11 PD 25 001 CLOTH WOVEN PLAIN FLAME RESISTANT.pdf

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Flyer's Jackets Summer and Cold Weather, 36P and 45P
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SPE1C125R0100
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This document is a Defense Department Purchase Description for flame-resistant woven cloth, specifically detailing technical specifications for a specialized textile intended for military clothing. The cloth is designed for special flight, shipboard, and ground combat clothing, with two color options: Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705 and Air Force Shade Tan 1657. The material composition is precisely defined as 63% meta-aramid, 10% para-aramid, 16% flame-resistant rayon, 9% nylon, and 2% conductive fiber, with strict requirements for weight, width, tensile strength, flame resistance, and colorfastness.

Key technical specifications include a nominal weight of 6.50 oz per square yard, width of 61 inches, and specific testing standards from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and ASTM International. The cloth must meet rigorous performance criteria, such as maintaining flame resistance after multiple launderings, limiting after-flame and after-glow duration, preventing melt and drip, and maintaining dimensional stability. The document is prepared by the Air Force Life Cycle Management Center (AFLCMC) and is approved for use by all Department of Defense agencies, with potential application in manufacturing protective military clothing.

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INCH-POUND

11-PD-25-001

4 April 2025

PURCHASE DESCRIPTION

CLOTH, WOVEN, PLAIN, FLAME RESISTANT

This Purchase Description is approved for use by the Air Force and available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/ROU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

AFLCMC/ROU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, or emailed to:

AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.

AMSC N/A FSC 8305

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a flame resistant woven cloth.

1.2 Classification. The cloth shall be furnished in the following classes as specified (see 6.2).

1.2.1 Classes.

Class 1 – Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705 Class 2 – Air Force Shade Tan 1657

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM8 Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter AATCC TM15 Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC TM16.2 Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc AATCC TM16.3 Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc AATCC TM20 Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC TM20A Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC TM61 Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC TM76 Test Method for Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics AATCC TM81 Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed

Textiles AATCC TM97 Test Method for Extractable Content of Textiles AATCC TM132 Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC TM135 Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home

Laundering AATCC EP1 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP2 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC Gray Scale for Staining AATCC EP8 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale AATCC EP9 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC Visual Assessment of Color

Difference of Textiles (Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY/AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE

(ASQ/ANSI)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D737 Standard Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics ASTM D1424 Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by

Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus

ASTM D3512/

D3512M

Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester

ASTM D3775

Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics

ASTM D3776/

D3776M

Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric

ASTM D3990 Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

ASTM D5034

Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)

ASTM D6413/

D6413M

Standard Test Method for Flame Resistance of Textiles (Vertical Test)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspection.

3.1.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation (see 4.2). The sample yardage shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to quality conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4).

3.3 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.4 Material.

3.4.1 Fiber blend. The fiber blend shall consist of nominal 63 percent meta-aramid, 10 percent para-aramid, 16 percent FR rayon, 9 percent nylon, and 2 percent conductive fiber.

3.5 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705 for Class 1 and Air Force Shade Tan 1657 for Class 2 and shall match the standard sample.

3.5.1 Color matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using the AATCC EP9, Option C, with a primary light source simulating the spectral quality of average daylight, CIE illuminant D65, with a color temperature of 6500 Kelvin (K) (±200 K) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles (see 6.3). Alternatively, the color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample with a primary light source simulating artificial daylight, CIE illuminant D75, with a color temperature of 7500K (±200 K) illumination of 100 (±20) foot candles in lieu of D65 (see 6.3). The finished cloth shall also be a good match to the standard sample with a secondary source simulating the spectral quality of incandescent lamplight, CIE illuminant A, with a color temperature of 2856K (±200 K).

3.5.2 Colorfastness. The dyed and finished cloth shall show colorfastness to perspiration, dry crocking, and after one (1) laundering equal to or better than a rating of 4, to wet crocking and light equal to or better than a rating of 3.5, and to light after five (5) launderings equal to or better than rating of 3.0 when tested as specified in Table II.

3.6 Physical requirements. The physical requirements of the finished cloth shall be as specified in Table I when tested as specified in Table II.

TABLE I. Physical requirements.

Characteristic Requirements

Nominal Minimum Maximum Material contents

Meta-aramid 63 61 65 1/ Para-aramid 10 9 11 Flame resistant rayon 16 14 18 Nylon 9 7 11 Conductive fiber 2 1 3

Weight (oz. per sq.yd.) 6.50 6.20 6.85 Width (in.) 61 58 65 Ends (per in.) 52 49 55 Picks (per in.) 51 48 54 Tensile strength (lbs.)

Warp -- 180 -- Filling -- 160 --

Tear strength (lbs.)

Warp -- 8 -- Filling -- 7 --

TABLE I. Physical requirements – Continued.

Characteristic Requirements

Nominal Minimum Maximum Flame resistance (warp x filling) (max.):

After flame (seconds) Initial -- -- 2 After 5 launderings -- -- 2

After glow (seconds) Initial -- -- 5 After 5 launderings -- -- 5

Char length (inches) Initial -- -- 4-1/4 After 5 launderings -- -- 4-1/4

Melt and drip, break open -- -- No melt or drip, no break open

Dimensional stability (%) (after 5 launderings) Length -2.5 -5.0 5.0 Width -2.5 -5.0 5.0

Pilling (30 minutes run) Initial 3.5 3.0 -- After 5 launderings 3.5 3.0 --

Colorfastness -- -- -- Crocking -- -- --

Wet -- 3.5 -- Dry -- 4 --

Light (40 h. or 170 kJ) -- -- -- Initial -- 3.5 -- After 5 launderings -- 3.0 --

Laundering -- 4 -- Perspiration -- 4 --

Static resistivity (ohms per square) After 5 launderings -- -- 4.0 × 1012

After 3 dry cleanings -- -- 4.0 × 1012

Air permeability (cfm/ft2) 18 12 35 Nonfibrous material (%) -- -- 1.5 pH -- 5.5 8.0

1/ Blended material contents shall equate to 100 percent.

3.7 Fabric construction. Flame resistant woven cloth shall have a plain weave.

3.8 Width. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the width shall be in accordance with Table I and inclusive of selvages.

3.9 Flame resistance. The fabric shall pass after flame at no more than 2 seconds, after glow at no more than 5 seconds, char length at no more than 4-1/4 inches, and no melt, no drip, no break open as specified in Table I and as tested in Table II.

3.10 Static resistivity. The maximum static resistivity of any one sample shall be less than 4.0 × 1012 ohms per square after five (5) launderings and three (3) dry cleanings listed in Table I and tested in Table II.

3.11 Finish. The cloth shall be heat set and shrinkage resistant. The cloth shall meet requirements specified in Table I and tested in Table II.

3.12 Non-fibrous material. The hexane-soluble and water-soluble material of the cloth shall not exceed 1.5 percent specified in Table I and tested in Table II.

3.13 pH. The pH value of the water extract shall not be less than 5.5 nor more than 8.0 as specified in Table I and as tested in Table II.

3.14 Dimensional stability. The cloth shall not shrink more than 5.0 percent in length and width direction nor extend more than 5.0 percent in length and width direction after five (5) launderings specified in Table I and tested in Table II.

3.15 Length and put-up. For Government procurement only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the finished cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards. Occasionally, a minimum length of 10 yards with maximum three (3) pieces per roll is allowed. The cloth shall be put-up full width in a roll in accordance with industry standard and practices.

3.16 Face identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping the word “FACE” on that side of the cloth at each end of the roll.

3.17 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a health hazard. Chemicals recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency as human carcinogens shall not be used.

3.18 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in 4.3.1.1, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a metallic flag or a string measuring 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches long. The metallic flag shall be adhered to the selvage, or the string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A metallic flag may represent a defect of any point value. A red string shall represent a three (3)- or four (4)-point defect and a white string shall represent a one (1)- or two (2)-point defect. As an alternative, a defect map is acceptable.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article/pilot lot inspection (see 4.2).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1. The sample yardage shall be as specified and inspected for appearance, shade, and finish defects when tested as specified in 4.6 and 4.7. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test shall be cause for rejection of the pilot lot.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this specification. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The inspection and the Acceptable Quality Limits shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.4 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the Contractor may use facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the document when such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements.

4.5 Certificate of compliance. When certificates of compliance are submitted, they shall contain verifiable actual test and inspection data. The Government reserves the right to inspect and test the material or components to verify the validity of the certification.

4.6 Inspection methods.

4.6.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in ASTM D3990, clearly noticeable at an inspection distance of 3 feet, shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.6.1.1. No linear yard (increments of one [1] yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any roll within the sample shall be penalized more than four (4) points. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size (yards) Sample size (rolls) 1/

3200 or fewer 5 3201 up to and including 10,000 8 10,001 up to and including 35,000 13

1/ No more than one (1) roll shall be taken from any shipping container unless the number of shipping containers in the lot is less than the required number of rolls, in which case all shipping containers shall be present in the sample.

The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined, exceed 13. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points, per 100 square yards, of two

(2) or more individual rolls, exceed 18. If one (1) roll exceeds 18 points per 100 square yards, a second sample shall be examined only for individual roll quality. The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more rolls in the second sample exceed 18 points per 100 square yards.

Point computation for lot quality and individual roll quality shall be as follows:

Total points scored in sample x 3600 = Points per 100 square yards

Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected

4.6.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows:

Defects in any dimension Points Up to 3 inches 1 Exceeding 3 inches, but not exceeding 6 inches 2 Exceeding 6 inches, but not exceeding 9 inches 3 Exceeding 9 inches 4

The following defects, when present, shall be scored four (4) points for each yard in which they occur:

Defects Bowed or bias filling exceeding 2 inches deviation from normal alignment Baggy, ridged, or wavy cloth Objectionable odor Width less than specified Tight selvage Tight yarn

4.6.2 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested as specified in 4.7. The sample unit for testing shall be five (5) continuous yards full width of finished cloth, put up in a manner to prevent folding and creasing or both. The lot shall be unacceptable if any sample unit fails to meet any requirement specified. All test reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results.

The sample size shall be in accordance with the following:

Lot size in yards Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2

801 up to and including 22,000 3 More than 22,001 5

4.7 Test methods. The testing specified in Table II shall be followed.

[This space intentionally left blank.]

TABLE II. Test methods.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Material contents

3.4.1 AATCC TM20 or AATCC TM20A 1/

Meta-aramid Para-aramid Flame resistant rayon Nylon Conductive fiber

Weight (oz./sq.yd.) 3.6 ASTM D3776/D3776M Option C 1/ Color matching 3.5.1 AATCC EP9 Width 3.8 Visual 1/ Ends (per in.) 3.6 ASTM D3775 1/ Picks (per in.) 3.6 ASTM D3775 1/ Tensile strength (lbs.)

3.6 ASTM D5034 Warp

Filling

Tear Strength

3.6 ASTM D1424 Warp

Filling Flame resistance (warp and filling) (max.):

3.9

After flame (seconds)

Initial ASTM D6413/D6413M After 5 laundering AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

After glow (seconds) Initial ASTM D6413/D6413M After 5 launderings AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

Char length (in.)

Initial ASTM D6413/D6413M After 5 launderings AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

Melt and drip ASTM D6413/D6413M Dimensional stability (%) (after 5 launderings) 3.14 AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii Length

Width Pilling (30 min.)

3.6

Initial ASTM D3512/D3512M After 5 launderings AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii

Colorfastness

3.5.2

Crocking (wet and dry) AATCC TM8 2/, 5/ Light (40 H. or 170 kJ)

Initial AATCC TM16.3, Option 3 or AATCC TM16.2, Option 3 3/,4/

After 5 launderings AATCC TM61, 3A 3/,4/ Laundering AATCC TM61, 2A 4/, 5/ Perspiration AATCC TM15 4/, 5/

TABLE II. Test methods – Continued.

Characteristic Requirement Paragraph Test Method

Static resistivity (ohms per square) 3.10

AATCC TM76

After 5 launderings AATCC TM135 (3), (V), (A)iii After 3 dry cleanings AATCC TM132 6/

Air permeability (cfm/ft2) 3.6 ASTM D737 Nonfibrous material (%) 3.12 AATCC TM97 pH 3.13 AATCC TM81

1/ The Contractor shall submit a Certificate of Compliance for these characteristics.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

3/ The testing of one (1) sample is permitted.

4/ Evaluate using AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

5/ Evaluate using AATCC EP2, Gray Scale for Staining. Include cotton, nylon, polyester, and acrylic.

6/ As an alternative, an environment-friendly cleaning agent other than perchloroethylene is allowed.

5. PACKAGING

5.1 Packaging. For acquisition purposes, the packaging requirements shall be as specified in the contract or order (see 6.2). When packaging of material is to be performed by DoD or in-house contractor personnel, these personnel need to contact the responsible packaging activity to ascertain packaging requirements. Packaging requirements are maintained by the Inventory Control Point’s packaging activities within the Military Service or Defense Agency or within the military service’s system commands. Packaging data retrieval is available from the managing Military Department’s or Defense Agency’s automated packaging files, CD- ROM products, or by contacting the responsible packaging activity.

6. NOTES

(This section contains information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful but is not mandatory.)

6.1 Intended use. The cloth covered by this specification is intended for use in the manufacture of special flight, shipboard, and ground combat clothing.

6.2 Acquisition requirements. Acquisition documents must specify the following:

a. Title, number, and date of this specification.

b. Color of cloth required (see 3.5).

c. Quantity required.

d. Minimum length, if other than specified (see 3.15).

e. Minimum width, if other than specified (see 3.8).

f. Packaging requirements (see 5.1).

6.3 Adoption of D65. In 2022, the U.S. Military (all Services) accepted D65 as the new preferred light source for visual shade matching due to the supply chain issues with D75.

6.4 Standard sample. For access to shade samples, address the contracting activity issuing the invitation for bids or request for proposal.

[This space intentionally left blank.]

Custodian: Preparing activity:

Air Force – 11 Air Force – 11

Review Activity

Air Force – 11

DLA – CT

File details come from the government source that posted it. Updated .