IPM info w GSA and Others (1).docx

The Secretary of Agriculture, in cooperation with the Administrator, shall implement research, demonstration, and education programs to support adoption of Integrated Pest Management. Integrated Pest Management is a sustainable approach to managing pests by combining biological, cultural, physical, and chemical tools in a way that minimizes economic, health, and environmental risks. The Secretary of Agriculture and the Administrator shall make information on Integrated Pest Management widely available to pesticide users, including Federal agencies. Federal agencies shall use Integrated Pest Management techniques in carrying out pest management activities and shall promote Integrated Pest Management through procurement and regulatory policies, and other activities.

(Pub. L. 104–170, title III, § 303, Aug. 3, 1996, 110 Stat. 1512.)

Integrated Pest Management Program (IPM) | National Institute of Food and Agriculture (usda.gov) US Dept. of Agriculture and The US EPA, Office of Pesticides are the authorities of IPM

GSA IPM: Integrated Pest Management | GSA Integrated Pest Management Integrated Pest Management (IPM) can be defined as: A coordinated system of technological and management practices to control pests in a safe, environmentally sound, and economical manner. It is a process for minimizing pesticide use and risk while maximizing the control of pests that affect public health, impede operations, or damage property. IPM has been mandated on Federal property since 1996 by Section 136r-1 of Title 7, United States Code, and is cited in Title 41 of the Code of Federal Regulations (102-74.35) as a required service for agencies subject to the authority of the General Services Administration (GSA).

Since 1989, GSA has distributed IPM guidance to over 70 Federal agencies, two foreign governments, and about 50 public agencies in 17 states. GSA's IPM specifications and/or program guidance have been widely adopted across Federal facilities.

Three basic rules of an IPM program:

1. Deny pests access to the facility

2. Deny pests food, water, & a hiding or nesting place

3. Work with a licensed pest control operator to eliminate pests that do enter

The two most common types of rats in Georgia are the Norway rat and the roof rat. Norway rats are the larger of the two, including their tail which is shorter than their body. These rats are 10-12 inches in length with a brown/gray color.

Best MANAGEMENT PRACTICES: An effective (successful) rat control strategy typically includes three elements: sanitation measures; building construction and rodent proofing; and, if necessary, population control.

1. Sanitation: Sanitation is fundamental to rat control and must be continuous. If sanitation measures aren’t properly maintained, the benefits of other measures will be lost and rats will quickly return. Good housekeeping in and around buildings will reduce available shelter and food sources for rats and, to some extent, other pests. Neat, off-the-ground storage of pipes, lumber, firewood, crates, boxes, gardening equipment, and other household goods will help reduce the suitability of the area for rats and also will make their detection easier. Collect garbage, trash, and garden debris frequently, and ensure all garbage receptacles have tight-fitting covers.

2. Building Construction: The most successful and long-lasting form of rat control in structures is exclusion, or “building them out.” Seal cracks and openings in building foundations and any openings for water pipes, electric wires, sewer pipes, drain spouts, and vents. No hole larger than 1 /4 inch should be left unsealed, in order to exclude both rats and house mice. Make sure doors, windows, and screens fit tightly. Their edges can be covered with sheet metal if gnawing is a problem.

Thinning dense vegetation will make the habitat less desirable. Climbing hedges such as Algerian or English ivy, star jasmine, and honeysuckle on fences or buildings are conducive to roof rat infestations and should be thinned or removed if possible, as should overhanging tree limbs within 3 feet of the roof. Separate the canopy of densely growing plants such as pyracantha and juniper from one another and from buildings by a distance of 2 feet or more to make it more difficult for rats to move between them.

3. Rodent Proofing and Population Control: To prevent and or minimize rodents from entering a structure you must seal and or plug-up holes and gaps. Excellent materials to use for plugging-up gaps and holes are coarse steel wool, wire screen, and lightweight sheet metals. Norway and roof rats are likely to gnaw away plastic sheeting, wood, caulking, and other less sturdy materials. Because rats and house mice are excellent climbers, openings above ground level must also be plugged. Rodent proofing against roof rats, because of their greater climbing ability, usually requires more time to find entry points than for Norway rats. Roof rats often enter buildings at the roofline, so be sure that all access points in the roof are sealed. If roof rats are traveling on overhead utility wires, contact a pest control professional or the utility company for information and assistance with measures that can be taken to prevent this.

Population Control: When food, water, and shelter are available, rat populations can increase quickly. While the most permanent form of control is to limit food, water, shelter, and access to buildings, direct population control often is necessary. For controlling rats indoors, using traps is best. When rodenticides (toxic baits) are used in structures, rats can die in inaccessible locations such as within walls or ceilings. In hot weather, the stench of a dead rat can be unbearable and can necessitate cutting a hole in the wall to remove the carcass. Also, ectoparasites such as fleas and mites often leave dead rat carcasses and can infest the entire house if the carcass isn’t removed promptly.

Trapping. Trapping is the safest and most effective method for controlling rats in and around buildings, garages, and other structures. Because snap traps can be used over and over, trapping is less costly than poison baits but more labor intensive. Traps can be set and left indefinitely in areas such as attics where rats have been a problem in the past. The simple, wooden rat-size snap trap is the least expensive option, but some people prefer the newer plastic, single-kill rat traps, because they are easier to set and to clean. Snap traps with large plastic treadles are especially effective, but finding the best locations to set traps is often more important than what type of trap is used. Generally, young rats can’t be trapped until they are about a month old, which is when they leave the nest to venture out for food. Nutmeats, dried fruit, bacon, or a piece of kibbled pet food can be an attractive bait for traps. Fasten the bait securely to the trigger of the trap with light string, thread, or fine wire so the rodent will spring the trap when attempting to remove the food. Even glue can be used to secure the bait to the trigger. Soft baits such as peanut butter and cheese can be used, but rats sometimes take soft baits without setting off the trap. Set traps so the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. The best places to set traps are in secluded areas where rats are likely to travel and seek shelter. Droppings, gnawings, and damage indicate the presence of rodents, and areas where such evidence is found usually are the best places to set traps, especially when these areas are located between their shelter and food sources. Place traps in natural travel ways, such as along walls, so the rodents will pass directly over the trigger of the trap.

Effective Professional Pest Control: In the scheme of things, hiring an exterminator or eradication professional is considered the most efficient and effective course to take to address an animal infestation involving rats or mice. Here is a list of actions that any reputable professional pest control or rodent control services would be doing:–

· Thoroughly inspecting the area to determine rodents’ species’ activities and the level of their infestation.

· Identifying areas that need to be sealed, and or plugged-up, such as vents, pipe entries, gaps at doorways, etc. to stop rodents from entry. Once these areas have been identified then systematically start closing all of them (i.e. gaps and holes) larger than ¼ inch.

· Provides an inspection report with pictographic and detailed text of findings to include recommendations for improvement in eliminating the pest of concern

· Prescribes the proper chemical baits or trap sizes based on their needs

· Complete removal of the baits or traps used to include all animal carcasses.

· Conducts follow-up inspections at least weekly or more often depending on the level of infestation. During these inspections documents rodent activity, checks baits and traps, if needed then refills bait stations, and removes traps with carcasses and then replaces all areas with a new trap where necessary.

Rodent Dropping Cleanup In many instances, this type of animal infestation cleanup can prove more challenging than the initial eradication of rats and mice from the premises prior to the commencement of cleaning. Effective and safe rodent infestation cleanup can prove to be a remarkably challenging endeavor.

Following a rat or mouse infestation at your property, the most significant rodent infestation cleanup challenge is dealing with rodent droppings. The reality is that rodent droppings can prove to be a health hazard. Rodent droppings can harbor different types of dangerous pathogens, health hazards that can include viruses and bacteria. An example of such a virus is hantavirus. Hantavirus can become airborne and has the potential for causing significant and even fatal health issues.

In order to embark on animal infestation cleanup following a rodent infestation, using appropriate personal protective equipment, or PPE, is a must. This gear needs to include a respirator, goggles, gloves, and some type of uniform or garment covering.

The process of rodent infestation cleanup needs to commence with what fairly can be called containment. Once personal protective equipment is in place, rodent droppings should be saturated with a liquid sanitization agent. In the alternative, you can make a sanitization solution comprised of 1-part chlorine bleach and 9-parts water.

This serves the dual purpose of eradicating at least some of the potential pathogens that might be contained in rodent droppings. It also prevents them from crumbling and releasing harmful disease-carrying particles into the air. The sanitization solution should soak rodent droppings for 20 minutes, after which they can be removed and stowed in a suitable hazardous waste container.

Once rodent droppings have been physically removed, the infested or contaminated area needs to be sanitized. The same type of sanitization agent or solution mentioned a moment ago can be used for this purpose.

Finally, it is highly likely that a rodent infestation can result in a situation involving a foul stench on the premises. This type of animal infestation cleanup may require deodorization as well.

Because of the complexities of rodent dropping cleanup, the typical homeowner, business owner, or rental property owner is best served by obtaining professional assistance. An animal dropping cleanup company can safely and thoroughly restore the premises to a fully usable state. The dangers inherently associated with rat dropping are eradicated, resulting in a safe home, business, or rental property.

Future Rodent Infestation Prevention Once you manage the completion of rodent eradication and animal dropping cleanup from your office, business or rental property, you undoubtedly want to take all practical steps necessary to prevent against a future pest invasion. At the heart of preventing future rodent infestation is blocking any potential access ways into your business, or rental property.

The heart of blocking access to your building structure by rodents is sealing any holes in the exterior. Bear in mind that rodents are capable of getting through very small spaces. For example, a mouse can get through a hole in exterior the size of a dime. A rat can get through a hole the size of a quarter.

Rodents are also capable of effectively chewing through a variety of materials. Thus, you need to take care to plug any holes around the exterior of your home to ensure you select a material that rodents cannot penetrate.

As part of your effort to prevent future rodent infestation into your property, you need to eliminate any clutter from the grounds surrounding the property. Rodents are attracted to clutter and use it as something of a staging ground for a move to infest your property.

You will also want to keep rodent attractions at bay inside your property as well. For example, don’t leave containers of open food about your property. In addition, make certain that garbage cans are sealed as well.

Future rodent prevention efforts are something that a property owner typically can personally undertake especially with the assistance of a reputable pest control professional.

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