Spec-11-PD 20016C-AF-SF PTG Run Trnks -Womens-FINAL.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD 20016C

13 December 2021

SUPERSEDING

11-PD 20016B

1 September 2021

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

RUNNING SHORT, WOMEN’S: PHYSICAL TRAINING GEAR

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way

Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

mailto:aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for the Physical Training Gear (PTG) Running Shorts. The Running Shorts are intended for wear by U.S. Air Force (USAF) and U.S. Space Force (USSF) female personnel.

1.2 Classification. The Running Shorts are to be of the following types and classes, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Types. The types of the women’s Running Short are as follows:

Type I – Air Force Type II – Space Force

1.2.2 Classes. The classes of the women’s Running Short are as follows:

Class 1 – 100 percent polyester, Air Force Shade Blue 1673 Class 2 – 100 percent polyester, Space Force Shade Black 1681

1.3 Schedule of lengths and sizes. The Running Shorts are furnished in the following lengths and sizes (see 6.2):

Schedule of Lengths and Sizes

Length Size Short (S) XX-Small X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XXXX-Large

Regular (R) XX-Small X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XXXX-Large Long (L) XX-Small X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large XXX-Large XXXX-Large

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description, whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-DTL-32075 Label: for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use)

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

11-PD 20011 Cloth, Texturized, Woven, Polyester 11-PD 20012 Cloth, Jersey Knit, Short Liner, Polyester, Spandex 11-PD 20009 Cloth, Double Knit Mesh, Short Side Panel, Polyester

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity, or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM143 Appearance of Apparel and Textile Products after Laundering AATCC TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale

(Copies of the AATCC Technical Manual are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(DoD Adopted) (Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D204 Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (DoD Adopted)

(Copies are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.aatcc.org/ https://www.asq.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ https://www.astm.org/

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.2. The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or biobased materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The Running Shorts shall be a mid-thigh athletic style short, using a performance woven shell with a stretch knit short-style liner with an ID pocket. The Running Shorts shall have an elastic waistband with a drawstring, side seam pockets, vented mesh side panels, reflective logo, and reflective striping (Type I only) (see Figures 1 through 4).

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 9 are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Materials.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the Running Shorts shall be 100 percent polyester, with a durable anti-microbial and moisture management finish, a 2-up-2 down right hand twill and conform to 11-PD-20011, Type I, Class 1 for Air Force Shade Blue 1673, Type I, Class 3 for Space Force Shade Black 1681.

3.5.2 Lining. The cloth for the lining of the Running Shorts shall have a nominal 88 percent polyester and 12 percent Lycra and conform to 11-PD-20012, Class 1 for Air Force Shade Blue 1675, Class 2 for Space Force Shade Black 1683 as specified (see 6.2).

3.5.3 Side panel knit. The mesh side panel knit for the Running Shorts shall be 100 percent polyester with a durable anti-microbial and moisture management finish, conforming to 11-PD 20009 Class 1 for Air Force Shade Blue 1673, and Class 2 for Space Force Shade Black 1681.

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Pocketing. The basic material shall be used for the pocketing.

3.6.2 Waistband elastic. The elastic for the waistband shall be a 35 percent elastic and 65 percent polyester 2 inch wide knitted elastic. The elastic shall meet the requirement for 120 percent elongation (±10 percent), finished 50 picks/inch, warp and fill 1/150 textured polyester, Elastic Element 34 gauge extruded latex. The color shall be natural, unbleached, or dyed black.

A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.3 Drawstring. The flat woven drawstring shall be 100 percent polyester, 10 millimeter width, twill weave, 100 denier for the binding, 150 denier for the weft, and 300 denier for the warp, and shall be black. Knot the end of the drawstring to prevent unraveling. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

TABLE I: Drawstring length (inches).

Size Length

XX-Small 40 X-Small 42 Small 44 Medium 46 Large 49 X-Large 52 XX-Large 55 XXX-Large 58 XXXX-Large 61

3.6.4 Thread. The thread shall be polyester core, polyester covered, Tex 27 2-ply is used for single needle operations as well as the needles of the overlock machines and Tex 24 2-ply is used for the buttonholes, bartacks, and loopers for the overlock and coverstitch machines conforming to A-A-50199, Type II. The color shall be a good match to the basic material. The thread shrinkage shall be less than 3 percent when tested using ASTM D204 in Table VIII.

3.6.4.1 Color. The color of the thread shall have a good match to the basic material.

3.6.5 Reflective materials. The reflective heat transfer logos and trim(s) shall be produced using segmented heat transfer film made with glass beaded reflective material. The heat transfer shall be applied using supplier’s instructions and shall conform to specifications in

3.6.5.1 through 3.6.5.4.

3.6.5.1 Reflectivity. The photometric performance of the reflective materials shall be tested in accordance with ANSI/ISEA 107 American National Standard for High-Visibility Safety Apparel. The performance requirement of the reflective material shall be tested and certified for the Level 2 category. The tests shall include initial photometric measurements prior to test exposure, and photometric measurements after the following test exposures: abrasion, flexing, folding at cold temperatures, temperature variation, and washing. The reflective material shall have a minimum initial level of reflectivity of 300 cd/lux/m2 and have a minimum level of reflectivity of 100 cd/lux/m2 after 50 launderings, with mild detergent in accordance with AATCC TM135 Test Method (1), IV, (A)i specified in Table VIII. A certificate of compliance will be acceptable for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.5.2 Flaking and delamination after laundering. Reflective transfers shall show no signs of flaking, peeling or delaminating after 50 launderings, with mild detergent in accordance with AATCC TM135, (1), IV, (A)i as specified in Table VIII. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted acceptable for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.6.5.3 Reflective front left logo. The front left lower leg of the short shall have a silver reflective logo conforming to the dimensions on Figure 5. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.5.4 Reflective leg stripes (Type I). The front right leg, both back left, and right leg shall have a silver reflective segmented stripe conforming to the dimensions on Figure 6. The reflective shall be placed according to the markers on the pattern.

3.6.6 Labels. The Running Shorts shall have size and appropriate identification/instruction labels. All labels shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075 and contracting agency requirements. The label shall have good (3.5 or better) colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC TM61 after five (5) launderings as specified in Table VIII.

3.6.6.1 Combination size/identification/instruction label. The heat transfer label for the Running Shorts shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type III, Class 14. The label shall be approximately 1-7/10 (±1/8) inches wide and from 2-2/5 (±1/8) inches long conforming to the dimensions on Figure 8, and shall contain the following text for washing instructions:

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Type I Running Short:

U.S. AIR FORCE

WOMEN’S

MADE IN USA

SIZE

SHELL: 100% POLYESTER

LINER: 88% POLYESTER/12%

LYCRA

SIDE PANEL: 100% POLYESTER

TURN INSIDE OUT PRIOR TO

LAUNDERING

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH LIKE

COLORS

MILD DETERGENT

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTENER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

[This space intentionally left blank]

The contents of the label shall be as follows for Type II Running Short:

U.S. SPACE FORCE

WOMEN’S

MADE IN USA

SIZE

SHELL: 100% POLYESTER

LINER: 88% POLYESTER/12%

LYCRA

SIDE PANEL: 100% POLYESTER

TURN INSIDE OUT PRIOR TO

LAUNDERING

MACHINE WASH WARM WITH LIKE

COLORS

MILD DETERGENT

DO NOT USE BLEACH

TUMBLE DRY

LOW HEAT

WARNING:

THE USE OF FABRIC SOFTENER

WILL HARM THE MOISTURE

WICKING PROPERTIES OF THIS

GARMENT

3.6.6.2 Barcode label. Each item shall be individually barcoded with a Type VIII, Class 17, label/tag in accordance with MIL-DTL-32075. The label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item

3.7 Performance Characteristics.

3.7.1 Reflective durability requirements. After application of the graphics on the garments an additional test shall be performed to ensure proper application of the transfers. The garments should be washed with a mild detergent and with the machine set on a normal/cotton sturdy cycle. Three (3) samples of each garment shall be tested in accordance with AATCC TM150 (1), IV, (A)i specified in Table IX. A visual inspection shall be performed after 50 washes. There shall be no evidence of flaking, peeling or delaminating. A certificate of compliance shall be submitted for this requirement (see 4.5).

3.7.2 End item dimensional stability after laundering. End item shall not shrink or extend more than 3 percent in length after five (5) launderings in accordance with AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i specified in Table IX. One (1) garment each size from a regular length shall be tested.

3.8 Patterns. Government patterns that show directional lines, size, notches, placement for the proper assembling of the parts of the Running Shorts will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except that additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as follows in Table II:

TABLE II. Seam allowances.

Seam Allowance Pattern

3/8 inch For side panel, vent, front/back rises, inseam, pocket, liner inseam, liner rises, and liner hem

3/4 inch For leg opening hem

1/4 inch For liner attachment to waist and side seams of I.D. pouch pocket

3.8.1 List of pattern parts. The component parts of the Running Shorts shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated in Table III:

TABLE III. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts

Basic (see 3.5.1) Front Right RTFR 1 Front Right (Short length only) RTFR_S 1

Front Left LFFR 1 Front Left (Short length only) LFFR_S 1

Back BK 2 Back (Short length only) BK_S 2

Pocket Bag PKT 4 Mesh (see 3.5.3) Side Panel SD 2

Side Panel (Short length only) SD_S 2 Lining (see 3.5.2) I.D. Pocket IDPKT 1

Liner LINER 2 Liner (Short length only) LINER_S 2

3.9 Construction. The Running Shorts shall be constructed as specified in Table V;

however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed as long as the resultant Running Shorts are exactly the same as the Running Shorts made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table V shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch. Additional basting and holding stitching to facilitate the manufacture of the Running Shorts shall be permitted, provided the thread used for the additional basting and holding stitching is removed or shall not show on the finished Running Shorts.

3.9.1 Stitches and seams. Stitching and seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same part of an operation, any of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the Running Shorts. The depth between the fold of seams that are required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric.

3.9.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitch overlap is required. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded in the materials sewn.

3.9.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the end of the stitching. When making the repair, the ends of the stitches are not required to be backstitched.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch behind the defective area, continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.9.1.2 Types 401, 406, 502, 503, 504, 506, and 607 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Where 401 stitch type is used the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished Running Shorts.

3.9.1.2.1 Repairs to types 401, 406, 502, 503, 504, 506, and 607 stitching. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.9.1.1.1 a. and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.3 Thread breaks and end of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with stitch Type 301, if not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. All thread breaks shall be secured by stitching behind the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitching and thread breaks in stitch Type 401 may be repaired using stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.4 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.9.2 Buttonholes. There shall be two (2) vertical buttonholes that shall be straight cut, purl or whip type, and the finished cut length of the buttonholes shall be 1/2 inch. The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused within 1/8 inch of the tack. The buttonholes shall be clean cut, well made, and correctly positioned.

3.9.3 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table VI. Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.

Table IV. Bartack Placement.

Bartack Numbers Bartack Location Direction Size of

Tack Stitches per

Tack # of

Bartacks Total #

Top of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 1/4" 16-22 1 2

Bottom of side seam pocket centered on seam allowance

Horizontal 1/4" 16-22 1 2

3 Top of vent centered on seam allowance Horizontal 1/4" 16-22 1 2

3.9.4 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met; and at least three (3) overlapping or backstitches are used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.5 Cutting. The parts of the Running Short shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.8 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table III.

3.9.6 Appearance of seams. The seams on the finished Running Short shall finish smooth and flat and shall have an appearance rating of 4.0 or greater after five (5) launderings.

Puckering on a major portion of a seam that is worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam. The test method for the appearance of seams shall be as specified in Table IX.

3.10 Manufacturing operation requirements. The Running Shorts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table V. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table V, provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the purchase description. The thread tension shall be properly maintained on all stitching operations so that the stitching will not be too tight or loose.

3.10.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the Running Shorts shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each short. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets, which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark

3.10.2 Abbreviations in manufacturing operation requirements table. The abbreviations used in Table V are as follows:

Brtck - Bartack Btnhl - Buttonhole I.D. - Identification WB - Waistband

TABLE V. Manufacturing operation requirements.

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

1. Cut basic material.

a. Cut the shorts in accordance with the patterns, which show directional lines, size, and placement of pockets, and notches for proper assembly of parts.

b. Spread the basic material without tension. Place the directional lines of the patterns in the warp direction of the basic material.

c. Cut all parts of shorts made from the basic material from the same piece of basic material.

2. Cut lining.

Cut the lining material for the liner and I.D. pocket following the grainlines of the pattern.

3. Cut side panel.

Cut the material for the side panel in the warp direction, following the grain lines on the patterns.

4. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the shorts to ensure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade throughout the shorts.

5. Replace defective and damaged parts.

a. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, components containing a defect shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components.

b. Replace any part of the shorts that is damaged by a needle chew, cut, tear, hole, burn, or an exposed drill hole during the manufacturing process. Replace any part that contains a mend that will be visible on the outside of the finished shorts.

6. Reflective (Type I).

a. Position the reflective striping to the right front, right back, and left back panels following placement markers on the patterns.

Apply the reflective to the panels according to the suppliers’ instructions.

b. Position the reflective logo to the left front panel following placement markers on the patterns. Apply the reflective to the panel according to the suppliers’ instructions.

7. Reflective (Type II).

Position the reflective logo to the left front panel following placement markers on the patterns. Apply the reflective to the panel according to the suppliers’ instructions.

8. Labeling.

Position the size/identification/instruction label on the left back (as worn) liner. The size/identification/instruction label shall be applied according to the suppliers’ instructions, and will face the wearer.

The placement shall be set 1-1/2 inches below WB and 1 inch from wearer’s left of center back seam.

9. Make pockets.

a. Overedge stitch the pocket bags together. 506 SSa-1 16-18

TABLE V. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

9. Make pockets – Continued.

b. Sew pocket bag to front panel with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

Turn seam to inside of pocket and edgestitch 1/16 inch from the edge.

LSq-2(B) 10-12

c. Single needle topstitch 1/4 inch from edge of pocket. 301 SSc-2(B) 10-12

10. Overedge stitch for outer shell.

a. Overedge stitch the front and back panels to the side panels. 506 SSa-1 16-18

b. Overedge stitch together the inseam of the shorts. 506 SSa-1 16-18

c. Overedge stitch together the center front seam and the seat seam.

506 SSa-1 16-18

11. Vents.

1/4 inch topstitch to create vents. 301 LSq-2(A) 10-12

12. Flatlock stitch for lining.

a. Flatlock stitch together the front and back rise. 607 FSa-1 10-12

b. Flatlock stitch inseams together. 607 FSa-1 10-12

13. Edgestitch.

a. Edgestitch 1/16 inch at center front seam and center back seam.

301 LSq-2(B) 12-14

b. Edgestitch each side of side panel on basic material 1/16 inch including seam allowance. Note: DO NOT catch pocketing opening in the edgestitch.

301 LSq-2(B) 10-12

14. Bartack.

a. Bartack the upper end of each pocket opening 2 inches below the top of the waistband. Bartack the lower end of each pocket opening so that the bartacks shall be parallel to the waistline seam (horizontal).

Brtck 16-22

b. Bartack at top of vent, 1-3/4 inches above hem. Brtck 16-22

15. I.D. card patch pocket.

Finished appearance: The shorts shall have an I.D. patch pocket at the waistband seam of the wearer’s right back liner. The pocket will finish at 3 inches by 3-1/2 inches.

a. 1/8 inch coverstitch a 1/2 inch hem of the top and bottom of the waist seam pocket.

406 EFa-2 10-12

b. Fold top 1-1/4 inches. Fold bottom up 2-3/8 inches and overlock each side to form pocket. Turn pocket and stitch to top of right back liner at notches.

506 SSa-1 16-18

c. Turn pocket and stitch to top of right back liner at notches. 301 SSa-1 8-10

16. Hems.

a. 1/4 inch coverstitch a 3/4 inch hem on the shell of the shorts. 406 EFa-2 12-14

b. 1/4 inch coverstitch a 3/8 inch hem on the lining of the shorts. 406 EFa-2 12-14

17. Buttonholes.

On the inside of the waistband, sew two (2) buttonholes evenly spaced from the center front. 3/8 inch from center front seam on each side and 1/4 inch below the top of waistband (±1/8 inch).

Btnhl 52-54

TABLE V. Manufacturing operation requirements – Continued.

Type

Seam and Stitch Type

Stitch per Inch

18. Make waistbands and attach liner.

a. Attach elastic to the shell and the liner with overedge stitch. 502 or

503 or

SSa-1 8-10

b. The stitching for the elastic waist shall be of three (3) rows;

chainstitch one (1) row 1/4 inch from top of the waistband. Second chainstitch row shall measure 3/4 inch from top of the waistband.

Third chainstitch row shall measure 1 inch from the top of the waistband.

NOTE: The waistband fullness shall be evenly distributed.

401 EFA-2 10-12

19. Drawstrings.

a. Insert drawstring into waistband. Staystitch drawstring through all plies at center back in line with top stitch of seat seam.

301 SSs-1 10-12

b. Knot ends of drawstring.

20. Clean shorts.

Trim thread ends and remove loose threads. Remove spots, stains, and shade or size markings.

3.11 Finished measurements. The Running Shorts shall conform to the finished measurements in Table VI.

TABLE VI. Finished measurements (inches).

Size 1/2 Waist (relaxed)

(A)

1/2 Hip (B)

1/2 Leg Opening

(C)

Side Seam Pocket

Opening (D)

XX-Small 11-1/4 18-1/2 11-3/4 6 X-Small 12-1/4 19-1/2 12-1/4 6 Small 13-1/4 20-1/2 12-3/4 6 Medium 14-1/4 21-1/2 13-1/4 6 Large 15-3/4 23 14 6 X-Large 17-1/4 24-1/2 14-3/4 6 XX-Large 18-3/4 26 15-1/2 6 XXX-Large 20-1/4 27-1/2 16-1/4 6 XXXX-Large 21-3/4 29 17 6

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/4

TABLE VI. Finished measurements (inches) – Continued.

Size

Inseam (E)

Front Rise (F)

Back Rise (G)

Short Regular Long Short Regular Long Short Regular Long XX-Small 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 9-3/4 10-1/4 10-3/4 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 X-Small 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 10-1/4 10-3/4 11-1/4 14 14-1/2 15 Small 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 10-3/4 11-1/4 11-3/4 14-1/2 15 15-1/2 Medium 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 11-1/4 11-3/4 12-1/4 15 15-1/2 16 Large 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 12 12-1/2 13 15-3/4 16-1/4 16-3/4 X-Large 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 12-3/4 13-1/4 13 3/4 16-1/2 17 17-1/2 XX-Large 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 13-1/2 14 14-1/2 17-1/4 17-3/4 18-1/4 XXX-Large 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 14-1/4 14-3/4 15-1/4 18 18-1/2 19 XXXX-Large 2-1/2 3-1/2 4-1/2 15 15-1/2 16 18-3/4 19-1/4 19-3/4

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

TABLE VII. Finished reflective placement measurements (inches).

Lengths

Type I Type II Type I and II Type I

Left Leg Reflective Logo from Side Seam

(H)

Left Leg Reflective Logo from Side Seam

(I)

Left Leg Reflective Logo from

Hem (J)

Diagonal Leg Reflective

Stripes from Hem (K)

Diagonal Leg Reflective Stripes from Side Seam

(L)

All 1-1/2 2-1/2 1-5/8 4-1/2 4-1/2

TOLERANCE ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2 ±1/2

3.11.1 Methods of measurement (Running Shorts). The Running Shorts shall be laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows (see Figure 9 for a visual of how to measure the Running Shorts):

(A) 1/2 Waist (relaxed) Measure across top of waistband of shorts with elastic relaxed measuring from folded edge to folded edge.

(B) 1/2 Hip Measure across front of shorts at the bottom of the side seam pocket bartack, folded edge to folded edge.

(C) 1/2 Leg Opening With side vent closed, measure straight across front hem of the shorts.

(D) Side Seam Pocket Opening

Measure from bartack to bartack of side seam pocket opening.

(E) Inseam Measure along inseam from crotch seam to bottom of hem.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished Running Shorts shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. As a final step in the contractor’s production quality control plan before formation of a lot, each Running Short shall be examined, drawstring loosely knotted and laid out flat on a table prior to folding for packaging. A Running Short containing a selected defect shall not be included in the end item lot. Selected defects are those defects listed in Table X indicated by an asterisk. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value or defect level.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article inspection (see 4.2)

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3)

4.2 First article inspection. The first article sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample size will be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

(F) Front Rise Measure along front rise seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

(G) Back Rise Measure along back rise seam from top of elastic waistband to crotch seam.

(H) Left Leg Reflective Logo from Side Seam (Type I)

Measure from the tip of logo to the side seam.

(I) Left Leg Reflective Logo from Side Seam (Type

II)

Measure from the top point of logo to the side seam.

(J) Left Leg Reflective Logo from Hem

Measure from center bottom point of logo to the bottom of the hem.

(K) Diagonal Leg Reflective Stripes from Hem (Type I)

Measure up from the hem, along the side seam to the bottom of the reflective stripe, on all three (3) leg stripes.

(L) Diagonal Leg Reflective Stripes from Side Seam (Type I)

Measure from bottom edge of stripe, across hem, to the side seam.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description or applicable purchase document.

4.3.1.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table VIII shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table VIII shall be followed. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirements specified. The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:

Component Lot size unit Sample unit Thread Spool 3 each size Label Piece 3 each label

Reflective Sheet 1 each design

TABLE VIII. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Thread Shrinkage 3.6.4 ASTM D204

Label Colorfastness to laundering 3.6.6 AATCC TM61, 2A 1/, 2/

Reflective Flaking and delamination 3.6.5.2 AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i

Reflectivity 3.6.5.1 ANSI-107 AATCC TM135 (1), IV, (A)i

1/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining or AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

4.3.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects.

Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.3.3 End item testing. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching, reflective durability, and dimensional stability after laundering of the finished Running Shorts shall be tested and examined in accordance with Table IX.

NOTE: Shade parts – There shall be no variation in shade within a part or between parts.

TABLE IX. End item testing.

Characteristic Requirement Test Method

Seam Appearance 3.9.6 AATCC TM143 (1), VI, (A)i

Reflective durability after 50 washes (flaking and delaminating) 3.7.1 AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i Dimensional stability after 5 launderings 3.7.2 AATCC TM150 (1), VI, (A)i

4.3.4 End item dimensional examination. The Running Shorts shall be examined for conformance to the dimensions specified in Table VI. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of the short.

The inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3.5 End item dimensional inspection. In accordance with 3.11, finished The Running Short shall meet the measurements in Table VI when measured as specified in 3.11.1. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

4.3.6 End item visual examination. Finished Running Shorts shall be examined for visual defects in accordance with the defects listed in Table X. Sampling and inspection provisions for end item examinations of Running Shorts, dimensional examination, and packaging inspection shall be performed in accordance with purchase order or contract. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable point value limit specified in purchase order or contract.

TABLE X. Defects.

Material Defects and Workmanship Damages Major Minor A

Minor B

a. Any hole 1/ *

b. Abrasion damaging the fabric *

c. Any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that might develop into hole.

d. Shade bar or unsightly slub on outside of Running Shorts *

e. Needle chew that might develop into hole *

f. Scissor or knife cut, tear, mend, pull, snag, or burn 1/ *

g. Needle holes in outer fabric X

Shaded Parts

a. Any shaded parts on outside of Running Shorts *

b. Color not as specified X

Cleanliness

a. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on outside of Running

Shorts X

b. Any spot or stain clearly noticeable on inside of Running Shorts

X

c. Thread ends not trimmed throughout major portion of Running Shorts or two (2) or more markings not removed

X

Components

a. Any defective component or defect of assembly (not classified herein)

b. Any component part omitted (not classified herein) *

c. Any component not cut in accordance with direction lines on patterns or specified requirements.

d. Any component part tight, twisted, distorted, pleated, or full to the degree that serviceability or appearance is affected.

Bartacks

a. One (1) bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

b. Two (2) bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

c. Three (3) or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced not serving intended purpose.

X

d. Any bartack not specified length X

Seams and Stitching

a. Seam distorted, twisted, pleated, or puckered *

b. Any part of Running Shorts caught in unrelated operation or stitching

TABLE X. Defects – Continued.

A

Minor B

Seams and Stitching – Continued

c. Thread(s) used on outside of Running Shorts not same shade or not satisfactorily matching shade of Running Shorts

X

d. Thread breaks or ends of stitching (if not caught in other seams or stitching) not securely backtacked

X

e. Looper thread of stitch type 401 exposed on outside of Running Shorts

X

f. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) irregular, i.e., unevenly gauged or corresponding stitching not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

X

g. Gauge of stitching (edge or top stitching) not within range of gauge specified or varying more than 1/16 inch if range is not specified

X

h. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch 2/ X

i. Open seam over 1/4 inch 2/ X

j. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/4 inch but not more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

X

k. Stitches skipped or broken more than 1/2 inch (on edge or top stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched) 2/

X

l. Raw edges more than 1/8 inch but not more than 1/4 inch on outside of Running Shorts 3/

X

m. Raw edges more than 1/4 inch on outside of Running Shorts 3/

X

n. Raw edges more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on inside of Running Shorts 3/

X

o. Raw edges more than 1 inch on inside of Running Shorts 3/ X

p. Run-offs more than 1/2 inch but not more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

q. Run-offs more than 1 inch on edge or top stitching if not resulting in open seam (outside only) 4/

X

r. Seam or stitch not specified type X

s. Loose tension resulting in loose seam X

t. Loose tension on edge or top stitching recognized by loosely exposed loops of top or lower thread X

u. Tight tension 5/ X

v. Stitches per inch on major portion of Running Shorts one (1) or two (2) less than specified X

w. Stitches per inch on major portion of Running Shorts three

(3) less than specified

X

x. Stitches per inch on major portion of Running Shorts four (4) or more less than specified

X

A

Minor B

Seams and Stitching – Continued

y. Stitches per inch on major portion of Running Shorts more than specified

X

z. Irregular seams required to be forced out and having a depth between the fold of 1/8 inch or more

X

aa. Any line of stitching omitted or misplaced X

bb. Seam allowance not as specified, raw edge adversely impacting appearance or serviceability X

cc. Topstitching not finishing as specified X

dd. Junction of seams not meeting within 1/4 inch X

Reflective Heat Transfer

a. Heat transfers applied incorrectly *

b. Heat transfers placement not as specified *

c. Heat transfers peeling *

Labels

a. Heat transfer label missing, incorrect, or illegible X

b. Heat transfer label applied incorrectly X

c. Heat transfer label placement not as specified X

d. Heat transfer label text peeling X

Pockets

a. Pockets not similar in shape X

b. Pockets out of alignment by more than 1/2 inch X

c. I.D. pocket not constructed or positioned correctly X

Waistband

a. Running Shorts twisted or pleated by stitching forming waistband

X

b. Distance between stitch lines on waistband less than 7/8 inch or more than 1-1/8 inches

X

Waistband

c. Waistband stitching varying more than 1/8 inch X

d. Waistband fullness not evenly distributed X

e. Waistband curling X

f. Drawstring missing or not functioning X

Running Shorts Legs

Hem uneven by more than 1/8 inch X

A

Minor B

Dimensions Measurement of item not as specified X

* Defects marked with an asterisk are major defects if they affect serviceability and minor defects if they do not affect serviceability.

1/ If the condition of the material defects or the workmanship damages is non-weakening and inconspicuous and has a negligible effect on serviceability, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall not be classified as defects. If the condition of the material defects or workmanship damages is definitely weakening and conspicuously located, the material defects or the workmanship damages shall be classified as specified herein.

2/ A break in a line of stitching or continuous skipped or run-off stitches (except on edge or top stitching) shall be classified as an open seam.

3/ A raw edge shall be classified as such when it occurs along an edge required to be turned under but the edge is securely caught in the stitching. If the edge is not securely caught in the stitching, it shall be classified as an open seam.

4/ Run-offs on joining seams, if resulting in an open seam, shall be classified as open seams.

5/ Puckering is evidence of tight tension. If puckering is evident, the seam shall be tested by exerting normal pull in the lengthwise direction of the seam or stitching. Tight tension shall be classified as an open seam.

4.4 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and

4. The inspection set forth in this document shall become part of the Contractor’s overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in this document shall not relieve the Contractor of the responsibility of assuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling in quality conformance does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material.

4.5 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by

DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The Running Shorts are intended to be worn by Military personnel of the Department of the Air Force and Space Force.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this purchase description.

b. Types, classes, sizes, and lengths required (see 1.2 and 1.3).

c. Quantity required.

d. When a first article sample is required (see 3.1).

e. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

f. Issue of individual documents referenced (see 2.2 and 2.3).

g. Conformance inspection and Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) (see 4.3).

6.3 Material sources. All the suggested material sources shall be provided for reference.

6.3.1 Reflective material source. A suggested source for reflective transfer material featuring 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material 8712N and 5721 glass-beaded reflective material is Safe Reflections Inc. 3220 Granada Ave. N, Saint Paul, MN USA 55128, (651) 748- 7955, www.SafeReflections.com (see 3.6.6). Table XI provides the related style numbers for each reflective type and placement.

6.3.2 Waistband material source. A suggested source for elastic waistband material is North East Knitting INC., 179 Conant St. Pawtucket, RI 02860, 1-800-765-2323, http://nekinc.com/ (see 3.6.4). Table XI provides the related style number for waistband.

6.3.3 Drawstring material source. A suggested source for drawstring material is Labeltex Mills INC., 6100 Wilmington Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90001, (213) 216-1784, http://labeltexusa.com (see 3.6.3). Table XI provides the related style number for drawstring.

http://nekinc.com/ http://labeltexusa.com/

Table XI. Sources.

Types Description Manufacturer Style Number

Type I Silver Front Right, Back Left Single Stripe Roll Reflective Heat Transfer

Safe Reflections RC-8712N06-20660-0000-CP4

Type I Silver Back Right Stripe Roll Reflective Heat Transfer

Safe Reflections RC-8712N06-20660-0000-CP4M

Type I Silver Air Force Logo Left Front Leg Safe Reflections HC-DCS8712N-20272-0000-CP4

Type II Silver Space Force Logo Left Front Leg Safe Reflections HC-DCS8712N-21008-0000-CP4

Type I and II 2” White Elastic Interior Waistband

North East Knitting INC 7734 pre-shrunk

Type I and II 10MM Flat Polyester Drawstring Labeltex SF-BLACKTAPE

6.4 Standard sample, artwork, and Government pattern. For access to standard shade samples, artwork and Government patterns, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal. Standard shade samples are also available at DLA Troop Support at https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx.

6.5 Subject term (key word) listing.

Running Short Physical Training

Uniform https://www.dla.mil/TroopSupport/ClothingandTextiles/SpecRequest.aspx

FIGURE 1. Running Shorts, Physical Training Gear, front view.

Type I Type II

FIGURE 2. Running Shorts, Physical Training Gear, side view.

FIGURE 3. Running Shorts, Physical Training Gear, back view.

FIGURE 4. Shorts liner, Physical Training Gear, front and back view.

FIGURE 5. Logos for front left leg heat transfer (see 6.4).

2-1/4 inches in width

2 inches in height

1-1/2 inches in width

2-1/4 inches in height

FIGURE 6. Segmented Stripe for front and back heat transfers.

5/8 inch in width

Type I

FIGURE 7. Running Shorts back label placement.

1-1/2 inches down from waistband

1 inch from the back seam

FIGURE 8. Label heat transfers (see 6.4).

Type I

Type II

2-2/5 inches

1-7/10 inches

2-2/5 inches

1-7/10 inches

FIGURE 9. Running Shorts, Physical Training Gear, How to Measure.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review activities:

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT