21-R-1878 MCWBL DRAWERS TECH PACK 2021E (Attachment 003).pdf

M67854-21-R-1878 Attachment 003

MCWBL DRAWERS TECH PACK 2021E

Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer

Controlled By: PfM GCES, PM ICE CUI Category(ies): CUI//PROCURE//FEDCON Distribution/Dissemination Control: FEDCON POC: Eric.G.Daniels@usmc.mil

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Scope

Design

Toxicity

Toxicity documents

The drawers shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged direct skin contact. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used. When specified in the contract, the contractor shall furnish information, which certifies that the finished product is composed of materials, which have been safely used commercially or provide sufficient toxicity data to show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact.

As specified in the contract, all finishes/chemicals used to process the garment shall be identified and accompanied by the appropriate Safety Data Sheet (SDS) information.

This specification covers the requirements for no melt no drip mesh base layer drawers. The drawers will be one type and in the following sizes; X-Small, Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large and XXX-Large, as specified in the contract. The color of the drawers will be Coyote 498.

The drawers shall be constructed with an fully open net-like mesh knit material and have jersey knit reinforced knee patches, jersey knit inner thigh gussets, a tapered two ply functional fly, an elastic waistband with an integrated drawstring cord, and rib knit ankle cuffs.

DESCRIPTION

COLOR

coyote 498 coyote 498 coyote 498

COLOR WIDTH

coyote 498 1 1/4"

NEEDLE

THREAD (TEX)

BOBBIN THREAD

(TEX)

Tex 27 Tex 27

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Waistband WAISTBAND PROPERTIES

MATERIAL PROPERTIES TAB

TYPE/DESCRIPTION LOCATION USED

PERFORMANCE REQUIRMENTS & VERIFICATION

Waistband (Elastic webbing with Integrated Draw-Cord)

VERIFICATION

Mesh material Basic Material Leg Panels

Base Size M

Field

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification

Gender

MATERIAL AND COMPONENTS

MATERIAL

Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

Unisex

The materials and components shall conform to the requirements specified below when tested as listed under Performance Requirements and Verification below.

THREAD

Thread- Aramid, type I; A-A-55127

COMPONENTS

TYPE/DESCRIPTION LOCATION USED

PERFORMANCE REQUIREMENTS /

DETAILS

INSPECTION TAB AND DEFECTS TAB

INSPECTION TAB AND DEFECTS TAB

COLORCOMPONENT AREA

DETAILS

VERIFICATION

TYPE/SPECIFICATION/REQUIREMENTS

Jersey knit material Front/ Back Rise Panel /Gusset/

Reinforcement Knee Patch MATERIAL PROPERTIES TAB

Rib Knit material Cuffs MATERIAL PROPERTIES TAB coyote 498All stitch & seaming

LABELS

MATERIAL AND COMPONENTS

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M

Field

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification

Gender Unisex

MATERIAL AND COMPONENTS

Black text

COLOR DETAILS REQUIRMENTS

Attached via hangtag fastener white tag, black text, clear attachment tagBarcode label Type VI, class 17 MIL-DTL-32075 LABELS TAB

VERIFICATION

INSPECTIONS TAB AND DEFECTS

TAB

INSPECTION TAB AND DEFECTS TABCombination size, identification, and Instruction label LABELS TABWaistband

COMPONENT AREA

Cuffs

1X1 Rib knit

N/A

N/A Report

4.5-5.5 oz/yd2

N/A

N/A

5%

90 minutes

5% 10%

20% 20%

5% 5%

No Melt/No Drip

4.0

4.0

4.0

4.0

Visual Shade matching

Good match to Standard Sample Good match to Standard Sample

5%

N/A

Moisture Regain (Commercial) (maximum) ASTM D1909 AND INTERNAL TEST PROCEDURES TAB 5%

AATCC EP 9, option A

Hole (void) size (relaxed) (minimum) 1.5875 mm

HOLE SIZE DETERMINATION on INTERNAL TEST

PROECDURES TAB

Good match to Standard Sample

4.0

ASTM D3776/D3776M (method C)

ASTM 1777

N/A

N/A

5%

20%

CHARACTERSTIC

4.0

4.0

TEST METHOD

REQUIRMENT

20%

5% 5%

4.0

4.0

No Melt/No Drip

90 minutes

Basic material

Open Hole, net like warp knit mesh construction Single Jersey knit

N/A

Report

4.5-5.5 oz/yd2

4.0

4.0AATCC TM8

10%

4.0

20% 25%

No Melt/No Drip

ASTM D2594 (Loose Fit)

ASTM D2594 (Loose Fit)

Colorfastness

Vertical flame (initial and after 5 laundering) Wales and courses

AATCC TM16.3, option 2 (85 kJ)

AATCC TM8

ASTM D6413/D6413M

Fabric stretch (minimum)

Wales

AATCC TM61, option 2a

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Base Layer Cold Weather Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001 Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Front/ Back Rise Panel/ Reinforcement Knee Patch & Gussets

5% 5%

Visual 1/

AATCC TM20A 1

USMC

MATERIAL AND COMPONENTS REQUIREMENTS

Base Size M Gender Unisex

DRY TIME PROCEDURE on INTERNAL TEST PROECDURES TAB 90 minutes

5%

30- 55 holes per square inch

Report

3.0 - 6.0

0.02

Daylight D75 (7500±200K)

Courses

Pilling (minimum)

Construction

Holes (voids) per square inch (relaxed)

Fiber Content

Weight (oz/yd2)

Thickness (inches) (minimum)

Bursting Strength lbs. (minimum)

Crocking

Wet

Dry

Light

Melt/Drip

AATCC TM135, (1), III, (A), i

AATCC TM135, (1), III, (A), i

ASTM D3787

ASTM D2594 (Loose Fit) ASTM D2594 (Loose Fit)

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity

Courses

Fabric growth (maximum)

Wales

Dimensional Stability (3 cycles) maximum

Wales

Courses

Drying time at 95%(maximum)

Snag Test (courses and wales)

Visual 1/

Laundering (3 cycles)

ASTM D3512/D3512M

ASTM D3939

12%

LOCATION

MATERIAL PROPERTIES

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Base Layer Cold Weather Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity

MATERIAL PROPERTIES

Good match to Standard Sample Good match to Standard SampleAATCC EP 9, option A Good match to Standard Sample Incandescent (2856±200K)

Picks per inch (minimum)

Warp ends (minimum)

Load to produce 50% elongation

0.8 to 4.5 pounds

20%Drift (maximum)

Elastic ends (minimum) 16

Waistband elastic webbing samples shall be samples from garments or constructed to duplicate the configuration on the finished garment. Tensile properties shall be evaluated by conducting tensile tests utilizing equipment conforming to ASTM D76/D76M. Samples shall be conditioned conforming to ASTM D1776/D1776M. Specimens for the test shall be full-width at least 6 inches long, and shall be marked with a 2-inch gage length so located that when the specimen is inserted in the jaws of a suitable testing machine, having jaws wider than the webbing, the gage length is centrally located between the jaws. The initial distance between the jaws of the machine shall be 3 inches. The jaws shall separate at a rate of 12 inches per minute under no load. The load required to produce 50-percent elongation of the 2-inch gage length shall be noted

Visual count

Visual count

Visual count

MIL-W-5664

Width 1¼±¹⁄16 inch

Weight (minimum) 0.50-.60 ounces per linear yard

ASTM D3774

ASTM D3776/D3776M

WAISTBAND

The elastic webbing with the integrated draw-cord for the drawer waistband shall be a knit constructed from 1/150 (+/-5 Denier) Semi Dull (SD) textured polyester and a 34 gauge textruded latex elastic element.

The color of the webbing with integrated draw-cord shall be Coyote 498. The braid for the tubular draw-cord shall be a knit constructed from 1/150 SD textured polyester in a continuous solid construction. The braid shall be embedded in the elastic webbing for the waistband and the draw-cord shall be offset from the center. The elastic webbing with a functional integrated draw-cord shall conform to the physical requirements as specified below.

CHARACTERISTC REQUIRMENT

Fiber Content 30-40% Elastic

60-70% Polyester or Nylon

TEST METHOD

AATCC TM20A or ASTM D276

Base Size M Gender Unisex Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

WAISTBAND PROPERTIES

Base Size M Gender Unisex Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

WAISTBAND PROPERTIES

AATCC TM61, option 2a

AATCC TM8

AATCC TM16.3, option 3 (85 kJ)

Visual/micrometer

Colorfastness

Fiber identification Drawcord Semi-dull textured polyester

Draw Cord-Diameter ¼ (±¹⁄32) inch

AATCC TM20A or ASTM D276

Equal to the basic material

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

DRY TIME PROCEDURES

4.4.1.3.1 Apparatus and materials. The following apparatus and materials shall be used:

a. Wringer (motor driven) (see 4.4.1.3.4.a).

b. Laboratory balance, accurate to 0.01 gram.

c. White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper, 25 x 25 centimeters (see 4.4.1.3.4.b).

d. Water, distilled.

e. 250-milliliter glass beaker.

4.4.1.3.2 Test specimens. The fabric samples and blotting paper should be conditioned at 65±2 percent RH and 70±2 °F for a minimum of 4 hours. Three (3) 2- by 2-inch test specimens shall be tested per sample.

4.4.1.3.3 Drying time test procedure. The following drying time test procedure shall be followed:

a. Run test in standard conditions: 65±2 percent RH and 70±2 °F.

b. Weigh the conditioned specimen using a laboratory balance accurate to 0.01 gram.

c. Place 100 milliliters of distilled water into a 250-milliliter glass beaker.

d. Submerge the specimen in the beaker of water for 30 minutes. Make certain that the specimen is completely submerged to insure complete wetting.

e. Remove the specimen and sandwich it between two pieces of unused blotting paper. Pass the sandwich through the wringer with a dead weight load of 27.7±0.5 kilograms.

f. Immediately place specimen on the balance with top door of the balance open, side doors closed and record wet weight either to the nearest 0.01 or 0.1 gram. (Degree of dryness shall be determined by the user.) Manually monitor weight at set intervals until dry or use an automated balance with capability to weigh specimen until dry (see 4.4.1.3.4.c). Record time to dry.

g. Repeat for remaining specimens. Average the 3 specimens.

4.4.1.3.4 Drying time test notes.

a. Wringer (motor driven): see AATCC TM70, footnote 11.2.

b. Blotting paper: see AATCC TM70, footnote 11.3.

c. Balance: Suitable Automation Software, PerkinElmer Inc., http://www.perkinelmer.com/.

Base Size M Gender Unisex

MOISTURE REGAIN CALCULATION

Use the commercial moisture regain values (CMR) from ASTM D 1909 of the fibers used in the yarn blend and calculate using the following formula:

Total Commercial Moisture Regain = CMR Fiber 1 * Fiber 1 blend percentage + CMR Fiber 2 * Fiber 2 blend percentage + CMR Fiber 3 * Fiber 3 blend percentage…..

Example 78/22 Modacrylic/rayon fabric 0.4% * 78% modacrylic + 11% * 22% rayon = 2.7% commercial moisture regain Where 0.4% is the commercial moisture regain for modacrylic fiber (class 1) and 11% is the commercial moisture regain for rayon fiber

HOLE SIZE DETERMINATION

The hole size is determined by measuring the hole void in both the course and wale directions and taking the average of the course and wale void dimensions; a minimum of ten voids in each direction shall be measured. The fabric should be laid flat and under no tension when measuring hole void.

INTERNAL TEST PROCEDURES

Each pair of drawers shall be individually barcoded with a label/tag in accordance with type VI, class 17 of MIL-DTL-32075 when tested as specified in MATERIAL AND COMPONENTS TAB. The label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when folded or packaged as specified in the contract and shall cause no damage to the item.

See MIL-DTL-32075

LABELS

Combination size, identification label

Each pair of drawers shall have a heat transfer combination size, identification label manufactured by ITW Graphics, Bell Label, or equal.

The combination size, identification label shall be adhered to the inside to the left (as worn) of the seat seam ¾ ± ¼ inches below the elastic waistband seam join. The heat transfer label shall contain the following information and be in the following configuration stated in Figure

1:

UNITED STATES MARINE CORPS

DRAWERS BASE LAYER

CONTRACT NO:

NSN:

FIBER CONTENT:

CONTRACTOR’S NAME:

SIZE:

Instruction label

Physical requirements (1) MIL-DTL-32075, type VI, class 2 and the exceptions below: Dimensions: 11/4 inch wide by 2 inch long (excluding seam allowance).

Background color: white or natural Inscription (1) In accordance with figure 2

Location (1) set into wearer's left Side seam at waistband seam join, with the inscription facing the wearer.

Machine wash in lukewarm water (105 °F) Tumble dry low or line dry

Do Not Use Fabric Softeners

DO NOT BLEACH, DRY CLEAN, OR IRON

Barcode label/tag

Label Figure Detail

Base Size M Gender Unisex Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

LABELS

CUT PARTS

PATTERN LIST

PIECE PARTMATERIAL PATTERN NAME

THIGH GUSSET

DRAWER_KNEE_PATCH

DRAWER_FLY

DRAWER_THIGH_GUSSET

A. Mesh basic material DRAWER_LEG LEG

KNEE PATCH

FLY

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

Standard patterns, providing a seam allowance of ⅜ inch for all seams except where otherwise specified, will be furnished by the Government. The list of pattern parts and computer nomenclature is provided to ensure that the pattern set provided is complete. The Government patterns shall not be altered in any way, and shall only be used for cutting the contractor’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, except that additional notching, if needed to facilitate manufacture is permitted on the contractor’s working pattern. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate the manufacturer’s processes and the use of automated equipment provided the modifications do not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in this document or governed by the Government pattern.

B. Jersey basic material

CUFFC. Rib Knit basic material DRAWER_CUFF

Component parts shall be cut from the materials specified and in accordance with the pattern parts listed. Patterns shall be used to achieve the desired fit on the PHOTOS tab.

PATTERN LIST

CODE Tol. XS S M L XL A ±1/2 10 12 14 16 18 B ±1/2 27-1/8 27-5/8 28-1/8 28-5/8 29-1/8 C ±1/2 37-1/8 38-1/8 39-1/8 40-1/8 41-1/8 D ±1/2 11-1/2 12 12-1/2 13 13-1/2 E ±1/2 14-5/8 15-1/8 15-5/8 16-1/8 16-5/8 F ±1/4 9 9 9 1/8 9 1/4 9 3/8 G ±1/4 4 1/2 4 3/4 5 5 1/4 5 1/2 H ±1/4 3 1/8 3 1/8 3 1/8 3 1/8 3 1/8

The finished drawers shall conform to the measurements specified in the Table of Finished Dimensions table above as defined in the Method of Measure (MOM) tab.

Back Rise Knee Patch Height

1/2 Cuff Width 1/2 Cuff Height

POINT OF MEASURE

1/2 Waist

Inseam Outseam Front Rise

XS-XL

M

MC-PD-21-D001

Field

USMC

Unisex

Table of Finished Dimensions

Spec Nomenclature Pattern Date

Size Range Base Size

Spec Number Classification

Preparing Activity Gender

Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) 17-Mar-21

FINISHED DIMENSIONS

CODE Tol. XS S M L XL A ±1/2 2 2 X 2 2 B ±1/2 1/2 1/2 X 1/2 1/2 C ±1/2 1 1 X 1 1 D ±1/2 1/2 1/2 X 1/2 1/2 E ±1/2 1/2 1/2 X 1/2 1/2 F ±1/4 0 1/8 X 1/8 1/8 G ±1/4 1/4 1/4 X 1/4 1/4 H ±1/4 0 0 X 0 0

GRADE RULES

POINT OF MEASURE

1/2 Waist Inseam

Outseam Front rise Back rise

Knee patch height 1/2 Cuff width 1/2 Cuff height

Base Size M Gender Unisex Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

GRADE RULES

CODE

A

B

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

1/2 Waist

METHOD OF MEASURE

All measurements are taken with garments laid on a flat, clean surface with all folds smooth, being careful not to stretch or distort the garment. All measurements are taken from the front of the garment unless otherwise noted. Inseam lengths shall not be uneven more than ½ inch.

Inseam

POINT OF MEASURE METHOD FIGURE

With top edges of waist aligned and elastic relaxed, measure along center of waistband from folded edge to folded edge.

Waist NOT aligned in figure

From fly joining seam, measure along natural fold of the leg on the inner edge to the bottom of the cuff.

METHOD OF MEASURE

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

METHOD OF MEASURE

C

D

E

F

From the top edge of the elastic waist, measure along natural fold of the leg on the outer edge to the bottom of the cuff.

Measure straight from top seam to bottom seam of the knee patch along the inseam edge.

Outseam

Front rise

Back rise

Knee patch height

From the top edge of elastic waist at center front, measure straight to the fly folded edge.

From the top edge of elastic waist at center back, measure straight to the fly folded edge.

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

METHOD OF MEASURE

G

H

1/2 Cuff width

1/2 Cuff height

In a straight line, measure along bottom of cuff from folded edge to folded edge.

In a straight line, measure along cuff side edge from leg joining seam to the bottom of the cuff.

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Construction

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

The following specifics will provide garments with uniform appearance, comfort, and durability for use during field duties, combat, and operations other than war. End item construction and appearance shall conform to the figures provided and the finished dimensions cited on the TOFM tab to maintain end item configuration.

The drawers shall be made in accordance with the Stitches and Seams Tab. The contractor is not required to follow a specific sequence of operations provided the finished drawers meet the finished form, fit, and function. Requirements are those produced by following the STITCHES AND SEAMS tab requirements. Drawings (noted above) are for reference. When inconsistencies exist between the drawings and the written language, the written language supersedes text embedded within drawings.

CONSTRUCTION

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

CONSTRUCTION

The finished drawers shall be free from loose thread, foreign matter, and irregular defects that can adversely affect usage or durability. The finished drawers shall conform to the quality of product established by this document, be uniform, and be free from defects specified in the DEFECTS tab and those defects that adversely affect form, fit, or function. Defects shall not exceed the established Acceptable Quality Levels (AQLs) specified in contract and shall not adversely affect the serviceability, appearance, and uniformity of the product.

Workmanship

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC Base Size M Gender Unisex

Stitch Type Seam Type 605 EFa-2 607 FSa-1 304 FSe-1 403 LSa-2 605 FSa-1 607 FSa-1

Bartack N/A

Bartack N/A

Bartack N/A

Length (Inches) Qty per Garment 5/8 2 5/8 1

5/8 1

Seams and stitching

The seams and stitching types used shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and conform to ASTM D6193 and the requirements listed below in the Seam and Stitch table. A seam allowance of ⅜-inch gauge is provided for all seaming. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight, loose, or unbalanced stitching. Material edges shall not ravel. The stitches per inch shall be 10-14 for all seams except stitch type 607 which shall be 12-14 stitches per inch

Ends of seams and rows of stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be securely backstitched not less than ¼ inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than ½ inch.

Tacking & Backstitching

Seaming Area and Operations Hem edges of fly opening

Set fly front of drawers

SEAMS AND STITCH TABLE

BARTACKS

Overlap and secure waistband webbing at center back Set waistband webbing

Fold cuff in half and join to leg bottom Close inseams with cuffs and seat seam

Turn under seam tails at cuff ends and secure with 5/8-inch bartack

Turn under seam tail at center back waist and secure with 5/8-inch bartack and center a second 5/8-inch bartack at the junction of the waist elastic and seat seam

Bottom of cuff at inseam Top of center back elastic waistband

Bottom of elastic waistband- centered over waistband and seat seams

Place combination instruction/ID label to inside left of center back 3/4 to 1 inch below the waistband approximately 1 inch to the left of the seat seam

Drawers Bartacks

SEAMS & STITCHES

Size range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

ACCEPTANCE CRITERIA

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Samples shall be subjected to First Article inspection and Conformance inspections for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, dimensional and testing requirements as defined throughout the technical package. First article and conformance inspection shall consist of the examinations and tests specified on INSPECTION METHODS and MATERIALS AND COMPONENTS tabs.

INSPECTIONS

Conformance

First Article The presence of defects exceeding AQLs specified in the contract or failure of any testing shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

The presence of excessive defects as specified or failure of any testing of one or more sample units as specified shall be cause for rejection of the lot.

Conformance

SAMPLING

First article samples shall be provided. The sample size shall be as specified in the contract. The sample unit shall be one drawer and the lot size shall be expressed in units of drawers.

End item sampling shall be performed conforming to ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The sample shall be one finished pair of drawers and the lot size shall be expressed in units of drawers. Unless otherwise specified in subsidiary specifications, referenced documents, or procurement documents material and component sampling shall be (2) sample units for lots 800 yards of less,

(3) sample units for lots 801 yards to 22,000 yards and (4) sample units for lots over 22,000 yards. For material testing, the sample unit shall be 5 continuous yards full width of the finished cloth for all physical and chemical tests.

First Article

QUALITY

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender Unisex

The drawers shall be examined for defects in color, design, material, construction, workmanship, and marking, and the defects shall be classified in accordance with the list of defects specified on the DEFECTS tab. The inspection conditions and the AQLs shall be as specified in the contract.

The drawers shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in TOFM tab as defined in MOM tab. Any measurement deviating from dimensions and tolerances specified shall be scored as a measurement defect. The inspection conditions and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract

DIMENSIONAL EXAMINATION

TESTING

Materials and components shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the requirements listed on the MATERIAL AND COMPONENTS TAB and those referenced tabs, specifications and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, or modified in this specification or applicable procurement documents All requirements are applicable to the sample unit.

IN-PROCESS EXAMINATION

In process examination shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details which cannot be examined in the finished product, are in accordance with the requirements specified. Materials and components which contain defects and damages, as defined in DEFECTS, shall be removed from production. Any in-process nonconformance remaining in the finished drawers shall be classified as a defect in accordance with the DEFECT tab.

VISUAL EXAMIATION

INSPECTION METHOD

Minor

1 x

1 x

2 x

1 x

2 x

3 x

4 x

5 x

6 x

8 x 9 x

10 x Run offs more than ½ inch but not more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam

Loose or tight stitch tension; broken or missing thread or stitch. Incorrect gauge used to stitch type

Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked

Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch

Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 in inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch x

Shade variation within a part or between parts. Thread color not as specified.

Dye streak, color not as specified.

Seams puckered, distorted, pleated, wavy, twisted; edge or raised stitching sewn too close to edge, resulting in damage to cloth.

Seams irregular or open seam, raw edge affecting appearance or serviceability.

Seam, seam allowance, or stitch type not as specified., seam allowances under specification

Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole.

Component part omitted, distorted, full, tight, or twisted; any part of drawers caught in any unrelated stitching, the edge of any component part required to be forced out having folds of more than ⅛ inch

DEFECT

NOS.PART Major x x

Material components and assembly

CLASSIFICATION

Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, drill hole, run, needle chew, visible mend, abrasion damaging the fabric, thin place, misweave or drop stitch affecting appearance or serviceability.

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

Unisex

Shade

Seams and seaming

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender

DEFECT LIST- DRAWERS

Material

Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn x

DEFECTS

Unisex

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender

DEFECTS

1 x

1 x

2 x

3 x

2 x

3 x

1 x

3 x

5 x

6 x

2 x

3 x

4 x

1 x

Cleanliness

7 or more thread ends on the interior of the garment measuring over 1/2"

Bartacks missing, insecure, misplaced, not specified size, not serving intended purpose stitches loose or broken.

Spot, stain, excessive thread ends not trimmed or removed, Thread ends not trimmed throughout exterior of garment

Bartacks

Cutting and Sewing

Raw edges, open seams

Distorted parts or poor workmanship

Any part of garment caught in unrelated operation or stitching

Draw-cord

Any draw-cord caught in tunnel or stitching restricting use of draw-cord.

Integrated drawcord not functional or missing

Stitching varying more than 1/8 inch

Waistband fullness not evenly distributed

Any draw-cord insufficient in length for function.

Barcode not visible on folded, packaged item.

Barcode attachment causes damage to the item.

Any draw-cord omitted or not integrated into the waistband. x

Any end not heat seared, knotted, or sealed.

Packaging

Any pair of drawers not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order.

Odor x x x x

Labels

Label omitted, incorrect type, size or configuration, illegible, inaccurate, improperly attached as specified or peeling. x

Barcodes omitted, not readable by scanner; human readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible.

Unisex

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Base Size M Gender

DEFECTS

2 x

Packaging

Any additional items included within the purchase order not in part of solicitation

Design POC

PHOTOS

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Size Range XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

PHOTOS

Dress Form: Fabulous Fit (pro series) Men's, size 40

NOTES/FIT COMMENTS

Base Size M Gender Unisex

Intended Use The drawers are part of a base layer set intended for use with the cold weather layering clothing system worn by personnel of the USMC.

Size angle XS-XL Preparing Activity USMC

Pattern Date 17-Mar-21 Classification Field

Spec Nomenclature Drawers, Mesh Cold Weather Base Layer (MCWBL) Spec Number MC-PD-21-D001

NOTES

Drawer waistband should sit at omphalion, approximately 1.5" below dress form waist tape (as pictured).

Rib knit cuff should sit approximately above the ankle bone without restriction.

Drawer should fit close to the body offering adequate wearing and functional ease without appearing baggy or loose.