment if it is not thoroughly cleaned and dried.

b) Machine wash in hot water, NO BLEACH. Wash separately from flammable, lint producing fabrics. Rinse thoroughly, soap and detergent residues will burn. Do not starch. Tumble dry medium and remove promptly.

5. Decontamination Procedures

a) Decontamination is dependent upon what the protective clothing has been exposed to; however chlorine bleach cannot be used under any circumstances.

b) For extreme contamination with products of combustion or fire debris, remove the contaminants by flushing with water as soon as possible, followed by appropriate cleaning.

6. Retirement/Disposal Criteria

It is recommended that individual units establish their own criteria for routine inspection and subsequent repair or retirement of this garment.

7. Proper use should be consistent with NFPA 1500, Standard on Fire Department Occupational Safety and Health Program, and 29 CFR 1910.132, “Personal Protective Equipment.”

Figure 4

User Instructions

Add the following to Drawing MTDC 973F dated October 9, 2009:

January 15, 2010 Superceding 5100-92L August 19, 2008

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

FOREST SERVICE

SPECIFICATION

PANTS, FLAME-RESISTANT ARAMID

1. SCOPE AND CLASSIFICATION

1.1 Scope. This document covers the requirements for flame-resistant pants.

1.2 Classification. The pants shall be of following type and sizes, all dimensions in inches (see 6.2):

Type I - Meta-Aramid Fiber Blend Type II - Para-Aramid Fiber Blend

Size - Waist range - length (Short, Reg or Long)

Waist Range

Short

Inseam Regular

24-28 30 33 36 26-30 30 33 36 28-32 30 33 36 30-34 30 33 36 32-36 30 33 36 34-38 30 33 36 36-40 30 33 36 38-42 30 33 36 40-44 30 33 36 42-46 30 33 36 44-48 30 33 36 46-50 30 33 36 48-52 30 33 36

Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data that may be used in improving this document should be addressed to: USDA Forest Service, Missoula Technology and

Development Center, 5785 Highway 10 West, Missoula, MT 59808, ddavis02@fs.fed.us.

FSC 8415

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 Government documents.

2.1.1 Specifications and standards. The following specifications and standards form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those in effect on the date of the invitation for bids or request for proposals.

SPECIFICATIONS

FEDERAL

A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-55126 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55217 - Thread, Aramid, Spun Staple A-A-55634 - Zippers (Interlocking Slide Fasteners)

USDA FOREST SERVICE

5100-88 - Cloth, Trouser, Aramid

STANDARDS

FEDERAL

FED-STD-123 - Marking for Shipment (Civil Agencies) FED-STD-376 - Preferred Metric Units for Use By the Federal Government

(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications and standards are available online at http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or in hard copy from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. Copies of USDA Forest Service specifications are available from the preparing activity, 6.7)

2.1.2 Other Government documents. The following other Government documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those in effect on the date of the invitation for bids or request for proposals.

DRAWINGS

USDA FOREST SERVICE

MTDC-973 - Patterns, Pants

(Copies are available from USDA Forest Service, Missoula Technology and Development Center, 5785 Highway 10 West, Missoula, MT 59808.)

2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those in effect on the date of the invitation for bids or request for proposals.

http://assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available from the American Society for Quality, PO Box 3005, Milwaukee, WI 53201- 3005.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM)

D 1974 - Standard Practice for Methods of Closing, Sealing, and Reinforcing Fiberboard Boxes D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging D 5118 - Standard Practice for Fabrication of Fiberboard Shipping Boxes D 6193 - Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams SI-10 - Standard For Use of the International System of Units (SI): The Modern Metric System (IEEE/ASTM Standard available from ASTM)

(Copies are available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Website: http://www.astm.org/.).)

NATIONAL FIRE PROTECTION ASSOCIATION (NFPA)

1977-2005 - Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting, 2005 Edition

(Copies are available from National Fire Protection Association, 1 Batterymarch Park, P.O. Box 9101, Quincy, MA 02269-9101.)

NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT

National Motor Freight Classification

(Copies are available from American Trucking Association, Inc., Traffic Department, 1616 P St. NW, Washington, DC 20036.)

(Non-Government standards and other publications normally are available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), only sample pants with regular (33 inch) inseams shall be submitted for first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.3. During the term of the contract the contractor shall be required to notify the contracting officer in writing when a component, or the component supplier, changes in any way; when a major manufacturing process changes in any way; or when a manufacturing location changes. The contracting officer may at any time require the contractor to submit a new first article sample when substantive changes occur during the term of the contract.

3.1.1 NFPA 1977. The pants shall be third party certified as being in compliance with National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Standard 1977, Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wildland Fire Fighting. Proof of this certification shall be presented at the time of First Article submission.

3.2 Materials and components. Materials and components shall be as specified herein and in the applicable drawing, MTDC-973. In addition, the materials and components shall comply with NFPA 1977 (3.1.1).

3.2.1 Basic material. The Type I basic material shall be in accordance with the requirements of Type I of USDA Forest Service specification 5100-88. The Type II basic material shall be in accordance with the requirements of Type II of USDA Forest Service specification 5100-88.

3.2.2 Thread. The aramid thread shall conform to Type I, Tex size 35-40 and Tex size 70-80, or Type II, Tex size 27 and Tex size 60, of A-A-55217. Thread color shall be a good approximation of the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.3 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to Soft Finish Tex 210, or Glazed Finish Tex 180 or 210, of A-A-50198. The color shall be a good approximation of the basic material (3.2.1).

3.2.4 Zipper. The zipper shall be brass with a short tab pull, and shall conform to Type I, Style 1, Size 1-2 or 3-4 of A-A-55634, the tape shall be spun aramid. The color of the tape shall be black.

3.2.5 Button and tack. The button and tack materials shall be of the quality normally used by the manufacturer for tack buttons and button tacks. Material composition and thickness shall withstand the forming operations without wrinkling or cracking.

3.2.5.1 Button. The 27 ligne tack button shall have a flat antique brass front shell with an epoxy finish. YKK Snap Fasteners, Inc. Part No. 0450000346 meets this requirement (see 6.4).

3.2.5.2 Tack. The button tack shall be YKK Snap Fasteners, Inc. Part No. 5040000310C.

3.2.6 Waist take-up tape. The waist take-up tape shall be 5/8 inch wide aramid tape, and shall be C.M. Offray & Son, Inc., style #70-6185-2007-5/8 inch, color black (see 6.4).

3.2.7 Double-bar buckle. The double-bar buckle for the waist take-up shall be Albest Metal Stamping Corp. part no. BB340-10BD, 5/8 inch, black; or ITW Waterbury part number 00482-09- 21883(see 6.4).

3.2.8 Leg cuff adjuster metal loop. The metal loop shall be 1-1/16 inch x 3/8 inch, wire thickness

0.105 inch, welded steel, black finish, Albest Metal Stamping Corp. part no. WR17x6-12 BWBD meets this requirement (see 6.4).

3.2.9 Fastener tape, hook and pile. The hook and pile fastener tape shall conform to 1 inch width, type II, class 1 of A-A-55126. The color of the tape shall be green.

3.2.10 Labels. Each pair of pants shall have two labels which shall include a combination identification/instruction/care label and a size label. The labels may be woven or non-woven, and shall meet the requirements of NFPA 1977.

3.2.10.1 Combination label. The combination identification/care label shall meet the product labeling requirements of NFPA 1977. :

(The following information shall be printed in letters at least 3/32 inch in height)

THIS WILDLAND FIRE FIGHTING PROTECTIVE GARMENT MEETS THE REQUIREMENTS

OF NFPA 1977, STANDARD ON PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT FOR

WILDLAND FIRE FIGHTING, 2005 EDITION.

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL (1/)

(The following information shall be printed with letters at least 1/16 inch in height.)

PANTS, FLAME-RESISTANT ARAMID, Type (I or II) 2/ [Manufacturer's name] (2/) [Manufacturer's address] (2/) [Country of origin] (2/) [Manufacturer's garment identification number, lot number, or serial number] (2/) DATE OF MANUFACTURE: [mm/yy] (2/)

USDA FOREST SERVICE SPECIFICATION 5100-92M

SIZE: [ ] (2/)

CONTRACT NUMBER: [ ] (2/)

NSN: [ ] (2/)

MATERIALS CONTENT: (TYPE I: 93 % META-ARAMID, 5% PARA-ARAMID, 2%

ANTISTATIC. TYPE II: 62% PARA-ARAMID, 37% ARAMID, 1% ANTISTATIC.)2/

[Authorized mark of certifying organization] (2/) DATE OF CERTIFICATION [mm/yy (as a minimum) ] (2/)

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

a. Machine wash hot. NO BLEACH.

b. Wash separately from flammable, lint-producing fabrics.

c. Rinse thoroughly. Soap or detergent residues will burn.

d. DO NOT STARCH. Starch will burn.

e. Tumble dry medium. Remove garment promptly.

1/ When a split label is used, this legend shall appear on both labels."

2/ The manufacturer shall insert the applicable information.

3.2.10.2 Size label. The size label shall finish a minimum of 1 inch wide and shall be long enough to allow a 3/8 inch seam allowance at each end. The numbers and lettering shall be a minimum 3/8 inch high and a minimum 3/16 inch wide. The label shall be white, the numbers and lettering shall be black. The size label shall consist of the waist range in inches and the inseam (SHORT, REG, or LONG), separated by a space (i.e. 26-30 SHORT).

3.2.11 End user instructions. End User Instructions meeting the requirements of NFPA 1977 shall be supplied with each pair of pants, see figure 4.

3.3 Design. The pants have two front quarter top pockets, two cargo pockets with flaps closed with hook and pile tape, two hip patch pockets with flaps closed with hook and pile tape, hemmed bottoms with cuff straps, zipper front closure, and waistband tack button closure.

3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns (MTDC-973) will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The contractor's working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide an allowance of 3/8 inch for all joining seams, unless otherwise specified.

3.4.1 List of pattern parts. The pants shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated in table I, except belt loops and leg cuff adjustment straps. See table III, operation 16, for cutting requirements for the belt loops. See table III, operation 17 for the requirements for the leg cuff adjustment straps.

Table I. List of pattern parts

Material Pattern nomenclature Cut parts

Basic material Front 2 (see 3.2.1) Back 2 Fly 2 right and 1 left Cargo pocket 2 Cargo pocket flap 2 Hip pocket 2 Hip pocket flap 2 Waistband 1 Front pocket 2

3.5 Construction.

3.5.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in table III shall conform to ASTM D 6193. When two or more seams or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the chain, or under side of the stitch, shall be on the inside of the pants. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. For stitch type 301 the lock shall be imbedded in the materials sewn. Edge stitching and top stitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the garment. Seams required to be worked out, that have a depth between the fold of 1/16 inch or more shall be considered a nonconformity.

3.5.1.1 Safety and overedge stitching. The gage of safety stitching shall be 5/16 or 3/8 inch. The gage of overedge stitching and the overedge portion of safety stitching shall be 3/16 or 1/4 inch.

The guides and knives for the safety stitch and overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.5.1.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/2 inch.

Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches and thread breaks for 401 stitch type may be repaired using 301 stitch type.

The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except labels and automatic stitching) shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label and automatic stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches.

3.5.1.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in table III.

3.5.2 Puckering. In the course of the sampling examination, seams suspected of being puckered shall be examined, at a distance of 3 feet, any seam that is puckered for 2 or more inches so that it causes visible distortion of the garment, shall be scored as a puckered seam.

3.5.3 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be eyelet-end tapered bar type worked over gimp with not less than four tacking stitches at bar end catching gimp ends (not counting crossover stitch). The purling shall be on outside of waistband. The cut length shall be 3/4 to 7/8 inch. The buttonhole shall be clean-cut with the stitching securely caught in the fabric.

3.5.4 Bartacks. Unless otherwise specified, bartacks shall be as follows (bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching):

Min. Stitches Length Width Per Bartack 1/2 ± 1/16 inch 1/8 ± 1/32 inch 28 3/4 ± 1/16 inch 1/8 ± 1/32 inch 42

3.5.5 Button and tack. The complete and assembled buttons and tacks shall sustain a pull of not less than 60 pounds without deforming or separation of the components or assembly. The back and front of the finished buttons and tacks shall be clean and free from any rough or sharp edge, burr or sliver, oil, dents, digs, pits, wrinkle, grease or dirt. Buttons and tacks shall not be cracked, broken, or malformed. The set button and tack parts shall not rotate when twisted. The distance between the top of the button to the bottom of a tack when set shall be 0.335 0.010 inch.

3.6 Manufacturing operations. The pants shall be manufactured in accordance with all operation requirements specified in table III. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations provided the finished pants are identical to those produced by following the sequence listed in table III. Any additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided that the thread is removed or does not show on the finished pants.

3.6.1 Shade and size marking. The cut parts of the pants shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of marking may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets that discolor the material or leave traces of paper or adhesive on material after ticket removal.

3.7 Finished measurements. Finished measurements shall be as specified in table II.

Table II, Finished Measurements

Size 1/2 Waist (+/-1/4)

(1/)

Inseam (+/-1/2)

(2/)

24-28 14 30, 33, 36 26-30 15 30, 33, 36 28-32 16 30, 33, 36 30-34 17 30, 33, 36 32-36 18 30, 33, 36 34-38 19 30, 33, 36 36-40 20 30, 33, 36 38-42 21 30, 33, 36 40-44 22 30, 33, 36 42-46 23 30, 33, 36 44-48 24 30, 33, 36 46-50 25 30, 33, 36 48-52 26 30, 33, 36

1/One-half waist measurement taken along top edge of waistband, with waistband buttoned from folded edge to folded edge.

2/Inseam measurement taken from crotch seam to bottom edge of leg hem.

3.8 Deviations and waivers. Deviations and waivers to the materials or construction specified herein shall not be allowed unless authorized in writing by the contracting officer.

3.9 Workmanship. The finished pants shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. The occurrence of nonconformities shall not exceed the applicable acceptable point values. The finished pants shall conform to NFPA 1977 requirements for protective clothing.

3.10 Metric products. Products manufactured to metric dimensions will be considered on an equal basis with those manufactured using inch/pound units, provided they fall within the tolerances specified using conversion tables contained in the latest revision of IEEE/ASTM SI-10, and all other requirements of this specification are met.

3.11 Recovered materials. The contractor is encouraged to use recovered material in accordance with Federal Acquisition Regulation 23.4 to the maximum extent practical.

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

Thread

1. Cutting

a. Cut pants in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show directional lines, size, placement of pockets and pocket flaps, and notches for proper assembly of all parts. Unless otherwise specified, directional lines shall be placed in the warp direction. The face of the fabric shall finish on the outside of the pants. The use of drill holes will be acceptable provided they are covered by other parts of the seam allowance; otherwise, exposed drill holes shall be considered as holes in the fabric.

NOTE: Except where noted, the patterns provided only address the right side for the major parts. The left side is produced using a mirror image of the provided patterns.

b. Directional lines on the fronts and backs may vary from the warp direction by not more than 1-1/2 inches. Measurements shall be taken at top and bottom edges of the pattern from the directional line to the selvage edge (on the even side of the lay) of the fabric and the difference between the two measurements shall not exceed 1-1/2 inches.

c. Cut all parts of the pants from the same piece of basic material except fly parts, belt loops, pocket facings, and flap linings

(when made of two-piece construction), which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall approximate the shade of the pants.

d. Cut the stripping for the belt loops of sufficient length and width to comply with operation 16.

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

e. Cut two pieces of pile tape and two pieces of hook tape 1-1/2

1/8 inches long for the hip pocket flap closure (see operations 4 and 5).

f. Cut two pieces of pile tape and two pieces of hook tape 4-1/2

1/8 inches long for the cargo flap closure (see operations 7 and 8).

g. Cut 4 pieces of tape for the waist take-up, 2 pieces 3 inches long and 2 pieces 6 inches long.

h. Cut 2, 4-1/4 inch long pieces of pile tape and 2, 4-1/4 inch long pieces of hook tape for the leg cuff adjustment straps.

i. Cut the stripping for the leg cuff adjustment straps of sufficient length and width to comply with operations 17.

2. Replacement of nonconforming components

During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components having material nonconformities or damages that are classified in 4.3.4.1 shall be removed from production and replaced with conforming and properly matched components.

3. Marking

a. Mark or ticket all component parts of the pants, except parts cut from ends, to ensure correct size and uniform shade throughout the pants.

b. The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil will be acceptable provided the numbers do not show through the outside of the garment or are covered by the seam allowance.

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No.

Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

NOTE: The Contractor may alter the order of steps in order to accommodate seam construction.

4. Make hip pocket flaps (2)

a. Fold flap in half, correct side back to back. Close ends. 301 SSe-2(a) 9-13 35-40

b. Turn, and work out corners.

c. Topstitch flaps 1/4 inch from the sides and bottom edge. 301 SSe-2(b) 9-13 35-40

d. Overedge top edges of both plies of pocket flap together. 503 or 504 SSa-1 9-13 35-40

e. Position the hook tape (see operation 1f) on the face of the flap as indicated by marks on the pattern and stitch 1/8 1/16 inch from the edge on all four sides.

301 LSbj-1 7-12 70-80

5. Make outside patch hip pockets (2)

a. Hem top of patch pockets with the raw edges turned in and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. The pocket hem shall finish

1-1/4 1/8 inch wide.

301 EFb-1 9-13 35-40

b. Position pile tape on outside of pocket to coincide on finished pant with hook tape on pocket flap (operation 4) and stitch

1/16 to 3/32 inch from edges on all four sides through hem and pocket.

c. Turn in bottom and side edges and crease for setting

6. Make two (2) front pockets

a. Fold pocket in half with the insides out, position at notches and stitch to close bottom and back edge of pocket.

or 516

SSe-2(a) 9-13 70-80 (chainstitch)

35-40 (overedge)

b. Turn pockets right side out and topstitch 1/4 1/16 inch from bottom and back edge of pockets.

301 SSe-2(b) 9-13 70-80

7. Make cargo pocket flaps (2)

a. Fold flap in half, correct side back to back. Close ends. 301 SSe-2(a) 9-13 35-40

b. Turn, and work out corners.

c. Topstitch flaps 1/4 inch from the sides and bottom edge. 301 SSe-2(b) 9-13 35-40

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

d. Overedge top edges of both plies of pocket flap together. 503 or 504 SSa-1 9-13 35-40

e. Position the hook tape (see operation 1f) on the face of the flap as indicated by marks on the pattern and stitch 1/8 1/16 inch from the edge on all four sides of each strip.

8. Make cargo pockets

a. Fold the front pleat at marks indicated on pattern so folded pleat edge faces towards the rear on the finished pants. Stitch along the folds, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

301 OSf-1 9-13 35-40

b. Fold the rear bellows at marks indicated on pattern, so that fold is oriented the same as the front pleat. Stitch along both folds, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

301 OSf-1 9-13 35-40

c. Hem top of cargo pockets with the raw edges turned under and stitched 1/16 to 1/8 inch from both the top and bottom folded edges. The pocket hem shall finish 1-1/4 1/8 inch wide.

Alternatively, stitching along top of hem may be omitted as long as the middle bellow is stitched vertically from the bottom folded edge stitch line to the top folded edge of the pocket.

301 EFt-2 9-13 35-40

d. Position pile tape on outside of pocket hem to coincide with hook tape on flap (operation 7e) and stitch 1/8 1/16 inch from edges on all four sides of each strip through hem.

301 LSbj-1 7-12 70-80

e. Horizontally bartack pleat at hem stitch line. 1/2 inch

Bartack

28 per bartack 35-40

f. Turn in bottom and side edges and crease for stitching.

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

9. Make left fly

a. Overedge left side of left fly from bottom edge to top. 503 or 504 EFd-1 9-13 35-40

b. Position left side of zipper on left fly so the edge of chain will be 1/2 to 5/8 inch from front edge of finished fly at both top and bottom, with the bottom end of the chain 1/4 to 1/2 inch above fly notch. Top end of zipper tape shall extend a minimum of 3/8 inch into waistband. An individual or continuous type zipper chain may be used. Attach with a

3/16 or 1/4 inch gage double needle stitch; the first row shall be 1/8 to 3/16 inch back of the chain.

301 or 401 SSau-2 9-13 70-80

10. Make right fly

Option 1 – One piece

Fold lengthwise with outside facing out, top stitch front and bottom of fly single stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

Or

Option 2 – Two pieces.

301 or 401

OSf-1

9-13

35-40

a. With outsides facing each other, sew the front and bottom edge of the two pieces of the right fly together..

301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 9-13 35-40

b. Turn fly correct side out, force out edges and topstitch on the front of fly, with a single stitch, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

301 or 401 SSe-2(b) 9-13 35-40

11. Attach flys to front and join crotch seam

a. Stitch left fly to left front, with bottom of fly matching notch. 301 SSe-2(a) 9-13 70-80

b. Turn and topstitch fly, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. 301 SSe-2(b) 9-13 70-80

c. Position back edges of right front, right zipper tape, and right fly together and safety stitch through all layers, 3/16 inch gage to the notch/bottom of fly.

515 or 516 SSa-2 9-13 70-80 (chainstitch)

35-40 (overedge)

d. Turn right front toward side seam and topstitch through all layers, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge. The stitching shall be continued along crotch from notch, with the right front turned to outside, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 9-13 70-80

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

e. Turn left fly and stitch up from bottom forming fly curve and continue stitching to top of waistband. Stitching shall be 1-1/2

1/8 inch from front of fly.

301 LSbj-1 9-13 70-80

f. Turn edge of left front crotch seam to inside and double stitch, catching the right front crotch seam with both rows of stitching through right fly. The double stitching shall be 3/16 to 1/4 inch gage with the outer row of stitching 1/16 inch to

1/8 inch from the folded edge. The top end of stitching shall terminate at the stitching along the back edge of the left fly.

301 LSc-2 9-13 70-80

12. Set two (2) front pockets

a. Position pocket to front at notches and attach with single stitch. 301 or 401 SSe-2(a) 9-13 70-80

b. Turn front back and roll out welt so stitching finishes to the inside.

c. Stitch pocket welt, 3/16 to 1/4 inch gage from edge. 301 SSe-2(b) 9-13 70-80

13. Attach combination label to jean backs

Position label(s) on left back so that on the finished pants it(they) will be under the hip pocket, will face the wearer and the top will be toward the top of the pants. Stitch on all four sides (of each label) 1/16 to 1/4 inch from edge. The stitching shall not be through the printing.

301 LSbj-1 7-11 35-40

14. Set hip pockets and flaps

a. Position hip pocket on each back panel at location marks and attach with a double stitch 1/4 inch gauge with outside row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSd-2 9-13 70-80

b. Fold under top edge of flap. Position flap so that the top of the flap shall measure approximately 3/4 inch from the top of the pocket, making sure pocket hem and opening are completely covered by the flap and that the flap is aligned with the pocket.

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

c. Double stitch flap 1/4 inch gage with the top row of stitching

1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

301 LSd-2 9-13 70-80

15. Bartack hip pockets and flaps

Horizontally bartack the ends of the pocket openings; the bartacks shall capture the ends of both stitch lines of the pocket attachment stitching. Pocket opening shall not finish less than

5-3/8 inches between bartacks for all sizes. For the flaps only, the flap attachment stitch lines shall be backstitched ½ inch..

1/4 inch

Bartack

21 per bartack 35-40

16. Make seven belt loops (operation 25)

a. All the loops shall measure 5/8 to 3/4 inch in width. The belt loops shall be cut of sufficient length to measure 2-1/8 to 2-

1/2 inches between bartacks on finished pants. The end turnunders of all the belt loops shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch.

b. Fold underside raw edges with edges abutted and double stitch length of loop, with stitching 1/4 to 1/2 inch gage, using coverstitch on the underside.

406 or 402 EFh-1 9-13 35-40

17. Make leg cuff adjustment straps

a. Straps shall measure 1 inch in width, and 5-3/4 and 2-1/2 inches in length.

b. Fold underside raw edges with edges abutted and double stitch length of strap, with stitching ¼ to ½ inch gage, using coverstitch on the underside.

406 or 402 EFh-1 9-13 35-40

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

18. Join side seams

Option 1

a. Join side seams with a safety stitch catching the back edge of front pockets, continue stitching to the knee, fold knee pleat so edge faces down on the outside of pants and catch the fold in the seaming, continue stitching to the placement marks for the leg cuff adjustment strap. Insert the 2-1/2 inch strap with metal loop into the seam and continue the safety stitch to the bottom edge of the seam. The coverstitched face of the strap shall be to the inside of the loop.

515 or 516 SSa-2 9-13 70-80

(chainstitch)

35-40

(overedging)

b. Fold seam edge to rear and top stitch 1/16 to 1/8 gage from top to 1/2 inch below cargo pocket flap location.

301 LSq-2 9-13 70-80

c. Horizontally bartack bottom of opening of front pocket ¼ inch on the rear panel and ¾ inch on the front panel.

1-inch bartack 48 per bartack 35-40

d. Fold the 2-1/2 inch leg cuff adjustment strap with metal loop to the outside rear of pants and place a 3/4 inch bartack on the front panel vertically 1/8 inch from side seam, capturing all layers of seam material.

3/4 inch bartack

42 per bartack 35-40

OR

Option 2

a. Join side seams with full feld seam the entire length. Fold knee pleat so that edge faces down. Insert the 2-1/2 inch strap with metal loop at placement marks.

NOTE: Contractor must adjust pattern for 3/8 inch full feld seam in lieu of 3/8 inch safety stitch seam.

301 or 401 LSc-2 9-13 70-80

b. Horizontally bartack bottom of opening of front pocket through both front and rear panels.

1-inch bartack 48 per bartack 35-40

c. Fold the 2-1/2 inch leg cuff adjustment strap with metal loop to the outside rear of pants and place a 3/4 inch bartack along the center line of the seam.

3/4 inch bartack

42 per bartack 35-40

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

19. Set cargo pockets and flaps

a. Position cargo pocket at location marks on sideseams and attach with a single row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

The pocket opening shall finish 8-1/4 ±1/8 wide at the top.

The upper stitched edge of the pocket bellows shall fall 1/8 inch inside the stitch line on the rear pocket edge.

Alternatively, allow the upper stitched edge of the pocket bellows to align with the pocket edge. Contractor may modify cargo pocket pattern to accommodate this alternative.

301 LSd-1 9-13 70-80

b. Fold under top edge of flap. Position flap so that the top of the flap shall measure approximately 3/4 inch from the top of the pocket, making sure pocket hem and opening are completely covered by the flap and that the flap is aligned with the pocket.

c. Double stitch flap 1/4 inch gage with the top row of stitching

1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.

301 LSd-2 9-13 70-80

20. Bartack cargo pockets and flaps

Bartack the bottom of the bellows rear edge of the pocket;

alternatively, the bartack may be placed vertically at the bottom of the bellows vertical stitch line. Bartack the ends of the pocket openings vertically on the front panel, for the rear panel bartack horizontally 1/4 inch from top edge; vertically bartack bottom front corner of flap 1/4 inch from front edge.

The bartacks shall be superimposed on the pocket stitching and on the raised stitching of the flap. For the flaps only, at the manufacturer's option, the stitch lines may be backstitched

1/2 inch in lieu of bartacking.

1/2 inch

21. Waistband label

Attach size label on left inside surface of the waistband. Sew on all four sides 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge.

301 or

LSbj-1 7-11 35-40

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

22. Seatseam

(Option 1)

a. Position left and right backs at base of fly and tandem needle stitch bottom to top 1/2 inch from each edge. Rows of tandem needle stitching shall be between 1/64 to 1/32 inch apart.

Needles shall be offset to form staggered stitches.

401 SSa-2 9-13 each needle

70-80

b. Overedge seatseam. 503 or 504 SSa-1 9-13 35-40

c. Fold seam edge to left rear panel and top stitch 1/8 to 3/16 gage 301 or 401 LSq-2 9-13 70-80

(Option 2)

Join rear panels using full feld seam for entire length of seam.

NOTE: Contractor must adjust pattern for 3/8 inch full feld seam in lieu of 1/2 inch superimposed (safety stitch) seam.

301 or 401 LSc-2 9-13 70-80

23. Join inseams

The seat and seam crotch seams shall not be staggered more than

3/8 inch (measured from the center of the seams). Fold the knee pleats so the edges face down on outside of pant leg and catch the folds in the seaming

a. (Option 1) Safety stitch join the inseams in one continuous operation.

515 or 516 LSq-2(a) 9-13 70-80

(chainstitch)

35-40

(overedging)

b. Fold seam edge to rear and top stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch gage. 301 or 401 LSq-2(b) 9-13 70-80

(Option 2) Join inseams using a full feld seam the entire length.

NOTE: Contractor must adjust pattern for 3/8 inch full feld seam in lieu of 3/8 inch safety stitch seam.

301 or 401 LSc-2 9-13 70-80

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

24. Attach fastener slide and stop (when using continuous chain)

a. Position and attach fastener slide.

b. Attach fastener stop at base and top of right fly.

25. Set and topstitch waistbands

Finish appearance. The waistband shall be sewn on flat and smooth without fullness, gathers, or pleats. The waistband shall finish 1-1/2 1/8 inch.

NOTE: When attaching waistband, capture zipper tape in waistband.

a. Attach waistband to fronts and backs with 1/8 inch gage stitching for the bottom row and 1/8 inch gage stitching for the top waistband folded edge.

301 or 401 BSc-2 9-13 70-80

b. Overedge front waistband ends. 503 or 504 EFd-1 9-13 35-40

c. Turn in end of right waistband 2 1/8 inch and stitch along top of waistband 1/8 inch below top for 1-5/8 1/16 inch starting at the front edge; turn and stitch down to overlap stitching on right front by a minimum of 5/8 inch. The use of a “U-tack” on both ends of waistband is acceptable.

301 SSa-1 9-13 70-80

d. Turn in end of left waistband 2 1/8 inch and stitch along top of waistband 1/8 inch below top, for 1-5/8 1/16 inch starting at the front edge, turn and stitch down to overlap stitching on the left front curve by a minimum of 5/8 inch. The use of a “U-tack” on both ends of waistband is acceptable.

301 SSa-1 9-13 70-80

26. Attach waist take-up

a. Thread one of the pieces of waist take-up tape around one bar of a double bar buckle. On the outside of the pants, attach above the side seam 3/8 inch above bottom edge of waistband with a bartack as shown in Figure 1.

1/2 inch

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

b. On the outside of the pants, position the folded under end of the

6 inch piece of take-up tape 4-1/2 inches to the rear of the loop attachment(26a), 3/8 inch above the bottom edge of the waistband, with the free end pointing to the front, and attach with a bartack. Repeat on other side.

1/2 inch

Bartack

28 per bartack 35-40

c. Thread the loose end of the long pieces through the double bar buckle as shown in figure 1. Double fold the loose end toward the outside of the pants and bartack.

1/2 inch

27. Attach belt loops

Position belt loops as follows:

a. One on each outseam, with seam allowance folded to one side.

b. One centered between the outseam and center front of the pants.

c. One on right back and one left back midway (1/2 inch) between outseam and seatseam.

d. One centered on seatseam, with seam allowance folded to one side.

e. Fold under belt loop ends and horizontally bartack 1/8 inch from folded ends. Top of belt loops shall finish even with top of waistband.

1/2 inch

LSd-1 28 per bartack 35-40

28. Bartack fly and front pockets

a. Bartack the fly horizontally at base of fly stitching at the junction of the crotch seam and fly, crossing crotch seam by

1/8 inch.

1/2 inch

Bartack

28 per bartack 35-40

b. Bartack right and left fly together on inside, at bottom outside corner

1/2 inch

Bartack

28 per bartack 35-40

c. Bartack the top of the front pocket openings across the pocket welt.

1/2 inch

Table III. Manufacturing Operations Requirements (continued)

No. Manufacturing operations Stitch type

Seam and stitching type

Stitches

29. Attach waistband button and buttonhole

a. Make horizontal…