3c_1.4 Ref Doc Liner Jacket Cold Weather Parka.pdf
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- USCG TRACEN CAPE MAY REPAIR, AND RETURN OF USCG FOUL WEATHER PARKAS, TROUSERS, AND LINER JACKETS
- Solicitation number
- 67100PR260004241
About this file
This is a Purchase Description for a Liner Jacket, Parka (NCTRF PD 05-09J), issued by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility and approved for use by the Department of the Navy, Department of Homeland Security Coast Guard, and Defense Logistics Agency's Troop Support. The liner jacket is designed to be worn as a standalone insulation layer or as a zip-in liner for Navy Working Uniform (NWU) Type II and III parkas and Cold Weather Parkas. The garment is available in one type with three classes: Class 1 (Black 3238), Class 2 (Coyote 3758), and Class 3 (Blue 3362). Style A has been deleted; only Style B is current, which includes two lower front pockets with slide fastener openings. The liner jacket features a center front slide fastener closure, wind protection flap, drawcord with barrel lock adjustment, stand-up collar, raglan sleeves with underarm slide fastener openings, elasticized cuffs, two internal upper chest mesh pockets, a rank tab on the left front chest, and nylon reinforcement material on the upper back, shoulders, upper chest, and elbows. The garment is available in multiple sizes ranging from XX-Short to XXX-Long and X-Small to XXX-Large.
The basic material specification calls for 100% polyester low-cut pile face and back knitted cloth with durable water repellent treatment, wind resistance achieved through knit construction rather than lamination, and breathability retention. Physical requirements include minimum bursting strength of 80 pounds, pH 5.5–8.5, water repellency of 80/80/80 (spray test), minimum weight of 7.0 oz/yd², dimensional change limits of 5.0% for both wales and courses after five laundering cycles, and specific colorfastness standards for laundering, light, crocking, and perspiration exposure. Reinforcement material must be 100% nylon textured taslan plain weave cloth. Slide fasteners for the center front must be YKK style #0069665 molded separating fasteners with single reversible automatic locking slider, Size 5, with 9/16 or 5/8 inch wide tape, compliant with A-A-55634 for plastic Class 1. Underarm and lower front pocket slide fasteners must be continuous chain polyester with polyester tape, Type I, style 7, size 5-7 per A-A-55634, with minimum crosswise breaking strength of 175 pounds and 5/8 inch tape width. The document specifies detailed construction requirements including specific stitch types, seam gauges, stitches per inch, bartack specifications, pattern parts with cut quantities, finished measurement tolerances for multiple size/length combinations, and comprehensive visual defect classifications for inspection. First article inspection is required when specified, with conformance inspection performed per ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 sampling procedures. Slide fastener interoperability must be validated using Government-loaned guide samples to ensure compatibility with NCTRF PD 04-09 and NCTRF PD 02-16 parkas.
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| 3c_1.4 Ref Doc Trouser Foul Wet Weather.pdf | ||
| 3c_Statement of Work.pdf | ||
| 12a_Solicitation-Commercial-Products-Services.pdf | ||
| 3c_Pricing Worksheet.xlsx | XLSX spreadsheet | |
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PURCHASE DESCRIPTION
LINER JACKET, PARKA
NCTRF PD 05-09J
CAGE CODE: 32263
29 November 2022
SUPERSEDING
NCTRF PD 05-09H
10 January 2022
This purchase description is approved for use by the Department of the Navy, Department of Homeland Security, Coast Guard and Defense Logistics Agency’s Troop Support.
1. SCOPE
1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for a liner jacket worn as a stand-alone jacket or as a zip-in liner to insulate the Navy Working Uniform (NWU) Type II and III parkas and Cold Weather Parkas for Navy and Coast Guard.
1.2 Classification. The liner jacket is available in one type and the following classes, styles, sizes and lengths.
Class 1. Black 3238 Class 2. Coyote 3758 Class 3. Blue 3362
Style A. DELETED Style B. With lower front pockets
Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the procuring activity see 6.3.
AMSC N/A FSC 8415
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release.
INCH-POUND
SCHEDULE OF SIZES
X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large
XX-Short X X X ---- ---- ---- ---- X-Short X X X X ---- ---- ---- Short X X X X X X X
Regular X X X X X X X Long X X X X X X X
X-Long X X X X X X X XX-Long ---- X X X X X X
XXX-Long ---- X X X X X X
2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS
2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 or 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.
2.2 Government documents.
2.2.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.
COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS
A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)
DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS
MIL-DTL-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing, Nylon MIL-DTL-32075 Label; for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) MIL-DTL-43701 Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester MIL-C-44296 Cloth, Fusibles
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil.)
2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those specified in the solicitation or contract.
DRAWINGS
U.S. ARMY NATICK SOLDER RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT & ENGINEERING CENTER
2-6-1014 Barrel Lock with Keeper
PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS
NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY
NCTRF PD 04-09 Parka, Working, US Navy, Desert and Woodland NCTRF PD 02-16 Parka, Cold Weather
(Copies of these documents are available from the procuring activity.)
2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.
AEROSPACE INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION
NASM 16491 Grommet, Metallic, General Specification for
(Copies of this document are available on line at https://www.aia-aerospace.org.)
AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)
Evaluation Procedures AATCC EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles
Test Method
AATCC TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.2 Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc AATCC TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM22 Water Repellency: Spray Test AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
AATCC TM81
AATCC TM135
pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processed Textiles Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)
AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)
ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes
(Copies of this document are available online at https://asq.org.)
ASTM INTERNATIONAL
ASTM D276 Standard Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles ASTM D737 Standard Test Methods for Air Permeability of Textile
Fabrics
ASTM D1059
ASTM D1424
Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short- Length Specimens Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus
ASTM D1776/D1776M
ASTM D1777
Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles Standard Test Method for Thickness of Textiles
ASTM D3512/D3512M Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester
ASTM D3775 Standard Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776/D3776M Standard Test Method Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of
Woven Fabric
ASTM D3787
ASTM D4964
Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles Constant Rate of Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test Standard Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic Fabrics (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Type Tensile Testing Machine)
ASTM D5034 Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength of Textile Fabrics
ASTM D6193 Standard Practices for Stitches and Seams ASTM D8007 Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft
Knitted Fabrics (Copies of these documents are available on line at https://www.astm.org.)
INFORMA HEALTHCARE
Repeat Insult Patch Test, Modified Draize Procedure Method Hayes’ Principles and Methods of Toxicology
(Copies are available online at https://www.routledge.com.)
SAE INTERNATIONAL
AMS-STD-595 Colors Used in Government Procurement
(Copies are available online at https://standards.sae.org.)
2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this purchase description and the references cited herein, the text of this purchase description shall take precedence. Nothing in this purchase description, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.
3. REQUIREMENTS
3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2.
3.2 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the materials meet or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.
3.3 Design. The liner jacket shall have a center front opening with a slide fastener closure, a wind protection flap, and a drawcord with barrel lock adjustment in the hem. The liner jacket shall have a stand up collar; raglan sleeves with underarm slide fastener openings and elasticized cuffs. The liner jacket shall also have two internal upper chest mesh pockets with elasticized tops and a rank tab on the left front chest.
Style B liner jacket shall have two lower front pockets with slide fastener openings. The liner jacket shall have nylon reinforcement material located on the upper back, shoulders, upper chest and elbows. The liner jacket shall have an interoperable front slide fastener to interface with the Navy Working Uniform Parka NCTRF PD 04-09 and Cold Weather Parka NCTRF PD 02-16, Class 1 and 2.
3.3.1 Figures. Figures 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, and 8 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 2 and 4 shall apply. When inconsistencies exist between the written purchase description and the figures, the purchase description shall govern.
3.4 Materials and components. The liner jacket materials and components shall conform to applicable specifications and standards required herein. (see 4.3).
3.4.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 100% polyester low cut pile face and back knitted cloth with a durable water repellent treatment. The cloth shall have wind resistance and shall retain breathability.
Wind resistance for the cloth shall be achieved via knit construction combined with finishing techniques and shall not be laminated. The cloth shall conform to the requirements cited in Table I and tested in accordance 4.3.1.1.
TABLE I. Physical requirements for the basic material.
Characteristic Requirement Class 1 Class 2 & 3 Bursting strength, pounds (minimum) 80 pH 5.5 – 8.5
Water Repelling: Spray (minimum) 80, 80, 80
Weight (oz/yd2) (minimum) 7.0 Dimensional Change, percent (maximum)
After 5 laundering cycles
Wales 5.0 Courses 5.0
Thickness at 0.6 psi, inch (maximum) 0.12 Air Permeability (ft³/min/ft²) 30 - 110 Resistance to Pilling (minimum) Moderate pilling, 3.5 rating
Appearance after 5 laundering cycles (pilling) (minimum)
Slight pilling, 4.0 rating
Colorfastness to: (minimum) Laundering (3 cycles) Color change 3.0 3.0 Staining 3.0 3.0 Crocking Dry 4.0 4.0 Wet 2.5 3.0 Light (170 kJ at 420 nm or 40 AFU) 3.5 3.5 Perspiration Acid Color change 4.0 4.0 Staining 3.0 4.0 Alkaline Color change 4.0 4.0 Staining 3.0 4.0
3.4.1.1 Basic material standard shades.
3.4.1.1.1. Class 1, basic material shade. The basic material for Class 1, Black shall match the Navy shade standard Black 3238 for shade and appearance as well as all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
3.4.1.1.2 Class 2, basic material shade. The basic material for Class 2, Coyote shall match the Navy shade standard Coyote 3758 for shade and appearance as well as all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
3.4.1.1.3. Class 3, basic material shade. The basic material for Class 3 shall match the standard sample for Coast Guard shade Blue 3362 for shade and appearance as well as all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
3.4.2 Reinforcement material. The reinforcement material for the upper back, shoulders, upper chest, elbows, rank tab and bottom tunnel shall be a 100% nylon textured taslan plain weave cloth. The reinforcement material shall conform to the requirements in Table II when tested in accordance with
4.3.1.1. The colorfastness requirements shall be equal to or better than the basic material.
TABLE II. Physical requirements for the reinforcement material.
Weight, oz/yd² (minimum) 2.6 Yarns Per Inch (minimum) Warp Fill
Break Strength, pounds (minimum)
Tear Strength, pounds (minimum)
4.0
Dimensional Change, percent (maximum) After 5 laundering cycles
3.5 3.0
Colorfastness to: (minimum) Laundering (3 cycles) Color Change Staining Light (170 kJ at 420 nm or 40 AFU) Perspiration:
Acid:
Color Change Staining Alkaline:
Color Change Staining
Crocking:
Class 1 only:
Dry
Wet Class 2 & 3:
Dry Wet
3.5
2.5
3.4.2.1 Reinforcement material color.
3.4.2.1.1 Class 1, reinforcement shade. The reinforcement material for the Black Class 1 shall be a good match to the Navy shade Black 3238 for the basic material for shade and appearance as well as all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
3.4.2.1.2 Class 2, reinforcement shade. The reinforcement material for the Coyote Class 2 shall be a good match to the Navy shade Coyote 3758 for the basic material for shade and appearance as well as all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
3.4.2.1.3 Class 3, reinforcement shade. The reinforcement material for Class 3 shall be good match to the Coast Guard shade Blue 3362 standard sample for the basic material for shade and appearance as well as all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced.
3.4.3 Component colors. The components for the liner jacket shall be a good match to the AMS-STD-595 color chip numbers cited in Table III.
TABLE III. Component color.
Component Reference Color Chip Number Class 1 & 3 Class 2 Tricot mesh 3.4.4 27041 20150 Brushed tricot knit 3.4.5 27041 20150 Binding 3.4.6 27041 20150 Thread 3.4.8 27041 20150 Slide fasteners 3.4.9 27041 20150 Slide fastener thong 3.4.10 27041 20150 Drawcord 3.4.11 27041 20150 Nylon tape 3.4.12 27041 20150 Barrel Locks 3.4.14 27041 20150 Elastic webbing 3.4.15 27041 27041 Fastener tape hook and loop 3.4.16 27041 20150
3.4.4 Cloth, tricot mesh. The cloth for the internal chest pockets shall be a 100% polyester warp knit tricot mesh cloth. The tricot mesh cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table IV when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1. The colorfastness requirements shall be equal to or better than the basic material in 3.4.1.
TABLE IV. Tricot mesh (all Classes).
Weight (oz/yd²) 2 (±0.2) Dimensional change, percent (maximum) After 5 laundering cycles
Wales Courses
5.0
3.4.5 Cloth, brushed tricot knit. The cloth for Style B liner jacket, lower front pocket lining shall be 100% polyester brushed tricot knit cloth. The cloth shall conform to the requirements in Table V when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1. The colorfastness requirements shall be equal to or better than the basic material in 3.4.1.
TABLE V. Brushed tricot knit requirements (all Classes).
Weight (oz/yd²) (minimum) 2.9 Dimensional change, percent (maximum) After 5 laundering cycles
Wales Courses
3.4.6 Cloth, binding, tricot knit. The binding cloth for the center front wind flap shall be a tricot knit cloth weighing 4.1 (±0.2) oz/sq. yd. with a fiber blend of 90% nylon and 10% spandex when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1. The tricot knit cloth shall be cut into a 1-1/2 (± 1/8) inch wide binding strip. The colorfastness requirements shall be equal to or better than the basic material in 3.4.1.
3.4.7 Cloth, interlining. The cloth interlining for the rank tab shall be fusible, non-woven, thermal-bonded polyester with a 30 mesh polyamide adhesive conforming to Type V, Class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296.
The interlining shall be white.
3.4.8 Thread. Thread for all seaming and stitching shall conform to Type I or Type II of A-A-50199. The thread for the needle and bobbin (looper) shall be Tex size 36-45. As an alternate, Tex size 31 to 35 may be used for the bobbin (looper) thread. All visible thread shall be the same shade as the basic material, 3.4.1.
3.4.9 Slide fasteners. (See 6.3.1)
3.4.9.1 Center front slide fastener. The front slide fastener shall be YKK style #0069665, an individual element molded, separating fastener with single reversible automatic locking slider (roll over pull tab), Size 5, with 9/16 inch or 5/8 inch wide tape. The slide fastener shall be an interchangeable type per A-A-55634, and the strength and performance shall conform to A-A- 55634 for plastic, Class 1.
TABLE VI. Lengths for front slide fastener.
X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XX-Short 23-1/2 24 24-1/2 ---- ---- ---- ---- X-Short 24-1/2 25 25-1/2 26 ---- ---- ---- Short 25-1/2 26 26-1/2 27 27-1/2 28 28-1/2
Regular 27 27-1/2 28 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 30 Long 28-1/2 29 29-1/2 30 30-1/2 31 31-1/2
X-Long 30 30-1/2 31 31-1/2 32 32-1/2 33 XX-Long ---- 32 32-1/2 33 33-1/2 34 34-1/2
XXX-Long ---- 33-1/2 34 34-1/2 35 35-1/2 36
3.4.9.2 Underarm and lower front pocket slide fasteners. The slide fasteners for the underarm openings and the lower front pockets (Style B liner jacket) shall be continuous chain with a polyester monofilament element and 100% polyester tape. The slide fasteners shall be in accordance with Type I, style 7, size 5-7 of A-A-55634. The minimum crosswise breaking strength for the slide fastener shall be 175 pounds. the slide fastener’s tape width of shall be 5/8 inch. The underarm slide fasteners shall be long enough to accommodate a 12-3/4 (±1/4) inches opening. The lower front pocket slide fasteners of Style B liner jacket shall be long enough to accommodate a 6-3/4 (±1/4) inches opening.
The sliders shall have an opening large enough to accommodate a 3/8 inch wide thong. Underarm and lower front pocket slide fasteners shall have the same element size.
3.4.9.2.1 Slide fastener, alternate. As an alternate, pre-assembled slide fasteners may be used. Pre-assembled slide fastener lengths shall be 14 inches for the underarm and 6-3/4 inches for the lower front pocket openings and conform to all other requirements cited in 3.4.9.2.
3.4.10 Slide fastener thongs. The thongs for all slide fasteners shall be a non-elastic nylon cord, 1/8 inch wide and shall be 2 to 2-1/2 inches in finished length for all sizes.
3.4.11 Drawcord. The hem drawcord shall be 3/16 (± 1/32) inch in diameter, multi-strand rubber elastic with braided nylon or polyester covering, conforming to Type II of MIL-DTL-43701.
3.4.11.1 Drawcord, alternate. When an alternate drawcord is used, the drawcord shall be made from a non-elastic polyester. The alternate drawcord’s diameter shall be 3/16 (±1/32) inch. The alternate drawcord shall have a minimum breaking strength of 200 lbs. The alternate drawcord shall conform to all other requirements stated in 3.4.11.
3.4.12 Nylon tape. The nylon tape for the hanger loop, liner jacket attachment loops, and barrel lock attachment shall be flat, 3/8 (± 1/32 inch width in accordance with Type III, Class 2 of MIL-
DTL-5038.
3.4.13 Grommet. The grommets used for the bottom tunnel drawcord shall conform to Type I, Size 0 of NASM 16491 the color shall be a black chemical finish for Class 1 and Class 3 and brass for Class 2.
3.4.14 Barrel lock. The barrel lock for the hem drawcords shall be a 1/2-inch x 3/8-inch toaster ellipse shape conforming to Drawing Number 2-6-1014.
3.4.15 Webbing, elastic. The knit elastic webbing for the internal chest pockets and cuffs shall be 3/4 (± 1/16) inch wide, 1/150 semi-dull polyester yarns, 25 (± 2) courses per inch, elongation shall be 120 (± 10) percent and the content shall be 26 (± 2) percent spandex and 74 (± 2) percent polyester when tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1. The elastic webbing shall be preshrunk.
3.4.16 Fastener tape, hook and loop. The hook fastener tape shall conform to Type II, Treatment A of A-A- 55126. The hook and loop fastener tapes shall be in accordance with Class 1 or 4, Treatment A of A-A-55126. The hook and loop fastener tape shall be cut 1 inch wide by 1 inch long.
3.4.17 Labels.
3.4.17.1 Personal/identification/instruction label. Each liner jacket shall have a combination label conforming to Type VI, Classes 10 and 15 of MIL-DTL-32075 except the words “Service Number” shall be omitted and replaced with a drawn blank line. The label shall be placed on the wearer’s right inside chest pocket with information facing the wearer. The label shall be stitched on all four sides 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edges. The color of the label shall be white or neutral. The label shall be printed with indelible ink and shall be legible for the life of the garment. The stitching shall not be thru the printing. The label shall have the following inscription:
NAME:
LINER JACKET, PARKA
100% POLYESTER SHELL
REINFORCEMENT TRIM: 100% NYLON
CONTRACT NO: SPE1C1-00-C-0000 (EXAMPLE) NAME
OF CONTRACTOR: XYZ COMPANY (EXAMPLE)
NAME OF MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR)
LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS:
Machine Wash Cold, With Like Colors, Delicate Cycle, Do Not Use Chlorine Bleach, Do Not Use Fabric Softener, Tumble Dry Low, Remove Promptly Or Line Dry.
Do Not Iron
DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL
3.4.17.2 Size label. Each liner jacket shall have a size label conforming to Type VI, Class 2 of MIL- DTL-32075. The label shall be printed with indelible ink and shall be legible for the life of the garment. The label shall be stitched in center back collar seam on inside of the liner jacket. The stitching shall not be through the printing. There shall be no abbreviations for size and length except for “X”, “XX” and “XXX” in lieu of extra, extra-extra and extra- extra-extra. The size label shall contain the following information:
Size: Medium-Short (Example) NSN: 8415-00-000-0000 (Example)
3.4.17.3 Bar code label. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with a Type III, Class 17 of MIL- DTL-32075 paper tag for personal clothing items. The tags shall have a hole and be attached to the center front slide fastener thong of each liner jacket by a fastener. The tag shall be printed with indelible ink and shall be clearly legible and readable by scanner. The bar code element shall be a 13-digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12-digit Universal Product Code (UPC) assigned for all NSNs by the Government. The initials “UPC” shall appear beneath code. The bar codes for NSN and UPC shall be a medium to high density and shall be located so that they are completely visible on the item when it is folded and or packaged as specified. The label’s location shall cause no damage to the item.
3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns, which provide a 1/2 inch seam allowance for all joining seams, a 3/8 inch seam allowance for the collar, and 1/4 inch seam allowance for the bottom tunnel and rank tab, will be furnished by the Government (see 6.2). The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used for cutting the contractor's working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except minor modifications are permitted to accommodate automatic equipment. The design and finished measurements shall be maintained. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensions or appearance requirements.
3.5.1 Pattern parts. The liner jacket pattern parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern part list.
Pattern part list.
Material Pattern Abbreviation Nomenclature Cut Parts
Basic Material (3.4.1) PD0509-FRONT Front 2 PD0509-BACK Back 1 PD0509-COLLAR Collar 2 PD0509-SLEEVE Sleeve 2 PD0509-WIND_FLAP Wind Flap 1
Reinforcement material (3.4.2)
PD0509-ELBOW_PATCH Elbow Patch 2 PD0509-FRONT_YOKE Front Yoke 2 PD0509-BACK_YOKE Back Yoke 1 PD0509-SLEEVE_YOKE Sleeve Yoke 2 PD0509-RANK_TAB Rank Tab 2 PD0509-BOTTOM_TNNL Bottom Tunnel 1
Tricot mesh (3.4.4) PD0509-INS_CHS_PKT Inside Chest pocket 2 Brushed tricot knit (3.4.5) Style B
PD0509-LOWER_POCKET Lower Pocket 2
Fusible Interlining (3.4.7) PD0509-RANK_TAB_FUS Rank Tab Fusing 2
3.6 Construction.
3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types shall conform to the requirements of ASTM D6193 using 301 stitch type unless otherwise specified. The seam types, stitching types, and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table VII. Seam construction shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur. The cut edges of all seams (inside garment) shall be overlocked except hemming of top edge of chest pockets. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching.
Edgestitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The guides and knives on the safety stitch machine shall be set to trim only the raveled ends of the fabric. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch and all loose thread shall be removed from the liner jacket. Raw edges on the basic material and reinforcement material shall not be allowed. Loose threads shall be removed from the liner jacket.
TABLE VII. Seam and stitches.
Seaming Areas Seam Type
Gauge Stitch Type
Stitches per inch
Overedging (all inside seams) EFd-1 3/16 inch 503 or 504 8-10 Attach care label to mesh pocket, hook fastener to rank tab, and loop fastener to basic material
EFf-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch 301 10-12
Joining seams, i.e. side seams, sleeve seams, collar joining, collar, pocket attachment
SSa-1 1/2 inch 301 10-12
Attachment of elbow patches and yokes pieces
LSd-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch 301 8-10
Top stitching of sleeve setting seams LSq-2 Two rows, one on each side of sleeve setting seam, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from sleeve seam
301 8-10
Slide fastener topstitching SSs-2 3/16 to 1/4 inch 301 10-12 Attach binding tape to wind flap BSb-2 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 406 8-10 Bottom tunnel attachment SSa-1
LSk-2 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 301 10-12
Sleeve hem EFb-1 1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge 301 10-12 Edge Stitching on Rank Tab SSe-1 1/8 inch from edge 301 8-10
3.6.1.1 Bartacks. Stitches per bartack are to be counted as visible needle punches, i.e. zig-zags. Straight stitches running underneath the zig-zags are not part of the required stitch count. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartacks, 1/8 (+/- 1/32) inch wide are required at locations specified in Table IX. Backstitching to secure the center front drawcord is an acceptable alternate.
TABLE VIII. Bartacks, location, stitches and length for all classes.
Bartack Location Bartack
Size Stitches Per
Bartack Number of
Bartacks Horizontal Vertical
Center front to secure drawcord 3/8 inch 21 2 ---- X Liner jacket attachment loop 3/8 inch 21 4 X ---- Slide fastener thong 3/8 inch 21 3 ---- X
3.6.1.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks and ends of stitching not caught in another line of stitching shall be backstitched at least 1/2 inch using the stitch type as specified in Table VII. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. The top-stitching of the slide fastener shall be backstitched at bottom edge.
3.6.2 Construction details.
3.6.2.1 Reinforcement material. The reinforcement material shall be positioned on the outside of the liner jacket in accordance with marks on pattern and shall be edge stitched through both layers. The front yoke and front yoke stitch lines shall be in horizontal alignment. All yokes (front, back and sleeves) shall be in alignment. (see Figures 1, 3, and 4).
3.6.2.2 Collar. The stand-up collar shall measure 3-1/8 (± 1/8) inches high. The right and left sides of collar shall finish even at center front, see Figure 8. The height of collar shall be even.
3.6.2.3 Rank tab. A rank tab shall be positioned on the left front in accordance with marks on pattern and tab shall be caught in the front yoke attachment. Hook fastener tape shall be stitched to the under ply of the rank tab in accordance with marks on patterns prior to turning. Stitching shall not be visible on the face side of the rank tab. Loop fastener tape shall be attached to the front and shall align with the hook fastener tape on the rank tab. (see Figures 1 and 7).
3.6.2.4 Front opening. The front opening wind flap shall be attached to the left front opening in the slide fastener joining seam. The wind flap shall be bound on the outer edge with a nylon/spandex binding. The front left and front right panels at the top and bottom of the liner jacket shall be even when liner zippered shut. (see 3.4.6).
3.6.2.5 Lower front pockets. (Style B liner jacket) The lower front pockets shall be positioned in accordance with the pattern marks. The finished lower front pocket openings shall finish 6-3/4 (± 1/4) inches. The closed slide fastener shall finish with slider at the top of the pocket. The pockets shall be lined with a brushed tricot knit. The top, backside, and bottom of the slide fasteners shall be topstitched through all plies. The pockets shall be in horizontal alignment with each other at top and bottom.
3.6.2.6 Sleeves. The sleeves shall have a raglan design, an underarm slide fastener, elastic in the cuff and a liner jacket attachment loop on the outside of the underarm seam. The underarm opening for the slide fastener shall measure 12-3/4 (± 1/4) inches. The closed slide fastener shall finish with slider towards the cuff. The sleeve joining seams shall be pressed open. The sleeves shall be uniform and even in length.
3.6.2.7 Cuff elastic. The cut length of the cuff elastic shall be 8 (± 1/2) inches for sizes X-small to Medium, and 10 (± 1/2) inches for sizes Large to XX-Large.
3.6.2.8 Liner jacket attachment loop. The attachment loop shall be placed near sleeve bottom in accordance with marks on pattern. The distance between the liner jacket attachment loop ends (inside edge) shall be positioned as specified in Figure 2. The length of the attachment loop shall be a specified in Figure 4. Each end of the loop shall be bartacked to the underarm seam, see Figures 1, 2 and 4. See 3.6.1.1.
Nancy Inserted Text also XXX Large
3.6.2.9 Internal chest pocket. The relaxed and extended length for the internal chest pocket elastic shall be as specified in Table IX.
TABLE IX. Internal chest pocket elastic (inches).
Size Elastic Relaxed Elastic Extended
(Minimum) X-Small 5-3/4 7 Small 6-1/2 8 Medium 7-1/4 9 Large 8 10 X-Large 9 11 XX-Large 10 12 XXX-Large 11 13 Tolerance 0, -1/4 ---
3.6.2.10 Slide fastener thongs. Slide fastener thongs (see 3.4.10) shall have the loose ends bartacked together and ends shall be seared.
3.6.2.11 Bottom tunnel. The liner jacket bottom shall be faced with the nylon reinforcement material (see 3.4.2) creating a 1 (±1/8) inch wide tunnel. The tunnel shall have two (2) grommets attached to the reinforcement material at side seams seam in accordance with marks on the pattern.
3.6.2.11.1 Drawcord. The drawcord shall be threaded through the barrel locks and grommets. The drawcord shall have an over hand knot below each barrel lock. The ends of the drawcord shall be bartacked to each side of the front slide fastener seam allowance. The bartacks shall not be visible. The cut lengths for the drawcords shall be as specified in Table X.
TABLE X. Drawcord (inches)
Size Cut Length X-Small 52 Small 56 Medium 60 Large 64 X-Large 68 XX-Large 72 XXX-Large 76 Tolerance ± 1/2
3.6.2.11.2 Barrel lock attachment. The barrel locks shall be attached at the side seams with a loop of nylon tape which shall be threaded through the barrel lock. The ends of the loop shall be inserted into, and caught in the stitching at the top of the facing, centered on the side seam. The finished opening for the attachment loop shall be a minimum of 1-1/2 inches.
1/8" cord with overhand knot
3.7 Finished measurements. The liner jacket shall conform to the measurements specified in Table XI and Table XII. See 4.3.5.
TABLE XI. Finished measurements (inches).
Size Half Chest (A)
Center Back Length (B)
Sleeve Length (C)
Half Bottom (D)
XX-Short
X-Small 21 24-3/4 28-1/2 21 Small 23 25-1/4 28-3/4 23 Medium 25 25-3/4 29 25 Large ---- ---- ---- ---- X-Large ---- ---- ---- ---- XX-Large ---- ---- ---- ---- XXX-Large ---- ---- ---- ----
X-Short
X-Small 21 25-3/4 29 21 Small 23 26-1/4 29-1/4 23 Medium 25 26-3/4 29-1/2 25 Large 27 27-1/4 29-3/4 27 X-Large ---- ---- ---- ---- XX-Large ---- ---- ---- ---- XXX-Large ---- ---- ---- ----
Short
X-Small 21 26-3/4 29-1/2 21 Small 23 27-1/4 29-3/4 23 Medium 25 27-3/4 30 25 Large 27 28-1/4 30-1/4 27 X-Large 29 28-3/4 30-1/2 29 XX-Large 31 29-1/4 30-3/4 31 XXX-Large 33 29-3/4 31 33
Regular
X-Small 21 28-1/2 30-1/2 21 Small 23 28-3/4 30-3/4 23 Medium 25 29-1/4 31 25 Large 27 29-3/4 31-1/4 27 X-Large 29 30-1/4 31-1/2 29 XX-Large 31 30-3/4 31-3/4 31 XXX-Large 33 31-1/4 32 33
TABLE XI. Finished measurements (inches) - continued.
Size Half Chest (A)
Center Back Length (B)
Sleeve Length (C)
Half Bottom (D)
Long
X-Small 21 29-3/4 31-1/2 21 Small 23 30-1/4 31-3/4 23 Medium 25 30-3/4 32 25 Large 27 31-1/4 32-1/4 27 X-Large 29 31-3/4 32-1/2 29 XX-Large 31 32-1/4 32-3/4 31 XXX-Large 33 32-3/4 33 33
X-Long
X-Small 21 31-1/4 32-1/2 21 Small 23 31-3/4 32-3/4 23 Medium 25 32-1/4 33 25 Large 27 32-3/4 33-1/4 27 X-Large 29 33-1/4 33-1/2 29 XX-Large 31 33-3/4 33-3/4 31 XXX-Large 33 34-1/4 34 33
XX-Long
X-Small ---- ---- ---- ---- Small 23 33-1/4 33-3/4 23 Medium 25 33-3/4 34 25 Large 27 34-1/4 34-1/4 27 X-Large 29 34-3/4 34-1/2 29 XX-Large 31 35-1/4 34-3/4 31 XXX-Large 33 35-3/4 35 33
XXX-Long
X-Small ---- ---- ---- ---- Small 23 34-3/4 34-3/4 23 Medium 25 35-1/4 35 25 Large 27 35-3/4 35-1/4 27 X-Large 29 36-1/4 35-1/2 29 XX-Large 31 36-3/4 35-3/4 31 XXX-Large 33 37-1/4 36 33 Tolerance 1/2 1/2 1/2 3/4
TABLE XII. Rank Tab and Collar finished measurements (inches)
Point of Measure (all sizes)
Rank tab (width x length) (E)
Collar (height) (F)
Measurement 1-5/8 x 4 3-1/8 Tolerance ± 1/8 ± 1/4
3.8 Toxicity. The finished liner jacket shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.3.4.2. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used (see 6.2).
3.9 Government loaned property. When required, a set of interoperable slide fasteners that are tagged for identification, will be provided by the Government, to the contractor to determine the liner jacket’s interoperability with the NCTRF PD 04-09 and NCTRF PD 02-16 parkas. The contractor shall return the loaned property to the Government once contract is complete (see 6.3.2).
3.10 Workmanship. The finished liner jacket shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The line jacket shall be free from irregularities or defects that affect form, fit, and function, loose threads, foreign matter and defects as defined in this purchase description. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality level.
4. VERIFICATION
4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:
a. First article inspection (see 4.2).
b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3).
4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected as specified in 4.3.3, 4.3.4, and 4.3.5 for compliance with design, construction, workmanship and dimensional requirements and tested in accordance with 4.3.1.1.
4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the inspection and testing specified in
4.3.1 through 4.3.5. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 except where otherwise indicated. Requests for use of equivalent items shall be accompanied with test results and submitted to the procuring agency. See 6.2.
4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable procurement documents.
4.3.1.1 Component testing. The components specified in Section 3 shall be tested for the characteristics and test methods listed in Table XIII. All test samples shall be conditioned in accordance with ASTM D1776/D1776M. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.
The testing requirements and test sampling plan shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.
TABLE XIII. Component tests
Material Characteristic Requirement Test Method Basic material
Fiber content 3.4.1 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
Weight Table I ASTM D3776/D3776M, Opt. C
Knit structure 3.4.1 Visual 1/ Bursting strength Table I ASTM D3787 pH Table I AATCC TM81
Colorfastness:
Laundering (3 cycles)
Light (170 kJ at 420nm or
40 AFU)
Perspiration (alkaline/acid) Crocking (dry/wet
Table I AATCC TM61, Test 2A 2/
AATCC TM16.2 or
AATCC TM16.3 3/
AATCC TM15 2 /
AATCC TM8 4/
Dimensional Change (after 5 laundering cycles):
Wales and Courses
Table I AATCC TM135
(2) II Aii 5/
Thickness at 0.6 psi, inch Table I ASTM D1777 Shade evaluation 3.4.1 AATCC EP9, Option C and
4.3.1.2 Air Permeability Table I ASTM D737 Water Repellency: Spray Table I AATCC TM22 Resistance to pilling Table I ASTM D3512/D3512M Appearance after 5 laundering cycles (pilling)
Table I AATCC 135, (2), II, Aii and
ASTM D3512/D3512M 6/
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TABLE XIII. Component tests (continued).
Reinforcement material
Fiber Content 3.4.2 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
Weight Table II ASTM D3776/D3766M, Option C
Weave 3.4.2 Visual 1/ Yarns per inch:
Warp and Filling
Table II ASTM D3775
Breaking strength:
Warp and Filling
Table II ASTM D5034
Tearing strength:
Warp and Filling
Table II ASTM D1424
Colorfastness:
Laundering (3 cycles)
Light (170 kJ at 420nm or 40 AFU) Perspiration (alkaline/acid)
Crocking (dry/wet)
Table II AATCC 61, Test 2A 2/
AATCC TM16.2 or
AATCC TM16.3 3/
AATCC TM15 2/
AATCC TM8 4/
Dimensional Change After 5 laundering cycles:
Warp and Filling
Table II AATCC TM135
(2) II Aii 5/
Shade evaluation 3.4.1 AATCC EP9, Option C and 4.3.1.2
Tricot mesh knit cloth
Weight Table IV
ASTM D3776/D3776M,
Option C
Colorfastness to:
Laundering (3 cycles) Light (170 kJ at 420nm or
40 AFU)
Perspiration (alkaline/acid) Crocking (dry/wet)
3.4.4 AATCC 61, Test 2A 2/
AATCC 16.2 or TM
AATCC 16.3 3/
AATCC TM15 2/
AATCC TM8 4/
Dimensional Change After 5 laundering cycles Wales and Courses
Table IV
AATCC TM135
(2) II Aii 5/
Knit structure 3.4.4 Visual 1/
Fiber content 3.4.4 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
TABLE XIII. Component tests (continued).
Brushed tricot knit cloth
Fiber content 3.4.5 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
Knit structure 3.4.5 Visual 1/
Weight (oz/yd²) Table V ASTM D3776/D3766M, Opt. C
Colorfastness:
Laundering (3 cycles) Light (170 kJ at 420nm or 40 AFU) Perspiration (alkaline/acid) Crocking (dry/wet)
3.4.5 AATCC 61, Test 2A 2/ AATCC 16.2 or 16.3 3/
AATCC TM15 2/
AATCC TM8 4/
Dimensional Change After 5 laundering cycles Wales and Courses
Table V
AATCC 135
(2) II Aii 5/
Binding cloth Weight 3.4.6 ASTM D3776/D3776M, Option C
Knit structure 3.4.6 Visual 1/ Fiber content 3.4.6 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
Cloth, interlining (nonwoven)
All 3.4.7 MIL-C-44296
Drawcord All 3.4.11 MIL-DTL-43701 Drawcord, alternate
Breaking strength 3.4.11.1 ASTM D5034 Fiber content 3.4.11.1 MIL-DTL-43701 Diameter 3.4.11.1 MIL-DTL-43701
Barrel lock All 3.4.14 DWG 2-6-1014 Slide fasteners All
Tape fiber content 3.4.9
A-A-55634
AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
Slide fastener thong
Fiber content 3.4.10 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
Nylon tape All 3.4.12 MIL-DTL-5038 Hook and loop fastener tape
All 3.4.16 A-A-55126
Labels All 3.4.17 MIL-DTL-32075 Thread All 3.4.8 A-A-50199 Webbing, elastic
Fiber content
Elongation Yarn count Courses per inch
3.4.15 AATCC TM20A or
ASTM D276
ASTM D4964
ASTM D1059
ASTM D8007
Grommet All 3.4.13 NASM 16491 1/ One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the result shall be reported as “pass" or "fail".
2/ Rated using the AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2.
3/ Only one specimen per sample unit is required and rated. Rated using the AATCC EP1.
4/ Rated using the AATCC EP8.
5/ The specimen shall be laundered and dried five (5) complete cycles. The specimen shall be dried after each of the (5) launderings cycles. The cloth shall not be pressed prior to measurement.
6/ The test method is cited for pilling rating scale purposes only. Only one specimen per sample unit is required and rated.
4.3.1.2 Visual shade examination. In accordance with the contract and/or purchase order (see 6.2), the finished cloth shall be examined visually for shade matching. The color for AMS-STD-595 Black Color Chip 27041 and the shade and appearance for Navy shade Coyote 3758 and Coast Guard shade Blue 3362 for the basic material in 3.4.1 and the reinforcement material in 3.5.2 shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option C (35° angle viewing position) with sources simulating the following:
Description Color temperature (K)
Foot Candles (LM/ft2)
Daylight D65 6500 (± 200) 100-125 Daylight D75 7500 (± 200) 100-125 Incandescent A 2856 (± 200) 100-125
4.3.2.In-process examination. Visual and dimensional examinations shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with requirements specified in Section 3. Materials and components, which can be classified as having a defect in accordance with Table XIV, shall be removed from production.
4.3.3 End item visual examination. Each finished liner jacket selected for visual examination shall be examined for the critical, major and minor defects specified in Table XIV. The lot size shall be expressed in units of liner jackets.
THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK.
TABLE XIV. End item visual defects.
Examination Defect Classification Critical Major Minor Material defects Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, thin place, dye streak.
Color not as specified. 102
Misweave affecting appearance or serviceability.
Components Component part defective, omitted, distorted, full, tight, broken or twisted.
Component not as specified 105
Grommets omitted, added, not securely caught in fabric, not as specified type, improperly clinched, broken, cracked, or otherwise defective
Component omitted 107
Color not as specified 108
Seams and stitches Any part of liner jacket caught in any unrelated stitching.
Seams puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted, irregular or open.
Loose or tight stitch tension. 111
Broken or missing thread or stitch. 112
Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2 inch
Ends of all seams and stitches, when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2 inch
Gauge of stitching uneven or not as specified 203 Assembly/ Construction
Needle chew, visible mend, edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to cloth.
Raw edge affecting appearance or serviceability.
The edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds or more than 1/8 inch
Assembly/ Construction (continued)
Any required operation omitted or improperly performed
Liner jacket attachment loop not as specified, missing, or twisted
Collar curls, puckers, pleats, or twists 118
Sleeve(s) puckered or pleated or poorly shaped.
Sleeves uneven in length more than 1/2 inch. 120
Rank tab not positioned correctly. 121
Barrel Lock Not properly attached 122
Drawcord Drawcord caught in hem, casing or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord
Length not as specified 124
Drawcord not anchored 125
Slide fasteners, general
Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective or not as specified
Any slide fastener not closing as specified 127
Any length not as specified 128
Component catching in any slide fastener during opening or closing
Fronts out of alignment, causing twist when closed
Slide fasteners, liner jacket attachment
Center front slide fastener not interchangeable or interoperable with the parka (NCTRF PD 04-09 and NCTRF PD 02-16).
Slide fastener has melted individual elements or position is reversed (pin side or retainer box/slider of slide fastener installation reversed)
Labels, personal ID and size
Omitted, illegible, or incorrect 131
Incorrectly placed or attached 204 Open seams 1/ More than 1/8 inch up to 1/4 inch 205
More than 1/4 inch 132
Shaded parts 2/ Variation in shade within a part 133
Variation in shade between parts 134
Any part required to be cut from one piece of material shaded
Evenness Front yoke stitch lines more than 1/4 inch out of horizontal alignment
Length of fronts uneven by more than 1/4 inch at top or bottom when closed; Collar height uneven in length by 1/4 inch or more
Front reinforcement panels more than 1/8 inch out of horizontal alignment; pockets more than 1/4 inch out of horizontal alignment
Bartacks/ backtacks
More than two bartacks or backtacks not in specified location, not secure, or not serving intended purpose
Two or less bartacks or backtacks not in specified location, not secure, or not serving intended purpose
Any loose stitching, incomplete or broken 208 Fastener tape, hook and loop
Misplaces, damaged, or out of alignment causing bulge, hook and loop unable to mate
Barcode label Omitted, incorrect, illegible, or not attached where specified.
Barcode not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HR I) omitted or illegible.
Barcode not visible on folded, packaged Item.
Bar code attachment causes damage to the item.
Cleanness Spot, stain, or odor. 209 Excessive thread ends not trimmed 210 Any spot, streak, stain, or odor of a permanent nature on any portion of a garment.
Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of liner jacket or concealed.
Thread ends not trimmed throughout liner jacket.
Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished liner jacket.
1/ One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitute an open seam.
On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam is open. Raw or cut edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.
2/ Parts suspected as being shaded shall be examined at a distance of 3 feet against the background of the other parts and colors of the garment. When the shade difference is readily discernible under these examining conditions, it shall be scored as a shaded part.
4.3.4 End item testing. The liner jacket shall be tested as specified in 4.3.5.1 for the requirements specified in 3.4. The lot size shall be expressed in units of liner jackets. The sample unit shall be one liner jacket.
4.3.4.1 Slide fastener interoperability. The liner jacket is constructed with a slide fastener for attachment to a parka (NCTRF PD 04-09 and NCTRF PD 02-16). The operation of the liner jacket slide fastener shall be validated with the use of interoperability guide samples provided as Government Loaned Property (see 6.3.2) to ensure the specified slide fasteners were used in the manufacture of the parka. To evaluate the slide fastener interoperability, a guide sample in the appropriate size shall be engaged to the respective to the slide fasteners on the inside facings of the parka. The interoperability evaluation shall also validate the size and length, dynamic operation (opening and closing), top stop alignment, location, placement, and the specified construction are in accordance with the requirements stated in this document. Any non-conformance to any of the interoperability requirements of the slide fastener shall be considered a failure.
4.3.4.2 Toxicity test. When required, (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted on laboratory animals. When the results of these studies indicate the finished liner jacket is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure. (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.8) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required on a finished liner jacket (see 6.2).
4.3.5 End item dimensional component examination. Any suitable measuring device may be used to measure the dimension of a component of the liner jacket or the finished liner jacket. One component specimen or one liner jacket at a minimum shall be measured for dimensional conformance. The results of the examination shall be recorded as pass or fail. Any component dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as major defect 145. Any liner jacket’s dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classed as a major defect 146.
4.3.5.1 Dimensional examination. All liner jackets selected for dimensional examination measurements shall be taken with all slide fasteners closed and the liner jacket lying flat and smooth. See 3.7
A. Half chest. With the liner jacket faced down, measure from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole.
B. Back length. Measure from collar seam along center back to bottom edge of liner jacket.
C. Sleeve length. Measure along outside fold of sleeve from collar setting seam to bottom of elasticized cuff.
D. Half bottom. Measure across bottom from folded edge to folded edge.
E. Rank tab. Measure the finished tab from side to side (width) and from the top edge to the point (length).
F. Collar height. Measure from the collar joining seam to the top edge at the center back.
5. PACKAGING
5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency, or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.
6. NOTES
This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.
6.1 Intended use. The liner jacket is for wear by military personnel of the Department of Defense and may be worn as a stand-alone item. The liner jacket may also be worn as a zip-in insulation layer for the Navy Working Uniform (NWU) Type II and NWU Type III parkas and the Cold Weather Parka, Class 1 and 2.
6.2 Acquisition requirements. Procurement documents should specify the following:
a. Title, number and date of this specification including any amendments.
b. Classes, styles, sizes and lengths required (see 1.2).
c. Shade (color) standard sample (see 3.4.1.1).
d. National stock number
e. Applicable Government patterns (see 3.5.1).
f. Specific issue of individual documents references.
g. When first article inspection is required.
h. Number of first article inspection samples (see 3.1).
i. Name and address of the first inspection facility; and the name and address of the Government activity responsible for conducting the first article inspection program.
j. When toxicity testing is required (see 4.3.4.2).
k. Inspection conditions.
l. Conformance inspection and acceptance quality limits.
m. Packaging required (see 5.1).
6.3 Suggested source of supplies.
6.3.1 Slide fasteners. Slide fasteners known to meet the requirements in 3.4.9 are available from YKK (USA) Inc., c/o Diversified Marketing Group, Inc., 8225 Village Harbor Dr., Cornelius, NC 28031, ( 704) 929-2701.
6.3.2 Government-loaned property. The contracting officer should…
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