3c_1.4 Ref Doc Trouser Foul Wet Weather.pdf

CG/PD 15-17

22 May 2015

TROUSER, FOUL/ WET WEATHER

This document is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Homeland Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers a nylon, three-layer laminated, waterproof, windproof, and moisture-vapor-permeable trouser used as a component of the Coast Guard’s Foulw Weather clothing system.

1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be one type in the following sizes as specified.

Size X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-LONG X-Small X X X X X X Small X X X X X X Medium X X X X X X Large X X X X X X-Large X X X X XX-Large X X X X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the U.S Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-T-3530 Thread and Twine: Mildew Resistant or Water Repellent Treated MIL-F-10884 Fasteners, Snap MIL-DTL-32072 Thread, Polyester MIL-C-43701 Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking

2.3 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 6-14 Cloth, Waterproof and Moisture Vapor Permeable

(Copies of this document are available at the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Kansas Street, Natick, MA or the procuring activity)

2.4 Non Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM D 751 Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics ASTM D 6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at www.astm.org. or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent and Laundry Detergents in General

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, research Triangle Park, NC 27709- 2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

2.5 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance equirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design: The trousers have an elastic Drawcord at the waist with snap closure with double needle lockstitch at Bottom with spacing in between of 1/8”. A front slide fastener fly Opening, Leg Slide Fastener Flap Opening with adjustable tabs in “L” Shape with Velcro closure, Two front pass-thru Opening with Flaps that measure 2-1/2 +/- 1/8 inch wide by 7 ¾ +/- ¼ inches in length, two leg cargo pockets that measure 7 ¾ +/- ¼ inch http://www.astm.org/ http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/ wide by 9 +/- ¼ inch in Length, with Flaps that measure 2-1/2 +/- 1/8 inch wide by 7 ¾ +/- ¼ inches in Length, Location of Cargo Pocket Flap from top of waist is 11 +/- ½ inch for all sizes and Cargo Pocket 11 ½ +/- ½ inch. Reinforcement patches at the seat and knees. Finish Belt Loops 2 ½ +/- 1/8 inch in Length and ¾ inch wide. Spacing between bartacks in Belt loops is 1 ¾ inch to 2 ¼ inch. Suspender Loops are 3/8 “ wide by 5 1/8 +/- 1/8 inch Length for all sizes.

3.4 Material.

3.4.1 Basic Material. The basic material for the trouser shall be a 100% nylon cloth, laminated, waterproof, windproof, and moisture vapor permeable material in accordance with NCTRF PD 6-14. The color shall be CG Blue 3362.

3.4.2 Cloth Reinforcement. The cloth for use as knee patches and seat patches shall approxímate CG Blue 3362, water repellent treated and must resist fraying; 330x330D Cordura.

3.4.3 Non-Wicking barrier. The non-wicking buffer shall be a polyurethane adhesive, 2 inches wide and a minimum of 4.5 ml thick.

3.5 Components.

3.5.1 Seam sealing tape. The tape for covering and sealing all designated seams and stitching shall be cut in 1 (+1/8) inch wide strips from the material specified in 3.5.1.1 as applicable. The seam tape shall be Gore 3-L BLACK:6GTAM025BLKN or equal.

3.5.1.1 Sealing tape for basic material made with polytetrafluoroethylene film. The sealing tape shall be black nylon tricot, and shall be cut from laminated material fabricated in layers meeting the following requirements:

a. Backing - Nylon tricot fabric weighing 1.5 ounces per square yard minimum.

b. Middle layer - Microporous expanded polytetrafluoroethylene film weighing

0.5 ounces per square yard minimum.

c. Adhesive – Thermoplastic in sufficient thickness to meet the requirements specified in 3.6.2.

3.5.2 Drawcord, elastic. The trouser drawcord shall be a black, 3/16 inch diameter nylon or polyester elastic conforming to type II of MIL-C-43701. All ends shall be heat seared and knotted.

Table I – Elastic Drawcord lengths

Size Length (in inches) Tolerance

X-small 38 +/- 1

Small 42 +/- 1

Medium 46 +/- 1

Large 50 +/- 1

X-Large 54 +/- 1

XX-Large 58 +/- 1

3.5.3 Fastener, tape, hook and loop: The fastener tape shall be nylon conforming to type II, Class-1 of A-A-55126 and in the widths specified in table II. The color shall be black.

Table II – Fastener Tape Length

Location Width Length (in inches)

Leg Tabs (Hook) 1-1/2 inches 1-1/2 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Leg Fastener Tapes (Pile) 1-1/2 inches 6-3/4 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Pass Throu Flaps (Pile) 1 inches 2 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Pass Throu Opening (Hook) 1 inches 2 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Cargo Pocket Flap (Pile) 1 inches 2 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Cargo Pocket (Hook) 1 inches 2 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Leg zipper flap (Hook) 5/8 inches 3 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

Leg Fastener Tape (Pile) 5/8 inches 3 +/- ¼ (all sizes)

3.5.4 Fastener, Slide: All slide fasteners shall be in lengths specified per size, color black, type I, style 3, size MS, nylon or polyester continous coil or ladder configuration, conforming to A-A-55634 and shall be equipped with a thong. The leg Opening slide fasteners shall be 15 inches for inseams Xshort and Short and for Regular, Long, Xlong and Xxlong 17 inches. The slide fastener lengths for the front fly are listed in Tabe III bellow with a tolerance of +/- 1/8 inch:

Table III – Slide fastener lengths

Size X-Short Short Regular Long X-Long XX-Long

X-Small 7 7 7 9 9 9

Small 7 7 9 9 10 10

Medium 7 9 9 10 10 10

Large 9 9 10 10 10 10

X-Large 9 10 10 10 10 10

XX-Large 9 11 11 11 12 12

3.5.5 Barrel Lock: The barrel locks for the ends of the drawcords shall be black, ITW Nexus Barreloc or equivalent.

3.5.6 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester, size B, 2 or 3 ply, shade black conforming to Type I, Class 1, Subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072. As an alternate; tex size 40/2 or 3 ply (ticket 50) polyester core thread conforming to A-A- 50199 Water Repellent treated in accordance to MIL-T-3530.

3.5.7 Fastener, Snap. The stud and post parts of the snap fastener shall be style 2A, finish 2 male and female complete, consisting of stud and eyelet size 1 or 2 with button size 1 or 2 and socket conforming to MIL-F-10884, except an uncapped button may be used in areas where the surface will be consealed by a layer of base cloth.

3.5.8 Eyelets. Eyelets for grown-on waistband and cargo pockets shall be sewn with purling on the outside with a 3/16 to ¼ inch diameter finished opening. The width or bite of stitching around the eyelet shall not be less than 1/16 inch. The eyelet stitching shall have at least four overlapping stitches.

3.6 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in this document herein.

3.6.1 Stitches seams, and stitching. Seaming shall be consistent, Exhibit a Uniform Appearance and shall conform to the ASTM STD 751 Stitch Types Listed in Table IV Below. To Maintain durability and functionality, the seams shall be sewn with 8-10 stitches per inch for all inside and outside seams. Thread shall be secured by a minimum of ¼” backstitched or ½” overlap when broken stitches are repaired. Overedge shall be 6 to 10 stitches per inch. 3/8” bartacks shall be approximately 20 to 27 stitches each and 5/8” shall be approximately 35 to 40.

Table IV. Seam and Stitching Types

Seam Placement Seam Type Gage Stitch Type

Side Seams, Back Seams

Ssa-1 ¼ inch 301

Top Stitching of Pocket Flaps

Sse-2b 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge

Attachment of pockets and of Knee and Seat patches

Lsd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge

Overedge Top Waist and Flies

Ssa-1 1/8 inch from edge 503-504

Hook and Loop Osf-1 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the bound selvage

Bottom hemming Efb-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from hem

Waistband Hem Efa-2 7/8 inch wide hem 301

Top Stitching Leg Flaps and Ankle tab

Sse-2b 3/32 to 1/8 inch from edge

Belt Loop and Suspender Loop construction

Efh-1 ¼ inch gage 301

Attached Front Zipper

Efa-2 1/8 inch 301

3.6.2 Bartacks. Unless otherwise specified, all bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and 1/8 inch wide, and shall contain 28 stitches. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

Table V. Bartack Placement

Bartack Placement Number of Bartack Length

Top and Bottom of all belt loops (Set 1/8- inch from edge)

2 5/8 inch

Fly at Rt- top zipper Horizontal)

1 3/8 inch

Fly Front at the end of the “J”

1 5/8 inch

Cargo Pocket top 2 3/8 inch

Ankle Tab and Suspender Loop (2 ea)

4 3/8 inch

3.6.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

Table VI. Location of Belt Loops

Size Quantity Location

X-Small and Small 5 1. One Center seat seam.

2. One on each back panel 5 ½ +/- ¼ inch from seat seam

3. One on each front 4 ½ +/- ¼ inch from side.

Medium and Large 7 1. One Center seat seam.

2.One on each back panel 5 ½ +/- ¼ inch from seat seam

3.One on each front 4 ½

+/- ¼ inch from side.

Xlarge and XXlarge 7 1. One Center seat seam.

2.One on each back panel 6 +/- ¼ inch from seat seam

3.One on each front 6 +/- ¼ inch from side

3.6.4 Heat Sealing. Seams and stitching as indicated in table II shall be sealed with heat sealing tape on the innerside of the trousers. The entire width of the seam tape shall be hot air sealed over the seam or stitching. The tape shall be applied by high temperature air blown on the thermoplastic adhesive face of the sealing tape, which is then driven through pressurized rollers, attaching the tape and sealing the seam or stitching. The machine shall operate on 1200 to 3600 watts, 115 or 220 VAC air heater with slotted pneumatically activated driven rollers which press the tape onto the seam or stitching being sealed at a maximum of 20 feet per minute. All seam tape shall be applied without tension and shall be applied so that a minimum of 1/8 inch overlap is on both sides of the sewn seam.

Every effort shall be made to avoid tape end joints, where the tape passes over taped seams on the trouser. All seam tapes shall overlap a minimum of ¾ inch at joining points.

Sealed seams and stitching shall show no leakage when tested as specified in 4.4.4.

3.6.5 Repairs. Repairing the trouser by mending, patching, or darning is not allowed. At no time is the removal of heat sealing tape permitted. However, heat sealing tape may be used for repairing leaking seams, and for repair of missing yarns in the tricot knit on the inside of the trousers up to 15 inches long. Up to three repairs totaling 15 inches in length shall be allowed. Seam tape may also be used to repair areas where the original tape does not overlap sewn seams by the minimum 1/8 inch on both sides. No more than two layers of seam sealing tape shall be permitted in any one area. The same dimensions as above shall apply.

3.7 Labels

3.7.1 Identification/Instruction label. Each parka shall have an identification/ instruction label. The labels shall show fastness to laundering.

CONTRACT NUMBER:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER:

TROUSER, FOUL/WET WEATHER

100% NYLON

SPO100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

MACHINE WASH WARM, RINSE THOROUGHLY

DO NOT USE BLEACH OR FABRIC SOFTENER

DO NOT DRY CLEAN

TUMBLE DRY WARM, STEAM IRON WARM

DO NOT PUNCTURE FABRIC

3.7.2 Size Label. The shirt's size-length shall be on a separate label.

3.8 Patterns. Standard patterns provide an allowance of ¼ inch for all sealed seams, Leg Flaps and Ankle tabs and 3/8 inch for all other seams. Patterns to be furnished by the Government. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is allowed. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accomodate manufacturer’s process using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

3.8.1 Pattern Parts: The component parts shall be cut from the material specified and according to the number of parts listed in table VII.

TABLE VII. LIST OF PATTERN PARTS

Material Nomenclature Parts

Cloth, Laminated

Front 2

Back 2 Seat Patch 2 Knee Patch 2 Leg Insert 4 Pocket Flap 2 Ankle Tab 4 Pocket Facing

Zipper leg Cover

Cloth, Reinforcement

Cargo Pocket 2

Cargo Pocket Flap 2

3.9 Finished Measurements. The measurements of the trousers shall conform to the requirements specified in table VIII.

TABLE VIII. Finished Measurements (Inches)

Foul Weather Trouser Finished

Measurements 09/09/04

1/2 Waist 1 / Inseam 2 / Out seam 3 /

X-SHORT

X-Small 15 26-1/2 36-1/2 Small 17 26-1/2 36-1/2 Medium 19 26-1/2 36-1/2

SHORT

X-Small 15 28-1/2 38-1/2 Small 17 28-1/2 38-1/2 Medium 19 28-1/2 40 Large 21 28-1/2 40 X-large 23 28-1/2 40 XX-Large 25 28-1/2 42

REGULAR

X-Small 15 30-1/2 40-1/2 Small 17 30-1/2 42 Medium 19 30-1/2 42 Large 21 30-1/2 43 X-large 23 30-1/2 43 XX-Large 25 30-1/2 44

LONG

X-Small 15 32-1/2 44 Small 17 32-1/2 44 Medium 19 32-1/2 45 Large 21 32-1/2 45 X-large 23 32-1/2 45 XX-Large 25 32-1/2 46

X LONG

X-Small 15 34-1/2 46 Small 17 34-1/2 47 Medium 19 34-1/2 47 Large 21 34-1/2 47

X-large 23 34 1/2 47 XX-Large 25 34-1/2 49

XX LONG

Small 17 37-1/2 50 Medium 19 37-1/2 50 Large 21 37-1/2 50

Tolerance ±1/2" ±3/4" ±3/4"

1/ With trousers fastened measure along center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

2/ Measure inseam of trousers from crotch seam to bottom edge of trouser leg hem.

3/ Fasten slide fastener and ankle tab at leg insert. With trousers flat, measure from top of waistband above Back edge of Cargo Pocket to trouser leg hem below the ankle tab.

3.10 Workmanship. After the finished parkas are assembled and have been thoroughly cleaned with all loose thread, lint, foreign matter and spots or stains removed, they shall be examined for the following defects in Table IX:

TABLE IX – CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

DEFECT POINT

VALUE

I. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP

a Hole, smash, float or loose slub 3

b. Loose yarn, snagged thread, misweave , broken or missing yarn,

c. Thin place 2

II. CLEANLINESS

a. Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of a garment which would be visible when parka is worn

b. Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of parka 2

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout parka 2

d. Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished parka when applicable.

III. COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any component part or operation omitted (unless otherwise classified herein)

b. Any component not specified (type, size, color,

c. Any component part tight, distorted, pleated or full ( unless otherwise classified herein)

d. Any operation not as specified ( unless otherwise classified herein)

e. The edge of component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch ( unless otherwise classified herein)

f. Any wool parts assembled with the face side on the underside ( unless otherwise specified)

g. Any inside part assembled with the face side (as specified on the underside.

IV. DRAWCORD

a. Any drawcord caught in hem or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord.

b. Any end not heat seared 2

c. Any drawcord omitted 3

d. Any end not knotted 2

e. Any drawcord insufficient in length 3

f. Any barrel lock omitted 2

g. Not caught in center bartack 1

TABLE IX – CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

VALUE

V. SLIDE FASTENER

a. Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective 3

b. Not closing as specified 3

c. Length not as specified 3

d. Color not as specified 2

e. Thong not as specified 2

VI. SHADED PART

1. Variation in shade between two or more parts (except parts which may be cut from ends)

2. Variation in shade within a part (except part which may be cut from ends)

3. Part cut from ends badly shaded

VII. CUTTING

a. Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern, directional line, or in accordance with specifications requirements

b. Twill line of any outside part not running in specified direction

c. Any outside component part not cut in the same direction of nap

VIII. SEAM AND STITCHING

a.Seam twisted, pleated, or puckered 1/ 3

b. Part of parker caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

1/

c. Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2 inch

d. Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2 inch

e. Color not as specified 2

f. Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified 2

g. Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam allowance 3

h. Seam tape lifting off fabric 3

i. Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric on the laminated) in excess of 3/16 inch width or 1/2 inch in length at any location along a taped seam

TABLE IX - CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

VALUE

j. Open seam more than 1/8 up to 1/4 inch

k. More than 1/4

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitutes an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

l. Seam and stitch type

1. Not specified seam or stitch type 3

2. Any line of stitching omitted or insecure 2

3. Any line of stitching not beginning or ending where specified

(unless otherwise classified herein)

m. Stitch tension

1. Loose tension resulting in a loose seam 3

2. Loosely exposed loops of lower or top thread on edge, top, or raised stitching.

n. Runoff, skipped, or broken stitch:

1. Edge, top or raised stitching (more than 1/4 inch) 1

o. Bartack, backtacked, tack, or tacking(except buttonhole

1. Missing, insecure, misplaced, not serving intended purpose, or not specified length or type. 1/

2..Loose stitch 1

3. Length not as specified by 1/16 inch or more 1

4. Other than direction specified 1

IX. BOTTOM HEMS

a. Width not as specified 1

b. Hems uneven at leg insert by more tan ¼ inch 2

X. INSEAMS

a. Inseam staggered at crotch more tan specified (center to center) 2

b. Crotch and seat sean staggered at inseam more tan specified

(center to center)

XI. ANKLE TAB

a. Missing 3

b. Inproperly located or not width specified 3

XII. SNAP FASTENERS

a. Any part of assemble missing, mismated, broken, cracked, bent, not securely cinched, affecting function

b. wrong amount specified 3

c. cinched too tightly or too loose (stud spins freely at connection) 3

d. one or more having rough or sharp edges 1

TABLE IX - CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

VALUE

XIII. HEAT SEALED SEAMS

a. Any seam tape not located as specified 2

b. Any seam tape not 1/8 inch overlap on each side sewn seam 3

c. Any seam tape not overlapped 3/4 inch minimum 3

d. Any seam tape not located as specified 2

e. Any required stitching not covered by seam tape 2

f. Any required stitching not covered by seam tape 2

g. Any needle punctures that have not been repaired using heat sealing tape

h. Any area of the laminate knit fabric bordering the seam tape that is melted exposing laminate film

XIV. REPAIRS

a. Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 5 inches in length 3

b. More than five repairs of any one item 1/

XV. SEAM TAPE ADHESION

a. Seam tape lifting off fabric within 3/4 inch of seam 1/ 3

b. Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric on the laminate) in excess of 3/16 inch width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam

XVI. BARTACKS

a. Bartack omitted 3

b. Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

More than two 2 Two or less 2

c. Any loose stitching incomplete or broken 2

d. Length or width not specified 2

XVII. LABELS/TAG

a. Missing, incorrect, or illegible:

1. Size. Instruction or combination label 3

2. Identification label 1

b. Not attached as specified or location incorrect 1

c. Stitching through printing 1

d. Misplaced by more than ½ inch from location specified 1

e. Causes damage to the parka 3

f. Bar-code omitted not or not readable by scanner 2

g. Not visible on folded, packaged item 2

1/ This defect shall score as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as minor when affect serviceability but not seriously.

3.10.1 End item examination. The trousers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table VIII. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of Parkas. The inspection and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.10.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table I provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANZI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Methods of testing

4.4.1.1 Hydrostatic resistance test. The hydrostatic resistance of laundering cycles shall be tested in accordance with Method 5516 of ASTM-D-751, except for the following:

The test specimen need not be conditioned and does not need to be tested in a conditioned environment (ambient conditions may be used). The test may be performed on any device, which tests the same specimen area at the equivalent pressure. The hydrostatic head shall be 50 centimeters pressure (of 0.8 psi) for 3 minutes. The trousers shall be tested at three locations, one on top seam of knee patch, one leg seam, and one seat seam.

The water shall contact the outside of the garment. The sealed seam shall be centered in the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area of the testing machine. Evidence of leakage in one or more seam locations shall be considered a test failure. Leakage is defined as the appearance of one droplet of water anywhere in the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area. In cases of dispute the apparatus described in Method 5516 of ASTM-D-751 shall be used.

4.4.1.2 Trouser laundering test. Place two (2) parkas, (one parka may be ballast) approximately 4 pounds total load, in an automatic washing machine set on permanent press cycle, high water level and warm (100 + 10, - OF) wash temperature. The trousers sahll ahve the the the right side out during the wash and drying cycles. Place 28 grams of detergent conforming to type II of P-D-245 into the washer. The duration of each laundering cycle shall be 30 to 35 minutes. After laundering, place trousers in an automatic tumble dryer set on permanent press cycle, high heat setting (150-160° F) and run for approximately 30 minutes, or until dry. Conduct twenty laundering and drying cycles. After the twentieth laundering and drying cycle, test and evaluate the trousers for conformance to the required characteristics in 4.4.1.2.1 The laundering equipment (washer and dryer) shall be in accordance with AATCC test method 135.

4.4.1.2.1 Appearance after laundering

a. Tape ends and integrity test. After twenty laundering cycles, the test parka shall be examined for any sign of tape end lifting, tape curling, bubbling, separation along tape edges or across the tape width, or tape top knit shrinkage more than 1/8 inch exposing the tape membrane or middle layer. The occurrence of any of these defects shall be considered a test failure.

b. Physical surface appearance changes of the laminated fabric. After 20 laundering cycles, the woven side of the test parka shall be visually examined on all visible pattern parts of the parka for any evidence of physical surface appearance changes as compared to the unlaundered sample (see 3.6.3). Any physical surface appearance change (such as puckering, bubbling, etc.) shall be considered a test failure.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The parka is for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Sources.

6.4.1 Eyelets and Washers: Eyelets and washers may be purchased from Stimpson Co., Inc., Bayport, NY 11704, telephone (516) 472-2000 or Stimpson Co., Inc., Pompano Beach, FL 33060, telephone (305)946-3500.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Trouser Foul Weather Utility

6.6 Figures. The figures are furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the specification description shall control.

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

Front Back

FIGURE 1