Spec-11-PD 20018C-AF-SF PTG All Purp Shorts-Womens-FINAL.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD 20018C

13 December 2021

SUPERSEDING

11-PD 20018B

1 September 2021

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

ALL-PURPOSE SHORT, WOMEN’S: PHYSICAL TRAINING GEAR

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way

Wright-Patterson

AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

mailto:aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Physical Training Gear (PTG) All-Purpose Shorts. The All-Purpose Shorts are intended for wear by U.S. Air Force (USAF) and U.S. Space Force (USSF) female personnel.

1.2 Classification. The All-Purpose Shorts are to be of the following types and classes, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types. The types of the women’s All-Purpose Short are as follows:

Type I – Air Force Type II – Space Force

1.2.2 Classes. The classes of the women’s All-Purpose Short are as follows:

Class 1 – 100 percent polyester, Air Force Shade Blue 1673 Class 2 – 100 percent polyester, Space Force Shade Black 1681

1.3 Schedule of sizes. The All-Purpose Shorts are furnished in the following sizes (see 6.2):

Schedule of sizes

Size XX-Small X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XXXX-Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester- Covered A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide Interlocking)

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

11-PD 20008 Cloth, Interlock, All Purpose Short Shell, Polyester 11-PD 20009 Cloth, Double Knit Mesh, Short Side Panel, Polyester

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity).

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM143 Appearance of Apparel and Textile Products after Laundering AATCC TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manual are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(DoD Adopted) (Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at http://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The All-Purpose Shorts shall be a mid-length athletic style short, using a performance knit shell. The shorts shall have an elastic waist with draw cord, vented side panels, covered zipper pockets, reflective logo, and reflective striping (Type I only), (see Figures 1 through 3).

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 8 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the All-Purpose Shorts shall be 100 percent polyester, interlock knit with anti-microbial and moisture management properties and conform to 11-PD-20008, Class 1 for Air Force Shade Blue 1673, Class 2 for Space Force Shade Black 1681 as specified.

3.5.2 Side panel knit. The breathable mesh side panel knit of the All-Purpose Shorts shall be 100 percent polyester, durable treatment with anti-microbial and moisture management finish and conform to 11-PD-20009, Class 1 for Air Force Shade Blue 1673, Class 2 for Space Force Shade Black 1681 as specified.

http://www.astm.org/

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Pocketing. The basic material shall be used for the pocketing.

3.6.2 Waistband elastic and draw cord. The two (2) inch knitted elastic for the waistband shall have an inserted draw cord. The tunnel opening for the draw cord shall be on the inside of the waistband. The elongation of the elastic shall be 120 percent (±10 percent). The elastic shall have 28 ends of 1/150 semi dull polyester and 28 ends of 34 gauge rubber. The filler of the elastic shall have 8 ends of 1/150 semi dull polyester. The finished picks shall be 40 per inch.

The draw cord has 12 ends of 2/150 black polyester. The needle width shall be 31. The color shall be natural unbleached, or dyed black. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.3 Zipper. The zipper shall be a 6-1/2 inches non-separating zipper with an automatic lock slider, short, square tapered tab pull, No. 3 continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil and a bottom stop conforming to Type I, Style 4 of A-A-55634. The tape shall be 100 percent polyester or blends of nylon/cotton or polyester/cotton. The color of the coil, tape, and square tapered zipper pull shall be a good match to the basic material. The dyed tape shall show a colorfastness rating of 4.0 to laundering after five (5) launderings when evaluated using Table

VII.

3.6.4 Thread. The thread shall be polyester core, polyester covered, Tex 27, 2-ply for single needle operations as well as the needles of the overlock machines and Tex 24, 2-ply used for the bartacks, buttonhole, loopers for the overlock and coverstitch machines conforming to A-A-50199 Type II. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The thread shrinkage shall be less than 3 percent when tested using ASTM D204 in Table VII.

3.6.4.1 Color. The color of the thread shall be a good match to the basic material.

3.6.5 Reflective materials. The reflective heat transfer logos and trim(s) shall be produced using segmented heat transfer film made with glass beaded reflective material. The heat transfer shall be applied using supplier’s instructions and shall conform to specifications in

3.6.5.1 through 3.6.5.5.

3.6.5.1 Reflectivity. The photometric performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance with ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements prior to test exposure, and photometric measurements after the following test exposures: abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have a minimum initial level of reflectivity of 300 cd/lux/m2 and have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 after 50 launderings, with mild detergent in accordance with AATCC

TM135 Test Method (1), IV, (A)i specified in Table VII. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.5.2 Flaking and delamination after launderings. Reflective transfers shall show no signs of flaking, peeling or delaminating after 50 launderings, with mild detergent in accordance with AATCC TM135, (1), IV, (A) i, as specified in Table VII. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.5.3 Reflective front left logo (Type I). The front left lower leg of the short shall have a silver reflective logo conforming to the dimensions on Figure 4. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.5.4 Reflective front left logo (Type II). The front left lower leg of the short shall have a silver reflective logo conforming to the dimensions on Figure 4. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.5.5 Reflective leg stripes (Type I). The front right leg and both back left and right legs shall have a silver reflective segmented stripe conforming to the dimensions on Figure 5. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.6 Labels. Each All-Purpose Shorts shall have size and appropriate identification/instruction labels. All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements. Additional testing shall be as specified in Table VII. The labels shall have good colorfastness to laundering after three (3) launderings when tested in accordance with

AATCC TM61.

3.6.6.1 Combination size/identification/instruction label. The heat transfer label for the All-Purpose Shorts shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type III, Class 14. The label shall be approximately 1-7/10 (+1/8) inches wide by 2-2/5 (+1/8) inches long conforming to dimensions on Figure 7, and shall contain the following text for washing instructions:

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Type I All-Purpose Short:

U.S. AIR FORCE

WOMEN’S

MADE IN USA

SIZE

SHELL: 100% Polyester

SIDE PANEL: 100% Polyester

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH LIKE

COLORS

MILD DETERGENT

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTENER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

[This space intentionally left blank]

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Type II All-Purpose Short:

U.S. SPACE FORCE

WOMEN’S

MADE IN USA

SIZE

SHELL: 100% Polyester

SIDE PANEL: 100% Polyester

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH LIKE

COLORS

MILD DETERGENT

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTENER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

3.6.6.2 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a Type VIII, Class 17, label/tag in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075. The label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item.

3.7 Performance Characteristics.

3.7.1 Reflective durability requirements. After application of the graphics on the garments an additional test shall be performed to ensure proper application of the transfers. The garments should be washed with a mild detergent and with the machine set on a normal/cotton sturdy cycle. Three (3) samples of each garment shall be tested in accordance with AATCC TM150 (1), IV, (A)i specified in Table VIII. A visual inspection shall be performed after 50 washes. There shall be no evidence of flaking, peeling or delaminating. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.7.2 End item dimensional stability after laundering. End item shall not shrink or extend more than 3 percent in length after five (5) launderings in accordance with AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i specified in Table VIII. One (1) garment each size shall be tested.

3.8 Patterns. Government patterns that show directional lines, size, and notches for the proper assembling of the parts of the All-Purpose Shorts will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows in Table I:

TABLE I. Seam allowances.

Seam Allowance Pattern 3/8 inch For side panel, front/back rises, inseam, pocket, and vent 3/4 inch For leg opening hem

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the All-Purpose Shorts shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated in Table II:

TABLE II. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts

Basic (see 3.5.1) Front Right RFR 1 Front Left LFR 1

Back BACK 2 Zipper Facing ZIP 2 Top Pocket TOPPK 2

Bottom Pocket BTMPK 2 Mesh (see 3.5.2) Side Panel SD 2

3.9 Construction. The All-Purpose Shorts shall be constructed as specified in Table IV;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations therein.

The stitches per inch specified in Table IV shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the All-Purpose Shorts shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished All-Purpose Shorts

3.9.1 Stitches and seams. Stitching and seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same part of an operation, any of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the All-Purpose Shorts. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.9.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.9.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the end of the stitching. When making the repair, the ends of the stitches are not required to be backstitched.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.9.1.2 Types 401, 406, 502, 503, 504, and 506 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished All-Purpose Shorts.

3.9.1.2.1 Repairs of Types 401, 406, 502, 503, 504, and 506 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.9.1.1.1 a. and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.3 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.9.2 Buttonhole. There shall be one (1) vertical buttonhole that shall be straight cut, purl or whip type, and the finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 1/2 inch. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused within 1/8 inch of the tack. The buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made, and correctly positioned.

3.9.3 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table III. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching:

Table III. Bartack Placement.

Bartack Numbers Bartack Location Direction Size of

Tack Stitches per Tack

# of Bartacks Total #

Top of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 3/8" 21-28 1 2

Bottom of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 3/8" 21-28 1 2

3 Top of vent centered on seam allowance Horizontal 3/8" 21-28 1 2

3.9.4 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three (3) overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.5 Cutting. The parts of the All-Purpose Shorts shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.8 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table II.

3.9.6 Appearance of seams. The seams on the finished All-Purpose Shorts shall finish smooth and flat and shall have an appearance rating of 4.0 or greater after five (5) launderings.

Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be as specified in Table

VIII.

3.10 Manufacturing operation requirements. The All-Purpose Shorts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table IV. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table IV, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or loose.

3.10.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the All-Purpose Shorts shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each short. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

3.10.2 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table IV are as follows:

Brtck - Bartack Btnhl - Buttonhole

TABLE IV. Manufacturing operation requirements.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

1. Cut basic material.

a. Cut the shorts in accordance with the patterns, which show directional lines, size, and placement of pockets, and notches for proper assembly of parts.

b. Spread the basic material without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic material.

c. Cut all parts of shorts made from the basic material from the same piece of basic material.

2. Cut side panel.

Cut the material for the side panel in the warp direction, following the grain lines on the patterns.

3. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the shorts to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the shorts.

4. Replace defective and damaged parts.

a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

b. Replace any part of the Shorts that is damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or an exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished Shorts.

TABLE IV. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

5. Reflective (Type I).

a. Position the reflective striping to the right front, right back, and left back panels, following placement markers on the patterns.

Apply the reflective to the panels according to the suppliers’ instructions.

b. Position the reflective logo to the left front panel, following placement markers on the pattern. Apply the reflective to the panel according to the suppliers’ instructions.

6. Reflective (Type II).

Position the reflective logo to the left front panel, following placement markers on the pattern. Apply the reflective to the panel according to the suppliers’ instructions.

7. Labeling.

Position the size/identification/instruction label on the left back (as worn). The size/identification/ instruction label shall be applied with a heated press according to the suppliers’ instructions. The placement shall be set 1-1/2 inches below bottom of waistband edge and 1 inch from the center back seam.

8. Make pockets.

a. Sew pocket facing to front panel and staystitch. 301 LSq-2(B) 10-12

b. Sew zipper in between pocket facing and pocket bag. 301 SSc-2(B) 10-12

c. Sew zipper in between side panel and pocket bag. 301 SSc-2(B) 10-12

d. Overedge stitch the pocket bags together. 506 SSa-1 16-18

e. Sew side panel to front panel stopping at vent. 301 SSc-2(B) 10-12

f. Sew pocket bag to front panel with a 5/8 inch top stitch 301 LSq-2 (B) 10-12

g. Fold seam to front panel and edgestitch 1/16 inch stopping at vent.

301 LSq-2 (B) 10-12

NOTE: DO NOT catch pocketing opening in the edgestitch.

9. Overedge stitch.

a. Overedge stitch the front and back panels to the side panels.

b. Overedge stitch together the center front seam and the seat seam.

c. Overedge stitch together the inseam of the shorts.

506 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1

16-18 16-18 16-18

10. Edgestitch.

Folding side panel seam towards back panel, edgestitch on basic material 1/16 inch.

301 LSq-2(B) 10-12

11. Vents.

3/8 inch topstitch to create vents. 301 LSq-2(B) 10-12

TABLE IV. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

12. Bartack.

a. Bartack the upper end of each pocket opening 1 inch below the bottom stitching of the waistband. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening so that the bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam (horizontal).

Brtck 21-28

b. Bartack the top of vent, 1-3/4 inch above hem. Brtck 21-28

13. Hems.

1/4 inch coverstitch a 3/4 inch hem on the shell of the shorts. 406 EFa-2 12-14

14. Buttonholes.

On the inside of the waistband, sew one (1) buttonhole 1/4 inch from the center front on wearer’s left side and 5/8 inch below the top of waistband (±1/8 inch).

Btnhl 52-54

15. Make waistbands.

a. Attach elastic for the waistband with overedge. 502 or

503 or

SSa-1 8-10

b. Stitch raw edges of elastic at the center back. 301 SSa-1 10-12

c. The stitching for the elastic waist shall be of four (4) rows;

chainstitch one (1) row 1/4 inch from top of the waistband. Second chainstitch row shall measure 1/2 inch from top of the waistband.

Third chainstitch row shall measure 1-1/2 inches from the top of the waistband. Fourth chainstitch row shall measure 1-3/4 inches from the top of the waistband.

NOTE: The waistband fullness shall be evenly distributed.

401 EFA-2 10-12

16. Draw cords.

a. Pull the draw cord loop through buttonhole in center front.

b. Knot the draw cords.

17. Clean shorts.

Trim thread ends and remove loose threads. Remove spots, stains, and shade or size markings.

3.11 Finished measurements. The All-Purpose Shorts shall conform to the finished measurements in Table V.

TABLE V. Finished measurements, All-Purpose Shorts (inches).

Size

1/2 Waist

(relaxed) (A)

1/2 Hip (B)

1/2 Thigh

(C)

1/2 Leg

Opening (D)

Inseam (E)

Front Rise (F)

Back Rise (G)

Side Seam Pocket

Opening (H)

XX-Small 11-1/4 18-3/4 12 10-1/4 7 10 13-1/2 6-1/2 X-Small 12-1/4 19-3/4 12-1/2 10-3/4 7 10-1/2 14 6-1/2 Small 13-1/4 20-3/4 13 11-1/4 7 11 14-1/2 6-1/2 Medium 14-1/4 21-3/4 13-1/2 11 3/4 7 11-1/2 15 6-1/2 Large 15-3/4 23-1/4 14-1/4 12-1/2 7 12-1/4 15-3/4 6-1/2 X-Large 17-1/4 24-3/4 15 13-1/4 7 13 16-1/2 6-1/2 XX-Large 18-3/4 26-1/4 15-3/4 14 7 13-3/4 17-1/4 6-1/2 XXX-Large 20-1/4 27-3/4 16-1/2 14-3/4 7 14-1/2 18 6-1/2 XXXX-Large 21-3/4 29-1/4 17-1/4 15-1/2 7 15-1/4 18-3/4 6-1/2

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4

TABLE VI. Finished reflective placement measurements (inches).

Sizes

Type I Type II Type I and II Type I Left Leg

Logo from Side Seam

(I)

Left Leg Logo from Side

Seam (J)

Left Leg Logo from Hem

(K)

Diagonal Leg Stripes from

Hem (L)

Diagonal Leg Stripes from Side Seam

(M) All 1-3/8 2-1/4 1-3/4 5 5

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

3.11.1 Methods of measurement. The All-Purpose Shorts shall be laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows (see Figure 8 for a visual of how to measure the All-Purpose Shorts):

(A) 1/2 Waist (relaxed) Measure across top of shorts with elastic relaxed. Measure from folded edge to folded edge.

(B) 1/2 Hip Measure across front of shorts at the bottom of the side seam pocket bartack, folded edge to folded edge.

(C) 1/2 Thigh Measure straight across the front starting at the crotch seam, folded edge to folded edge.

(D) 1/2 Leg Opening With side vent closed, measure straight across front hem of the shorts.

(E) Inseam Measure along inseam from crotch seam to bottom of hem.

(F) Front Rise Measure along front rise seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

(G) Back Rise Measure along back rise seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished All-Purpose Shorts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the Contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each All-Purpose Shorts shall be examined, draw cord shall be loosely knotted and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. An All-Purpose Short containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in Table IX. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article inspection. The first article sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample size will be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of

(H) Side Seam Pocket Opening

Measure from bartack to bartack on side seam pocket opening.

(I) Left Leg Reflective Logo from Side Seam (Type I)

Measure from the wearer’s left at top point of logo to the side seam.

(J) Left Leg Reflective Logo from Side Seam (Type II)

Measure from the top of the logo to the side seam.

(K) Left Leg Reflective Logo from Hem

Measure from center bottom point of logo to the bottom of the hem for Type I, and from the center of the imaginary line to the bottom of the hem for Type II.

(L) Diagonal Reflective Leg Stripes from Hem (Type I)

Measure up from the hem, along the side seam to the bottom of the reflective stripe, on all (3) leg stripes.

(M) Diagonal Reflective Leg Stripes from Side Seam (Type I)

Measure from bottom edge of stripe, across hem, to the side seam.

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable purchase document.

4.3.1.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table VII shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table VII shall be followed. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:

Component Lot size unit Sample unit Thread Spool 3 each size Label Piece 3 each label

Zipper tape Piece 1 each size Reflective Sheet 1 each design

TABLE VII. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method Thread Shrinkage 3.6.4 ASTM D204 Label Colorfastness to laundering 3.6.6 AATCC TM61, 2A 2/, 3/

Zipper Tape Colorfastness to laundering 3.6.3 AATCC TM61, 2A 1/, 2/, 3/

Reflective Flaking and delamination 3.6.5.2 AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i

Reflectivity 3.6.5.1 ANSI/ISEA 107 AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i

1/ Only test one (1) zipper tape in each size of the garment.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

3/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining or AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects.

Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.3.3 End item testing. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching, reflective durability, and dimensional stability after laundering of the finished All-Purpose Shorts shall be tested and examined in accordance with Table VIII.

NOTE: Shade parts – There shall be no variation in shade within a part or between parts.

TABLE VIII. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method Seam Appearance 3.9.6 AATCC TM143 (1), VI, (A)i Reflective durability after 50 washes (flaking and delaminating)

3.7.1 AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i

Dimensional stability after 5 launderings

3.7.2 AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i

4.3.4 End item dimensional examination. The All-Purpose Shorts shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table V. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of the short.

The inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.5 End item dimensional inspection. In accordance with 3.11, finished All-Purpose Shorts shall meet the measurements in Table V when measured as specified in 3.11.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

4.3.6 End item visual examination. Finished All-Purpose Shorts shall be examined for visual defects in accordance with the defects listed in Table IX. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item examinations of All-Purpose Shorts, dimensional examination, and packaging inspection shall be performed in accordance with purchase order or contract. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

TABLE IX. Defects.

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor

A Minor

B

a. Any hole 1/ *

b. Abrasion damaging the fabric *

c. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole.

d. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside of All-Purpose Shorts *

e. Needle chew that might develop into hole *

f. Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn 1/ *

g. Needle holes in outer fabric X

Shaded Parts

a. Any shaded parts on outside of All-Purpose Shorts *

b. Color not as specified X

Cleanliness

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of All- Purpose Shorts X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of All-Purpose Shorts X

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of All- Purpose Shorts or two (2) or more markings not removed X

Components

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein) *

b. Any component part omitted (not classified herein) *

c. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements. *

d. Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full to the degree that serviceability or appearance is affected. *

Bartacks

a. One (1) bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. X

b. Two (2) bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. X

c. Three (3) or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose. X

d. Any bartack not specified length X

Seams and Stitching

a. Seam distorted, twisted, pleated, or puckered *

TABLE IX. Defects – Continued.

Major Minor

A Minor

B

Seams and Stitching – Continued

b. Any part of All-Purpose Shorts caught in unrelated operation or stitching *

c. Thread(s) used on outside of All-Purpose Shorts not same shade or not satisfactorily matching shade of All-Purpose Shorts

X

d. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked X

e. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of All- Purpose Shorts X

f. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

X

g. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified

X

h. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch 2/ X

i. Open seam over 1/4 inch 2/ X

j. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

X

k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/ X

l. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of All-Purpose Shorts 3/ X

m. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of All-Purpose Shorts 3/ X

n. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of All-Purpose Shorts 3/ X

o. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of All-Purpose Shorts 3/ X

p. Run-offs more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

q. Run-offs more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/ X

r. Seam or stitch not specified type X

s. Loose tension resulting in loose seam X

t. Loose tension on edge or top stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread X

Major Minor

A Minor

B

Seams and Stitching – Continued

u. Tight tension 5/ X

v. Stitches per inch on major portion of All-Purpose Shorts one

(1) or two (2) less than specified X

w. Stitches per inch on major portion of All-Purpose Shorts three (3) less than specified X

x. Stitches per inch on major portion of All-Purpose Shorts four

(4) or more less than specified X

y. Stitches per inch on major portion of All-Purpose Shorts more than specified X

z. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more X

aa. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced X

bb. Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability X

cc. Topstitching not finishing as specified X

dd. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch X

Reflective Heat Transfer

a. Heat transfers applied incorrectly *

b. Heat transfers placement not as specified *

c. Heat transfers peeling *

Labels

a. Heat transfer label missing, incorrect, or illegible X

b. Heat transfer label positioned or attached incorrectly X

c. Heat transfer label applied incorrectly *

d. Heat transfer label placement not as specified *

e. Heat transfer label text peeling *

Pockets

a. Pockets not similar in shape X

b. Pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch X

Waistband

a. All-Purpose Shorts twisted or pleated by stitching forming waistband X

b. Distance between stitch lines on waistband less than 7/8 inch or more than 1-1/8 inches X

c. Waistband stitching varying more than 1/8 inch X

Major Minor

A Minor

B

Waistband – Continued

d. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed X

e. Waistband curling X

f. Draw cord missing or not functioning X

Zipper Pockets

a. Zipper tape set on too loosely or too tightly causing excessive bulging at pocket opening, affecting appearance while open or closed

X

b. Zipper not specified type, size, or style or any part of assembly omitted, bent, or broken

X

c. Pocket stitched too closed to plastic molded chain, not permitting slider to pass

X

d. Zipper has a gap more than 1/4 inch between zipper and pocket edge

X

All-Purpose Shorts Legs

Hem uneven by more than 1/8 inch X

Dimensions

Measurement of item not as specified X

* Defects marked with an asterisk are major defects if they affect serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability.

1/ If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is non weakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein.

2/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge or top stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.

3/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Run-offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams.

5/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.

4.4 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and

4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the Contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.5 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The All-Purpose Shorts are intended to be worn by Military personnel of the Department of the Air Force and Space Force.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Types, classes, and sizes required (see 1.2 and 1.3).

c. Quantity required.

d. When a first article sample is required (see 3.1).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

f. Issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

g. Conformance inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

6.3 Material sources. All the suggested material sources shall be provided for reference.

6.3.1 Reflective material source. A suggested source for reflective transfer material featuring 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material 8725N and 5721 glass-beaded reflective material is Safe Reflections, Safe Reflections 3220 Granada Ave. N, Saint Paul, MN USA 55128, (651) 748-.7955, www.SafeReflections.com (see 3.6.5). Table X provides the related style numbers for each reflective type and placement.

6.3.2 Waistband elastic and draw cord material source. A suggested source for elastic waistband and draw cord material is AEC Narrow Fabrics 150 North Park Street Asheboro, NC 27203, (336) 629-2626, www.aecnarrowfabrics.com (see 3.6.2). Table X provides the related style number for the waistband elastic and draw cord.

Table X. Sources.

Types Description Manufacturer Style Number

Type I Silver Front Right, Back Left Single Stripe Roll Reflective Heat Transfer

Safe Reflections RC-8725N06-20757-0000-CP4

Type I Silver Back Right Stripe Roll Reflective Heat Transfer Safe Reflections RC-8725N06-20757-0000-

CP4M

Type I Silver Air Force Logo Left Front Leg Safe Reflections HC-LTS5721-20266-0000-SC

Type II Silver Space Force Logo Left Front Leg Safe Reflections HC-HLS5721-21331-0000-SC-

D2

Type I and II 2 inches wide waistband elastic with black draw cord AEC Narrow Fabrics QCT-4399 with Black draw cord

6.4 Standard sample, artwork, and Government pattern. For access to standard shade samples, artwork and Government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

All-Purpose Short

Physical Training

Uniform https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

FIGURE 1. All-Purpose Short, Physical Training Gear, front view.

Type I Type II

FIGURE 2. All-Purpose Short, Physical Training Gear, side view.

FIGURE 3. All-Purpose Short, Physical Training Gear, back view.

FIGURE 4. Logos for front left leg heat transfer (see 6.4).

2-1/4 inches in width

2 inches in height

1-1/2 inches in width

2-1/4 inches in height

FIGURE 5. Segmented Stripe for front and back leg heat transfers.

Type I

5/8 inch in width

FIGURE 6. Label heat transfer placement.

1-1/2 inches down from waistband

1 inch from the back seam

FIGURE 7. Label heat transfer (see 6.4).

1-7/10 inches

2-2/5 inches

1-7/10 inches

2-2/5 inches

FIGURE 8. All-Purpose Shorts, Physical Training Gear, How to Measure.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review activities:

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT