11-PD-25-012 FLYERS JACKET SUMMER WEATHER.pdf

INCH-POUND

11-PD-25-012

4 April 2025

SUPERSEDING

MIL-J-83382C

30 October 1981

MILITARY SPECIFICATION

JACKET, FLYER’S, SUMMER WEATHER

This specification is approved for use by the Air Force and available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense.

Prepared by

AFLCMC/ROU

1981 Monahan Way Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7017

Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to:

AFLCMC/ROU, 1901 10th St., Bldg. 63, Wright-Patterson AFB, OH 45433-7605, or emailed to:

AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC.AF.UniformOffice@us.af.mil.

DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Approved for public release. Distribution is unlimited.

AMSC N/A

FSC 8415

1. SCOPE

1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for Jacket, Flyer’s, Men’s, Summer Weather, CWU-36/P to be worn by United States Air Force (USAF) personnel.

1.2 Classification. The Flyer’s Jacket, Summer Weather shall be furnished in one (1) of the following classes, as specified (see 6.2):

Class 1 – Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705

Class 2 – Air Force Shade Tan 1657

1.3 Schedule of sizes. The jacket shall be furnished in the following sizes:

Schedule of sizes.

SMALL 34 – 36

MEDIUM 38 – 40

LARGE 42 – 44

X-LARGE 46 – 48

XX-LARGE 50 – 52

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed.

2.2 Government documents.

2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract.

COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTIONS

A-A-52085 Cloth, Drill, Cotton A-A-52094 Thread, Cotton A-A-55126 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic A-A-55195 Thread, Para-Aramid, Intermediate Modules A-A-55634 Zippers (Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking)

DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE (DoD) SPECIFICATIONS

MIL-C-3735 Cuffs, Knit, Wrist and Ankle, and Cloth, Knitted MIL-C-83242 Cord, Aromatic Polyamide, Nonmelting MIL-DTL-32075 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use)

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://quicksearch.dla.mil/.)

2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

PURCHASE DESCRIPTIONS

11-PD-25-001 Cloth, Woven, Plain, Flame Resistant

(Copies should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.)

2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2).

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC)

AATCC TM132 Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC TM143 Test Method for Appearance of Apparel and Textile

Products after Laundering AATCC TM158 Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in

Perchloroethylene AATCC EP1 Evaluation Procedure for Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC EP8 Evaluation Procedure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic

Transference Scale AATCC EP9 Evaluation Procedure for Visual Assessment of Color

Difference of Textile

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.aatcc.org.)

AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY/AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE

(ASQ/ANSI)

ASQ/ANSI Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

(Copies of this document are available online at https://www.asq.org or https://www.ansi.org.)

ASTM INTERNATIONAL

ASTM D6193 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

(Copies of these documents are available online at https://www.astm.org.)

2.4 Order of precedence. Unless otherwise noted herein or in the contract, in the event of a conflict between the text of this document, and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Inspection.

3.1.1 First article/pilot lot inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article/pilot lot inspection in accordance with the contract or solicitation (see 4.2). The sample size shall be specified in the procurement document.

3.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to quality conformance inspection in accordance with 4.3.

3.2 Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials. Recycled, recovered, environmentally preferable, or bio-based materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs.

3.3 Design. The jacket shall have a straight center front opening with a slide fastener closure. The jacket shall have a utility and pencil pocket on the left sleeve and two (2) front (patch) pockets that have envelope storm flaps. The utility pocket shall have a slide fastener closure. Closure of the flaps of the front pockets shall be attached with hook and loop fastener tape. The jacket shall have an outer shell, knitted wristlets, and a knitted waistband (see Figures 1 through 7).

3.4 Figures. Figures 1 through 7 are furnished for information purposes only. Figure 1 shows front view of jacket. Figure 2 shows back view of jacket. Figure 3 shows lower patch pocket detail. Figure 4 shows bellow utility and pencil pocket detail. Figure 5 shows jacket – open view, liner, center front detail. Figure 6 shows jacket, details. Figure 7 shows jacket bartack location detail. When inconsistencies exist between the written document and the figures, the written document shall govern.

3.5 Material.

3.5.1 Basic material. The basic material for the outer shell, lining, hanger, and zipper thong shall conform to Purchase Description 11-PD-25-001. The color shall be Air Force Shade Sage Green 1705 (Class 1) and Air Force Shade Tan 1657 (Class 2) (see 6.2).

3.6 Components.

3.6.1 Interlining. The material for the collar lining shall conform to A-A-52085, Type I, Class 2. The steam heat shrinkage shall be less than 2 percent when tested as specified in Table VIII.

3.6.2 Thread. Unless otherwise specified herein, the thread for all sewing operations shall conform to A-A-55195, Type I, Tex 39. In addition, the colorfastness to drycleaning shall be no less than 3.5 as tested in Table VIII. As an option, cotton thread may be used for attaching and topstitching the knitted cloth. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, Type I, Tex 30, 2- or 3-ply, and shall match the color of the basic material.

3.6.3 Slide fasteners (zippers). The slide fasteners shall conform to the requirements of A-A-55634 and of Table I of this specification. The chain and any other metal components, except the latch and spring of the automatic slider of the slide fastener, shall be brass with a black chemical finish. The slide fastener tapes shall be a high temperature resistant polyamide and shall be a good match to the color of the basic fabric. The slider on the slide fastener for the front opening shall have a long pull tab with a 1/2 inch wide thong fabricated from the basic fabric. The sliders on the slide fasteners for the utility and pencil pocket shall have short pull tabs. As an alternative, a pull tab without a hole may be used.

TABLE I. Slide fasteners.

Application Specification

Length (inches) Type Style Size(s)

Utility / Pencil Pocket I 4 5-7 4-3/4

Size Small Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 21-1/2

Size Medium Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 22

Size Large Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 22-1/2

Size X-Large Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 23

Size XX-Large Jacket Front Opening

III 8 8 23-1/2

3.6.4 Wristlets and waistband. The wristlets shall conform to MIL-C-3735, Type IV, Class 2, Size 2. The material for the waistband shall be the width specified in Table II and shall conform to MIL-C-3735, Type IV, Class 3. The wristlets and the material for the waistband shall be a good match to the outer shell.

TABLE II. Width of waistband material.

Jacket size Width in direction of courses of material (inches)

SMALL 24 (±1/2)

MEDIUM 25 (±1/2)

LARGE 26 (±1/2)

X-LARGE 27 (±1/2)

XX-LARGE 28 (±1/2)

3.6.5 Hook and loop fastener tape. Except for the fastener tape for the nameplate, the fastener tape shall be 1 inch wide. The fastener tape for the nameplate shall be 2 inches wide.

The fastener tape shall conform to A-A-55126, Type II, Class 1. The color of the fastener tape shall be a good match to the basic fabric.

3.6.6 Cord beading. The material for the cord beading in the edges of the slide fastener covers shall conform to MIL-C-83242, Type I.

3.7 Labels. The jacket shall have a combination label (size, identification, and care instruction).

3.7.1 Combination of size, identification, and care instruction label. The combination of the size, identification and care instruction label for the jacket shall conform to MIL-DTL-32075, Type VI, Class 14.

The contents of the combination of size, identification, and care instruction label shall be as follows for the jacket:

SIZE

JACKET, FLYER’S, SUMMER WEATHER 36/P

(CONTRACTOR NAME)

SHELL: 63% META-ARAMID,16% FR RAYON, 9% NYLON,

10% PARA-ARAMID, 2% CONDUCTIVE FIBER

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

This jacket is made of flame resistant material. No other special flame resistant treatment is required.

Dry clean only

Do not starch

Ironing or pressing is not necessary

DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL

MADE IN THE USA

3.8 Patterns. The Government will furnish standard patterns which show directional lines, size, pocket placement, and notches for the proper assembling unless otherwise specified (see 6.3). The standard patterns shall be used as a guide in cutting the manufacturer’s working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns except the additional notching to facilitate manufacture is permissible. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary to accommodate manufacturer’s processes and the use of automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the serviceability, dimensional requirements, or appearance. The patterns provide seam allowances as specified in Table III.

TABLE III. Seam allowances.

Seam allowance (inches) Pattern

1/4 Collar, collar stand where it attaches to collars, pocket flap, corners of utility pocket

3/8 Neckline, collar stand at neck seam, pen pocket, pocket cover, on all other sides of utility pocket other than zipper edge.

1/2 All armholes, sleeve seams, hem, shoulder seams 3/4 Zipper edge on utility pocket 7/8 Center front

3.8.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the jacket shall be cut from the materials as specified in accordance with pattern parts and quantity indicated in Table IV.

[This space intentionally left blank.]

TABLE IV. List of pattern parts.

Material Pattern Nomenclature CAD Pattern Names Cut Parts Basic material (see 3.5.1)

Front FRONT 2 Back BACK 1

Top sleeve TSLV 2 Undersleeve USLV 2 Utility pocket SLEEVEPKT 1 Pocket flap PKT_FLAP 4

Waistband extension facing WB_EXT 2 Pencil pocket PEN_PKT 1 Patch pocket PKT 2

Topcollar TCOL 1 Undercollar UCOL 1

Utility pocket cover PKT_CVR 1 Hanger HANGER 1 Pull tab PULL_TAB 1

Top collar stand TCOL_STD 1 Undercollar stand UCOL_STD 1

Front lining FRONT_LIN 2 Back lining BACK_LIN 1

Top sleeve lining TSLV_LIN 2 Under sleeve lining USLV_LIN 2

Interlining (see 3.6.1)

Collar CLR_INT 1 Collarstand CLR_STD_INT 1

3.9 Construction. The jacket shall be constructed as specified in Table VI; however, the manufacturer is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed, as long as the resultant jacket is exactly the same as the jacket made following the specified sequence. The stitches per inch specified in Table VI shall be interpreted to be the minimum and the maximum stitches per inch.

3.9.1 Stitches and seams. Stitches and seams, as specified in Table VI, shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance, and shall conform to ASTM D6193. Where two (2) or more seams or stitch types are specified for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch Type 401 is used, the looper thread shall be on the inside of the jacket. Seam allowances shall be maintained with the seams sewn so no raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams shall occur. All seams shall start and finish evenly.

Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no tight or loose stitching. Edge stitching and topstitching shall be uniformly gauged throughout the jacket. The depth between the fold of seams required to be worked out shall be less than 1/16 inch. The guides and the knives on for the overedge machines shall be set to trim only the raveled edges of the fabric and shall not exceed 1/16 inch.

3.9.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching.

Ends of continuous line stitching shall be overlapped no less than 1/2 inch except on labels where a minimum of three (3) stitch overlap is required. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. The lockstitch shall be imbedded to the materials sewn.

3.9.1.1.1 Repairs of Type 301 stitching. Repairs shall be as follows:

a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-offs, or bobbin run-outs occur during stitching, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of the stitching.

b. Thread breaks or two (2) or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item (in-process or end item) shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/2 inch in back of the defective area and continue over the defective area a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials and restitching in the required manner. 1/

1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. The loose ends shall be trimmed by scissors.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the loose ends is not permitted.

3.9.1.2 Types 401, 515, 516, 517, and 518 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so there shall be no loose stitching. Where Type 401 stitch is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the finished garment. All repairs shall be in accordance with 3.9.1.1.1 a.

and b., except substitute 3/4 inch for 1/2 inch wherever 1/2 inch appears. Repairs to stitch Type 401 may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.

3.9.1.3 Thread ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.

CAUTION: Pulling or breaking the thread ends is not permitted.

3.9.2 Bartacks. All bartacks shall measure as specified in Table V. Stitches per bartack shall be counted as visible needle punches, i.e., zigzags, where straight stitches running underneath, the zigzags do not count. Bartacking shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching. Bartacks shall be required at the specified reinforcement points as shown in Table V and Figure 7.

TABLE V. Placement of bartacks.

Bartack location Size of bartack (inch)

Stitches per bartack

No. of bartacks per location

Total no.

of bartacks Ends of zipper opening on utility pocket 1/2 28 2 2 Ends of pencil pocket opening on utility pocket

1/2 28 6 6

Ends of hanger loop 1/2 28 2 2

Top, middle, and bottom of pull tab 1/2 28 3 3

Base of zipper superimposed on stitching 1/2 28 2 2

3.9.3 Automatic stitching. Automatic machines may be used to perform any of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size and type of thread are met. At least three (3) overlapping or backstitches shall be used to secure the ends of the stitching.

3.9.4 Corded beading in slide fastener covers. The edges of the slide fastener covers shall have a cord beading. The outer beaded cloth edges of the slide fastener closures shall be flush with the slide fastener scoops. The scoops, when locked together, shall be completely concealed by the beaded covers.

3.9.5 Cutting. Unless otherwise specified herein, the parts of the jacket shall be cut in accordance with the patterns specified in 3.8 and from the materials and in the quantity specified in Table IV.

3.9.6 Appearance of seams. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished jacket shall be 4.0 or greater. Puckered seams shall be examined in accordance with AATCC TM143 when evaluated against AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas.

Puckering on a major portion of a seam worse than a rating of 4.0 shall be scored as a puckered seam.

3.10 Manufacturing operation requirements. The jacket shall be manufactured in accordance with the manufacturing operation requirements specified in Table VI. Automated apparel equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table VI, providing the seam and stitch type are as specified and the finished component conforms to the required configuration. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automated equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification.

3.10.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the jacket shall be marked, ticketed, or bundled to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout each jacket. Any method may be used except:

a. Corrosive metal fastening devices.

b. Sew-on type tickets.

c. Adhesive type tickets which leave an impression or traces of paper adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets.

d. Any marking medium that would tend to leave a permanent mark.

The use of an ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil shall be acceptable, provided the numbers do not show through the outside of the jacket and the numbers are covered by the seam allowance.

3.10.2 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table VI are as follows:

brtck - Bartack

TABLE VI. Table of operations.

No. Description of operation Stitch type Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

1. Cut parts.

a. Lay the cloth in uniform lengths, taking care to spread the material so the plies shall not be stretched or full, and so one (1) side of the lay shall be even. Lay the patterns in accordance with the directional lines (warp direction) indicated on the patterns.

b. Cut the parts of the jacket in strict accordance with the patterns.

Unless otherwise specified herein, cut all parts of the basic material from one (1) piece of material. The hanger and undercollar may be cut from ends of the basic fabric, provided the parts are a good match to the shade of the parts cut from the basic material.

c. Except for the sleeve linings, all parts of the lining shall be cut from one (1) piece of material. The sleeve linings shall be cut from ends but shall match each other. The lining shall be cut so the exposed side of the lining shall be a good match.

2. Mark parts.

Mark, ticket, or bundle all parts of the basic material and the lining, except parts cut from ends, to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the jacket. The marking may be any method except adhesive-type tickets that leave traces of paper or adhesive on the material after the tickets are removed, or metal fastening devices.

3. Replace damaged or defective parts.

Take care during the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing operations to exclude or replace any material containing material defects (see Table X) or workmanship damages that could affect the appearance of the jacket.

4. Make two (2) front pockets.

a. Position the pocket lining to the face side of the pocket outer shell, between the notches at the top, with the raw edges even. Join with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the top raw edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Join one (1) piece of the hook fastener tape, 1 inch by 2 inches, to the outer side of each pocket at the marked location, with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge on all four (4) sides.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

c. Turn the lining to the inside of the pocket along fold line and join with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge and raise stitch with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the pocket top folded edge.

301 SSl-1 and Osf-1

10-12

d. Join one (1) piece of loop fastener tape, 1 inch by 2 inches, to the inside of each flap at the marked location with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge on all four (4) sides.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

e. Join each flap at the ends, the bottom, and the slanted sides with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge, with the face sides together.

301 SSe-3(a) 10-12

TABLE VI. Table of operations – Continued.

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

4. Make two (2) front pockets – Continued.

f. Turn and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge 1/4 inch gauge.

301 SSe-3(b) 10-12

g. Join each pocket flap to the front at the marked location, with the bottom of pocket flaps facing downward, stitching along “turn under” line marked on pocket flap pattern, with a single row of stitching.

301 LSbl-2(a) 10-12

h. Fold each pocket flap upward and stitch along the stitch line marked on pattern with a single row of stitching.

301 LSbl-1(b) 10-12

i. Turn the pocket raw edges under 1/2 inch at the sides and the bottom, catching the pocket lining. Join with a double row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edges 1/4 inch gauge, inching the stitching up to the pocket flaps.

301 LSd-2 10-12

j. Fold the top slanted raw edge of each pocket to the inside 1/2 inch and join to the pocket flap across the ends with a double row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge, 1/4 inch gauge.

301 SSa-2 10-12

k. Fold each pocket flap down and raise with a single row of stitching 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

5. Join fastener tape for nameplate.

a. Position a 2 inches by 4 inches piece of loop fastener tape for the nameplate above the left front pocket at the pattern marks; join on all four (4) sides with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

b. Affix a 2 inches by 4 inches piece of hook fastener tape to the loop fastener tape for use as a mounting for the wearer’s nameplate.

6. Make and attach utility and pencil pockets.

The utility and pencil pockets shall have a bellow-style utility compartment with a covered vertical slide fastener closure on the forward side, the full length of the pocket and four (4) pencil component openings – two (2) upper and two (2) lower.

a. Hem the top opening of the pencil compartment, in accordance with the notches, with a double row of stitching, with the first row of stitching 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the top edge, 1/4 inch gauge.

301 EFa-2 10-12

b. Fold the pencil compartment at the lower notches to form the two

(2) lower openings and sew with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch gauge, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the folded edge.

301 OSf-2 10-12

c. Fold the opening to the center notch, tacking each side edge with a single row of stitching.

301 SSa-1 10-12

d. Slit the fold at the bottom and through the center to make the pencil pass-through.

NOTE: The front and the rear openings of the pencil compartment shall be 7/8 inch (±1/8 inch) wide.

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

6. Make and attach utility and pencil pockets – Continued.

e. Join the pencil compartment to the utility compartment with a double row of stitching 1/4 inch gauge 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge along both sides, in accordance with the notches, and with the bottom edges even.

301 LSd-2 10-12

f. Place a single row of stitching centered between the front and the back edge of the entire length of the pencil compartment to separate the openings.

301 SSa-1 10-12

g. Bartack the ends of all pencil compartment openings with the bartack superimposed on the inner row of double stitching and on the center row of stitching.

brtck 28 per brtck

NOTE: The bartack shall be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long.

h. Fold the forward side of the utility compartment and the slide fastener tape cover. Insert the cord in the fold and stitch close to the cord with a single row of stitching.

301 EFa-1 10-12

i. Form a 3/4 inch bellow by joining the two (2) bottom corners with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the end.

301 SSa-1 10-12

j. Sew the slide fastener tape to the forward side of the utility and pencil pocket with a double row of stitching 1/8 to 1/4 inch gauge, 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops with the beaded edge covering the scoops.

301 LSb-2 10-12

k. Position the slide fastener cover on the opposite slide fastener tape, with the beaded edge covering the scoops, and join with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge of the scoops.

301 SSa-1 10-12

l. Position the utility and pencil pocket on the left sleeve according to the pattern. Turn the raw edges under 3/8 inch and sew with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSd-1 10-12

m. Place a second row of stitching 1/4 inch from the front edge and across the top of the utility and pencil pocket.

301 SSv-1 10-12

n. Bartack across each end of the slide fastener on the inner row of stitching with a 1/2 inch wide bartack.

brtck 28 per brtck

NOTE: The finished pocket shall be 5-3/4 inches (±1/4 inch) long by 4 inches (±1/4 inch) wide, including the slide fastener tape and cover.

The width measurement shall be taken across the top of the pocket.

The top of the pencil pocket shall finish approximately 3/8 inch from top of the finished utility pocket. The slide fastener shall close with the slide at the top of the pocket.

7. Make sleeves.

a. Join each elbow seam with a safety stitch, 1/2 inch gauge. 515, 516, 517, or

SSa-2 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

7. Make sleeves – Continued.

b. Turn and raise stitch, with the topsleeve overlapping the undersleeve, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

OR

c. As an alternative to operations 7a. and 7b., with the top sleeve overlapping the under sleeve, join each elbow seam of the sleeve with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam, 3/16 to 5/16 inch gauge.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

8. Join shoulders.

a. Join each front to the back, at the shoulders, with a 1/2 inch gauge safety stitch.

515, 516, 517, or

SSa-2 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch, with the back overlapping the fronts, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

OR

c. As an alternative to operations 8a. and 8b., with the back overlapping the front, join each front to the back at the shoulder with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam, 3/16 to 5/16 inch gauge.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

9. Attach sleeves.

a. Join the sleeves to the armholes, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch on the fronts and the backs, from the elbow seam to the front armhole notch, or approximately 3 inches from the shoulder seam, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge. Alignment of sleeve seams shall not be staggered by more than 1/4 inch.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

10. Join side seams and sleeve inseams.

a. Join each side seam to sleeve inseam, from the sleeve terminals to the bottom of the fronts, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch on each front with the front overlapping the back at the side seams, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

OR

c. As an alternative to operations 10a. and 10b., with the front overlapping the back join side seams and sleeve inseams with a double-lapped, double-stitched seam 3/16 to 5/16 inch gauge.

301 or

LSc-2 10-12

No. Description of Operation Stitch type Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

11. Make collar.

a. Quilt the undercollar leaf to the interlining with a series of diagonal stitching. The points of the diagonal stitching shall terminate at the edge of the collar, and the points of the stitching shall be approximately 3 inches apart at the top edge and 2-3/4 inches apart at the bottom edge of the collar.

301 SSv-1 10-12

OR

b. As an alternative to Operation 11a., the undercollar may be to the interlining with six (6) rows of evenly spaced stitching.

401 SSv-1 10-12

c. Quilt the undercollar stand to the interlining with five (5) or six (6) rows of horizontal stitching, approximately 1/4 inch apart, centered in the stand.

301 or

SSv-5 10-12

d. Join the undercollar stand to the undercollar, and the topcollar stand to the topcollar, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 or

LSq-2(a) 10-12

e. Turn and raise stitch, with the stand overlapping the collar, with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edges.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

f. Join the topcollar to the undercollar with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSe-2(a) 10-12

g. Turn; force out the edges.

12. Make hanger.

Make the hanger of the basic material. 301 EFp-2 10-12

NOTE: The finished hanger shall be 1/2 inch (±1/8 inch) wide by 3-1/2 inches (±1/4 inch) long. The stitching shall be 1/16 inch from each folded edge.

13. Join shoulders of lining.

a. Join the fronts to the backs, at the shoulders of the lining, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

b. Open the seam joining the shoulders of the lining and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from each folded edge.

301 or

SSz-2 10-12

OR

Joining may be performed on a safety stitch machine which stitches and overlocks in one (1) operation. When safety stitch is used, the seam shall be positioned toward the back of the jacket and raise stitched 1/4 inch from the folded edge.

515, 516, 517, or

301 or

SSa-2, LSbm-3, or

LSbm-4

10-12

14. Join sleeves of lining.

a. Join each topsleeve at the elbow seam of the lining with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

No. Description of Operation Stitch type Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

14. Join sleeves of lining – Continued.

b. Open the seam, joining the topsleeve to the undersleeve at the elbow of the lining, and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from each folded edge.

301 or

SSz-2 10-12

OR

Joining may be performed on a safety stitch machine which stitches and overlocks in one (1) operation.

515, 516, 517, or

301 or

SSa-2

LSbm-3

15. Join side seams of lining.

a. Join each side seam of the lining, from the sleeve terminal to the bottom edge, with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

OR

Joining maybe be performed on a safety stitch machine which stitches and overlocks in one (1) operation.

515, 516, 517, or

SSa-2 10-12

b. Open the side seams and raise stitch with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from each edge.

301 or

SSz-2 10-12

c. Join each sleeve to the armhole of the lining with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 or

SSa-1 10-12

d. Open the seam and raise stitch, with a double row of stitching 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSz-2 10-12

NOTE: Operations 15b. and 15d. may be performed as one (1) operation.

16. Prepare waistband.

a. Sew the outer shell extension facing pieces to each end of the knitted waistband with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Turn and raise stitch, with the outer shell overlapping the knitted waistband, with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 LSq-2(b) 10-12

17. Attach waistband and corded beading.

a. Sew one (1) side of the waistband to the bottom of the outer shell with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Fold the front edge of waistband to the inside at the pattern marks.

Insert the cord in the fold and stitch close to the cord with a single row of stitching. The beaded edges shall be flush with each other when attached to the closed slide fastener.

301 EFa-1 10-12

c. Attach the opposite edge of the waistband to the bottom of the lining with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

Seam and stitching type

Stitches per inch

17. Attach waistband and corded beading – Continued.

d. With the jacket turned inside out, join the outer shell, the lining, and the waistband (between the extension pieces) with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

18. Attach wristlets.

Sew each pre-folded, knitted wristlet to the bottom of the lining and outer shell sleeve terminal with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

19. Join slide fastener to the right front.

Position the right slide fastener tape, with the slider attached, on the right front lining, 1/4 inch from the scoops, with the seam allowance turned under with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from folded edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

20. Join assembled slide fastener to the left front.

a. Position the right slide fastener tape, with the slider attached, on the left front lining, 1/4 inch from the scoops, with the seam allowance turned under with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from folded edge.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Join the slide fastener to the left front lining to the left front, with the front beaded edge even with the scoops, with a single row of stitching through all plies 1/2 inch from the beaded edge.

301 LSq-2(a) 10-12

NOTE: The slide fastener shall be positioned 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the bottom of the collar.

21. Attach hanger.

Position the hanger on the back panel of the lining, centered 1 inch down from the neck opening raw edge, and join with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the edge, forming a 3/8 inch-by-3/8-inch box and “X” stitch or 1/2 inch long bartack.

brtck

LSbj-1 10-12

28 per brtck

22. Attach jacket label.

Position the top of the combination identification, size, and care instruction label directly below the hanger and sew (on all four [4] sides) to the lining, with a single row of stitching, 1/16 inch from the edge.

301 LSbj-1 10-12

23. Turn jacket.

a. Raise stitch around each wristlet on the outer shell with a single row of stitching 1/4 inch from the fold.

301 SSq-2(a) 10-12

b. Join the outer shell to the lining at the front opening. Position the beaded edge on the slide fastener, with the beaded edges butting when the slide fastener is closed and join with a single row of stitching 1/2 inch from the beaded edge. The fronts shall be even (1/4 inch tolerance) at top and bottom with slide fastener fully engaged.

301 SSa-1 10-12

No. Description of Operation Stitch Type

Seam and Stitching

Type

Stitches per Inch

23. Turn jacket – Continued.

c. Join the outer shell to the lining at the neck opening with a single row of stitching 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

24. Attach collar.

a. Join the undercollar to the neck opening with a single row of stitching 3/8 inch from the edge.

301 SSa-1 10-12

b. Turn the raw edge of the top collar under 3/8 inch and join with a single row of stitching 1/16 inch from the folded edge.

301 LSd-1 10-12

25. Raise stitch above knitted waistband.

Raise stitch across the bottom of the jacket, 1/4 inch above the knitted waistband, between waistband extension, with a single row of stitching.

301 SSq-2(a) (shows finished seam)

10-12

26. Make pull tab.

a. Fabricate the pull tab for the slide fastener for the front opening so the finished pull tab shall be 1/2 inch wide by 3 inches long. Stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge.

301 EFp-2 10-12

b. Pull the tab through the hole in top of the slider’s pull tab so the ends of the tab shall be even. Bartack at the bottom, center, and end of the tab, across the 1/2 inch width.

brtck SSc-1 28 per brtck

27. Clean jacket.

a. Trim all thread ends. Remove all loose thread ends.

b. Remove all spots, stains, and shade tickets without damage to the material.

3.11 Finished measurements. The finished measurements for the jacket shall conform to Table VII.

TABLE VII. Finished measurements (inches).

Size Back Length

(A) 1/2 Chest

(B) Sleeve Inseam

(C)

SMALL 21-3/4 22-1/2 20-3/4

MEDIUM 22-1/4 24-1/2 21

LARGE 22-3/4 26-1/2 21-1/4

X-LARGE 23-1/4 28-1/2 21-1/2

XX-LARGE 23-3/4 30-1/2 21-3/4

TOLERANCE + 3/8, -5/8 ±1/2 ±3/8

3.11.1 Methods of measurement. The jacket shall be zipped, laid smooth and flat, and measured as follows:

(A) 1/2 Back Length Measure down the center of the back starting from the bottom of the undercollar seam to the top of the knit waistband seam.

(B) 1/2 Chest Measure across at the base of the armhole, from folded edge to folded edge.

(C) Sleeve Inseam Measure along the underarm seam, from the armhole to the seam above the knit cuff.

3.12 Workmanship. The finished jacket shall conform to or exceed the quality of product established by this specification. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels.

4. VERIFICATION

4.1 Classification of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows:

a. First article/pilot lot inspection (see 4.2).

b. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.3).

c. Component and material inspection (see 4.4).

d. End item dimensional inspection exam (see 4.6).

4.2 First article/pilot lot inspection. The first article and/or pilot lot sample(s) shall be submitted in accordance with 3.1.1. The sample size shall be as specified in the procurement document and shall be inspected for compliance with design, configuration, workmanship, and dimensional requirements. The presence of excessive defects, as defined by the contract, or failure to pass any test, shall be cause for rejection of the first article.

4.3 Quality conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall consist of all examinations and tests specified in this specification. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for conformance inspection shall be in accordance with the provisions of ASQ/ANSI Z1.4. The inspection and the Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL) shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.4 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.2 and 4.3, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents (see 2.1) unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document.

4.4.1 Component testing. In addition to any testing required, components listed in Table VIII shall be tested for the characteristics noted. The methods of testing specified in Table VIII shall be followed.

The lot and sample sizes shall be as follows:

Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2

801 to 22,000 inclusive 3 22,001 or more 5

The lot shall be unacceptable if one (1) or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. The lot size units and sample units shall be as follows:

Component Lot size unit Sample unit

Interlining Yard 2

Thread Spool 3 each

TABLE VIII. Component tests.

Component Characteristic Requirement Test method

Interlining Steam heat shrinkage (%) 3.6.1 1/

Thread Colorfastness to drycleaning 3.6.2 AATCC TM132, 2/, 3/, 4/

1/ A specimen of 22 inches x 22 inches shall be hot pressed at 325 degree Fahrenheit (±4.0 degree Fahrenheit) for 25 seconds, vacuumed for 5 seconds, and cooled for 30 minutes.

Measurement from each of three (3) specimens shall be taken from the mark size of 18 inches x 18 inches. Average of three (3) measurements shall be used for pass or fail.

2/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.

3/ Evaluate using AATCC EP 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.

4/ A certificate of compliance is acceptable for this requirement.

5/ As an alternative, an environment-friendly cleaning agent other than perchloroethylene is allowed.

4.5 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to determine whether construction details that cannot be examined in the finished product are in accordance with specified requirements. This inspection shall include verification that the working patterns conform to the Government patterns in all respects.

Whenever any nonconformance is noted, corrections shall be made to the affected items and lot in-process. Items that cannot be corrected shall be removed from production.

4.6 End item dimensional inspection. The jacket shall be examined for conformance to the dimension specified in Table VII. Any dimension not within the specified tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The lot size shall be expressed in units of jackets. The inspection and AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order.

4.6.1 End item testing. The appearance rating of the seams and stitching of the finished jacket shall be examined in accordance with AATCC TM143 after one (1) drycleaning, specified in AATCC TM158 and shall have a rating of 4 or greater when evaluated against AATCC Photographic Seam Smoothness Replicas. This requirement shall be applicable to all seams.

Testing shall be as specified in Table IX.

TABLE IX. Seam appearance.

Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test method

Seam appearance (after 1 drycleaning)

3.9.6; 4.6.1 AATCC TM143, AATCC TM158 1/

1/ As an alternative, an environment-friendly cleaning agent other than perchloroethylene is allowed.

4.6.2 End item visual examination. The end item shall be examined for the defects listed in Table X in accordance with ASQ/ANSI Z1.4.

4.6.2.1 Shade matching. The shade of the finished jacket shall match the shade of the standard sample and shall be in accordance with AATCC EP 9, Option A, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles.

TABLE X. Classification of defects.

Defect Major Minor

1. Bartacks

a. One (1) bartack missing, insecure, or misplaced; not serving intended purpose

b. Two (2) bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced; not serving intended purpose

c. Three (3) or more bartacks missing, insecure, or misplaced; not serving intended purpose

d. Any bartack less than specified length or width not affecting function 203

2. Cleanness

a. Indelible ink shade stamping exposed on outside or spots or stains of permanent nature

b. Removable spot or stain clearly noticeable 204

c. Thread ends not trimmed or one (1) or more shade tickets not removed 205

3. Component and assembly

a. Any component defective 103

b. Any component missing 104

c. Any required operation omitted or improperly performed 105

4. Cutting

a. Any component not cut in accordance with directional lines on patterns or specified requirements

5. Material defects and workmanship damages

a. Any weakening material defects such as hole, smash, multiple floats, or slubs, which might develop into hole (except lining and knitted fabric)

b. Slubs greater than AATCC Fabric Defect Scales (old Sears Scale) Level C

c. Large drill hole, cut, tear, mend, or needle chew that may develop into hole

d. Ruptured fibers in line of sewing (usually caused by broken, blunt, or hooked needles) affecting appearance or serviceability (except lining)

TABLE X. Classification of defects – Continued.

5. Material defects and workmanship damages – Continued.

e. Any mend, darn, or patch on outside 110

f. Mend, darn, or patch on inside more than 1/2 inch in any dimension 207

g. Basic fabric containing two (2) or more contiguous missing or broken picks or ends or two (2) contiguous stripbacks

h. Knitted material containing any broken yarn, dropped stitch, run, or abrasion mark resulting in a weakened area

i. Basic fabric containing one (1) missing or broken pick or end 208

j. Lining containing any hole, scissor or knife cut, tear, burn, or needle chew that may develop into a hole

k. Lining containing any weakening defect such as smash, multiple float, or loose slub that may develop into a hole

l. Lining containing darn or mend 210

m. Lining containing exposed drill hole 211

6. Seams and stitchings

a. Seam twisted, pleated or badly puckered 1/ 212

b. Part of jacket caught in any unrelated operation or stitching 114

c. Thread breaks or end(s) of stitching, if not caught in other seams or stitchings, not securely backstitched or tacked as specified

d. Gauge of edge, top, or raise stitching irregular, that is, unevenly gauged or corresponding stitchings not uniformly gauged, affecting appearance

e. Gauge of edge, top, or raise stitching not within range of gauge specified or varies more than 1/16 inch if no range is specified

f. Open seam over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch on joining seam 2/ 216

g. Open seam over 1/2 inch 2/ 115

h. Open seam over 1/4 inch up to 1/2 inch 2/ 217

i. Open seam over 1/4 inch on joining seam 2/ 218

j. Stitches skipped or broken over 1/4 inch but not over 1/2 inch on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, and stitched 2/

k. Stitches skipped or broken over 1/2 inch on edge, top, or raise stitching when seam is seamed, turned, or stitched 2/

l. Raw edges on outside over 1/8 inch but not over 1/4 inch 3/ 221

m. Raw edges on outside over 1/4 inch 3/ 222

n. Raw edges on inside over 1/2 inch but not over 1 inch 3/ 223

o. Raw edges on inside over 1 inch 3/ 224

p. Run-offs on joining seams, if resulting in open seam 2/ 116

q. Run-offs on edge, top, or raise stitching, if not resulting in open seam

(outside only), over 1/2 inch but not over 1 inch

r. Run-offs on edge, top, or raise stitching, if not resulting in open seam (outside only), over 1 inch

s. Stitch or seam type not as specified 227

t. Loose stitch tension, resulting in loose seam 117

6. Seams and stitchings – Continued.

u. Loose stitch tension on edge, top or raise stitching, recognized by loose exposed loops of top or lower thread

v. Tight tension 2/ 229

w. One (1) or two (2) stitches per inch less than minimum specified 4/ 230

x. Three (3) stitches per inch less than the minimum specified 4/ 231

y. Four (4) or more stitches per inch less than minimum specified 4/ 118

z. One (1) or more stitches per inch more than maximum specified 4/ 232

7. Shaded parts

a. Outside parts (visible when jacket is worn) shaded 119

b. Lining and inside parts (not visible when jacket is worn) badly shaded 233

c. Thread(s) used on outside not same shade or not satisfactorily matching shade of jacket

8. Slide fasteners

a. Slide fastener not specified type, size, or style or any part of assembly omitted, bent, or broken

b. Any portion of jacket or slide fastener tape puckered, twisted, or pleated at slide fastener tape joining seam when slide fastener is opened or closed

c. Interference with movement of any slide fastener 121

d. Any slide fastener, except slide fastener for front opening, not entirely covered by flap

e. Any slide fastener not closed in specified direction 236

f. Thong not attached to slider for front opening as specified 237

9. Slide fastener covering

a. Edges of slide fastener covering overlapping more than 1/16 inch or gaping more than 1/16 inch when slide fastener is closed

b. Cord beading omitted in slide fastener covering 123

c. Cord beading not sewn taut in slide fastener covering 239

10. Fronts

a. Front pockets 1/2 inch or more out of alignment with each other 240

b. Converging points of diagonal stitching of inner fly spaced less than

2-1/2 inches or more and 3-1/2 inches apart at points (if applicable)

c. Front sagging, twisted, or bulging across chest or caused by tightness of lining

d. Back overlapping front at side 243

e. Pile fastener tape on top of flap more than 1/4 inch out of alignment with hook fastener tape on pocket

f. Hook fastener tapes reverse, that is, pile portion on front and hook portion on underside of flap

g. Fronts uneven at top or bottom (with slide fastener fully engaged) by more than 1/4 inch

11. Waistband

a. Waistband not specified width or length 246

11. Waistband – Continued.

b. Waistband twisted in attachment to bottom of jacket, affecting appearance

12. Sleeves

a. Sleeves sagging, twisted, bulging, or short, causing shortness, tightness, or incorrect positioning of lining

b. Back part of sleeve overlapping forepart of sleeves at inseams 248

c. Back part of sleeve overlapping forepart of sleeves at elbow seam 249

d. Sleeve overlapping body parts at joining seam 126

e. Alignment of sleeve seams staggered more than 3/8 inch 250

f. Wristlets not specified color 127

g. Wristlets twisted in attachment to sleeve bottom, affecting appearance 251

h. Pencil/utility pocket less than 5-1/2 inches, or more than 6 inches long 252

i. Pencil/utility pocket (including slide fastener tape) less than 3-3/4 inches, or more than 4-1/4 inches wide

j. Pencil and utility pocket set on crookedly, affecting appearance 254

k. Hem of opening of pencil/utility pocket stitched with only one (1) row of stitching

l. Pencil compartment piece not double-stitched along front and back edges

m. Slide fastener not on forward side of finished pencil and utility pocket 128

n. Ends of slide fastener tapes of pencil/utility pocket not turned under 129

o. Front and top edges of pencil/utility pocket and tape not double stitched to sleeve

p. Slide fastener stitched to pencil/utility pocket with slider closing downward

13. Hanger

a. End(s) of hanger not securely stitched as specified 259

b. Finished hanger less than 3-1/4 inches long, or more than 3-3/4 inches long

c. Hanger less than 3/8 inch, or more that 5/8 inch wide 261

d. Hanger 1 inch or more off center with center of back 262

e. Hanger stitched and bartacked through outer shell 263

14. Fastener tape

a. Hook fastener tape more than 1/4 inch out of alignment with pile fastener tape

b. Fastener tape (except wearer’s nameplate) not specified size 265

c. Fastener tape (except wearer’s nameplate) misplaced not serving intended purpose

d. Hooks or pile flattened or missing from any fastener tape area up to 25 percent

e. Hooks or pile flattened or…