Fabric Spec-AllPurpShorts-Shell11-PD 20008A-4Feb2022_Final.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD 20008A

6 December 2021

SUPERSEDING

11-PD 20008

4 December 2020

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, INTERLOCK, ALL-PURPOSE SHORT SHELL, POLYESTER

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/WNU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

AMSC N/A FSC 8410

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to AFLCMC/WNU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-7605, or emailed to: aflcmc.wnv.workflow@us.af.mil.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This purchase description covers the requirements for an interlock knit cloth.

1.2 Classification. The interlock knit cloth are to be of the following classes, as specified (see 6.2):

1.2.1 Classes. The classes of the interlock knit cloth are as follows:

Class 1 - 100 percent polyester, Air Force Shade Blue 1673

Class 2 - 100 percent polyester, Space Force Shade Black 1681

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this purchase description or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements cited in sections 3 and 4 of this purchase description whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this purchase description to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-50199 Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester-Covered

(Copies of the above documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/)

LAWS AND REGULATIONS

15 U.S.C. 70 Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification

Act (Copies are available online at https://www.ftc.gov.)

2.3 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

https://quicksearch.dla.mil/ https://www.ftc.gov/

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

Technical Manual Test Methods

AATCC TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method AATCC TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.2 Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc AATCC TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative (DoD Adopted) AATCC TM20A Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM81 pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles AATCC TM100 Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of AATCC TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM197 Vertical Wicking of Textiles AATCC TM199 Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer Method

Technical Manual Evaluation Procedures

AATCC EP 1 Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP 2 Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC EP 9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles

(Copies of these technical manuals are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE/AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY

(ANSI/ASQ)

ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.ansi.org and https://www.asq.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D2594/

D2594M

Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power

ASTM D3512/

D3512M

ASTM D3776/

D3776M

Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3939/

D3939M

Standard Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics (Mace)

ASTM D3990 Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects https://www.aatcc.org/ http://www.ansi.org/ http://www.asq.org/ http://www.asq.org/

ASTM D4966 Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)

ASTM D6587 Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Using Automatic Tester ASTM D6797 Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test ASTM D8007 Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted

Fabrics (Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

OTHER PUBLICATIONS

Repeat Insult Patch Test - Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology, (fourth edition) A Wallace Hayes (editor), pp 1057 – 1060, 2001.

(Copies are available online at https://www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/ or from Taylor and

Francis, 325 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia PA 19106.)

2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.1.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials shall be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Material.

3.4.1 Yarn. The yarn shall be 75/72 micro denier semi dull textured multifilament polyester.

https://www.astm.org/

3.5 Color. The Class 1 color shall be Air Force Shade Blue 1673. The Class 2 color shall be Space Force Shade Black 1681. Both shades shall match their standard samples respectively.

3.5.1 Color matching. The color and appearance of the dyed and finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 7500 (±200) K with illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles and shall be a good match to the sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (±200) K.

3.5.2 Colorfastness. The dyed and finished cloth shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration, crocking, and laundering equal to or better than a rating of 4 when tested as specified in Table II.

3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the physical requirements listed in Table I as applicable, when tested as specified in Table II.

TABLE I. Physical properties.

Characteristic Requirements

Nominal Minimum Maximum Material Contents (Polyester) 100 -- -- Weight (oz. per sq. yd.) 4.95 4.70 5.20 Width (in.) 63 60 65 Wales (face side) (per in.) 50 48 52 Courses (face side) (per in.) 64 62 66 Yarn (denier/filaments) 75/72 -- -- Stretch (%) (5 lbs.)

Length 30 20 50 Width 75 50 100 Recovery (%) (after 1 hour) Length -- 90 1/ -- Width -- 90 1/ -- Dimensional Stability (%) (after 5 launderings)

Length -- -3.0 1.0 Width -- -1.5 1.0

TABLE I. Physical properties – Continued.

Characteristic Requirements

Nominal Minimum Maximum Wicking (inches at 15 minutes) Initial Length

5.0

Width After 5 launderings Length Width

5.0

3.5 3.5

Antimicrobial (after 25 launderings) (min) (%) 90 Pilling (60 minutes run)

After 5 launderings

4.5 4.5

Martindale abrasion (10,000 cycles) -- 4 -- Snagging -- 4 -- Burst strength (lbs.) -- 120 2/ -- Seam bursting strength (Ibs.)

Wale Course

Colorfastness Crocking (wet and dry) -- 4 -- Light (40 h. or 170 kJ) -- 4 -- Laundering (5 launderings) -- 4 -- Perspiration (acid & alkaline) -- 4 -- Drying time (minutes) 45 pH -- 5.5 8.5

1/ Measure to the nearest percent.

2/ Measure to the nearest pound.

3.7 Fabric construction. Interlock knit shall have nominal 50 wales and 64 courses per inch (face side stitches). The yarn should be 75/72 denier semi dull textured multifilament polyester.

3.8 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the width shall be in accordance with Table I and inclusive of selvages.

3.9 Finishing. The cloth shall be de-sized, scoured, heat set and given a durable soft hand, moisture wicking, and antimicrobial finish when tested as specified in Table II.

3.10 Dimensional stability to laundering. The finished cloth shall not shrink more than 3.0 percent, or stretch more than 1.0 percent in length direction and shall not shrink more than 1.5 percent, or stretch more than 1.0 percent in width direction after five launderings when tested as specified in Table II.

3.11 pH. The pH of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in Table II.

3.12 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibility with prolonged, direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.13 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous length each roll not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put-up full width on a roll as specified in 6.2.

3.14 Fiber identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with 15 U.S.C. 70, Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act.

3.14.1 Face identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping on that side with the word “FACE” on each end of the roll.

3.15 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in 4.3.1.1, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a metallic flag or a string measuring 1 to 1-1/2 inches long. The metallic flag shall be adhered to the selvage or the string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A metallic flag may represent a defect of any point value. A red string shall represent a three (3) or four (4)-point defect and a white string shall represent a one (1) or two (2)-point defect. As an alternative, a defect map is acceptable.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor may use facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the document when such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.1.1 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

4.1.2 Product conformance. The products provided shall meet the requirement characteristics of this purchase description and shall conform to the producer’s own standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance.

4.1.3 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced standards and publications unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this purchase description.

4.2 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests of this purchase description. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. The inspection and the AQL shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.3 Methods of inspection.

4.3.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in ASTM D3990, that are clearly noticeable at an inspection distance of 3 feet, shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.3.1.1.

No linear yard (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any one (1) roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four (4) points.

No more than one (1) roll shall be taken from any shipping container unless the number of shipping containers in the lot is less than the required number of rolls, in which case all shipping containers shall be present in the sample. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (rolls) 3200 or fewer 5

3201 up to and including 10,000 8 10,001 up to and including 35,000 13

The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined, exceed 10.0. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards, of two

(2) or more individual rolls, exceed 15.0. If one (1) roll exceeds 15.0 points per 100 square yards, a second sample shall be examined only for individual roll quality. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more rolls in the second sample exceed 15.0 points per 100 square yards. Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Total points scored in sample × 3600

Points per 100 square yards Contracted width of cloth (inches) x total yards inspected)

4.3.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

Defects in any dimension Points Up to 3 inches 1 Exceeding 3 inches, but not exceeding 6 inches 2 Exceeding 6 inches, but not exceeding 9 inches 3 Exceeding 9 inches 4

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur:

Bowed or bias filling exceeding 2 inch deviation from normal alignment.

Baggy, ridged or wavy cloth.

Objectionable odor.

Width less than specified.

Uneven knitting.

Tight selvage.

Tight end.

4.3.2 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested as specified in 4.4. The sample unit for testing shall be 5 continuous yards full width of after wicking finish cloth, put up in a manner to prevent folding and creasing or both. The lot shall be unacceptable if any sample unit fails to meet any requirement specified. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size in yards Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3 More than 22,001 5

4.4 Basic cloth test methods. The testing specified in Table II shall be followed.

Table II. Test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Material Contents (Polyester) 3.4.1 AATCC TM20/20A

Weight (oz. per sq. yd.) 3.6 ASTM D3776/D3776M Option C 1/

Color matching 3.5.1 Visual 2/ Width (in.) 3.8 Visual 1/ Wales (face side) (per in.) 3.7 ASTM D8007 1/ Courses (face side) (per in.) 3.7 ASTM D8007 1/ Yarn (denier/filaments) 3.4.1 ASTM D6587 1/ Stretch (%) (5 lbs.)

Length 3.6 ASTM D2594 3/ Width 3.6 ASTM D2594 3/ Recovery (%) (after 1 hour) Length 3.6 ASTM D2594 4/ Width 3.6 ASTM D2594 4/ Dimensional Stability (%) (after 5 launderings)

Length 3.10 AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii Width 3.10 AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii Wicking (initial and after 5 launderings) (inches at 15 minutes.)

Length 3.6 AATCC TM197, AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

Width 3.6 AATCC TM197, AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

Antimicrobial (after 25 launderings) 3.6 AATCC TM100 AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

Pilling (60 minutes)

After 5 launderings

3.6 3.6

ASTM D3512

AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii Martindale abrasion 3.6 ASTM D4966 5/ Burst strength (lbs.) 3.6 ASTM D6797 Seam bursting strength (Ibs.)

Wale Course

3.6 ASTM D6797 6/

Snagging 3.6 ASTM D3939 Colorfastness Crocking (wet and dry) 3.5.2 AATCC TM8 7/ Light (40 h. or 170 kJ) 3.5.2 AATCC TM16.2 or 16.3 8/, 9/ Laundering (5 launderings) 3.5.2 AATCC TM61, 2A 9/, 10/ Perspiration (acid & alkaline) 3.5.2 AATCC TM15 7/, 9/

Table II. Test methods – Continued.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Drying time (minutes) 3.6 AATCC TM199 pH 3.6 AATCC TM81

1/ The Contractor shall submit a Certificate of Compliance for these characteristics.

2/ The color and appearance of the cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered lamps simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 (±200) K illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 (±200) K, in accordance with AATCC EP 9, Option A.

3/ A tensile tester should be used to cycle the specimen from 0 pounds to 5 pounds with each cycle lasting 4 to 6 seconds. A total of ten cycles shall be performed, and the measurement shall be taken on the tenth cycle under 5 pounds force load.

4/ A specimen should be held for 1 hour (±5 minutes) at specified percent points in Table I of ASTM D2594 for form fitting fabrics. Measurement shall be taken after releasing the specimen from the apparatus used for testing as specified by ASTM D2594.

5/ Add the required weight to give a pressure on each specimen of 1.31 ±0.03 psi (9 ±0.2 kPa). Use Option 1. The end point is reached when there is a change in shade or appearance that is sufficient to cause a customer to complain.

6/ The polyester/cotton wrapped thread shall conform to Type I of A-A-50199. The thread shall be Tex 31-35, 2-ply for the needle and Tex 31-35 for the looper. The seam shall be LSc-2 with 12 SPI.

7/ Evaluated using AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

8/ The testing of one (1) sample is permitted.

9/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

10/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 2, Gray Scale for Staining. Include cotton, nylon, polyester, and acrylic.

4.4.1 Toxicity testing. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), an acute dermal irritation study and a skin sensitization study shall be conducted. When the results of these studies indicate the cloth is not a sensitizer or irritant, a Repeat Insult Patch Test shall be performed in accordance with the Modified Draize Procedure (see 2.3). If the toxicity requirement (see 3.12) can be demonstrated with historical use data, toxicity testing may not be required (see 6.2).

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of materiel is to be performed by DoD or in-house Contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the Military Service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD-ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this purchase description is intended for use as an interlock knit used in the manufacture of All-Purpose Short for the DoD.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specifications.

b. Color of cloth required (see 3.5).

c. Quantity required.

d. Minimum length, if other than specified (see 3.13).

e. Minimum width, if other than specified (see 3.8).

f. When a first article/pilot lot sample is required (see 3.1).

g. Packaging requirements (see section 5).

h. When toxicity testing is required (see 4.4.1)

6.3 Standard sample and purchase description. Requests for a shade sample should be addressed to: AFLCMC/WNUV TAC, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB OH, 45433.

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review activities:

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT