Carport Assembly Instructions.pdf

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR

MOHAVE STYLE CARPORT

Mohave Carport Gable Ends are optional

All illustrations in these instructions are examples of the style of structure you have purchased and are not to scale. Please check provided drawings, if applicable, for your specific structure layout.

ATTENTION

Read the following safety warnings and all instructions (including any extra instructions, if given) in their entirety, prior to installation.

If you are using a contractor or hired person(s) to install your structure, please insist that they read the instructions and watch our installation videos. On a regular basis, mistakes are made by “professionals” who do not avail themselves of our experience and knowledge of our products. Do not neglect to do this. Absolute Steel is not responsible for the liability and/or costs associated with faulty or improper installations.

Your structure may come with a truss assembly (check material lists and/or provided drawings).

We test fit truss parts before fabricating to make sure your specific assembly fits together correctly at your site.

Our steel structures are packaged tightly. If you think you are missing any parts, please make sure you have taken the bundle(s) apart completely to make sure. Sometimes, colored screws may arrive with the panels in the event that they are not stock colors and have to come directly from the panel company.

If you have purchased additional Engineering Plans, be sure to check them over in case any instructions or parts are different than these instructions. Be sure to build your structure as shown on your Engineering Plans. The Engineering Plans may also include additional assembly instructions if your structure is custom. Material for your structure is provided per your Engineering Plans. If any part of your structure and/or foundation is built differently than your Engineering Plans from field choice(s), then parts may not fit properly.

Our unique assembly process quickly transforms the individual pieces into a finished structure that will give you a lifetime of service. Great care has been taken to ensure complete satisfaction with your purchase. If you need technical assistance, please visit https://www.youtube.com/user/actfastfirst/videos for video assistance. Please keep in mind that these videos may not be the same kind of structure you have purchased. They show basic installation procedures. This given instruction booklet is more up to date for your specific structure. If there are any differences between the videos and this booklet, then follow this booklet first.

Most Brackets are provided with pre-drilled holes. If holes do not line up perfectly for screws to go into frame, then the self-drilling screws can go through bracket plate(s) and then into frame.

If you have any other questions or still think that you are missing any parts or a part may be incorrect, please contact Absolute Steel customer service at 1-877-833-3237 before proceeding.

https://www.youtube.com/user/actfastfirst/videos

SAFETY AND HAZARD INSTRUCTIONS:

WARNING:

Metal parts may get hot when exposed to high heat or direct sunlight. Avoid contact with skin and wear protective gloves and clothing to prevent the possibility of burns.

WARNING:

Avoid installation on windy days as wind may create hazards during the installation process. Wind may blow material or cause partially installed components to collapse prior to being secured or fully installed. The weight of the components or structure may cause serious injury if it should collapse.

WARNING:

Metal conducts electricity and electrical shock hazards exist since the structure is made of metal. During installation or storage, keep the structure and all components away from electrical sources. Make sure that your selected location is away from power lines, underground cables and any other source of electrical power. Serious injury or even death may occur if contact is made with electrical current.

WARNING:

If the structure is moved once it has been installed, be certain to inspect all components and conditions and follow each and every step of these instructions to make certain that the structure is securely anchored, properly installed and aligned. Failure to follow these steps could lead to collapse of the structure and may result in serious risk of injury or even death.

WARNING:

In the event that your structure is enclosed, be sure to provide proper and adequate ventilation and egress and ingress. Hazardous, poisonous or noxious substances should not be stored in the structures absent proper ventilation and the following all warnings and instructions of the manufacturer of the substance. Also, proper ingress and egress should be provided to prevent persons or children from becoming trapped inside the structure.

WARNING:

If metal panels are selected to cover all or a portion of your structure, be careful of the sharp edges which may cause cuts, lacerations or other injury. Wear protective work gloves and suitable clothing for protection and always take care when handling metal parts.

WARNING:

Always wear safety glasses or goggles when installing self-drilling screws.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

One must be able to comfortably reach the peak of the building 10’ to 20' high Depending on building width and height. An Extension ladder can also be helpful when installing sheet metal. Mechanical lifts will be needed for taller buildings. Some items may not be needed for your specific structure, depending on size, style and material.

Reach Forklifts are available at most rental yards. Most rental companies will rent by the half day or have a minimum rental.

Wait until the roof/wall assembly is complete and the base rails are anchored before you rent the lift and it will probably take less than one hour to stand all of the roof/wall frames.

BASIC BRACKET AND COMPONENT LIST

DO IT YOURSELF TIPS:

-Steel tubes may be split due to shipping lengths, or others reasons. Be sure to check material list for parts that are split into 2-pieces. If so, then connect together using (4) #12 tek screws per connection.

BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY AND SIDE WALL ALIGNMENT

Assemble the base rails and fasten them to the slab as shown in the instructions. On the four corners of the building, make a reference mark on the vertical pin where it joins the horizontal base at the end of the base rail assembly. Chalk a line on the vertical pins, running the length of the base rail between the reference marks. Place the roof/wall assemblies on the vertical base rail pins per the installation instructions; do not fasten yet. Using a crowbar, lift the roof wall assemblies up until they are lined up with the chalk line, then fasten the roof/wall assembly per the instructions. This is an important step if your concrete slab has irregularities in it (dips, low spots). Without this step, the top of the side wall will follow the irregularities in the concrete. With this step, irregularities are compensated for by the slip-fit connections.

SITE PREPARATION FOR CARPORTS:

FOUNDATION

The Absolute Steel Garage/Shop Building frame is designed to be placed on a level foundation. The foundation can be: prepared ground (leveled and re-compacted), a concrete footing, or a concrete mono-slab with built-in footing. It is important that you create one of these foundation types prior to installing your building.

Prior to starting your project, we recommend that you check with your local building official to find out what is acceptable for foundations and anchoring in your city and/or county.

Helpful hint: If you extend the building site about 3 or 4 feet on all sides, it will make it easier to position ladders for sheet metal installation.

If you choose to mount the building on an existing slab, the slab should be at least the width of the building and the length of the building plus 2”. Example: If you have a 20’ x 20’ carport, the slab should be at least 20’ 0” x 20’ 2”.

FOOTINGS ALONE (“Ribbon” or “Strip” Footing)

If you are using footings alone as your foundation (also known as ribbon or strip footings), they should be 12” wide by 12” deep, or 12” wide by 16” deep, depending on building code. Footings should be positioned so that the concrete anchors can be centered in the footing. The footing’s outside width and length would then be [building width +4”] by [building length +2”]. For example, the footing for a 10’ x 20’ building would be 10’ 4” wide by 20’ 2” long, outside dimensions. Footings should be level.

SLAB WITH FOOTING:

If you will be pouring a slab for your building, the slab should be 4” thick and have a perimeter footing. The footing should be built according to local building codes, with a 45˚ bevel between slab and footing.

Example:

For IBC-2012 (International Building Code) - 12” wide x 12” deep

The slab should be level, side to side and back to front. Two continuous runs of #4 rebar top and bottom are recommended in the footing. Check with your local building official for details and requirements in your city and/or county. Some counties require the footing to extend down 12” below the frost line. The concrete should be rated at 2500 to 3000 PSI.

The outside dimensions of the slab should be at least the width of the building by the length of the building plus 2”.

Example: if you have a 20’ x 20’ carport, the slab should be at least 20’ 0” x 20’ 2”.

For accuracy, build the roof/wall systems as shown. This will ensure all the frame systems are the same size. While the frames are in a stack, make reference marks for hat channel placement, if applicable. A reference chart is included in following pages.

HELPFUL HINT

For accuracy, build the roof/wall systems as shown. This will ensure all the frame systems are the same size. While the frames are in a stack, make reference marks for hat channel placement, if applicable. A reference chart is included in following pages.

For the base rails, line up the pins as shown. This step will ensure that the building is proportionate on each side.

Insert tubes do not have to be pushed in tight if not needed. Keep this in mind for all inserts for your structure.

BASE RAIL ASSEMBLY

Each structure is designed on either a 5’-on-center or a 4’-on-center frame assembly.

5’-on-center systems:

• The starter base rails have a net length of 10’ 2” and have 3 vertical pins.

• The base extenders measure 10’ in length and have 2 vertical pins.

• The base extensions measure 5’ in length and have 1 vertical pin.

4’-on-center systems:

• The starter base rails have a net length of 8’ 2” and have 3 vertical pins.

• The base extenders measure 8’ in length and have 2 vertical pins.

• The base extensions measure 4’ in length and have 1 vertical pin.

Each structure will include 2 starter base rails and as many extenders as are needed to reach the desired structure length. To assemble the base rails, use the diagrams given and follow the instructions below:

1. Place the starter base rail/rails at the front corner/corners of the structure.

2. Add a base extender by inserting it into the previous base rail piece and fasten with four #12 Tek screws.

Screw placement will be approximately 1” (first 2 screws) and 3” (2 more screws) from the vertical pin).

(Note: Make certain that the assembly remains straight while you install the screws).

3. Repeat step 2 until the desired length is reached.

4. Repeat step 2 for base extensions, if required for your specific structure.

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for other side of structure, as applicable.

6. Snap a plastic endcap into the open end of each completed base rail.

TO OBTAIN AN ACCURATE WIDTH, ASSEMBLE ROOF/WALL FRAMES BEFORE YOU ANCHOR BASE

RAILS.

ANCHORING BASE RAILS

We recommend that you check with your local building official prior to starting your project, to find out what is acceptable for foundations and anchoring in your city and/or county.

There are three base rail anchoring methods:

1. To a concrete slab or footing with wedge anchor bolts and z-clips.

2. To the ground with MR-68 or MR-88 (“Manta Ray”) ground anchors.

3. To the ground with rebar anchors in concrete caissons.

NOTE: Method #1 is the recommended method for anchoring your structure.

METHOD #1: Anchoring structure to a concrete slab or concrete footings with 3/8”x3-3/4” wedge (expansion) anchor bolts and z-clip anchor bracket.

To make certain your base rail assembly remains straight and does not vibrate apart, fasten it together with at least two screws per joint, (top surface of the base rail). After making all the necessary measurements and the assembled base rails are squared and in position, refer to the diagram and proceed as follows;

1. Place a z-clip anchor bracket onto base rail, about 6” away from frame vertical insert tube; fasten using four #12 x 1” Tek screws-2 on top and 2 on the side. You can use the pre drilled holes if desired in the Z-Clips.

2. Place your foot on top of the base rail to hold it in place. Using a hammer drill with a 3/8” diameter x 4” long (or longer) concrete drill bit, insert the drill bit through the z-clip anchor bracket hole; drill a 2 5/8” deep hole into the concrete (measured from the top of the concrete).

3. Repeat step 2 for second anchor hole.

4. Assemble two wedge anchor bolts by placing a flat washer and hex nut onto the bolt so that about two threads are exposed above the hex nut.

5. Clean out both anchor holes and place a wedge anchor bolt into each hole Tap down with a hammer until the washer and nut are touching the top of the z-clip anchor bracket.

6. Using a wrench, tighten each anchor bolt nut until it is snug against the z-clip anchor bracket.

7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for each frame vertical insert tube on each base rail assembly. (Note: In structures without end walls, TWO z-clips are used at the ends.)

After your structure is fully assembled, check all anchor bolts and repeat step 6 to tighten each bolt as necessary.

ANCHORING BASE RAILS (Continued)

METHOD #2:

Anchoring to ground with MR-68 or MR-88 (Manta Ray) ground anchor.

To make certain that your base rail assembly remains straight and does not vibrate apart, fasten it together with at least two screws per joint, (top surface of the base rail). After making all the necessary measurements and the assembled base rails are squared and in position, refer to the diagram and proceed as follows;

1. Mark the location of the anchor holes onto the ground.

2. Move base rail assemblies to one side.

3. Thread 36” long anchor rod into anchor.

4. Insert drive rod/steel into anchor.

5. Place anchor into previously marked anchor hole location.

6. Drive anchor to proper depth, (about 2’ to 3’, leaving about 6” to 8” of threaded rod exposed above ground) and remove drive rod/steel. (A 1”-2” pilot hole may be required in very hard soils).

7. Replace the base rail assemblies into position over the threaded anchor rod.

8. Remeasure length, width and squareness of your structure and adjust accordingly.

9. Lock anchor into position and place flat washer and retaining nut onto threaded anchor rod and tighten.

10. Repeat Step-9 for all remaining anchor rods.

11. Z-Clips are placed about 4” away from vertical insert tube.

ANCHORING BASE RAILS (Continued)

METHOD #3: Anchoring to ground with re-bar anchors in concrete caissons.

To make certain your base rail assembly remains straight and does not vibrate apart, fasten it together with at least two screws per joint (top surface of the base rail). With all necessary measurements made and the assembled base rails squared and in position, refer to the diagram and proceed as follows:

1. Place a ground anchor beside the base rail, 6” from a vertical insert tube; use the insert tube as a guide to mark the ground at the location of the anchor hole.

2. Repeat step 1 at each frame vertical tube location.

3. Move base rail assemblies to one side; dig a hole at each marked location. You may want to rent a gas-powered post-hole digger with an 8” or 12” auger for this job.

For most areas, a hole either 8” in diameter and 30” deep, or 12” diameter x 21” deep, will be adequate.

4. Place the base rail assemblies back into position over the holes.

5. Re-measure length, width and squareness of your structure; adjust as needed.

6. Drop or drive a ground anchor at each anchor hole and fasten A-clip to base rail using four #12 x 1” Tek screws.

7. Prepare concrete mix and pour into each hole, up to ground level. (You may want to rent a cement mixer for this job.)

8. Before concrete sets, re-measure length, width and squareness of your structure and adjust accordingly.

9. Allow concrete to cure for at least 24 hours before installing the roof/wall frame assemblies.

These foundation sizes in this booklet are examples only. If you did not purchase Engineer Plans, then make sure to check with your local city/county codes for specifications on any foundations you may need.

ROOF / WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY

On the ground, assemble 1 peak, 2 rafters, 2 side posts and 2 height extensions. Before you fasten the joints with screws, take a measurement across the top and bottom of the assembly, as shown. This outside measurement is the outside size of your building (12’, 14', 18', 20’, 24’, or 30’). Try to keep the joint spacing on both sides of the assembly equal. It is very helpful to drive stakes into the ground at the width of the building and use them to set the dimension at the bottom of the assembly. You should set the bottom dimension before you adjust and set the top dimension. Both dimensions should be equal. Now fasten the joints with (6) #12 x 1” self-drilling screws, per connection, as shown below.

NOTE: You can use the first assembly as a template to assemble the remaining roof/wall frames. Adjust the slip joints between the rafter and eave connector as needed to obtain the desired width.

The actual eave height is on the eave side, directly lined up with the top of the roof decking.

TRUSS BRACING

Truss bracing may or may not be required for your size of structure; this will depend on two things:

structure size and the specific design load requirements for the area where the structure will be located.

Truss bracing is not always required on endwalls. If your structure is 30’ or wider, then truss bracing is required and provided.

Be sure to check your material list to see if you have truss bracing. If not, then skip this part and go to ‘INSTALLING

ROOF/WALL FRAMES TO BASE RAILS’.

It's easier to install the truss bracing to the roof/wall frame assembly while laying it down on the ground.

COLLAR-TIE ASSEMBLY:

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

The Collar-Tie Assembly is made up of three parts;

• (1) Center-Tie 2”x3”x132” with inserts (reduced) ends.

• (2) End-Ties 2”x3”xLength (length of End-Ties depends on the width of the structure).

Some HD structures (usually skinnier) might come with a:

• (1) Center-Tie 2”x2”x48” with inserts (reduced) ends.

• (2) End-Ties 2”x2”xLength (length of End-Ties depends on the width of the structure).

To assemble the Collar-Ties follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

1. Place one End-Tie on each end of the Center-Tie.

2. Fasten each End-Tie into place with (4) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws. (Note: Make certain that the assembly remains straight while you install the screws).

3. Place a Left Collar-Tie Bracket at Left end of Collar-Tie Assembly.

4. Fasten the Collar-Tie Bracket into place with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

5. Repeat Step-3 and Step-4 for Right side of Collar-Tie Assembly.

Note: If your structure came with a 2”x2” Collar-Tie and still have 2”x4” rafters, the pre-drilled holes for the Collar- Tie Brackets may not line up correctly. You can still drill the #12 Tek screws through the Collar-Tie Brackets without using the pre-drilled holes to hold the Collar-Tie and rafter together.

COLLAR-TIE TO ROOF/WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY:

To assemble Collar-Tie Assembly onto the Roof/Wall Frame follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

1. Center the Collar-Tie in the Roof/Wall Frame.

2. Fasten the Collar-Tie Bracket to the Roof/Wall Frame Rafters with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

Check Engineering Plans (if applicable) if more fasteners are needed for the collar tie bracket.

3. Repeat Step-1 and Step-2 to attach remaining Collar-Tie Assemblies to Roof/Wall Frame Assemblies.

TYPE-2 (POST-TRUSS) BRACE ASSEMBLY:

Assemble the Collar-Tie as shown. Next, locate the center of the collar-tie assembly and make a reference mark.

Remember as you are building the roof/wall frames in a stack, the end walls do not require a truss brace (unless the carport is 30’ or wider, then truss bracing is required also at both ends) so the first and last roof/wall frames in the stack will not have any type of truss bracing.

To assemble the Type-2 Post Truss Brace follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

1. Center the Vertical Post Brace at the peak component and collar-tie centers.

2. Fasten the top of the Vertical Post Brace to the peak using (2) 2” x 4” flat brackets with (6) #12x1” Self-

Drilling Tek Screws per bracket (Install front bracket while on ground and the back bracket while it is standing up). (Note: Make certain that the post brace remains centered and perpendicular to collar-tie while you fasten the screws).

3. Fasten the bottom of the Vertical Post Brace to the collar-tie using (1) 2” x 4” flat bracket with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

4. Repeat Step-1 through Step-3 for remaining Truss Assemblies.

TYPE-4 (TRI-TRUSS) BRACE ASSEMBLY:

Assemble the Collar-Tie as shown in the previous page. Next, locate the center of the collar-tie assembly and make a reference mark.

Remember as you are building the roof/wall frames in a stack, the end walls do not require a truss brace (unless the carport is 30’ or wider, then truss bracing is required also at both ends) so the first and last roof/wall frames in the stack will not have any type of truss bracing.

To assemble the Collar-Ties follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND EAR PROTECTION.

1. Center the Vertical Post Brace at the peak component and collar-tie centers.

2. Fasten the top of the Vertical Post Brace to the peak using (2) 2” x 4” flat brackets with (6) #12x1” Self-

Drilling Tek Screws per bracket (Install front bracket while on ground and the back bracket while it is standing up). (Note: Make certain that the post brace remains centered and perpendicular to collar-tie while you fasten the screws).

3. Fasten the bottom of the Vertical Post Brace to the collar-tie using (1) 4” x 6” flat bracket with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

4. Place a Tri-Brace on one side of Truss Assembly flush against collar-tie and vertical post brace 4” x 6” flat bracket, then lift opposite end flush against rafter.

5. Fasten the top of the Tri-Brace to rafter using (1) 2” x 4” flat bracket with (6) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

6. Fasten the bottom of the Tri-Brace flush against 4” x 6” flat bracket with (3) #12x1” Self-Drilling Tek Screws.

7. Repeat Step-1 through Step-6 for remaining Truss Assemblies.

INSTALLING ROOF / WALL FRAMES TO BASE RAILS

NOTE: It will take at least two people to assemble smaller units (10’ - 20’ wide). Wider units with a shorter eave height (7.5’ – 12.5’) may require more.

You’ll need to be able to comfortably reach the building’s peak - 10’ to 20', for most buildings. An extension ladder can also be helpful when installing sheet metal.

Units 30’-40’ wide, with higher eave heights, will require the use of a mechanical lift (reach forklift) due to their peak height.

Reach forklifts are available at most rental yards. Many yards will rent by the half day, or will have a minimum rental.

Wait until the roof/wall assembly is complete and the base rails are anchored before you rent the lift - it will probably take less than an hour to stand all the roof/wall frames.

Reach forklift - only needed for widest/highest units

SQUARING UP YOU FRAME:

Before installing the Front Enclosure, the Back Enclosure and any Roof Purlins, you may want to check the Roof/Wall Frame Assemblies to make sure that they are plumb, square and that all side post heights are equal.

To do this;

1. Using a level, check the front and back wall sections to make sure that they are plumb.

2. Using a level, check at the outside of the sidewall posts to make sure that they are plumb.

Attach two strings to the side posts from front to back at the eave connectors as shown in the drawing. This will allow you to see if any of the side posts are too high, too low or out of plumb. If adjustments must be made, do the following;

1. Remove the wall post to base rail joint screws and raise the low post as much as possible or hammer down the high post as much as possible.

2. Reinstall the wall post to base rail joint screws.

3. Repeat Step-1 and Step-2 for each wall post.

4. Repeat Step-1 through Step-3 for opposite side of building.

NOTE: This is not a critical step in the assembly process, but it may improve the appearance of your building. If the side posts are out of plane with other side posts more than a 1/4”, it may be visible on the finished building.

HAT CHANNEL INSTRUCTIONS:

Use the roof hat channels as guides. Position the hat channel on the outside of the base rails and 1” in from endwall as shown below. Mark the height extension layout to the hat channel. Use these marks to line up the frames when attaching to the roof. If more than one length of hat channel is required, be sure to butt-up both pieces centered on a height extension where they meet.

When you have the base rail layout marked on the hat channel (a felt pen or Sharpie works well), it is time to fasten the hat channel to the roof.

DO NOT FASTEN HAT CHANNEL AT SHOWN LOCATION. HAT CHANNEL ATTACHES ONTO ROOF.

The purpose of this step is to assure that the frames are standing perfectly even with each other.

HAT CHANNEL PLACEMENT

Attach hat channel with (1) #12 Tek screw on each flange (2 total) to framing.

_OTHER-SEE DRAWINGS

After the Roof/Wall Frame Assemblies have been raised into position and fastened in place, begin installing the hat channel (purlins).

1. Position the hat channel at the previously marked locations on the roof/wall frame assemblies and clamp them into place using a vise-grip type clamp.

2. Fasten the hat channel at every roof/wall frame with (2) #12 x 1” Tek screws.

INSTALLING ROOF PANELS

YOU WILL NEED AT LEAST TWO PEOPLE TO INSTALL ROOF SHEET METAL PANELS

One person should be on a tall step ladder, extension ladder, or scaffold inside the building, at the building peak.

The second person should be outside the building, at the eave. An additional person inside, on a step ladder close to the side wall, can be helpful in lifting panels onto the roof.

The roof metal is sized to allow about a 6" overhang at the eave - see illustration.

1. Measure 4" down from the center of the peak component and drive a 1" self-drilling screw into the front of the frame, at your mark and about half way in (don’t screw it in all the way). This screw will be an anchor for a mason line (or string) to be stretched from the front of the building to the back. The string will be used to locate the top of the roof sheet metal and keep it straight all down the length of the building.

2. Measure and drive another screw into the outside of the frame, at the back of the building.

3. Tie and stretch a mason line or nylon string between the two screws.

4. Place the first sheet of roof sheet metal at the front or back edge of the roof flush with the outside of the building frame. If your building has a length that is divisible by 3’ (i.e. 12’, 15’, 18’, etc.) then start the roof panels 1” in from the outside of the building frame. This way, the last roof panel will also end 1” in from the last frame on the opposite end. You should start on the same end of the building that you started the side metal. Place the Overlap edge of the panel flush with the end of the building frame. The person at the upper end of the panel must line the panel edge up with the edge of the building and set the upper edge of the panel even with the string. The person at the lower end of the panel should line the edge of the panel with the edge of the building frame and attach the edge of the panel to the lower roof purlin with a 1" painted, self-drilling screw with rubber washer. The person at the top should then attach the edge of the panel flush with the end of the building.

5. The person at the upper end of the panel must line up the panel edge with the edge of the building and set the upper edge of the panel even with the string.

When all roof panels have been installed, climb onto the roof. Step only on flat areas at frame sections or purlins.

Install the remaining screws. (Use one screw next to each major rib.) Do not step on major ribs. When overlapping all structure panels, overlap 1 rib only, unless otherwise noted.

INSTALLING ROOF PANELS (Continued)

6. The person at the lower end of the panel should line up the edge of the panel with the edge of the building frame and attach the edge of the panel to the lower roof purlin with a 1" painted self-drilling screw with rubber washer.

7. The person at the top should then attach the edge of the panel flush with the end of the building.

8. The person at the bottom now measures the distance from the center of the panel’s first rib to the center of the last rib. This distance should be 36”. Sometimes the panel may be curled or flattened slightly, making the distance slightly more or less than 36”. If this is the case, push on or flatten the panel until the distance 36” is reached, then hold the panel in that position while attaching it to the lower purlin.

9. Take a measurement from the underlap edge of the panel to the next roof/wall frame section; the top person now sets the panel’s top edge at the same distance and attaches it to the highest roof purlin.

▪ Steps 8 and 9 are important in ensuring the panels will end up square, all the way down the roof.

▪ When walking on the roof, step on the flat areas only - not on major ribs. Step on purlins or frame members only.

The screws should be a guide to purlin and frame locations.

10. Install remaining screws in top and bottom roof purlins. Use the same straight-edge or string method you used earlier to keep the screws straight and make sure each screw hits a purlin. At the eave (lower) end of the roof panel, place one screw on each side of every major rib.

11. We recommend that at this stage, you install one screw next to the underlap rib of the panel, at each purlin.

This will make the roof more secure when you have to walk on it and give you location points for installing the remaining screws later on, when the purlins are not visible. (A third person will save time and energy with this step.)

12. Place the overlap edge of the next roof panel over the underlap edge of the previous panel. Line up the panel with the string at the top and attach that edge at the top and bottom of the panel.

13. Take the same measurements as you did on the first panel, 36" between the center of the first and last rib.

Attach at the bottom, measure to the next frame section, set the top edge at the same dimension and attach the top of the panel.

14. Place one screw in each remaining roof purlin, at the edge of the panel.

15. Repeat this installation method down the length of the building.

▪ When you install the panels on the other side of the roof, you will have to work on the top edge of the panels by standing to one side, or from the roof on the other (already-paneled) side.

▪ When all roof panels have been installed, you must get up onto the roof and use the straight-edge or string method to install the remaining screws.

INSTALLING ROOF PANELS (Continued)

FIRST PANEL ROOF FRAME SECTION - REMAINING SCREWS

When all roof panels have been installed, climb onto the roof. Step only on flat areas next to frame sections or purlins. Install the remaining screws. (Use one screw next to each major rib.)

Do not step on major ribs.

INSTALLING GABLE TRIM:

NOTE: KEEP THE GABLE TRIM FLUSH AGAINST THE ROOF OF STRUCTURE.

Follow the instructions and use the diagram below as a guide;

1. Place one piece of Gable Trim into position with top end flush to peak center.

2. Fasten top of Gable Trim to roof panel with #12 x 1” Panel Screws placed 24” apart.

INSTALLING RIDGE CAP:

The Ridge Cap comes in 10’-6” lengths. The Ridge Cap should hang over by 1/2” at both ends of structure. When installing the ridge cap, overlap the pieces by 6” and trim final piece to fit at ridge end. Center a piece of Ridge Cap on building peak and make a mark at the lower edges at one end of the building. Fasten with 7/8" Painted, Stitching Screws through the edge flange and into the top of every major rib. Lap the next piece of Ridge Cap 6" over the first and so on down the building. The last piece should overhang the opposite end by 1/2” also.

Have a question or comment?

Need technical assistance?

Give us a call (toll free) at 877-833-3237.

We’ll be glad to help.

Thank you for choosing