3c_1.4 Ref Doc Parka.pdf

CG/PD 15-08

19 Mar 2015

SUPERCEDING

CG/PD 13-02

1 March 2013

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

PARKA, FOUL/WET WEATHER

This document is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Homeland Security.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers a nylon, three-layer laminated, waterproof, windproof, and moisture-vapor-permeable parka intended to be worn by members of the US Coast Guard.

1.2 Classification. The parka shall be one type in the following sizes as specified

Length Size X-SHORT SHORT REGULAR LONG X-LONG XX-LONG

X-Small X X X X X X Small X X X X X X Medium X X X X X X Large X X X X X X X-Large X X X X X X XX-Large X X X X X X

XXX-

Large

X X X X X X

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to the U.S Coast Guard Clothing Design and Technical Office, 15 Kansas Street, Building 86, Natick, MA 01760.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3, 4 or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

MILITARY SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-T-3530 Thread and Twine: Mildew Resistant or Water Repellent Treated

MIL-PRF-5038 Tape, Textile and Webbing, Textile, Reinforcing Nylon MIL-DTL-32072 Thread, Polyester MIL-C-43701 Cord, Elastic, Nylon or Polyester

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50186 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven A-A-52110 Cloth, Plain Weave, Polyester/Cotton for pockets (Water Repellant) A-A-55126 Fastener, Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)

2.3 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY

NCTRF PD 6-14 Cloth, Waterproof and Moisture Vapor Permeable

(Copies of this document are available at the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Kansas Street, Natick, MA or the procuring activity)

2.4 Non Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS

ASTM D 751 Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics ASTM D 6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies are available for purchase on-line at www.astm.org. or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.)

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent and Laundry Detergents in General

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, research Triangle Park, NC 27709- 2215.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies are available on-line at http://www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.)

2.5 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specified exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.2.

3.2 Recycled recovered or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

http://www.astm.org/ http://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.asq.org/

3.3 Design. The parka shall be USCG Blue 3362 and shall have the following features:

- Non-Wicking barrier at bottom hem, 3/4 inch from bottom edge

- Constructed of seam sealed waterproof, windproof and breathable basic shell fabric

- Collar with Chin Guard located on the left side of the collar

- Raglan Barrel sleeves

- Double Storm Flaps with Hook and Loop closure covering a two way front slide fastener

- Permanent drop-in or roll up hood design with drawcord closure

- Tunneled, adjustable drawcord waist and Barrel locks, 1 inch from inside pocket folded edge

- Cargo style front pockets with flaps and side entry hand warmers

- Half elasticized cuff with adjustable tab with hooks and loop closure, inside on each cuff has one button for securing removable liner

- Hanger Loop located inside center back, 1 inch wide.

- Inside Pocket on left side, entry from left side storm flap

- Collar; 4-1/2 +/- 1/8 inches height at collar points and center back with topstitching at 1/4 inch from edge

- Collar closure; 3 hook of 1 inch wide by 2 inches in length

- Hooks placing is horizontal under collar

- Belt loop of 3/8 inch by 2 3/4 inch in length is located on the left side on the collar

- Right side of the collar shall have a 1-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches hook

- Double storm closure – On left side has a storm tab, 2-1/4 inches by 7 inches in length

- Each tab has one hook and loop of 1-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 inches. Distance in between hook and loop 1 inch +/- 1/8 inch and the tab aligns with top stitch of storm flap

- Cargo Pocket/Hand Warmer; finished dimensions for hand warmer pocket opening:

Inseams Xshort, Short and Regular – 7-1/2 inches, Inseams Long, XLong and XXLong – 8 inches

3.4 Material.

3.4.1 Basic Material. The basic material for the parka shall be a 100% nylon cloth, laminated, waterproof, windproof, and moisture vapor permeable material in accordance with NCTRF PD 6-14. The color shall be CG Blue 3362.

3.4.2 Pocketing Material. The material for the upper left front inside pocket shall be 65% Poly/35% Cotton, Poplin, water repellant conforming to A-A-52110. The color shall be black.

3.4.3 Interlining. The interlining for left front, right front storm flaps, and visor shall be buckram cloth, natural or bleached, conforming to Type I of A-A-50186.

3.4.4 Non-Wicking barrier: The Non-wicking barrier shall be polyurethane adhesive, 2 inches wide and minimum of 4.5 ml thick.

3.5 Components

3.5.1 Seam sealing tape. The tape for covering and sealing all designated seams and stitching shall be cut in 1 (+1/8) inch wide strips from the material specified in 3.5.1.1 as applicable. The seam tape shall be Gore 3-L BLACK:6GTAM025BLKN or equal.

3.5.1.1 Sealing tape for basic material made with polytetrafluoroethylene film. The sealing tape shall be black nylon tricot, and shall be cut from laminated material fabricated in layers meeting the following requirements:

a. Backing - Nylon tricot fabric weighing 1.5 ounces per square yard minimum.

b. Middle layer - Microporous expanded polytetrafluoroethylene film weighing

0.5 ounces per square yard minimum.

c. Adhesive – Thermoplastic in sufficient thickness to meet the requirements specified in 3.6.2.

3.5.2 Hood Drawcord tape. Hood drawcord shall be flat 1/2-inch nylon tape, conforming to type III, class 2 of MIL-PRF-5038. The color shall be black.

3.5.3 Hangerloop. The hanger loop shall be flat; 1 inch wide made from the material specified in 3.4.1.

3.5.4 Drawcord elastic. The parka waist drawcord shall be 3/16-inch diameter rubber elastic (multi-strand) with braided, nylon or polyester covering, conforming to type II of MIL-C-43701. The color shall be black.

3.5.5 Tape, fasteners hook and loop. The nylon fastener tapes shall conform to type II, class 1 of A-A-55126. 1 and 1 1/2 inches width shall be used. The color shall be black.

3.5.6 Fastener, slide, interlocking. All slide fasteners shall conform to A-A-55634, lengths shall be as specified, and the color shall be black. Each slide fastener slider shall be equipped with a thong. The front entry slide fastener shall be type IV, Style 8, size MH, individual element molded plastic and be supplied with two sliders, enabling a two-way opening. The front entry slide fastener must meet 130 pounds minimum crosswise strength as specified in A-A-55634.

Parka Front Slide Fastener

YKK -

VFML-86/6 DA E /DAG E 3/4 GOV or equal.

Parka inside Slide Fastener

YKK -

CNOL-57L 5/8 or equal.

CUT FASTENER TAPE ACCORDING THE FOLLOWING LENGTH:

1) Front opening flap 1 inch long & 1 inch wide. (7 hook; 7 loop)

2) Insignia tab 1 inch long, 1 inch wide. (1 hook; 1 loop)

3) Sleeve tab 1 1/2 inch long, 1-1/2 inch wide. (2 hook)

4) Sleeve cuff 5 inch long, 1 1/2 inch wide. (2 loop)

5) Inner pocket full pocket opening long, 1 inch wide. (1 hook; 1 loop)

6) Outer collar 2 inch long, 1 inch wide. (3 hook)

7) Hood 2 inch long 1 inch wide. (3 loop)

8) Cargo pocket and cargo flap according the following size (1 inch wide, 1-1/2 inch long)

9) Cuff elastic webbing 5 inch long, 1 1/2 inch wide.

10) Waist adjustment cord according the size:

11) X Small 30 1/2; Small 34 1/2; Medium 38 1/2; Large 42 1/2; X Large 46 1/2;

XX Large 50 1/2.

12) Hood adjustment cord according the size; x small 37; small 41; medium; large, x large 40; xx large 41.

13) Storm Flap Tab 2” long & 1 1/2” wide. (1 hook; 1 loop)

Tolerance for fastener tape 2-inch = +/- 1/16 inch; for fastener tape 5 inch at forward, cord, elastic webbing = +/- 1/8 inch.

3.5.7 Barrel lock. The barrel locks for the ends of the hood drawcord shall be black, ITW Nexus Barrel lock or equivalent.

3.5.8 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be polyester, size B, 2 or 3 ply, shade black conforming to Type I, Class 1, Subclass B of MIL-DTL-32072. As an alternate; tex size 40/2 or 3 ply (ticket 50) polyester core thread conforming to A-A- 50199 Water Repellent treated in accordance to MIL-T-3530.

3.5.9 Elastic. The elastic for sleeve cuff shall 1-1/2" Polyester Knitted Elastic Medium Power, White.

3.5.10 Button. The button for the Sleeve Cuff shall conform to V-B-871F 30-line type II Class D, Style 26 Color Black.

3.6 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in Table I and herein.

3.6.1 Stitches seams, and stitching. All stitches seams 8-10 and stitching shall conform to ASTM D6193. The type of seam, stitching and stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table II. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no-raw edges, run-offs, pleats, pucker or open seams occur. When two or more methods of seams or stitches are given for the same operation, either one may be used.

3.6.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/2 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch.

Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the materials sewn. All 301 stitch and bartack thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:

a. When threads breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of’1/2 inch beyond the defective area: onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of stitching are not required to be backstitched.

3.6.1.2 Type 502, 503, 515 or 516 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.6.l.l. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length not less than 1/4 inch but more than 1/2 inch.

3.6.1.3 Bartacks. Unless otherwise specified, all bartacks shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and 1/8 inch wide, and shall contain 28 stitches. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. All thread ends shall be trimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch.

3.6.1.4 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the required stitch patterns provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three tying overlapping or back stitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

TABLE I. Construction

OPERATION

Seam Type Stitch

Type Stitches per

Inch Make Left and Right Front Opening Flaps

1. Attach interlining at 1/16 inch SSbd-1 301 8-10

2. Attach loop to left flap (7) according to marks

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

3. Attach hook to right flap (7) through all plies

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

Note: the right flap hook tape can be set after topstitch

4. Close sides 1/4 inch seam allowance SSe-2a 301 8-10 3.Top stitch flaps 1/4 inch seam allowance SSe-2b 301 8-10

4. Close sides 1/4 inch seam allowance SSe-2a 301 8-10 II. Make Front Pocket Flaps

1. Attach loop to flaps 1 1/2 from top raw edge & 5/8 +/- 1/16 side raw edge

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

2. Close sides 1/4 inch Sse-2 SSe-2a 301 8-10

3. Top stitch flaps 1/4 inch Sse-2 Sse-2b 301 8-10 III. Make Lower Front Pockets

1. Turn according to marks on pattern, hem pocket 1/4 inch

EFa-1 301 8-10

2. Attach hook 1/4 from top & 3/8 from raw edge out seams side

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

3. Position pocket 1-1/4” from top of lower pocket (wrong side face up) according pattern mark. Stitch 1/4" top, bottom from notch to notch.

SSe-2a 301 8-10

4. Top stitch pocket side opening 1/8 inch SSe-2b 301 8-10

5. Pre-stitch front edges of pocket, lower pocket and inner pocket at top and bottom 1/8 from edge.

Ssa-1 301 8-10

6. Stitch lower pocket to inner pocket (leaving 8” pocket opening) 1/8” at front edge and stitch front side of pocket

Sse-1 301 8-10

7. Bartack ends of pocket opening Brtck 28

8. Make eyelet to lower front 5/8” from top and 5” from front edge

Eyelet 301/401

9. Attach pocket flaps to lower front with logo label on right flap 1/4 inch from edge

Ssa-1 301 8-10

IV. Make Sleeve Tabs

1. Stitch hook tape to the tab Lsbj-1 301 8-10

2. Fold tab face to face and stitch 1/4 inch Sse-2a 301 8-10 from edge. Turn and top stitch 1/8 inch from edge.

3. The finished tab shall measure 2 inches wide and 4 inches long (+ 1/16) inch.

Osf-1 301 8-10

V. Make Sleeve Cuffs 1a. Attach loop 7/8 inch from center cuff 1/2 inch from bottom raw edge Lsbj-1 301 8-10

1b. Preset sleeve tab matching loop tape, stitch 1/8 inch from edge.

SSa-1 301 8-10

2. Fold cuff lengthwise elastic inside 1” (1- 3/8)inch from loop insert stitch across cuff catching elastic

301 8-10

3. Attach tab and other side of elastic and close cuff 1/4 inch. At sides turn to right side from raw edge.

SSa-1 301 8-10

4. Fold pre-stitch 1/16 inch top edges SSa-1 301 8-10

5. Attach button at end of center stitch on side of cuff (side opposite to tab).

301 8-10

VI. Make Hood tunnel

1. (On wrong side of fabric) Fold ends 1/2 inch

Efb-1 301 and top stitch 1/4 inch.

2. Fold in half, insert draw tape, stitch to center

301-SSV-1 301

3. Pre-stitch 1/16 inch the tunnel from raw edge.

301-SSa-1 301

VII. Make Hood

1. Align right and left panels, close center 1/4 inch from raw edge.

Ssa-1 301 8-10

2. Attach loops to back of hood 1/2 inch from bottom, one on center and one on each side according to pattern mark. Attach loops 1/8 inch.

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

3. Seal tape loops and hood center

4. Attach interlining piece to hood visor 1/16 inch from bottom edge.

SSa-1 301 8-10

5. Attach visor to hood 1/4 inch according to notch

Sse-2a

6. Attach hood tunnel to hood 1/4 inch fold hood tunnel lengthwise and invert draw tape, stitch across folded tunnel. Stitch close tunnel.

SSa-1 301 8-10

7. Top stitch tunnel sides 1/8 inch and top stitch visor 1/4 inch from edge.

SSe-2b 301 8-10

8. Seal tape tunnel front edge VIII. Make Collar

1. Turn 1/4 inch and top stitch 1/16 inch (hem between notches).

Efa-1 301 8-10

2. Attach hook one on each center notch. Lsbj-1 301 8-10

3. Join top and under collar 1/4 inch from edge.

Ssa-1 301 8-10

IX. Make slide fastener neck tab 1.Join 1/4 inch 2.Top stitch 1/4 inch

3. Preset tab to slide Ssa-1 301 8-10 X. Make Inner Pockets

1. Attach combination label to top inner pocket pre-set care and size label

SSa-1 Lsbj-1 301 8-10

2. Attach loop to bottom inner pocket opening according to marks 1/8 inch. Stitch hook to top pocket opening according to marks.

Lsbj-1 301

3. Close inner pocket in safety with care label on top of sealing tape.

SSa-2 515, 516,519

4. Bartack or line tack two pieces 1x2 inches to inner pocket according to marks.

SSa-1 301- Bartack

XI. Make hanger loop

1. Fold in and top stitch sides 1/16 inch. EFp-2 301 8-10

2. The finished loop shall measure 1/2 inch wide and 6 inches long

EFp-2 301

3. Make 1 buttonhole 7/8 inch cut on the center of the hanger loop.

4. Bartack hanger loop piece leaving 2-1/2 (+1/4) inch opening on wrong side of fabric between bartack.

Bartack 28

5. Seal hanger on bartack XII. Make back

1. Attach hanger loop to top of back 1/4 inch from raw edge, centralized on back. Lsbj-1 301 8-10

2. Seal tape, hanger piece on back XIII. Make Rank tab.

Place face to face the rank tab and stitch 1/4 inch from raw edge, turn and top stitch 1/8 inch from folded edge.

Sse-2a Sse-2b

Stitch a 1 inch by 1 inch loop tape 1/8 (+ 1/16) inch from edge 1/2 inch from point and 1/4 inch from sides.

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

XIV. ASSEMBLY

1. Join lower fronts to upper fronts 1/4 inch Ssa-1 301 8-10

2. Join sleeves to fronts and back 1/4 inch the front sleeve have 2 notches.

SSA-1 301 8-10

3. Close sides 1/4 inch SSa-1 301 8-10

4. Seal tape, seams (except upper and lower front) seams

5. Attach outer collar ends to parka SSa-1 301 8-10

6. Attach sleeve cuffs to sleeves 1/4 inch from raw edge Ssa-1 301 8-10

7. Attach waist tunnel to parka 1/4 inch from edges according to patterns mark.

SSau-2 (Finished)

a. Sew tunnel to pocket seams, topstitch pocket flap 1/8 inch.

SSau-2

b. Stitch bottom of tunnel (7/8 gage inch between seams

Ssau-2 301

8. Topstitch collar ends outside Attach flaps to fronts 1/8 inch, top stitch 1/8 inch.

Lsq-2b Lst-2a

301 8-10

9. Seal tape seams

10. Attach hood to parka 1/4 inch SSA-1 301 8-10

11. Attach outer zipper with tab attached to fronts with outer collar covering zipper,

1. Attach 2nd zipper (inner) align with zipper

#1 stitch 1/8 from edge

Ssa-1

Ssa-1

8-10

12. Attach hook to outer side of inner pocket and slide fastener 1/8 inch.

Lsbj-1 301 8-10

13. Close collar at neckline Ssa-1 301 8-10

14. Pre set collar ends at inside 301

15. Seal tape inner collar

16. Attach inner pocket to outer slide fastener and upper left front 1/4 inch Backstitch, ends.

Sse-2a 301 8-10

17. Top stitch pocket 1/4 inch to upper front Sse-2b 301 8-10

18. With inner slide fastener, top stitch parka 1/4 inch(leaving pocket opening on left front, tack ends)

Lsq-2b 3

19. Top stitch outer & inner collar 1/4 inch from top edge

Sse-2b 301 8-10

20. Hem parka 1/8 inch from the folded edge. Efb-1 301 8-10

21. Seal tape pocket to sleeve

a. Put seal tape piece under pocket and seal top tape and under tape to sleeve

22. Attach thongs to outer & inner slide fastener

23. Attach non-wicking Barrier at bottom hem 3/4 inch from raw edge

24. Put barrel locks to hood tape and waistcord and knot the ends

25. Stitch rank tab to storm flap 1/8 to 3/16 Sse-2a 301 8-10 inch from raw edge, fold over and top stitch 1/4 inch

Sse-2b

26. Attach rank tab 1/8 to 3 1/6 inch from raw edge topstitch 1/4

27. Storm Flap

a) Stitch, loop 1/8 to 3/16 inch from edge through one ply according to marks on pattern.

b) Attach storm flap to left side of parka 1/4 inch from raw edge.

c) Turn and top stitch 1/4 inch

d) Stitch hook through both plies 1/8 to 3/16 from edge according to marks on pattern

e) Attach storm flap to right side of parker 1/4 inch from raw edge

f) turn and top stitch 1/4 inch

3.6.2 Heat sealing. Seams and stitching as indicated in Table III shall be sealed with heat-sealing tape on the inside of the parka. The entire width of the seam tape shall be uniformly sealed over the seam or stitching. All seam tapes shall be applied without tension and shall be applied so that a minimum of 1/8 inch overlap is on both sides of the sewn seam and the back knit of the laminated fabric adjacent to the seam tape shall not be melted to expose the plastic film layer of the laminated fabric. All seam tapes shall overlap a minimum of 3/4 inch at joining points and all seam tape ends shall be sealed such that the ends shall not be lifted when laundered. Sealed seams and sealed stitching shall show no leakage, tape ends shall show no signs of lifting, and the tape, itself, shall show no sign of lifting, curling, bubbling or separation more than 1/8 inch of tape top knit shrinkage such that the tape middle layer is exposed when tested initially and after five laundering cycles. After five laundering cycles, the fabric shall show no change in physical surface appearance when compared to an unlaundered sample.

3.7 Labels

3.7.1 Identification/Instruction label. Each parka shall have an identification/ instruction label. The labels shall show fastness to laundering.

3.7.1.1 Identification/Instruction label. The label shall be as follows:

CONTRACT NUMBER:

NAME OF MANUFACTURER:

PARKA, FOUL/WET WEATHER

100% NYLON

SPO100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE)

MACHINE WASH WARM, RINSE THOROUGHLY

DO NOT USE BLEACH OR FABRIC SOFTENER

DO NOT DRY CLEAN

TUMBLE DRY WARM, STEAM IRON WARM

DO NOT PUNCTURE FABRIC

3.7.1.2 Size Label. The shirt's size-length shall be on a separate label. Information for each size is as specified:

X-Small X-Short X-Small Short Height:

Height: Up to 63 inches From 63 to 67 inches

Chest Men: Up to 33 inches Chest Men: Up to 33 inches

Chest Women: Up to 36 inches Chest Women: Up to 36 inches

X-Small Regular X-Small Long

Height: From 67 to 71 inches Height: From 71 inches and up

Chest Men: Up to 33 inches Chest Men: Up to 33 inches

Chest Women: Up 36 inches Chest Women: Up to 36 inches

X-Small X-Long Small XShort

Height: Over 75 inches Height: Up to 63 inches

Chest Men: Up to 33 inches Chest Men: 33 to 37 inches

Chest Women: Up to 36 inches Chest Women: 36 to 40 inches

Small Short Small Regular Height: From 63 to 67 inches Height: From 71 inches and up

Chest Men: 33 to 37 inches Chest Men: 33 to 37 inches

Chest Women: 36 to 40 inches Chest Women: 36 to 40 inches

Small Long Small XLong

Height: From 71 inches and up Height: Over 75 inches

Chest Men: 33 to 37 inches Chest Men: 33 to 37 inches

Chest Women: 36 to 40 inches Chest Women: 36 to 40 inch

Medium X Short Medium Short

Height: Up to 63 inches Height: From 63 to 67 inches

Chest Men: 37 to 41 inches Chest Men: 37 to 41 inches

Chest Women: 40 to 44 inches Chest Women: 40 to 44 inches

Medium Regular Medium Long

Height: 67 to 71 inches Height: From 71 inches and up Chest Men: 37 to 41 inches Chest Men: 37 to 41 inches

Chest Women: 40 to 44 inches Chest Women: 40 to 44 inches

Medium XLong Large Short

Height: Over 75inches Height: Up to 67 inches

Chest Men: 37 to 41 inches Chest: From 41 to 45 inches

Chest Women: 40 to 44 inches

Large Short Large Regular

Height: Up to 67 inches Height: From 67 to 71 inches

Chest: From 41 to 45 inches Chest: From 41 to 45 inches

Large Long Large XLong

Height: From 71 and up Height: Over 75 inches

Chest: From 41 to 45 inches Chest: From 41 to 45 inches

XLarge Short XLarge Regular

Chest: From 45 inches and up Chest: From 45 inches and up

XLarge Long XLarge XLong

Height: From 71 and up Height: Over 75 inches

Chest: From 45 inches and up Chest: From 45 inches and up

XXLarge Short XXLarge Regular

Chest: Over 49 inches Chest: Over 49 inches

XXLarge Long XXLarge XLong

Height: From 71 inches and up Height: Over 75 inches

Chest: Over 49 inches Chest: Over 49 inches

3.8 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns, which provide an allowance of 3/8 inch for all seams and 1/4 inch for all sealed seams. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is allowed. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s process using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability or appearance requirements.

3.8.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified below and in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in Table II.

TABLE II- List of pattern parts.

Material Nomenclature

Cloth, Laminated Back Upper front Lower front Pocket flap Collar Insignia tab 1/ Slide fastener flap Side Hood Visor Hood tunnel Sleeve Sleeve tab Right front flap Left front flap Sleeve Cuff Lower Outer Pocket Lower Inner Pocket Wind Skirt Facing Storm Flap Tab Hanger Loop Reinforcement Collar Loop

Cloth, cotton buckram Visor interlining Left front flap interlining Right front flap interlining

Lining & Pocketing Chest pockets

3.9 Finished measurements. The parka shall conform to the measurements in Table III.

Parkas shall be measured lying smooth and flat.

Table III- Finished Measurements, in inches

Size Chest Back Length Sleeve Hood flap

Length X-Short X-Small 23 29 1/4 24 1/2 26 1/2

Small 25 29 3/4 24 3/4 27 Medium 27 30 1/4 25 27 1/2

Large 29 30 3/4 25 1/4 28 X-Large 31 31 1/4 25 1/2 28 1/2

XX-Large 33 31 3/4 25 3/4 29 XXX-Large 35 32 1/4 26 29 1/2

Short

X-Small 23 30 1/4 25 1/2 26 1/2 Small 25 30 3/4 25 3/4 27

Medium 27 31 1/4 26 27 1/2 Large 29 31 3/4 26 1/4 28

X-Large 31 32 1/4 26 1/2 28 1/2 XX-Large 33 32 3/4 26 3/4 29

XXX-Large 35 33 1/4 27 29 1/2

Regular X-Small 23 31 1/4 26 1/2 26 1/2

Small 25 31 3/4 26 3/4 27 Medium 27 32 1/4 27 27 1/2

Large 29 32 3/4 27 1/4 28 X-Large 31 33 1/4 27 1/2 28 1/2

XX-Large 33 33 3/4 27 3/4 29 XXX-Large 35 34 1/4 28 29 1/2

Long

X-Small 23 32 1/4 27 1/2 26 1/2 Small 25 32 3/4 27 3/4 27

Medium 27 33 1/4 28 27 1/2 Large 29 33 3/4 28 1/4 28

X-Large 31 34 1/4 28 1/2 28 1/2 XX-Large 33 34 3/4 28 3/4 29

XXX-Large 35 35 1/4 29 29 1/2 Tol: + 3/4 + 3/4 + 1/2 + 1/2

XLong X-Small 23 34 1/4 29 1/2 26 1/2

Small 25 34 3/4 29 3/4 27 Medium 27 35 1/4 30 27 1/2

Large 29 35 3/4 30 1/4 28 X-Large 31 36 1/4 30 1/2 28 1/2

XX-Large 33 36 3/4 30 3/4 29 XXX-Large 35 37 1/4 31 29 1/2

Tol: + 3/4 + 3/4 + 1/2 + 1/2

Half Chest: With slide fastener closed and parka smooth and flat, measure 1/2 chest from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole seams.

Back Length: Measure from center back neck seam to bottom of hem.

Sleeve Length: Measure from armhole seam to bottom of sleeve along underarm seam.

Hood Flap: Measure seam joining hood flap to hood, from end to end following the curve of the hood.

3.9.1 Slide fastener finished measurements. After stitching, the front slide fasteners shall measure not less than 1/4 inch less than the minimum and conform to the measurements in Table IV and V.

Table IV - Slide Fastener finished measurements (outside) , in inches

Size XShort Short Regular Long XLong XSmall 26 3/4 27 3/4 28 3/4 29 3/4 30 3/4 Small 27 1/4 28 1/4 29 1/4 30 1/4 31 1/4

Medium 27 3/4 28 3/4 29 3/4 30 3/4 31 3/4 Large 28 1/4 29 1/4 30 1/4 31 1/4 32 1/4

XLarge 28 3/4 29 3/4 30 3/4 31 3/4 32 3/4 XXLarge 29 1/4 30 1/4 31 1/4 32 1/4 33 1/4 Tolerance +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8

Table V - Slide Fastener finished measurements (inside), in inches

Size XShort Short Regular Long XLong XSmall 23 3/4 24 3/4 25 3/4 26 3/4 27 3/4 Small 24 1/4 25 1/4 26 1/4 27 1/4 28 1/4

Medium 24 3/4 25 3/4 26 3/4 27 3/4 28 3/4 Large 25 1/4 26 1/4 27 1/4 28 1/4 29 1/4

XLarge 25 3/4 26 3/4 27 3/4 27 3/4 28 3/4 XXLarge 26 1/4 27 1/4 28 1/4 29 1/4 30 1/4 Tolerance +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8 +/- 1/8

3.10 Workmanship. After the finished parkas are assembled and have been thoroughly cleaned with all loose thread, lint, foreign matter and spots or stains removed, they shall be examined for the following defects in Table V:

TABLE VI – CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

DEFECT POINT

VALUE

I. MATERIAL DEFECTS AND WORKMANSHIP

a Hole, smash, float or loose slub 3

b. Loose yarn, snagged thread, misweave , broken or missing yarn, thin place

II. CLEANLINESS

a. Any spot, streak, or stain of a permanent nature on any portion of a garment which would be visible when parka is worn

b. Removable spot, streak, or stain on outside of parka 2

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout parka 2

d. Any holding or basting threads visible on outside of the finished parka when applicable.

III. COMPONENT AND ASSEMBLY

a. Any component part or operation omitted (unless otherwise classified herein)

b. Any component not specified (type, size, color,

c. Any component part tight, distorted, pleated or full ( unless otherwise classified herein)

d. Any operation not as specified ( unless otherwise classified herein)

e. The edge of component part required to be forced out having folds of more than 1/8 inch ( unless otherwise classified herein)

f. Any wool parts assembled with the face side on the underside ( unless otherwise specified)

g. Any inside part assembled with the face side (as specified on the underside.

IV. DRAWCORD

a. Any drawcord caught in hem or tunnel stitching restricting use of drawcord.

b. Any end not heat seared 2

c. Any drawcord omitted 3

d. Any end not knotted 2

e. Any drawcord insufficient in length 3

f. Any barrel lock omitted 2 g.. Not caught in center bartack 1

TABLE VI – CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

DEFECT POINT

VALUE

V. SLIDE FASTENER

a. Any part of slide fastener bent, broken, otherwise defective 3

b. Not closing as specified 3

c. Length not as specified 3

d. Color not as specified 2

e. Thong not as specified 2

VI. SHADED PART

1. Variation in shade between two or more parts (except parts which may be cut from ends)

2. Variation in shade within a part (except part which may be cut from ends)

3. Part cut from ends badly shaded

VII. CUTTING

a. Any component part not cut in accordance with specified pattern, directional line, or in accordance with specifications requirements

b. Twill line of any outside part not running in specified direction

c. Any outside component part not cut in the same direction of nap

VIII. SEAM AND STITCHING

1.Seam twisted, pleated, or puckered 1/ 3

2. Part of parker caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

1/

3. Thread break secured by stitching back of the break less than 1/2 inch

4. Ends of all seams and stitching when not caught in other seams or stitching, uneven or backtacked less than 1/2 inch

5. Color not as specified 2

6. Gage of stitching uneven or not as specified 2

7. Edge of seam tape less than 1/8 inch from seam allowance 3

8. Seam tape lifting off fabric 3

9. Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric on the laminated) in excess of 3/16 inch width or 1/2 inch in length at any location along a taped seam

TABLE VI - CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS

DEFECT POINT

VALUE

a. Open seam more than 1/8 up to 1/4 inch

b. More than 1/4

NOTE: One or more broken or two or more continuous skipped or run-off stitches constitutes an open seam. On double stitched seams, a seam is considered open when one or both sides of the seam are open. Raw edge not securely caught in stitching shall be classified as an open seam.

d. Seam and stitch type

1. Not specified seam or stitch type 3

2. Any line of stitching omitted or insecure 2

3. Any line of stitching not beginning or ending where specified

(unless otherwise classified herein)

e. Stitch tension

1. Loose tension resulting in a loose seam 3

2. Loosely exposed loops of lower or top thread on edge, top, or raised stitching.

f. Runoff, skipped, or broken stitch:

1. Edge, top or raised stitching (more than 1/4 inch) 1

g. Bartack, backtacked, tack, or tacking(except buttonhole

1. Missing, insecure, misplaced, not serving intended purpose, or not specified length or type. 1/

2..Loose stitch 1

3. Length not as specified by 1/16 inch or more 1

4. Other than direction specified 1

IX. BUTTONHOLE

a. Misplaced or not positioned as specified 3

b. Omitted, added, not specified type or not finished as specified 3

c. Gimp omitted or ends of gimp not pulled thru to underside of cut first square bar buttonhole

d. Bartack missing, loose or misplaced (not serving intended purpose)

e. Stitches per buttonhole or bartack less than minimum number specified by:

1. One to three stitches 1

3. Four or more stitches

DEFECT POINT

VALUE

XI. BUTTON LOOP

a. Omitted or insecure 1

b. Misplaced or not attached as specified 2

c. Length or width not as specified 1

XII SLEEVE TABS

a. Ends poorly shaped or ends not of uniform shape or size 1

b. Irregular in width by 3/16 inch or more 1

XIII. SLEEVE

a. Set improperly, sleeve hangs with break twist 3

b. Sleeve reversed ( right sleeve set on left armhole 3

c. Fullness misplaced or concentrated in one area 3

d. Tight at armholes (roll effect not present on front or back of sleeve

XIV. POCKETS AND FLAPS

a. More than maximum specified 2 Flap attached crookedly, i.e., distance between sides of pocket and underside of opened flap varies more than 1/4 inch

Pocket or flap poorly shaped 2 Flap not covering front or back edge of pocket by 3/16 or more 2

XV. HEAT SEALED SEAMS

a. Any seam tape not located as specified 2

b. Any seam tape not 1/8 inch overlap on each side sewn seam 3

c. Any seam tape not overlapped 3/4 inch minimum 3

d. Any seam tape not located as specified 2

e. Any required stitching not covered by seam tape 2

f. Any required stitching not covered by seam tape 2

g. Any needle punctures that have not been repaired using heat sealing tape

h. Any area of the laminate knit fabric bordering the seam tape that is melted exposing laminate film

XVI. REPAIRS

a. Any heat sealing repairs extending beyond 5 inches in length 3

b. More than five repairs of any one item 1/

XVII. SEAM TAPE ADHESION

a. Seam tape lifting off fabric within 3/4 inch of seam 1/ 3

b. Visible scorching (heat degradation of fabric on the laminate) in excess of 3/16 inch width or ½ inch in length at any location along a taped seam

1/ This defect shall score as major when seriously affecting serviceability and as minor when affect serviceability but not seriously.

DEFECT POINT

VALUE

XIV. LENGTH OF FRONTS

b. Uneven by 1/4 inch or more at neck when fastened 2

XV. BARTACKS

a. Bartack omitted 3

b. Any bartack not in specified location, insecure, or not serving intended purpose:

More than two 2 Two or less 2

c. Any loose stitching incomplete or broken 2

d. Length or width not specified 2

XVI. LABELS/TAG

a. Missing, incorrect, or illegible:

1. Size. Instruction or combination label 3

2. Identification label 1

b. Not attached as specified or location incorrect 1

c. Stitching through printing 1

d. Misplaced by more than ½ inch from location specified 1

e. Causes damage to the parka 3

f. Bar-code omitted not or not readable by scanner 2

g. Not visible on folded, packaged item 2

3.10.1 End item examination. The parka shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Tables III, IV and V. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of Parkas.

The inspection and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

3.10.2 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table I provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

1. First article inspection (see 4.2)

2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANZI/ASQC Z1.4, as defined by contract, except where otherwise indicated.

4.4 Component and end item inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and end items shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this document or applicable procurement documents. The government reserves the right to inspect all components and end items to determine conformance to requirements.

4.4.1 Methods of testing

4.4.1.1 Hydrostatic resistance test. The hydrostatic resistance of laundering cycles shall be tested in accordance with Method 5516 of ASTM-D-751, except for the following:

The test specimen need not be conditioned and does not need to be tested in a conditioned environment (ambient conditions may be used). The test may be performed on any device, which tests the same specimen area at the equivalent pressure. The hydrostatic head shall be 50 centimeters pressure (of 0.8 psi) for 3 minutes. The parka shall be tested at four different locations as follows: one on hood seam, one on juncture of hood and neck seam, and one on straight torso seam. The water shall contact the outside of the garment. The sealed seam shall be centered in the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area of the testing machine. Evidence of leakage in one or more seam locations shall be considered a test failure. Leakage is defined as the appearance of one droplet of water anywhere in the 4-1/2 inch diameter test area. In cases of dispute the apparatus described in Method 5516 of ASTM-D-751 shall be used.

4.4.1.2 Parka laundering test. Place two (2) parkas, (one parka may be ballast) approximately 4 pounds total load, in an automatic washing machine set on permanent press cycle, high water level and warm (100 + 10, - OF) wash temperature. The slide and hook/loop fasteners of each parka shall be closed with the right side of each parka out during the wash and drying cycles. Place 28 grams of detergent conforming to type II of P-D-245 into the washer. The duration of each laundering cycle shall be 30 to 35 minutes. After laundering, place parkas in an automatic tumble dryer set on permanent press cycle, high heat setting (150-160° F) and run for approximately 30 minutes, or until dry. Conduct twenty laundering and drying cycles. After the twentieth laundering and drying cycle, test and evaluate the parkas for conformance to the required characteristics in 4.4.1.2.1 The laundering equipment (washer and dryer) shall be in accordance with AATCC test method 135.

4.4.1.2.1 Appearance after laundering

a. Tape ends and integrity test. After twenty laundering cycles, the test parka shall be examined for any sign of tape end lifting, tape curling, bubbling, separation along tape edges or across the tape width, or tape top knit shrinkage more than 1/8 inch exposing the tape membrane or middle layer. The occurrence of any of these defects shall be considered a test failure.

b. Physical surface appearance changes of the laminated fabric. After 20 laundering cycles, the woven side of the test parka shall be visually examined on all visible pattern parts of the parka for any evidence of physical surface appearance changes as compared to the unlaundered sample (see 3.6.3). Any physical surface appearance change (such as puckering, bubbling, etc.) shall be considered a test failure.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The parka is for wear by authorized personnel of the United States Coast Guard.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents should specify the following:

a. Title, number and date of this document.

b. Types, classes and sizes required (see 1.2).

c. Issue of DODISS to be cited in the solicitation and, if required, the specific issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

d. When first article sample is required (see 3.1, 4.2 and 6.3).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 First article. When a first article is required, it will be inspected and approved under the appropriate provisions of FAR 52.2094. The first article should be a preproduction sample. The contracting officer should specify the appropriate type of first article and the number of units to be furnished. The contracting officer should include specific instructions in all acquisitions documents regarding arrangements for selection, inspection, and approval of the first article.

6.4 Sources.

6.4.1 Slide Fasteners. Conforming to the requirements of this document may be obtained from YKK (USA) Inc., c/o Diversified Marketing Group, 109 Forrest Avenue, Narberth, PA 19072, (610) 667-5589.

6.4.2 Cord Locks. Conforming to the requirements of this document may be obtained from ITW Nexus USA, 194 E. Algonquin Road, Des Plaines, IL 60016, (603) 595-1888.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Parka Foul Weather Utility

6.6 Figures. The figures are furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the specification description shall control.

MILITARY INTERESTS:

Custodians: Preparing activity:

USCG - CDTO USCG - CDTO

Review activities:

Coast Guard - CG

FIGURE 1

USCG Foul Weather Parka – Front

FIGURE 2

USCG Foul Weather Parka – Back